The sheets of GKL and GVL are truly a versatile material, with which you can align the surface, install the suspended ceiling, build a partition, to build a closet or arch - you only need to master all the subtleties of working with this material. It is very important to make installation without errors, but also the finish putty of plasterboard should also be performed correctly.
Violation of technology can not be reduced to all work, especially when the interior is painted. Therefore, before taking the case, see the video in this article.

Preparation of the surface, covered with plasterboard, is made in accordance with the selected option. If it is planned by wallpaper, the plasterboard attack may look like this is shown on the photo from above - that is, only the joints between the sheets are closed.
So:

  • In order to produce staining, this preparation is not enough. The surface of the walls or ceilings should be covered across the area - otherwise, the joints will be relocated to stand out. Do it yourself the first preparation option is much easier, and more economical finance.
  • Just need to keep in mind that it will be problematic to change the wallpaper in this case. If the entire surface of the walls was not covered before sticking, when removing a roll coating, the cardboard sheath of plasterboard will certainly damage - it will be squeezed together with wallpaper. So, if you do not want to put it right away, you will have to do it later, and even at all, you have to change the trim.

Putcloth for plasterboard

For spatleing of the surface, covered with sheets of HCL, use mixtures on a plaster basis, intended for interiors. Components in such compositions have the smallest dispersion, are able to fill even the smallest pores, and allow you to get the most smooth surface.
So:

  • On sale there are ready-to-eat shtlings that are sold in plastic banks and vendors - open the container, and you work. With large volumes of work, it is much easier to use a dry composition, and mix small portions of the solution directly in place. The amount of liquid on 1 kg of the mixture regulates the manufacturer's instruction.

  • The removal of the plackenet on 1m2 drywall does not depend on what option you used: ready or dry. Simply, the cost of the finished product is always higher than the semi-finished product, and when finishing large areas, the difference may be essential. Buying material, ask: how much is the one and the other option.
  • And also, pay attention to the universal mixtures. There are polymer resins and other additives that improve their properties.
    Such supels are super elastic, and can be used both for facade and interior work. They are applied almost on any basis - precisely in this and their advantage is their advantage.

  • On the bag with such a mixture, it will be defined: "Universal Shtel". And let you not be confused by a slightly higher price: 225 rubles. Bag weighing 10 kg - against 180 rubles. For the same packaging of ordinary plaster plaster.
    The difference is fully compensated by the efficiency of this material. For example, if the consumption of plasterboard plasterboard, on 1m2 when the joints are seeding 300g, then for a universal mixture, this figure does not exceed 250g.
  • In addition, the universal putty has a higher strength, which makes it possible to use these compositions as glue, when installing the GLC, a frameless way. It is well suited for sealing damaged sheets. This when installing happens quite often, and here you are in confirmation of these words a suitable picture.

Selecting the finishing plaster for GLCs, you need to think about how to process plasterboard before the shplotovka. Best of all, if the plated composition, and the soil (see), will be one manufacturer.
Identical components in their compositions guarantee their compatibility and high-quality adhesion. In any case, on containers with primer, it should be indicated that it is designed for gypsum surfaces.

Preparation of GLC to finishing

After the installation of plasterboard is completed, its surface must be cleaned of dust, but without moisture. After that, the entire surface, with roller, brushes, or sprayer, should be primed.
At the same time, special attention should be paid to the joints, and the places of fastening sheets:

  • While the primer dries, prepare the solution, unless, of course, you did not prefer the finished option. To avoid falling into a mixture of lumps, which happens quite often, the dry component is desirable to sift through the sieve. It is falling asleep in plastic or enameled container with cold and clean water.

  • The ratio of ingredients may vary, but approximately 2 liters of water by 2.5 kg of the mixture. After the frighting of the dry component, you need to wait a few minutes so that it moistened, after which you can start stirring in the cell, and even better - a mixer.
  • Tools and mortar containers must be clean, and otherwise, the mixture hardens faster than it is supposed. The consistency of the solution should be such that the putty on the plasterboard is flashed as soft oil on bread. It is very important not to enter into a solution of any additives not provided for by the manufacturer's instructions.

It is also not worth trying to reanimate the solidifying solution by adding water to it - it will not give anything. Just try to knead such a portion that you can work out in 30 minutes. After this time, almost all putty are beginning to be captured.

Shakes between sheets

When performing work related to the execution of various screeds, the air temperature in the room should be at least ten degrees with a plus. If finishing works are conducted in winter, in just a rebuilt house, the room in which you will put the walls and ceilings, you need to isolate from drafts.
And you can provide the necessary temperature using a heater:

  • Even if the putty will be made throughout the area, you need to start with the sealing of the joints. To do this, you will need a serpent tape and two types of spatulas. One tool take the steel, 150 mm width. The second spatula must be wide, rubber - without it it is difficult to produce inner corners.

  • As for external angles, it is necessary to use a perforated plastering corner for their formation. In addition, it will turn out an angle with a clear geometry, it will still be reliably protected from damage.
    Such a corner may be needed with plasterboard plasterboard, multi-level ceilings, and other volume structures.
  • Thanks to the beveled edges, grooves are formed between the sheets of drywall, the walls of which are expanding up - here they have to be treated. But before, you need to check the quality of the fastening of sheets. Self-tapping heads must be flush with the surface of GLC.

  • Drinking outwards Self care must be carefully cheated. If the fastener is overly recessed into the thickness of the sheet, it should be turned off, and, retreating several centimeters, produce a new mount. This is important, since in the presence of specified installation defects, it will be impossible to make a joint.
  • Their embelling has such a sequence: first the seam is filled only to half, after which, without waiting for the capture of the putty, it is sick of the reinforcing ribbon. Serpenta can be paper, or fiberglass - it is simply pressed into an unrexious mixture with a spatula.

The tape in the sticker needs to be thoroughly smoothed to prevent the formation of swollen and folds. After that, the shp can give time for hardening, and only after that you can start applying the upper alignment layer.
It is designed to compose the surface of the joint with the surface of the plasterboard. After drying, it will only be allowed to stick with small grid or sandpaper.

Puttailing across the area

If the surface, covered with plasterboard is prepared under painting, limit ourselves to only the sealing of the joints will not work - we need to splash throughout the area.
For this, it is convenient to use a rubber spatula, which was mentioned above:

  • It is possible to start performing a solid screed after the joints are punctured by the sickle, and the solution in them hardened. That is, the leveling layer on the joints is applied simultaneously with the plasterboard shlasaw. By the way, it also puts off in two stages: first the base layer, then the corner.

  • When preparing a drywall under high-quality painting, the number of plates of the putty can be more, since two layers of the screed do not always manage to disguise all errors. On the painted surface, they are immediately detected, especially if the paint is glossy.
  • But only you need to keep in mind that the finished layer must completely dry before the new one will be applied. The thickness of one layer should not exceed 1 mm. Describe the work process itself, the spatula does not make sense, it is much easier to watch the video once, and it is a little practiced on an unnecessary piece of plasterboard.
  • The priming between the layers of the screed can not be done, since the same composition is used to apply them with the same dispersion. But after solidification of the finish layer, the processing of the soil is obligatory. Before performing it, you need to stick the entire covered surface, and remove the dust with the help of a vacuum cleaner.

As soon as the soil is dry, you can start painting. And if all the work is made without errors, and materials used only high-quality, interior decoration with plasterboard structures, can not please you.