How to care for thuja in the garden so that it is lush and green?
If you want to admire the beautiful green plants on the plot, then you need to know how to care for the thuja so that it does not turn yellow or black.
It happens that the thuja loses its color, pomp and beauty after winter or planting, and many beginning gardeners do not know how to restore their health to the poultry. To avoid mistakes and learn how to properly maintain thuja in the garden plot, it is necessary to remember and apply the rules of agrotechnology in the cultivation of coniferous plants.
Depending on when the thuja was planted, further care will be taken. The right planting and the chosen place for the hilt will be the starting points of the next steps, these two important factors have a huge impact on the condition of the plants in the future.
For thujas, planted in spring and summer, first of all, careful watering is required once every seven days, on the condition of warm, but not hot days. If the weather is sunny, the air is hot, increase the watering to two times a week.
The volume of water applied under the shrub should be at least one bucket in normal conditions, in extreme - two. A larger amount of fluid will be needed by an adult and a large plant, and in cases where the transplant was performed.
The first month of thuja growth is accompanied by obligatory sprinkling, at which pores open and the plant begins to breathe, a delicate coniferous smell can be felt. Scaly needles thuy actively evaporates moisture, so they constantly need to be fed with water.
Spray thuya once a week, on sunny hot days, sprinkling is required every day. The best time for plant irrigation is the evening after sunset, but it is possible in the morning if the thuja is not in the sun for a couple of hours.
Tui after planting in the fall require irrigation and sprinkling in the same volumes as spring seedlings. Young plants need to gain enough moisture to winter well, if autumn is rainy and prolonged, watering should stop or reduce the amount. An excess of moisture for a period of more than two weeks can lead to thuja disease.
Fertilizer after planting is not necessary, the appropriate dressing should have been made at planting. If for any reason fertilizers have not been applied, and the soil in the plot is poor in trace elements, then it is better to feed the plant, but this can be done only in spring and summer.
When fertilizers are applied in autumn, sprouts and twigs will start to develop at the thuja, which will not have time to form by the winter, may die with strong frosts.
After planting, the Tui is best fed with a solution of Zircon, the drug stimulates root formation, improves the absorption of water and nutrients by the plant. The fungicidal and antiviral properties of Zircon will protect the ephedra from diseases and viruses in the initial stages of development.
Thuja care at different times of the year
Thuja care begins after winter, lasts all spring and summer, ends in late autumn. According to many gardeners, the plant is unpretentious and can grow with minimal attention, but during the cultivation process a number of significant problems arise: thuja after winter is dry, blackened, turned yellow after transplanting, how to water, what to feed and what to do? All these questions have answers, consider the most common and most important.
When to open thuja after winter?
Do not remove the shelter from the plants immediately with the advent of the first rays of the sun, especially for young seedlings growing for the first year. Make sure that the ground around the thuja is thawed and warmed slightly, then remove the covering material. Opening earlier, there is a risk of yellowing of the thuja, as the warm sun will cause the growth of twigs and shoots, the root system of the conifer in the frozen soil will be at rest, and the water metabolism will be disturbed.
What to do if thuja turned yellow after winter?
Before taking action, you need to find the cause of the yellowing of green branches and shoots, there may be several:
Spring burning of conifers. A rather common phenomenon, in order to avoid this, plants prune as early as February, and not in April, when the snow melts. Do not use thick fabrics and fabrics to cover the thuja, gauze and mosquito net is fine.
Spunbond is not suitable, because it transmits ultraviolet rays, which are most dangerous for Tui spring. No need to coniferous plants "muffle in a fur coat", the greenhouse effect inside only worsens the condition of green handsome. If the moment is missed in early spring, water the saplings with warm water and spray the plants with the Ecogel - Antistress biostimulator to accelerate growth. With the beginning of summer, you will need to cut the burnt twigs;
yellowed thuja on the photo
Rooting of the roots occurs when water stagnates at the site or nearby groundwater. Excess moisture in the soil can be a source of not only yellow needles, but also mold on the thuja. If the plants were in the water for a short time, remove the bad branches with a secateur, gently shake the ground around the trunk, not too deep, trying not to touch the root system.
Treat with any antifungal agent, sprinkle crown and branches with Zircon or Epin to stimulate growth. In case of close groundwater flow, the thuja needs to be transplanted to another place, as over time, the roots will grow even more, the plant will die from an excess of moisture;
If the thuja is blackened after winter, most likely a fungal infection has risen. Cut all the bad branches and treat with Hom, and if the fungus reappears, process it again. Pristvolnye circles of thuja can be watered with a solution of Fundazole or another fungicide. A plant can turn black if it is tagged by pets, fence the plant and treat it with any fungicide.
In spring and summer, as in the fall, thuja are watered as well as after planting, taking into account weather conditions and observing the time frame. Top dressing of a thuy begins in early spring, ends in the second half of August, so as not to cause the growth of shoots for winter.
In the first year of life, plants are not fed, then fertilizers are applied as needed. Use complex fertilizers for tui, such as Osmokot (10-15 grams per bush) or Kemira-Universal (100 grams per 1 m² of planting).
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Thuja is a tree from a sort of coniferous plants, and this means that it belongs to the list of evergreens. That is why thuja can be observed “in all its glory” both in summer and in winter.
However, sometimes its natural greenery is disturbed, and today we will understand why the thuja turns yellow in the fall and what to do in such a situation.
Why does thuja have yellow needles in autumn
One of the answers to the question of why the thuja smaragd turns yellow in the fall is the end of the life of the coniferous leaves of the tree. The fact is that the leaves of these evergreen trees have their specific “shelf life”, or their own lifespan, if you please. Of course, the life of conifers is not short, and sometimes reaches 6 years. However, on average, it varies between 3–6 years.
Of course, after the expiration of the life of the needles, the tree does not die, there is only a complete loss of chlorophyll grains, after which the coniferous leaves of the tree die, and they are, as a result, replaced by new, fresh and green. However, the process of replacing the leaves with new ones takes some time, so it will be possible to see the green tree again only at the end of winter.
Why does yellow thuja at the trunk fall
Another problem with yellowing of thuja can be associated with the appearance of yellowness directly at the trunk of the tree. If you notice a similar problem in the trees on your plot, it is almost guaranteed that stem rot can be the cause of its occurrence. Carefully check the tree trunks for rot, and if you find any, immediately proceed to eliminate it.
Why does yellow thuja smaragd inside fall
The last problem associated with the yellowing of the Tumi Smaragd, which we planned to consider today, is the yellowing of the tree inside. This trouble can also be familiar to many gardeners and people who have such coniferous shrubs on the private plot.
However, stem pests are often considered the cause of this trouble. The presence of all kinds of insects in the bark of a tree, such as, for example, beetle, is quite capable of causing the tree to begin to turn yellow from the inside.
Pests get to the trunk of a tree through holes in the bark, and then begin to spoil it. To eliminate such a nuisance, it is necessary to treat the trunk using Karbofos, as well as use other antiseptic agents for trees.
Tui look very impressive in landscape design, but they need to provide competent care. Very often gardeners face a problem, they ask a question: thuja has turned yellow after winter, what to do? Let's see what could be the reasons for the yellowing of the crown of the thuja, and how you can cope with this scourge.
Sometimes the thuja becomes yellow inside. If you push the branches of pine needles, you can see this yellowing. We can say that this is the norm, because the needles change every season. Old branches, which are located inside the crown, are aging. Do not touch the dried twigs before winter, and in the spring you must manually clear the thuja from such branches. It is better not to use the tool, otherwise you can damage the plant. And any microtrauma will lead to infection.
In autumn, some types of thuja can change the color of the crown of the plant to yellow-green, and sometimes to brown-green. Therefore, if your thuja has changed color, do not panic right away. Perhaps thuja foliage or western thuja grows in your garden. In spring, when the snow melts, the soil will thaw, and in the trunk and branches of the tree sap flow will begin, the needles will again turn green. Many conifers prefer to change color, this is a kind of protective reaction of trees from the spring sun. For needles, spring burns can be devastating.
Severe frost can lead to yellowing of the needles. If the winter is not snowy and the frosts reach 30 degrees, cracks form on the trunks, on this side the needles turn yellow. It is difficult to insure against this. In regions with harsh winters, it is best to harbor thuja every year, and not only in the first year.
Other causes of yellowing of the crown
Thuja needles may turn yellow for the following reasons:
- Over or under fertilizer.
- Sunburn in the spring. Young thuja is very sensitive to the sun and changing weather.
- Much or little moisture in the soil. With a lot of moisture, the top of the thuja turns yellow.
- Diseases and pests. Yellowing can be caused by spurious shield, as well as fusarium disease.
Causes of thuja blackening after winter
After frost sometimes dark, almost black spots can be found on the thuja. There are two reasons for the problem:
- This may be due to infection with a fungus. If the spots are small and small, you can limit the processing of the fungicide. It is carried out twice, making a break in two weeks. The areas that the fungus had time to hit, must be removed. With the defeat of a large part of the thuja, the tree should be removed, otherwise it will infect the rest of the landing.
- If black spots are concentrated on the lower level of the tree, then pets that defecate on thuja are most likely to blame. If large parts of the tree are affected, the thuja will die; it must be removed.
How to return tue green look
After finding out the reasons for the yellowing of the needles in the thuja, the plant should be resuscitated.
Improper fit
Why does thuja turn yellow after planting? Novice gardeners often make mistakes when planting thuja seedlings. It is necessary not to deeply deepen the seedling, the root neck should remain at the level of the soil. When planting, it must be remembered that after several rains, the soil will settle, and the tree will sink a little more.
If the thuja suddenly began to turn yellow, you need to check how the landing site is selected correctly. Perhaps thuja grows in a damp place, or it is too dry. Drying, as well as excessive moisture, can destroy the plant.
With a lack of moisture, it is necessary to immediately water the plant, in addition to spraying. In that case, if the sun constantly falls on thuja, it needs a little shade. After that, you need the right watering, it is recommended to spray with Epin-extra.
What to do if on a site of stagnation of water? You can dig drainage grooves to drain water from the landing pit. But this is possible if the slope of the plot allows it. If it is not possible to arrange drainage grooves, arrange raised beds, which are transplanted thuja.
Fertilizer shortage
- For proper development of thuja, it is necessary to observe the balance of micro and macro elements. Yellowness can cause a lack of manganese, copper, potassium or nitrogen. When detecting yellow areas on the needles, it is necessary to make an analysis of all the additional fertilizers in order to determine whether all the elements are sufficient in these fertilizers.
- The leaves become pale green, the shoots cease to grow, which means that the thuja lacks nitrogen. Violation of nitrogen metabolism can cause potassium deficiency. Ammonia accumulates in the crown, which causes yellowing and further death of the shoots.
- With a lack of copper and iron, the process of photosynthesis is disturbed, the needles of the thuja lose their green color.
- The leaves may turn yellow due to chlorosis caused by a lack of manganese.
Diseases and pests
Many pests can cause thuja shoots to turn yellow. Especially annoying plants tuevaya aphid and motley moths. When detecting the first signs of damage to thuja, it is necessary to apply insecticides.
Schutte and tracheomycous wilting sometimes lead to the death of trees. And it all begins with the yellowing of pine needles. Then it becomes gray and brown. It is necessary to destroy the plant, otherwise the spores of the fungus spread to other plants. The soil should be treated with a fungicide.
For the prevention of fungal diseases, it is necessary to spray a Bordeaux liquid in the spring. When signs of the disease are sprayed the whole garden with a frequency of 15-20 days.
Sunburn
If there is a spring burning, the needles turn brown. Beginning gardeners do not even immediately notice it. First, the tops of the shoots just dry out a bit. But in May, the seedlings become pronounced brown. It becomes clear that the thuja is burned. The spring sun is too bright, it begins to shine and heat when the roots of the thuja are still in frozen soil. The plant does not receive a sufficient amount of nutrient juices, as a result there is a burn.
Even shelter with spandbond and lutrasil cannot always help. Sometimes this kind of shelter only hurts, because of the lack of air, shoots start to sting up. As a preventive measure, should be thoroughly shed thuja in the fall. In the spring it is recommended to water the plant with slightly warm water, not above 40 ° C, this will help to wake up the roots of the plant.
If your thuja turns yellow and dries, then you do not need to immediately panic. In this case, it is very important to act patiently. The same thing often happens with juniper. In order to bring both of these plants back to normal, it is necessary, as they say, to "tinker" a little. Quickly restore them will not work. Be prepared that for this you need a whole year, and maybe all two. The term is long enough, but in order to reduce it, you need to start practicing thuja as quickly as possible. Do not waste time, but immediately begin to improve your dried thuja.
Thuja turns yellow and dries. What you need to do to help her?
First of all, it will be necessary to remove all the dry and already seriously reddened pine needles. This can be done easily with a pruner. If you do not help the plant to remove this needles, then do not expect that it will fall off itself. So, the plant you can never be cleared. Here you need to safely cut thuyu. It is possible that in the end the tree after pruning will look awful, as it will lose almost half of its needles. But this should not be afraid. You will also need to cut the growth point, and besides, also shorten the top of the plant, about 10-15 centimeters.
Post-processing and dressing of thuja
At the next stage of plant recovery, you will need to purchase sour peat. The level of its pH should be 3-4 units. Such peat is filled with a good, thick layer under the already cut plant. Peat can be simply poured, or mixed with the soil, with its top layer.
Together with peat they also add fertilizer, which will help the tue recover faster. This drug is "Buya coniferous", the consumption rate of which per plant should be 20 grams.
In the spring, do not forget to spray the needles of thuja. To do this, they throw "Epin", and after 10 days, after this procedure, they melt sprayed with "Zircon". When another 10 days pass, then mullein is used. Half a cup of this organic fertilizer is diluted in 5 liters of water. If you do all this in time, then your thuja will partially recover towards the end of summer. Her needles will begin to turn green again, and the plant itself will again grow actively.
Peculiarities of care for thuja so that it does not dry
Almost all coniferous crops that grow in the southern regions, in the spring should definitely be further protected from the sun. Otherwise, sunburn they can not be avoided. In addition, for Tui need to use the land from under the coniferous crops. There is no particular need to go to the forest to collect such land. You can just nagresti such land from neighboring trees - take a little land from one, another part from another. If needles are present in such a land, for thuja, it will be even better.
Plants that belong to conifers, called the mikorizniki. This term refers to those cultures that are in fairly close symbiosis with many fungi, bacteria, as well as microscopic organisms. Therefore, a handful of coniferous land is needed thuya. She can even quite a bit to powder her circle.
In the future, be sure to follow your thuja. And so that she always looks fresh, be sure to carry out preventive spraying of the whole plant. Use for this solution "Epin" or "Zircon". Spraying should be done abundantly so that droplets hang down on the needles. And you need to do this once a month.
Together with the tui trimming services, tui trimming and scheduled annual maintenance, we at Garden Academy Moscow treat pests for thujas. For example, if your thujis turn yellow outside or inside, turn brown, become covered with blackness or have manifestations of other diseases of tui or pests of tui, or if you made a decision to protect yourself in advance against manifestations of diseases in tui by defensive processing of tui, call us. Our experts will find out the causes of diseases, make a treatment plan and solve this problem. Usually required from one, two three treatments at intervals of 7 days.
Why thuja yellow and what to do?
There are many causes of yellowing needles in thuja. This can be caused by various fungal infections, as well as other reasons that are completely unrelated to diseases. For example, in winter, a cold burn may occur, and in the spring suns.
About pests of thuja and other causes of yellowing of thuy will be discussed in this article. We will look at how to prevent yellowing of thuja needles and how to deal with pests.
Why the needles of a thuja turn yellow. Than sick thuja About thuja pests.
Thuja yellowing is not associated with diseases and pests. It should be remembered that for the winter in thuja in the needles it is produced in a special protective pigment of red color, which changes the color of the plant from slightly brownish to intensely brown, and even pinkish-bronze (depending on the type and variety of the thuja).
Yellowing of the tops of the thuja indicates that it does not receive sufficient nutrients due to damage to the root system. This may be due to two reasons. The first reason is a surplus of moisture in the level of the root system. This happens in conditions of stagnant water or high groundwater levels. The second reason is the defeat of the roots of fungal diseases (read on page: Tui diseases).
Observation experience shows that most of the thujis turn yellow due to an excess of moisture in the soil. For example, it is dangerous to plant thuja in low places where water often accumulates there after melting snow or heavy rainfall. If you know in advance about the inclination of the soil to the marsh and the stagnation of moisture, you need to either immediately choose another place for planting, or in advance to make good drainage in such soil for the outflow of water. Under conditions of overreaction, the needles of the thuja turn yellow, as the roots diminish and rot. The process of decay extends to the base of the skeletal branches and the plant inevitably perishes.
If the thuja began to turn yellow in the conditions of waterlogging, it is better to transplant it immediately to another place. According to the testimony of one of the specialists, the Thuja Smaragd is able to withstand the spring stasis of moisture in a water layer of about 10 cm during the week. However, the surviving plants still suffer further and are characterized by slow growth. Fungal soil infection, which causes fusarium or root rot, often additionally joins the root clogging. From preventive measures on stagnant soils, the site’s drainage is applied or the correct site is selected for planting. Diseased plants are transplanted, treated with Bordeaux mixture or special preparations of similar action. In professional nurseries, a spraying of a 0.2% solution of foundationol is used against root rot.
The next reason for the yellowing of the needles is to expel it. We speak of the needing of needles in cases where the thuja needles turn yellow and die due to poor air permeability and lack of light at the points of contact between growing plants with each other or with a massive fence (solid wall or fence). In some cases, the needling of the needles is also associated with the too late removal of the winter shelter. When harboring lutrasil, thuja will also scream. The needles in such places turn yellow, dry and easily crumble. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to plant the plants on time, to observe the correct interval in advance when they are planted, to monitor the condition of the sheltered plants as the spring warms.
Do not put thuja too close to cast supports, walls or fences that do not have free spaces and thus create a solid shadow and drafts. The crowns of plants from the side of such supports turn yellow from the effects of winter drafts and lack of light.
Often we are faced with the fact that the thuja is yellow inside, just around the trunk. Outside, the color of the shoots is normal. The yellowing of these areas is due to the lack of light to them, as well as the limited life cycle of the needles (she lives up to 3 - 5 years). Yellowing of a thuja inside, practically does not affect its appearance, since outside this defect is hidden by densely located healthy shoots. The yellowing process of thuja inside is natural and is not associated with any diseases.
Often we can observe that our thuja has turned yellow under the rays of the spring sun. Then we can talk about sunburn needles. Thuja burns are observed in early spring, with the beginning of the growing season, when the plant has already woken up and moved to growth, but the developing needles did not receive enough moisture due to the fact that the frost still held and the land did not have time to thaw. For the prevention of spring burns, it is recommended to shade sensitive species to them even in the fall, especially from the south, and also to do good watering before winter so that the needles absorb enough moisture. In addition to the above, it should be noted that different types of thuja are subject to sunburn to varying degrees. The most persistent in this respect is western thuja, and the least persistent is eastern thuja. If the burns have already appeared, it will not be superfluous to do shading before thawing the ground. It can also be watered with warm water and spray the needles in the absence of sunlight. Spraying with zircon gives a good effect.
Increasing the fertilizer dose recommended by the manufacturer leads to plant oversaturation with microelements and also causes yellowing of the needles in Tui, burning the roots. Do not overdo it with top dressing! Use only special fertilizers for hvoynik. When spring planting Tui,
An insufficient iron content in the soil also leads to yellowing, sometimes to whitening of the needles of thuja on various independent sprouts. Similarly, red - purple needles may signal a lack of phosphorus in the soil, and chlorotic needles and slow growth of the thuja indicate a lack of nitrogen in the soil.
Freezers and winter drafts can also cause damage to the branches of the thuja and yellowing of the needles. Freezers are bark cracks that occur on the branches or trunk during simultaneous exposure to frost and sun. Depending on the location and depth of the lesion, the needles of the thuja may turn yellow, and may remain green. Frost cracks are treated with 3% r-rum of copper sulphate, then plastered with wood balm, garden pitch. Winter drafts cause frostbite of plant parts, damaged branches turn yellow and die. Plants that grow near solid walls or fences are prone to winter drafts.
If your thuja grows along the road and in winter the tips of its needles have become yellow or brown, and, basically, it happened on the lower parts of the plant, then it is fitting to assume that it was influenced by special mixtures, which the road builders made during this period in order to eliminate the ice.
Mechanical damage to branches can be caused by the weight of snow or ice stuck on them, when the branches, which are bent down to the ground, not only deform the crown, but also break. Sometimes large trees lose entire branches. This happens after heavy rainfall in the form of sleet or freezing rain. The snow must be carefully shaken with a long wooden stick. Broken and broken branches of the thuja will turn yellow.
The next reason why the thuja needles turn yellow is a lack of moisture in the soil. In the long dry period, all the Tui need watering. Young and recently planted plants are particularly sensitive to drying out of the soil. At first, the thuja fades due to the loss of moisture, and then begins to turn yellow and dry (read below).
If tui yellowed after landing.
1. Insufficient watering. Thuja at any age loves medium - moist soil and at the same time does not tolerate excess water. Ideally, the soil for it should always be moderately moist. So thuja develops better and grows faster. However, according to experts, thuja need to be watered after transplantation, during a long drought and at a young age. This suggests that young and recently transplanted plants have a lower drought tolerance threshold. In fact, the way it is. By the way, successfully accustomed plants after spring planting, may not survive the dry summer and require more attention. It is enough to evaluate the state of soil moisture by touch and not allow it to dry out.
2. Violation of landing technology. With insufficient depth, the roots will suffer from drought and this can cause not only the yellowing of the thuja, but also the death of the plant. During the planting procedure, the plant needs abundant watering. Liberally poured not only the landing pit, but they shed containers on plants in plants. A clod of earth is also watered to a wet state, in which it will not fall apart. Some sources say that excessive deepening can lead to yellowing of the lower branches of the thuja, poor growth or fading of the plant, and even rotting of the roots. Such problems are not always, but you can correct the situation by freeing the root neck in a circle from the extra layer of earth.
3. Branch breaks during transportation. The damaged branches of the thuja will soon turn yellow and have to be removed. The thinned parts of the crown will eventually grow independently, but they can also be closed with neighboring branches, securing them with a wire in the right direction. To prevent such damage, the plants need to be positioned correctly in the vehicle. Also, the crown of a plant can be linked before transport, although for many varieties of thuja this is not mandatory and depends on a number of factors.
4. Too long waiting for landing after digging thuja from the ground. During such a pause, in the absence of watering, the roots can dry up. When the roots dry out, the result will not be long in coming: planted after a long, waterless pause, your thuja will partially or completely turn yellow. Perhaps the plant will not die, but it will be much more difficult to settle down. There is only one conclusion: the clod of land should not dry out before planting, therefore it requires watering and proper storage. If the branches are still alive, and only the needles have suffered, remove the yellowed needles with your hands. Such branches may eventually become covered with new shoots.
Thuja yellowed from pests.
Thuja pests. The activity of Tui pests greatly weakens the plants and often causes their death. Thuja pests are tule aphids, which are bred by ants, spider mites, gray larch moths, moths, spotted beetles, bark beetles, bark beetles, tuean spatulae, tuevogo bastard (stem pest).
Thuye aphid has a gray - brown color and is covered with a silver coating. On closer examination, this aphid on a thuja can be seen from the bottom of the shoots. Aphid is a insect sucking plant sap that lives in numerous colonies, so over time its activity causes yellowing and falling off of the needles.
It is possible to treat thuja from pests with the help of a soap solution. Treatment with this solution is repeated at least two to three times every 7 to 10 days. If apha is too numerous, insecticides should be used to control it. Be sure to destroy the anthills on the site, so the ants are occupied by aphids.
The larvae of the moths - gnaws gnaw through the tissue of the tips of the shoots of the thuja, making turns into them. Upon careful inspection, on the affected parts of the plant, you can see the entrance and exit holes, as well as tiny caterpillars. The butterfly itself is also very small (up to 4 mm), takes off at the end of May. The moth - spotty - is a miner moth; it lays its eggs in the apical shoots of the thuja, from which the larvae reappear in the spring. So the one-year pest life cycle is repeated anew. The needles of the thuja turn yellow and die.
If you find butterflies or larvae, you need to mechanically remove them and the damaged parts of the plants. Chemical insecticides are also used to fight insects. To prevent the pest from settling, in July a double treatment with special products containing pyrethroids should be carried out. The interval between treatments should be 8 days.
The gray larch spider is a small dark caterpillar. The affected shoots are characteristically covered with cobwebs. In some places the web links the needles into a cocoon, inside each cocoon there is a caterpillar. Caterpillars appear from eggs and in 3 - 4 weeks turn into pupae, and then into butterflies. The wingspan of a butterfly is 20–22 mm. The most frequently affected pine, spruce, larch. With a large number of insects, the plant may die.
For prevention, the plants are sprayed with insecticides in May - early June. If there were too many caterpillars, re-process in summer.
Beetles - clickers, but rather their larvae - root pests that are in the ground. By eating the roots, they cause a general weakness in the thuja, stall growth, then the thuja turns yellow and dies. In the people, the clicker larvae are called wireworms. Grown from larvae, the beetle - a nutcracker differs from others in the ability to roll from back to foot, making a characteristic sound when jumping. The larvae develop in the ground within 3 to 5 years, grow to 2.5 cm and, growing, begin to eat the thicker parts of the roots.
To destroy the larvae, the earth is watered with products containing diazinon. Acidification of the soil and its overmoistening contribute to the appearance of click beetle larvae, so these factors should be eliminated. It is useful to carry out preventive soil digging in the fall.
Spider mites are easy to differentiate from other pests by the presence of a thin spider cover, which over time delays a large area of the crown. Most often this pest is found on Canadian firs. In the fight against spider mites help insecticides.
Bark beetle is a very dangerous plant pest that affects not only thujas. The pests themselves and their larvae eat up the wood, gnawing through it many moves. Plants afflicted by bark beetles die within a month. The size of the bark beetle is 0.8 - 9 mm and it has a lot of varieties.
When tuevogo beetle appears, the plant should be treated with special insecticides. If there is little sense from them, it is better to destroy the plant by burning. This pest somehow looks like a bark beetle and makes small holes in the trunk. Sometimes in the bark you can see curved passages and small wooden chips are showered from the tree.
If your thuja was struck by a false guard, then when you look at the shoots of a plant, you will find round or dark or light brown growths on them, very similar to buds. These are adult pests and their larvae. Adults of the false guard spend the winter in the litter, and their larvae overwinter in the bark of the young shoots. The magnitude of the shielding is about 3 mm. Thuja dies not immediately, but always significantly weakens its growth, and its needles first look dull, lethargic, then turn yellow, dry.
How to treat and prevent. For the prevention of infection, in early spring, as soon as the earth thawed out, a special caterpillar glue is applied to the bases of the trunks, blocking the insects from moving upward. For the same purpose, it is possible to wrap sackcloth around the trunks, since it plays the role of a trap. If there are few insects, it is enough to clear off the shoots from them by any mechanical means. With extensive infection, produce the destruction of insects - pests insecticides. A good result is given by Aktara solution, which needs to be processed twice with an interval of 10 days. You can apply Actellic in the same way. The treatment should be repeated in the summer (in mid-July and in August) in order to prevent the new generation of larvae from developing. It is not necessary to list all the names of insecticides, because in any garden center you will be helped to choose the right one.
Now for the thuja, resuscitation is required to restore her health - these are mineral dressings, regular watering, and spraying and watering with growth regulators (good results are given by zircon, epin).
* The exact price is determined by the photo or video. * Note - the cost of trimming a tui depends on the height and on the crown depth (width), on the diameters of the trunks and on the number of trim sides ordered by the client.
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