Hyacinth is a bulbous plant, which can be successfully grown in the garden and at home. Therefore, many amateur growers want to grow this flower on their windowsill in order to admire it even in winter, during the cold season. Such a desire is quite feasible. However, for the successful cultivation of hyacinth it is necessary to create the appropriate conditions, most reminiscent of the garden, and to ensure the proper care.

Preparation for growing hyacinth at home

To date, breeders bred several dozen varieties of hyacinth. And most of them are suitable for growing at home. But in order to grow a strong and beautiful flower you need to prepare yourself how to:

  1. Selection of bulbs. First you need to select the appropriate material for planting. It is recommended to use bulbs with a diameter of at least 5 cm. Because it is easier to grow a full-grown plant from a large bulb. A small bulb can throw out the leaves, but never give flowers. In addition, it is necessary to make sure that it is dense, without rot and damage. And immediately before disembarking, it is desirable to treat it with a disinfectant solution.
  2. Pot selection. Then you must select the appropriate pot. It should be wide and shallow. Drain holes must be present in the pot.
  3. Soil preparation. Soil can buy or prepare it yourself. To do this, mix in the same proportions turf, compost, leaf soil, humus and add a small amount of sand and peat.

When growing hyacinth at home, there is one nuance - this flower can not bloom for several years in a row. Flowering is stimulated by artificial forcing, which weakens the bulbs. Therefore, after 1-2 years they need to be planted in the garden plot so that they will go through a period of restoration.

Planting and caring for hyacinths in indoor conditions

After preparing the necessary materials, you can start planting bulbs. Proper planting and care for hyacinths in ambient conditions include the following steps:

  • At the bottom of the pot lay out the drainage layer, for this purpose is suitable clay.
  • Fall asleep a small layer of soil.
  • Then put a thin layer of fine sand.
  • On top of the sand have bulbs. It is possible to plant one onion in a pot, or several, so that a whole bunch will form during flowering. In the latter case, the bulbs are laid out so that they are not in contact with each other and with the pot (the optimal distance is 2-3 cm).
  • Onions gently pressed into the ground and covered with the remaining earth. Top soil can be sprinkled with a thin layer of sand to protect planting material from rotting.

The bulbs do not immerse completely in the soil, their tops must necessarily remain in the air.

Now a rest period is created for the plants so that the bulbs are well rooted. The pot is placed for 1.5–2.5 months in a dark and cool place, for example, in the basement. The air temperature in this room should be from +5 to +10 degrees. In the absence of a basement or cellar, flowers can be placed in the refrigerator. However, be sure to ensure that the temperature in it was not less than 5 degrees Celsius. During this period, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil to prevent it from drying out.

A dormant period is necessary for the successful cultivation of hyacinths in indoor conditions. If the plant is brought out earlier "to the light", it may still be weak, develop poorly and, as a result, do not bloom. Perederzhivat in the dark is also not recommended. The plant will throw away the leaves, all the power will go into them, and as a result the formation of buds will be delayed.

After the rooting of the hyacinth bulbs, an artificial spring is arranged; for this, the flowers move into the house. Here hyacinths should be in a bright room, with the recommended air temperature + 10-15 degrees.

As soon as the plant begins to bloom, it is transferred to the desired room, and placed away from the radiators. To hyacinth long pleased the owners of luxurious luxurious flowers, the air temperature should be no higher than +20 degrees. In addition, it is necessary to eliminate the existence of drafts and provide the plant with good lighting.

How to care for hyacinth at home?

To grow lush, beautiful flowers, you need to take care of them. How to care for hyacinth at home, so that it quickly began to blossom and for a long time pleased the owners with beautiful flowers?

Hyacinth care is relatively uncomplicated, and includes three essential ingredients:

  • watering;
  • good lighting;
  • fertilizer.

Watering. The basis of care for hyacinth in room conditions is competent watering. The ground should be wet, so you need to carefully monitor that it does not dry out, and water the plant in a timely manner. This requirement is important during growth, flowering and during the wintering period. However, the stagnation of water for this plant is also destructive and can provoke a fungal infection. Therefore, you need to make sure that the excess water goes into the pan, and be sure to drain it from there.

During irrigation, you only need to moisturize the soil, and make sure that the water does not fall on the buds, onion and in the sinuses of the leaves. To do this, it is recommended to pour water into the edge of the pot, or pan.


Good lighting.   From time to time it is necessary to turn the flower to the lighting with different sides. This contributes to the uniform growth of the plant. In the evening and on cloudy days, you can additionally highlight the plant with fluorescent lamps. With a lack of lighting the plant can wither, throw off the leaves and young buds.

Dispelling hyacinths at home

A nice feature of the hyacinth is the ability to combine its flowering with a specific period or holiday. To do this, the distillation of hyacinths at home. It is of three types:

  • early - the bulbs are planted in October, and the hyacinth blooms by the New Year;
  • medium - planting is carried out in November, and flowering occurs at the end of January - beginning of February;
  • late - bulbs are planted in December - January and admire the flowers in March - April.

The period from planting to flowering is on average 2.5–3 months.

For homemade hyacinths, forcing the bulbs at home, bulbs must go through several stages of preparation with a gradual decrease in air temperature. After digging, they should be stored for 2 weeks in a warm and humid place with an air temperature of + 28-30 degrees. Then for 2 weeks they are placed in a cool room with a temperature of + 22-25 degrees. Further, for 2 weeks, even colder conditions are created - + 15-17 degrees. And after that the bulbs are ready for planting in the pot.

What to do after flowering hyacinth?

Like all flowering plants, hyacinth will fade over time. What to do with hyacinth after flowering at home? To save his life, it is necessary to cut the flower stalks and do not stop watering and fertilize the plant until the leaves wither. At this time, the maternal bulb is restored and can form affiliated onions.

Then you need to remove the hyacinth from the ground, clean the wilted leaves and for 2–3 days put the onion to dry. If, after digging out the bulbs, the babies are already well developed, they can be separated. If they are badly disconnected, it is better not to touch them until next year. Since the faded bulbs are preferably not used for re-forcing, they are transplanted to the garden plot. Planting is carried out in the fall, and next year they will delight the owners with flowers in a flowerbed.

To get the bulbs that can be used for growing in room conditions, the plant is not allowed to bloom properly. The buds are cut off so that the bulb can recover. In the fall, it is taken out of the ground, dried, and the distillation procedure is again carried out.

House Hyacinth Breeding

Hyacinth breeds children (daughter of onions), which are carefully disconnected from the adult bulb. Natural division occurs slowly, in one year the mother bulb can form a maximum of 4 children. Therefore, in horticulture using an artificial method of breeding hyacinths at home. In order to quickly get a large number of babies, they practice special techniques - cutting and incising Donets.

Before starting artificial reproduction, the bulbs are treated with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate and dried at an air temperature of + 20–23 degrees for 2–3 days.

Cutting Donets. This technique is carried out after a period of rest. A teaspoon in the bulbs is carefully cut out the bottom, then stored in boxes cut up at an air temperature of at least +21 degrees. After 2–3 months, small children in the amount of 20–40 pieces begin to form in sections.

After the appearance of the babies, the onion is planted in a cool greenhouse. Young onions begin to grow and throw away the first leaves. After the growing season, they are taken out of the ground, separated and planted for rearing. 3-4 years later the ripened bulbs throw out their first flower stalks.

Incision ground.   This method is similar to the previous one, with the difference that the bottom is not cut, and 2–4 cuts are made in it at a depth of 0.5–0.6 cm. The processing and storage conditions are the same as in the first method. The number of babies with this method decreases (8–15 pcs.), But they will be larger and stronger. The growing period in this case is reduced to 2-3 years.

The process of growing hyacinths at home is quite simple, but very fruitful. For its successful implementation, you need to have a great desire and a little patience. And, of course, follow all the rules and recommendations that relate to planting and caring for hyacinths in indoor conditions.

Many gardeners tend to grow hyacinths on their land, planting and care in the open field for which they require certain time-consuming. In this article we will look at how to grow these beautiful flowers (even in those regions where the earth freezes through in winter), when to dig up hyacinths, how to store bulbs, how to propagate the variety you like.

Hyacinths in the flowerbed (photo by Nadezhda Abramovich, Krasnodar)

In early spring, as soon as the snow melts, green arrows of hyacinths sprout from the ground. This flower with a bewitching and pronounced aroma differs by all shades of a rainbow. The inflorescences in the form of brushes can be both ordinary and double in structure, on the peduncle 20-30 buds are usually located.

Planting hyacinths in the ground: the choice of bulbs and places for their planting

Perennial hyacinth is a bulbous crop, the size of the bulb may vary depending on the type of flower. Planting material is considered an adult by the age of 5-6, when fully formed. The tuber is a scaly sphere with a kidney renewal - it is this that affects its growth. Adult bulbs by the 5th year usually acquire children, which are formed near the Donets and hidden under the scales.

Hyacinth, flower photo:

When selecting tubers, you should pay attention to the following nuances:

  1. Bulbs of terry species are often smaller in size, unlike their usual counterparts.
  2. To grow flowers in open ground tuber must have at least 4 cm in diameter, full-fledged active bud and multiple scales. Elasticity and severity - indicators of the healthy state of the bulb.
  3. The appearance of the bulb should be perfect - no damage to the sides, mold.
  4. Root buds must be present at the bottom of the tuber (near the bottom).
  5. The end of a bulb suitable for planting should be about one and a half to two times smaller than the bulb itself (we are talking about volume).

The key to long and lush flowering is not only high-quality planting material, but also the place itself for planting. You can break a flower bed near trees or bushes, but not very close to them. A place for plants should be windless, well lit by sunlight. The soil is needed loose, if you have black soil or loam on the site, then it is advisable to add peat to it in advance (you can also have sand). Turf ground or leafy humus are excellent conditions for the development, growth and flowering of hyacinths.

Organic fertilizer gives good results as a fertilizer, but dung should not be used. If the soil is acidic (pH above 6.5), then it should be diluted with dolomite (limestone) flour. Hyacinth tubers hate excessive moisture. If your site groundwater lies close to the surface (closer than 0.5 m), you can not do without the arrangement of high beds. In addition, the plants will have to provide high-quality drainage substrate, as well as make a small slope of the ridge - for better outflow of water during rains, spring thawing of snow. With the arrival of spring, the high beds warm up faster in the sun, hyacinths bloom much earlier.

When to plant hyacinths

A reasonable time to plant the bulbs is mid-September / October. It should be taken into account that if you plant a tuber too early, it will begin to develop, but it will not survive the winter, it will freeze. If you plant hyacinths too late, they will not have time to take root and get used to the place - respectively, too, will die. If you are late in landing, then hurry by the first week of November - this is the latest date. To do this, you will have to resort to additional measures - to cover the landing site with fallen leaves, spruce branches or any other shelter to prevent bulbs from freezing.

Is it possible to plant hyacinths in spring? I often see gardeners asking about spring planting of hyacinths. Most likely this question arises in the event that you bought or were presented with a blooming hyacinth in a pot. How to be in this case with a bulb? First, let the flower bloom. Secondly, do not immediately transplant the bulb in the open ground. Allow the bulb to ripen: reduce watering, leave the flower alone, wait until all the leaves turn yellow and begin to die. It will take about a month and a half. After that, empty the bulb from the pot and leave in the shade until September-October (dates depend on the region). And then do what the council recommends planting hyacinths in the fall.

Cultivation of hyacinths in open ground

It is highly desirable to prepare the soil in advance - dig up to a depth of about 40-45 cm and add the required additives (depending on the composition and condition of the soil). Limestone (200 g), wood ash (150 g), superphosphate (50-70 g), magnesium sulphate (10 g) or potassium (20 g) are added from the approximate calculation for 1 m² of land. To prevent fragile young roots from being damaged during planting, digging up the soil at the site of the future flower garden is also important. During the penetration of the bulbs, the soil temperature should be about 8-11 degrees, the distance between the tubers should be no more than 10-15 cm. bloomed at the same time, make sure that all tubers are about the same size.

Hyacinth, photos of bulbs:

The place for the future flower bed is mulched with leaves or some other suitable material, covered with plastic wrap to preserve heat. After tuber digging, the area is covered with sawdust or peat, it can also be covered again with foliage or pine spruce. Special covering material is great for this purpose. With the arrival of the first days of spring, the protective coating can be removed to clear the way for peeking hyacinth sprouts.

As mentioned above, the bulbs should be healthy, but if you are still afraid of fungal manifestations, you can soak them in the solution of the fungicide. The width and depth of the hole under the tuber should be equal to two of its size - about 15-25 cm, a little sand can be poured at the bottom, after which the tuber should be sunk down (somewhere by 13-15 cm). The bulb is sprinkled with soil, which needs to be slightly tamped, then watered. The root system of the plant absorbs moisture and nutrients from the earth within a radius of about 20 cm from the tuber - this should be taken into account. Small onions should not be deeply buried, they should also be planted rather thickly.

How to care for hyacinth

After the protective cover is removed, the care of the plants will consist in weeding, regular watering, loosening of the soil, making supplements. It should be borne in mind that hyacinths are poorly related to the neighborhood of weeds. When the buds start to tie and the flowering time comes, fertilizing the soil becomes especially relevant. After sprouting sprouts, flowers can be fed with saltpeter (25-30 g per 1 m²).

The second stage of fertilizer follows the period when the buds are picking up color. Now, in addition to ammonium nitrate, you can add potassium chloride (25 g) and a phosphorus additive (for example, superphosphate, 35 g). At the end of flowering, superphosphate and potassium chloride are added to the plot - 35 g of each product per 1 m² of area. Fertilizers are cultivated between the rows or between the flowers; after adding fertilizing, watering is always necessary.

Hyacinths - how to care after flowering? Unfortunately, this beautiful period is swift, after drying the flowers should continue to saturate the roots with moisture. In order for the tubers to recover well after flowering, watering and fertilizer should come first. If you live in a “cold” region, you cannot leave hyacinths for the winter, you have to dig them up - these are necessary measures for further favorable formation of kidney replacement.

If you live in the Kuban, in the Crimea, in the north of the Caucasus, then the annual excavation of tubers can be avoided, but only on the condition of a very hot summer. It should be borne in mind that the bulbs left in the ground for the next year will produce much fewer flowers.


  Hyacinths have not been transplanted for a long time (photo by Anna Nepetrovskaya, Novokubansk, Krasnodar Territory)

When digging hyacinths after flowering

The best period is the last weeks of June - the first half of July, when the leaves of the plant become yellow and weak. The ground part of the flower is removed, the tubers are removed from the soil, washed with water and thoroughly dried. Next, we conduct an audit - we discard damaged (or with obvious signs of illness). If there are undeveloped children on the bulb, they are separated and set aside for growing. Before storage, all tubers must be treated for diseases and pests.

Planting material, photo:

After all manipulations, the bulbs should be dried for about 7-10 days in a well-ventilated place at an air temperature of +17 .. + 20 ° C. To do this, they need to be expanded on clean paper, and at the expiration of the specified time, hide in paper bags. It is the period after flowering, as well as the processing and storage of tubers - the most important for hyacinths. At this time, the planting material acclimatizes, the scales dry up, the tubers are prepared for the summer period.

With a sufficiently high summer temperature to the bulbs should provide access to air and moderate humidity (if the thermometer reaches + 30 ° C). About three weeks before planting, the temperature in the room with the bulbs should be lowered to +16 ° C - this will help them adapt before planting.

How to propagate hyacinths at home

Separately, it is worth considering the methods of reproduction, as the tubers can produce flowers for two or three years, but at the same time they will not form children. For this, the bulbs need stimulation, it is carried out in various ways.

Cutting Hyacinth Tuber

Even when landing on the site is determined by the place where the largest bulbs are planted. After the leaves turn yellow in the plant, the tuber is removed from the ground and immediately, without letting it dry out, they arrange a “shower” under strong pressure of water. During this process, old scales are removed along with the soil. Then the bulbs are laid out in one layer in a ventilated box, put into a shaded place, dried for about 7-10 days. After this time, using a sharp knife on the bottom, a wedge-shaped cut is made, at which the kidney and the bottom itself are completely removed. The cut must be processed with crushed activated carbon.

After this operation, the tubers spread in a container, the bottom of which is carpeted with a layer of perlite. Bulbs should be laid cut bottom up. Next, the container is placed in a large plastic bag (garbage bags can be used) to create the required microclimate. At a temperature of + 30 ° C and high humidity, children will appear at the cut-off site, and after 2-3 months they will reach about 1 cm, acquire rudiments of roots and start small processes. If the cutting of the ground leaves was done in the first months of summer, then the tuber with the children can be planted in the soil and covered with sawdust (or peat).

If time is missed, the tubers are turned upside down, placed in a container with soil, placed in a cold (refrigerator, basement), and when spring comes, they are planted on the site.

After the hyacinths have faded, what to do next? With the onset of August, these tubers are dug up (by the time they are already covered with babies), they separate the babies. By the beginning of September, the young generation of hyacinths is buried in the soil, covered with 10 cm of a layer of mulch (sawdust, spruce, foliage, peat). At the end of the first wintering, the mulch layer is removed, but left in place after the second winter. In the third year, these hyacinths give color and delight you with a wonderful aroma.

Reproduction scales with bulbs

Large tubers (about 5-6 cm in diameter) are cut into 4 parts, after which some scales are separated from the bottom, the “wound” surface is treated with crushed activated charcoal. Further, a container is taken, at the bottom of which perlite or clean sand is poured, it is also possible to use crushed charcoal with ash. Broken scales are put into this container, then it is placed in a transparent plastic bag, securely tied and aged for 2 months in case of not too bright lighting.

At the same time, the air temperature should be approximately + 19..23 ° С, but at the second stage, which lasts for a month and a half, the temperature should be reduced to + 16..19 ° С. During this period, several onions will be tied up on scales. Storage of young stock is similar to the method described in the first method.

Propagation of hyacinths by cuttings of leaf

To do this, wait for the period of the ovary of the flower stalks and separate them from the hyacinths by a pair of sheets, they should be cut as close as possible to the base. Next, the leaves are treated in a solution that stimulates root formation (for example, “Heteroauxin”) and is buried 3-4 cm into a container with clean sand (or perlite). This container, again, is enclosed in a plastic bag, tied up and placed in a moderately lit place for a month and a half. The air temperature should vary within + 10..17 ° C, humidity - 80-90%. After a specified period on the cuttings, you can see bulbous rudiments, and after 50-60 days - young roots and small leaves. Next, the plants are planted on the site, each cutting subsequently gives 6-10 children.

Cutting Donets as a method of breeding hyacinth

In this procedure, the Donets is not removed, as in the first case, but is incised in a crisscross pattern. On large tubers, a pair of crosses is made, on those that are smaller, one. The damaged areas are treated with powdered activated carbon, then the bulbs are placed in a warm room for 24 hours (+ 20..22 ° C) so that the “crosses” will open. All further actions are similar to the above recommendations. With this method of stimulation of the tuber it is possible to get about 10-16 large young onions.

In order for these heralds of spring to please you with long flowering, pomp of brushes and amazing aroma, you need to make an effort. Now you know how to grow hyacinths, planting and care in the open field for which, although they are difficult, they undoubtedly are wasted time and effort.


  The first flowers (photo Love White, Krasnodar)

However, she never grew them. This year I had the first long-awaited flower - a gift for March 8 from my husband. I would like to save it. Tell me what to do when the hyacinths fade away to see their flowering again next spring?


The intoxicating aroma of hyacinth and the elegant rocking-flower of a wide variety of colorings ... Seeing this beauty once, breathing in the aroma you always want to enjoy it. Therefore, you should not throw away the flower after flowering, because hyacinths can bloom for almost 10 years, if properly care for them and store.

What can be done with hyacinths when they are bloomed, so that the plant continues to please the eye? The answer to this question depends on where these flowers grow. In general, hyacinth is considered to be a garden flower, however, it is often grown in pots in order to get an earlier flowering.

Hyacinths bloomed in pots, what to do next?

When growing hyacinths in indoor conditions after the end of flowering, there are two options for actions that differ in the time of planting a flower in open ground:



  1. Spring landing. After cutting off the peduncle, transfer the hyacinth bulb to a larger pot, add new nutrient soil on top and place in a cool, but well-lit place until the end of spring. At the beginning of May, an adult hyacinth with young shoots should be planted on a flower bed. Over the summer, it will grow stronger in the open field, and the onions can be re-grown in a pot.

Bloomed hyacinth flowerbed

If the hyacinth is grown in open ground, after the end of flowering the plant is not touched until the leaves turn yellow. When this happens, the bulbs need to be dug and prepared for storage:


  • on the bottom of the bulbs with a knife make cuts in the form of a cross;
  • after each bulb knife should be cleaned with alcohol;
  • dry cuts well;
  • put the bulbs in storage.

At the beginning of autumn (September), hyacinths should be planted back into the flowerbed. Bed under the flowers they dig up, they make mineral fertilizers.

Video about the care of hyacinth after flowering


Think a hyacinth flower? No, this is the name of the young man, the beloved friend of the Greek god Apollo. Often the young men had fun throwing the disc in turn. But the jealousy of the god of the Western winds led to misfortune. And now Hyacinth is bleeding from the hands of his friend, the god Apollo. Nothing could help him Apollo, only in memory of a friend created a unique flower and called it Hyacinth.

Here, it turns out, thanks to whom many women on March 8 receive a delightfully smelling gift. Yes, and a variety of colors: white, pale yellow, pink (any tone), purple, blue, blue, red, purple.

Growing hyacinths at home

Looking at the hyacinth, everyone will think: “I want! Want! Want!". If you want, then everything will be, while you have to try. "Hyacinth" - the Greek word, translated as "flower of rain", maybe because the florist needs to shed a lot of sweat over his growing. This is, of course, a joke, but one should not only know the peculiarities of growing, but also adhere to them methodically.

First, we note that it may be necessary to provide additional lighting and supports for flower stalks (too inflorescences weighty). Our task is to get as close as possible to the conditions of the natural environment - South Asia and the Mediterranean.

Choice of location, suitable temperature and light

This is a difficult matter, since all the factors listed below should be taken into account:

  • daylight takes about 15 hours (windows will approach to the south or southeast, others need additional lighting - extension of the daylight);
  • the flower loves the light, but not the heat - the comfortable temperature is a little more than 20˚С - so it will be necessary to clean the pot or to shade it from the direct sun in summer;
  • does not tolerate drafts or sudden changes in temperature;
  • likes to walk to the terrace or balcony at the proper temperature;
  • in winter, the neighborhood with heating devices is unacceptable.

Creating the necessary humidity of air and soil

Everything is simple - you can not allow the drying out of the soil - on the one hand, the rotting of the bulbs and leaves - on the other. Watering to produce a regular, along the walls of the pot, not reaching the bulbs. Remove excess water from the drain pan. Hyacinth does not require spraying, and this procedure is prohibited during flowering.

Soil selection, fertilizer

The choice of soil mixture is important, neutral soil will be suitable for hyacinth, ideally using leaf and sod land, peat, humus and sand in the same proportions. No fresh organic. Pre-calcine the earth for 1.5 hours in the oven for disinfection. For lush flowering, the plant will require strength, which means fertilizing is required (with conventional complex fertilizers for flowering plants). The first time at the beginning of the growing season, then - during the budding period, it is possible a little in the final phase of flowering.

How to pick up planting material

The key to beautiful flowering is a quality bulb. Bulbs should be selected in flower shops according to the following parameters:

  • bulb diameter is not less than five centimeters;
  • no damage and rottenness;
  • bulb dense, not dried;
  • the best time to buy bulbs is August.

If you acquire, then the stem and peduncle should be erect.

Distillation of hyacinth How to adjust the beginning of flowering on a specific date?

Quite roughly it can be calculated as follows: from planting to flowering takes about 2.5 months, the plant itself blooms 10-18 days (depending on the variety), so it is easy to calculate. We want the new year - starting in the middle of October, by Valentine's Day - the end of November, by March 8 - the 20th of December. Before buying the bulbs, carefully read the growing conditions - the most important thing is that different temperatures are required for the three phases of forcing (which means a different place).

First stage   - we put an onion in a pot and imitate winter. 1.5 -2 months contain the pot at a temperature of up to 8 ° C and full blackout. This may be a cellar, and in the absence of it - the lower section of the refrigerator (close the pot with the package). We proceed to the next stage when the appeared sprout reaches 5 cm. The substrate in the flowerpot is kept constantly wet, drying is unacceptable.

Second phase   - temperature increase of 5-7 ° C (spring comes), the room is still darkened. Gradually, you can move closer to the window, adding light. We are waiting for the appearance of buds.

Third stage   - flowering, passes under good illumination and a temperature of about 20 ˚C. The golden rule is that there are no sudden increases in heat and heat, otherwise you will not see colors.

Planting hyacinth at home

The pot is filled with nutrient ground two-thirds in height. No need to tamper.

Bulbs are planted half the height to the tops were on the surface. So the hyacinth will not be ill with putrefactive diseases and will perfectly develop.

After gently pouring, do not touch yourself, put the pot in a dark cool place. When the leaves will be 7-8 cm in height, the pot should be placed on a sunny windowsill.

If you have presented the whole process, find places with a suitable temperature - go ahead, plant the bulbs. This is a simple matter.

  • You can pick up individual vases 5 cm wider than the bulbs, and you can place hyacinths in a container for several pieces (at a distance of 2-3 cm) - so they look more impressive flowers.
  • At the bottom of the tank must be placed drainage, then the ground, do not pour to the top, so that the planted bulb looks out 2 cm from the soil.
  • We plant the bulbs (not close to the edge of the container), we tamp the soil and water it abundantly.
  • Above, you can pour a layer of sand (up to 1 cm) to avoid rotting of the bulbs. Everything, we cover with a dark film (ventilation holes are necessary) and in the "winter", on the first phase.

Hyacinth at home after flowering

The eastern name of the hyacinth is “Curls of Gurias”. So they blossomed, pleased us with their curls, wonderful aroma, now it's time to relax.

What to do with home hyacinth after flowering:

  • The flower has blossomed - we cut off the peduncle. During the rest period, we adhere to moderate watering, give the plant the opportunity to form "kids" and gain strength of the main bulb.
  • Feed the plant complex fertilizer.
  • Only after the leaves have completely dried should the onion be dug.
  • Carefully inspect, dry in the air, remove the dry husk, too small "kids" should remain with the "mother", and can be separated into larger ones.
  • All of them must be thoroughly dried - the first week even at 30 ° C, then another 2 weeks - 25 ° C, and before planting - at a temperature of 17 ° C and high humidity (so that the onions do not dry out). This is a very important stage, because right now the future inflorescence and small children are forming (therefore, with the next planting, you must be careful not to damage them).

In the fall, hyacinth bulbs need to be planted in the ground on a flower bed so that they can recover from flowering at home. Plant them deeper (15–20 cm) so that they do not freeze, and cover with a layer of 10 cm of mulch. In the spring, remove the shelter. The plants may not bloom in the spring, but they will be well prepared for the next distillation in the new season. In the fall, the bulbs can be dug, dried and stored in a cool place before planting in a pot. The bulbs can form babies, it is better to separate them carefully and leave them in a flower bed, they will grow 4-5 years until they reach the size of adult bulbs. Only then can they be used for forcing at home.

How to propagate hyacinths at home

  • A faded plant is not suitable for re-forcing a house - it is necessary to plant it in open ground (in the fall, even on a flower bed at the entrance) in order for it to gain strength.
  • If you plan to grow it at home again in a year, then this year the hyacinth should not bloom in the soil (you will have to cut the flower stem).
  • Small baby for 3-4 years can grow up to normal size, so that it is suitable for forcing at home.
  • Over the years, the “young” will go through the growing season without flowering, gradually gaining power.

Here a sensible thought is born: for getting buy ready-made planting material, and let it be grown in nurseries.

Diseases and pests

The flower is occasionally affected by yellow bacterial rot, with which, alas, nothing can be done. Plant with the ground will have to throw, but if you plan to use the pot further, you need to disinfect.
  Pests can be:

  • spider mite;
  • nematodes;

Insecticides are used to combat them, although this cannot be done during the flowering period.
  Possible problems in the care of hyacinth at home:

  • yellow leaves - to blame for the draft and watering in the outlet;
  • leaves wither - lack of lighting;
  • drop of buds - water fell on the buds, a sharp temperature drop;
  • cessation of flowering - the flower is hot;
  • rotting - chronic waterlogging.

Conclusion: Hyacinth can be grown by showing patience and attentiveness. Grow wisely and enjoy luxurious blooms!

Hyacinth Description

Hyacinths photos when planted at home Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Delft Blue’ photo

Hyacinth is now attributed to the Asparagus family, although it was previously isolated into a separate Hyacinth family or attributed to the Lilein. This bulbous perennial is considered to come from Asia Minor, but the Dutch breeders worked so hard at breeding its new varieties, spreading the flower and the bulbs, that it can be considered a truly modern “Dutchman”.

Hyacinth - a plant up to 30 cm high, from a dense bulb the stalk and oblong leaves grows. Hyacinth flowers - small bells with twisted leaves - are collected in a dense cone-like inflorescence (resembles a cob). In appearance the flowers are simple and terry.

At the end of flowering, both the peduncle and the leaves dry up, in the corners of the leaves you need to look for small onion-kids (you can continue to apply for breeding), and the main bulb develops on the stem inside the maternal bulb.
  Perfectly proven at home, also in the open field (where it is one of the first to be shown from the ground in the spring). This is not unfounded, it says more than four hundred years of experience of breeding hyacinths. During this time, about 30 species were attributed to this species, including five hundred different varieties of plants.

Today, however, three types of hyacinths are attributed:

  • eastern (Hyacinthus orientalis);
  • Litvinova (Hyacinthus litwinowii);
  • Transcaspian (Hyacinthus transcaspicus).

It is on their basis that the whole variety of forms and colors of these plants is created.

Types and varieties of hyacinth with photos and descriptions

Eastern Hyacinth Hyacinthus orientalis   - the same great-grandfather of most of today's varieties. On a thin peduncle flowers with a delicate aroma are loosely placed. It can have any of the shades of white, yellow, pink or blue. In the wild, you can meet in Lebanon, Turkey or Syria.

Hyacinth Litvinova Hyacinthus litwinowii   - has bluish leaves and light blue flowers with protruding stamens. Natural area - Iran, Turkmenistan.

Transcaspian Hyacinth Hyacinthus transcaspicus   - a short flower (up to 20 cm), has up to two stems, the leaves are equally thickened along the entire length. In loose inflorescence no more than a dozen flowers. Natural place - the mountains of Turkmenistan.
  Another classification of hyacinths is their separation by color:

  •   - Arentine Arendsen (white or cream flowers), terry Snow Crystal and Madame Sophie;

  •   - Yellow Hammer (deep yellow), Oranje Boven (pale yellow), City of Haarlem (salmon);

  • pink - Anna Marie (light pink), Gertruda (rich pink), Moreno (pink with a dark crimson stripe);
  • red - La Victoire, Tubergen’s Scarlet, Hollyhock (terry);

  • lilac - Bismarck (pale), Blue Magic (red-violet), Indigo King (dark-violet);
  • blue - Queen of the Blues (pale blue), Perle Brillante (fawn blue), Marie (deep blue).

Flower hyacinth (Latin Hyacinthus), Is a genus of bulbous perennials from the Asparagus family, although it was previously isolated into a separate family of Hyacinths or included in the Liliaceae family. In ancient Greek, the name of the flower translates as "flower of rain". The hyacinth got its name in honor of the hero of the ancient Greek myth: in those days a fine young man, Hyacinth, son of the king of Sparta, the young friend of the god Apollo, who often descended from heaven and taught Hyacinth to throw a disk, lived. During one of the training sessions, Apollo threw a disk, and Hyacinth rushed after him to raise and bring Apollo, but the god of the West wind, secretly in love with the prince, in a fit of jealousy turned the flying disk so that he smashed his head. Hyacinth was bleeding on the hands of his almighty friend who could not save him ... Apollo, heartbroken and filled with tenderness, created a flower of hyacinth of amazing beauty and gave him the name of the deceased young man ...

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Planting and caring for hyacinths (in brief)

  • Landing:   The bulbs are planted in the ground in September-October.
  • Digging: annually after the leaves turn yellow - in late June and early July.
  • Storage:   in rooms with moderate humidity and good air circulation in boxes, folded in two layers, or in paper bags: 2 months at 25 ˚C, then at 17 ˚C.
  • Lighting:   bright sunlight.
  • The soil:   permeable, fertilized, with a high content of humus, with a pH not lower than 6.5.
  • Watering:   in a dry season, the soil should be soaked to a depth of 15-20 cm.
  • Top dressing:   2-3 times per season: 1 time - at the beginning of growth with nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizer, 2 times - during budding and 3 times - after completion of flowering with potash-phosphorus fertilizer.
  • Reproduction:   seed and vegetative - children.
  • Pests:   flower flies (hoverlocks), aphid, thrips, root onion mites, stem and gall nematodes, bears.
  • Diseases:   penicillous rot, rhizoctoniosis, fusarium, yellow or soft bacterial rot, variegation.
  • Properties:   all parts of hyacinth contain toxic alkaloids.

Read more about growing hyacinths below.

Flowers hyacinths - description

Hyacinths - one of the earliest spring flowers. The homeland of hyacinths is the Middle East, North Africa and the Mediterranean, but Holland has done so much to popularize them, that it can rightly be called the world "hyacinth center." The largest number of varieties and varieties of hyacinths was created in the Netherlands, and every year millions of hyacinth bulbs are sent from the Dutch city of Haarlem.

Dense bulbs of hyacinths consist of succulent bottom leaves, and a flowering stem (30 cm in height), which is a continuation of the bottom, dries after flowering along with narrow, upward leaves that sit at the bottom at the bottom, but in the corner of the upper leaf, on the stem inside bulbs bud formed, gradually turning into a bulb that will bloom in the coming year. In the corners of other leaves, weak bulbs often also form, so-called babies, which can be separated and used for vegetative propagation. Hyacinth flowers are collected in apical racemes, having the shape of a cylinder or a cone. The perianth of the flower is a brightly colored bell-shaped funnel with folded blades.

Shades of hyacinth are a wide palette: white, red, pink, purple, blue, pale yellow ... In the form of flowers hyacinths are simple and terry. The fruit of the hyacinth is three-cavity, in each nest there are two seeds with delicate skin.

See photos of the hyacinth with the names of the species and variety

Hyacinth cultivation - features

Each plant has its own requirements in agricultural engineering. A hyacinth flower is a capricious plant, and a florist who decides to decorate his garden with these flowers should know how to properly care for hyacinths. For the hyacinth lover following features you need to know:

  • the soil for hyacinths should be neutral and in equal parts of the leaf and sod land with the addition of a baking powder. If the soil is acidic at the site, it needs to be chilled, sand will have to be added to the clay soil;
  • good drainage is very important because the hyacinth flower does not tolerate overmoistening;
  • the lighting should be bright, but hyacinths do not tolerate an overabundance of direct sunlight;
  • the site must be protected from strong winds, so many gardeners prefer to plant hyacinths near shrubs and trees;
  • do not use fresh organic matter as a fertilizer for hyacinths.

  Planting hyacinths in open ground

When to plant hyacinths

Planting hyacinths in the ground is carried out in late September or early October. With the earlier planting, hyacinths can quickly start growing and die during the winter cold, and with a later planting, the hyacinths may not have time to take root before frost. Prepare the soil for planting hyacinths need to be in advance:   Dig the soil to a depth of 30–40 cm, apply mineral fertilizers (approximately 70 g of superphosphate, 15 g of magnesium sulphate, 30 g of potassium sulphate per 1 m²), three to four years old humus, or compost at the rate of 10–15 kg per 1 m².

If necessary (depending on the composition of the soil) also add sand or peat.

If the soil is sandy, then the amount of magnesium and potash fertilizers should be increased by one and a half times. Nitrogen fertilizers are best applied in spring and summer as a top dressing.

Planting hyacinths in the fall

As already mentioned, planting hyacinths in open ground should be in September and October. Florists recommend choosing not very large bulbs for planting, but medium, so-called flower beds, which will give you more weather-resistant flower stalks. Bulbs are sifted, rejected soft, sick and damaged. Before planting the bulbs, they are kept in fungicide solution for half an hour.

The depth of planting hyacinth bulbs from the bottom is 15-18 cm (for bulbs with a diameter of approximately 5 cm), the distance between them is 15 cm, and between the rows is 20 cm. Smaller bulbs and children are planted thicker and not so deep. The hyacinth flower grows well in the open field, if you plant it in a “sand shirt”: put a layer of clean river sand 3-5 cm thick at the bottom of the hole or furrow, lightly press a bulb into it, cover it with sand, and then with soil. This method of planting does not allow water to stagnate in the soil, therefore, reduced risk of rotting bulbs.   After planting the bulbs, if the ground is dry, water the area.

Planting hyacinths in spring

Hyacinth flower in spring is not planted.

  Care for hyacinths in the open field

How to care for hyacinths in the garden

So, how to care for hyacinth?   Hyacinth care is not complicated, but the requirements for agricultural engineering must be strictly followed. First, the hyacinth is clean, so weed control   on a plot with hyacinths - a mandatory rule. In addition, the plant needs constant soil loosening. If you want to facilitate your work and at the same time protect the soil from drying out, and hyacinth from weeds and diseases - grumble the soil after planting. Concerning glazethen it is necessary in a dry time: the earthy lump should get wet 15-20 cm deep.

In the photo: Growing hyacinths in flowerbed

Hyacinth care includes mandatory dressings.   Feeding hyacinths   carried out 2-3 times during the growing season. Fertilizers are applied both in dry form and in the form of solutions, but slightly less fertilizer is put into the solution than with dry dressing, and the soil is watered before the liquid dressing. Dry fertilizers scatter on the ground and then buried in the soil with a hoe.

How and when to plant tulips, and how to be later

The first time fertilizers are applied at the very beginning of growth (15-20 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of nitrate per 1 m²), the second time is fed during budding (15-20 g of potassium sulphate and 30-35 g of superphosphate), the third dressing is made, when hyacinth blooms complete (30-35 g each of superphosphate and potassium sulfate).

Hyacinth Transplant

Transplanting flowers hyacinths is simple: in the summer you dig up hyacinth bulbs after flowering, store them until the fall, and in the fall repot them in another place. When to dig hyacinths?   Two months after the end of flowering, when the bulbs recuperate after the growing season of this year.

Hyacinth multiplication

Hyacinths are propagated by baby bulbs and seeds. For those involved in plant breeding, the seed method is more suitable than others: in the fall, at the end of September, seeds are sown in boxes with soil consisting of 1: 1: 2 sand, leafy earth and humus, and grown for two years cold greenhouse, but seedlings almost never repeat the signs of parent plants, so amateur growers prefer the vegetative propagation method.

Planting and caring for crocuses in the garden - detailed instructions

True, the growth of children in hyacinth bulbs is slow: every year they grow by 1-3 children. If they are easily separated from the maternal bulb, they are deposited and grown, and if the children are not separated, then the maternal bulb is planted with the children.

Pictured: Hyacinth blooming in open field

In industrial floriculture, such artificial breeding methods are used, such as cutting and incision of the bottom: with a sharp sterile tool, cuts are made on the bottom, or it is cut out altogether so that with further storage in a special way new bulbs form. Sometimes the result is staggering - up to forty children on one bulb.   If you are interested in these methods, you can learn about them in detail in the book “Plant Reproduction” by F. Mac-Millan Browse.

Hyacinth diseases and pests

Flowers hyacinths do not suffer from excessive pain, but if something bad happens and they get sick, then here’s a list of reasons:

  • purchase of already infected planting material;
  • too heavy acidic soil;
  • you used fresh organic matter as a fertilizer;
  • adverse precursors;
  • scanned damaged cucumbers when culling;
  • neglected preventive disinfection of bulbs before planting;
  • very densely planted hyacinths.

Yellow hyacinths are most commonly affected. bacterial rot   (a bacterial disease) that turns bulbs into fetid mucus. The first symptoms are growth retardation, spots and stripes on the peduncle and leaves. Affected plants should be excavated and burned, and the hole should be etched with bleach.

Penicillous rot   (fungal disease) is expressed in the fact that all the above-ground parts are covered with bloom (the product of sporulation of the fungus) and rot, the flowers dry. Fight a fungus by spraying copper-containing drugs.

Pictured: How the hyacinths bloom in spring

Of pests cause trouble hyacinths flower flieswhose larvae eat the bottom of the bulb. Destroy them with drugs Muhoed, Aktar, Tabazol.

Medvedka, which feeds on the underground organs of plants, as well as the root onion mite, and the best way to combat them, is soil mulching.

Sometimes this happens with hyacinths: the inflorescence, failing to emerge from the outlet, falls out of it. The cause of this phenomenon is not a disease, but an excess of moisture in the soil, too early planting or storage at too low a temperature.

Hyacinths have faded - what to do?

Care for hyacinths after flowering is to give their bulbs an opportunity to regain their strength. To do this, they have some time to be in the ground. How to care for fading hyacinths?   It is only necessary to gradually reduce watering until it is completely stopped. In addition, this period accounts for the third fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, which will add nutrients to the bulbs for flowering next year. When it is time to dig up hyacinths after flowering, you will be prompted by their yellowed leaves.

Pictured: Hyacinth Growing

Digging hyacinths

Hyacinth bulbs should dig up annuallyOtherwise, next year the flowering may be much poorer, in addition, the risk of bulb disease increases. Annual digging also allows you to monitor the condition of the bulbs and the timely separation of the children for rearing.

Do not wait until the leaves die off and fall off, because then it will be difficult to locate the bulb.

They dig up the bulbs with a spade, as they sit in the ground rather deeply, rinse in running water, pickle them for half an hour in a three-four percent solution of Karbofos or stand for 10 minutes in water heated to 50 ºC. They are then aired and dried in a dark place at 20 ºC for a week.

Planting hyacinths for distillation - what yes how

There comes the most crucial period, because at this time in the bulb inflorescence is formed. Dried onions cleaned of residues of roots and scales, divided by parsing and laid out in boxes, preferably in a single layer. Small baby is better not to separate. If there are not very many onions, you can store them in paper bags by sticking signed labels on them.

In the photo: the germination of hyacinths in the refrigerator

Storage is carried out in two stages: the first two months of the bulbs are stored at a temperature of 25-26 ºC, and the third - at 17 ºC with not very low humidity, so that the bulbs do not dry out. You can shorten the first stage by a week by creating a temperature of 30 ºC in the first seven days of storage. The room must be well ventilated. And before the autumn planting, it would be nice to hold the bulbs for a week at a temperature close to that in the garden. During storage, often small bulbs form in the bulbs, so be very careful when planting them in the fall in the ground.

  Types and varieties of hyacinths

Are grown hyacinths at home and in the garden are about 400 years old, and most recently it was thought that there are about 30 species and 500 varieties of hyacinths. But after the reorganization of classifications in botany, most of the species were transferred to another genus. Now only three types of hyacinths are classified: oriental Hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), hyacinth Litvinova (Hyacinthus litwinowii)   and transcaspian Hyacinth (Hyacinthus transcaspicus)   - These species are the basis for the cultivation of countless varieties and varieties of plants. Hyacinth varieties are divided by flower shape (simple and terry), by flowering time (early, middle and late) and by flower color. In the color classification of flowers, hyacinths are divided into six groups:

Blue hyacinths

  • Perle brillante   - late hyacinth of pale-blue color, height - 25 cm, blooms up to three weeks;
  • Marie   - an early variety of dark blue with a violet longitudinal stripe blooms 16-18 days;
  • Queen of the Blues   - medium flowering variety of light blue color with a faint aroma, height - 30 cm, it blooms up to two weeks;

In the photo: Blue Jacket in Hyacinth

Lilac Hyacinths

  • Blue magic   - medium flowering variety of purple-violet color 25 cm high, blooms 10-12 days;
  • Indigo king   - Late variety of black-purple color, shiny flowers, the height of the arrow is 15-17 cm, it blooms for two weeks;
  • Bismarck   - early variety, pale purple flowers with a brighter longitudinal stripe, height - 22-25 cm, blooms for two weeks;