For breeding with green cuttings, it is advisable to take roses with a high degree of rooting of cuttings, primarily easily rooted climbing (small-color and large-color), semi-triple and miniature. The varieties of these groups rooted by 90-100%. Middle-rooted roses are suitable for green cutting: floribunda, polyanthus, tea-hybrid, reparative, and also park roses from the groups of Alba and Rugoz. Most of the other park roses, united in groups of lutea, pimpinellifolia, Damascus, centifolnye and others, are rooted weakly (5-20%).

Timing grafting

The optimal period for harvesting cuttings is the first wave of flowering, when you can cut even green cuttings that are in the initial stage of lignification. Planting of semi-woody cuttings of ground roses produced from the second half of June to the end of July. In the conditions of the Moscow region, grafting should be completed no later than July 15. Planting of woody cuttings harvested from the fall is carried out in March — April in the greenhouse on the shelves or in pots on the window. It is also possible planting cuttings in open ground in September.

Procurement of cuttings of roses for breeding

Rooting can be carried out with semi-woody summer and woody autumn cuttings. Semilignified summer cuttings are best suited, as they manage to take root and prepare for winter better than cuttings of a later cut.

Semi-woody rose cuttings

Semi-lumbering cuttings 4–6 mm thick are cut from the middle part of the shoot from healthy bushes, during the budding of the plants, when the bases of the shoots begin to woody. When bending such cuttings heard characteristic crackling. You can also cut a long shoot with a bud or a flower at the end of flowering, but such cuttings will root longer and worse.
  Very young green and not mature and the upper part of the shoot with a bud are unsuitable for grafting.

Escape rose this year

Cuttings cut from the middle part of the shoot

Cuttings are cut in length from 10 to 20-25 cm with 2-3 leaves and buds each. The upper cut horizontal make 5-10 mm above the top sheet.

An incision is made 10 mm above the upper kidney.

The lower cut is made at an angle of 45 degrees, retreating from the kidney by 2–3 cm, since nutrients are concentrated in this area not far from the kidney and this contributes to the rapid formation of the root system. Cuts make a sharp tool. They should be smooth, without torn edges. If the lower bud is in the base of the leaf, then the stalk is cut with 3 sheets, but the lower leaf is cut, leaving part of the stem. In this case, you also get a stalk with 2 leaves. The remaining leaves of 5 leaves are left by 2-3 to reduce evaporation of moisture and these leaves are shortened to half their length to reduce evaporation. All spikes are removed.

Lignified cuttings of roses

Lignified cuttings harvested in late autumn when pruning roses. If the winter was warm and the roses did not freeze, cuttings from the bushes can be cut in the spring.

  1. Storing them until spring, followed by rooting in a dirt greenhouse (graft)
  2. Landing in the fall
  3. Rooting cuttings in a pot indoors

The cutting should have 5-8 eyes and a thickness of 3-5 mm. Cut it out of the middle part of the shoot by the same rules as semi-lignified cuttings.

Storing rose cuttings until spring

The best storage conditions for cuttings in winter are in a dry ventilated basement or cellar with a temperature of 1-3 ° C and air humidity of 65-70%. It is also possible to store it on the lower shelves of the refrigerator or buried in the soil to a sufficient depth (below the level of soil freezing). Seedlings are dripped in an inclined position in boxes with wet sand.
  A multiple option would be to treat the lower ends of the cuttings with one of the above-mentioned root formation stimulants, place them in peat, then in polyethylene and store them in a refrigerator or in a basement. In winter, callus and small roots form on the cuttings.

Treatment of cuttings growth regulators

The use of growth stimulants will help accelerate rooting and improve the survival rate of cuttings. For example, the use of Zircon increases survival rate and the yield of seedlings 1.1-1.5 times.

As a stimulating drug, you can use:

  1. heteroauxin (indole acetic acid, IAA) - 10-20 g / l (2 tablets per 1 l of water);
  2. rootin (indolylbutyric acid, IMC) - 15-30 g / l;
  3. naphthylacetic acid (NUA) - 10-20 g / l;
  4. epin - 0.25 ml / 1 l of water;
  5. zircon (IMC) - 0.1 mg / l;
  6. honey solution

The lower sections of the cuttings are immersed in the solution and left in a cool place for 12-24 hours (read the instructions for the specific stimulator).


Multiple variants of cut cuttings of roses




Planting and rooting cuttings of roses

In plastic bag

If it is necessary to root a small number of cuttings (10-15 pcs.), Then this can be done with an ordinary plastic bag. Chopped cuttings are disinfected in a solution of boric acid (20 g / l of water) or potassium permanganate (0.5 g / l), immersing them whole for 2-3 minutes. In the package put a sheet of paper for shading from the sun, then another package. Peat moss or fibrous neutral peat is poured into it with a layer of 3-4 cm. Pre-peat is moistened with aloe solution (1 part aloe and 9 parts water). The cuttings are placed in the lower ends of the substrate. The bag is inflated, tightly closed and hung in a warm room on a sunny window. Do not open and do not add water.

After 7-10 days callus is formed in the cuttings, in another two weeks - roots. The cuttings do not root at the same time, some quickly give callus and roots, others rooting slowly. 3-4 weeks after grafting, they are checked. Those plants that gave a good root system, planted in pots and covered with glass jars. Not rooted cuttings again placed in the package, again inflated and incubated for another two weeks, then planted in pots. When the cuttings go into growth they adapt to the soil in the goshka, they are trained to room air, lifting the cans, first by an hour, with a gradual increase in time. A week later, the bank is removed.

In the open ground

For planting summer semi-woody cuttings in the ground choose an open area with shading during the hottest hours of the day, and better throughout the day.

For rooting cuttings make special ridge. As a nutrient mixture used:

  1. sod soil - 4 parts
  2. leaf ground - 1 hour
  3. sand - 1 h
  4. humus (or sour peat) - 2 hours
  5. 0.5 cups wood ash per bucket mix

The mixture is poured into shallow trenches (15 cm), coarse-grained clean river sand is poured on top with a layer of 2-3 cm or a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1). Top shed strong solution of potassium permanganate.

The cuttings are planted at the level of the lower eye (2 or 3) (to a depth of 1-1.5 cm), leaving it above the surface, at an angle of 45 degrees. The distance between the cuttings is 5-10 cm. The cutting should not be in contact with the soil under the sand.

After landing on the ridge set the frames made of metal wire or wooden slats, and watered. After watering on the frame, strengthen the plastic film or lutrasil so that the cuttings are completely closed. The edges of the film are fixed. The minitling should be closed tightly enough so that the water does not evaporate and the cuttings do not need to be constantly watered.

If there are few cuttings, they are simply covered each separately with a glass jar or plastic bottle halves.
  All constructions are artificially shaded, if it was not possible to find a shaded place. From a strong increase in temperature under the action of the sun, the cuttings may die.

The first days of cuttings are sprayed several times a day with water (5-6 times on sunny hot days and 2-3 times in overcast). The sand should be constantly wet. After it is enough to check and water the cuttings once a week, especially if the cuttings are located in the shade during the whole day.

The first roots should appear 2-3 weeks after the planting of cuttings in the ground. A month after planting, they begin to harden the cuttings, removing the film of the greenhouse for several hours. Finally remove the shelter in 10-15 days from the start of hardening. In the summer, cuttings 1 time in 2 weeks are fed with nitrogen fertilizers (15-20 g of ammonium nitrate or urea per 1 bucket of water). The most difficult for such roses is the first wintering. For the winter, it is better to cover the stalk with spruce leaves and lutrasil in several layers.

The process of forming roots in cuttings of roses

Also cuttings with two eyes can be planted in the fall (better in September) directly into the ground. By spring, they develop good influxes of callus, and then the root system. The soil is prepared in the same way as for rooting summer cuttings. Planted cuttings and cover them with a film in the same way as during the summer rooting. As the roots are formed, the film is opened to air the cuttings. As the first frost approaches, the film is again lowered at the ends of the frame, and when the temperature drops to -20 degrees, reed mats are placed on the film again. The chances of cuttings taking root with this method are much lower.

In the greenhouse

Cuttings are planted in the greenhouse in mid-March - early April.

Containers with cuttings are placed on a rack in high boxes or pots with lower heating and drainage holes. 2-3 cm of drainage (gravel) and 10 cm of soil mixture are poured at the bottom. The mixture is prepared from turf land, well-rotted humus, peat and sand in equal proportions. It is desirable to steam or shed a strong solution of potassium permanganate. Top poured calcined clean river sand or a mixture of sand and peat with a layer of 3-4 cm.


The cuttings are planted to a depth of 1-1.5 cm (up to the kidney). The leaves of neighboring cuttings should not obscure each other. Planted cuttings are either covered with glass jars each, or a small greenhouse is built above them so that high humidity is around the cuttings.

Planted rose cuttings cover to maintain high humidity around them

Optimal conditions for rooting cuttings in the greenhouse:

  • temperature - 22-25 ° C;
  • air humidity - 95–100%;
  • diffused light (sunlight should not fall on the cuttings).

The first 2 weeks prunes prunes and sprays up to 10 times a day on warm sunny days and 2-3 times on cloudy. On the leaves should always be a thin film of water. For those who grow a large number of cuttings (for sale) it is better to purchase and use fogging and sprinkler plants.


Rooting cuttings of roses requires high humidity. On the leaves should always be a film of water.

Rotted cuttings and fallen leaves are periodically removed. After 20-25 days, the cuttings take root and the number of sprays is reduced, the shading is removed, the greenhouse is regularly aired. The cuttings are ready for transplanting at the end of May in the southern regions and at the beginning of June in the more northern ones. Depending on the weather conditions, the bushes are covered.

Rooting in water

The prepared semi-woody cuttings are placed in the water poured into the jar, immersing only the lower part of the cuttings. Water should be cool and always boiled. Bank put in a shaded place. Water is changed every 1-2 days. After 2-3 weeks callus will appear at the ends of the cutting. in a week, the beginnings of roots will appear. After that, the cuttings can be planted in open ground or in pots with a nutrient substrate. At first, seedlings should be covered with glass jars, scraps of plastic bottles or microtunnels should be constructed. Also, they should be sprayed 1-2 times a day with clean water. Rooted cuttings of summer terms of cuttings cannot serve as a full-fledged planting material for autumn planting in the ground. The cuttings at the age of 3-4 months are still dominated by watery roots in the form of a thick lobe, they are sensitive to an excess of moisture, to insignificant frosts (-5 ...- 7 ° С), and abrupt temperature changes. Rooted cuttings during the first autumn-winter season must be maintained in the most favorable conditions for them. The best storage conditions for cuttings are a moderately cold, dry room (basement, greenhouse). A small freezing of plants (1-2 days) has a beneficial effect on their further development. Then the plants are placed in the basement, where throughout the winter the temperature is maintained from 0 to 5 ° C. Keeping rooted cuttings in a cold greenhouse gives the best results. At a temperature of 1-3 ° and minimal watering, the plants almost completely stop growing, although most of them do not shed their leaves. In the first decade of May, plants can be planted in the ground at a permanent place.

Grow well, bloom and overwinter own-rooted roses only on drained, deeply cultivated (50-60 cm), light, humus-rich soils with a low level of standing groundwater (not higher than 1 m). Heavy, clay, poorly warmed soils are not suitable for the culture of own-rooted roses, especially varieties from the Hybrid tea group. The result of wintering of own-rooted roses in an open field is affected not so much by low temperatures, as by an excess of moisture in the soil in autumn and spring. Often, well-wintered plants die off in the spring due to soaking and blotting out, especially if there is no runoff at the site, and winter shelter is not removed from roses for a long time.

Korne own annual saplings of many cold-resistant park roses from the groups: Spinozissima, Alba, Luteya, Centifolnye, Mokhovye, French and others are weakly resistant during the first year of culture. Mass lunge of plants after planting in the ground is due to the fact that the cuttings of many park roses root slowly and form a stable root system. By the time of planting in the ground at a permanent place in the annual saplings of park roses there is almost no above-ground growth; isolated weak roots die off with an excess of moisture in the soil, drying, light frost, and so on. Taking into account these peculiarities, rooted cuttings of park roses are recommended to grow for two years under the most favorable conditions. The exception is the hybrids of rose Rugoza. The representatives of this group of roses annual rooted cuttings have a well-developed stable root system and quite strong above-ground growth.

Self-cultivation of flowers such as roses in their area is a very interesting and attention-seeking activity, which can be done in two ways: grafting and grafting. The first method is considered to be the simplest, and it is carried out in the time period from April to May or from June to July, since it is at this time that the buds of the mother bushes are colored. By the way, in the fall you can also do cuttings of roses - time is also considered acceptable.

This method of reproduction of this wonderful flower has its advantages over the grafting, among which it is worth highlighting the following:

  • in plants obtained by this method, root shoots are not formed (this definitely simplifies the process of caring for the flower);
  • simplicity in obtaining planting material, which makes it possible to reproduce even roses taken from a regular bouquet without any problems;
  • thanks to this method of breeding roses are much more durable than grafted.

However, this method is not deprived of the disadvantages, among which is the rather difficult tolerance of the first winter, since the plant does not have time to increase the large root system over the summer. For this reason, the first wintering flower better to arrange in the cellar.

The cuttings of roses in the summer

Here you should take a responsible approach to all the details, starting with the choice of soil and ending with the creation of conditions for the storage of cuttings. Each sub-item should be considered in detail:

  1. Selection of soil for breeding roses in the summer. Specialists in this field note that the ground should be relatively light, be sure to pass air. Sod or leaf earth with the addition of sand as well as humus will best manifest itself. The approximate composition of the soil is turfy type of land: turfy ground (2 parts), leafy ground (1 part), sand (1 part). On top of the mixture, sand from the river is added in the washed form to a height of 3.5 cm. This will serve as an excellent neutral environment, provide air and moisture access to the handle, which, in turn, will help the roots in the lower section to develop faster.
  2. Determination with breeding dates of roses with green cuttings. Experienced florists point out that June-July is the best time for roses to breed, that is, the period before and in time for flowering. For the purpose of grafting, shoots are used when there are drop-down buds on them.
  3. Proper preparation of cuttings. The escape, on which the axillary buds have already formed, and it is ready for growth, is carefully cut off. Cuts of cuttings are made of it (each should have about 2-3 pieces). The uppermost section is 2.5 cm above the kidney, and the lowest section is immediately below it. To eliminate the possibility of injury to tissues, it is necessary to use sharply honed tools in the work. The next step is to remove the lower leaves and shorten the upper leaves by exactly half. By the way, before planting, the lower sections are additionally processed by growth substances, such as Epin, Heteroauxin, etc. If this is not done, the result will be noticeably worse.
  4. Proper fit. When cuttings of roses occur, the processes must be planted into the ground to a depth of about 2 cm, if planted deeper, the rooting process will slow down. Distributing the distance between the rows, ideally stop at 10 cm, between the pits - 8 cm.
  5. Creating conditions for rooting. The main condition for the breeding of roses in the summer is considered temperature. Cuttings must be maintained in the greenhouse for the first 15–20 days after disembarkation and immediately prior to their rooting. Sprouts during this period should receive a sufficient amount of moisture, light and heat. Water the soil should be in moderate quantities (the main thing - do not overdo it, otherwise it may begin the process of decay). However, a high level of humidity (about 80%) should be kept in the greenhouse so that the leaves are regularly covered with droplets. To ensure this, the cuttings must be constantly sprayed from the spray (besides the main irrigation). Until rooting has occurred, the greenhouse should be covered (it opens only during the spraying process). Since cuttings can easily get burned under the scorching sun, it is better to shade them a little.

When the cuttings are rooted, they must be transplanted into small pots with a diameter of up to 11 cm in the ground with a “lightweight formula.” It is easy enough to prepare such land: you should mix 1/3 of sod land, 1.3 sheet earth and 1/3 of river sand. Filled pots are sent to the greenhouse, where they should be half buried in the ground.

  1. Creating ideal conditions for storing cuttings in the winter season. According to experienced florists, the best conditions for storing cuttings in winter are as follows:
  • dry cellar / basement with good ventilation;
  • temperature ranges from 1 to 3 degrees;
  • air humidity - at the level of 65-70%;
  • during storage saplings are dropping in an inclined position in specially designated boxes for this purpose with moistened sand.

In addition to the main method of breeding roses in the summer, namely cuttings, there is another very interesting method - growing flowers from cuttings under a can. Details of growing in this way are described below.

Growing flowers from cuttings under a can

Cuttings during reproduction using this method should be prepared in the same way as the previous method: make 2-3 internodes, remove the bottom leaves completely, cut the top leaves exactly half.

Choosing a place in the garden for disembarkation, you need to stay on where there is no direct sunlight. Fully in the shade it is also impossible to plant seedlings, as the roses will live in the chosen place until next year under a can, and for full development they need a sufficient amount of light.

In order for grafting and rooting to occur successfully, it is necessary to ensure the light structure of the earth and good air permeability (you can add sand to it and dig it up well).

The cuttings are stuck into the ground, while their lower buds tilt and deepen slightly. Up to three cuttings can be placed under one jar; they should be watered abundantly and covered with a conventional three-liter jar. Now it remains only to water the land around the can.

I want to draw the attention of those who grow these beautiful flowers to the fact that cutting the roses is quite simple and effective for their reproduction. Especially when taking into account the individual nuances that I have noticed over many years of practice. Therefore, they will be discussed.

The cuttings begin, as a rule, after the holiday of March 8 and continue until mid-October. It is engraved both from the bouquet and from the bush when the flower begins to fade. In the water with a bouquet you need to add a little honey as a stimulant. A few days later, when flowers begin to wither, you can proceed to grafting to continue to get rose bushes.

It is possible to plant roses on your own plot in two ways: by grafting or cutting. The easiest way is to breed roses by cuttings. It is better to spend it in April-May or in June-July, when buds are stained on the mother bushes. In addition, in the fall, when pruning plants for the winter, it is also possible to start cutting roses. It is necessary to say a few words about the advantages of this method of reproduction before vaccination. Obtained with the help of plants do not form root shoots, which greatly simplifies the care. In the southern regions they winter better, but even when the aboveground part freezes, they are restored from dormant buds on the roots. You should also consider the ease of obtaining planting material. After all, even roses from a bouquet can be propagated this way. Another big advantage of this method of reproduction is that own-rooted roses are much more durable than grafted. There is perhaps only one of the shortcomings: the rooted cuttings hibernate badly in the first winter. This is because in one summer a young plant does not have time to build up a sufficiently powerful root system. Therefore, the first winter plants better to winter in the cellar.

What varieties of roses can be grafted?

All grades of ground cover and miniature roses, polyanthic and climbing roses with small flowers are ideal for grafting. The survival rate of cuttings of floribunda roses is about 50% of the total number of planted plants.

Difficult grafts are large-flowered climbing roses, park and hybrid tea varieties. When grafting these plants can fail, the yield of rooted cuttings is extremely small.

How to get a cutting?

Above the top leaves of the shoot with a flower is cut at a height of 2−3 mm. Slice oblique, in the opposite direction from the leaflet. We get a rose stalk. Wound over the top leaf littered with garden pitch. Three leaflets are left in the upper part of the cutting, below two, and even lower - three. Even lower, the fourth and fifth leaf, cut with a sharp knife, so as not to injure the live bait.

Below the fifth sheet, you need to make an oblique cut in the opposite direction from the kidney, slightly touching the node (the place of concentration of trace elements). As a stimulant for better rooting of the cuttings, you can use aloe leaf juice. It is advisable to take leaves of two years old and older. Sokom aloe abundantly grease the part of the cutting, which will be placed in the ground.

Aloe juice is an excellent stimulator of root bud formation.

When transplanting plants, the damaged root system can also be covered with aloe juice, which has a positive effect on the development of transplanted bushes.

Plastic bottle with a capacity of at least 2−5 l, cut off the neck, fill with a mixture of peat and sod land in the same proportions, adding also sand to improve the physical properties of the soil mixture.

Having made a hole with a sprig in the soil mixture in the bottle, insert a cutting into it, but so that its bottom sheet does not touch the soil mixture. All this abundantly pour infusion of mullein (1:15) or infusion of chicken manure (1:20), but not farmer. Cover the stalk with a cut plastic bottle.


Feeding and care

Fertilizing infusion of nettle is considered irreplaceable. Infusion can be prepared as follows: chop the nettle before it blooms, then grind. Fill the filled container (but not metal) with water so that this mass of fermentation and nettle leaves dissolve in water. Then the infusion is poured into a dish and closed in a dark place. Mass that is not dissolved, can be used for mulching. Before use, add 0.5 liters of the infusion to 10 liters of water.

The next watering should be carried out with water, taking into account the temperature conditions, but not earlier than in 6–7 days, maintaining moderate humidity. After all, because of the excess moisture, the cuttings become covered with mold and die.

Cutting from the bushes

The cuttings of the cut branches from the bushes are performed using the same technology as the bouquet, except that in most cases this is done directly on the spot in the soil where the rose bush will be planted. This is much better than grafting in the tank, because you do not need to replant the plant. The quality of the grafting performed is already noticeable on the 7th – 8th day: if the petals have not changed their original color, then you are on the right track.

30 days after grafting, the plastic container is removed and the rosebush is re-fed, again with nettle extract. When grafting in March, rooted roses produce the first color in June.

In cutting recommendations, it is usually advised to use both cuttings of semi-aged summer cuttings and autumnal stiff shoots. Cuttings cut from the middle part of the shoot after the first flowering. In the forest-steppe zone, this is most often the second decade of July.

It should be noted that not all varieties of roses equally propagated by cutting. According to statistics, tea-hybrid rooted at 20−40%, repairman at 6−15%. Due to the cutting technology provided and the performance of these works, taking into account the phases of the Moon and the signs of the Zodiac, the successful result is at least 90%.

Care for root roses is facilitated by the fact that no wild growth is formed. Planted roses for the winter can not cover, but to carry out autumn dressing and pruning to the stiffened vine necessarily!

Detailed technology of harvesting grassy cuttings

Like other woody plants, roses better root when the wood cuttings are still quite soft. Proceeding from this, it is best to practice cutting the roses at home when the buds begin to color on the young shoots before flowering. It is then that the state of the escape from grassy to lignified occurs. With a later cutting of cuttings, the percentage of rooting decreases, and rooting itself lasts longer. The time of grafting on open ground is determined individually, depending on the local climate, as well as the variety of roses.

Roses root better when the wood cuttings are still quite soft

The most successful are roses from cuttings that are not too thick, even thin. Vigorous shoots with a large core not only take root worse, but in most cases rot when transplanted. Unnecessarily young shoots take root very slowly, not having enough time to develop until autumn, and as a result such cuttings cannot stand winter.

If you are interested in the reproduction of roses, presented in your flower garden in single copies, you can cut the cuttings on one bud. In other cases, the best option is to cut into three buds, because of the short cuttings for the first year grow weak plants that overwinter worse.

Preparation of cuttings is as follows:

  • right below the bud, retreating 1.5 mm, make a lower cut of the future cutting, slightly obliquely;
  • cut the upper section in a straight line 1 cm above the kidney;
  • remove the lower leaves and shorten the upper leaves by a third to prevent the shoots from drying out;
  • remove all thorns;
  • tie the sliced ​​cuttings into bundles and place them for a day in water or in a special solution to accelerate the formation of roots.

The lack of rooting in water is that the roots do not have enough oxygen to develop

Then you can put the cuttings on rooting in boiled cold water, changing it every two days. After 15–20 days, an embryo of the roots should form in the form of a white ball — in this state, the plant can be transplanted immediately to the open ground or to the pot with the earth, and you can wait another week until the real roots appear. The lack of rooting in the water is that the roots do not have enough oxygen for development, from which the cuttings can simply rot. It is better to choose a more reliable way, how to grow a rose from a cutting, placing the cut shoots directly into the prepared soil.

Planting roses cuttings is a simpler and more reliable method of breeding than with seeds or grafting. It is better to do this in spring, from April to June, or in autumn, during trimming of bushes for the winter. And, using a purchased or presented bouquet, grafting can be done at another time.

Growing roses from cuttings has its advantages:

  • the longevity of life and flowering period;
  • do not reborn in the wild;
  • adapt well to the environment;
  • not demanding on the soil.

There is a drawback: overwintering rooted cuttings is hard. This is due to the fact that during the autumn-summer period a rather powerful rhizome does not grow, therefore, in the first winter, the rose is dug out and placed in the cellar (if the temperature in it does not fall below minus 5 degrees Celsius) or is stored in a house in a dry cool place.

Cutting cuttings

Propagation of roses by cuttings is one of the most popular and simple methods of breeding, the main thing in this procedure is to prepare them correctly. Choose the bushes of this year that have recently completed flowering or are about to bloom. If the spikes are easily removed, this is a sign of their suitability.

Use the middle part of the shoot, remove the spikes and lower leaves.

It is recommended to cut branches in the evening or early in the morning. Cut 15-centimeter lengths with 2-3 knots (pairs of leaves) and the same number of buds. To do this, use a clean and sharp tool so that the branches are not injured.

Sections must be made obliquely. Make one immediately below the extreme lower node, and the other - a couple of centimeters higher than the top one. To prevent evaporation of moisture, shorten the leaves by a third.

Rooting

To ensure that the rooting of the cuttings of roses is successful, lower them into any of the root growth stimulants:

  • Epin;
  • Cornevin;
  • Heteroauxin.

You can prepare a stimulating liquid for root growth on your own, using a folk method: dissolve honey (1/2 teaspoon) in 200 g of water. In the solution, the cuttings are kept for three days to two weeks, as the root system develops depending on the room temperature.

Soil preparation

The soil is prepared in proportion: two parts of the black soil with one sod and sand. Dug holes are pre-filled with a 3-5% solution of potassium permanganate.

After planting, it is necessary to mulch with a three-centimeter layer of sand: it is better to use the river, as it differs by a large dispersion.

Care after planting in open ground

After planting the cuttings in the ground, they are covered with glass jars to create a greenhouse effect. Two weeks later, for the purpose of quenching, the container is temporarily removed, and after a while - completely removed.

Watering is not too intense, maintaining a light moisture of the soil and watching the condensate on the walls of the vessel, since supersaturation with moisture can lead to rotting.

If in the process of growth on young shoots buds are formed, they must be pinched so that the power of the plant is spent not on flowering, but on the development of rhizomes.

Propagation of roses cuttings in the summer

Most often, roses are planted in the summer, in June, as this is the most favorable period for the development of the root system. There are several ways to plant cuttings of roses.

Traditional breeding

Prepared cuttings planted at an inclination of 45 degrees. The lower bud deepen in the ground. Compact sand and pour, cover with banks. At daytime temperatures of no less than plus 25, and at night - no less than 18 degrees. Celsius, about a month later, the bud will sprout. By the end of the summer new shoots reached 30-40 centimeters in length.

In the southern regions, due to the dry summer and high temperatures, the rooting of roses by cuttings is best carried out in the autumn. As the source material, you can use branches that were removed during the forming pruning of rose bushes. Dig up the prepared cuttings in the garden. Cover with cut plastic bottles, and top with leaves.

The reproduction of roses in potatoes

One of the simple methods of breeding - planting roses cuttings in potatoes. This allows the roots to retain moisture during the dry season and nourishes them with starch.

Rooting cuttings of roses in potatoes is made in the hole dug to a depth of 15 cm. The landing site must be selected based on the following criteria:

  • not blown by the winds;
  • well lit;
  • not completely shaded;
  • not exposed to direct sunlight for a long time.

Pour the sand in a deepening five-centimeter layer. Prepare cuttings 20 cm long, free them from thorns and leaves. Select medium-sized potatoes, remove their eyes.

Make holes in the roots, insert the cuttings in them and stick them into the trench at a distance of 15 cm from each other, leaving a third of them on top. Place the jars on top. Water periodically (once in 3-5 days), and once a week to feed with carbohydrates, pamper syrup by dissolving a spoonful of sugar in a glass of water.

Growing roses from cuttings from a bouquet is effective if they grew in domestic nurseries. This is due to the fact that foreign specimens are treated with preservatives before shipment, so they will not be able to root.

Rooting roses from a bouquet at home requires compliance with the following rules:

  • use fresh flowers;
  • the stem must be woody;
  • choose a stalk of medium thickness, with buds above and below.

From the stems remove flowers, buds, thorns, cut the lower leaves. Cut them into 15-30 cm and keep in distilled water, which I change every other day. After the roots, plant in the ground, covered with a jar.

Reproduction of a climbing rose cuttings has its own characteristics. In September, prepare cuttings of 20 cm. Make sure that they have 3-4 buds. You can root them in the ground or in the water.

If you use water, boil it to kill the bacteria in order to prevent possible decay of the appearing roots. The roots develop to the required length in 20 or 30 days, after which the cuttings should be transplanted into a pot, look after them, just like an ordinary indoor plant.

If it lands in the ground, the roots usually do not rot. Cover the pot and make a hole. Fill it with sand, insert a cutting and place a jar on top, periodically check for moisture. Putting the pot on the window, cover the jar with a cloth to shade it.

Roses reproduction by cuttings in unconventional ways

There are unusual breeding options for these colors, in addition to those described above.

In the package

Growing roses at home from cuttings is possible in a tight polyethylene bag. It is pre-laid ground. Instead, you can use moss moistened with aloe juice diluted with water (the ratio of water and juice is 9: 1).

The cuttings are placed in the lower cut in the substrate. After that the bag is inflated. It is tied up and hung to the window. The increased humidity inside, due to which fog is formed, contributes to the growth of roots, the first of which will appear in a month.

Burrito Method

Perhaps growing roses from cuttings at home in this way will not give 100% of the result, but it is easy to try.

Wrap the cuttings of roots with any growth promoter with a damp newspaper, put them in a bag and leave in a dark warm place. After two weeks, check them out. In some varieties during this time, roots can already be formed.

Trannua method

Breeding roses from cuttings at home by the Trannua method is that the stem, which will be used for propagation, takes the maximum amount of starch from the leaves.

In summer, when the plants ottsvetut, cut off small leaves and wilted flowers in the selected branches. When you see the buds swelling down the branches, this means that the bush is preparing to continue the vegetative process. Therefore, before the appearance of the leaves, cut the cuttings by 20 cm. Planted several pieces at once (5-7) at a time, inclined at 45 degrees. Cover them with plastic or glass jars of 5 liters. Do not forget to water the soil.

Total

Even if you have never grown flowers, try reproducing roses with cuttings at home using any of the above options. The result will not be long in coming, and by next season you will be able to enjoy the view of a beautiful shrubbery, and eventually you will get a whole rose garden, turning your garden into a fragrantly scented nook for relaxing.