Making the LED lamp for seedlings

At the moment, serious firms are not engaged in lighting

For seedlings. It is unprofitable for them due to low demand and high cost of LEDs. Therefore, such products are produced by semi-handicraft in small quantities.

And this leads to the fact that, at best, the price is greatly overestimated, and at

The worst - the lamps do not correspond to the "vegetable" purpose, or

Simply - fake. At the same time they will look quite

Respectably.

In the near future, it is hardly worth hoping that the situation is fundamentally

Will change. So beautiful boxes will be sold with hundreds of indicator LEDs stuck in them, "mowing" for vegetable ones. Grow under them will, but not as it should.

And, if you realize that you are being offered at a price that is inappropriate

Goods - then make the production yourself. It will cost you many times.

Cheaper and definitely like your rastyushkam.

Before considering the technology of manufacturing such a lamp,

It should be determined for what it is intended:

The purpose of the lamp - lighting of seedlings, full coverage of seedlings without

Light from windows, lighting for a full cycle of cultivation. It defines it

Power, number and ratio of LEDs in color.

Where will he stand - in the rack, on the windowsill, in the greenhouse, etc. it

Defines its design.

What is the size of the illuminated area. It also determines the size of the lamp and its power.

To make a lamp for seedlings of plants, you will need:

1. LEDs up to 1W, blue (440nm) and red (660nm). In brackets

The specified wavelength of light, which determines the "vegetable" purpose

LED. Today there are more powerful LEDs. They are declared as 3 watt, but at a current of 750mA they are nothing more than two watts. This is how lucky the seller.
  They are hard to find? - then read the article "budget lamp" and its continuation

2. Any aluminum profile: corner, channel, tavr, strips, sheets, etc. -

Aluminum bowls also fit. Aluminum is needed as a heat-conducting

Material. Copper is much better, but where to get it!

3. Insulated installation wire of a small section - 0.2-0.5 sq.m.mm

4. Thermal grease or hot melt glue.

5. Mains wire with plug

6. Power supply - there are a lot of options here, so we will consider it below.

Metal, file, drill or screwdriver, zaklepochnik, screwdrivers.

The manufacturing steps are as follows:

Calculation of the required number of LEDs.

Elaboration of the design of the frame of the lamp.

Manufacturing frame.

Acquisition of the specified number of LEDs.

Selection of the power source of LEDs.

Installation of LEDs on the frame.

Soldering LEDs to the circuit.

Check the completed installation.

Check the performance of the lamp.

Safe installation of power supply.

We are happy with the result.

Calculation of the required number of LEDs

Price - the only drawback of LEDs. And for the "vegetable"

Special. This is due to the fact that the need for "plant" is much less

Than in white LEDs for lighting. The smaller batch produced -

The more expensive copy.

But anyway, these LEDs should not cost more than 50p per piece,

So look for. They are constantly getting cheaper. The cheapest to buy them on

Auction ebay.com Type in the search bar "led 1W 660nm" - and you will see hundreds

Offers The quality is strictly monitored there ..

The total amount depends on the area of \u200b\u200byour containers, pots and

Cups. On   one square meter  enough seedlings   30-50 watts  LED light

Power. That is, 30-50 pieces of LEDs for 1W. It is provided that you

Only need   light up  seedlings in the presence of daylight. It is experienced

Windows - the more you need to increase this rate.

Concepts brute force in this case is not. More is better. How much to buy -

Decide for yourself.

While the seedlings are small, the minimum power is enough for them, but with increasing

Stalk and leaves need for light increases. And rastyushki also different in

Dimensions. If the lamp is universal, for any, then it should be

Power reserve. If only for petunias, then 40W / sq.m is enough.

Let's look at a specific example..

If you have a window sill with a length of 1.5 m and a width of 0.3 m - its area is 0.45 sq. M.

It means that 30-40 / 2 \u003d 15-20pcs is enough to illuminate the seedlings.

1. With confidence that   transplanting will occur on timea combination

red-blue  select 2:1 .

2. If you   not sure about the timing  - better to use   more blue  right up

Before 1 :2 or even 1:1 that will allow you to reach the best conditions for longer. (this is most relevant for tomatoes, as it affects future yields)

So we get:

On the first condition 11 red and 4 blue - only 15 pieces.

According to the second condition, 8 red and 7 blue. It is more reasonable to buy at the maximum:

11 red (660 nm) and 7 blue (440 nm) + margin \u003d 0 pieces (1000rub).

Elaboration of the design of the frame of the lamp and the manufacture of the frame.

The convenience of the LEDs is that you can arrange them in your own way.
discretion over the illuminated area. If the width of the illuminated area
  less than 250mm, then you can mount the LEDs on one "line".
  In our example, 0.3m \u003d 300mm, then we do in two lines to ensure
  uniformity of illumination of the entire area. For my 400mm shelves I take three
  rulers.
  The ruler is a piece of aluminum profile with a length of 100mm less than the length
  window sill. For our example, it will be 140cm. Mark out two lines like this
  that on them it is reasonable settled down 15 light-emitting diodes (it would be more convenient 16 pieces, but
  we save).

Remember that each LED emits a light cone with an angle of 70-120
  degrees, so spaced apart at such a distance that these
  the projections of the cones overlapped each other a little.
  The frame is needed in order to hold the rulers together.
  The basic requirement for the frame on which the LEDs and
  connecting wires - stiffness. At the same time, when selecting a profile for
  ruler, we must take into account the area of \u200b\u200bheat removal. This will be discussed later.
  For our window sill   1.5 m long  we calculated the number of LEDs:
  According to the first condition you need 11 red and 4 blue.
  According to the second condition, you need 8 red and 7 blue. Only 15 pieces, but we decided to
two  lines have - let it be 16 pieces.
  So for each line we need to evenly install 8 pieces.
  LEDs.

Mark it first on paper, and then on a real profile. If the window sill
  1.5 m, then the length of the lamp take 1400mm, divide by 8 \u003d 75mm. Means
  the distance between the LEDs will be 75mm. All is ready!
  Now back to the question of choosing the profile for the ruler.
For normal heat removal  with each power LED   1 watt
  surface area required   25 sq. Cm.
  Having the length of the zone of the location of one LED 7.5 cm, we calculate its width:
  25 / 7.5 \u003d 3.3 cm. This means that the width of our profile in   expanded form, not
  should be less than 35mm. for example, an aluminum corner of 25 x 25 if
  expand width, it turns out 50mm. Fits, and with a margin - this is good.
  The thickness of the metal for heat transfer does not play a special role, not necessarily
  spend money on thick profiles - they are expensive. But the second condition is strength
  - stiffness.

In our case, even the thinnest (1mm) corner will do. More convenient
  use for rulers U-shaped symmetric profile. He has a square
  always more than a corner.
  Mark the profile in length: from the edge 75/2 \u003d 37.5mm - the first LED, then
  through 75mm we make another 7 marks. High accuracy is not required.
In order not to damage the LEDs when the frame is turned over with the glow side down,
  it is desirable to provide along its edges stops with a height of at least 10 mm (above
  LED) On the photo of the three-luminaire luminaire
  squares:
  (do not pay attention to the interweaving of wires - this is an experimental
  option to switch the ratio between blue-red)
  So with the lamp frame clear. You can fasten two rulers to the frame with screws,
  I prefer the exhaust rivets. They quickly and easily fasten
  profiles

Installation of LEDs on the frame. soldering LEDs in the circuit.
  Once the frame is ready, proceed to the installation of LEDs. If a
  LEDs on the asterisks, it is necessary to drill for each LED by
  two mounting holes on the markup.
  When installing, do not forget about the uniform alternation of red and blue
  LEDs, according to the selected ratio between them.
  LEDs must be pressed to the profile for thermal contact. Great effort
  Aluminum does not allow, therefore, it is necessary to have a thermal compensating
  gasket The simplest "thermal pad" is a viscous thermal grease, which
  fills all the irregularities and due to the presence in its mass of copper particles well
  transfers heat from the LED to the ruler (profile). Methods of clamping
  There are many LEDs: screws, screws, rivets and a finger with hot glue.
Thermoglue "Alsil-5" or "Radial", lett attach LEDs without drilling and thermal paste -
  Smeared, pressed, held and ready. There is also
  There are various self-adhesive thermal tape, if you get it - good
  option.
  In the photo "riveted" LED. I also use 2.5mm screws,
  who screwed into the profile. (Not the most aesthetic option ... but not growing
  vs)
  Please note - the rivet head with a diameter of 3.2 mm had to be bitten
  side cutters so as not to touch the conductive pads. If you find
  2.4mm rivets, then it will not need to do.
  After mounting all the LEDs on the frame should be removed with a cotton swab
  excess thermal paste, extruded from under the asterisk. Please note: not
  Blur the silicone LED lenses. Cotton wool with alcohol will help in this.
  We start the soldering of the LED chain. There is a LED
  marking of polarity, we connect "+" one with "-" the following. Soldering iron is not
  more than 40W. Standard soldering technology - strip, tin, solder,
  wash soldering site from excess flux.
  Note: this is a laborious, but most effective option.
  In attachment is my first article of 2011.

Participant

The fifth season of growing seedlings under the lamps. The correct seedling is obtained in the apartment only if you finish lighting. Fighting the stretching of seedlings with cold is like bonsai (oppression of a plant). If as a hardening effect, it is possible before landing for several days (which is optional). The main thing from which the seedlings are drawn is the lack of lighting. In the phase of cotyledon leaves, you can highlight for 3 days without a break, when the first true leaves appear within 12-16 hours per day. You can completely on the arts. light (in the corner of the room, even in the basement). The electronic timer (into the socket) is programmed. Lamps as close to sprouts as possible. What is bright for us is dark for tomato. Each sprout in a separate glass is at least 045L. Under the lamps 60x60 (ordinary ceiling under the "Amstrong") at first about 30 cups. More space is required later. If you end up growing artificially you will have more lamps (and an electricity bill).

  • a guest

       At my house all the windows are north, the seedlings are placed under Flora lamps 4pcs, 36w each, the other part is on the window, those that are elongated under the lamp are weak, and on the window they are strong and the color has started to dial. I am in shock, it is snowing on the street, but they thought about to bloom, for about a month. I wanted to shove them into the greenhouse in May, now I removed them from the window under the lamp and lowered the temperature to slow down the growth. Do you think it will not hurt them?

  • Member since: Mar 14, 09 Messages: 13 Thanks: 13

    Participant

    Member since: Mar 14, 09 Messages: 13 Thanks: 13 Address: Belarus Vitebsk region.

       Before you advise something, you need to ask you a couple of clarifying questions, wait for an answer ..., time. They say "spring day year feeds." Maybe someone else will write. I will just briefly share the "experience" of using artificial light in growing seedlings. Something will answer your questions and "maybe someone else will say thanks."
       Temka one of the most important. Almost all men and women, gardeners do it in an apartment, they do it regularly ... it is described in book language - they make a race in the development and growth of plants. 50-65 days. This can be done well or as usual.
       Well means dosachivat fluorescent lamps. A power of 300-400 W per 1 square meter and even at the same time an acceptable level of light is provided only at a distance of no more than 20-30 centimeters! It is advisable to get as close as possible and not to burn 2-7 cm to the upper leaves! It is important!
    You can imagine how “dark” seedlings are just on the window in cloudy weather, on the north windows. With an objective measurement of the illumination in the room with instruments, we find that it does not at all match how the human eye perceives it. When light is 0.5-1m away from the window, the light level is halved; curtains, trees, a house against it, and unwashed windows also significantly deteriorate the life of the seedlings. The light from the window "one-sided" than in the podium with a transparent ceiling and walls, even there on cloudy days at the initial stage of growth dawned.

    About the lamp. (from literature) it is believed that plants absorb the entire spectrum of daylight sunlight with the exception of the far red area. The maximum absorption in the blue-violet 430 Nm chlorophyll A and 450 Nm chlorophyll B, another maximum in the red part is 660 Nm chlorophyll A and 650 Nm chlorophyll B (who is interested), the minimum absorption of green rays. The plot is two hills between them a depression (green rays) beyond the hill a depression to zero (far red light). Here are special lamps for aquariums and plants such as flora and others should be "sharpened" for the need of chlorophyll. Maybe the companies making the lamps and "conjured" over the phosphor, I suspect that this is more a marketing ploy. We need lamps for plants, here we have to buy, "a little" more expensive.
       IMPORTANT. Conventional fluorescent lamps create the desired light. I tried to determine which is better with a cold shade or with a warm one, honestly did not notice the difference. In greenhouses, cold light was successfully used before DRL, now sodium as with great efficiency is pinkish in light, pinkness is a feature of sodium salts glow.

    Keep in mind that when doshedivanii seedlings develop correctly compared with their peers accelerated. My planted in after March 10, almost all bloom after April 15-20! At the end of April, even early fruits are present in early ripening varieties. This is normal. If you are confused by the flowers and fruits that the plant is weakened tear off. It's easier. It is necessary to feed at each watering or through time. It is better to dilute the fertilizer strongly and often water it more than several times with a loading dose. Sprinkle with epin type brasinosteroids. Several times and before planting in the greenhouse. Hardened only if you want - a few days before the greenhouse. I think it is not necessary to do when growing. It is better to try to provide everything you need with young (as children) than to torture with cold (in an apartment how to do it).
    Planted usually when the threat of strong night frosts passes (they can be in the flesh before June 8), tomatoes tolerate frosts normally in contrast to peppers (they are damaged at -0.5 g). (from the literature) tomatoes after a strong freeze can and apparently survived but lose sharply in the future crop compared to peers who have not been subjected to this test. Usually the gardener cuts when it's time. On average, after May 10-15. (in the greenhouse). By the time of planting, the correct tomato seedlings should be 30 cm tall, 7-8 can have 9 true leaves and buds on the first flower brush. Usually after the 7th, and then flowers after 1-2 (on grade) tier. In pepper, the first flower (on branching) is desirable to remove in order to save strength for future development. It may even be necessary to ottpaynkovat (tk faster development with additional lighting). Good luck!

  • a guest

       [Well means dosachivayut fluorescent lamps. Power 300-400 W per 1m sq.
      Oleg, I just can not find what kind of lighting in suites or lumens give luminescent lamps. I read on one of the forums that there are 90lm.w LED bulbs, like luminescent bulbs, does everyone have 1 watt the same?
      If the same, then how much? Plants require between 500 and 3000 lux.

  • Member since: Mar 14, 09 Messages: 13 Thanks: 13

    Participant

    Member since: Mar 14, 09 Messages: 13 Thanks: 13 Address: Belarus Vitebsk region.

       In suites. In lumens it is written on the package with lamps. For example: 18 Wat-1200lm; 36W-2850lm; 58W-4000lm. A lumen is a unit of luminous flux in solid angle. Illumination can be measured with a photo-exponometer, I did it on a wave of interest a couple of years ago. For example, my photoexpononometer Sverdlovsk4, in the instructions there is a table how to determine the illumination and convert it into suites when measuring the light flux from a light source. The window is closed with a matte filter and is directed to the light source, it measures quite accurately. Than to search the network numbers, it is better to play around with the measurements yourself. It strongly depends, at times, on the distance and on the light source, you write that for plants it takes from 500 to 3000 lux. See for yourself the big difference. For tomatoes at the initial stage of growth of seedlings for example, you need 8000-10.000 lux! Even 5000 is generally a minimum. 500 - can for acceptable shade fern. I now do not remember the exact numbers (you can insert batteries and measure). I remember that it is so, at close range from lamps up to 8 cm as light from the sky from the north (not from the side of the sun) in clear sunny weather.

  • a guest

    Today, along with spam, this is the "LED phytolamp for plant lighting MT5070". Produces their master whale. Googled But always came across only fluorescent Osram. Has anyone bought / used LED? All the same, there will be a big savings when the light bulb works around the clock.

  • Posts: 601 Thanks: 746

    Construction Finisher

    Member since: 04/26/09 Messages: 601 Acknowledgments: 746 Address: Tver

       Messages 13 and 20 are the most conveniently disclosed topic.
      Regarding the LED - they have the wrong spectrum and they do not give enough light, at the moment the development of electrical engineering - they are not suitable.
      For seedlings at home, certainly the best OSRAM FLORA - but they need more than one thing - but two or three per box, this is optimal.
      Also suitable energy-saving lamps (with the usual cartridge) of the red and blue spectrum, depending on the stage of growth and plant species. But these lamps should be quite large wattage and there should be several.
      In large industrial greenhouses, lamps of the type DNAT or DNAZ are used at any stage of growth - the height and type of the reflector are regulated here.
      Lamps with a reflector (as for suspended ceilings with a mirror reflector) - although they are intended for plants, they are used very rarely - because give a strong heat flux and should be installed as high as possible, but at the same time the luminous flux is significantly lost when the lighting spot is increased.

    In general, when growing seedlings, you can use the most simple fluorescent lamps. Suppose there is not an optimal spectrum, but a very low price. In general, daylight gives sufficient coverage to the seedlings and it is not worth much to lengthen it - the seedlings are beautiful and growing so, the main thing is to provide a backlight - i.e. The lamp is located above and slightly behind the window and shines all day. The main thing is that the seedlings do not stretch much up. Well, of course, if the windows are to the south - there is no need for lighting.

    For many years I have been growing tomatoes and cucumbers on the balcony, as well as seedlings of tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage of various varieties for planting in the ground. But in my city apartment the balcony faces south and it is glazed. The backlight of the usual long (36 watts - 120 cm in length) fluorescent lamps located on the top and behind the plants - the seedlings become stunted and strong stems. Tomatoes and cucumbers go to the greenhouses, and partially to the open ground (previously under the film) - depending on the summer, the yield is comparable.

  • griznik said:

    So after all, how to choose the right lighting of the greenhouse - fluorescent lamps ?? Tell me please!

    A greenhouse fluorescent will not work. It will be necessary to place hundreds of lamps, hundreds of chokes and a bunch of wires. They will block your natural lighting completely, and it is extremely inconvenient to serve all this. Fluorescent seedlings only, in the apartment.
      And in the greenhouse - only gas-discharge. The most affordable and efficient sodium high pressure DNAT, DRIZ (with internal mirror reflector). At least 400 watts

  • Well means dosachivat fluorescent lamps. A power of 300-400 W per 1 square meter, and even so, an acceptable level of light is provided only at a distance of no more than 20-30 centimeters!

  • Member since: 12/20/09 Messages: 122 Thanks: 59

    I read about sodium lamps and realized that I was not ready to install them in an apartment. I saw this message and decided to check how many fluorescent lamps I need per square meter for highlighting the seedlings in the apartment. A pair of lamps 120 cm already have.
      Their power is 36 watts. The division got that at 83 cm width with this length you need to install 8 lamps. It turns out that the lamp should be placed at a distance of 10 cm from each other?

  • Member since: 03/31/09 Messages: 264 Thanks: 409

    Yes, they are put quite often. But much depends on the light that the seedlings will receive from the window. If the window is south, east - then you can somewhat reduce the number of lamps. Not 8, but 6. In addition, it is desirable to install a reflector above them if it is not in the luminaire. But the reflector will obscure the natural light. So a sodium watt at 250 would be best. Modern DNAT with electronic control gear are reliable, the service life is very long. The price is only that ... But once bought, it will be enough for a long time, and in winter you can have several peppers of pepper, for example, you can grow it only on artificial light.

  • Member since: 12/20/09 Messages: 122 Thanks: 59

    Yes, the fact is that lately very cloudy winters and even south windows do not give much light. Again, the window sills are narrow, so it is easier for me to place the seedlings on the table and set the backlight than to cling to the window.

    But it seemed to me from the first experience that even with more than 10 cm between the lamps, the light from the neighboring lamps covers the space (I don’t know if it was clear) and this lamp placement frequency is excessive.

    But sodium lamps something dumb to put in the apartment. And suddenly jerk? The voltage in our network jumps so that ordinary incandescent bulbs burn out at times. Yes, and costs, of course, considerable.

    Yes, and the pepper under the DNAT will be "golden"

    If it is more convenient on the table, then the light from the window can be ignored. About the overlap of space - I confess, I did not quite understand this phrase. I meant that the reflector will return some of the light from the lamps to the plants, but it will prevent the light from the window. Therefore, on the table is not a problem.
      As for "what if it explodes?". That's just the electronic ballast power surges are not terrible. And how does the rest of your equipment work with such jumps?
      And what have the overcast winters? Seedlings in the spring begin to grow when the light becomes much more. And under the lamp with sufficient lighting, seedlings grow much faster. My tomato is ready in 35-40 days. Peppers are about 45. True, I add some biohumus to the ground.

    As for the golden peppers - but the lamp does not stand idle in the winter. But of course - art requires sacrifice ...

    • To make additional lighting for seedlings at home is not so difficult. But with the help of some lamps to build the backlight? This is a question that requires additional thought. Let's see how to make the backlight with your own hands, and what, in fact, highlight. Additional information - in the video and numerous photos.

    The optimal choice of lighting

    In February cloudy days, when a thin, weak stalk of a small seedling frantically penetrates to the light, we just have to help him. It is necessary to install an additional "sun." That is, place the lighting devices above the seedlings so that the light day for the “kids” will increase, and they will rise up more actively.

    Additional lighting for seedlings can be arranged with a fluorescent lamp.

    So, what can we offer young seedlings?

    1. Incandescent lamps. This is not the best option, because they heat more than they shine. Such lighting will dry the green parts of plants, and even consume a lot of electricity. The only plus is that the lamp itself is inexpensive.
    2. Fluorescent lights. The thermal radiation of fluorescent lamps is low, which means that they can be placed directly above the plants. Lamps are economical and have a long life. The only negative - they are low-power, so for high-quality lighting you will need to use 2-3 lamps at the same time.
    3. Mercury fluorescent lamps. They have good light characteristics, they work for about 5 years. But if they are accidentally broken, then the mercury vapor contained there will harm not only greenery, but also people. Such lamps after use must be returned for recycling.
    4. Phytolamps These are the same fluorescent lamps, only they emit color in a certain light range. It is believed that the plant is actively developing, if the light falling on it consists of blue-violet and red-pink rays. Phytolamp gives just such a spectrum, but it is harmful for people, so it needs to be covered with special reflectors.
    5. LED lamps and ribbons. Rapidly gaining popularity among vegetable growers. Their features are red spectrum lighting, long life, low heating temperature and economy.

    Additional lighting from the cardboard box

    While you choose the best option, it is useful to get acquainted with the simplest and most economical way to highlight the seedlings.

    Tip: Before you “make a fuss”, find out if your shoots really need extra light. Point the light fixture halfway through the seedling box. If there is no difference between the lighted and unlit part, then there is enough light. If the difference is significant, then the plants really need an additional lighting system.

    1. First you need to measure the size of the tank with seedlings.
    2. Choose a cardboard box so that it is a little larger than your seedling box.
    3. Cut the top and sides of the box so that the sides are 1 cm high.
    4. Lay the bottom and sides of the foil. Secure it by the stapler side so that the foil is higher than the side.
    5. Put the box with the seedlings in the box on the windowsill, closer to the light.
    6. As a result, seedlings will receive additional light reflected from the foil.

    The method is good, but if you grow a lot of seedlings, then you can not do without lamps.

    How many "suites" do you need a seedling?

    Optimal for the development of seedlings of tomatoes, peppers and eggplant is considered to be illumination from 6 to 8 lux. A more light-loving exotic plants ask from 10 to 12 lux. For comparison: at the end of February, when the sun makes us happy with light for a maximum of 8 hours per day, the illumination in sunny weather is 2 thousand lux. And on cloudy days - 500 lux.

    In order to maximize the needs of seedlings, daylight should be about 15 hours in bright light. This means that the lamps should not burn only in the morning and evening, but throughout the day.

    How to arrange the backlight

    In order for saplings to grow normally and not to burn, the backlight must be placed in a special way:

    1. The optimal location of the lighting fixtures is at least 10 cm from the tops of the plants. When the seedlings grow, the lamps will need to be moved. 2 options of designs with the ability to change the distance from the plants, we consider below.
    2. For any backlight, as an additional option, it is better to use ordinary foil. It is better to cover any surface on which the containers with seedlings are located. Rays of lighting devices, in this case, will be reflected, and highlight the seedlings also from the bottom.
    3. For any kind of additional lighting you need to pick up reflectors. They will increase the efficiency of the backlight and protect people from constant bright light.

    Home lighting installation options

    Whatever lamp you choose, you need to think about how to install it. You can make the light with your own hands on the windowsill, on the table, on the personally constructed rack. Some put the seedlings on the open shelves of the cabinet, and the lamp is attached above them.

    Tip: If your seedlings are far from the window, then the lighting system should work around the clock!

    Let's consider the option of creating a special holder for phyto or fluorescent lamps. It can be placed above the table or any other level surface.

    You will need:

    • wooden bars measuring 2 by 4 cm, 1 m long;
    • 12 short bars;
    • two lamps;
    • wire with a switch;
    • 2 screws, 6 cm each, and 2 x 4 cm.

    Stages of work:

    1. The lamp is fixed on a board 1 m long.
    2. On both sides, legs are attached to this board from the sides. For this, 6 bars are used.
    3. Similarly, you need to install a second lamp. At this time, the configuration of the legs is slightly different, for greater stability, and to be able to change the height of the structure.
    4. Two struts with lamps need to put a crosswise, one above the other. Under them put the seedlings.

    You can make such a thing in 3-4 hours. The advantage of this mechanism is its durability, that its height can be changed, and it is also easy to carry if necessary.

    You will need:

    • boards;
    • metal corners;
    • wood treatment;
    • bolts or screws.

    Stages of work:

    1. Determine the required length and width of the rack. Conveniently, if it will be three compartments.
    2. We build open shelves.
    3. Each compartment will be illuminated by a lamp attached to the bottom of the upper compartment.

    The convenience of such a rack is obvious. Shelves for seedlings are located above each other, which saves space. You can put such a bookcase anywhere, not necessarily near the window. The lack of design - will not be able to change the distance from the lamp to the plant.

    Hang the light fixture with your own hands

    Attention! How to understand at what distance it is better to hang the lighting device? Mark the hand under the surface flooded with light. If you feel the heat, then the light source must be moved.

    Let's figure out how to hang any purchase lamp, if it does not have its own fastening system. You will need:

    • 2 threaded hooks;
    • 2 chains;
    • fluorescent, LED or phytolamp.

    Stages of work:

    1. At the special holes in the lamp you need to insert two dowels.
    2. Screw hooks with threads into them.
    3. On the rings we hang two chains.
    4. Now we can use this suspended structure on any shelves, nightstands and windows. It is enough to hang the chains on some ledge. By adjusting the length of the chain, you can raise the lamp higher as the seedlings grow.

    Regardless of the type and mode of illumination you choose, your seedlings will receive the maximum amount of light. It means that they will develop well even in cold and cloudy months. So, you can enjoy the early harvest.

    Extra seedling lighting - video

    Highlighting for seedlings - photo


    Seedling lighthow and what to choose
    Energy saving
    Fluorescent
    Phytolamps
    Light reflectors
    Seedling light  lamps and lamps

    What lamps to illuminate seedlings

    With each arrival of spring at summer residents and gardeners a moment comes when the question of planting seedlings comes to the fore. Of course there is an option and easier to buy it on the market and no problems. But lately, distrust of such only increases. Every gardener wants to grow it with his own hands.

    Grow your own seedlings, of course a noble and pleasant affair. When you observe how a plant appears due to your labors. However, the troublesome, because it is not easy to sow and wait until it rises and grows up. In order for the seedlings to grow well and be healthy, except for the care itself, it certainly plays the most basic role. You also need more coverage of seedlings at home. From school years we all know that with a lack of light, plants will become frail and die.

    Why not enough daylight seedlings, why do we need backlights for. The fact is that in spring all life on earth comes to life and reaches for the lights, especially young sprouts of seedlings. In order for them to grow up healthy and green, they need to be in coverage for at least 16 hours a day. Daylight especially in early spring is not enough. The sun rises late and falls early.

    How to highlight seedlings at home, on the windowsill

    That is why to compensate for this shortcoming seedling lights  houses. Additional lighting can be bought already finished, but you can make it yourself. Between them there is a huge difference. What exactly is it. Purchased lighting lamps may not always be suitable for seedling sprouts. Those that are made with their own hands and if a person is also competent in what kind of lighting is needed for his shoots, he will make just such a lamp.

    Seedling lighthow and what to choose

    What are the requirements for lighting lamps?

    1. Lamps with a red and blue beam are considered the best and most favorable lighting lamps for seedlings.

    2. The lamp should illuminate the plant, not warm it.

    3. It should not shine annoyingly.

    4. The illumination plane should be uniform.

    Energy saving

    This lamp has two basic properties for applying it as seedling lights  First, it is energy-saving, this fact plays a big role in order to save. Second, it is powerful, its light can compensate for the lack of daylight. She is similar in properties to him. The light of this lamp does not burn plants like incandescent bulbs.

    Fluorescent

    Tubular lamps with such lamps is also not a bad option. Seedling light  With the help of these lamps it is possible to place them at a small height above the seedlings. They do not heat, but shine, which is what they need for normal growth. In addition, the dimensions of such lamps are compact and can be easily mounted on the window sills of the apartment and have different colors of lighting.

    Phyto lamp

    This type of lamp is most welcome for seedling highlightshouses. The spectrum of its glow is calculated correctly, it illuminates a large plane and at the same time does not harm the plants. The quality of such lighting is very similar to the day. Therefore, the shoots feel quite comfortable. It is with this lamp that the process of photosynthesis is accelerated, which accelerates the growth of future seedlings.

    Phyto lamps are made in four varieties:

    tubular fluorescent;

    incandescent mirror lamps;

    metal halide;

    At the cost of these lamps, they also differ, than to illuminate seedlings, be guided by approximately the following selection criteria:

    lamp dimensions;

    power;

    specifications;

    ease of use.

    Do not forget that seedling light is far from the last place, so try to choose the right light and find out which lamps to choose. seedling lightshouses. You take care of her now, she will reward you with a bountiful harvest.

    What you need to know about seedling lighting

    People who are engaged in growing seedlings at home will be able to answer this question themselves. And many novice gardeners or gardeners do not quite understand why it is needed at all. They are sure that daylight is quite sufficient for them and they do not use backlighting at all. This is the most common mistake in their judgments.

    Let's take a closer look at the nuances of the extra light of plants and try to understand how important it is. As mentioned in this article above. Plants need light for 14x16 hours. This time is not enough in early spring it is getting late, it gets dark early. So it is impossible for plants to be in the daylight for a specified amount of time. Professionals use it to compensate. seedling lightenergy saving lamps.

    Especially you need to give lighting to seedlings with LED lamps in the morning and evening hours. The second question that interests many. Why light sprouts in the daytime, if it is bright outside? The answer is simple. Those people who have indoor plants probably noticed that the flowers that stand on the south side of a house or apartment grow more slowly than with the north for comparison, almost five times.

    One more. Everything, and it was undoubtedly seen, standing on a window-sill, the indoor flower bends, stretches towards the light in the direction of the glass, you turn it over, but it still stretches. Now imagine not a single sprout, but several dozen grows on a window sill in a box. And all are drawn to the window. The first, which is closer to them, gets a lot of light. And what about the last rows.

    Even if you turn the tank, the medium ones will still suffer. With additional lighting lamps and lamps, each plant receives its portion of the light, without interfering with the rest.

    Light reflectors

    In addition to luminaires, it is possible to increase the amount of lighting for germs using light reflectors. The simplest material that can be used, as a reflector, is the most common drawing paper, having established it, you yourself will see changes in the growth of your seedlings. It is necessary to install the drawing paper behind the plants themselves. Although in principle the best reflectors will be with mirror surfaces, for example, foil or something like that.

    Seedling light  lamps and lamps

    The method for adding seedling lighting described above is good for those who grow it on a windowsill. But if the seedlings are too much or there is no possibility to keep them on the windowsill, then you need to think about additional lighting with a lamp or a lamp for lighting the seedlings.

    It is strictly prohibited to light sprouts with the help of an ordinary incandescent lamp. Not only does it not give the right lighting, it also heats up and gives off heat. Therefore, you just burn the seedlings using such a lamp.

    Use only special lights for seedling highlights  and choose the right lamp type according to the features described above in this article. Good seedlings and fertile harvest

    Smile


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    Lamps for seedlings - how to solve the problem of choice and what is better to buy?

    The lack of sun causes slow growth of plants and poor development; therefore, lamps for seedlings are simply necessary during the period of short daylight hours. Additional artificial light sources are able to solve the problems that arise when growing plants at home.

    Lighting seedlings in the apartment - features

    Natural sunlight plays a huge role in growing seedlings, especially in the home. It is quite difficult to create a natural microclimate in an urban setting, so often seedlings are stretched out, become stunted and painful.
    To grow strong healthy seedlings, you need to resort to an additional light source, using lamps for illumination.

    Completing at home should be done correctly, based on the stage of development, the goals of cultivation and the condition of the crops grown, therefore, when choosing a lamp, you need to focus on the color spectrum of lighting products.

    Different intensity of luminescence has a certain color temperature, red (1400-1600 K), green (3700-4000 K), blue (more than 6700 K). There are also spectra that our vision does not catch — infrared, ultraviolet.

    The peculiarity of lighting a seedling at home on a window sill or shelf is that at a certain vegetation period some plants have a strong sensitivity to some colors, react to others less intensively. For each culture, you need to pick up your lamp to succeed in growing.

    on the photo - lighting up fluorescent lamps

    Red and blue (blue)  spectrum in the lamps perfectly stimulate the metabolic processes of vital activity, as a result, the production of chlorophyll is increased, photosynthesis and development is accelerated. Orange light  necessary at the time of fruiting (often lamps with such light are used in winter greenhouses to accelerate the ripening of fruits). Yellow and green  The spectra are reflected by seedlings, but are necessary during the period of growth (all colors are present in natural light).

    Ultraviolet light very useful, has a bactericidal effect, inhibiting the growth and reproduction of pathogenic microbes, bacteria, fungi, etc. Using ultraviolet lamps, you need to remember, too much - does not mean "good", an excess of ultraviolet rays can cause the opposite effect.

    Illumination of plants with fluorescent lamps

    What kind of lamp is needed for seedlings to grow strong plants? Proper lighting begins with the choice of light bulbs. Luminescent lighting devices have different quality parameters, a rather large temperature color interval (2800 K-7600 K). You can buy a fluorescent lamp from domestic and foreign manufacturers; well-known companies Osram, Sylvania, Uniel and others are widely represented on the market.

      on the photo - backlighting of seedlings with fluorescent lamps

    Lighting devices are often used by summer residents and gardeners for highlighting, but fluorescent lamps have some disadvantages:

    • sufficiently large length of the lamp, which creates inconvenience when lighting on narrow window sills;
    • the light is scattered in all directions, it is necessary to install reflectors in the upper, side parts of the structure;
    • the power of the fluorescent lamp for seedlings should be more than 40 W;
    • red-colored temperature spectral waves are not sufficient for full development when grown for seedlings.

    To obtain sufficient illumination, it is necessary to observe a distance of between fifteen and thirty five centimeters (from plants to a lamp). When placed on large wide window sills, the backlight should be carried out by two fluorescent lamps with a capacity of 40 watts.

    LED lights for backlighting

    They have many advantages in comparison with other artificial light sources. A wide range of models opens up wide opportunities for growing seedlings on a windowsill, in a greenhouse, greenhouses, etc. It is only necessary to choose the right power of the LED, suitable for highlighting in specific conditions. In large greenhouses, where vegetables and other crops are cultivated for sale all year round, LED lamps are indispensable.

      on the photo - LED lamp to illuminate the seedlings

    LED products, as well as fitolamps, are equipped with red and blue LEDs. The blue spectrum accelerates the growth of the root system, red - affects the development of the leaf part and enhances growth. The lack of LED-lamps in the cost, which is significantly higher in comparison with conventional lighting devices.

    The advantage of expensive diodes is less energy consumption, saving electricity at maximum performance. LED lamps have a fairly long life, not less than 10 years of continuous illumination (according to the assurances of manufacturers).

    Sodium lamps at home

    Sodium lamps are gas discharge, are considered the best in brightness. These light products are widely used for illumination of cultures, lighting of production, warehouses, streets. Sodium light bulbs are divided into two types, high and low pressure, namely high-pressure lamps are used for lighting the seedlings at home.

      on the photo - sodium lamps for seedlings

    NLVD it is desirable to use for grown plants and during the fruiting period. In the early stages (sowing, growing seedlings), the use of sodium lamps does not always have the desired effect - the plants grow faster than usual and stretch out. NLVD is characterized by the release of heat, which is so necessary for plants, especially those growing in winter greenhouses, greenhouses.

    The disadvantage of NLVD can be called strong heating and insecurity of use (in the manufacture of lamps, mercury with a mixture of sodium is used). Luminaires are not recommended to be switched on at unstable voltage, when oscillations are more than 10%. In cold wet weather, the efficiency of sodium devices decreases, which is a disadvantage when used in unheated greenhouses.