From time to time there is a need to move the plants in the area from one place to another. Transplanting roses requires compliance with certain rules that allow you to successfully root a perennial flower in a new place. Often, novice gardeners make mistakes: transplant a blooming rose, choose the wrong time to move the bushes. As a result, the plant starts to hurt, stops blooming or dies.

When is it better to transplant roses

The reasons why roses should be transplanted in the garden can be different:

  • depleted soil;
  • light deterioration due to overgrown neighboring plants;
  • regular pest attack;
  • the creation of new flower beds.

Scheduled relocation of a flower to a new place is best done at the end of the season. Autumn transplant of roses is considered the safest for the plant. It is possible to transplant a shrub in early spring, it will slightly “push away” the beginning of flowering, but will not have a negative effect on the plant. It is most difficult to transplant an adult specimen at the height of the summer season, especially during heavy flowering.

In the spring

Transplanting roses in the spring to a new place is carried out at a time when the soil is saturated with moisture after melting snow cover, warmed to 7-10 ° C, and the buds on the bush have not yet swelled. During this period, optimal conditions are provided for the survival of bushes. The lack of spring transplantation is that the rose spends additional forces on the formation of new roots and adaptation to the site, which prevents the onset of flowering.

The calendar date of work on the movement of the flower depends on the climate. In the middle belt, roses are planted in early April, in the southern regions in mid-February.

Summer

If it became necessary to transplant adult bushes in the summer, you should follow special rules. The plant is subjected to cardinal pruning. Remove all the buds and flowers, half-shortened shoots. In tall roses, trunks with a height of no more than 50 cm are left; in dwarf varieties, shoots are cut after 2-3 buds.

The preferred transplant times are evening hours and overcast weather. The first time a rose is planted on a new place is often watered, protected from sunlight and winds. On hot and dry days, spray it with warm water.

In the autumn

Transplantation of roses in the autumn is carried out 3-4 weeks before the onset of frost. In this case, the plant successfully takes root in the still warm soil, but does not have time to grow new shoots. An earlier date for planting a flower at a new place will provoke the growth of green mass, which will weaken the plant before the winter cold. Planting roses just before the temperature drops to negative values ​​leads to the death of the perennial. A weakened plant will not have time to grow new roots, to adapt to the changed conditions and will not tolerate the winter cold.

Selection and preparation of the place under the rose garden

Lush flowering, immunity to pests and diseases is achieved under the condition of planting roses in the right place. Plot under the flower bed must meet several requirements:

  • illumination during daylight hours. You should not plant perennial in the shade of trees, shrubs or garden buildings;
  • soil fertility. A flowering plant needs a lot of nutrients;
  • lack of water stagnation and spring flooding of the site. Roses growing in too moist soil are constantly exposed to fungal diseases;
  • wind protection. It should not be taken under a bed of roses plot, which is blown cold streams from the north and west side.

Site preparation is carried out a few weeks before the transplant. Dig up the soil, free from weeds, old roots and other debris. The soil is enriched with mineral fertilizers and wood ash. Poor soil is additionally fertilized with rotted compost or humus. Top dressing is carried out no later than 2 weeks before transplantation so that the root system of the flower does not get burned.

Preparing a plant for transplanting

The main task in transplanting an adult bush is to preserve the root system as much as possible. Move the roses to a new place with a lump of earth in which they grew. For grafted flowers is characterized by a deep occurrence of the roots, especially the main rod. The length can be more than one and a half meters. It does not make sense to dig the main root completely, it can be chopped off. Own-rooted seedlings, as a rule, have a superficial system of roots.

In dry weather, it is necessary to water a flower abundantly 2 days before transfer. It is quite simple to dig out small copies, their root system corresponds to the ground part and the procedure does not cause difficulties. The situation is different with large bushes. To transplant such roses requires adherence to technology:

  • the branches of the plant are carefully tied up with twine or wrapped with coarse cloth. This facilitates access to the ground around the plant;
  • around the rose bush they dig a trench with a diameter equal to the above-ground part of the plant, gradually penetrating along the entire length of the roots;
  • the longest root processes are chopped off with a spade or other garden tools. Place the cut before planting treated with ashes;
  • the excavated earthen room is gently transferred onto a strong polyethylene film, transferred to the landing site.

If you plan to plant roses the next day, the ground around the roots is wrapped with a damp cloth to prevent them from drying out.

How to transplant roses

It is advisable to transplant the dug bush as soon as possible into the prepared pit. If the damaged root areas are visually inspected, they should be removed by treating the cut point with copper sulphate or ash. Large copies of the bushes can be moved around the site on the burlap and transplanted into the planting pit along with it. Roots grow without problems through loose tissue.

Landing pattern

The diameter of the hole for the bush is determined in accordance with the circumference of the main part of the shoots. The pit is dug 15-20 cm wider and 10 cm deeper. The distance between individual seedlings is left according to the following scheme:

  • miniature, undersized species - after 30-40 cm;
  • hybrid tea varieties - after 60-90 cm;
  • braiding, standard types - at a distance of 50-100 cm;
  • large, tall varieties - in 1.5-2 m.

Such a planting scheme will allow the growing roses to get a sufficient amount of nutrients and light, eliminating the interweaving of root processes between individual bushes.

Procedure technology

At the bottom lay a layer of small gravel or broken brick, sprinkled with a hill of fertile soil. Place an earthen clod with the plant, sprinkle a portion of the earth and spill water. Fall asleep the remaining soil, gently tamped and again shed water. The rosebush is buried so that the root neck is at the same level as before the transplant. If the rose is properly transplanted, it will take root in a new place within 2-3 weeks.

Secrets and features

Regardless of the variety, age and condition of rose bushes, there are uniform requirements for transplanting:

  • use clean garden tools to reduce the risk of infecting a weakened rose;
  • provide air shelter for the winter, transplanted flowers in autumn;
  • transplant bushes no more than once every 3-4 years;
  • before transplanting, remove dry, diseased stems, buds and flowers.

In addition, there are special rules by which different types of perennial flower are transplanted.

How to transplant a blooming rose

It is possible to transplant roses during flowering, but the procedure will require more time and effort. It is recommended to do this only when absolutely necessary. Old, large specimens may die due to severe stress. In small bushes pruned shoots are radically cut off, leaves and flowers are removed. So the percent of evaporation of moisture decreases, and all forces go to rooting. In the summer heat, frequent watering is required, the soil is kept moist until new shoots appear on the shoots.

Climbing species

The main difficulty lies in the accurate release of shoots climbing and climbing varieties of support. The optimal period to successfully transplant the woven species is the autumn months. To prepare a bush to move begin in August. Young shoots shorten the top, so that by the fall it is partially cracked. Old stems are cut by 2/3, diseased and dry branches are removed. The cut place is disinfected with ashes or garden pitch.

Replanting old bushes

It is difficult to transplant a large or old rose to a new place because of the large size of the overgrown root system. Digging and moving a flower is easier for two people. It is recommended to transplant an adult rose in autumn or early spring. Growing conditions are selected as close as possible to the former. Before you start digging, prepare clean and sharp tools, which are cut off too long processes of roots. The injured roots are easily affected by pests and diseases, therefore the ground and open areas are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Rose has earned a reputation as a capricious flower. Transplanting a blooming beauty to a new place is not easy, it takes an effort to ensure proper preparation and subsequent care. Due to the severe stress that the plant experiences during transplantation, abundant flowering resumes a year after successful rooting.

Early spring and late autumn - the best time for transplanting adult plants. However, there may be problems with hibernating roses, because for them the terms of the autumn transplant are from late August to mid-September.

Is it possible to transplant a rose in summer?

Unfortunately, it often happens that thoughts of redevelopment are visited by a gardener in the summer, when all acquired "newcomers" and seedlings are already planted, and the troubles in preparing for winter are still to come. Of course, summer is not the best time for transplanting roses, but sometimes for some reason there is no other way out. In principle, it is possible to transplant a rose even at an inopportune time, but then you need to help it settle down in a new place: sacrifice flowering this year and cut the bush stronger.

If the bush is large, then we leave the rose 40-50 cm, and if there are a lot of shoots, some of them are better to be removed completely, at the same time giving the rose a beautiful shape. If the bush is small and the roots have managed almost no damage, you still need to prune the young underexposed shoots, as well as remove the flowers and buds.

In the first month after the summer transplant, water the plant as often as possible. In addition, it is necessary to shade the rose for a while. Daily spraying helps very well. Of course, a summer unplanned transplant should only be carried out not on sunny days, but on cloudy, better rainy weather.

Adult Rose Transplant Technology

To begin with, make sure that the new place will not differ from the previous ones, it will receive the usual amount of light and will be protected from the wind. First you need to prepare the planting pit, tucked it in accordance with the requirements of the rose. From the future planting pit, weed roots must be removed. After preparing the place for the rose (and ideally letting it "brew," that is, wait for the earth to settle), you can start digging out a bush.

Of course, it is not always possible to dig a plant on the projection of the crown, but you still have to try to do it with the largest possible earthy ball. It is quite difficult, because the land in rose gardens is usually loose and easily showered. First, the rose should be watered well to keep the earth better, and also to bind a thorny rosebush to facilitate the approach to it. Speaking of "as much as possible earthen coma", we mean a coma of such size that it can be dragged. But still to cope with an adult rose bush is quite difficult, it is better to attract an assistant.

At first, dig a small trench around the perimeter of the rose, gradually deepening it. Having dug a deep enough groove, tie a dirt clod with a cloth or polyethylene (food film is best) and dig under the base of the bush. Long roots that interfere with digging can be chopped off. There is nothing to worry about if the bush has the right care in the future.

Then put something strong under the base of the bush (not a shovel, because it can break, but rather scrap or a similar tool). Using the lever, pull out the bush. If transplantation takes place within the same garden, the rose can be laid on a cloth prepared next to it or a bag and dragged to the landing pit. If the rose is to be far away, the roots and earthy clod before planting should be preserved, wrapped in a damp cloth (make sure that the cloth does not dry out).

Put a rose with a lump in the prepared landing pit, check the height, so that after planting the bush is covered with earth at the same level as before. If necessary, deepen the pit or, conversely, slightly raise it.

Next, fill the ground to half a pit and begin to remove the coma harness. Then pour water strongly, wait a little while the water is absorbed. After that, add ground to the top of the pit, remove the harness and pour again. Wait until the water is gone, fill up some more earth and well "wipe" it around the bush so that there are no air voids around the roots of the rose.

If the ground is very loose and it was not possible to keep a lump when digging out, carefully examine the roots of the rose, cut off the damaged ones. Then you need to put a rose bush in the planting hole (it is better to pour a mound and distribute the roots on it) and gradually fill it with earth, alternating with watering. If the bush is small, for irrigation you will need about 1 bucket of water, if large - 1.5-2 buckets.

Sometimes it happens that the rose does not seem to notice the transplant. But often, especially when transplanting in late spring or summer, the rose then “swings” for a long time.

And yet, roses are not such delicate creatures, they are quite tenacious. The transplantation of this plant, although undesirable, is quite possible, although this is quite a laborious process.

The rose has long been the most revered flower in all countries of the world. The charming beauty, thanks to the rich colors and the divine aroma, has always occupied a special place as a decoration of any house, palace or temple. She became the most indispensable attribute of any celebration. And, of course, a special place rose in flower beds. When is it better to transplant roses? The answer to this question can be found in this article.

Of course, such divine beauty requires special attention. Rose lovers need to know everything about caring for the plant. But we are talking not only about taking care of it all year round, but also about the correct fit or change from place to place.

Terms of transplantation

So, when is it better to replant roses? The most suitable time for transplantation is spring or autumn. In the spring - from the moment when the ground is completely defrosted after winter, and before the bud breaks, and in the fall - from early September to mid-October. If necessary, you can transplant a rose in the summer, but you should definitely follow certain rules: maximum preservation of earthen coma, rainy or overcast weather, partial pruning, as well as creating a shade for the transplanted shrub.

Where to begin?

The first step in transplanting a bush is to prepare a seat for it. It is necessary to dig a planting pit 40 cm deep and 60 cm in diameter and fill with organic and mineral fertilizers in accordance with the needs of the rose. If possible, you can add to fertilizers with prolonged action (from 3 to 6 months). Ideally, the landing pit is best prepared two to three weeks before landing.

The next stage is the preparation of the rose bush itself. It is necessary to replant the bush together with the earthy clod in order to preserve the root system, it cannot be broken. But if the lump is dry, it can crumble, so you need to make sure that the earth is wet enough. When is it better to transplant roses in this case? The answer is simple: after watering a bush.

Having dug out a rose, it is better to tie it with a natural fabric (for example, sacking) so that it does not crumble when moving to a new landing site. Despite the fact that this is an extra cost, such a measure greatly facilitates the process of transplantation. To make it easier to wrap a lump, you need to dig a trench around a rose about 30-40 cm deep, cut the roots that go deep. Next we start a burlap under a combo and tie it up. Now you can take out the bush.

Place for transplant

Where and when it is better to replant in the previously prepared landing pit, to the same depth at which it grew in the same place. You can not remove the sackcloth in which we have wrapped a com, it will eventually rot. We firmly tamp the ground and pour over it. If the ground after watering is heavily rammed, you can still fill up, but not above and not below the root neck of the bush.

Spring transfer

When to replace roses in spring? If the spring transplant, the shoots must be cut according to the requirements of the variety of roses. In the autumn after transplanting the rose is not pruned. Do not forget that the technology of the process is individual, depending on the variety of roses. It is knowledge of the characteristics of varieties of roses that will enable you to make this magnificent flower the queen of your garden. So, if you are interested in when you can transplant, pay attention to the information about this particular variety.

Transplanting roses.

Often in the garden there is a need to transplant the plant, which can be caused by a number of reasons: the plant develops poorly in its permanent place, the place must be cleared due to construction, the plot is redeveloped and the like.

Transplantation is always traumatic for the plant, so you should make every effort to avoid damage to the root system. We recommend to adhere to the following order:

  1. Shovel to outline the circle of digging the bush in such a way as not to damage the main side roots.
  2. To dig a bush from all sides so that the lump with roots can be freely removed from the pit.
  3. Shovel the root ball with a shovel and turn it in the hole, putting the bush to the side.
  4. Remove the bush from the pit, put it on a spreading piece of fabric or film and wrap a clod in it so that the earth does not crumble during transportation; with the same purpose, in the evening, the rose bushes are well shed with water.
  5. Move the bush to the prepared landing pit, place it in the pit no deeper than it grew before the transplant.
  6. After planting, trim the bush and water it abundantly.

Propagation of roses.

Ways to breed roses.

  • the division of the bushes;
  • scions;
  • cuttings;
  • stem cuttings;
  • lignified cuttings.

Plants grown from rooted cuttings, layering and dividing the bush, are called root-rooted. In the case of the death of the aerial parts of the root collar, they form new shoots of the same variety. In grafted plants, in this case, rosehip shoots grow, as a result the bush “runs wild”.

Root-own roses have a shorter life span, they develop more slowly than those grafted, are less resistant to adverse environmental factors, and are low-resistant

The division of the bushes. The easiest way to breed. It is used for propagation of own-rooted roses (White, Wrinkled, French).

Divide bushes in the spring, after thawing of the soil. In our conditions it will be the end of April - the beginning of May. Before growing buds, overgrown bushes are dug out of the ground and cut into several parts with a sharp sheath or knife, so that each has roots and several shoots.

On delenkah, very long ones are carefully shortened and the roots damaged during digging are removed to a healthy place. They also shorten shoots, leaving 3-4 buds on each of them. Upper buds should be facing outwards or sideways. This is necessary for the proper formation of bushes. Small twigs cut out. Wounds are cleaned with a sharp knife. Dip the roots in a talker from a mixture of clay and mullein (or from only one clay) and plant the plants in a permanent place.

Fig. one   Branch scion.

Scions With their help, the park root-bearing roses of their own are propagated, capable of producing root shoots that form during the period of intensive growth and extend from the main shrub in the form of vertical shoots (Fig. 1). Early in the spring, after thawing of the soil, they are dug out, treated as in the previous case, and planted in another place.

Propagation of roses by layering.

Layers reproduce almost all types of roses. To do this, the shoots are bent down and attached with pegs to the loosened earth. Top poured a mixture of earth with humus or peat. Work is carried out in the spring, before bud break. By autumn, the layering root. In the spring of next year, they are separated from the parent plant and planted in a new place.

Fig. 2   Receiving otvodka.

Using them, you can get new bushes from both grafted and from own-rooted plants of various groups of roses. But especially this technique is convenient for breeding long-stemming climbing varieties (Fig. 2).

To obtain otvodkov use growing at the root of the cervix shoots. In early spring, they are bent down, laid into previously prepared shallow grooves, carefully pinned down and covered with loose, damp earth from above. The tops of the shoots are left outside and tied to the pegs, give them a vertical position. In places of contact of the layers with the ground, pre-sharp knife makes annular cuts of the bark, which causes an increased flow of nutrients to the cut and intensive formation of roots. The soil during the summer contain in a wet and friable state.

By autumn, the cuttings take root, but separate them from the parent plants next spring, and weak plants only after a year.

In our conditions, in most varieties of roses in winter, all branches that are above the snow cover die off. Therefore, in the fall, shoots designed to obtain cuttings gently bend, pin to the ground and sprinkle with peat. In the spring, after thawing of the soil, they are laid in the grooves and covered with earth.

Stem cuttings. This is the most common way to get own-rooted roses.

Lignified cuttings.

Fig. 3   Cuttings prepared for planting (left). Hardened cuttings (right).

Use finished growth and well-ripened smooth annuals 4-5 mm thick. They are harvested in the fall.

In the spring, cuttings are cut from them (Fig. 3) with a length of 10–12 cm and immediately immersed in water. Taking out of the water, they are planted in the soil and watered. Planted obliquely, almost completely buried in the ground.

Semilignified (green) cuttings (summer cutting).

In this case, the cuttings are harvested at the beginning of the lignification of the shoots. In roses, this coincides with the beginning of flowering. Use the middle part of semi-woody shoots in the flowering stage, but not the “fat” ones (Fig. 4).

Fig. four.   Propagation by semi-woody cuttings with 2-3 leaves:
1.   Cutting of cuttings from the shoot (in the beginning of flowering stage);
2 . Planting cuttings in a mixture of peat and sand;
3.   A small amount of cuttings can be planted in a regular pot and covered with a glass jar; 4.   Rooted cuttings.

Cuttings, cut from too green or heavily lignified shoots, take root worse.

Cuttings prepare a length of 7-10 cm with 2-3 leaves. In order to prevent excessive evaporation of moisture, the leaves are cut to 1/3 or 2/3 of their length (remove the upper part of the leaf plates), leaving 1-2 pairs of leaflets, the lower sheet is cut off.

The upper cut of the stalk should be straight and be 0.5–1 cm above the bud, the lower slanting (at an angle of 45 °) - just under the kidney itself.

The cuttings are planted on a bed at an angle of 45 °, then they are plentifully sprayed with water several times a day. Before planting, the cuttings are soaked in a “Heteroauxin” solution for 2 days. To preserve moisture from above, the cuttings are closed with plastic wrap or glass.

It is advisable to leave rooted cuttings of roses for wintering, covering with a small layer of insulating material. In two years they turn into developed seedlings.

In our conditions, good results can be achieved only when grafting in the period of the 1st bloom (June). Young plants rooted at this time have time to form a fairly good root system and get stronger by autumn. At later periods (July-August) weak roots are formed, and many cuttings do not give them at all.

Fig. five.   One-leaf rooting of cuttings:
1.   Cutting cuttings;
2.   Landing;
3.   Cuttings in the greenhouse (the leaves should not touch the ground);
4.   Well-rooted cuttings.

It is most convenient to graft in picking boxes of 7-8 cm in height. For the best flow of water in the bottom, holes are made that cover the broken shards with the convex side up.

Then, a small layer (about 1 cm) of drainage is laid (broken brick, sand or small gravel with sand), 3-4 cm of light fertile earth are poured over it (1 part leaf, 2 sod and 2 sand) and 1.5-2 cm of well washed and calcined river sand.

Before planting the substrate is watered. Cooked cuttings are planted in the ground to such a depth that they can stand without falling while watering and spraying. It is not worth digging down more than 1.5-2 cm, as with a shallow planting, callus formation (formation of a new fabric on the cut) and roots are proceeding faster. Place the cuttings according to the scheme 6 × 3 cm.

Boxes with cuttings set in a shaded place, for example under the canopy of trees, and covered with plastic wrap, laid on the frames. The edges of the film sprinkled with earth or pressed boards.

Revolve cuttings 3-4 weeks. At this time, high humidity, optimal temperature (20 ... 22 ° C) and diffused sunlight are necessary. Humidity is maintained by spraying (1-2 times a day), abundant irrigation of the earth around the boxes and a dense cover with plastic wrap.

In order for callus and roots to form faster, the soil must be (2 ... 3 ° C) warmer than air. In the greenhouses for this purpose, special greenhouses are being built, on the bottom of which they are laid with water heating pipes. Some amateur flower growers instead use heated electric bulbs placed under the bottom of the distribution boxes. You can also put the boxes with planted cuttings in a greenhouse, heated by biological fuel. For this purpose, the greenhouse freed from seedlings is suitable in June. If it has cooled off by this time, then 2-3 days before grafting, it is interrupted with the addition of a certain amount of manure or refilled.

If the greenhouse is located in an open sunny place, then on hot days the greenhouse frames are covered with lattice wooden shields, matting or burlap, you can also whiten the glass. The air temperature is reduced by short periodic ventilation or watering of the wall material with cold water.

Planting periodically inspect, remove dead leaves and cuttings. After the formation of roots and the beginning of intensive growth, the number of sprays is gradually reduced, the greenhouse is aired more frequently and more continuously. On the side of the greenhouse left vent. 2 weeks after the ripening of the frame is removed.

Further care is moderate watering, weeding, and, if necessary, in the fight against pests and diseases. Fertilizers, both organic and mineral, should not be applied.

In the 1st year, the cuttings have a weak and shallow root system. Therefore, in the winter they are best kept in the basement or cellar at a temperature of (0 to 5 ° C). To do this, young plants of the spring term cuttings (using woody cuttings) in the fall, before the onset of frost, dig, placed obliquely in small batches in a picking box and the roots fall asleep with damp earth. The leaves are removed from the plants beforehand, the undripened parts of the shoots are pruned, and the aerial parts are treated with a 2% (20 g per 2 l) solution of copper or iron sulphate.

Saplings from summer cuttings in distribution cabinets are left until spring. Before putting them in storage, leaves and non-ripened parts of the shoots are also removed and treated with vitriol.

In the basement boxes with rooted cuttings contribute to the onset of frost. The earth in boxes contain in moderately wet condition. In the spring, roses are planted on the ridge for growing or on a permanent place.

You can feed with mineral fertilizers only when the seedlings take root and start growing.

Many try to grow roses from cut flowers of a bouquet, but it turns out rarely.The fact is that semi-woody shoots are suitable for cuttings, on which buds are just beginning to form, and already woody ones are being sold.

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Everyone knows that the best time for planting garden beauties is spring and autumn. But sometimes there is an urgent need for some reason to transplant a rose bush in the summer.

1. Why is it necessary to transplant an adult rose

By mid-July, all newly purchased seedlings are already planted and taken root. Many roses   already bloomed. Blooming and long-planted rose bushes.

In connection with the redevelopment of the garden or construction work there is a need to move the rose bushes to a new place. The reason for transplantation may be too overgrown plants that interfere with each other, an unfortunate place for the initial planting. But these reasons must be strong enough so that the transplant cannot be postponed to mid-September.

2. Preparation of roses for transplanting

Try to choose a rainy or cloudy day for transplanting.

In a day - two sprinkle the plant with any preparation that will help smooth out the stress: Epin, Zircon, HB-101.

Tear off all the flowers and buds, cut a large plant, leaving shoots about 40 cm long. In the young bush also remove flowers and buds, cut off the young shoots.

Wide branchy bushes for convenience, tie a rope. So the bush will be easier to move to a new place.

Before digging, water the plant to keep as much land as possible on the roots.

3. How to dig adult roses

The root system usually takes up an area equal to the projection of the crown. We must try to dig as much as possible earthen room, keeping the maximum number of roots.

Along the perimeter of the crown we dig a trench. As we deepen, we wrap the earth with a cloth or wrap. The longest roots can be cut. After the bush is dug, it can be moved to the right place.

4. Landing

At the new site we dig a planting hole of a little larger than the excavated excavation room. We place in it an excavated bush of a rose, half fall asleep with earth and water it abundantly. After the water is absorbed, we fall asleep to the level to which it had been buried before. Water again. Rootsin or heteroauxin can be added to the water for irrigation.