Hardly anyone wants to challenge that roses are the most beautiful flowers that attract many. And to give one such in a pot is a successful alternative, given to a cut bouquet. After all, the bouquet will fade in a few days, having lost all its attractiveness, and indoor, if properly transplanted and actively looked after, will delight with its flowers for many years.

Probably, many people do not know that plants grown for sale and purchased in a store should not continue to grow in the same soil in which they grew. This is because for active growth, the flowers were treated with special fertilizers, in a short time to get a grown and flourished sample of garden culture.

Once home, the plant stops receiving a dose of stimulants, which is used to and begins to lose its attractive appearance. To avoid such a situation, transplantation room roses should occur immediately after hitting it in a permanent place of growth  and all preparatory procedures. How to do it right, we will understand.

Training

Before you begin transplanting a plant, you need to prepare a flower by conducting a series of simple manipulations that are urgently needed.

First of all, the whole plant should be thoroughly washed with soap and water. After this treatment, the flower is better to arrange a contrast shower, which will wash off all the remnants of soap. The main thing, so that hot water does not exceed the forty-degree temperature  otherwise you can damage the leaves. The pot with the ground must be placed in a container filled with water and allowed to stand for at least thirty minutes.

After water procedures, experts advise treating the bush with solutions based on a drug called "Epin". This assistant florist and gardeners many necessary qualities that provide stimulation of plant growth, strengthen the immune system of the flower, which is what he needs for full-growth at home.

From this drug, you need to prepare a solution that contains a liter of water and five drops of Epin. These compositions must be thoroughly sprayed with spray. Above plant must be covered with plastic bag, but in such a way that the slipper contacts the leaves of the flower as little as possible. This can be achieved if you install around the green bush simple structure of the sticks, and then on it to pull the package.

Conducting the treatment of "Epinoma", you need to know that the bush can not be left in a homemade greenhouse without airing. You need to start with a five-minute airing and increase this time every day. When the buds start to wither, you need to remove them all and remove the polyethylene. This ends all the preparatory procedures that take place before transplanting a room rose, and the transplant itself begins.

What materials are needed

To conduct a successful procedure, you need to prepare all the materials necessary for this manipulation.

What you need to have available:

When choosing a pot, it is necessary to take into account the fact that it should be several centimeters larger than the pot in which the flower was bought. This will allow the plant to grow freely., regularly increasing the root mass.

But do not buy too big a pot, it will provoke the plant to active growth, not thereby giving rise to new buds, and for a rose it is irrelevant, since this flower is acquired precisely because of its charming flowering.

Of course, the substrate is better to buy in the store, where this flower is indicated on the package. And the purchase must take place in a specialized flower shop  or garden centers of a large supermarket. This ensures that the package with the soil will be a mixture in composition corresponding to the declared on the packaging parameters.

If there is no such specialized land, you can choose the soil yourself, although it is not recommended. It should be loose and have both a neutral and a weakly acid reaction.

Buying a ceramic pot entails small procedures that need to be done with himbefore repotting a flower into it. It is necessary to fully immerse it in water for several hours.

It is necessary to ensure that the pot has drainage holes. If they are not there, then this is not a pot, but a flowerpots. In the case of a plastic product problem is easy to fixby heating a screwdriver on the fire and making a hole at the bottom. If the product is made of ceramics, then it is not suitable for planting and you need to purchase another container that is more suitable for transplanting.

Room Rose Transplant Instructions

To transplant a flower you need to start by carefully removing it from the old pot. Then boiled warm water will be needed in which the roots of the plant should be immersed. Ridding the flower of the old land from the roots, thereby it is possible to free the rose from the excess chemicals that it feeds for rapid cultivation.

The process of transplanting itself takes place in two stages:

  • At the bottom of the pot fall asleep drainage.
  • A bush is installed in a pot and the soil is gradually poured in, periodically ramming it.

It is necessary to fill the soil in a pot in such a way that at least two centimeters are left to the edges.

Immediately after transplanting watering the flower is not worth it. It is better to choose a place for him in the shade and leave it there for a day. Then it must be determined to a permanent place where it will be light and cool. Best suited windowsfacing the south-east side, but if there are none, then you need to put the flower on the most lighted place in the apartment. Watering this plant to the bottom, pouring the separated water in the pan, which stands under the pot.

When the adaptation process after transplanting takes place, as a rule, it takes about a month, the rose bush needs to be fed with fertilizers intended for flowering plants.

If the flower is comfortable in the created conditions, then soon he will reward for the care with numerous budsthat will create a festive atmosphere and comfort. And such a period can last a very long time, not excluding the winter months.

  “... It is a pity to disturb and transplant the rose to another place in the fall, but sometimes it is impossible to avoid such a procedure.
  After making the necessary preparations, having transplanted a bush according to all the rules, you can not be afraid of ruining your favorite plant. The traumatic event will turn into useful.

Preparation - the key to a successful transplant of roses in the fall

People cultivate roses for so long that all the rules for the care, planting and breeding of this flower have been tested in practice thousands of times. Even the ancient Romans were able to grow them in large quantities, and in the winter in special greenhouses. Because you should not act at random, it is enough to follow the rules:

1. The end of September, the beginning of October is the best time for transplanting roses in the fall. In another place, shrubs that have begun to drain nutrients from the aerial part to the roots take root more easily.

2. Prepare the plant for transplantation should be in advance. Already in August, stop feeding, reduce watering, leave fading inflorescences on the branches.

3. The place of new habitat should be sunny, with a good outflow of moisture. Stagnant water in the winter leads to overheating of the roots.

4. The soil for planting should be loose, fertilized. Ideally, if the site has had time to “rest” from plantings at least a year, otherwise it is better to replace the soil with fertile.

When transplanting roses in the fall to a new place (pictured), special attention is paid to the preservation of each root. Abundant watering before excavation of the bush will allow you to create a clod of land with which the plant is transferred to the landing site.

  If you want to move the excavated plant for a considerable distance, it is not superfluous to lay it carefully on the cloth, wrap a clod of earth with it and tie it at the level of the root collar. In this case, you can plant along with the "packaging", just unleashing it, the fabric will quickly decompose in moist soil.

Pruning the bush when transplanting roses in the fall to another place

The rosebush, selected for transplanting, is dug round widely, trying to preserve the root system. The main rod, with a deep occurrence, is cut with a shovel at the maximum accessible depth and the roots are carefully removed from the ground.

If a lump of soil could not be saved, and it crumbled, use this to check the condition of the underground part. Remove all diseased and damaged areas by trimming the root with a pruning shears to a white, healthy tissue. Be sure to cut the tips of seedlings with open rhizomes, it stimulates the growth of absorbent roots and improves the nutrition of young roses.

Note! After pruning, the length of the roots should be equal to or slightly larger than the aboveground part.

There are two opinions on how to deal with branches and leaves when transferring a plant to a new place:

Shorten to the columns with a height of 10 cm, completely expose the branches, removing the foliage;

Leave the entire bush, with twigs and leaves, for use by the root of the nutrients accumulated in the aboveground part.

When the autumn is warm and the humidity is high, cutting the sprouts can lead to the awakening of sleeping buds. Instead of preparing for winter sleep, the plant will heal in spring mode. There will be young twigs that still do not have time to woody and die in the winter, the root will lose a lot of strength. Under such weather conditions, it is better not to touch the branches and leaves. If desired, they can be cut when it is steadily cold.

If autumn is cool, and there are at least three weeks before the expected frosts, then the transplanted bushes will have enough time to prepare for winter, the young growth will not appear. So the bush can be cut before planting. Pruning is necessary in the case of planting with a bare root.
  Proper pruning for a successful transplant of roses in the fall to another location

  Features transplant roses in the fall to another place

The landing pit should exceed the size of the roots, usually 50x50 cm and up to 70 cm in depth. The distance between the bushes depends on the characteristics of the variety, for normal flowering the roses need a lot of space. But sparse plantings are not so decorative, the soil dries out faster, more weeds grow.

Further actions differ depending on the state of the root system. Two ways of planting roses:

1. Landing with a lump of land. It is simply placed on the bottom of the pit, filling the remaining voids with a fertile soil mixture. Each layer is well tamped and shed water. There should be no air pockets - the roots die from contact with them.

2. Planting with bare roots. Fertile soil is poured into the center of the finished pit. A sapling is placed on it, and the roots are distributed over the knoll so that they do not bend upward, but go down to the bottom of the depression. Gradually, they fill the pit with earth, shedding and tamping it down.

With an open root system, the process of planting is somewhat different, but even in this case it is important to well tamp and shed the ground, so as not to “wallow” the roots.
  The seedling is set in such a way that the root neck (and hence the grafting site) is 3-5 cm below the soil level. This will save the plant from the appearance of wild shoots in the future.

After filling the ground and watering the hole, check the planting depth and pour dry earth around the bush.

How to cover for the winter roses transplanted in the fall to another place?

The root of the transplanted plant is not yet fully matured and needs shelter from frost. There are several ways to shelter young saplings for the winter:

Hilling land;

Shelter spruce pine trees;

Fencing with board shields;

The use of modern covering materials, films.

Shelter each gardener chooses based on their capabilities, weather conditions and varieties of roses. The main rule - do not cover the bushes to this cold. Small first frosts harden the plants.

Making the transplant useful for rose bushes

Since it is impossible to avoid transplanting roses in the fall, they can be transferred to another place with benefit:

1. To improve the quality of the soil. Fertile soil can be purchased at a garden store or cook yourself. To one part of the garden land add one piece of humus and peat. Sand is added to clay soil, and clay is added to sand soil.

2. To control the acidity of the soil. Usually, over time, the soil is acidified. You can fix this by making ash, crushed chalk or dolomite flour.

3. Improve the root system. It becomes possible to remove diseased areas, check them for the presence of pests.

Be careful! In the autumn it is dangerous to overfeed the plants with nitrogen, a violent growth may begin instead of a rest period. From mineral fertilizers it is better to choose potash, they contribute to the maturation of shoots and better wintering.

Transplanting roses in the fall to another place allows you to add nutrition to the roots throughout the depth. After all, the main beauty of the garden requires a fertile layer of up to 40 cm. A competent transplant will not weaken the bush, but will make it even more beautiful. But it should be remembered that the next time you can transplant roses only after three years, therefore, the choice of location and the quality of planting should be approached seriously ().

  When transplanting roses in the fall, you need to know that the time is limited: from planting to the first frost, you need to leave 2-3 weeks in reserve so that the bushes have time to take root, roughly: mid-August - late September.
   All roses with long and powerful shoots (climbing, park, scrubs) are best transplanted in September.
   Roses with thin and flexible shoots (Rambler rose) are also transplanted in September, but in August it is necessary to pinch the tops of the young branches so that they can woody by the winter. Old branches are cut off after flowering, and the remaining young branches will bloom next year.
   Climbing roses with powerful thick shoots, shorten branches by a third ().


Over time, every gardener is faced with the need to transplant roses to another place. And it can be not only young saplings, but also adult formed bushes. But before proceeding with the resettlement, it is necessary to study the rules of the procedure and take into account the requirements of culture, since ignoring them can lead to a long adaptation of the rose, and sometimes to the destruction of the bush. It is important to carry out preliminary preparation of the site and become familiar with the features of further care so that the plant can quickly recover and grow.

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      Optimal timing

    You can transplant roses in early spring and autumn. But depending on the region, this period may shift.

    In the conditions of the middle band and the suburbs, it is best to transplant roses in the fall, beginning in early September and beginning in October. The duration of this period depends on the air temperature, the higher it is, the later should be transplanted. But so that before the onset of frost was at least 2-3 weeks. This time is necessary for the seedlings to be fully rooted before the arrival of winter. Autumn transplantation provides an opportunity to get full-fledged rose bushes by spring, which will bloom next season.

    In case of premature frost, the procedure should be postponed until spring, as the bushes, not having time to take root, freeze in winter.

    In Siberia and the Urals, this procedure should be carried out in early spring, when the air temperature warms to 10–12 degrees during the day and will not fall below 5 degrees at night. In the case of an earlier planting, roses may suffer from returnable frosts, since they cannot fully take root.

    When late planting, the plants will adapt for a long time in a new place, since the increased temperature of the air stimulates active vegetation. This means that the bushes need to spend energy not only on rooting, but also on the development of new shoots and leaves. Sometimes it can cause the destruction of the bush.

      Features of the transplant

    Before proceeding with the transplantation of roses, you must be familiar with the basic rules of procedure. This will help the grower to avoid errors that adversely affect the further development of the bushes.

    Even minor recommendations should not be ignored, as they all matter when transferring.

      Choosing a place

    Roses prefer to grow in sunny open areas, especially in the morning, when moisture evaporates intensively from the leaves. This will help reduce the risk of developing fungal diseases in the future.

    It is not necessary to place the bushes near the spreading trees and shrubs, as they will not only take all the nutrients from the soil, but also create shading. In this case, the roses will not be able to fully develop, to bloom, and will also be susceptible to black spot and powdery mildew.

    The best place for a rose garden is the southeast or southwest side of the garden.

      Site preparation

    Roses are undemanding to the composition of the soil, but prefer loams with neutral acidity in the range of 6.5–7.0 pH. When planting in a clay soil with an intensive process of mineralization, a weakly acidic medium of 7.5 pH is allowed. Sandy soil is also suitable for the cultivation of the rose garden, but it should be understood that it freezes quickly in the winter and overheats in the summer, in addition, it quickly leaches nutrients. Therefore, it is necessary to introduce humus and peat in advance, so that the bushes can fully develop.

    The occurrence of groundwater should not be closer than 1–1.2 m to the soil surface, since the root system in grafted bushes reaches 1 m in depth.

    You should not plant roses in places where moisture stagnates, as this land is unable to warm enough and limits the access of air to the roots.

    Preparation of the new site should be carried out 2–3 weeks before the procedure, or from the autumn during the spring transplant. The site should be dug to the depth of the shovel and carefully remove the roots of perennial weeds. Flatten the surface to eliminate any cavities and elevations.

    Proper preparation of the site will allow the soil to settle in a timely manner and help to avoid excessive root penetration.

      Features landing pit

    Pits for transplanting should also be dug in advance. Their depth and width should be slightly larger than the seedling root system. Often they are dug 30–40 cm in diameter and 50–70 cm deep. When transplanting tea-hybrid, polyanthic varieties and floribunda, landing pits should be made at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other. Standard, climbing and climbing species are recommended to be placed at a distance of 1 meter, and miniature and curbs - 20 cm.

    Indentations for the bushes should be filled with more than half of the special nutrient mixture that will help provide the plant with the necessary nutrition at the initial stage.   For its preparation will need to mix the ingredients in this proportion:

    • 30% - garden land;
    • 30% - peat;
    • 20% of humus;
    • 20% sand;
    • 20 g - superphosphate;
    • 10 g - potassium sulfate.

    The mixture should be filled landing pits for 2/3 of the total volume of at least 10 days before transplantation. This will allow the nutrient layer to settle and condense by the required date.

      Preparation of bushes for transplanting

    One or two days before the transplant bushes to a new place should be watered. This will help avoid unnecessary damage to the roots.

    Preparing a rose bush for transplanting: pruning shoots and roots

    The shoots of the bushes must be shortened to 20 cm in height, and the roots should be cut according to the type of roses:

    • bush on 20 cm length;
    • curly and climbing varieties - half the length;
    • standard - 1/3 of the length.

    You should know that the grafted varieties form a taproot that goes deep, and the roses on their own roots form the surface root system. Therefore, when digging bushes, this feature should be taken into account.

    In the future, the procedure for extracting adult bushes is carried out as follows:

    • mark a circle around the plant with a shovel, taking into account the location of the root system;
    • to dig up a bush from all directions, gradually going deep into the soil;
    • having reached the required depth, lay scrap under the root, which will play the role of a lever when uprooting;
    • put a bush with a clod of earth on a cloth and move it to a new place.

      The main methods of transplantation

    There are two main ways of transplanting roses in the open field: classic and wet.

    The first option is used if you could not save the earth com. In this case, it is necessary to inspect the roots initially and cut all damaged and broken sections with a secateur. Then it is recommended to put the seedlings for 2 hours in water in order to activate biological processes.

    The classic way of transplanting roses

    After that, you should start planting in the classical way:

    • make in the center of the landing pit a hill on which evenly distribute all the roots;
    • vaccination site should be located 3-5 cm below the soil level;
    • plentifully water the bush and fill it with half the grooves;
    • compact the intermediate layer;
    • re-water the sapling and wait until the moisture is completely absorbed;
    • cover the ground completely;
    • tamp the soil to eliminate voids.

    Wet way to transplant roses

    The second option is more simple and convenient. For the wet method, it is necessary to preserve the earthen clod on the roots as much as possible.   Further transplantation is carried out in this order:

    • pour a bucket of water into the landing recess;
    • without waiting for absorption, put the bush in the middle so that the root neck is 5 cm below the soil level;
    • top it with another half bucket of water;
    • to allow moisture to be completely absorbed, dissolving the earth and deepening the roots of the rose;
    • cover the pit with earth and well tamp the surface.

    After the transplant, the rose bushes are not recommended to be disturbed for at least 4 years, as they need time to fully adapt to the new place. Therefore, it is recommended to immediately take into account all the features of culture and follow the rules of the procedure.

      Transplant room rose

    The room rose must be transplanted annually in spring at the end of February - at the beginning of March. It is best to rely on the favorable periods of the growing moon indicated in the lunar calendar. This will help reduce the period of adaptation of the plant after transplantation.

    For a flower, you should pick a pot 2–3 cm more than the previous one with the presence of drainage holes. Soil for roses can be purchased at the store or cook in this ratio: 2 parts of turf, 1 part of sand and 1 part of peat or humus.

    Transplanting room roses should be carried out in the following sequence:

    1. 1. Water the pre plant.
    2. 2. Cut the shoots to 1/3 of the length.
    3. 3. Pour a 1 cm drainage layer into the new pot and a 2 cm soil layer on top.

The rose has long been the most revered flower in all countries of the world. The charming beauty, thanks to the rich colors and the divine aroma, has always occupied a special place as a decoration of any house, palace or temple. She became the most indispensable attribute of any celebration. And, of course, a special place rose in flower beds. When is it better to transplant roses? The answer to this question can be found in this article.

Of course, such divine beauty requires special attention. Rose lovers need to know everything about caring for the plant. But we are talking not only about taking care of it all year round, but also about the correct fit or change from place to place.

Terms of transplantation

So, when is it better to replant roses? The most suitable time for transplantation is spring or autumn. In the spring - from the moment when the ground is completely defrosted after winter, and before the bud breaks, and in the fall - from early September to mid-October. If necessary, you can transplant a rose in the summer, but you should definitely follow certain rules: maximum preservation of earthen coma, rainy or overcast weather, partial pruning, as well as creating a shade for the transplanted shrub.

Where to begin?

The first step in transplanting a bush is to prepare a seat for it. It is necessary to dig a planting pit 40 cm deep and 60 cm in diameter and fill with organic and mineral fertilizers in accordance with the needs of the rose. If possible, you can add to fertilizers with prolonged action (from 3 to 6 months). Ideally, the landing pit is best prepared two to three weeks before landing.

The next stage is the preparation of the rose bush itself. It is necessary to replant the bush together with the earthy clod in order to preserve the root system, it cannot be broken. But if the lump is dry, it can crumble, so you need to make sure that the earth is wet enough. When is it better to transplant roses in this case? The answer is simple: after watering a bush.

Having dug out a rose, it is better to tie it with a natural fabric (for example, sacking) so that it does not crumble when moving to a new landing site. Despite the fact that this is an extra cost, such a measure greatly facilitates the process of transplantation. To make it easier to wrap a lump, you need to dig a trench around a rose about 30-40 cm deep, cut the roots that go deep. Next we start a burlap under a combo and tie it up. Now you can take out the bush.

Place for transplant

Where and when it is better to replant in the previously prepared landing pit, to the same depth at which it grew in the same place. You can not remove the sackcloth in which we have wrapped a com, it will eventually rot. We firmly tamp the ground and pour over it. If the ground after watering is heavily rammed, you can still fill up, but not above and not below the root neck of the bush.

Spring transfer

When to replace roses in spring? If the spring transplant, the shoots must be cut according to the requirements of the variety of roses. In the autumn after transplanting the rose is not pruned. Do not forget that the technology of the process is individual, depending on the variety of roses. It is knowledge of the characteristics of varieties of roses that will enable you to make this magnificent flower the queen of your garden. So, if you are interested in when you can transplant, pay attention to the information about this particular variety.

You can plant roses in spring, summer and autumn. However, landing in any of these periods has its own characteristics. This must be taken into account. Now we will talk about the rules of the autumn planting.

Planting roses in the fall

In the fall, roses are planted from mid-September to mid-October. If you plant a little earlier, the bush will start and the above-ground part will begin to grow actively, and the root system will noticeably lag behind in growth. This can even lead to the death of the plant in winter.

  Where better to plant.A place in the sun is an ideal option; a semi-shade is also suitable (a place where the sun shines for several hours a day). Roses planted in the shade bloom poorly and will endlessly hurt.

After planting the plants must be watered.

Do not plant in the lowlands where water accumulates in the spring. Summer plants certainly survive, and in winter is likely to vypreyut. If there is simply no other place, then make a high bed.

  Preparation of seedlings for planting.Carefully inspect the roots, if they are long - it is better to shorten them. But even short roots still need to be slightly trimmed. Just refresh the cut, then callus forms faster. The cut must be white, if it is brown, then the roots began to die. It is necessary to cut until the cut becomes white.

The root neck of the purchased seedlings is often wrapped with tape - it must be removed.

  Landing pits.Planting pits are prepared based on the size of the roots. If the land is not particularly fertile, then pour a nutrient mixture consisting of sand, peat and sod land in equal proportions into the hole. After that, enough space should be left in the landing pit to accommodate the root system. The stubs should be positioned freely and not in any way wrap up.

  How deep to plant.  Planting seedlings is necessary so that the root collar (grafting site) finds itself in the ground at a depth of about 5 cm. With such planting, the cultivar will take out its additional roots, and the rosehip shoots will probably not break through the ground. You will then have fewer problems with wild growth.

Landing.  Lower the seedling into the hole, straighten the roots and carefully pour the soil mixture. Form a hole for watering and water well. Watering is necessary even if the ground is damp. After watering, the ground in the landing pit will be compacted and there will be no air voids around the roots, and this is very important.

When water is absorbed, sprinkle the ground if it has subsided heavily and cover the hole with some mulch.

  Pruning seedlings after planting.This is an important moment! When spring planting seedlings pruned, leaving only a few buds. When planting roses in the fall, seedlings can not be cut off in any case. After pruning, the plants begin to produce young shoots, and there is no longer time to ripen them. With the onset of cold weather they will perish. Therefore, during the autumn planting pruning is better to postpone until spring.

The shoots of young seedlings are flexible, flexible, and when sheltered for the winter, they simply bend down to the ground.

At what distance to plant roses.

Between the bushes leave:

  • Hybrid tea and floribunda roses 50 - 60 cm.
  • English roses 70 - 80 cm.
  • Climbing roses and large scrubs 1 - 1.5 m.

Autumn rose care

Autumn care for roses is the preparation of plants for the upcoming wintering. Only healthy bushes with well-ripened shoots will survive the winter successfully. In order for the shoots to mature well, it is necessary to exclude all factors that provoke the growth of young shoots. This is primarily: nitrogen fertilizing in the second half of summer, and especially in the fall, abundant watering, pruning of the shoots in early autumn.

Autumn pruning

Top dressing.Autumn roses do not need to feed. Last feeding spend in August. It should be only phosphorus - potassium (without nitrogen). Phosphate fertilizers contribute to the growth of roots, and potash fertilizers increase the winter resistance of plants, this is just what we need. In the store, you can pick up special autumn fertilizers for roses, and you can use the old, proven: superfatom, potash salt, potassium chloride.

  How to water.  If autumn is rainy, you can not water it at all. In dry weather it is necessary to water, but moderately. In the winter, the plants should receive water recharge, especially if the shelter is “dry” in winter.

Transplanting bushes in autumn

The rose plant is quite unpretentious and easily tolerates transplanting, but you should know the basic rules.

When it is better to transplant.  Planting and transplanting roses in the fall should be in September - October. Choose a cloudy day for this or start work in the late afternoon when it gets cooler.

The most important thing in a rose transplant is to carefully dig up a bush, trying not to damage the roots. Although, if the plant is already old enough, it will be difficult to do. But even if a part of the roots is damaged, for a rose it is not fatal, it will quickly restore them.

Begin to dig up the bush from all sides, gradually deepening. Sooner or later you will reach the taproot, which goes deep into the ground. You still can't dig it out, you just have to chop it off.

After that, try to get a bush out of the hole without falling apart an earthen room. For carrying the plant to a new place, you can use a large package or a piece of film, a tarpaulin, which is prepared in advance.

Transplant a rose to a new place.  We prepare the landing pit a little more than the size of the root system with an earthy ball. If the ground is poor, then dig a hole a little more and add fertile soil there.

Transplanting roses.

When transplanting, do not forget to deepen the root neck into the soil by 5-6 cm. If it has already been buried during the initial planting, or you transplant a root rose, then plant the plants at the same level as they grew.

The transplanted rose must be carefully watered and mulched the hole. Tie tall bushes to a hammered stake, otherwise the wind can tilt the plant and then it will be difficult to level it. Trimming set aside until spring.

Autumn pruning roses

For inexperienced florists, pruning roses is a real headache. They come up to a bush with shears and try on for a long, long time - what is there to cut off.

In fact, this procedure is quite simple. Just need to understand what, why and when you want to cut. Not to remember, but to understand. Today we will talk about the autumn pruning of roses.

So: autumn pruning, roses by and large are not needed. Roses are pruned in the fall only to make it easier to cover them for the winter. If there is an opportunity to bend the bush to the ground - bend and cover. You will spend the main pruning in the spring.

The only thing that must be done is to remove all young, unripe shoots. They can not leave. Not only do they have no chance to survive the winter, so they can still become a source of infection for the entire bush.

The situation is similar with leaves, they are also recommended to cut, collect and burn. Of course, removing the leaves from a hybrid tea is not difficult, but from a large bush of climbing roses ... I have never cut the leaves from climbing roses, I always felt sorry for time and never had any problems. How do you do - you decide.

The basic rule of autumn pruning:  Pruning roses in the fall can begin when at least the night temperature is below 0º.

Make cuts slanting (so that water would flow faster from them) and cover them with garden pitch.

Autumn pruning of hybrid tea and floribunda roses

This is how a cut bush of hybrid tea roses should look like before shelter for the winter.

To bend down to the ground, the adult bushes of such roses are unlikely to succeed, therefore, they are usually pruned in the fall. This is done very simply, all shoots are shortened to 25 - 30 cm. According to the rules, the cut should be made oblique and 0.5 cm above the bud located on the outside of the shoot (the young shoot grown from this bud should not grow inside the bush, but towards ).

In the fall, you can forget about this rule and cut as you like. During the winter, the tops of the shoots will freeze, dry out and they will still have to be cut again in the spring. Then everything must be done according to the rules.

In the photo you see how the cut bush of hybrid tea roses should look like before shelter for the winter.

Trimming Ground Roses

It is easiest to bend these roses to the ground, so they do not need any pruning. Remove only dead flowers from them.

Park roses

This group of roses also does not need autumn pruning. Remove only old flowers and fruits.

Climbing Climbing Roses

Climbing roses bloom on the shoots of the previous year and therefore they should not be strongly cut. Bushes grow very large, with powerful shoots. For winter shelter, they must first be bent to the ground, and this is almost always very difficult to do. In order to facilitate this task, it is possible in the fall to cut out old, broken shoots and shoots growing “not there” and interfering with the shelter.

Scrubs, English and Standard Roses

All of these roses in the autumn are removed only unripe shoots, dry branches and old flowers.

Rose cuttings in autumn

Interesting video about autumn cuttings of roses:

Most rose lovers are cutting at the beginning of summer. Someone achieves good results, someone is not very. Very often failures are associated with increased summer temperatures. For rooting is best suited 24 - 27 degrees of heat. And if on the street 35, then what then is under a can or under a film in a greenhouse? It is rather difficult for a young plant to take root and survive in such conditions.

I want to talk about the method of cutting roses in the fall, which is devoid of this and many other shortcomings. Of course, the method is not new, but not everyone knows about it. Some people know, but do not use, not particularly believing in its effectiveness, and the method is not only simple, but also effective.

Preparing a site for grafting.  If you have a greenhouse sunk into the ground, then it is ideal for autumn cuttings of roses. You can dig a trench deep with a spade bayonet or a little deeper. If clay appears at the bottom of this trench, then dig a little more and fill in the ground mixed with sand.

One important condition:  This trench or greenhouse should not be flooded either in winter or spring.

Preparation of cuttings.When you cut the roses in the fall, cut the cuttings about 20 cm long with 4-5 buds. The leaves are not needed, immediately remove them.

Planting cuttings.  Cut the cuttings into the ground to a depth of 5 - 6 cm so that the two buds are in the ground and the rest on the surface. Fill the greenhouse firmly with fallen leaves and cover with lutrasil. Until spring, you do nothing more.

In the spring, make a film cover over the greenhouse, water it, air it, and when you realize that the cuttings are rooted, gradually remove the film.

The second part of the video, which became the cuttings in the spring:

As you can see, autumn grafting of roses is simpler than summer, endless spraying is not required, and in general, care is much easier.

At the end of the article I want to say a few words about the garden tools. First of all about the secator. When working with roses, we use this tool very often. First of all, it should be well sharpened and in good condition. A blunt, loose pruner injures the plants and tests the gardener's nerves for strength.

Now, both in regular stores and online stores there is a huge selection of a wide variety of secateurs for every taste. Women - gardeners should pay attention to the pruner with ratchet mechanism. With it, you can cut thick, dry branches with minimal effort and not least, the cut is smooth and smooth.

Ratchet with ratchet mechanism GRINDA 8-423033_z01

While you are looking at a photo of such a secateur, this is just a beautiful picture and only taking it in your hands you understand how useful this tool is.

In order not to injure your hands, work in gloves. Only not in the ordinary, and special to work with thorny plants.

Gloves LISTOK to work with roses made of artificial leather.

In such gloves you will work quietly without fear of hurting your hands.