They dream that these flowers decorate their lands with their bright colors and fragrances.
Soil preparation
For good growth you need fertile, loose, with the maximum amount and the ground. If your does not meet the requirements, it must be prepared.
It is important to do this for a while before boarding. It is necessary to mix the soil with organic in equal quantities. Then add to the composition, bone meal. 
Roses are planted in pits or trenches 65 cm deep and 40 cm in diameter. If your area is sandy, you need to put a layer of clay 5 cm high at the bottom. Such manipulations will help avoid drying out the earth. Clay soil for disposal of overwetting is compacted with gravel sand. Just before landing, the prepared mixture is poured into the hollows.
Rules for planting roses in the fall
The planting of roses in the autumn is carried out using the same technology as the full-fledged bushes.
Important! If you bought rose seedlings with an open root system or cuttings, but it is impossible to plant them correctly, you can not do everything in a hurry. It is better to place them on a warmed loggia in a shipping container or prikopat in a cellar and plant in the open ground in the spring.
We plant bushes (technology)
The process of planting roses is not too hard, if you know what sequences must pass the work:
- The bottom of the pit is loosened with forks, poured on top of a mixture of soil and then the usual soil.
- The roots of the seedlings are pruned.
- The ends of the shoots are also recommended to cut.
- The seedling is placed in the middle of the pit, the roots carefully spread. Pour the ground on top so that the root neck is 5 cm deep.
- The ground is being tamped down.
- Spend abundant. It is recommended to spend at least 20 liters of water for each bush.
- Bush spud so that the roller of the earth was not less than 10 cm in height.
- Top can be laid grass or.
Scheme
Planting roses in the fall should be the same pattern as in other times of the year. The distance between the bushes should be 70 cm, and between the rows of 1.5 m. The dimensions of the grooves depend on the type of variety:
- : 40x40x40 cm
- Park or: 50x50x50 cm
Planting roses in the fall will allow you to enjoy their flowering in the first year of life. Plants planted in spring usually lag behind in development, they are not allowed to bloom, so that they can gain more strength. Many doubt whether it is possible to plant such a delicate flower in the ground in the fall in the middle lane. If you learn how to plant correctly, accurately calculate the time, then in the spring an already rooted sapling will grow faster, it will receive the first hardening by hibernation, which will help it grow further healthy. So it is worth talking about how to plant roses in the fall.
Time to land
The main nuance in how to plant a rose in the fall, is the timing. How to plant, everyone knows, but when? The answer to this question corrects the weather. The fact is that it is necessary to plant a bush on a plot a month before the onset of the real frosts. Three to four weeks is just enough for the plant to get used to a new place, grow several side roots, prepare gradually along with the cooling of air and earth for a period of rest.
The southern regions can afford to plant roses in October, usually in the second or even third decade.
In the middle lane, it is better to do this, if in October, then in the first decade, and better in the second half of September.
More northern areas suitable beginning of September, or even August. Each grower must determine this time, based on the usual time of occurrence of constant frosts for his area, counting from him at least three weeks.
Video “Landing in the autumn time”
From the video you will learn about the important rules for planting in the autumn.
How to get a seedling
It is best to buy a sapling in a reputable nursery or in a store, where in the fall there is often a substantial discount on such items. Many flower growers plant in the autumn rooted cuttings or plants grown from the seeds of their own roses. 
A suitable time for rooting cuttings is the period from the beginning of the formation of buds until autumn. Those who want to grow own-rooted roses, at the beginning of flowering, cut into semi-woody shoots with 3 - 4 buds and root them in water or soil. By the end of the summer, the cuttings should already have acquired roots and even young twigs.
Seeds from last year’s fruits are sown in the fall or spring; in any case, by the end of the season they have already become young plants with roots that can be planted in a permanent place of growth.
How to choose the best place
Roses grow well in open sunny areas, protected from the north wind and drafts. This may be the southern slope, on which the water will not linger after the rains or melting snow. It is important that groundwater does not come close to the surface, because the rose does not like stagnant water or swampiness. If there is such a threat, it is worthwhile to organize the drainage and raise the flower bed above the general ground level.
The place should be free from other large plants, the shade from trees or buildings should not fall on the flower in the morning and evening hours, shading in the hottest daytime is permissible (and sometimes even desirable).
If you plan to plant several plants, then planted roses should not shade each other, too frequent arrangement of bushes will not allow the air to circulate enough to air them, and this already threatens with diseases. Therefore, you need to keep in mind the size of adult bushes. Usually between them leave from 50 cm to 1 meter, for low bushes less, and for climbing roses - 1.5 m or even more, for standard roses - generally not less than 3 m. When planting climbing roses, you should consider a place for winter shelter .
Best weather
For autumn planting, it is advisable to choose a fine day, no need to deal with it in the rain or snow. Plants are well received in the fall precisely because the weather is right - the air humidity is higher than in spring, and the air and soil temperatures are optimal for the new plant. But, if you plant it at low air temperature, or when cold rain with snow cools the ground, it will doom your actions to failure. If the seedlings are waiting, and the weather turned bad for a long time, then it is better not to risk it, and you can plant roses in the fall next year, and these will have to be left until spring. They are preferably prikopat sand or earth, placed in a cellar or other room where the temperature will be maintained from +1 to +5 degrees. They perezimuyut great, and then they will grow, planted in the spring.
Soil preparation
Roses need light, breathable, non-acidic (or slightly acidic) fertile soil. This is what you need to prepare a few weeks before landing. For this, the plot is cleared of weeds and all plant residues, dug, adjusted, if necessary. Sour soil is corrected by adding lime or dolomite flour, heavy mixed with peat, sand and compost. Then they dig a hole that is larger than the seedling's root system. Its bottom is loosened with forks, the ground taken out of it is mixed with rotted manure, wood ash, and mineral fertilizers are added. 
If the soil is completely sandy, then clay, peat, compost should be added. Clay make dried, ground to a powder.
Roses grow well on manured soils, and prefer horse manure, but it can not be added fresh, just rotted.
Seedlings preparation
When choosing a seedling withopen root system, special attention should be paid to it, its good development is confirmed by the presence of a large number of thin roots. The roots must be healthy, not overdried, without spots or traces of rot, at the cut - light. Shoots also need to be examined, there should be no signs of rot or disease, there should be at least three well-developed healthy shoots. 
A day before planting, the roots should be soaked with water, preferably taken at a distance of not less than +18 degrees. And before planting, the root is shortened to 30 cm, and shoots up to 35 cm, the entire seedling should be treated with iron sulfate for the prevention of diseases. Some growers are advised to dip the roots in a clay mash with the addition of a slurry solution.
Landing
If everything turned out well, on a cool autumn day, you can renew the pit, put a prepared ground on its bottom, place a seedling on it, straighten all the roots on this earthen slide, gradually fall asleep. They do it carefully, pour it a little, then tamp it, then pour earth again. It is necessary to tamp the ground, and then pour water abundantly, make sure that there are no voids, the bush sits firmly, and the graft site is under the ground 5–8 cm below the surface and looks to the south. Some people advise to lower the root neck even lower, because over time the plant rises a little, and it can open, this can not be allowed. When all the water is absorbed, you should still fill the ground. This was the so-called dry method of planting. 
The wet method differs from it by the use of root growth stimulants, drugs like “Kornevina”. Such a drug is dissolved with water, at least one bucket is poured into the pit, and then the seedling is lowered there, gradually filling the roots with prepared soil. Then they also tamp, check, slightly pulling the top, whether the bush is firmly seated, fill up the ground, sprinkle it on top, mulch.
After 2 - 3 weeks, young plants will get used to a new place, they will have new roots, which means that in the spring they will start growing quickly. The gardener's next task is to cover them well for the winter. Before the very frosts, the bushes are shortened by at least a third, spud dry earth with sand, sawdust, dry leaves by 25 - 30 cm, cover for the winter. Best of all, young roses hibernate under spruce branches and lutrasil, they need to provide dry air under cover so that the shoots are not prone.
Video “phased landing”
From the video you will learn all the stages of proper planting bushes.
Rose - the most beautiful creature of all colors. It is not in vain that they call her the queen of the garden, because she is endowed with bright and catchy beauty that leaves an indelible mark on the soul. But before placing it in his garden, gardeners wonder whether it is possible to plant roses at a dacha in the fall, how to carry out the procedure correctly, what are the features and secrets. All the answers to these questions below!
When to plant roses in the fall, in which month
Many gardeners, especially beginners, wonder whether it is possible to plant roses in the fall. The answer is clear: autumn is the ideal time for planting roses. For this event, suitable and temperature, and humidity, and the state of the soil substrate. If you plant a young sapling in the last warm months, in the spring he will release his first buds.
As for when it is better to plant roses in the fall, specifically at what time, then most often the planting of seedlings begins in September and ends in late October. It all depends on where you live and the climate.
Attention! Planting roses in the fall should be completed 20-30 days before the first frost. At this time, the young sapling will have time to root well, additionally grow roots and prepare for wintering.
But you should not start planting at the end of August, as the early period of rooting of seedlings will make the buds begin to develop. This process may adversely affect the seedling when the first frost comes, which will weaken the young plant and may even cause death.
The ideal temperature for rooting is +10 .. + 15 C, while the night temperature should not fall below +5 .. + 10 0 C. It is during this period that the root system actively grows, and the kidneys remain in sleep mode.
Advantages and disadvantages of planting in the fall
To say when it is better to plant roses in spring or autumn is difficult enough, and opinions differ. Some believe that planting seedlings is only needed in the fall, so that the plant can immediately grow. Others believe that the best time is autumn.
There are several Advantages of autumn planting roses:
- If you plant the roses in the fall, in the spring they are better and more active in growth than those that were buried in the ground in early spring.
- In contrast to the spring months, September and October are characterized by high humidity. This weather has a positive effect on young seedlings, they quickly develop roots and are fixed in the ground.
- In autumn, precipitation in the form of rain falls more than in April or even more in May. During this period, the soil is moistened naturally, so there is no need to control the soil moisture.
- After the summer heat, the soil substrate does not have time to cool down, the temperature of the earth remains stable for a long time, which allows the plants to build up a good root system.
- There is no danger of frost in contrast to the return of spring sub-zero temperatures.
- A large number of saplings of different quality, since the spring sale often consists of last year’s old saplings left over from the autumn and not sold out on time.
But with all the advantages of autumn planting, there is several disadvantages:
- Early landing. If the planting is too early, the seedling will grow, green leaves will begin to appear. This process of activation will adversely affect the condition of the plant in winter.
- Late landing. Planting in late October-November faces a sharp change in the weather and the onset of frosty days. The plant does not have time to gain a foothold in the ground, freezes and dies.
- Shelter. Poor quality warming of a young seedling can be a problem for its continued existence. With the wrong cover, fungal diseases can form. All this depletes the strength of the plant, contributing to its death.
Video: Proper planting of roses in the fall and further care
How to plant roses in the fall - features and step by step instructions
There are certain nuances of the procedure that you need to know in order to properly plant the roses in the fall. Let's figure it out!
What should be a sapling and how to prepare it for planting in open ground
It is recommended to pick and buy seedlings of roses for planting in the fall in specialized stores or from reputable suppliers. If planting is planned in the near future, then it is best to purchase copies with an open root system. In this state, it is easy to see and see all the flaws and minuses of the plant.
The roots should be uniformly developed in all directions, brown in color, without strange spots, like rot. Seedlings must have at least 3 well-developed main shoots. They should be saturated green with a glossy shade, and also with sharp thorns, without unusual cracks or excess growths.
If the seedling is in a container with earth (that is, with a closed root system), then you need to check how the earth lags behind the pot to determine how long it has been there. If there are leaves on the plant - they must be saturated green in color, healthy in appearance and free from any stains on the leaf surface.
Video: planting roses in the fall with a closed root system
Sapling with an open root system before planting should be properly prepared.
To prepare roses with an open root system, do the following:
Video: planting roses in the fall with an open root system.
Landing place
What is the place to choose? Roses take root well in sunny, protected from the northern winds and drafts areas.
By the way! If the shrub is planted in the shade, it will reach for the light, bloom a little and hurt a lot. On the sunny south side of the plant will quickly lose moisture and fade in a short time. Therefore, you should choose a place where there is a lot of sunlight, but a few hours after noon there will be a light shadow.
It is not a good idea to place a rose garden near tall and thick trees that will surely create a strong shadow.
You should not plant a plant in the lowlands, where water often stagnates. The presence of high groundwater is also not desirable. Rose does not like excessive abundance of moisture. In such conditions the root system of the plant begins to rot, and the plant dies.
What soil is neededwhat to fertilize before planting
Of course, it is preferable to plant the roses in fertile soil. The soil should be loose, airy and well permeable to moisture.
Important! The selected site is not prepared before the procedure of planting seedlings, but at least a few weeks before this point.
The soil is carefully dug up to 40 centimeters and if necessary add dolomite flour or lime. This is required to reduce acidity, because the rose grows well only in neutral or slightly acidic soil. If the soil is heavy, then it is recommended to bring peat, sand and compost when digging.
Preparation of holes (their sizes) and optimum distance between seedlings
The next stage of landing is the preparation of the landing pit. The recess is dug to a depth of 40-50 cm. In width, it should be at least 50, and preferably 70 cm.
As for the distance between the seedlings, it varies depending on the variety of roses. Thus, polyanthus, hybrid tea and floribunda roses are planted at a distance of 30-60 centimeters from each other, park ones - 75-90 cm, climbing and standard - up to 100 cm.
Landing methods
Important!If you have clay soil, it is necessary to fill the drainage layer. For this fit broken brick, pebble or expanded clay. And already above the fertile earth is poured.
According to the first method (dry), before the procedure of planting on the bottom of a hole prepared in advance, a small mound is thrown. A sapling with roots spread out in different directions is set on top of it and covered with fertile soil. Next you need to tamp and plenty of water.
Note! It is very important to bury the seedling correctly, namely that its inoculation site (root collar) is located underground at a depth of 5 cm.
An exception. In standard roses - 10 cm.
In addition to this dry method, there is wet planting.
Second way requires the preparation of a solution of sodium humate, which is completely poured into the well. After the seedling is established, and all other procedures are performed in the same way as with the dry method of planting.
What method of planting guided, decide the gardener himself. Both methods have their own advantages.
Video: how to plant roses in the fall.
Departure after landing
After you plant roses, caring for young plants is very simple. Usually, watering are no longer required, because at this time the weather is wet in the fall. However, if the autumn is very dry, then it is necessary to water
AT top dressing plants also do not need. During the preparation of the soil, a sufficient amount of nutrition was made, which will last until spring. Therefore, the first dressing of roses after planting should be performed only after 2 years!
Further care is reduced to preparing the plant for the winter.
Features of landing in different regions
The optimal time for planting roses in the fall in the Middle Belt (Moscow region) is the whole of September. As a rule, the remaining time for a plant is enough to take root well and have time to adapt to winter.
In general, planting roses in the fall in the Urals and in Siberia is not recommended, it is better to postpone it until the fall, but if you still want to do it in the fall, then it is worth considering a few differences:
- The graft is buried somewhat deeper by 6-7 cm.
- The best time for landing is August-early September, in other words, the end of summer. When planting roses at a later date in autumn, the sapling will not have time to take root and will freeze out at the first frost.
Possible landing errors
Unfortunately, most gardeners who first took to plant roses in the fall on their backyard make a series of offensive and simple mistakes. To prevent them, before the event, you should carefully read the rules and terms of autumn planting.
The following errors are distinguished when planting roses in the fall:
- The opinion that a seedling planted in peat will grow well and develop - erroneously. The plant most often begins to rot, get sick often and eventually dies. The best option for rooting in open ground - loamy soil rich in minerals.
- During planting the roots are not straightened, and bent upwards. The arrangement of the roots in this form causes the plant problems, it grows slowly, develops poorly. Therefore, for rapid growth and budding in the first year after planting, it is recommended to monitor the correct placement of the roots.
- Too big graft intake inside the ground. The normal depth of inoculation is 5 cm. If the plant is planted significantly lower, then the bush begins to be oppressed, wither and die. It does not save any dressing, or abundant watering.
Attention!After planting, sow the plant well. If the earth subsided, it means that there are gaps in the empty space inside. They should be neutralized by well tamping the soil.
Thus, planting roses in the autumn period has its own rules and features. Worth listening to the opinion of experienced flower growers who have repeatedly planted varietal bushes. Otherwise, you can ruin a young sapling, having made all possible mistakes.
In contact with
Many gardeners do not know how to plant a rosewhat is needed carehow to successfully prepare roses for the winter. It is a mistake to assume that the culture of roses in our Ural and Siberian conditions is extremely unreliable and laborious. Also scared flower lovers and high prices rosesespecially if it is vaccinated.
There is also very little literature on the cultivation of roses in the Urals and Siberia. All this prompts to write about the 10 most necessary rules of planting and caring for roses. Here 30 years experience of successful reproduction and cultivation of roses in the open and closed ground of the agronomists of the Urals and Siberia is gathered.
Take note of these simple rules on rose care, and they will delight you over the years with abundant flowering.
RULE №1
Buy planting material is not southern varieties, and mostly Russian or Dutch production, necessarily grafted and healthy.
If you plan to grow roses in a heated greenhouse, then you can purchase more southern varieties.
RULE №2
Rose planting material is best purchase in spring, to plant out - when the soil warms up well, in the second half of May. It is good to plant a rose with the fertilizer PLANTA MIRACLE GROWTH, or with any organic fertilizer.
Experience shows that planting roses in the fall in the ground or in a greenhouse in the conditions of the Urals and Siberia often fails. But if all the same you purchased a rose in early autumn, in September, then it is recommended prikopat it until spring in the cellarwhile providing a positive temperature.
Or you can thickly plant it as a tomato seedling, in a heated room.
Do not cut flowers and cuttings for young and underdeveloped bushes is unacceptable! Buds and excess shoots when they are isolated are plucked out.
Faded flowers on strong bushes removed with 1 or 2 leaves, otherwise the seed may start growing and re-flowering will be weak.
RULE №5
Water under the bush, plentifullyso that the earth is soaked with moisture on about 5 meters. In dry weather, the interval between irrigation in two weeks.
Combine watering with liquid dressings (rose shedding), 1:10 mullein infusion, or 1:20 infusion of chicken manure, ashes, herbs, Baikal-EM, Planta, Rich, microbiological fertilizer. It is advisable not to use mineral fertilizers in the first year. In the following years, up to 6 additional feedings per season are carried out, alternating organic with mineral fertilizers.
In the cold, rainy weather does not absorb substances from the earth, so spend foliar top dressing (spraying), it will improve the condition of the plant, increase the number and size of flowers.
Until the end of July it is desirable that nitrogen fertilizers prevailed in dressings, and in August for better stiffness of the bushes - potash and phosphate fertilizers, ash.
Top dressing after the first year:
in the spring, before the leaves bloom, after removing the cover and trim: ammonium nitrate 30 grams per 1 square. m. (or urea 1st.l per 10 liters of water).
In two weeks - to repeat. Nitrogen will increase the weight of the plant, affect the growth of shoots.
third dressing - the beginning of budding: complex mineral supplements (KEMIRA, FERTIKA, AGRICOLA FOR ROSES, HEALTH FOR ROSES, etc.)
fourth dressing - before the first flowering: a solution of mullein, or a solution of HUMATE, or a solution of BAIKAL EM.
fifth dressing - end of July-beginning of August, after the first flowering - complex mineral fertilizer.
last one sixth top dressing- superphosphate and potassium salt (potassium).
During transplants, pruning, cutting of flowers, as well as during the period of cold snap, or drought very useful spraying drug EPIN EXTRA.
RULE №6
As a rule, the largest, central bud is left in the inflorescences, and the extra sides are plucked out. So do the shoots growing from one bud - leaving only one, the strongest, which grows from the center of the bush to the outside.
RULE №7
At the first signs of the destruction of the bushes with pests and diseases (plaque, spots), chemical treatment is carried out. FITOVERM, AKTELLIK, FUFANON, AGRAVERTIN, INTAVIR from harm, TOPAZ, FITOSPORIN - from diseases. Treatment against pests carried out twice with a break of 7 days.
RULE №8
Pruned bushes in two terms. In autumn, in early October, do basic pruning. Remove non-lignified shoots to hardwood. From shortly cut bushes remove all the leaves. Leave the most developed, strong branches, and small and sick are removed. Garbage and trim burned.
In the spring, in the month of May, after the full winter opening of the bushes, all brown, dead and rotten parts are removed. If at least two or three healthy buds remain, the bush will grow well and bloom.
Remontny grades pruned leaving the shoots longer (about 20 cm), these varieties bloom at last year's growth.
RULE №9
When growing up wild growth (as a rule, it is typical for bushes grafted on dog-rose), it is pulled out of the ground and cut off from the root. Above ground, cutting the growth - a useless exercise.
RULE №10
For the winter roses best to cover sawdust or small chips.
Against frost damageupon the occurrence august - 5-10 cm podokuchivayut sawdust base bushes (root neck). BUT in the first decade of October after pruning, the bushes are filled with sawdust to the top, "with the head," closing the resulting mound with a film, box, box, tarpaulin, roofing felt, etc. The shelter must be pressed with some kind of nest.
It is impossible in the Urals and Siberia spud bushes for the winter with earth, damp leaf, humus and other materials. Because unlike other areas of our country, we have less lignification of shoots, and therefore, in the spring, rose bushes often undermine.
In winter you need to spud snow. Shelters are removed in late May in cloudy weather, because from the bright sun the bush immediately will burn.
In clear, sunny weather, an open bush is shrouded in a box, bucket, paper, covering material for several days, and the base of the bush should be closed until June 10 — when the return frost has run out and the first new shoots begin to grow.
VARIETIES OF ROSES
Popular groups: floribunda and tea-hybrid - a variety of colors, beauty and the ability to continuously bloom throughout the season, makes these varieties the most popular.
Polycanthus roses and grandiflora (very similar to floribunda) are less popular.
Hybrid Tea Roses
stand out a variety of colors, graceful, elongated, large - up to 18cm flowers. Can be semi-double (up to 20 petals in a flower), and double glazed - from 100 and more petals. Have a varied nice smell.
As a rule, single flowers, but may be in small inflorescences. The leaf is large, often leathery, shiny. Thorns on young shoots reddish, large, rare. Bush height from 60 to 140 cm, straight, can sometimes be sprawling.
Polyanthus roses
Small bush up to 40 cm, compact, dense, strongly branched with small flowers (up to 4 cm) pink or red colors rarely whites, some varieties - orange. Yellow colored flowers in typical polyanthus roses no. May have a scent, terry - from semi-double to thick-double.
Inflorescences are large, many-flowerednumbering from 20 to 100 resistant flowers with long-lasting brightness of color. Bloom continuous, abundant, until late autumn.
Floribunda
They have a huge variety, are inferior to tea and hybrid roses in their aroma, beauty and size of a flower, but superior in winter hardiness and very abundant, almost continuous flowering.
Bush from 50 to 120 cm, straight, spreading, with leathery, shiny leaves. The flowers are simple, semi-double or densely double. Form from cupped to goblet from 4 to 10 cm in diameter, collected in often fragrant inflorescences of various sizes.
Grandiflora
By crossing varieties floribunda and a tea-hybrid A new, small group of large-flowered garden roses was obtained - grandflora.
Variety with large buds and abundant, long flowering floribunda like. And the shape and size of the flower like a tea hybrid rose,but superior to both varieties on winter hardiness and growth.
We continue to talk about the rose - about this magical creation of nature.
From the previous articles we have learned what should be guided when choosing for your garden and how to choose.
Now we have come to the fore another concern - the right one.
Our beauty has come to grow up and begin to live in the garden, delighting the delicate fragrance of its owner.
But it will be provided that the owner knows how to plant roses and skillfully approaches this responsible mission.
After all, it is one of the most important events on which the fate of the rosebush depends.
When to plant
Roses can be planted in two periods: in spring and autumn. Under the conditions of an average Russian strip, it is safer (according to experts) to land in spring.
But on condition of warming up the soil to + 10-12 ° С and before the start of bud break.
As a rule, it is the middle of April and the second decade of May.
- Ideally, seedlings should be best taken in containers. Plant them only in the spring by handling earthen coma. For many varieties of roses only spring disembarkation is acceptable (ask about this nuance when purchasing seedlings).
But planting roses in spring has its drawbacks. Such roses can lag behind in growth (compared to autumn seedlings). This gap is about two weeks.
Also, these queens are more capricious and require more care and attention.
Autumn planting of roses is better to plan in the middle of September-mid-October.
If the timing of the event to move, the roses will not have time to get stronger before the first frost. It is very important that the plant buds have not yet begun to develop.
- After 10-12 days after the autumn planting, the roses form small young roots that have time to gain strength before frost and feel great in a dry shelter until the very spring. In spring, young plants very quickly form a strong, healthy shrub.
If you do not have time to plant in the fall and do not want the seedlings to disappear, you can try to save them until spring, prikopat.
To do this, shorten the stems and cut the roots to 30 cm. In this case, callus forms on the roots (callus, which occurs at the site of the wound). From callus in the spring and healthy roots will develop.
Planting roses - choosing a place
The rose loves heat and sunlight (some of its varieties also feel great in shady places), does not tolerate drafts, and at the same time respects fresh air.
The ideal place for planting roses is a well-lit area (but without getting into the midday sun rays), sheltered from the cold north winds.
Best of all choose a small, south-facing slope. The optimum level of occurrence of preferred waters is at least 1.5-2 m.
- You can not plant roses in low-lying areas (meltwater stagnates there, and cold air accumulates). Also, do not plant young bushes in a place where roses have already grown. If this is not possible, replace the soil layer by half a meter..
The designer speaks to you
How to plant roses? Traditionally, we all try to plant beautiful plants closer to home.
This is a good idea, as the house will serve as a shelter from the wind and the hot sun and at the same time create an excellent background for beautiful flowers.
Here you need to apply the knowledge of color (harmonious combination of colors).
- The construction or fence of a light shade is effectively emphasized by roses with rich, vivid flowers. And if the wall of the house is dark, then it is better to use roses of light, pastel or white colors.
But planting roses should not be too close to home - it will be difficult for you to take care of plants, and even a close landing can harm the building. The optimal distance is 40-50 cm from the wall (fence).
- Many-flowered varieties of roses that bloom all summer, better planted in a prominent place (near the gazebo, benches, areas for recreation, etc.).
- Floribunda looks very impressive on the edge of the lawn (in the middle of the lawn, it is better not to plant roses, since lawn care has a different specificity). Also these types are good for creating hedges.
- Tea and tea hybrid species are ideal for flower beds (it is better to make them of small sizes from 3-5 bushes of the same variety).
- Climbing varieties. Planting rose climbing seedlings will give an amazing look to the gazebo, veranda, any arch, fence, wall of the house. A place for these varieties can be given at the edges of lawns.
- Wild roses will decorate the border area and will be very useful there: thorny shoots will protect the area from the penetration of uninvited animals and additionally attract birds that are very fond of the fruits of wild shrubs.
If you plan to plant a dense planting of roses, Crocus, Primrose, Aubrieta, Rezuha, Violet, Ageratum and Alpine phlox are ideal neighbors for pink bushes.
Hybrid tea varieties are suitable for admiring roses, and use Floribunda to create bright, attractive spots from afar.
Ideal soil
Roses love fertile, moisture and breathable loams with acid reaction pH 5.5-6.5.
When too oxidized land must be skipped. But do not get carried away - on leaf alkaline soil roses may develop chlorosis.
- To determine the acidity of the soil, you can use the litmus test. Mix some soil with water and put the litmus in there. In the case of acidic soil, the paper turns red, if the soil is alkaline, it becomes blue.
For beauties will not fit light sandy and heavy clay soil. Such soils can be adjusted: add loamy sand (3 parts), sod, humus and compost (1 part).
In the clay - coarse sand (6 parts), leaf, sod land, compost and humus (1 part).
In sandstones - turfy ground and finely crushed clay (2 parts), compost or humus (1 part).
The land should be checked and prepared in advance (for spring planting of roses from autumn, for autumn 30-35 days before planting the seedlings).
This period is enough for the components of the soil to mix well, and the earth will precipitate.
The soil must be carefully dig up to a depth of 60 cm.
Cooking pits for landing
In the place intended for the planting of rose bushes, we dig out holes with dimensions of 60x60 cm and a depth of 70 cm. Lay the upper part of the ground (fertile layer) on the edge of the pits.
At the bottom of each hole lay a drainage layer of small pebbles, broken bricks and gravel.
On top of the drainage we pour a layer of 40 cm of a prepared mixture of soil and fertilizer, and sprinkle the pits on top with a fertile layer.
Mix for wells:
- Garden land 2 buckets.
- Bonemeal 2 glasses.
- Superphosphate 1-2 handfuls.
- Dolomite flour 1-2 glasses.
- Crushed to a clay powder 1 bucket.
- Humus, peat, fine sand, 1 bucket.
We prepare pits for planting roses 10-14 days before the seedlings appear there. The earth at this time will have time to settle, otherwise the rosette can go deep into the ground.
The distance between the pits for plants depends on the type of rose and the purpose of the planting itself:
- Between the bush: 150-300 cm.
- Low and sprawling: 40-60 cm.
- Curly (weakly growing: 200 cm, strongly growing: 300-500 cm).
- Beds (poorly growing: 30-40 cm, strongly growing: 40-60 cm).
- Soil creeping (weakly growing: 40-60 cm, strongly growing: 100 cm).
Preparation of young seedlings
◊ Shoot. All the damaged and dried shoots we need to cut under the first bud.
Healthy shoots must also be cut, but (for stronger seedlings, 5 buds are left; for seedlings of average strength and quality, 3 buds, with a weakened state of the seedlings, the shoots should be shortened to almost the entire length, leaving 3 mm at the base).
When spring planting roses save:
- Floribunda: 3-4 buds.
- Hybrid tea: 2-3 buds.
- Low polyanthic: 2-3 buds.
- Rambler groups Rambler: shoots are trimmed to 35 cm.
- Tall: you can shorten the shoots of 10-15 cm for early flowering.
- Miniature and park varieties do not cut, shoots need only slightly refresh (cut the tops).
◊ Roots. Inspect the roots: we chop up the rumped ones, dive good ones 1-2 cm from the tip. Then we lower the roots in a solution of water and "Kornevina", holding them there for several hours.
Before planting roses, the roots of the plant are cut to 20-25 cm, damaged ones are removed before the start of healthy tissue.
A day before planting the roses we place for 11-12 hours in a container with water. Then we moisten the roots with a mixture of clay and mullein (proportion 3x1), adding a heteroauxin tablet to the solution bucket (dissolve the tablet in water).
Packing Features
Saplings of roses can be found in completely different packages. Features of the form in which the young rose was sold should be taken into account when preparing the plant for planting:
♦ Polyethylene cylinders. Baltic producers like to pack rose seedlings in plastic cylinders, tubes without a bottom.
In this packaging, the plants are from the very moment of vaccination, so they can be easily planted without destroying the land coma. But before planting, carefully inspect the roots.
- If the roots are light, directed outward - the plant can be planted immediately. And if the light roots are not enough, they are tangled - in this case, gently straighten the roots, cut them dry. It is imperative to ensure that the roots are directed outward downwards. If seedlings in cylinders need to be saved, store them in a pot, pre-releasing from the package.
♦ Seedlings grown on light peat bogs in greenhouses. Based on the experience of gardeners, these seedlings need to be planted, breaking the earthy bed (by the way, contrary to many literary directions).
As a rule, the pots of such seedlings are small, and the roots densely entangle the earth, forming a kind of "felt". The roots cannot get out of such a coma on their own; roses do not take root in a new place for a long time and often die.
- Be sure to remove the seedling from the pot before planting and soak in water so that all the air comes out of the earthy coma. Then remove the outer layer of roots with a sharp knife. Wash the roots of the seedlings from the ground, but do not touch them at the base. Then straighten the roots and plant a rose.
♦ Net packaging. The manufacturer says that the seedlings in the net container can be planted right in it. But according to the experience of gardeners, planting roses in a grid very often gives poor results. Saplings poorly take root.
Therefore, try to partially violate the integrity of the grid before planting and straighten the surface roots (cutting rotten or dry).
Planting roses
During the planting of seedlings closely monitor the site of vaccination (this is part of the root, where shoots start to grow from). Grafting should be 3-5 cm below the ground surface.
Thus, the rose will receive protection from the heat of the sun and the winter cold. And additional shoots will not develop from the vaccination - they inhibit the growth and development of the main ones.
If the soil settles, add soil mixture to prevent the formation of holes, otherwise the roots may begin to rot from excess moisture.
Ways of landing. There are two known ways of planting roses, which are well proven:
◊ Dry method. This method is suitable for areas with high humidity. At the bottom of the prepared hole we make a small earthen roller - on it we will lay out the roots of the flower.
Plant a rose is better together. One holds a bush and gently places it in the hole. The second straightens the roots and gently falls asleep their soil mixture, compacting the plant with his hands.
Then the rose bush is poured abundantly with water (for each bush there are 10 l of water). After 2-3 days, the soil is loosened and spud up to a height of 10 cm (up to the level of shoots cuts).
If this is not done, the shoots of roses can dry out (especially in hot weather).
- Loss of moisture often leads to the death of a rose. To avoid this, create an additional cover for your beauty in the form of mounds of wet moss or raw sawdust. If these mounds are too thick, slightly loosen them.
If your rose caught on - after 10-15 days the first young shoots will appear. As soon as you notice them, you can unleash the plant. This procedure is best done in cloudy times.
◊ Wet way. This planting of roses is best suited for regions where the arid climate. A bucket of water is poured into the prepared pit (dissolve a heteroauxin tablet in it, you can add a solution of Humate Sodium the color of strong tea).
One person can cope with such an operation. With one hand, lower the seedling directly into the water, with the other hand fill the pit with water-soil mixture.
A mixture of land and water perfectly fills the entire space between the roots without the formation of voids.
When planting, periodically shake the bush and thoroughly compact the ground. Watering is not needed.
If you sow the soil, the next day, raise the seedling a little, add earth and roll it 10-15 cm. After planting, pritenite a young rose for 10-12 days.
Nuances of planting seedlings of various kinds
♦ Park. For the planting of roses of this type of pit, it is necessary to do a little more: 90x90 cm, 70 cm deep. It is important that there are no voids in the row of plantings, if it happened - fill the empty places with annual flowers.
Planting density for park roses is important so that plants do not give a lot of root shoots, which must then be removed.
♦ Tea and Floribunda. For these beauties, the best landing time is spring. For tea roses will need support for climbing shoots.
Pits for plants of such species can be made a little smaller: 50x50 cm with a distance of about 50 cm.
♦ Hybrid tea. Of all the types of roses, hybrid tea are the most fastidious of heat, so these roses should be planted in May (subject to the onset of stable warm weather).
The way of landing for her is better suited "wet." Do not let these roses bloom for a couple of weeks (to do this, cut the first 4-6 buds).
♦ Climbing. Roses of these species can be planted in spring and autumn. When planting, immerse in the ground a place of vaccination a little deeper than accepted (10-12 cm).
This species needs support (the distance between the support and the stem of a rose is not more than 50 cm) and shelter for the winter.
Before planting roses lash need to cut to a height of 30-35 cm and shorten the roots.
When planting, climbing roses are slightly tilted to the support, and the roots are directed away from the support.
♦ Ground level. For such roses is very important the complete absence of weeds in their area. It is best to ground the earth after getting rid of weeds bark or sawdust.
After all, the root system of groundwater completely covers the whole earth with very flexible and thorny shoots.
Well, dear readers, one of the most difficult and important stages is completed. Our roses are planted in the garden.
The further fate of gentle beauties will depend entirely on your attention and competent care. About and caring for our rose garden, as well as about roses, about possible - we'll talk in the next article.
See you soon, dear readers!
