Sailing ships are divided into frigates and battleships. The most powerful three-masted ships are linear, which are characterized by displacement, armament and the size of the crew.

This class of sailing ships originates from the seventeenth century, with the advent of artillery (cannons), which is able to conduct linear combat (simultaneously with all onboard guns from the line).
In a shortened version, they are called "battleships".





Drawings of models for free download, you can on the website or from other sources.

In May 1715, the Russian gun battleship of the 3rd rank "Ingermanland" (64 guns) was launched from the Admiralty shipyard of the city of St. Petersburg. Peter I himself took part in the development of his drawings. The battleship had impressive dimensions for that time: length - 52m; width - 14m; hold depth - 6m. Peter's gold standard was hoisted on his mast. This ship was for a long time the flagship of the Russian fleet.

Ship ranks in sailing fleet:

  • The first rank is a three-deck or four-deck, the largest sailing ship (from sixty to one hundred and thirty guns).
  • The second rank is a three-deck (ship with three decks) (from forty to ninety-eight guns).
  • The third rank is a two-child (from thirty to eighty-four guns).
  • The fourth rank is a two-child (from twenty to sixty guns).

L "Artemise



Artemiz was a frigate of the French fleet. The class of the Magicienne frigate is 600 tons, 32 cannons are on board, 26 of them are twelve long cannons and 6 are sixflooms. The frigate was laid in Toulon in December 1791. It was 44 meters long 20 centimeters .

Frigates, called military single-deck or two-deck three-masted ships. They differed from battleships in smaller sizes. Their mission is a cruising service, reconnaissance (long-range), a sudden attack on an object with a view to further capture or destruction. The largest models were called linear frigates. According to statistics, download free models of frigates more than battleships.

For lovers of modeling, sheets of compressed and glued wooden veneer have always been one of the most sought-after materials. They are easy to cut, they are beautifully processed, the drawings of ships made of plywood are easy to find on the net, and therefore many craftsmen begin their acquaintance with the design of various vessels with plywood patterns.


Making your own models is a very difficult task, requiring considerable baggage of knowledge and a certain skill. In the article we will tell only about the most basic techniques, and further skill you will hone yourself.

Materials for work

If you want to make a small ship model, then you will need the following materials:

  • Wood - cedar, linden, walnut or other wood, preferably soft and non-fibrous. Wood blanks should be smooth, without knots and damage. Wood can be used both as a material for the main elements of the model (hull, deck), and for fine detailing.
  • Plywood - perhaps the most requested material. For shipmodelling, either balsa or birch is used, since it is these kinds of wood that provide the minimum amount of chipping during sawing. Model ship plywood, as a rule, has a thickness of from 0.8 to 2 mm.

Note! Sheets of beech veneer of small thickness are sometimes used as an alternative to birch: although they are inferior in strength, they will bend much more easily.

  • Veneer - thin plates of natural wood expensive species. As a rule, it is used for veneering, i.e. Pasting of a surface from inexpensive material.
  • Fasteners - thin chains, laces, threads, brass and copper studs.

In addition, we will definitely need glue for wood, cardboard and tracing paper to transfer templates, etc. Fine detail made of metal casting. As an alternative to metal, colored polymer clay can be used.

Making a souvenir boat

Preparation for work

Any work begins with preparation, and modeling is by no means an exception.

  • First you need to decide what we will build. If you have not previously dealt with shipbuilding art, then we recommend downloading the ship's drawings from plywood on the net: as a rule, they contain all the necessary information and are understandable even to a beginner.

Note! Available kits that allow you to assemble a vessel of finished parts. Such kits will be interesting to beginners (although the price of most of them is quite substantial), but it is better to master the technology from the beginning.

  • After analyzing the drawing, we check whether everything necessary is available. In principle, if something is missing, then it will be possible to purchase a bit later, because building a ship (albeit a miniature one) is not a quick job!

  • Having printed out the drawing, we make templates of the main details.
  • We transfer templates to.

Cut and collect parts

Cutting blanks can be either using a manual or using an electric model jigsaw.

The latter is more expensive, but with it you will spend less time on cutting out small parts:

  • In a plywood sheet, we make a starting hole into which we insert a file or jigsaw blade.
  • We cut out the part, trying to move exactly along the marked contour.
  • Cut the workpiece file is processed, removing small chamfers at the edges and removing the inevitable chips and burrs.

Tip! Working on one element (deck, sides, keel, etc.), we immediately cut out all the parts necessary for assembly. So we will spend significantly less time, and work will move faster.


When everything is ready, we begin to build our ship.


  • First, we put on the transverse frames on the longitudinal beam - keel. At the bottom of each frame is usually provided a groove for fastening to the plywood keel.
  • Standard glue can be used for joining, and special adhesive mixtures designed for ship modeling can be used.
  • The tops of the frames fastened to the deck. For simple models, the deck is a single sheet of plywood, and for complex ones it can be multi-layered.
  • After the glue on the frames has dried, we begin to sheathe the beads with thin strips of plywood. The thickness of the material should be no more than 1.5 mm, since only in this case can we bend the casing without the risk of damaging it.
  • For bending, it can be heated and moistened. After that, the material will bend without difficulty, and over time - will acquire a stable form.

Note! The body for painting can be pasted over with a solid sheet. But to simulate the boarding is better to use strips up to 10 mm wide (depending on the scale).


  • Fix glued plywood with clamps and clamps and leave to dry.

Final finish

By and large, on this carpentry skill is completed, and art begins.

When the body is assembled and dried, we need:

  • Make of thin plywood and fix deck superstructures.

  • Build up the sides so that they protrude above the deck.
  • The surface of the deck to glue the wood veneer or draw out with the help of awls, simulating the plank paneling.
  • Make and install all the small parts like the steering wheel and the steering blade.
  • Fasten the masts with all additional devices (the so-called mast), set the sails and stretch the whole structure with the help of rigging threads.

In conclusion, all the plywood parts need to be processed with a stain and repainted. This will provide our souvenir at least a couple of decades of preservation.

Conclusion


Practically everyone can do a simple ship made of plywood with their own hands - enough patience and minimal skills to work with a jigsaw (also read the article). But if you want to implement a complex drawing with many small details, then you have to work hard. That is why we advise you to start with the simplest models, gradually increasing the skill!

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Related materials

You can create a model of an old ship yourself, without buying a ready-made design for assembly. To get a high-quality result, you will have to show a lot of patience and perseverance.

Materials

To make a historic ship with your own hands, prepare:

  • plywood or cork;
  • thin strips of wood, bamboo or rattan;
  • wood glue;
  • paper;
  • pencil.

    • In this model of the ship, not a plywood, but a cork tree was used as the base. The choice was due to the simplicity of work with the material. Unlike plywood, where you need a saw for trimming, everything was done with a cork tree with a simple sharp knife. Thin strips for work can also be taken from any material, they just have to bend well. Joiner's glue should not be replaced with either hot or super glue.

    Step 1. On paper you need to draw the main details of the future ship. You can also print them if you find suitable layouts on the Internet. Please note that during the course of your work, your ideas may change a little. This is not critical if you just want to build a ship in the old style, and not to repeat an exact copy of a particular ship.

    Step 2. For convenience, work with the ship was divided into several parts. Also going to the ship itself. The main time took the manufacture of the central part of the ship. Then the front, rear and deck parts with the mast were made.

    Step 3. First of all, using the sketches already available, make a skeleton of a ship. Be sure to make sure all its edges are symmetrical. If somewhere there is a slight deviation - correct these flaws. Check that when attaching the ribs exactly become at a 90 degree angle.

    Step 4. After the skeleton is ready, start making out its side parts. To do this, glue the long rail along the center line of the side. Focus on it further when you stick the rest. Reiki is better to stick in stages to facilitate the work itself. Apply enough glue, but make sure that it does not drain on the slats. Fasten the racks with clips, leaving them in this form until the glue is completely dry. After the glue is dry, remove the clips and continue to glue the slats in the next section.

    Step 5. All places where gaps between the slats are formed, work through with epoxy resin. All parts of the ship as ready to varnish for wood.

    Step 6. After the main work, go to the finish. You can hide all possible aesthetic flaws at this stage. To do this, on top of places with obvious defects, gently glue the slats hiding them. From rattan you can make a horizontal line, emphasizing the smooth shapes of the ship. The basis of the ship is ready.

    Step 7. Masts need to be made of wooden rods and small flat pieces of wood. There will be two masts in the ship. Rods pre-fit to the calculated size. To fix the masts, cut two pieces of wood measuring 4 x 2 cm. Drill holes in them for the mast rods. Make a reinforcing grid from small rods and assemble the entire structure.

    Step 8. Make a template for the deck of the ship from paper and on the basis of it build the deck part of wooden strips. After letting it dry thoroughly, drill holes for mounting the masts. Insert and glue the masts. Make plywood from the plywood of the ship.

    Step 9. Similarly, glue the wooden strips in the front and rear of the ship. They need to be glued to the side and in the deck part, and to make rods and handrails from pieces of plywood. All details are fastened with wood glue. Do not forget to lift the back of the ship in steps.

Some people have a strange, but very remarkable and colorful hobby. It carries the name - assembly of models of the ships from a tree. What you need to make such a beautiful thing. It is not so easy to create a model from a tree. In this article you will learn how to create a tree of their own hands. And also we will make a small excursion into history.

Francis Drake

Many history buffs know the name of the Iron Pirate. England was his birthplace. He became captain of a sailing ship just at the age of 16 years. At first he was a ship priest, and then a simple sailor. But his fame really thundered when he became a brave and very formidable pirate. In the 16th century, he made quite a few voyages and took part in a considerable number of battles.

Golden Hind

At the moment of the dawn of fate, several sailing ships arrived at his property. Its main flagship was the ship "Pelican". This ship was a five-deck three-mast. On board there were 20 artillery weapons. All sorts of sea stories rarely tell us that a ship that already has a name can be renamed, but it is with the “Pelican” that this fate happened by the will of fate. In 1578, Francis Drake changed the name of this ship to "Golden Hind" (in Russian this name sounds like "Golden Hind"). It was under this second that was inscribed in glittering golden letters in the world history of navigators. Francis Drake committed on it quite a few dizzying deeds, which later were told in history and adventure books.

It is such wonderful ships that make many collect models of ships from wood with their own hands. Drawings of many such designs can often be found on the Internet. So, inspired by the old history of navigation, we learn from this article information on how to do something like that.

Model of a ship made of wood with their own hands: from start to rainbow horizons

In fact, the history of modeling consists of several stages. In addition, each of these stages is associated with several signs. A lover of miniature shipbuilding should be able to change the available materials. It is also important to expand the choice of modeling objects. After he has developed enough, then he may have a mass production of models. The next stage will be the development of stand exhibition models from those sets that he already has. Subsequently, you can develop to the formation of individual segments. It can be anything from ship models and into the flesh to copies of individual motorcycles, trucks, as well as all kinds of other cars.

Do-it-yourself wooden ship models: drawings, instructions, tools

So, well, let's get down to creating such a ship. Cutting prefabricated ship models from wood is not an easy task. You will need many tools for this. Among them are: a knife, a chisel, a hammer, a bar (and, if necessary, a saw), a thin fabric, a superglue, a long wooden spire, a rope, a drill. In addition, you will need two more important parameters. Firstly, this is time, and secondly, the important quality of those people who are engaged in creating prefabricated models of wooden ships is patience.

Cutting a ship from wood

To start have to work chisel. You must file all the files plus remove the old bolts that have a flat head. It will not take you so much time - just two minutes. In these two minutes, the pre-processed bar will later become a ship. Now you need to clear the bar. You should gently scrape the bark. Keep the bar itself directly in the direction of the tool. Take the standard design as an example for our small ship models, which we will build on the principle below. Take a pencil and sketch a preliminary sketch on a bar. In the wake of this process the bar with a sharp knife. The tilting of the blade itself should be at an angle of about 10 degrees. When planing, keep in mind that this is not the easiest job, and therefore be patient. You should not forget that if for any reason you make a mistake, it will be quite difficult to fix everything. Remove the chips layer by layer, while you should try and process the original bar as smoothly as possible. It is important that the upper and lower parts should be parallel.

Please note that you do not need to throw chips. The fact is that, in principle, it can be used as additional material as mulch.

Carving the front and sides of the ship

Well, now we need to draw the front, bottom, as well as the back. We will cut them in exactly the same way as it was mentioned above. It is necessary to make these parts even. In order for you to get the nose of the ship, you will have to cut off a piece in front. In the wake of this, you should round off the saw with a knife. When you make the nose, try to tilt the blade itself back. It should be directed to the stern.

Drilling holes and subsequent installation of equipment

You should have several spiers. Therefore, drill a certain number of holes, they should be somewhat larger than the beams themselves. It is important in this case that the holes were not too many. Otherwise you may have a crack. And because of the crack, as you know, a severe disaster can happen - go to flow. Do not use glue! If you do this, further work will go through with much greater difficulty.

Installation of sails on the model

Decide, for a start, how many panels you want to get on your final ship. We take for the condition that we will have four panels for the first mast and the second, and three for the last. In the wake of this, take a few wooden spiers and cut. Cut out the trapezoid-shaped fabric. Then start to glue them. Make a notch on the twigs of the sails, fasten each twig with a corresponding notch. Then glue the middle edges to the sails. Repeat the same for all masts. It is best if you build the back mast first, then the middle mast, then the nasal mast.

Now let's install the top flying sail. Cut the fabric out of the shape of a kite. Take the thread and attach it to the opposite corner of the cloth. Leave the ends on either side for all angles. Glue a small piece of thread on the top of the boat. It should be slightly higher than the nose of the boat itself. Measure the part from the opposite angle up to the middle of the lower branch of the sail on the front mast. Then the thread itself, which you measured, cut and glue the tip to the appropriate place.

On each side you should leave some strings. Pull them back and stick them straight inside the boat. Then you can cut off the extra rope. Similarly, create and attach the rear panel. It should be attached to the back of the rear sail. Measure, trim, and make sure that it fits two overhangs. Then glue them in the corners.

Well, now you have learned how to make the simplest models of ships from wood. And although in this article everything is described only in general terms, we hope that it will help you in your future career as a “shipbuilder”. Unless, of course, you are interested in this. Believe me, this is a good lesson!

Frigate Scarlet Sails

Step-by-step instruction

manufacturing

CHINESE JONK

CHINESE JONK
So we got to the main part of the site.
  I will give you approximate dimensions
since I did the ship by eye and did not really pay attention to size. I did not record them exactly but there are some. I will not torment you with marine terms because I myself am not strong in them, but I will write in a generally accessible language. Well, you know the basic terms. Such as deck, mast, ray, keel. Here we will begin our work from the keel. But first we will do some preparatory work. We take a sheet of veneer with a bed on some kind of plywood or board, and apply it well with glue. Fix the buttons that the sheet would not curl when drying. Getting to the keel, length 45 cm
  The height of the front of 12 cm rear 8 cm. If the size of the height will be more than anything terrible, you can always cut off the excess. After the keel is cut out, we work it with a little sandpaper. Remove the gloss, and if there is a texture coating, then we remove it completely.
Spread glue on one side and leave to dry. You can smear with two, as you prefer. While everything is drying, we are doing the marking of the edges of the ship. We make one template. Edge width 16 cm, height 6 cm. The depth of the slot for inserting the keel 1.5 - 2 cm. The width of the slot is equal to the thickness of the veneered keel. Next, proceed to the veneer keel. Who does not know how to do it
telling Veneer mode on the strip slightly greater than the width of the keel. We turn on the iron at full power, but that when veneer does not burn the veneer. We put the veneer on the keel and iron it until full gluing. Excess veneer cut and clean sandpaper, stuffed on the bar.
After the keel is veneered, we will make a deck and we will do the rest of the ship's ribs. The length of the deck is 45 cm, width 16 cm. We measure 15 cm on one side, this will be the beginning of the bow rounding. We measure 11 cm from the back, it will also be the beginning of rounding. The width of the rear part of the deck is 4.5 cm. In photo 5 you can see the deck. Now we have a problem with the rest of the ribs. Since our keel is curved on the inside, the height of the ribs will naturally vary in relation to the inside of the keel to the deck. I will try to explain how to do it better. Himself
  understood only when I made the fifth ship. And so begin. We lay the keel on a piece of fiberboard as shown in photo 1. From the front of the note, 8 cm also from the back. And draw stripes on the keel. Should get something like this
rear side 8 cm, front 5 cm. At the front of the keel we make a step for the deck abutment (photo 5). Next, try on the deck, cut off the excess, and turn to the top with a keel. Find the lowest point between the keel and the deck and set the first edge. Immediately make marks on the keel and on the deck where you install the ribs. Make the next edge. It will be set to mark the beginning of the rounding of the front of the deck.
  Edge width 16 cm. Measuring height from deck to keel, taking into account the slot. Example. The width of the rib is 14 cm. The height from the inside of the keel to the deck is 3 cm + the depth of the notch is 2 cm and that of 5 cm. Then we take the first blank template. We lie on the rectangle of the future rib, combining the upper part and the upper right corner. Outline on the contour. Do the same with the left corner. The height of the workpiece will change but the basic configuration of the edge
will persist. We also do the back part and one edge between them. After this we make the edges of the nose of the model. The approximate distance between the ribs 3 cm. The same with the rear. After the ribs are ready and fitted we glue them, we give it anchored and glue the deck.
  When this is done, we do the inserts between the ribs around the perimeter. Then we clean everything and make bevels on the edges of the bow and rear of the ship. After that, we cut off a piece of veneer from the veneer sheet to the size of the central part of the ship, coat it with glue, give it a little dry and glue it with the help of an iron. We start the most labor-intensive work by fanning the bottom of the ship with stripes. I have them
width equal to 6 mm. Take the prepared sheet of veneer and cut it. After the strips are cut, it is necessary to process the edges, smooth out the burrs and small irregularities. Stripes with glue in the central part
ship one to one to the nose and to the rear of the ship overlap. Pre-namaz fresh glue gluing site. That's what we did. Now we will clean everything and proceed to the manufacture of additional decks. The front part of the deck starts from the beginning of rounding and protrudes by 3 cm. The width of the bow is 9 cm. The width of the part from the rounding is 16.6 cm.
The back also starts from the rounding level 16.6 cm, protrudes 4 cm. The width of the rear part is 9.5 cm. The additional decks are now glued in the current order (you can also glue it with an iron).
Sticking first front part of the deck. Then we fan her. After that we fan the main deck until the beginning of the rounding and installation of the rear part of the additional deck. Next glue back part. It can not be plywood as it is overlapped by deck superstructures. The decks are glued, rounded and proceed to the manufacture of the back side of the model. We cut off two strips 4 cm wide. You will determine the length yourself. Start from the place of rounding. The back of the bead has a deployed
  angle of 105 degrees. After the strips are cut, we make cuts on them in the place where they will be
bend along the contour of the deck and apply glue. Glue dried up begin to plywood. Cut off the two strips of veneer width and glue with iron, while bending them along the contour of the deck. The side boards did, but since they have to be deployed, we gently undercut them at an angle, trying on the deck. Then glue them. Make the back of the board you will not be difficult. Next, go to
  deck superstructure of the back of the model. The photo shows how it looks. The configuration of the deck of the superstructure must be integral. A little explanation to the photo. Lateral
pads should be 1.5 cm longer to the back of the model. After the deck is made, we make an insert with windows and other inserts in the openings for the stairs. When we have all the inserts ready and fitted, we glue them to the deck and then glue the deck itself. The deck stuck and after that we fan it. Next we do the following sides of the deck superstructure and an insert with windows. The back of the sides, we will have no longer deployed, but at a right angle. After the last deck was made, glued and veneered, we do
  the final side. With the rear deck superstructure finished go to the nose of the model. We also make front boards with
  unfolded angle of 115 degrees. They also start from the beginning of the additional deck. Boards made installed and glued. We proceed to the manufacture of inserts with windows and the upper platform. Sizes of the top platform. The length is 15 cm, (excluding the balcony) the width of the front part is 12 cm. It protrudes by 6 cm. The back of the platform is slightly wider than the boards by about 7-8 mm on each side. After you have made a pad and an insert with windows, we glue them. Then we fan the site. Next, we make the side of the center of the model. We cut off 2 lanes, fan them from the inside, mark up
  cannon ports and cut them. The port size is 1.5 cm by 1.5 cm. The gap between the ports is also 1.5 cm. The ports are 5-6 mm above the deck.
With the boards finished, we start veneering the outer part of the ship. After the veneer of the ship we make ladders. With the ladders finished go to the railing. 4 mm wide strip mode. We fan them from three sides, glue backing away from the edge of 1 mm and gash them on the mustache. Next, mark them up and drill holes to install pilasters under the railings themselves. After that we do the railing ourselves. The same strip mode but fan only the edges. A little trick. The photo shows that the corner pilasters are slightly higher than the others. This is so that it would be more convenient to mark.
  Drilled a hole, tried on clothes on the pilaster, noted the other points for pilasters. After all the railings installed. Cut off excess, we clean and
  fanned We do the same in the bow of the ship. Further we fan the edges of the ship’s sides and we clean the whole ship. Go to the markup and installation of masts. The length of the masts is at your discretion. The diameter of the mast at the bottom of 10-12 mm. In the top 4-5 mm. So that you can drill a hole to install a flagpole of toothpicks. The ship is fully prepared and proceed to its staining. Morim those parts that you see fit. With the stain finished. We make 2 additional fastenings for ropes (photo 24) and two blocks for raising the sails (photo 25). It remains to lacquer the model, make the sails, and then install them. For the sails, we will need material, a sheet of drawing paper for the patterns, wooden round skewers and the nearest workshop for sewing and repairing clothes. I hope you cope with the manufacture and installation of the sails.