The making of ship models is the most ancient of the "technical hobbies" of man: for almost six thousand years, people have perpetuated their vessels in miniature. The oldest ritual silver boat found during excavations, with oars from a tomb in Mesopotamia, is referred by archaeologists to the beginning of the fourth millennium BC.
Russian professional ship modeling is much younger, but it has already caught up with three centuries. The manufacture of ship models began with Peter’s “model-chamber” in which the “Admiralty” models of all new ships under construction were stored. These were precise, detailed copies of the hull structure with partly removed skinning, serving as visual aids for ship carpenters who were not well versed in the drawings.
In fact, Peter I himself was the first serious Russian modeller. Back in seventeen years, returning from the "Great Embassy" in Europe, he built such a model of a frigate. By Peter's decree, all models were stored as samples for posterity. With the collection of this very "Kamora", located on the site of the current fountain in front of the Admiralty, at one time began the collection of our Naval Museum.
Probably, many, and even more so living in St. Petersburg, with its history and traditions, at least once, but there was a desire to build a model of a sailing ship with their own hands. However, without the necessary skills and tools, at home it can hardly be done, guided by the special literature and ship modeling sites. The technologies described there are often quite complex, require special equipment, materials, and almost always already imply certain experience, so making a ship is not a simple task. As a result, those whose skills are limited to school lessons of labor and folding paper boats are complex. work, rather discourage desire than form interest. It is difficult to find recommendations that allow you to create something significant, taking up the task almost from scratch. But still, if you wish, it is quite possible to build a fairly decent model, with the simplest tools available in any house where there is a man with hands, and a minimum set of material. You just need to initially set yourself up for the fact that everything will work out, necessarily (!), But almost never - right away. That an operation that failed to get, a detail that was upset (well, if one!) Is the norm, the necessary experience, and not the emergency. 
Serious professional modellers, whose work, at times worth tens of thousands of dollars, occupy the first places at international exhibitions, as a rule, are quite skeptical of models made of papier-mâché. It is understandable - paper, even well glued, will still remain paper. But for the one who first tries his hand at modeling, this technique of work will be most preferable. It does not require any expensive materials or tools, and as a workplace it can be limited to a simple table with a piece of plywood on it and a lattice to the bathroom so as not to dust in the room. It is great if there is a power drill with a tripod that can be installed outdoors. But if not, then the above conditions will allow you to start, and most importantly - to finish your first model. All the models shown in these photos - from the Roman galleys to the armored cruiser - are built using this technology and in such conditions. Fifteen years ago, after an injury, suddenly being isolated from the environment, I had to remember a children's hobby and try to turn it into a profession. After reading a fair amount of literature, I realized that none of the techniques listed there in its pure form does not suit me. As a result of many trials and experiments over the years, a technology has emerged that allows working independently of any external circumstances. However, with all the availability of the method, to get something even before the start of work still does not hurt. The most important thing is, of course, what and what all this will be built from. So, what is needed in order to make a ship of wood with your own hands:1.1
MATERIALS
Array - i.e. ordinary wood, necessary primarily for the manufacture of the mast. For columns of masts, pine slats of the corresponding section are best suited. Birch is worse: it is harder to choose straight sections and even harder to process. The thinner parts of the masts - the flagons and flagpoles, yards, and the rest of the spars are perfectly obtained from birch shashlik masks, which can sometimes be bought in various super-hyper-markets. It is worth paying attention to the fact that they are of different thickness: there were also 3.5 and 3 and 1.8 mm. For the smallest details it is good to use wooden toothpicks. Other wooden parts; in theory, and in theory, made from an array is simpler and better obtained from the glued together “Moment” in 2-3 layers of veneer of the corresponding species.
Glue. Optimally - furniture PVA. Proven - Novgorod PVA-M "Akron". If not, another one will do. The main thing is that in the appointment it was stated "for gluing" wood products, and not "for gluing" - this one holds much worse. When buying, ask to try - glue, with a clothespin, squeeze, two pieces of veneer, wait about 30 minutes until it dries and try to tear. If the glue is good, the veneer will tear, but not glue. In addition, apply a smear on the surface - a matte, but absolutely homogeneous, transparent film without a milky shade should form. Estonian PVA is good, but it sometimes does not stick to our dried out, falls off. Those. having started working with some one, it’s better to continue with it. And, of course, the ordinary Moment is irreplaceable. 
Lucky paint. Varnish is best suited "Aqua" - i.e. water based. Dries quickly, does not give stains on paper and cardboard. And, which is essential when working in an apartment, practically does not smell. It makes sense to buy immediately and colorless, and tinted under dark wood. Paint - having tried several options, I stopped on acrylic. Of these, the most necessary is gold. Proven - Gold Inca. Where possible, it is easier to stick the colored paper mentioned above instead of coloring. In general, in the traditions of the Russian model school was not very common coloring models. Unlike in Europe, where they strived for one hundred percent similarity with the original even in shades, in Russia they tried to select valuable types of wood so that their color was not exactly, approximately, but matched the color of the painted original.
Fabric and thread. Any white cotton fabric is suitable for sails. Naturally, the thinner the thread and the tighter the weave, the better. The main thing is that there is no impurity synthetics, otherwise it will be bad to stick. The same applies to the thread. True cotton is hard to find now, but if the percentage of synthetics is small, you can try them. For standing rigging, black threads are needed, for running - light beige is better. By thickness - all possible numbers will be useful: from the maximum - 10 or even 0, if it can be found, up to 40 - 50. In the literature, it is sometimes recommended to tint the fabric with a weak solution of tea for authenticity. I tried - I did not like it: it may be more reliable, but pure white sails look much prettier. But the thread, if you do not find the desired color, it is better to slightly tint wood stain for the tree.
Wire and foil - preferably copper or brass, but it will go and any, at least from the tubes. Small carnations, plasticine, self-adhesive film, etc. - far from an exhaustive list, new ideas can come to mind at any moment during the whole work.
INSTRUMENTS
In addition to the standard set of tools that do not need to be commented, such as a plane, pliers, nippers, a screwdriver, pair clamps — bigger and smaller, a hammer, a handsaw, chisels, etc., there are several specific things that should be mentioned separately. .Electric drill. If you have an idea to get down to business seriously, without limiting yourself to one trial copy, you should definitely get a drill. It is advisable to choose more powerful - 500 watts, no less. Very good, if with a tripod and with adjustable speed. Extremely useful thing - grinding wheel. Those. not grinding (it also does not hurt), namely grinding - on the plane of which you can fix the skin. Saws. Jigsaw is a useful, though not essential, thing. A hacksaw comes in handy sooner (albeit for working with wood). It is good to have two canvases for it: small and large. Four or five pieces of different shapes and notches should be, but, in my own experience, the main and almost irreplaceable one is flat, small, the largest one you can find. Also nice to have a set of files. Knives. He made his favorite and necessary knife (on the photo) 25 years ago of metal on canvas. In the sale of these does not happen. Without it, there is no work - only them can cut the veneer of high quality into strips. It was five centimeters longer (!) - it was stowed ... So, if you do the same, then with a margin of length. Choosing a blade on the blade, try to bend it: if it remains bent, it is too soft. If it breaks, it will do. From the wreck and make. Take the blade longer: to go through almost the whole grip. The rounding at the end of the handle is also not accidental: it is convenient for them to grind the parts to be pasted (especially on the “Moment”), and just to smooth out the bumps. 
Pay attention to the sharpening - it is one-sided, while the right side of the blade is stitched - that is, if you cut them along a ruler, leading like a pencil, then the flat side is pressed against the ruler, and the ground chamfer faces away from the ruler. The angle of the blade - about 30, sharpening - 15-20. From the same canvas it is worth making small thin incisors, such as chisels, of different widths: 4, 6, 8, 12mm - though not immediately, but gradually everything will be useful somewhere. You can find on sale kits for woodcarving with semicircular incisors. They, too, sooner or later, but they will definitely be needed. Normal shoemaker. But one more thing you have to do yourself - from a long thin nail or from a thick sewing needle (conveniently from a machine) on a long (15-20cm) handle. Well, since we are already talking, a set of sewing needles of different sizes will also be needed. Tassels. It is worth getting a dozen and a half at once - all sizes: from 2 to 20mm, of different rigidity for different needs. Sometimes, instead of a glue brush, it is convenient to use thin wire attached to a stick during minor jobs. 
Scissors. It is necessary to have at least two, and preferably three pairs: separately for cloth, for foil, and for paper, veneer and cardboard. Sanding paper. A minimum of three numbers is required: from the largest for leveling the body blank for facing to the smallest for grinding to finish. Well, the average - for intermediate work. Grinding bars for incisors - it is worth starting three pieces, including the smallest stock for final finishing. 
The little things are necessary and easy to use: drawing accessories, big tweezers, small flat-nose pliers with long thin sponges, clothespins, rubber bands for money, crochet hook, table vices, 50 cm long transparent Plexiglas ruler, black and brown indelible markers, wood stain. Yes, you never know what else can come up with a creative approach to business! 
And forward.So, getting all of the above, or being confident that you will get the necessary at the right time, you can, inspired, start! Where to get the drawings, I will not advise - there is a lot of literature, the Internet is huge and dynamic - sites are born and die. And I myself have not been interested in this direction lately ... In any case, once you get here, you can get to the drawings. Study several projects of different ships, comparing their designs, details. Often, the details omitted in one set are beautifully represented in the other - for a similar ship of the same class, and vice versa. It is worth reading their stories. It’s good that when the debut becomes not the first thing that catches the eye, but the fact that as a result of the selection made will be liked more than anyone else, it will be much more interesting to work. Such a model is much more likely to be completed - it is a pity to quit unfinished ... Well, let's begin, of course, with the case. 
The author - Dmitry Kopilov
Exclusively for the site
Try to cut out such a ship. Such an article will surely attract your loved ones by placing it in a prominent place, for example, on a shelf. For the manufacture of such crafts you will need the following:
Cutting tools.
The first thing you need to prepare your desk at which you will work. It should not be unnecessary things and every tool should be at hand. Not everyone has their own desktop and probably already thought about its creation. Making a table is not difficult - it is difficult to choose a place for it in the house. The ideal option is a warmed balcony on which you can do crafts at any time. I already wrote about the preparation of the table in a separate article and tried to describe the whole process of its creation in as much detail as possible. If you do not know how to prepare your workplace, then read the following article. After you have completed the process of creating the table, try to start choosing your future crafts.
Choosing quality material
The main material is plywood. Choosing her is always difficult. Each of us probably faced with such a problem as the delamination of plywood from the end and asked such a question, what is the delamination from? Well, of course, mainly because of poor-quality plywood. If you took the jigsaw in your hands not for the first time, then you can pick up plywood from the remnants of the previous crafts. If you are new to sawing and you do not have plywood, then buy it at the hardware store. It is always difficult to choose material for cutting. You should always choose plywood carefully, look more often at wood flaws (knots, cracks) and draw conclusions. The complexity of the choice of plywood is that no matter how misguided its defects and shelf life. For example, you bought plywood, trimmed it, translated the drawing and suddenly it began to stratify. Of course, this happened to almost everyone, and oh so unpleasant. So it is better to pay attention when choosing and choose a good plywood. I wrote a special article in which all the principles for choosing plywood are described in stages.
Stripping plywood
We clean our plywood with sandpaper. As you already know, “Medium-grained” and “Fine-grained” pelts are used for stripping plywood in cutting. In the building stores you probably saw the skins (in a different way sandpaper), and we will need them. In the work you will need "Coarse-grained", "Medium-grained" and "Fine-grained" skin. Each of them has its own property, but a completely different coating, in which it is classified. "Coarse-grained" skin serves to process coarse plywood, i.e. which has many defects, chips, as well as cracks.
“Medium-grained” skin serves for processing plywood after “Large” skin and has a slight spraying. "Fine-grained" or otherwise "Zero". Such emery paper serves as the final process of stripping plywood. It gives plywood smoothness, and therefore plywood will be pleasant to the touch. Grind harvested plywood in stages, starting with medium-grained and ending with fine emery. Grind along layers, not across. A well-sanded surface should be smooth, perfectly smooth, glossy in light and silky to the touch. How best to prepare plywood for cutting and what sandpaper is best to choose Read here. After stripping, check the plywood for burrs and minor irregularities. If there are no visible defects, then you can break into the process of translating the drawing.
Drawing translation
For me, the translation of the drawing was always the main process in the work. I will tell you a couple of rules, as well as tips for high-quality translation of the drawing. Many people transfer the drawing to plywood not only with a pencil and a copy, but also with the help of the “Black Ribbon”, glue the drawing with plywood, then wash the drawing with water and the drawing marking remains on the plywood. In general, there are many ways, but I will tell you about the most common method. To translate the drawing to the harvested plywood, you must use a copy, a ruler, a sharp pencil and not a writing pen. Secure the drawing, in plywood using buttons or simply hold it with your left hand. Check if the drawing is suitable for the dimensions. Arrange the clock so that you can use a sheet of plywood as economically as possible. Translate the drawing with a non-writing pen and a ruler. There is no need to hurry, because your future craft depends on the drawing.
We drill holes in the details
As you have already noticed that in the details there are parts of the grooves that need to be cut from the inside. In order to cut such parts, it is necessary to drill holes in them using a hand drill or, as in the old manner, to make holes with an awl. By the way, the hole diameter must be at least 1 mm, otherwise it is possible to damage the elements of the drawing, which, alas, are sometimes difficult to repair. In order not to damage your work table when drilling holes, you need to place a plate under the workpiece in order not to damage the work table. It is always difficult to drill holes alone and therefore ask a friend to help you in your business.
Cutting out parts
There are many rules for cutting out, but you need to base it on the most common one. The first thing you need to cut out the internal parts, only then on the outer pattern. When cutting out, no need to hurry. The main thing is to keep a jigsaw when sawing, always right at an angle of 90 degrees. Cut out the details on the lines you have precisely marked. Jigsaw movements should always be smooth up and down. Just do not forget to monitor your posture. Try to avoid bevels and irregularities. If when you saw out of the line, you should not worry. Such bevels, irregularities can be removed with the help of flat files or "Coarse-grained" sandpaper.
Relaxation
When we saw, we often get tired. Often tired fingers and eyes, which are always in suspense. When working, of course, everyone gets tired. In order to reduce the load, you need to do a couple of exercises. Exercises can be viewed here. Perform exercises in the process several times.
Stripping Parts
Cleaning out the details of future crafts should always be carefully. At the very beginning of work you have already cleaned the plywood with sandpaper. Now you have a small part of the stripping of plywood. “Medium-grained” sandpaper polish the edges of the parts and the back of the plywood. "Fine-grained" skin is considered the final stage of stripping parts. Fine sandpaper is better to clean the front of the parts. When processing plywood do not rush. You can also use a rounded file, with which it is convenient to clean the inside of the holes. Try to get the parts without burrs and irregularities.
Assembly of parts
Assembling parts of our ship here is not so difficult. In order to carry out the correct assembly of parts you need to read the following article, which details about all the details of the assembly. After the parts are assembled into one common crafts without any problems, then proceed to their gluing.
Glue the parts
It is necessary to glue the details of the shelf with PVA or titan glue. It is not necessary to pour a lot of glue. It is better to tie the assembled work of art with glue with a strong thread, tighten and put to dry. The craft is glued together for about 10-15 minutes.
Burning out crafts
To decorate our ship with a pattern (for example, on the edges of the ship) you will need an electric burner. Beautifully burn a pattern can be very difficult. Burn patterns, you must first draw a pattern with a pencil. How to work with an electric burner and add patterns to the shelf you can read here.
Varnishing crafts
If you wish, you can have transformed our ship, coating it with varnish "On a Tree" rather colorless. Read how best to lacquer crafts. Try to choose a quality varnish. Varnishing produce using a special brush "For glue." Do not hurry. Try not to leave visible divorces and scratches on the craft.
The element of water at all times has attracted desperate travelers, brave sailors and fearless pirates. To sail through the waves and watch how new horizons open up before you, this is the most amazing thing that can be in life. In order to go sailing you need to build a ship with your own hands. Let it be not as huge as “Titanic”, the main thing is that you created it yourself.
Sets for building models of wooden ships (Wooden Kit) is not new for the Russian market. The question is not "where to get it", but how to choose from the whole variety of sets such that it is not a pity for the money spent on it and the time spent on building a model.
The wooden kit kit for building a ship model from wood is documentation and a set of materials. It is assumed that this is enough for self-built of just such a model, which is shown on the box.
The documentation describes in detail the appearance and the process of building a model and includes general drawings, a scheme for manufacturing parts and components.
Materials are practically finished parts of the frame, rail and veneer for plating, blanks for all parts and parts, ready-made decorations. Threads for rigging, flags, if the model with sails is sail fabric or ready-made sails, of low quality. The required number of small parts of the same type (fittings) - blocks, jubersov, etc. and even nails, sometimes of several kinds. Only glue and paints are not attached.
A formed circle of importers of the Wooden Kit sets is currently not in Russia. There are many one-day firms that "intercepted" a batch or two of kits at overseas sales. These firms also do not stop smuggling, bringing sets through "friends and acquaintances" who are abroad. Such "dealers" work "in the black way", not spending money on taxes and duties, so the prices are lower ... But such "one-day projects" can be thrown!
In the world there are very few companies producing sets of wood. Traditionally, trade in valuable breeds was concentrated in the hands of Spanish and French firms. These countries had overseas colonies, from where this wood was imported in large quantities. Therefore, the "founding father" of the most famous manufacturer of the Wooden Kit, the Spanish Artesania Latina is French.
Spanish firms
For the aforementioned reason, the production sets of Spanish companies are richest in specially prepared wood of valuable species - the main material for building a model.
Traditionally, the best in Spanish sets and "yellow metal" - as turned brass parts, so even brass wire!
However, the white metal moldings are poorly designed, there are few of them. In many places, cast ornaments are replaced with photo-etched.
Artesania latina
In my opinion, the firm number 1 in the world for the production of sets of Wooden Kit. The main advantages: manufacturability of building models and good appearance. Now Artesania has changed its management, young "yuppie" managers have arrived. And therefore, recently Artesania "recycles" old sets: the same parts and blanks are packed in an enlarged and more beautiful box, the set index changes and the price increases.
For example, Artesania Latina has released a "new edition" of its old set of 22720 battleship "San Juan Nepomuseno" under the new index 22860. The first impression is "the product sells the package", the box has almost doubled. The second impression, after careful consideration of the content - nothing has changed. The same parts and materials, just located in a large box more freely. No changes, except for a new box and a new (grown) price.
At the same time, the company has something to really process. This is a fantastically incorrect set of 22850 Constellation. Made on the basis of an entirely erroneous design, a mixture of a frigate built in 1798 with a sloop of 1853, supposedly rebuilt from this frigate, and in fact simply received the same name! And from the frigate taken weapons and "history", from the sloop - the case. And this is despite the fact that the archives preserved the original construction drawings of that frigate Constellation.
In addition to high technology, it should be noted the high quality of materials in all sets of Artesania Latina. Unfortunately, now compared to the 2002 sample sets, the quality of wood has deteriorated, but still, according to this criterion, Artesania is above all others.
If ready-made sails are put into the set, their quality is satisfactory (on a "C grade"), you can put on a model in the absence of the best. At the same time, it is advisable to perform reef seasons on the sails.
Artesania Latina sets are suitable even for inexperienced modellers. The appearance of the model with a qualification can be significantly improved. Assessment of sets in general 4 (good).
An old Spanish company also produces the Wooden Kit.
Compared to Artesania, the Constructo sets are poorer than the assortment of fine wood, although the quantity and quality are more than sufficient. Much less decorative items. There are practically no white metal casts; on the new sets, the decor is mostly photo-etched. In general, Constructo models look "rustic". Sometimes one or two blocks or lackers are missing, or rather there is no reserve for "losses."
At one time there were practically no large ships in the Constructo catalog, but in 2003-04. the company has released two "large-caliber" sets - the English battleship "Victory" (code 80833) and the American frigate "Constitution" (code 80836). Both prototypes are very popular among the manufacturers of the Wooden Kit, primarily due to the presence of good drawings of both ships (not surprising, both are still alive - ed.).
The Constructo Victory set is the cheapest of its kind and is not too complicated to build, repeats the design of the San Juan by Artesania.
All Constructo kits are distinguished by high manufacturability of construction and a reserve of wood for "marriage coverage". There are large reserves of wood to improve the appearance of models.
Also in the catalog there are a lot of relatively small models that are well suited both for construction and for exhibiting in our small apartments.
Assessment of sets in general 4 (good).
More recently, a new Spanish kit manufacturer - Ocio Creativo (Ocсre).
The catalog of the company is small, which is understandable - the development of the Wooden kit is not a quick process. The new company decided to “beat with no number” and presented a lot of large models for sale, including the largest military sailing ship in history - the 144-gun battleship “Santisima Trinidad”, the flagship of the Spanish squadron at Trafalgar. It is not surprising that the newly established Spanish company decided to create a model of this particular ship for the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805.
The developers of the Santisim Trinidad set were clearly in a hurry, leaving both constructive flaws and documentation errors. It seems that when moving the office and the main production of the Artesania Latina from Barcelona to Bilbao, some specialists from the design department were "thrown overboard", and they started to reject in Artesania with "grief".
The construction of the model "Santisima Trinidad" from Occre constantly presents surprises. Confusion and documentation errors, inconsistencies in metal parts of the stern, sometimes the wrong selection of wood for parts. Finished sails in the set are no good, have to either spit on the sail at all, or do the cut yourself.
The Occre "Santisima Trinidad" kit is only available to a skilled modeler. When building has to deviate from the proposed technology and drawings for an acceptable appearance of the model. The rest of the occre sets are no better.
For example, another set from Occre is the La Candelaria bombing ship. The problems are almost the same, plus the veneer is enclosed in only one color - it is unclear how to carry out the finishing plating of the underwater part. Extremely unsuccessful design of the stern - the frame of the vodka is made integral with the decks, therefore, the protrusions of the vodka have to be cut off, and then re-made using Constructo technology and the SMC method. The boat is cast, replaced by a wooden house of its own construction. And so in all - replacements and replacements. Junk these sets!
Evaluation of sets 2 (unsatisfactory).
Italian firms
All Italian Wooden Kit manufacturers have common features. The quantity and quality of wooden blanks in the sets is good, but the walling rail and the veneer are given "to the edge", the minimum thickness. Sometimes, especially in small sets, thin slats and veneers fall apart in the hands, just “trash”!
The Italians lay the pads, which in the Spanish sets "lie" in the plywood sheets, separately. But the "waste" of plywood is an excellent material for bow and stern lugs, kerchiefs, masts reinforcements, etc. It seems that this is just a petty tree saving.
Also, most Italian sets involves making a model of a sailboat without sails. And if you want with sails - purchase separately (20-50 euros, depending on the model). Threads for rigging - just enough, with errors or the desire to supplement the rigging is not enough. Fitting account, without stock. Not all sets are completed with flags.
Many sets as a "positive feature" mention that all parts are made by laser cutting for the greatest accuracy. However, if the original drawing and / or machine program has errors, laser cutting will not fix them.
A common positive feature of Italian kits is well-made drawings in the documentation. However, there is no “step-by-step photo instruction” describing the construction of the model. Therefore, the Wooden Kit sets of Italian firms will not suit beginner modellers. The probability is too high, entangled in the documentation and "constipation" of a small amount of material, to be "at the broken trough" with an unfinished model, and buy another set for the sake of material or look for an opportunity to purchase fittings from the manufacturer at an inflated price. Copper plating, if it is on the prototype and model, is proposed to be made from green-colored finely chopped veneer - or to buy brass leaves or strip for some money.
All this gives a Gypsy - to what descendants of the proud Romans have come!
An old and highly respected company. Some consider her sets to be the best in price-performance ratio. In my opinion, from the Italian manufacturers is the number 1 company.
There are many large interesting ships in the Mamoli catalog, some are simply unique. For example, the model of the French 120-gun battleship Royal Louis 1798 (MV20). The gorgeous bow decoration and stern decoration are reproduced on models from cast parts and look great, although you have to tinker with the assembly of the stern balconies and galleries. The MV24 Friesland, a Dutch battleship of 1663, is very good.
All Mamoli sets are distinguished by very high-quality cast decorations from "white metal" and spectacular cast metal bronzed guns.
But, for example, the ports of the lower decks (deaf) are proposed to be made from the enclosed casting frames. But the one who was able to perform this part of the work according to the instructions, deserves an order for perseverance! After all, in this case it is necessary to customize each frame of the port. Redesigned double-skinned, and the finished sheathed body is proposed to paint, hiding the beauty of the tree.
In the SMC studio, when building the Mamoli models, they had to replace the materials used (wood), simplify the hull plating technology, develop the sail patterns and change the rigging accordingly, from which the models greatly benefited.
If you work strictly according to the instructions, the model will have to be built for years. The lack of materials (wood) and the over complicated technology can turn the construction of a model into a nightmare.
Overall rating of 3+ (very satisfactory).
The full impression that the development was carried out in due time by a part of specialists who had broken away from Mamoli. Therefore, everything that is said about Mamoli can be repeated here without change. The quality of documentation is very high, the technology of construction is almost the same, that is, there is a lot of over-complication without need.
Minus - decorative elements mostly cast of metallized plastic. All this decor too shines, it is necessary to modify and repaint it.
In the catalog there are relatively many models of large ships - battleships, frigates. All models have a relatively small size due to the selected (non-standard) scale. There are also unusual models, no one does such a thing - for example, the model of the French gallery "Real de France" or the French Polacre-shebec "Mystic".
Mantua Model (Panart / Sergal)
The company has incorporated two fairly well-known manufacturers, so it has a very extensive catalog of various sets. The quality of metal jewelry is very high. However, photo-etched are often used instead of cast jewelry.
There are many models of large ships, including the magnificent battleships: the French "La Crown" in 1636 (Mantua) and "Soleil Royal" in 1690, the English "Sovereign of the Siz" in 1637 (Sergal), the Spanish "San Felipe "1690 (Panart). There are four models of the battleship "Victory" in the catalog of this company (firms?), And one of the models in 1:78 scale is 1300 mm long! And this is not counting the separate "section" (nose) and lifeboats with the "Victory".
Everything is done on an average Italian level. There is a "gag" - a great model "Titanic". This is not just a set, but a series of 4 sets! One set on the case, one on the add-ons, a separate set of detailing and another "motorisation kit" - a set to turn the Titanic model into a chassis. Radio control, of course, is proposed to purchase separately.
Overall rating 3 (satisfactory).
This company does not make sets of large ships. There are many sets of yachts - participants or prize-winners of the America's Cup in the catalog. There are unique (no other company anymore does) making kits for building models in bottles. Bottles included. Many kits are additionally completed with some tools. In general, in the catalog of the company Amati, more space is given to tools and accessories than to sets for building models.
The quality of the material (wood) is lower than that of other Italian companies, fittings are extremely small. Some kits for building models of sailboats have a finished plastic case.
The only advantage - the cast is made "with fiction", decent quality. There is a separate catalog of cast figures for collectors. Casting from this company is much better than kits for building models.
Overall score is 3- (barely satisfactory).
Other manufacturers:
To list absolutely all manufacturers of sets for building models of ships is simply impossible. Many of them are not represented on the Russian market, not all due to the high price. For example, in the USA there are a large number of small (cottage) firms, in their basements producing a small number of sets for the domestic American market. Their products are not only in Russia, but also in Europe! Of the American firms, we know, for example, the American Model Shipways - above all, by the “ceiling” prices and the re-sophisticated technology of building a model “as close as possible to building a real ship”. But in my opinion, as a “traditional modeller”, this is no longer shipbuilding, but a perversion ...
It should also be noted that cheap sets priced at up to 75 euros do not provide anything for the modeller! This is at best an almost empty box, in which lies a wooden "blank" -casing and a bit of rails. Packaging seems to be more expensive than the contents. The Panart set No. 720, which proposes to build a small-scale (1: 200) model of the Victory battleship, costs 70 euros, is particularly “highlighted” against this background. Indeed, cheap in all respects. For the money it is better to buy "plastic" ...
Everyone probably has (or had) a favorite business, which is not a pity to devote free time. Someone has a collection of stamps, someone is involved in photography, someone likes to cook, knit, draw, ... and so on, you can’t name it all.
One of my favorite things, and more simply a hobby, is. This news is dedicated to them.
After that, you can leave the "skeleton" to dry and cover the deck.
Everything is not as simple as it seems from the side - the covering boards should be laid in a certain pattern. You can of course and just lay the long strips, but it will look quite rude ...
After that, the decks (or deck, if it is alone) are put in the proper place and the first hull begins. Usually the ship model is covered twice - the first trim is rough, it is made of very soft wood. 
One after another, the strips are attached to the “skeleton” with the help of glue and small studs, which will be removed when the glue dries.
The work is thin, the strips are not always easy to bend and can break.
After painstaking work, the whole body is covered with the first layer!
Now you need to close the gap between the slats and how to shake.
Then you can proceed to the front trim. You need to be extremely careful with it - the slats are much thinner than rough ones and break easily.
The technology is the same - glue and cloves.
Can you imagine the amount of work (ship in the photo, Victory, length 1300 mm.) ...
I described the assembly of the HMS Victory model in 17 reviews, everyone who wants to read is welcome!
And this model is probably the most famous ship in the world - the “Santa Maria” (in the process of assembly, of course).
After the second plating is finished and finished, you can varnish everything. And then we will deal with the deck - ladders, boats, hatches, ...
Almost all parts are made of wood and brass. Plastic is not in principle.
Detailing the exterior is no less important. 
Well, after the case is finished, we proceed to the rigging.
But before that you need to install masts and yards.
Each small knot is tied by hands (those sea knots :-).
And these nodules are just countless!
Sails must first flash. Santa Maria still needed to paint them.
If the stand is not included in the set, then you can give free rein to your imagination. 
For example, I made a stand for Santa Maria from a piece of oak parquet.
And only when the last knot is tied, the ship can be considered ready!
You can proudly put it on the most prominent and enthusiastic "Wow!" Guests, looking down, say "Yes, I did it myself ...".
Wooden ship models for beginners
CONSTRUCTO
Universal ships series: 80620 1/85 St. Helena
Article: CNSB0620 80620 1/85 St. Helena
Two-masted schooner Helena was launched in 1814 and served to link England with its eastern colonies. The kit is a 1/85 scale replica of a schooner and is recommended to modellers with little experience.
Universal ships series: 80618 1/135 Bluenose II
Article: CNSB6118 80618 1/135 Bluenose II
The wooden model of the ship, the Bluenose II fishing schooner. Launched in 1921 in Nova Scotia. This fishing schooner gained fame after numerous victories won in classic races. Recommended for beginner modelers.
Universal ships series: 80615 1/100 Flyer
Article: CNSB6115 80615 1/100 Flyer
Wooden model of a pilot ship in 1/100 scale, Flyer. This American merchant ship, which was known for its speed characteristics, was therefore converted into a warship, after which it was used as a coast guard ship during the American Revolution and the 1812 War. This is the whale of the universal series from Constructo, which is fairly simple to assemble and recommended by beginner modellers.
Universal ships series: 80616 1/100 Union
Article: CNSB6116 80616 1/100 Union
Model of the brigantine Union, a sailing two-masted ship with square sails. Such ships were very common during the 18-19 centuries, were used as merchant or light military ships, and also served as coast guard ships at a short distance from the coast. The model is recommended for beginner modellers.
Universal ships series: 80702 1/55 Albatros Sailing Ship
Article: CNSB0702 80702 1/55 Albatros Sailing Ship
Albatros is a model of a sailing ship built in 1899 on the stocks of Holland, also known as the Clipper of the North Sea, one of the oldest sailing ships still sailing, one of the main advantages of which is the ability to be at sea under extremely adverse weather conditions.
Universal ships series: 80703 1/80 Carmen Spanish Sailing Ship
Article: CNSB0703 80703 1/80 Carmen Spanish Sailing Ship
Model sailing ship, a reproduction of the Spanish frigate The Carmen, built in 1861. Recommended to modellers with little experience.
ARTESANIA LATINA
Universal ships series: 20145 1/35 Bremen Krabben Kutter
Article: LATB2145 20145 1/35 Bremen Krabben Kutter
The first vessel for catching shrimp appeared in 1898 and was virtually designed to operate in the North Sea, these vessels eventually began to be equipped with 8-10 powerful engines and were about 10 meters in length. Bremen Krabben Kutter, a small vessel for shrimp fishing, built in 1953 in a small shipyard in Germany.
Universal ships series: 22299 1/80 J.S. Elcano w / ABS Hull & Tools
Article: LATB2299 22299 1/80 J.S. Elcano w / ABS Hull & Tools
Model ship J.S. Elcano, a copy of the Spanish training four-masted ship of the Naval Academy, launched in Cadiz on March 5, 1927.
Universal ships series: 19004 1/25 Bounty Jolly
Product number: LATB1904 19004 1/25 Bounty Jolly
A wooden replica of the 1/25 scale model of the boat, the Bounty Jolly, from the notorious historic ship HMS Bounty, made famous by the feat of the people who traveled 3,600 miles on three small ships in the ocean.
Universal ships series: 22400 1/35 Mare Nostrum Fishing Trawler w / Tools
Article: LATB2400 22400 1/35 Mare Nostrum Fishing Trawler w / Tools 
Latina Mare Nostrum is a fully wooden replica, on a scale of 1:35, a typical Mediterranean fishing trawler, built in the harbor of the Spanish city of Arenys de Mar. A kit for assembling a trawler complete with tools.
Universal ships series: 22170 1/50 Marie Jeanne
Article: LATB2034 22170 1/50 Marie Jeanne
Universal series of ships: 22445 1/35 Bremen Fishing Cutter w / Tools
Article: LATB2445 22445 1/35 Bremen Fishing Cutter w / Tools
Large-scale replica of the vessel for catching shrimp Bremen Krabben Kutter, a small vessel built in 1953 in a small shipyard in Germany. Kit to build a ship with tools.
for experienced modellers
Ship models for experienced: 80621 1/110 H.M.S. Bounty
Article: CNSB6114 80621 1/110 H.M.S. Bounty
Ship model H.M.S. Bounty, in the past of a merchant ship and subsequently transformed into a frigate, known for the rebellion raised on board by the assistant captain Christian Fletcher (Fletcher Christian) on April 28, 1789, while sailing to the shores of Tahiti. 
Ship models for experienced: 80817 1/50 H.M.S. Bounty
Article: CNSB8179 80817 1/50 H.M.S. Bounty
Ship model H.M.S. Bounty, on a scale of 1/50, the wooden model of a ship is the same as H.M.S. Bounty 1/110, but on a larger scale and in better detail.
12800.00 rub.
Ship models for experienced: 80819 1/65 Mayflower
Article: CNSB8193 80819 1/65 Mayflower
Bench model ship Constructo Mayflower Sailing Ship. Recommended for assembly by experienced modellers. This ship is famous for being on it in 1620, from England to America, made a 67 day voyage 102 pilgrim, where he founded a colony.
12480.00 rub.
Ship models for experienced: 80837 1/51 Enterprise
Article: CNSB8220 80837 1/51 Enterprise
The bench model of the Enterprise ship, which was built in Maryland, USA in 1799 and took part in the siege of Tripoli in 1801.
12480.00 rub.
Ship models for experienced: 80827 1/56 America
Article: CNSB8228 80827 1/56 America
The bench model of the yacht is a completely wooden copy of the first American ship built in 1851 and ahead of the fifteen best British yachts in the race called the America's Cup.
Ship models for experienced: 80832 1/60 H.M.S. Endeavor
Article: CNSB0832 80832 1/60 H.M.S. Endeavor
Bench model bark Constructo Endeavor. Recommended for experienced modellers. In June 1769, this English ship with a group of scientists on board began a voyage to the shores of the island of Tahiti, where researchers set out to observe the passage of the planet Venus on the solar disk.
13040.00 rub.
Ship models for experienced: 80823 1/90 San Mateo
Article: CNSB8230 80823 1/90 San Mateo
Bench model of the galleon San Mateo. Recommended by experienced modelers. San Mateo, 800 ton Spanish ship of the 16th century, under the rule of Phillip II of the Indian companies.
13440.00 rub.
Ship models for experienced: 80834 1/26 Louise Steam Launch
Article: CNSB8100 80834 1/26 Louise Steam Launch
Ship models for experienced: 80838 1/115 Cutty Sark Kit
Article: CNSB8838 80838 1/115 Cutty Sark Kit
A wooden model of the Cutty Sark clipper, a copy of the most famous clipper Cutty Sark, launched on November 23, 1869, on the Clyde River in the Scottish city of Dumbarton. Model ship for modellers who built two or three models before.
12560.00 rub.
ARTESANIA LATINA
Ship models for experienced: 20415 1/50 Sanson
Article: LATB1021 20415 1/50 Sanson
Model tug Latina Sanson. Wooden scale copy of the tug of the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th.
Ship models for experienced: 22251 1/250 Gorch Fock w / ABS Hull & Tools
Article: LATB2251 22251 1/250 Gorch Fock w / ABS Hull & Tools
Model barge Latina Gorch Fock, a copy of the German three-masted ship, built as a school ship in 1933 for Reichsmarine, a German school of navigation.
Ship models for experienced: 22254 1/250 Sagres w / ABS Hull & Tools
Article: LATB2254 22254 1/250 Sagres w / ABS Hull & Tools
Model sailboat Latina Sagres, a copy of the three-masted sailing ship, the Portuguese school of navigation, launched on October 30, 1937 in Hamburg, Germany and serving as a cadet trainer.
Ship models for experienced: 22411 1/65 Carabela Santa Maria
Article: LATB2022 22411 1/65 Carabela Santa Maria
The wooden model of the ship, a large-scale copy of the three-mast single-deck flagship Santa Maria (Spanish: Santa María, Saint Mary) on which Christopher Columbus discovered America in 1492.
Ship models for experienced: 1/65 Santa Maria w / Tools
Article: LATB2611 1/65 Santa Maria w / Tools
The wooden model of the ship, a large-scale copy of the three-mast single-deck flagship Santa Maria (Spanish: Santa María, Saint Mary) on which Christopher Columbus discovered America in 1492. The kit is completely similar to the whale 22411 1/65 Carabela Santa Maria, only complete with tools.
Ship models for experienced: 22516 1/60 H.M.S Endeavor
Article: LATB2026 22516 1/60 H.M.S Endeavor
Ship models for experienced: 22417 1/56 HMS Supply
Article: LATB2241 22417 1/56 HMS Supply
Model of a sailing ship, a copy of the 168 ton ship launched on May 13, 1787, which was part of two fleets sent from Plymouth, England and participating in the colonization of Australia.
Ship models for experienced: 22451 1/64 Mayflower
Article: LATB2020 22451 1/64 Mayflower
Bench model of the ship Latina Mayflower Sailing Ship. Recommended for assembly by experienced modellers. The famous ship, on which in 1620, from Plymouth (England) to Massachusetts (America), completed a 67-day voyage of 102 pilgrims, where they founded a colony. Celebrating America's Thanksgiving Day is associated with this event.
Ship models for experienced: 22452 1/90 San Francisco II
Article: LATB2452 22452 1/90 San Francisco II
A model of a ship made of wood, a copy of the galleon San Francisco II, one of the most powerful ships of the Spanish fleet of the 16th century, and for 150 years there were few ships that could oppose San Francisco with their power.
Ship models for experienced: 22852 1/90 San Francisco II w / Tool Set
Article: LATB2852 22852 1/90 San Francisco II w / Tool Set
A model of a ship made of wood, a copy of the galleon San Francisco II, one of the most powerful ships of the Spanish fleet of the 16th century, and for 150 years there were few ships that could oppose San Francisco with their power. The whale is completely similar to the set 22452 1/90 San Francisco II, only complete with a set of tools.
10160.00 rub.
Wooden ships and sailboats
For many, prefab ship models are something more than a common hobby and an interesting occupation. First of all, this is an opportunity for self-expression, a way to realize your talents and, at the same time, to get distracted and dream. Regardless of whether this is a combat ship, a modern yacht, or a military galleon - each ship personifies all the power and splendor of the sea. 
Desktop wooden ships have excellent decorative qualities, it is impossible not to admire them. Therefore, wooden models of ships always become a worthy decoration of any room, be it a study, or a home living room.
To work on each model of the ship you will need an enviable patience and accuracy. But, the result of hard work is the assembled model, which will become a deserved subject of your pride.
Materials
Everything you need to go sailing:
Bar (if necessary saw)
Wood knife
Knife 
Chisel (I had a screwdriver instead)
Hammer
Super glue / hot glue / other glue
Thin cloth
Rope
Wooden spire
For lovers of modeling, sheets of compressed and glued wooden veneer have always been one of the most sought-after materials. They are easy to cut, they are beautifully processed, the drawings of ships made of plywood are easy to find on the net, and therefore many craftsmen begin their acquaintance with the design of various vessels with plywood patterns.
Making your own models is a very difficult task, requiring considerable baggage of knowledge and a certain skill. In the article we will tell only about the most basic techniques, and further skill you will hone yourself. 
Materials for work
If you want to make a small ship model, then you will need the following materials:
- Wood - cedar, linden, walnut or other wood, preferably soft and non-fibrous. Wood blanks should be smooth, without knots and damage. Wood can be used both as a material for the main elements of the model (hull, deck), and for fine detailing.
- Plywood - perhaps the most requested material. For shipmodelling, either balsa or birch is used, since it is these kinds of wood that provide the minimum amount of chipping during sawing. Model ship plywood, as a rule, has a thickness of from 0.8 to 2 mm.
Note! Sheets of beech veneer of small thickness are sometimes used as an alternative to birch: although they are inferior in strength, they will bend much more easily.
- Veneer - thin plates of natural wood expensive species. As a rule, it is used for veneering, i.e. Pasting of a surface from inexpensive material.
- Fasteners - thin chains, laces, threads, brass and copper studs.
In addition, we will definitely need glue for wood, cardboard and tracing paper to transfer templates, etc. Fine detail made of metal casting. As an alternative to metal, colored polymer clay can be used.
Making a souvenir boat
Preparation for work
Any work begins with preparation, and modeling is by no means an exception.
- First you need to decide what we will build. If you have not previously dealt with shipbuilding art, then we recommend downloading the ship's drawings from plywood on the net: as a rule, they contain all the necessary information and are understandable even to a beginner.
Note! Available kits that allow you to assemble a vessel of finished parts. Such kits will be interesting to beginners (although the price of most of them is quite substantial), but it is better to master the technology from the beginning.
- After analyzing the drawing, we check whether everything necessary is available. In principle, if something is missing, then it will be possible to purchase a bit later, because building a ship (albeit a miniature one) is not a quick job!
- Having printed out the drawing, we make templates of the main details.
- We transfer templates to.
Cut and collect parts
Cutting blanks can be either using a manual or using an electric model jigsaw.
The latter is more expensive, but with it you will spend less time on cutting out small parts:
- In a plywood sheet, we make a starting hole into which we insert a file or jigsaw blade.
- We cut out the part, trying to move exactly along the marked contour.
- Cut the workpiece file is processed, removing small chamfers at the edges and removing the inevitable chips and burrs.
Tip! Working on one element (deck, sides, keel, etc.), we immediately cut out all the parts necessary for assembly. So we will spend significantly less time, and work will move faster.
When everything is ready, we begin to build our ship.
- First, we put on the transverse frames on the longitudinal beam - keel. At the bottom of each frame is usually provided a groove for fastening to the plywood keel.
- Standard glue can be used for joining, and special adhesive mixtures designed for ship modeling can be used.
- The tops of the frames fastened to the deck. For simple models, the deck is a single sheet of plywood, and for complex ones it can be multi-layered.
- After the glue on the frames has dried, we begin to sheathe the beads with thin strips of plywood. The thickness of the material should be no more than 1.5 mm, since only in this case can we bend the casing without the risk of damaging it.
- For bending, it can be heated and moistened. After that, the material will bend without difficulty, and over time - will acquire a stable form.
Note! The body for painting can be pasted over with a solid sheet. But to simulate the boarding is better to use strips up to 10 mm wide (depending on the scale).
- Fix glued plywood with clamps and clamps and leave to dry.
Final finish
By and large, on this carpentry skill is completed, and art begins.
When the body is assembled and dried, we need:
- Make of thin plywood and fix deck superstructures.
- Build up the sides so that they protrude above the deck.
- The surface of the deck to glue the wood veneer or draw out with the help of awls, simulating the plank paneling.
- Make and install all the small parts like the steering wheel and the steering blade.
- Fasten the masts with all additional devices (the so-called mast), set the sails and stretch the whole structure with the help of rigging threads.
In conclusion, all the plywood parts need to be processed with a stain and repainted. This will provide our souvenir at least a couple of decades of preservation.
Conclusion
Practically everyone can do a simple ship made of plywood with their own hands - enough patience and minimal skills to work with a jigsaw (also read the article). But if you want to implement a complex drawing with many small details, then you have to work hard. That is why we advise you to start with the simplest models, gradually increasing the skill!
In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.
Related materials
Sailing ships are divided into frigates and battleships. The most powerful three-masted ships are linear, which are characterized by displacement, armament and the size of the crew.
This class of sailing ships originates from the seventeenth century, with the advent of artillery (cannons), which is able to conduct linear combat (simultaneously with all onboard guns from the line).
In a shortened version, they are called "battleships".
Drawings of models for free download, you can on the website or from other sources.
In May 1715, the Russian gun battleship of the 3rd rank "Ingermanland" (64 guns) was launched from the Admiralty shipyard of the city of St. Petersburg. Peter I himself took part in the development of his drawings. The battleship had impressive dimensions for that time: length - 52m; width - 14m; hold depth - 6m. Peter's gold standard was hoisted on his mast. This ship was for a long time the flagship of the Russian fleet.
Ship ranks in sailing fleet:
- The first rank is a three-deck or four-deck, the largest sailing ship (from sixty to one hundred and thirty guns).
- The second rank is a three-deck (ship with three decks) (from forty to ninety-eight guns).
- The third rank is a two-child (from thirty to eighty-four guns).
- The fourth rank is a two-child (from twenty to sixty guns).
L "Artemise
Artemiz was a frigate of the French fleet. The class of the Magicienne frigate is 600 tons, 32 cannons are on board, 26 of them are twelve long cannons and 6 are sixflooms. The frigate was laid in Toulon in December 1791. It was 44 meters long 20 centimeters .
Frigates, called military single-deck or two-deck three-masted ships. They differed from battleships in smaller sizes. Their mission is a cruising service, reconnaissance (long-range), a sudden attack on an object with a view to further capture or destruction. The largest models were called linear frigates. According to statistics, download free models of frigates more than battleships.
