The iron is a rather simple household device consisting of a heating element, a light bulb showing the operation of modes, a water tank used for stripping, a control button and a knob. It is a necessity, it cannot be replaced by something else. Therefore, its failure is so unpleasant. If you have the iron stopped workingYou should not repair it yourself, because it is not very safe. In addition, it is important to correctly identify causes of iron breakage. If the definition is incorrect, the probability of damage to the other nodes of the device is great
Consider common causes of iron breakage:
So, broke iron. What to do?
Should I repair it with my own hands? Independent repair of the iron is often associated with the occurrence of scratches and cracks on the body due to which a thermostat or handle may fall out. The device may suffer so much that it will be impossible to repair it. Not everyone, even a technically advanced person, has all the necessary tools for diagnosing and repairing a device, much less the necessary parts. Often self-repair of the iron ends with its complete disassembly. In this form, it is brought to the service center, which greatly increases the cost of repairs. If a the iron stopped working, we advise you to contact the service center. The quality and duration of the further operation of the device depends on the level of professionalism and knowledge of the master who is engaged in the repair of equipment. We do not recommend contacting friends, supposedly knowing how repairs are made, or to private masters in order to save. Large companies that legally offer home appliance repair services provide high quality repairs. Here you are protected by law and therefore you can not worry about anything.
Our specialists carry out the repair of irons of the most varied complexity, regardless of what were causes of iron breakage, and offer services to repair any damage.
Such a necessary and important device for preserving the proper kind of things, like an iron, is surely in every home. Everyone knows the main points of its correct use, but, unfortunately, not everyone understands how it can be repaired on its own in the event of a minor breakdown, because it is better to repair an old iron than spend money on a new one. The cause of failure of the iron can be a breakdown of one of its constituent elements.
What to do if the next time you turn on the iron, it does not work? Experts say that 80% of these failures can be fixed on their own, while the remaining 20%, which cause the failure of the heating element to blame, suggest the purchase of a new device, since the repair of an existing iron can result in a much larger amount than the purchase of a new one.
To carry out repairs on your own, a home craftsman will need a tester with a light bulb and a set of screwdrivers.
In any case, when repairing the iron, even if only the cord is to blame for the malfunction, it will be necessary to disassemble the device, which is also a small complexity, because the design decisions are now such that all screws and connecting elements hide as carefully as possible. Despite the fact that the designs of different irons are different, there are several common parts that will help disassemble the device body. So, it is worth remembering that the iron body is always fastened to the sole with cogs, and not just snaps, so in the junction of the sole and the body should look for them carefully. Screws can hide under the water tank, decorative caps or other decoration elements of the device.
First you need to carefully examine the iron and check the operation of all indicators on it. If these indicator lights do not work, then the cause of the malfunction is most often the cord of your iron.
Cord Repair
It is the cord, or rather its incompleteness and inoperative condition, almost every fifth failure of the iron is to blame. Therefore, in order to check whether there is a reason in it, it is necessary to remove the back cover from the iron. To check the integrity of the cord, you can use an ordinary tester.
The cord can be checked for operability by leaning one end of the tester with a light bulb onto the plug, and leaning the battery against the other end of the cord. If the light is off, the problem is in the cord. It must be shortened and checked again.
And if the light bulb after the experiment is lit, then the reason is not in the cord, which means that the iron will need to be disassembled further. But before proceeding with further examination and study of all elements of the iron for their performance, you should use the recommendation, according to which it is better to draw a wiring diagram connecting all the wires, which also did not become a problem when you need to assemble the iron and restore it to its original state.
Thermal Fuse Repair
First you need to disconnect all the wires from the iron, and only then begin attempts to examine the thermal fuse, which is possible only after disassembling the device.
This part of the iron is to blame for half and even most of those cases when the iron refuses to turn on and work. In order to check this part for correct operation, it is necessary to connect wires of continuity calls to it from two sides: if the light does not come on, then the fuse is the fault. The way out of this situation may be the removal of this fuse and shorting in this part of the electrical circuit. This should not be a cause for excitement, because if there is a properly operating thermostat, the absence of a fuse cannot cause danger.
Temperature Control Repair
First, you can try to remove the outer handle of the temperature regulator, prying it, for example, with a knife and making very little effort. If this cannot be done, then it is better to go straight to removing the instrument case, loosening the screws. When all the screws are unscrewed, it will be possible to examine all the “insides” of the iron and try to find the fault here.
Now the process itself checks the temperature controller. To carry out this check is possible by setting it to extreme positions. If this can not be done with sufficient ease, then you can try to do it with pliers. Then it is necessary to check whether there is an electrical circuit with the help of dialing: one end of the dialing is connected to one of the contacts and the other to the other. Then you need to put the regulator in its extreme positions, and if in one of the positions the light comes on, then the thermostat is working, if not, you should clear the contacts. You can do this using sandpaper, or even an ordinary nail file.
Heating element repair
If all the other elements previously tested according to the scheme described above are intact, then the fault of the iron breakdown, unfortunately, is in the heating element. Most often, the heating element is very difficult to remove from the iron and, therefore, to replace, which affects the financial component of the repair. Here masters are recommended to send the iron for recycling.
In this case, before you get rid of the old iron, you can remove from him a working cord, which can be useful in repairing other household appliances.
Other repair
Of course, other elements of the iron can be repaired. So in the steaming system, for example, scum may form, but it will be much easier to get rid of it than the problems described above. But even easier to prevent it, using only distilled or boiled water.
So, during the ironing process, you plugged in, but after a few minutes you realized that the iron wasn’t heating up. It is not necessary in this case to throw out the equipment and go to the store for a new one, since Sometimes the cause of the breakdown is quite simple and does not require professional skills in repairing electrical appliances. Next, we will look at what to do if the iron has stopped heating, as well as how to repair existing damage with your own hands.
Where to begin?
To begin, you should visually inspect the case for cracks, defects and traces of the case melting. Perhaps the appearance immediately and show what exactly is the cause of damage to the iron. If the inspection did not give anything, you need to completely disassemble the case for self-diagnosis of all components.
We draw your attention to the fact that sometimes it is quite difficult to disassemble the iron. This is due to the fact that manufacturers every year devote more time to the design of the electrical device, creating inconspicuous clamps and holes for screws. Initially prepare a set of screwdrivers and a knife that will be useful to you for further action.
Video instructions for disassembling the case
Power cord
One of the main malfunctions of the iron is the power cord, which you, in fact, insert into the socket. 
Get to the place where the contacts connect to the heating element and if there are no visible faults, use the tester to ring the cord to determine its operability. 
For dialing you can use, consisting of a piece of wire, batteries and light bulbs. If the light is on when connecting the contacts to both ends of the cord, go ahead.
If the power cord is the cause of the breakdown, you can try to shorten it by 10-15 cm (perhaps the problem area will be removed). Doesn't the iron work anyway? Replace the cord with a new one!
The second in line - the thermostat. We also check it by dialing, which we attach to the contact group.
When the temperature controller is cranked in the direction of the circuit closure, the electrical circuit must function. Is the light bulb off? We clean the contacts with sandpaper and check again. Immediately recommend viewing the video repair manual:
How to repair a temperature controller
Is the thermostat working, but does the iron not heat up? We start to check the thermal fuse!
More often than a power cord, this circuit element fails. Its main purpose is to disconnect the electrical circuit if the temperature of the heating element exceeds the nominal value. 
Using the dial, we determine the performance of the fuse. If the cause of iron breakage in it, replace it with a new one, or remove it from the circuit altogether. With normal temperature controller operation, there is no need for a fuse.
Heating Element (TEN)
Well, the last of the reasons why the iron does not work, is the failure of the heater. If the technique turns on, the light is on, but the sole does not heat up to the temperature needed, most likely this is the case. As in the previous cases, using the self-made tester, we determine the performance of the product. The heating element is fixed to the sole and if the attachment is permanent, then most likely you will have to say goodbye to the purchase (if the reason is in it). 
In the event that the heating element is connected to the sole with the help of tips, you can try to repair the iron with your own hands by cleaning the contacts with emery paper. Doesn't it get hot anyway? We send equipment for recycling, because A new item costs almost the full cost of the device!
We draw your attention to the fact that if you throw the equipment on the garbage, it will be better to disconnect the power cord and keep it. Perhaps this item will be useful to you in subsequent repairs, the more space in the closet it does not take much!
Steam system
If the fault lies in the fact that the iron steamer does not work, then, most likely, it is necessary to clean the internal cavities of the vaporization. For this we recommend that you use a solution of water and vinegar in the ratio of 1 liter to 1 cup. Set the sole into the container (as shown in the picture), bring the water on the stove to a boil, turn it off and wait until it cools down. After that we repeat the event 3 more times, which is quite enough for high-quality cleaning of the spray gun.
In stores you can see special descalers, but we highly recommend not using them. This is due to the high cost of funds and at the same time low efficiency, compared with the popular way! It should also be noted that in the thematic forums there are many negative reviews about the fact that the iron does not work after cleaning with salt. This is due to the fact that the crystals of salt clog the holes for the supply of steam, as a result of which it is necessary to carefully clean the sole.
Irons, as household appliances appeared a long time ago. They were bulky, heavy and inconvenient to use. The advantage of these devices was their "indestructibility" due to the simplicity of the design. They became useless only when hot coal burned through their metal bottom.
Nowadays, an iron is a high-tech device consisting of several nodes that have fine tuning and coherence.
Fig. 1. Repair iron
When all this is broken, the device knocks and eventually fails. This is due to various reasons. Incorrect operation, the unit drops, the use of chlorinated water for the steam generator and much more. As a result, such a necessary device turns into a useless piece of plastic and metal.
What to do if your favorite device stopped heating up? The main thing is not to panic, but try to return the iron to its working capacity. Often the cause of the malfunction is minor and easily fixed.
Below, the article will describe the troubleshooting of an electric iron and the way to eliminate and repair it yourself.
From tools, you need only a Phillips screwdriver, a multimeter or an ohmmeter and small pliers, called "uknochkami."
Although this iron does not have a steam generator, its electrical circuit and design practically does not differ from the first ones. Therefore, the method of diagnosis and repair of the electrical part is identical.
In photo 2, a device that does not heat up when it is turned on in the network and the thermostat wheel rotates.
Fig. 2. Rotate the regulator, and the iron does not heat up The mains voltage is present, visually the cord and plug have no visible damage.
Judging by the tag (Figure 3), the power of the device is 1000 watts. This is not a big figure, as there are instances of power up to 2500 watts. The more watts consumes iron, the faster it heats up, but more current passes through its circuits and contacts. Therefore, such devices are often subject to conditions under which they fail.
Fig. 3. Specifications As with many irons, you should start by removing the back cover of the case (Figure 4). It rests on one screw, located exactly in the middle of the cover.
Fig. 4. Remove the back case cover Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew this screw.
After the screw has been unscrewed, the cover can be easily removed and the incoming electric circuits of the iron can be seen.
Fig. 5. Electric circuits of iron For ease of installation inside there is a terminal block (Figure 6), to which the incoming cable comes. On the other side of the terminal strip wires go deeper into the device.
With a high power of the iron in this place can occur the burning of wires or the melting of the terminal block. The fact is that this method of clamping with screws is not entirely reliable, as the connection heats up over time and the screw loosens.
At the same time the connection heats up even more and as a result the wire burns out. And this place is often a weak link in the electrical circuit of the device.
Fig. 6. Terminal Block But in the photo everything looks great. No hint of heat and the more broken wire. Most likely, this is due to the small power of the heater.
But in order to make it easier to disassemble in the future, it is necessary to remove the cord clamp, which is held on two screws.
Fig. 7. remove the upper part of the iron Using the same Phillips screwdriver, unscrew one screw and loosen the other.
When the cord is free, pull it out and unscrew the screws of the case.
Fig. 8. unscrew the screws of the case Now go to the front. Both screws in this place are under the water container. This is a regular spray bottle to irrigate clothes before ironing.
Fig. 9. We press on the lock button To remove it, press the release button (Figure 9), and remove the sprayer itself. Next, we get a container for water.
Fig. 10. Take out the sprayer 
Fig. 11. Water container Underneath and hide two screws fastening the body with the sole of iron. Turn off one and then the second screws.
Fig. 12. Turn off the 2 screws After these manipulations, the top cover is easily removed.
Fig. 13. Remove the top cover Only the sole with a protective cover and electrical circuits remains.
Fig. 14. Iron sole Photo 15 shows that the indicator lamp is moving away from the terminal block.
Fig. 15. Indicator light It should signal the operation of the iron when the mains voltage is supplied directly to the heater.
In the center is the thermostat slider (Figure 16) with a slanting guide cut. This cut is necessary to fit the regulator wheel on the top cover with the thermal sensor slider.
Fig. 16. Thermostat engine We take out the neon lamp from the seat (Figure 17) and unscrew the three screws securing the protective casing of the sole (Figure 18).
Next, you need to disconnect the wires going under the casing, otherwise they will interfere. Wires, both incoming and outgoing, have the appropriate color, so there is no need to label them before disconnecting.
Fig. 17. Take out the light bulb 
Fig. 18. Turn off the 3 fastening screws But before that we check if there is a problem in the cord. To do this, we connect the terminals of the device capable of checking the circuit with the blue and brown wires (Figure 19). These colors correspond to the phase, and to the zero of the network 220 V. We twist the thermostat slider first to one and then to the other side.
The device does not show anything, it means that the break is located further under the protective casing.
Fig. 19. We are looking for open circuit. Turn off all the wire clips in turn.
Fig. 20. Turn off the remaining clips of wires After removing the wires from the clips, carefully remove the protective cover.
Fig. 21. Remove the protective cover Put it to the side and again take the pointer chain. We connect its ends with the leads of the heater or heating element. The device shows that the heater is intact, and this is good news, as it is pressed into the sole of the iron.
Fig. 22. Checking the heater There is only a temperature controller.
At one of its conclusions comes the brown wire that goes directly from the network. Having connected the device with this terminal of the thermal sensor (Figure 23), as well as with the white wire that goes to its second contact, rotate the regulator again.
Fig. 23. Check the thermostat Nothing happens, so the thermostat is faulty.
What can be done in this case? The simplest is to replace the regulator. But finding the same will most likely be problematic, especially as a worker.
Some short-circuit the thermal sensor with a piece of wire, thus removing it from the circuit.
But this is not an option, because at best, when overheated, the iron can burn a delicate fabric. And at worst, the whole apartment or house, if you accidentally leave it included in the network. Therefore, direct connection is not an option.
What then can be done? Just adjust the bimetallic plate thermostat. If you look closely, you will notice that the contacts of the thermal relay are open in any position of the regulator knob.
But if you press a bimetallic plate with your finger, the contacts will close at some point. So you need to bend the plate a little and everything should work.
We take the "uchnochki" and seized the bimetal plate with them, slightly rotate it counterclockwise (Figure 24 and 25).
Fig. 24. Rotate the plate bimetal 
Fig. 25 This should be done as carefully as possible and in the middle position of the thermostat slider. At some point you will hear a click, and the contacts close.
We make measurements after revision (Figure 26). It is seen that the contact part of the sensor closes.
Fig. 26. Measurements after revision Now we get the wires into the hole of the casing and stretch them with the fingers on the other side. Wires also gently lay out. We put on the upper part of the case and clamp the screws of its fastening.
It is very important that when connecting the case to the sole (Figure 31), the axis of the wheel of the regulator is precisely cut into the slider on the thermal switch.
To check whether these two parts are correctly connected, you need to rotate the wheel of the regulator in different directions. If it is fixed in two directions, then everything is properly connected and you can continue to build.
Fig. 31. The body is connected to the sole Fix the housing with screws and put the container with a spray.
Fig. 34. Put back the back cover
Turn on the iron in the network and rotate the wheel.
Photo 35 shows that the iron is turned on and heats up.
Fig. 35. Iron works At some point he disconnected himself, dialing the desired temperature.
We turn the wheel to the maximum, and it turns on again. We can assume that the regulator is working correctly and will not fail at the right time. At this repair can be considered complete.
It should be remembered that all work must be done with the device disconnected from the network.
To fix the iron with your own hands, you need to know how this device is made. Considering, we can say that it is structurally similar to such devices as a kettle or heater. The differences are only in the purpose of the devices and the presence of additional nodes.
In the iron, regardless of the country and the manufacturer, there are four main nodes:
- heater;
- plug with cord;
- thermal fuse;
- temperature regulator.
In order for the iron to start working, it is necessary to apply voltage to the tubular heating element located in the bottom of the device. In modern models, such as the "Roventa", used powerful heating elements from 1000 to 2300 watts. If you do not interrupt the process of heating, then the sole of the device will become so hot that it will be suitable except for frying eggs, and not for ironing.
In order to prevent excessive heating, a regulating device is built into the apparatus circuit. The thermostat of the iron depends on the thermal mode, which is selected based on the type of fabric: some materials can be ironed at a temperature of 100 ° C, others need indicators of 200 ° C. In most models, which include Brown irons, the adjusting wheel is located in the upper part of the body. under the handle.
An important node for safety is the fuse. When the device reaches extreme temperatures resulting from a malfunction, the thermal fuse will open the contacts and the iron will turn off.
Before repairing the iron, you need to check the condition of the power cord. Most often it cracks in places of frequent deformation - at the entrance to the body or near the plug. The malfunction may occur gradually when the indicator light flashes during ironing. Such a wink means that there is no normal contact and terminal oxidation is possible.
Another malfunction manifests itself more violently. At long friction of wires against each other the insulating layer can be broken and short circuit can occur. Outwardly, this is manifested by strong cotton, disconnection of other devices and a specific odor characteristic of burnt wiring.
Women who are particularly susceptible, such situations are hurt to the depths of the soul. They perceive the breakdown as a natural disaster and react by calling her husband, in the Ministry of Emergency Situations and house management. The most correct option is the first one, because any man whose hands grow from where they should come from can force the iron back on. Otherwise, you should still turn to the strong half so that he will hand over the thing for repair.
The Internet is filled with videos on the repair of irons. Many plots are devoted to the flaws of the power cord. If the cord is defective near the plug, you will not need to disassemble the device. In the case when suspicion falls on the part that is hidden by the body, disassembly is indispensable. To make, for example, the repair of the iron "Philips" with your own hands, you should remove the back cover. Behind it, the power cord diverges into three wires. If the insulation is damaged, it must be repaired. When oxidizing the terminals, you need to disconnect the wires and clean the problem areas.
Electric Heater Check
The heating element in modern designs is a reliable knot and rarely breaks. When this trouble occurs, it is better not to buy a new heater. Easier to buy a new iron. But first you need to make sure that the problem is in the heating element.
In all models, the heater contacts are soldered to the contacts of the device and connected to an indicator lamp. If the lamp is on, and the iron does not heat up, then the fault is connected with the heating element.
The most common cause of failure of the heating element is a spiral break. Another reason may be insufficient contact of the heating rods with the leads of the device at the connection points.
In some models, the thermal cut-out is included in one heater circuit and the regulator in another. If the fuse is faulty, you can make a false "diagnosis", suspecting a malfunction of the heater. To accurately determine the cause of the failure of the device, it should be completely disassembled.
Problems with thermostat
Temperature control is carried out by a round wheel. It is located in the iron "Azur" and in other models on the body under the handle. When the wheel is turned to the right, the heating temperature increases, to the left it decreases until the heating element is completely turned off.
The wheel acts on the thermostat by means of a special sleeve or steel angle and is attached to the body with the help of latches. In the “Scarlet” iron and in other models, it is enough to pick up the adjustment disk with a screwdriver so that it will come off.
The principle of operation of the thermostat is based on the various properties of metals. In the manufacture of this site soldered two plates made of metals with different linear expansion coefficients. Thanks to these indicators, the plates behave differently. Outwardly, it looks like this: under the influence of temperature, the common plate is bent, causing an open circuit, and the iron is turned on.
To make sure that the temperature regulator is faulty, you will have to disassemble the iron completely.
The handle of the device and the plastic parts of the case are attached to the metal parts with latches or self-tapping screws. Even one manufacturer of models has many, and they all have design features. But there are common moments in all species.
To disassemble the iron, it is necessary to examine its sharp part, where there is one point of attachment. For example, a Philips iron hides a screw under the steam adjustment knob. To unscrew the screw, turn the knob all the way to the left and pull up. After removing the adjustment knot, you can loosen the screw. In the “Brown” model, the screw hides under the nozzle cap. You can remove the nozzle by slightly pulling it towards you. After its removal opens free access to the screw. Other screws or latches are located under the back cover of the device.
After the plastic part of the case has been removed, the iron thermostat should be considered. In cold mode, the contacts must be closed. If there is a special device, it is better to call the node. If the device is not, you can clean the contacts with fine sandpaper, then turn on the iron in the network.
Blame and other faults are at fault.
To fix the iron, you can refer to the statistics, which says that 50-60% of faults occur due to the fact that the thermal breaker fails. This node is a one-time action and reusable. The fuses of the first group, like kamikaze, work only once. The node is designed so that when the heating element reaches a temperature of 240 ° C, the circuit is broken. Further operation of the device without additional intervention becomes impossible.
More modern technologies involve the use of bimetallic parts. Such a thermal fuse is able to turn off the iron in extreme situations, and then turn it on again. If the iron does not work for this reason, the easiest way is to throw the knot out and close the circuit. This can be done in different ways:
- by soldering;
- by crimping the metal rod;
- switching power wires.
In each case, you must achieve reliable contact.
Another common disease is a problem with the steaming system. Sometimes in the “Bosch” iron, the button, which includes the process, is strongly pressed, and steam is not supplied. Repair of the Bosch iron should start with unscrewing the screw at the back and removing the back cover. Then you should gently pull the two buttons that regulate the flow of steam up. They are not fastened with screws and held on bushings due to friction force. Next you need to unscrew the screw, after which the plastic handle should be easily removed. Under the hood there are two pumps: one supplies water to the sprayer, the other delivers water to the sole to create steam. The steam pump must be removed. In the lower part there is a ball that sticks to the bottom of the chamber due to scale. To eliminate the problem, push the ball into the chamber and assemble the iron in the reverse order.
Whatever iron you have to repair, you need to remember about safety and follow certain rules: turn on the device in the network only when necessary; do not attempt to fix the problem with wet hands; during repair, the iron must be installed on a stable, impermeable and heat-resistant coating.
