Daylilies, how to plant and care, to achieve abundant flowering. Incredible daylily: features of planting, care and reproduction in open ground

The Latin name for daylilies or beauty day is Hemerocallis consists of two words meaning “day” and “beauty”. Every beautiful flower is blooming for just one day.

The genus of daylilies has about 25 species. Herbaceous perennials with a developed root system tolerate drought without problems. Straight or arc-curved leaves with smooth edges grow from the root. Large flowers usually have the shape of a funnel of six petals, collected in inflorescences.

The flowering of each bush lasts about a month, but at the same time only a few flowers bloom on the bush. Stems tall - up to one meter, although there are small species 30 cm tall. Seeds ripen in triangular boxes.

Features of growing

All daylilies are unpretentious, grow in the bright sun and in the shade, and in low-lit areas, species with dark petals bloom better. The only requirement is remoteness from large trees and bushes, since, along with them, daylily roots will not be able to extract enough moisture from the soil. Daylilies thrive on light fertile soil.

When highly suitable groundwater beds are recommended to raise, so as not to rot the root system. On very dry soil, plants also cannot exist, but when mulching with peat, mowed grass or sawdust, this problem is solved.

Liliaceans can not be transplanted for a long time, they will continue to grow for 15 or more years, however, the flowers will gradually become smaller.

These types are propagated by seeds and vegetatively, but when sowing seeds almost always the signs of the variety are lost.

Landing

Daylily bush should grow for many years, so carefully prepare the hole for planting. Usually the seedlings seem very small, but over time the bush will grow up to half a meter in diameter.

If the soil is fertile, it is enough to dig a hole about 30 cm deep and pour a mixture of peat, humus and sand into it. In poor soil, dig a hole deeper so that the nutrient mixture containing phosphorus and potassium can fit.

Shake off the ground and wash the bush intended for planting. Consider the roots, so as not to cause disease and pests.
Cut dry and damaged roots and sprinkle ash on the cut areas.
Remove broken and dry leaves.
Dip the bush in the hole and straighten the roots, pressing them to the ground.
Pour nutrient mixture, not filling the hole to the top.
Lightly crush the ground at the roots with your hands, trying not to immerse the bush in the ground.
Water abundantly. Water should fill the hole to the edge. If the moisture goes into the soil quickly, you have not compacted enough. Add dry soil, crimp the roots again and pour again. Pour the well with nutrient mixture.

Mulch should cover the root neck of 1.5-2 centimeters. Ingredients: peat and humus.

Landing time

In the middle lane to plant a daylily is better in May or in August. If you need to land at another time, try to do it in cool weather.

Council Over time, daylilies will grow, so leave between them a distance of 60 cm, for large varieties a one-meter gap is desirable. After 5 years, the bush will reach a maximum in development, and until that time you can fill the voids with other plants.

The soil

Daylilies well take root on ordinary garden soils. In order for the plant to settle down on poor sod-podzolic soil, apply compost with sand, peat and mineral fertilizers. Heavy clay soils do not pass moisture well, therefore, as the air temperature drops, the roots may rot, and the risk of fungal diseases also increases. Sandy soil, by contrast, does not hold water, and the flower will lack moisture and nutrients. Even if the flowers survive, they will be weak.

Planting in the fall

It is undesirable to carry out planting in late autumn, as daylilies take root within a month. Try to plant the autumn planting until the end of September, so that the plant can get used to the frost. If the bushes are planted later, cover them with dry foliage.

Important! After autumn planting, control soil moisture. Slow down plants before frosting. Do not dig the root neck when planting, otherwise the plant will begin to rot and may die. At best, the daylily will not bloom.

Landing in spring

Favorable time for planting - warm days of spring and summer. In the heat, be sure to water the bushes for 7 days; in a month, feed them with liquid fertilizers (mineral or organic).

Selection and illumination

The place for planting white, yellow, pink and other light daylilies should be sunny. Flowers of rich color - red, purple, purple, like a little shaded areas. In the bright sun, dark-colored species fade and fade ahead of time, spots appear on the petals.

Interesting: In hot climates, lily of a dark color can change color during the day.

Do not place flowers near large trees that will pull away moisture. Daylilies are not afraid of wind and drafts; they can be safely planted in blown areas.

Council The daylily adapts itself to life in the shade, but in bright sunlight the flowering of light-colored and hybrid species will be more abundant. On cloudy days, flowers may not open..

Air temperature

Daylilies wake up as soon as the night temperature becomes positive and thaws the soil. Around the middle of April, the plants come out from under the snow with winter leaves that began to grow in the fall. If the snow fell in the fall before the frost and the leaves did not die, they can be destroyed by spring frosts. But these troubles can only slow down the development, the daylily will not die. At the very first autumn frosts the leaves fall down, not having time to turn yellow.

If the temperature drops to negative values in summer during flowering, the flowers become shallow, do not fully open and fade.

Humidity and watering

The daylilies have a strong root system, so the plants extract moisture from the depth and they do not need surface waterlogging. Most daylilies need water in the phase of bud formation and flowering. If winter was snowy, and spring is rainy, flowering will be abundant. In dry weather, the flowers should be watered once a week, so that the soil is soaked 30 cm deep. Re-planted plants and bushes with a not yet developed root system require special attention. In the dry summer bushes require watering twice a week. Since August, water lilies need less water, and in the rain watering should be stopped.

Council You can reduce the number of waterings, if you mulch the soil. Also do not need frequent watering bushes growing in the shade.

Additional watering is required for sandy soils and before fertilizing.

The best time of day for watering lily - evening. Water pour under the bush, which is especially important when flowering. Bathing flowers during this period will cause spots on the petals.

Top dressing and fertilizer

For full flowering and growth in the second year of life, the soil under the daylilies must be fed. In the spring, dry complex fertilizers are scattered at the bushes and watered abundantly. The main recharge should be carried out after flowering, before laying new buds.

Council When spring feeding for each plant, sprinkle a couple of handfuls of compost with 50 grams of mineral mixture. Long-acting fertilizer will ensure daylily growth throughout the season.

When the air humidity is high, the flowers become wet and do not fall off; therefore, they should be broken manually. After the first frost leaves die, they can also be removed before hibernation. Before the onset of winter, it is recommended to trim the peduncles to the ground.

Spring pruning

To rejuvenate the bush, cut all last year’s leaves in spring. So you clean the base of the curtain and young shoots will develop without interference.

Summer pruning

Periodically inspect the bushes and tear off faded flowers with flower stalks. Cut yellow leaves at the base.

Autumn pruning

Dried and yellowed leaves should be left for the winter - they will protect the bush from frost. If the vegetation period is not completed by the first frost, the above-ground part of the bush should be cut off so that there are no pests in the wet leaves. Leave only the youngest leaves, which will insulate the root neck.

Transfer

If necessary, you can transfer at any time, except for winter. The following year, flowering will be scarce, but after a year the plant will recover completely.

Spring transfer

If you transplant a bush in the spring, flowering will come in the summer, but it will not become full. Rhizomes can be stored in a shaded place for up to three weeks, but the roots are preferably prikopat.

Summer transfer

You can not transplant the plant in the heat, because high temperatures can provoke the development of fungal diseases and pathogenic bacteria. Repot shrub cover from direct sunlight and water well. A painless transplant should occur at the beginning of summer, the development of the bush will be very active.

Autumn transplant

The optimal time for an autumn transplant is 4-6 weeks before the first frost. As soon as flowering stops, dig up a bush, inspect the roots, remove the damaged fragments and transplant into the prepared soil so that the daylily can take root before the frost.

Breeding

Daylilies propagated by seed and division of the bush, and cuttings.

Seed propagation

With this method, the characteristics of the variety are not preserved, so only natural species are bred. In species of daylilies, the seeds are not always tied due to the absence of pollinating insects.

Freshly harvested seeds can be sown before winter or spring. The daylily has large seeds that sprout when sown in a cold greenhouse or on a garden bed after diving by 2 centimeters. For spring planting, the seeds are placed in cool soil for two months (up to 4 ° C).

Bushes grown in this way will bloom in 2 or 3 years.

Dividing bush

It is better to divide a bush in the spring, at the beginning of May, when growth begins. Suitable young plants up to 5 years. The roots can be separated by hand or cut, trying not to damage the roots and leaves at the base of the bush. Sprinkle the cut place with crushed coal, and fill the hole with earth and compact.

Cuttings

When flowering ends, some types of daylilies grow rosettes, cuttings consisting of short leaves. From the stem of the mother plant, carefully separate the stalk and shorten the leaves by a third. Plant the rosette on the garden bed, pritenite and regularly spray, and after rooting, water it. In 90 percent of cases, such cuttings take root.

Bloom

All types of daylilies are beautiful: the bright color of the petals, elegant flowers, a variety of forms and long flowering attract gardeners around the world. A huge selection of daylilies is on sale, the height of the plant and the flowering time are indicated on the packets.

Council If a planted daylily does not have time to bloom in the first year, transplant it into a pot to return to the garden in the spring.

The earliest varieties bloom in late May - early June. There are few such species, and they resemble natural daylilies.
Early start to bloom in early July.
Average wake up towards the end of July.
Late buds in August.

Early varieties bloom shorter than late ones. For example, June gladdens about a month, and in August species bloom lasts 55-65 days. The period and timing of flowering depend on the weather - in a warm and sunny summer daylilies bloom early, each flower lives only one day, but a new one appears on the next. In cloudy weather, the next flower opens every other day. Buds are laid in autumn and spring, you can count how many flowers will be on each bush. In a warm year, flowering is stormy, but the total flowering time is reduced.

Daylilies - plants trouble-free. The main rules of care - the timely removal of wilted inflorescences, which usually infest bacteria and pests.

Important! In our climate in the spring daylilies grow poorly, often they have yellow tips of the leaves. The reason is frequent temperature fluctuations. It is not necessary to treat such plants, in summer these symptoms will disappear without intervention..

Common daylily diseases:

Rot root collar. The leaves turn yellow, the root neck becomes soft, there is an unpleasant smell. Avoid stagnant water and do not apply nitrogen fertilizer. Dig a plant, hold the roots for 15 minutes in a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate and dry in the open air.

Stripes There are yellow stripes and brownish spots caused by the fungus. Yellowed leaves fly around, but the plant does not die. Treat healthy leaves with a 0.2% base solution.

Rust. Pustules are formed with yellow powder, leaves fall, flowering stops.

Pests

Daylily mosquito - the larvae damage the buds and they fall off. Cut the buds with the larvae and burn them.

Thrips - insects living in the axils of the leaves and in the petals. On the leaves, spots are formed, on the leaves - strokes, buds fall. Insecticides do not usually help. Water the roots of the plant regularly, especially in dry weather.

Problems

Fragility. If summer is warm and humid, flower stalks often burst. Flowering while continuing.

Light spots on the flowers are noticeable in varieties with a red, purple or violet color. The pigment of the cover of the petals burns out during the rains, replaced by a bright sun. Yellow and orange species are not at risk.

Underdevelopment of flowers. This is a problem of individual varieties, which may disappear next year.

Popular species

Middendorf. Early flowering variety with high stem.
Daylily yellow. Begins to bloom in late May.
Folkor Long flowering time - midsummer.
Partenopa. Large flowers open in mid-June.

Daylily hybrid. A huge group of varieties that differ in color, terry, aroma and flowering time.

The most common are Golden Orchids, Pink Damascus, Stafford, Scarlet Orbit, Karl Rossi.

Daylily useful watering infusion of nettle. First, water the bush with clean water, and after that - with herbal infusion.
It is possible to spray leaves in the evening or in the early morning, when the air temperature is above + 12oC.
Do not overfeed daylilies, otherwise the leaves will develop to the detriment of flowers.

Answers to readers' questions

How many daylilies live?

The plant is unpretentious and can live without transplants for up to 15 years. Each flower dies in the evening, but tomorrow or the day after tomorrow it is replaced by a new, often not one, opened bud.

Why daylily does not bloom?

There may be several reasons. Perhaps you planted a plant recently, and it has not yet had time to settle. Sometimes flowering does not occur due to an excess of nitrogen fertilizer, too deep planting. In areas where the sun's rays penetrate less than 6 hours a day, the flower may cancel flowering.

Why does the daylily turn yellow leaves?

There may be too much nitrogen or ash in the soil, perhaps the soil is acidic and dense. The viral nature of the disease is not excluded. If the land is not swamped and you have not applied fertilizer, spray the leaves with brilliant green solution (bubble per liter of water). A noticeable improvement may come in a few days. If this measure does not help, dig up a bush, wash the roots in potassium permanganate and plant in a new place.

Winter daylily care

Winter sleep of daylilies lasts only two months. It is necessary to cover bushes only in severe or snowless winters. Do not cut the leaves in the fall, and the rhizome will be sufficiently insulated. Plant young plants with spruce branches.

The daylily plant is boldly called a culture for lazy gardeners. Even the almost complete lack of care does not prevent its elegant flowering. You can decorate the garden with daylilies “savages”, as well as hybrids and varieties of incredible beauty, bred by breeders.

They are called flowers of joy - one can not rejoice, looking at the bright flowers. They believe that they bring good luck, taking all the sorrow and sorrow away.

The culture prefers solar illumination, but it also feels good in a slight shading (rather active illumination of the site for 6 hours a day). They do not impose special requirements on the composition of the soil, they successfully grow in one place for many years, forming lush flowering thickets. Perfectly adapted to the vagaries of the weather.

When does a daylily bloom?

Dates of the daylily bloom: active bloom occurs in April-June.

For a successful daylily, several points should be identified: how to choose a place, when and how to plant, what, even if minimal, care is required.

Place for planting a daylily

It is very important to immediately choose the site for cultivation, since daylilies are long-lived. Curtains with the most beautiful multi-colored corollas without transplant cost about 15 years.

When choosing a site for daylily, note that it develops best under bright lighting. It is not afraid of drafts and strong gusts of wind. In such conditions, most garden crops will feel uncomfortable - daylilies help a lot. For free sprawl, give him a space that will not be limited to shrubs, trees, large herbaceous plants. They can be a plant competition.

Note that the root system should not suffer from the close occurrence of groundwater and spring flooding.

Terms of planting daylilies in open ground

Planting daylilies in open ground can be attributed to the benefits of the plant. This can be done throughout the warm season. Nothing prevents you from doing transplanting until the fall.

The most successful spring planting passes - seedlings root quickly and go in growth, will come in the same season. If the weather is cold, planting material outside the ground can be stored for about a month: sprinkle the root system with sand or sand and peat mixture, you can move it with a damp cloth. At the same time cut the sheet plates in half or 1/3 to reduce the need for plants in moisture.

If the summer is not hot, you can land at this time.

There is a risk during autumn planting.that before the onset of cold weather plants do not have time to take root, they can freeze out in winter or, if they do not die, will be weak. In winter, young plantings should be spudded with earth, and mulch the soil with foliage or straw.

According to experienced gardeners, in the middle zone, the most favorable months for planting a daylily are May and August.

Planting daylily in spring in open ground

How to plant a daylily photo

Should prepare for planting. Inspect them, remove dry, damaged, or rotted roots. Treat the cut sections with a fungicide. Greens can be cut, moving 10-15 cm from the base of the leaf plates.

If the roots are dry at the time of planting in the open ground, the seedlings should be soaked in a solution with a growth stimulator for 4 hours.

Daylily grows well in loose, light soil neutral or slightly acid reaction - this is the usual garden soil.

Dig the area to the depth of a full bayonet shovel. Dilute clay soil or loam with rotted manure, compost and sand.
Planting pits make the size of the root system.
If the soil is depleted, prepare a nutrient mixture: humus and peat with the addition of 30 g of potassium and phosphorus per 1 bucket of substrate.
In the planting hole, fill the ground with a hill, place the seedling on top of the ground, carefully spread the rhizome so that the roots do not bend.
Sprinkle with earth and slightly compact the soil around the seedling, water it, the root collar can be buried 2-3 cm.
Between individual plants keep a distance of 70 cm.

To reduce moisture evaporation, the soil around the plant can be mulched. Use the materials at hand (tree bark, needles, straw). In the same way a daylily is planted in summer and autumn.

How to care for daylilies in the garden

Procedures for daylily minimal: water, periodically loosen the soil, remove the weeds.

Watering

Actively growing and flowering daylily needs regular watering. Faint leaves indicate a lack of moisture; flower buds can be thrown off. In the heat, water abundantly so that the soil gets wet by 20-30 cm (to the depth of the root system). Also, the daylily will respond to fine sprinkling. With enough rainfall, reduce watering.

The best time for water treatment is evening or early morning - there is no risk of burns.

Top dressing

In the first season after the plant enough nutrients. Starting from the second year, start feeding. Use complex mineral fertilizers. The proportion of nitrogen should be moderate, so as not to provoke excessive tillering at the expense of flowering. Feed in the spring, a couple of times in the summer. Toward the fall, apply potash-phosphate fertilizer to strengthen the plant for wintering.

Shelter for the winter

The plants are tall, but the daylily can suffer during snowless winters. Cover with needles, spruce branches or other materials at hand. Free from cover as soon as the active melting of the snow begins, so that the root neck does not overheat and does not rip.

Daylily breeding

Usually the daylily is propagated vegetatively (division of a bush, rooting of a leaf rosette). During seed reproduction, varietal differences are lost from their seeds — that is why daylily is grown from seeds only if they are purchased from a reputable manufacturer.

When you need to plant a daylily or why it does not bloom

Maximum lush bush daylily falls on the first 5-7 years, then peduncles among the lush greenery appear less frequently, and inflorescences shrink. The situation can be corrected by the usual division of the bush. Unpretentious culture easily transfers the process of division and transplantation.

To divide the daylily shrub, carefully dig it from all sides to extract along with the root system.
The resulting knife is carefully divided into separate parts so that at least one green shoot remains with part of the rhizome.

The resulting delenki planted as described above.

Daylily breeding by airborne babies - proliferators

Proliferation - Another method of breeding daylily. What he really is? This rooting leaf rosettes formed on the peduncle (proliferation). They must be well developed.

Wait until the upper part of the peduncle, going to the outlet, withers, then cut out part of the peduncle together with the outlet and place it in the water for rooting.

Shorten the leaves by 1/3 of the length.
You can add a couple drops of growth stimulant.

When the roots reach a length of 4-5 cm, plant in pots with light soil and grow in room conditions until spring.
In open ground in late April and early May.

Growing a daylily from seed at home

Daylily seeds at home can be at the end of February.
Daylily seeds are quite large. They are soaked before planting, spreading out on moist small pebbles, perlite or damp cloth.
When the seeds hatch, they are carefully seated in separate cups or pots filled with universal soil for seedlings.
Be sure to at the bottom of the tank should be drainage holes.

Seedlings grow on a warm sunny window.
Regularly watered without stagnant moisture, fed 1-2 times a month with complex fertilizers.
In late May, when there will be no frost, daylily seedlings can be planted in the ground.
Pre-harden the plants for 1-2 weeks.

Types of daylily with photo and names

Culturally grown 3 species of daylily.

Daylily brown-yellow Hemerocallis fulva

On the peduncle of meter height there are six-petal halos of orange shade.

Daylily yellow Hemerocallis flava

The corollas of a primed yellow shade slightly wilted.

Daylily lemon yellow Hemerocallis citrine

Corollas lemon-yellow shade reach a diameter of about 10 cm.

There are about 30,000 varieties of daylily - painstaking work of breeders.

They can be divided according to the shape of inflorescences:

Simple (most close to natural species);
Terry (have a double, triple set of petals);
Arachnoid (elongated petals make the flower look like a given insect);
The form is unusual or indefinite;
Multiforms (can be assigned to several groups at once).

There are daylilies by flowering period:

The dates are early and late, there are varieties with wave flowering (several times per season).
There are also day and night views.

Growth classification:

Miniature varieties with a height of 30-40 cm (corolla diameter 7-8 cm)
Tall, reaching a maximum height of 1.5 m (the diameter of the corolla can reach 15-17 cm).

The best varieties of daylily with photo names and descriptions

Frans Hals - plant height 60-80 cm, peduncle ends in yellow-orange halos with a wavy edge, diameter is 12-15 cm.

Bonanza - in the center of the corolla of yellow color there is a spraying of a red-wine hue. Differs in regular flowering, high frost resistance.

There are varieties of daylilies, whose inflorescences resemble gladioli in appearance:

Daylily ‘Longfields Pearl’ Longfields Pearl photo

Longfields Pearl - flowers of yellow-cream color bloom in August, delighting until mid-autumn. The diameter of the corolla is 10 cm.

Daylily Stella De Oro Stella De Oro photo

Stella De Oro - bush height is 30-40 cm. Yellow corollas are 6-7 cm. It has a long flowering period. Baby will become a real star of the garden: low-growing bushes will look spectacular along the paths in the border plantings.

New daylily varieties:

Catherine Woodbery - the petals of the classic daylily form have a quivering lilac shade that changes depending on the light (it turns pink-yellow under the bright sun, and shows a lilac-pink delicacy in shading). Diameter - 12-16 cm.

Night Beacon - a colorful contrast of the yellow-green core and purple petals, does not fade under the sun. Corollas reach a diameter of 8 cm.

Double River Wye - terry beaters with a diameter of about 12 cm, color - rich yellow.

Bestseller - the height of the bush is 60-70 cm. Large beaters (14 cm in diameter) are impressive in shape and color. They are simple, but at the edges of pink-purple petals there is a convoluted frill of a greenish-yellow shade.

Hemerocallis Diva’s Choice Daylily Divas Choice photo

Diva’s Choice - in the depth of the neck there is a spot of creamy-yellow hue, smoothly turning into petals of pink-cream color, which becomes salmon-coral as it blooms. The record diameter of inflorescences is 17 cm. One peduncle holds 3-4 halos.

Daylily Pandoras boxing Hemerocallis Pandora’s box photo

Pandora’s box - with a half-meter-high bush height, pleases with inflorescences about 10 cm in diameter. The neck of a halo of lime tint, then a bright middle looks like a handful of ripe cherries ending in pastel-yellow petals.

Daylily Pardon Mi Hemerocallis Pardon Me photo

Pardon Me - the leader among the stunted varieties. It blooms from June to late September. Lime shade neck, petals dark cherry color.

Night Embers - the height of the bush is 75 cm. Terry crowns, with a diameter of 12-15 cm. Petals are velvet-like, raspberry-wine hue.

Lacy Doily - a bush makes height of 60-80 cm. Graceful terry flowers have a gentle-pink shade.

Double Dream is truly a dream. Huge (diameter 15 cm) terry corolla from creamy cream to salmon shade. Early blooms, ready to grow in the sun, tolerates the absence of the strait, not afraid of frost.

Red Rum - scarlet inflorescences with a diameter of 10 cm please in the period June-August.

Black Stockings - new (launched in 2015). It strikes with a diameter of a rim of 15 cm and a purple-violet shade of petals, the yellowish core illuminates from the inside. The edges of the petals are corrugated.

Little Anna Rosa is a miniature 40 cm in height, the diameter of the corolla is 8 cm. The heart is of a rich lemon color, the petals are of a delicate pink shade with corrugated edges. It has 2 flowering waves.

Mildred Mitchell - wreaths of huge sizes (18 cm in diameter) open in June-July, repeating flowering in autumn. The color is tender, in pink and purple colors.

Burgundy Love - you can expect 2-3 waves of flowering from it. Corrugated petals have a noble burgundy shade.

Daylilies in garden design photo selection:

Daylily is often called the "perfect perennial" for many positive qualities. Bright flowering, a variety of varieties and colors, resistance to drought and heat, undemanding care, all these advantages made the flower one of the favorite plants of landscape designers and flower growers. But how to grow a daylily? Planting of this culture should be carried out taking into account the rules, without which it will not be possible to get a long lush bloom.

Daylily - immaculate unpretentious perennial.

The genus Daylily has about 60 thousand varieties, which are replenished annually with new hybrids. In the period of flowering on one flower stalk, 2-3 flowers open daily, which dry up in the evening, and new buds appear in their place. There are night varieties of daylilies that bloom throughout the night. If you like evening walks in the garden, pay attention to these views.

The shapes and shades of daylily flowers are diverse. Usually the plants reach 45 cm - 1.25 m in height. Their basal leaves are two-row, in the form of a broad line, pointed at the end, very highly decorative. The total duration of flowering - 1-5 weeks. Depending on the variety, flowering occurs in the period from early spring to late autumn.

Where and how best to plant a daylily?

Plant daylilies in early spring or early autumn, taking into account the climatic features of the area. The plant should be able to root well before the first frost.

Daylily prefers fertile loam and well-drained soil. Add organic matter to heavy soil and clay or compost to too light. If there is little space for planting, you can put the plants in containers.

The terrain must be sunny or partially shaded. The lighter bloom, the more sunny color is required. If the daylily lacks the sun, it grows poorly and stops blooming.

Planting a daylily:

before planting we dip the seedling root into a solution of water and mineral fertilizer;
remove dried or diseased roots;
prune leaves to 15 cm;
digging holes slightly larger than the root;
at the bottom of the holes we fill the soil mixture with soil, compost, organic fertilizer, peat and sand;
we place the seedling in the hole so that its basal neck is 2-2.5 cm below ground level;
we sprinkle the roots with the prepared soil mixture, we fall asleep with earth, slightly compacted;
water the soil, and, if necessary, mulch the soil.

We plant seedlings at a distance of 45-65 cm from each other. We leave more space for fast-growing hybrids - up to 80-90 cm.

How to propagate daylily?

Popular daylily breeding methods are dividing a bush and transplanting air layering. Planting seeds is used more often in breeding work, since this method is not always suitable for preserving the varietal characteristics of a plant.

When to divide and transplant daylilies?

The method of separation of the bush is used every 5-7 years, when it is necessary to transplant the old plant: while reducing the decorative characteristics and the deterioration of the quality of flowering. Allowable time for transplantation - late autumn (1.5 weeks before frost), or early spring (early-mid-April).

How to propagate the daylily by dividing the bush:

we dig up a bush, not especially trying to be delicate;

we wash the roots, divide it into delenki manually or with a knife;

root slices are treated with fungicide;

transplant delenki to a new place, if necessary, mulch the soil.

With proper planting, strong and strong delenki bloom in the first year after placing in open ground.

How to propagate daylily by air layouts

Small layers are formed on the stem in the axil of the leaves after flowering. Planting these seedlings is a simple method that allows you to get a full-fledged plant in the shortest time possible.

To do this, we perform the following actions:

after the stem has dried, cut off the matured outlet at a distance of 4 cm from the node;
put a branch in the water to get a strong root;
before planting, cut the leaf bundle up to 8 cm for better plant development;
we plant plank in open ground 7 weeks before the onset of frost;
we place the sprout so that the leaf nodule with roots is 1-2 cm below ground level, we mulch the soil;
if transplanting is done in late autumn, we plant the layers in a pot with light soil, sprinkle with a 1-cm layer of sand on top, leave the plant in a bright and warm place.

Cuttings planted in pots, watering throughout the winter, and in April we begin to harden: we take out into the street, gradually increasing the time the young plant is in the open air. We plant in open ground at the end of May.

Daylilies: basic care

With the arrival of spring, remove the layer of mulch, loosen the earth. In the first year after planting, you can not make fertilizers, and in the future we use complex feed with a low nitrogen content (spring), and potash-phosphorus - in winter.
Abundant watering is needed daylilies throughout the season. With insufficient moisture, the leaves turn yellow, lose their attractiveness and decoration. Water is poured at the very stem, not allowing it to fall on the buds.

Immediately remove faded flowers and seeds, this will accelerate the growth of new buds. Also cut dry dead leaves. At the end of the season, before frosts, we cut the leaves under the root and mulch the earth with peat.

What day lily plant: the best varieties

When choosing a daylily variety for planting, note that there are early, medium and late flowering species. This range will allow us to decorate the site with gorgeous and bright flowers that bloom from spring to autumn.

Daylily Strutter’s Ball grade (Straters Ball)

Strutter’s Ball Daylily is a very popular variety of daylily, the flowers of which look like luxurious purple bells measuring 15 cm. Bush up to 1 m in height. Blooms closer to mid-July, 15-centimeter flowers. The petals are dark cherry, with a bright yellow stripe that goes from the center of the flower to the tip of the petal. Blossoms within 1-1.5 months. It multiplies well. With such a flower your bed will not go unnoticed.

Daylily grade Strawberry Candy (Strawberry candies)

Variety "Strawberry Candy" refers to the earliest. Bushes up to 70-75 cm in height, flowers up to 11 cm in diameter, with wide petals corrugated along the edge. The middle of the flower is bright yellow, the tone of the petals closer to the center is rich strawberry, gradually turning into caramel. It blooms for the first time at the end of June, and again at the end of August. Variety "Strawberry Candy" has received many medals and awards in the United States.

Daylily Stella D’Oro grade (Stella D’Oro)

Stella D’Oro flowers decorate the garden from May to mid-autumn. The plant is stunted (up to 35-40 cm in height), but at the same time, it is characterized by abundant long flowering. Flowers lush, with a diameter of 6-6.5 cm, rounded, yellow-golden hue. Petals densely planted, with a beautiful corrugated edge. Leaves highly decorative, light green color. Daylily Stella D’Oro was bred in 1975 by amateur grower V. Yablonsky.

Daylily grade Siloam Double Classic (Siloam Double Classic)

Daylily “Siloam Double Classic”, which is known for its sweet aroma, blooms in early summer with large apricot-pink double flowers with a diameter of 10-12 cm. The flowering period lasts all summer. Shrubs 50-70 cm in height. The winner of numerous competitions, the variety was awarded the highest award in the most prestigious for the daylily international competition Stout Medal.

Daylily Double River Wye (Double River Vai)

Flowers terry, saturated lemon shade. The variety has a long flowering - from late July to early October. Bushes up to 1 m in height, flowers up to 14-15 cm in diameter. On 1 peduncle usually forms up to 20 flowers. Leaves rich green, highly decorative, decorate the site throughout the season. The variety is very popular with landscape designers.

Daylilies are perfectly combined in a bed with a host, phlox, iris and lily. Knowing the rules of daylily cultivation - planting and simple care, you will receive a flower that will only delight you all season.

Luxury daylilies will decorate any front garden. So that they please the eye with large flowers, you need to periodically replant them. Transplanting daylilies to another place is carried out according to certain rules that fans of these beautiful flowers should know.

These perennials can grow in one place for up to 15 years. Over time, the bush increases, but the size of the inflorescences decreases. To save large heads of flowers, you need to replant them every 5 years. In this case, the plant can be divided into parts and get a few new bushes.

Source: Depositphotos

Daylily transplantation is possible in any warm month of the year.

For daylilies to take root in a new place, select it correctly:

- The plant loves the sun. Find a site away from large crown trees or lush bushes. It should not be in the valley. But for daylilies with dark buds - purple, purple, burgundy - and slightly darkened areas will do.

- At the site of landing a drainage layer is needed so that there is no stagnant water.

- Daylilies love slightly acidic or neutral soils saturated with organic matter.

Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball, pour loose earth into the center. Straighten the roots and place them in loose soil. If the roots are too long, you can cut them to 15 centimeters. Sprinkle with earth and lightly tamp. The root neck of the plant should rise a couple of centimeters above the ground.

After planting a bush, it is necessary to irrigate the ground under it abundantly, for 14 days it is necessary to water the plant daily, then - as the soil dries. And in a month to make mineral fertilizers.

When it is better to do a daylily transplant

It is believed that doing it better in the middle of spring. But it is possible at other times in warm weather - the daylilies take root perfectly. Shrubs with large roots, transplanted in the spring, will bloom already this season. If the root system is weak, then flowering can be expected only next summer.

Even flowering bushes can find a new home. If you want to move the daylilies in summer, during flowering, do not cut off the rhizomes and do not separate the bushes. It hurts them. Carefully remove only the rotten roots, and cuts the sections with ash.

In the fall, daylilies are also transplanted. But only early: the plant takes time to root.

Deadlines depend on the variety and climatic zone, the range - from mid-October to mid-November. It is better to do spring and summer transplantation in the evening, and autumn one in the afternoon, as the air becomes cooler.

Uncomplicated care, trouble-free rooting and luxurious appearance make daylilies the favorite flowers of novice gardeners.

Place for planting daylilies in the ground in spring

When choosing a site for daylily, you need to take into account that plants love the sun, are not afraid of the wind, and develop beautifully where other ornamental perennials will feel oppressed. For free growth, daylilies need freedom. They do not like when there are large plants, shrubs and trees nearby, becoming for flowers a kind of competitors for a place in the sun.

Experienced growers advise light varieties of daylilies to be planted in more illuminated places, and for purple, red, multicolor varieties with an important color saturation, look for areas with a little shading.

To simplify the care of daylilies after they are planted in open ground, plants are selected for places that do not heat up in spring. In summer, the powerful rhizomes of plants should not suffer from the close occurrence of groundwater.

The best time to plant a daylily at the site

Daylilies are peculiar long-livers. Beautiful flowers, forming a curtain decorated with multi-colored corolla, they can grow up to one and a half decades without transplantation. This should be taken into account when choosing a place for plants in the garden, and also to know that only 5–7 years will be the most lush flowering. Then, flower stalks among thick foliage appear less frequently, and the flowers on them are much smaller than before. Therefore, every few years the plants are transplanted, dividing adult perennials.

Unpretentious culture easily transfers this procedure from early spring to autumn. But planting daylilies in the ground in the spring always passes without complications, delenki quickly take root and grow, blooming in the same season.

Spring weather is changeable, and if there is a danger of frost, landing is better to postpone. The planting material acquired or obtained after dividing your own plants can be stored for about a month by prikopat plant root system in the sand, peat-sand substrate, or shifting with a damp cloth. Sheet daylily leaves are cut in half or a third to reduce the need of the plant for moisture.

If summer is not hot, and for daylilies, when planted in the ground, as in spring, it is realistic to create comfortable conditions, nothing prevents you from decorating the garden until the fall. But during the autumn planting there is a risk that the plants will not have time to take root well, and the next year, if they survive, they will be very weak.

How to plant daylilies in spring

Before moving the seedlings to the garden, they need to be prepared for planting:

Daylily delenki inspect, remove damaged, dry or rotted roots.
Sections are treated with powdered wood or activated carbon that has been ground to a consistency.
If this is not done before, the foliage is cut 10–15 cm above the base of the leaf plates.

Often, planting material purchased at the store had dried up by the time the daylily was planted in the open ground, and care for such a plant begins with a 4-hour soaking of the root system in a growth stimulator.

The place is chosen, the planting material is waiting for it to be transferred to the ground. It remains only to prepare the soil suitable for daylilies and begin planting. Decorative perennials prefer a loose, light substrate with a neutral or slightly acid reaction.

Before planting daylilies in the spring, the soil in their future place of residence must be dug up with shovels on a full bayonet. Next, make a landing pit, sufficient to accommodate the rhizomes. For more convenience:

at the bottom pour a cone of loosened substrate;
over the ground have a plant;
gently laid out on the soil rhizomes;
sprinkle the underground part of the daylily with soil so that the root collar does not sink more than a couple of centimeters.

After planting is complete, the ground around is slightly tamped down, and the daylily is watered.

To reduce the evaporation of moisture, the soil under the plants can be mulched using any available means, such as rotted bark or needles, straw, or specialized material.

Daylily care after planting in open ground

Regular care of plants after planting consists in watering, loosening the soil and removing weeds.

In the warm season, actively growing and flowering perennials require a lot of water. If daylilies are thirsty, this can be seen in faded foliage, rejection or budding. Perennials respond excellently to additional summer humidification. Therefore, daylilies can be planted in reservoirs or use very fine sprinkling;

In hot weather, daylilies are plentifully watered, so that the soil beneath them is wetted by 20–30 cm, that is, to the depth of the root system.
If summer is not hot, you can reduce the frequency of watering, but you need to monitor the standing foliage.

The best time to water the daylilies is early morning or evening, when there is no risk of sunburn on the flowers.

With proper planting and care, daylily flowers, as in the photo, appear the same summer. In the first year, the plants do not additionally feed. The introduction of complex fertilizers for flowering ornamental crops begin next spring. When choosing a product, it is better to give preference to formulations with a moderate nitrogen content, which causes foliage to overgrow at the expense of flowering. Over the summer, perennials feed up twice, and closer to autumn plants get potassium phosphate fertilizers for better preparation for winter.

Plants are hardy, but may suffer when there is too little snow on the site. Therefore, it is better to cover daylilies in snowless winters with fragrant twigs, needles, straw and other improvised materials. As soon as the mass melting of the snow begins, the daylilies are released, otherwise a prelum develops on the root necks of the plants.

It can be seen on the cultivation of daylilies in the country

The popularity of the daylily in our country and in the world is growing every day, due to the variety of shapes, colors and unpretentiousness.

Daylily will fit into any landscape, as you can choose from stately spiders and UFOs (of unusual / irregular shape), which are ideal for the background of a flower bed, and miniature mini for a curb and a slide, and of course, a huge choice of color varieties round shape. Love all the large and pompous, then you should pay attention to the corrugated daylilies, whose border looks like an elegant jabot.

But in the northern and middle latitudes with their short summer and lack of heat and sun, some varieties of daylilies may bloom poorly or not show up in a flower of all the exoticism declared by the hybridizer.

What to do in such cases?

First, try to choose time-tested varieties that have been adapted in the gardens of collectors. Secondly, in order to avoid any force majeure, I recommend paying attention primarily to sleeping varieties (DOR), since they will not perish in any winter and weather.

Thirdly, pay attention to the number of branches (branches) and buds (buds) on the peduncle declared by the original (you can see in the main daylily database: www.daylilies.org/DaylilyDB/search.php). The ichthones and the application, the more profuse the flowering will be.

Fourthly, if your garden is located in the northern (especially) and middle latitudes, then I recommend paying attention to varieties with a simple flower shape, since short summers and lack of heat and sun do not reflect well on the dissolution and flowering of varieties with a more “fancy” border patterned and jagged edge. Such varieties are more suitable for Chernozem region and southern regions.

Now consider controversial issues in agricultural technology.

See also: Daylilies (photo) - description of care

The daylily lovers constantly have a question: cut the leaves for the winter or not?

Long-term practice has shown that it is not necessary to do this. Why? First, the old foliage in the late autumn and winter will act as a shelter, especially in severe frosts on bare ground. Secondly, it favorably affects the general wintering of semi-evergreen (SEV) and evergreen (EVR) varieties, since they do not have a clear rest period, and pruning in the fall will provoke a resumption of growth during the autumn and winter thaws.

Also, many newcomers to this culture are shocked by rotten to the base of the fan (in semi-evergreen and evergreen) after the plants come out from under the snow. Many believe that the plant died, and begin to dig. Practice has shown that this is not worth doing. Why? When digging and then when re-planting, the plants lose a lot of vitality (they have already come out of the winter weakened), which often ends in failure.

What to do? It is necessary to remove all the frozen and rotted leaves to the very base of the root collar, then with the index finger clean out all remaining rottenness to the solid base of the cervix, if necessary, remove the ground from the root collar. Thus you give dry place stripping. As soon as the base is dry and without any signs of decay, I recommend sprinkling the cleaning site with any fungicide. If you did everything right and in time, then after a while the lateral buds will wake up and the plant will recover. In 95% of cases, the plant survives and may even please with flowering in the same year.

Attention! If, when checking the root collar, the finger does not feel a solid base and goes much deeper than the neck level, then 99% of the plant died.

See also: Daylilies - planting, care, cultivation and varieties of daylilies - Part 1

The issue of the quality of the purchased daylily material is also acute.

It is clear as day that everyone wants to get large roots from green leaf. But this is ideally, as a rule, we get small and dried roots with completely dried foliage.

This, as a rule, is connected with long transportation (for example, from the USA) or prolonged storage (when orders are very large and excavation takes place in stages). Do not worry much about this.

You will need to free the plant from dried foliage (especially if the roots are supported during transportation), shorten the shoots (if they are long and discolored), cut the rotted roots and soak for a day or two in water with the addition of any growth promoter and root formation. After a few hours you will see how your "crackers" will start to come alive and new roots will appear.

Remember: daylily is very difficult to ditch, unless you initially got it with viral rot (the leaves and root collar are soft and deplete the foul rotten smell), in this case the plant cannot be saved. But as a rule, it rarely comes from local collectors.

Before planting, you can still soak in any fungicide, so to speak for safety net. It is better to land the plant itself in cloudy weather, but if it is sunny and hot, then it will be necessary to land the plant for 5-10 days (depending on further weather conditions) with drawers, lutrasil or camouflage net on supports. To fertilize such frail plants during planting would not recommend, it is better to do this later, when the plant enters the phase of active growth.

Do I need to fertilize daylilies, and if so, what?

The most important “fertilizer” for daylily is H20, i.e. water. Yes, yes, the development of the whole plant, the size of the flower, the abundance of flowering and even the quality of the coloring depend on the quality of watering. Although it is believed that daylilies can grow and bloom without additional watering, but the plant itself is very moisture-loving.

It loves both abundant watering under the root with soil soaking to a depth of 20-25 cm, and sprinkling over the aerial part of the plant (of course, not in the scorching sun). As for organic and mineral fertilizers, they also have a beneficial effect on the development of the plant, especially if it is new-fashioned exotic plants, which in our latitudes require more strength and nutrients to confirm their beauty.

For such “gentlemen”, it is possible to recommend 3 meals a day with complex fertilizers with microelements: at the early growth stage — with a slightly higher nitrogen content, at the bud formation stage — with a slightly higher potassium content, and two weeks after flowering — with no nitrogen at all, those. potassium + phosphorus. The same menu is suitable for all other daylilies.

Top dressing on the leaf is particularly relevant in gardens with sandy soil, where the leaching of minerals occurs very quickly, and often the plants do not have time to get the required dose.

The quality of flowering and the flower itself (especially its size) are influenced by the thickening of the plantings: the more densely the daylilies sit together, the smaller the flowers. The optimal distance between the bushes - 34-40 cm.

Sometimes people are interested in the depth to which a daylily should be planted, since some of the bushes stick out of the ground (they can eventually freeze out), others go heavily into the ground (they can be rotten). The optimal depth of planting on loams is 3 cm, on sandy soils - 5 cm.

Another topical and recently frequently emerging question is the question. meristems (cloning) daylilies.

Based on many years of experience, I can say that simple monochromatic daylilies without any frills and bells and whistles almost completely convey all the properties of their vegetatively propagated counterparts.

But! If there is a question about varieties with foamed corrugation, appliqué pattern, pattern and serration, then here the meristem loses much, and as a rule, you will not get that beautiful flower that was stated in the picture of the package purchased in the store.

Here you have two varieties for comparison. On the left is the meristem, on the right is a vegetatively propagated specimen (import from the USA).

Also, in meristem daylilies, you may encounter a complete lack of flowering, you just have to “enjoy” only green foliage.

I will share one more observation related to the varieties of modern tendencies: kaleidoscopes, patterned and toothed daylilies.

I would recommend a simple amateur to be very careful in their choice, as not all varieties perform well in our climate-based zone (northern region and central Russia). For example, teeth and tentacles on the edge of the petals, from which you were completely delighted, looking at photos of American hybridizers, do not appear in your garden even on the 3-4th year of flowering. The same thing happens with kaleidoscopes and patterned varieties.

The reason, as I wrote earlier, is the lack of heat and sun, a short summer. What to do if you really want? Plant the plants on the sunniest place and try to achieve the flow of the forces necessary for the full flowering into the plant itself with the help of additional dressings, and it is better to get detailed advice from a self-respecting collector (who sells this sort) on his personal observations before buying.

What do you want to say in conclusion? Daylily is a very grateful flower, if you give it a little of your precious time and properly care for it.

Plant for a busy grower

Unpretentiousness and ease of care is our daylily. Growing and good without transplants and rejuvenation, the daylily can grow perfectly up to 10 years. The division of the bush stimulates the growth and lush flowering of the daylily and is the simplest way of its reproduction.

You can plant and transplant a daylily at any time, except for the flowering period and very hot weather. It is better to do this in the first decade of May or at the end of August - the beginning of September.

Divide slowly

Every 5-7 years day lily they dig, shake or wash the soil from the roots. For several hours old and large bushes are left in the shade, so that the roots slightly dry up and are not so fragile, and then they are cleared from the ground. Daylily roots are strongly intertwined, and sometimes hasty or inexperienced growers divide daylilies with a knife, which injures the plant and leads to the loss of part of the planting material.

Be patient and gently unravel and divide the roots into delenki so that each has a part of the rhizome with a bud or a fan of leaves, cut to 20 cm. The roots are shortened by a third. A daylily delenka is planted so that the root neck is not more than 2-3 cm deep.

Sometimes daylily bushes happen! "Loose". In this case, you can divide, not digging the plant completely Spade separate part of the bush, cutting the roots.

Planting a daylily

It will be a big mistake if you choose a damp place for planting daylilies. This plant has a strong root system and is drought resistant. Excess moisture damages the flower. That is why watering is resorted to only in the most extreme cases, when dry weather is standing for a long time. It is enough to moisten the soil under the plant copiously once (this should be done in the evening) and no longer care about how the flower will endure drought and heat.

Daylily prefers well-treated, loamy, slightly acidic soils with deep groundwater. Planted at a distance of at least 70 cm from each other. The landing pit should be in diameter greater than the volume of the root system. If required, drainage is poured at the bottom of the pit: gravel, expanded clay, broken bricks. It is advisable to add humus and most of the pit filled with soil mixture of compost, peat, sand and garden soil.

In the future, during the growing season it is enough to hold only two supplements. The first - complex mineral fertilizers in the spring, when the daylily wakes up and begins to release the leaves. Dry granules need to be scattered between the bushes (handful for each), mix with the ground with a rake and pour well. The second feeding time begins in August, a month after flowering. At this time, the plants are at rest, laying flower buds for the next season. For this purpose, we recommend the use of water-soluble fertilizer "Fertika Lux", which stimulates the formation of buds. After making his daylily should be well watered.

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - with your own hands"

Daylily division - master class and photo: How daylilies propagate by division In flowers ... Red daylily varieties (photo): Red daylilies - a selection of varieties I think ... Daylilies (photos) - description of care: Growing daylilies for beginners: ... Daylily planting and care ( from the Encyclopedia of Flowers): Growing a daylily and caring for ... Daylilies - varieties, cultivation and care - a few tips: It cost me one time ... Flowers along the path (photo) - which ones to plant ?: Path of flowers in the cottage over the summer: Kolo Ring can be made to bloom twice ...

Sign up for updates in our groups.

Let's be friends!

Hello, dear readers and admirers of my blog! Looking at me, many of my friends became infected with a flower disease, and now, on the weekends, instead of fishing, we are going to a nursery for seedlings or a store for flower seeds instead of fishing. Since I have more experience, since I have not been involved in floriculture for the first year, they turn to me with all the problems and questions. Not so long ago, we had to discuss whether planting daylilies is possible in the fall. Are you also not the first year interested in such a controversial issue? Do not worry, I, as usual, come to the rescue.

A native of Central Asia, the beauties of the daylily gained popularity only a few hundred years ago, although it is familiar to people for a longer time. In our country, it is better known as the beauty of the day, which means - painting one day. Breeders have developed many new varieties, but the daylily blooming in the wild is picturesque and beautiful, almost the same as cultural species. Daylily bloom quite long - up to a month.

I will describe to you briefly a few orts, but keep in mind that this is only a small part of the amazing exotic:

Double Red Royal (velvet dark red flowers, several dozen peduncles on one plant);
Helix (yellow-green center, crimson petals);
Free Healing (red center with golden petals);
Stela to Oro (dark yellow flowers, flowering continues throughout the summer);
Apple Spring (fragrant pink flowers with a greenish-yellow fringe at the edges);
Granny Smith (creamy white flowers with a green border);
Apple Blossom White (white flowers with a double yellow border).

I also want to disappoint you a little - if you dream of a snow-white daylily, you will have to wait, because breeders are trying to bring such varieties, but to no avail.

Conditions for growing daylilies

When planting each plant, we usually select the optimal landing site. What will your daylily need? If at home they grow remarkably in a small shade, then in the middle zone of our country the sun will not be enough for a handsome man, which will affect flowering and growth. Do not be wise, and planted the bushes in the bright sun.

Preparing the soil for daylily does not give you trouble, but if it feels great even on poor soils, bring pleasure to the plant and pamper it with a simple mixture of sand, compost and clay. Do not forget about a good drainage layer, especially if the groundwater is close to the surface.

Want to know among which plants your daylilies can show all their decorative? Hortensia or low viburnum will be able to emphasize a bright palette of colors of flowers, and if you plant bushes near small decorative ponds, you will get a miniature piece of living wildlife near the house. From daylilies you get a picturesque border, even if you pick up bushes with the same flowering.

After flowering, daylily leaves begin to dry and turn yellow, which does not add originality to your flower garden. Take care in advance that other plants partially cover dry shoots with their flowering.

All landing rules

Most flower growers will go to plant daylilies in the spring, but in the fall you will not spoil the planting material if you listen to my advice. The first thing I want to tell you in confidence is that the plant takes root for at least a month, consider this without fail before planting. If you arrive late, the daylily will not have time to settle down and take new roots before the frost, and will die in the first days of winter.

If you live in the suburbs, then calmly plant a plant and wait for the cold, but what about those who have early and severe winters? I will advise you to purchase a daylily with early flowering periods, then it will have time to stock up with substances necessary for hibernation before the frost, and every year will delight you with amazing bright flowering. Protect your pet and a layer of mulch - humus or peat, put immediately after planting.

Before planting, you must inspect the roots and remove too long or dead. A little trick - soak them for a few hours in cool or warm water, they swell slightly, and it will be easier for you to find dried or rotted roots.

In a garden or a flower garden, prepare pits for bushes at a great distance from each other, because with time a daylily will grow up to a meter in diameter. In addition to the prepared soil, add a little wood ash and superphosphate to each well. Then do everything as usual - fill in a small hill, comfortably place the roots on it and sprinkle with soil.

The root collar should certainly be recessed into the ground by 2-4 cm, but no more, otherwise you risk losing the plant. Be sure to complete the landing with generous watering. If the soil is heavily subsided, sprinkle a little dry soil. In a rainy autumn, try not to overflow the planted bushes, a large amount of moisture and cool weather can cause roots to rot.

How to care for daylily

You already know when and how to plant wonderful bushes, now I want to introduce simple rules of care. Watering plays an important role in the flowering and growth of the daylily - if you overdo it, you risk killing the plant. Only in strong heat arrange water treatment plant, watering at the very root. If you put the mulch, then sometimes it is enough that the bushes lasted until the rain.

How to feed daylilies? I usually use Kemira-Luxe, the bushes respond well to this fertilizer. Top dressing for the season is only two - one immediately after the beginning of the growth of the leaves, the second - after the completion of flowering. If most plants like liquid feedings, then with daylilies the situation is a little different. Sprinkle undissolved granules of fertilizer, thoroughly rake the ground, and then pour it abundantly. The process is simple, I'm sure you can handle it perfectly.

Removing weed plants and frequent loosening of the soil is a problem for ever-busy gardeners, so I advise you to lay mulch. Pour a layer of coarse sand in the center of the daylily, but it is better to spread humus or compost between bushes. If the soil on your site is fat and nutritious, you can use pine needles or sawdust as a mulch (a layer of 7-9 cm).

Enemies daylilies

Diseases or pests are rare in daylilies, but unpleasant incidents occur. The worst enemy is the mosquito. In itself, an adult insect will not be able to cause harm, but numerous larvae love to eat delicious juice of buds, after which you will not wait for full bloom. Try to completely remove the damaged flowers, and sprinkle the bushes with fresh wood ash.

Often your pets become a tasty piece for thrips. Fight against them is merciless - remove infected plants and immediately burn. It will help prevention of insecticides and deep digging before the frost, most pests will die from the cold.

Often on daylilies you can find slugs, enemies of every summer resident. Collect them with your hands every morning and evening, without depriving you of the flowers and bushes growing nearby.

From daylily diseases, root rot, rust, or fusarium can be observed. If in the spring the plant stubbornly refuses to grow, and the leaves dry and turn yellow, then you can be sure that this is root rot. Carefully remove the shrub from the soil, remove all affected areas and process with fungicide. Daylily can be planted only after several days, after a good drying. Be sure to change the place, returning to the former only after 3 years.

If you are an avid florist, then you know firsthand fusarium. Yellowed daylily leaves and turned into dust leaves indicate that the disease is not deprived of attention and this plant. In time, the observed disease will recede after spraying fungicides, but if the infection has spread throughout the bush, you will have to dig it up and burn it.

Fungicides will protect the daylilies from rust. Do prophylactic treatment in the spring, and throughout the season the diseases will not cause you concern.

Pre-winter preparation

Daylilies that were planted in the fall require cover, even if all planting dates are followed and the bushes are well rooted. Use spruce branches, sawdust, dry leaves. Before you engage in covering, cut the stems, leaving high (up to 20 cm) penechki.

When preparing plants for winter sleep, be sure to consider the type of daylily you grow. Since there are evergreen varieties, when buying them, consultants may be advised to go without a cover. I would advise such varieties to also insulate for the winter, because a small amount of snow and severe frosts will surely damage the roots that are not strong after planting.

In the spring with daylilies, try to remove the shelter along with the departure of snow. Bushes wake up early and immediately grow, and under a warm layer of sawdust or spruce branches they can suffocate or dry out.

As you can see, it makes no difference when you went to plant your precious and long-awaited bushes, they will grow in the same way, even if they settled in your flower garden in the fall. Take into account my advice, watch a fascinating video, and I am sure that you will not make mistakes either during landing or in care. Share with your friends useful material on social networks, make them a pleasant surprise. Be sure to subscribe to the news of my blog, ahead of you will find a lot of interesting and facilitating the hard work in the country. I say goodbye for a while, all the best to you! See you again!

It is difficult to find a summer cottage on which there is no daylily - these flowers have gained immense popularity among gardeners of all times due to their unpretentiousness. However, even they need, albeit minimal, but proper care in the fall and preparation for winter.

Features care and preparation for winter - general tips and tricks

Watering. The root system of daylilies is deep and branched, and the processes of the rhizomes are able to accumulate water in their pulp. Due to these features, the plant is not very demanding on moisture. Watering daylilies is necessary only if the amount of precipitation is not enough for a good soil moisture.

Watering is performed in cloudy weather, in the morning or evening hours with slightly warm water at the root. It is believed that watering daylilies by sprinkling is undesirable: light green leaves are covered with spots. To water a single flower, you need to take so much water so that the soil is wet at a depth of 20-30 cm.

Top dressing. It is best to feed the daylilies in autumn in September organic fertilizer or fertilizer with high content of phosphorus and potassium. They help to strengthen the plant before wintering and improve its resistance to many diseases. Particularly needed fertilizing phosphate fertilizers recently divided or planted plants: the chemical element promotes the active growth of rhizomes, and the flower takes root faster in a new place.

Mullein, bird droppings, horse manure in small quantities contribute under a bush and dig. Solutions based on organic materials are poured into the groove made along the perimeter of the root system. In the fall, daylilies feed at the root with mineral fertilizers, in doses indicated by the manufacturer.

Organics and purchased supplements can be replaced with wood ash, which contains about 30 essential macro-and micronutrients.

Important! After making the feeding daylilies need to pour abundantly.

Mulching. Daylily varieties that do not have high frost resistance after minus temperatures have been established are covered with mulch materials: peat, sawdust, straw, spruce leaves, and leaves. Please note, the base of the bush can not be covered with heavy materials.

Crop. Despite the fact that the foliage feeds the roots in winter, timely cutting will help protect the plant from the appearance of rot, which can spread to the root collar from the aerial part. During the garden manipulation it is very important to adhere to the established rules, since any deviation from them is fraught with loss of strength and death of the daylily. Autumn daylily pruning can not be done only in the southern regions, where the leaves before frost completely dry, because of what they do not rot and serve as additional shelter.

Shelter. If representatives of true daylily varieties in a continental winter can do well without shelter, then hybrids originating from the warm climate of South America rarely live to spring without a layer of insulation.

Pruning in the fall

For the first time having planted a bright flower on his plot, the florist makes every effort to save it until next spring. Not everyone knows, but pruning is one of the main stages of preparing daylilies for the winter.

Why prune daylilies in the fall

“Is it not harmful for cutting the leaves to the plant?” - this is the question that almost all beginning gardeners ask, picking up a shears. The answer is unequivocal: of course not.

Pruning daylilies in the fall is advisable for the following reasons:

Manipulation prevents foliage from rotting: the thick above-ground part under the influence of cold weather and precipitation quickly decays and blocks the access of air to the root neck, which is very bad for the plant.
Pruning leaves is an excellent prevention of diseases that have accumulated on the foliage during the season.
Pruning will help get rid of the main pest of daylilies and many garden plants. Along with the trimmed foliage, the slugs that hid under the foliage to hibernate are also destroyed.
A low stump in winter is covered with snow, and the plant suffers less from cold winds and frost.
Cropped aerial parts look much better than rotting leaves scattered by the wind.

Therefore, every gardener, who is not indifferent to the proportion of plants, must timely cut it before the cold.

When it is better to cut - in spring or autumn

According to the opinion of most flower growers who have been engaged in the cultivation and cultivation of daylilies for a long time, pruning is preferable to carry out in the fall, adhering to all the rules of manipulation. Properly done, autumn pruning is much safer than spring.

Many believe that in the winter nutrients from the aerial part of the leaves gradually transfer from the leaves to the root system. However, at the same time, this advantage is overlapped by a greater risk of rotting of the root collar and the death of the daylily.

Therefore, it is better to understand the technology of autumn pruning and implement it in practice, rather than guess whether the flower will spring in the spring or not.

When to cut daylilies in autumn

Cut daylilies should be on the eve of stable frosts or immediately after their establishment. Depending on the climate of the growing region, a suitable time for manipulation occurs in October-November.

Important! It is impossible to cut the daylilies before the specified time: too early cutting stimulates the plant to restore the aerial part. Also, before the cold can wake up the kidneys, which will die with the arrival of frost. And that, and another phenomenon causes great harm to the flower.

How to cut daylilies correctly - instruction and scheme

Just like many herbaceous plants, it is very easy to cut daylilies. There is only one manipulation scheme that has the following sequence:

Sharp shears cut all the leaves at a height of 10-15 cm.
For the prevention of disease and better blown plants trimmed foliage rake and carry out of the site. Together with the aboveground part of the daylily, slugs that are hidden for the winter are also destroyed.

Important! Leaving shorter hemp, it is possible to provoke a plant to resume growth of foliage.

Care after trimming

After shearing, the area is removed from organic waste, and then burned away from the area. No further care manipulations are carried out, including not feeding.

Shelter daylilies for the winter

Most of the perennial flowers need to cover for the winter, because the weather in recent years, often surprised by its variability. To protect your favorite plantings from possible winter moods and your nervous system from experiences about wintering, it is recommended to get acquainted in advance with the characteristics of the cultivated variety. Only after comparing the description and weather conditions of the region can one determine the feasibility and methods of sheltering daylilies.

Do I need to cover daylilies for the winter

Despite the fact that daylilies belong to plants with good winter hardiness, some of their varieties need to be sheltered for the winter, especially if the climate of the growing region abounds with fierce prolonged frosts and lack of heavy precipitation. Regardless of the variety, the daylilies that were planted this fall need to be covered, because they have not yet had time to get strong and adapt to environmental conditions and can freeze out.

How to cover daylilies for the winter

To protect daylilies from gusty winds and long frosts, it is enough to cover the plant with a layer of mulch 5-10 cm thick. Lapnik, straw, shredded pine bark, and dry leaves are used as insulation. Experienced gardeners caution against the shelter of flower beds with mowed grass: in most cases there are weeds among the grass that will fall into the soil and sprout together in the spring. Although this mulch will protect the flowers from the cold, at the same time, because of it, in the spring it will have to spend a lot of time weeding the flowering plantations.

Note! It is impossible to cover daylilies when warming is still possible: under the influence of positive temperatures, plants can melt.

What are the features of daylily preparation for winter in the regions?

For successful wintering of daylilies, it is necessary to correctly determine the thickness of the shelter that will protect the flowers from freezing in the conditions of the growing region.

In the middle lane

Shelter daylilies in the suburbs practically does not differ from the usual scheme of preparing plants for winter.

In the Volga region

In the region, bright flowers are covered with a thicker layer of mulch. To protect the plants from freezing, on top of the bushes the mulching material is laid with a layer of 8-10 cm. It is known that snow is the best insulation, therefore during the winter it is necessary to monitor the amount of snow above the flower garden: in case of a decrease in the thickness of the snow cover, it is replenished from the central parts of the garden .

In the Urals and in Siberia

These regions are characterized by long-lasting low temperatures, from which even winter-resistant daylily species can suffer. In order to preserve the flower for sure, the plant is carefully dug out and put into the basement or cellar. After the arrival of spring daylilies again planted on the site.

Typical mistakes in daylily care for autumn and winter preparations

During the cultivation of any plant errors are possible. After reviewing the most common misconceptions, you can avoid them during the preparatory work on your site.

So, the main mistakes in the care and preparation of daylily for winter are:

The above-ground part of the plant is cut flush with the ground or the stump is left too short.
Do not comply with the timing of pruning and shelter. In the first case, the plant begins to grow actively, which takes a lot of energy before winter, in the second - the daylily vyvaet.
The flower is fed with fertilizers with a large amount of nitrogen, because of which the plant begins to grow and weakens.

In order to preserve spring plantings of bright daylilies, you need to take very little care for perennials. Of course, you can let things go on their own and not take care of the flowers at all, but they will bloom and look painful. Therefore, if the view of the garden is really important for the owner, he must necessarily prepare daylilies for the winter.

In contact with