Spathiphyllum is a genus of plants belonging to the family of Aroids. Its number fluctuates around 40 species. Homeland spathiphyllum are tropical areas of South America.

Of these plants are perennials that do not have a stem. Leaf plates grow directly from the rhizome. Blossoming is represented by a cob, which is placed on the peduncle and covered with a leaf-spathe. In the people for this flower there is the name "female happiness" or "flower of love." This is a poisonous plant, contact with which can cause irritation and allergies.


Types and varieties

  - has oblong leaves high to half a meter, placed on long petioles, the width of the leaf plate is up to 25 cm. The color of the flower changes from white to almost black. Bract is about 15 cm long and 10 cm wide.

  - has an oval-shaped leaves and a greenish flower and bract.

  - lanceolate leaves reach 40 cm, wavy. Scapes that keep leaves more than 50 cm. The flower is a white ear, which is decorated with a bract.

  - this flower reaches 50 cm tall, the leaves a little more than 20 cm. The bract, covering the ear, white color.

  - the difference of this species in the elongated leaves with a curved tip. Bract bract white-green.

  - The leaves of this species are lanceolate, the cob is white, the coverlet, the color of which changes from white to green, is greater than the cob. Great for indoor growing. On the basis of this species, the domino spathiphyllum is deduced, which differs from the parent by the motley leaves.

This is one of the variegated varieties. Some parts of the bract and leaves of this flower are devoid of chlorophyll and therefore have a white color.

  - a high variety with long and wide leaves, which is great for growing in rooms with poor lighting.

Among the other varieties can be distinguished spathiphyllum alana , chopin , cupido , verdi , suite silvio . But in general, there are many more different varieties of this plant.

Spathiphyllum home care

Caring for indoor spathiphyllum involves the implementation of certain rules. In terms of lighting, he needs diffused light, because in this way it will grow larger, and flowering will be longer.

During the spring-summer period, the temperature should be 22 ° C. And in the fall and in the winter time not lower than 16 ° C. If the degree falls below 10 ° C, the plant will die. Drafts are also very destructive.

How to water spathiphyllum

Watering should be carried out all year round defended water. During active growth and in general during the warm months, watering should be abundant. It needs to be done two or three times a week, even without waiting for the top soil ball to completely dry, as part of the rhizome dies when the earth dries. It is necessary to water carefully so that the water is poured only on the soil.

When growing in a room for spathiphyllum, spraying should be carried out, and the plant pot should be placed in a container with raw claydite. Spraying should be done at least twice a day, otherwise the leaves will dry. In winter, watering is limited to once every seven days.

Spathiphyllum fertilizer

From March to September, the Spathiphyllum requires mineral fertilizer fertilization. Bred fertilizer is very weak - 1 g / 1 l of water. Before and after fertilizer, you need to water the flower well.

Feeding should be regular - once for 15 days. In winter, if the plant does not bloom, it is also fertilized about once every 5 weeks. During the flowering period to conduct fertilizer is not recommended. Also, this procedure is not performed for young plants and after transplantation. For better flowering, choose top dressing with a large amount of potassium and phosphorus.

Spathiphyllum transplant and soil composition

Spathiphyllum transplantation at home is carried out in the spring, if the rhizome has grown on the entire pot. The roots of the flower are rather fragile, therefore it is advised to use transshipment, removing only a small part of the ground from the roots. If the rhizome is rotted, then it must be cleaned.

The composition of the soil for spathiphyllum includes peat, humus, river sand, and a mixture of leafy soil with turf (the same amount of each component). But you can buy ready-made primer for aoids in a specialty store.

Pot size take a bit more past. Drainage is required. During rooting, the plant is watered a little less, you can also cover the flower with polyethylene and air it a couple of times a day.

After purchase, transplantation is required if the container with the flower is too small, but on the whole, the spathiphyllum purchased and so feel good.

Pruning spathiphyllum

After flowering, the peduncle should be trimmed so that it no longer sucks out the nutrients, pruning should be carried out as close as possible to the rhizome. You also need to cut off the dry and diseased leaves of the plant, and the slices are powdered with crushed coal.

How to propagate spathiphyllum at home

Cutting is carried out in spring or summer. To do this, cut off a sheet rosette and placed in water or put in wet sand before rooting. If the roots are already formed, then you can immediately carry out planting in the soil. Leaf cutting can not be propagated.

Spathiphyllum reproduction by dividing the bush

Dividing the bush is the easiest way of spathiphyllum breeding. This plant quickly forms many young rosettes and because of this, it is necessary not only to replant it every year, but also to divide the bush. Parts of the plant are already independent spathiphyllums and can be planted immediately into the soil.

It is necessary to carry out the division procedure before the stage of increasing the green mass, that is, in the spring. On the separated part of the bush should be at least three strong leaf rosettes and part of a healthy rhizome. To deepen delenki need to the same depth, so that was in the old pot.

Capacities for planting young plants need to pick up small, otherwise the roots will take all the power to grow. Before the beginning of the division, feed the roots with water, wash them and unravel them. After that, they are cleaned, powdered cuts with coal and after that they are already divided.

Diseases and pests

  • If your spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow then you should check if you follow all the rules of care. For example, a plant will begin to turn yellow if it is rarely watered or the humidity in the room is too low. Also, yellowing may occur due to the aphid that feeds on its juice. Carefully examine the plant for the presence of this pest.
  • But the most frequent destroyer of spathiphyllum is the spider mite. . If it is detected, take immediate action.
  • With insufficient humidity is observed drying and twisting the tips of the leaves . Also the leaves curl if the flower is cold.
  • When too bright light the leaves of the plant begin to fade. . Move the pot to another place, and cut the bright leaves, otherwise this process may become irreversible.
  • The leaves turn black if the root is sick . Most often this happens if the spathiphyllum suffers from an excess of moisture. If this is the case, then immediately transplant and clean the rhizome. But also the cause of blackness on the leaves is unbalanced fertilizer. If you overdo it with podkrmki and after that black spots appeared, then transplantation is not required.
  • Spathiphyllum will not bloom if the amount of fertilizer was excessive. Also, flowers usually do not appear when the roots fill the entire pot capacity.
  • In all species of spathiphyllum, the bract is slightly greenish. But if the flowers began to turn green excessively, then this indicates an error in the care . A possible reason is a decrease in temperature to 15 ° C and below. Also greening begins with a lack of lighting. Green flowers are pruned, but they must be left alone.

Houseplants decorate our home, create a feeling of coziness and comfort. They, like any living particle of the globe, are filled with life, therefore they require attention, care, and careful attitude. There are a lot of them, but each at the same time remains unique and inimitable, this is their charm. In this article we will talk about such a flower as a spathiphyllum or as people like to call it “female happiness”.

There is a belief that this plant can bring happiness. They say that if it blooms in the house where a single girl lives, then she will certainly meet her half. Well, in a house with an established family will bring strength, peace and reliability.

Spathiphyllum is a tropical plant, is evergreen. In total, there are 45 types, common room is charged 6 types: spoon-shaped, domino, wallis, blooming, adorable, sensation. The flower is beautiful in itself, it will easily complement any interior. It blooms only a few times a year, and only under the conditions of proper care. I will reveal everything you need to know and adhere to for normal growth and development of the plant.

Flower female happiness: care

Spathiphyllum does not require extra attention. It is enough to water and spray the plant in time, besides, the flower is very clever, he himself makes it clear when he needs water, dropping his leaves down.

In the summer, you need to water it often, about a day, in the winter - several times a week. Vodichku recommend using filtered or separated.

Because the plant is tropical, it loves heat. But here it is important to determine the correct heat and light conditions, the ideal temperature will be 18-25 degrees. The sun's rays are detrimental, the leaves become dry and wither, and if the leaves on the contrary are pulled up, but do not bloom, more light is needed. With a lack of light foliage will become a pale color. It is desirable to spray every day, but at the same time, make sure that the water did not get on the flowers! You can also clean it with a damp cloth from dust and other external contamination.

The flower propagates very simply: the usual division of the bush and root system. Flower growers use the method for reproduction - pieces of the root, but beginners will not cope with this, as they can damage the main plant, dividing the maternal root incorrectly. Leaf can not multiply!

The best time for breeding and replanting is spring. First you need to prepare the soil: turf ground (2 parts), peat (1 part), humus (1 part) and sand (1 part). Be sure to be good drainage at the bottom of the pot.

How to transplant a flower female happiness

Spathiphyllum transplantation occurs once a year, in the spring, but if you just bought a plant, it needs an urgent transplant. In stores, as a rule, it is sold in plastic containers for easy transportation, but it cannot grow and multiply under these conditions.

So, we begin flower transplanting with the purchase of a new pot. It should be slightly larger than the previous diameter. Make sure that the temperature of the room is not lower than 20 degrees. To make it easier to remove the plant from the pot - pour it about an hour before transplanting. Put the pot on the flank and gently tapping the root system from it, for ease, you can use a metal spatula or a knife, but you can act very carefully. Carefully remove the rotten particles from the roots and shorten too long. If you want to propagate, then separate the parts of the roots together with the leaves.

Prepare the pot beforehand: close the drain hole with small particles of bricks (broken), expanded clay or shards, then lay the substrate (prepared in advance) and sprinkle with a thin layer of soil on top. We fix a flower in a pot, pouring at the same time the next portions of the earth, so that it fits snugly to the walls. We stamp the ground with our fingers until it is level with the leaves.

At the end of the procedure, pour plenty of stapiphyllum and remove it in a dark place for 7 days, but spray the leaves daily. After a week, we return the flower to the familiar, light part of the house.

Attention! The flower in the flowering process can not be transplanted!

Spathiphyllum disease and treatment

The main cause of the disease of this plant are pests: mealy buckworm, spider mite, aphid, black fungus, scythe.

Mealybug

Appears at an increased level of moisture and hides between the leaves, so periodically inspect the flower. If you detect a small number of insects, you can get rid of them by wiping the leaves with an alcohol solution or an infusion of citrus peels.

Spider mite

The greatest threat to spathiphyllum. The pest appears on the foliage, covers it with cobwebs. As a result, the plant gradually dries out. For treatment, it is enough to remove the web by treating the leaves with a concentrated solution of soap. In more serious cases, means will be needed: insecticides, ground sulfur.

Aphid

Aphid arises on the lower part of the foliage and feeds on the juice of “female happiness”. If the plant is not treated, the leaves curl and dry. Treatment: 1 gram of nicotine sulfate per 1 liter of water and spray the affected parts abundantly.

Black mushroom

Manifested in blackening the upper part of the leaves. It is necessary to eliminate the disease quickly, because it blocks the breath of the plant, which leads to its death. Treatment: frequent treatment with soapy water.

Shchitovka

Shield aphid (shchitovka) - dark spots on the leaves and stems. At the initial stage of the disease is invisible. It is treated by spraying the plant with a tobacco-soap solution mixed with kerosene or alcohol in a small amount.

Disease prevention is the frequent “bathing” of the plant with a wet sponge. But the cause is not always pests! Indicators that the plant is sick:

  1. Bad growing. Most likely the light mode does not correspond to the norm or the humidity of the room and the area near the flower is disturbed. It is enough just to rearrange it to a more appropriate place;
  2. Dried leaf tips, spots. Non-hazardous spots of yellow-brown shade, it can be a natural overflow of a plant;
  3. Blacken flowers. The reason is excessive fertilizer or wet soil. Treatment: spray the soil with a solution of foundationol 2 grams per 1 liter of water;
  4. Yellow leaves. The reason is simple, either the plant is in contact with direct sunlight, or too much water is used when watering;
  5. Deformed leaves. Curved, elongated, narrow - the reason for the lack of light. Dark places are contraindicated;
  6. No bloom. Causes: lack of nutrition, insufficient moisture, the need for transplantation.

Spathiphyllum does not bloom what to do

Female happiness blossoms only if it feels full sense of comfort. When it is comfortable, warm, all external factors meet the standards.

Why does not bloom:

  • the root system did not fill the pot, that is, the pot is too large;
  • room temperature above 25 degrees;
  • oversupply or lack of lighting;
  • draft;
  • soil is too wet;
  • the need for transplantation, separation of rhizomes;
  • dry room air;
  • lack of watering and spraying the plants;
  • pests and diseases.

Eliminating any of the above reasons, you give the plant the opportunity to normally exist, multiply and bloom.

As you understand, it is not difficult to care for women's happiness.

Follow the general rules of care, and the plant will not give you trouble, but on the contrary will please your eye with beautiful flowering and beauty.

How to propagate the flower of female happiness

The reproduction of this flower occurs in the process of transplanting, by dividing the bush, it is the most common method that we consider in more detail.

So, you decided to transplant the flower into a new pot, then at the same time you can split the spathiphyllum rhizome into several parts so that separate plants are formed. It is best to produce division in the spring, in a room with a temperature of at least 20 degrees. Consider the process itself, how to propagate the flower of female happiness.

As you know, the spathiphyllum stalk gives several points of growth, you need to separate all the rosettes between each other, but at the same time make sure that each bush has at least three sheets. Next, you need to plant spatiphyllums in small pots, with a diameter of 12-15 cm. As a soil, a special earthen mixture is used for aroid ones, which includes one part: leafy soil, peat, humus, sand. You can add pieces of bark or coal to the mixture. Another mixture for seating is also allowed, in two parts: humus, peat, sand, coniferous and leafy ground.

With information on how to propagate the flower of female happiness, the women's website shared about everything.

In addition to how to propagate the flower of female happiness, you should also know that this procedure is rather difficult to perceive by the plant itself. It is necessary to make division very carefully, since damage to the root system can lead to a flower to gradually wilt and, eventually, to death. Crossed delenki requires your special attention, now they need to gain strength for independent living, which means pamper them with abundant watering and frequent spraying.

Spathiphyllum care and reproduction.

Spathiphyllum is a perennial, herbaceous plant with dark green peaked leaves with a length from 15 to 30 cm (depending on the variety). Petioles are long, often exceeding the length of the leaf plate itself, and the hollowed veins give the leaf a folded appearance. Spathiphyllum flowers, like all members of the Aroid family, are collected in the cob inflorescence.

Spathiphyllum is popularly called the flagpole, and the more common name of the flower is FEMALE HAPPINESS.

Spathiphyllum care and reproduction.

Caring for the plant "female happiness" is quite simple, since the plant is not particularly demanding, it is easy to put up with a lack of light, although it will not bloom as intensely as on bright windows. It will be good to feel spathiphyllum on the north window. And the lack of lighting is evidenced, first of all, by the extention of petioles. Wonderful place for spathiphyllum solar orientation windows, but in the heat should always pritenyat because the plant does not like the heat.

The temperature all year round one - room. When raising it, you should monitor the condition of the earthy coma, it should not dry out in any case! Because the plant can simply die. The rest period of the spathiphyllum is not clearly pronounced, so the temperature should not be lowered. But women's happiness is not reconciled, both with heat, and with cold and drafts.

When overflowing in combination with low temperature leaves become covered with brown spots, and with dry air they turn yellow and then the tips of the leaves turn black (especially during the heating season). And if you also dry the earthen room, the plant loses its turgor, and it is difficult to restore it. It is often desirable to spray the plant, and once a week to arrange a warm shower.

Spathiphyllum reproduces by dividing the bush. As a rule, a healthy plant is a fairly large colony, and the division is easy, no roots are damaged, no leaves, the plant takes root without any problems. Therefore, I believe the care and reproduction of spathiphyllum directly depend on one.

Feed better fertilizer for ornamental plants, during the period of active growth of green mass - nitrogen, and with the beginning of flowering to increase the dose of phosphate and potash fertilizers. This will help extend the flowering and hold the overall decorative look.

It is better to transplant female happiness in spring, in small and not deep bowls, as the plant will bloom better and more abundantly in a close pot or bowl. If the diameter of the pot is 18–20 cm, then it is not advisable to replace it every year, but only regularly update the upper layer. The soil should be loose and light. It can be made from humus, leaf soil, sand and peat. It is advisable to add pieces of charcoal and broken bricks. At the bottom of the drainage necessarily (2-3cm). Or buy ready-mixed soil. That's the whole secret about the care and reproduction of spathiphyllum.

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Royal flagist or spathiphyllum - features of care for women's happiness

Spathiphyllum or "female happiness" comes from the humid South American tropics - this is a real decoration of the home greenhouse, aristocratic and unusual. There is a belief that such a flower is able to revive lost romance in family relationships or to help meet your soul mate. Whether this is so is verified only by experience - which means you will need to care for the plant in order for it to retain its beauty for a long time.

Variety of spathiphyllum

Spathiphyllum flower can be of several types:

  • cannular leaf;
  • floriferous;
  • Wallace (the most common form, a fairly large plant, a snow-white flower bedspread).

There are also hybrid plants obtained in greenhouse conditions - they are larger than natural ones and bloom for a very long time.

Mozart, Variegata and Mauna Loa stand out among the hybrids that can be easily bought in flower shops. Such plants differ in leaf size and color.

The nuances of care for a tropical aristocrat

Caring for a spathiphyllum at home may seem difficult - but only until you understand the language of this plant (the flower will signal a change in its appearance in each of its “discontent”).

But it is possible and necessary to warn the moment when the female flower begins to ache and wither. Basic guidelines for care spathiphyllum:

  1. The plant is light-requiring, but in the conditions of the penumbra and shadow it will grow superbly. You should not place it under direct sunlight, the best choice is the north side. From the excess of light will suffer - the leaves will become pale, lose their color.
  2. Warmth is very important. Its ideal temperature is 18-23 ° C.
  3. Draft unacceptable - cold air has a negative effect on the plant.
  4. Since the indoor spathiphyllum is from the tropics, it is very sensitive to moisture. During the flowering period (spring and summer), abundant watering is obligatory, and in winter, the soil in the pot is moistened moderately. The flower responds with gratitude to spraying and generally cannot grow normally in low humidity conditions, and therefore it is imperative that the device be covered with wet moss or sand. Moderately dry air is allowed only in winter, during the period of rest.
  5. Period of regular fertilizing plants - autumn and spring. Fertilizer in these seasons should be weekly, using flowering for flowering. In winter, top dressing is unacceptable because they will bring the flower out of “hibernation”.
  6. When the flowers begin to dry, they must be removed - this will preserve the decorativeness of the plant and allow it to form new inflorescences.

Transplantation and reproduction

Spathiphyllum transplantation should be carried out every year and each time a large container will be required. For pochvosmes use:

  • turf;
  • leaf;
  • humus;
  • peat soil;
  • sand;
  • brick chips (charcoal).

Different types of soil are combined with sand in a proportion of 2: 2: 2: 2: 1.

Quality drainage is also important. Replant the plant should be careful not to damage the fragile roots. If, immediately after transplantation, the flower began to wilt, it should be watered abundantly 2-3 times a day.

In the process of transplantation can be carried out and reproduction of spathiphyllum. There is a method of rooting the upper cuttings, but it is time consuming and not applicable at home. But reproduction by division of the bush is possible - one large plant can be divided into several processes at once, trying to preserve as many roots as possible (at least 2.5 cm long) and at least 2-3 healthy leaves on each part. With each delenki, sluggish leaves are necessarily removed.

The division is recommended to be carried out at a temperature of 20 ° C, since small plants are very sensitive to temperature changes. For one delenki need a 15-centimeter pot. The substrate used is the same as for adult plants. To care for the handle should be the same as for the formed plant - in time to water, not to endure in the sun and often spray.

Questions for novice florists - possible problems with the plant

Spathiphyllum is very popular among gardeners, and all the questions you might have already have solutions:

  1. Why doesn't the plant bloom? The cause may be waterlogging, insufficient air humidity or lack of nutrients. If the leaves are green, and the flowers do not appear, then you need to wait until the root system grows to the whole pot.
  2. Why do the tips of the leaves turn black? It speaks about too abundant watering. This is evidenced by the formation of brown or yellow spots.
  3. Why do dry leaves come about? If you do not regularly spray the leaves, they will become dry. This may lead to a lack of nutrients in the soil - nitrogen and phosphorus. Leaves that dry, be sure to cut.
  4. Why do leaves curl and lose color? In this way, the plant signals an excess of light or pest damage.

Many plant diseases are caused by pests that often settle on a flower that grows in conditions of excessive moisture. There are only a few major pests:

  • shield aphid sucking sap from a plant — when it settles on a flower, dark spots appear on it;
  • spider mite - that he chose your flower as home is indicated by a thin web between the leaves.

You can save the spathiphyllum if you spray it with ready-made insecticides in time, process it with ground sulfur or tobacco extract.

If you begin to carefully monitor your green pet, he will soon give you an extraordinary abundant flowering, and maybe he will really attract "female happiness" to the house.

Flower grower reviews

Maria Rudnitskaya, pensioner:

“Spathiphyllum is my gift from my son.

I had to tinker with him fairly (the leaves often dried out), although I already got a plant that had already formed. Pritenyu it from the sun and watering with settled water. Only this year the handsome bloomed. It blooms unusually, but unfortunately it does not smell. ”

Stanislav Pechersk, economist:

“The girlish happiness, the flagist, the spathiphyllum is my blue dream that is about to come true. I saw a luxurious bush of this plant in one interior magazine and was impressed. Now here I try to grow the same copy. The secret of care is simple - no sunshine and frequent spraying. Already the third summer my aristocrat pleases with numerous white veils. ”

Daria Lukashina, nurse:

“For me, the spathiphyllum remained an incomprehensible mystery. Happy in marriage - means, must grow by leaps and bounds? In my case, the legend of “female happiness” did not work and the spathiphyllum withered. A friend gave a new one, prompting that in winter the plant had a period of rest, but it still does not cancel watering. We will try again. ”

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Spathiphyllum breeding

Reproduction spathiphyllum (cuttings, seeds, division of the bush).

Spathiphyllum - flowering indoor plant, known and loved by many gardeners. Possessing various indisputable advantages, in particular, a very attractive appearance, unpretentiousness, the ability to purify the air of city apartments from formaldehyde and phenol vapors, it is also famous for its ease of reproduction. If your acquaintances have an adult spathiphyllum, then it is not difficult to get a young copy from the mother plant. There are three options for how to do this.

  Dividing bush

This is the easiest and most convenient way, and useful for the mother plant. Spathiphyllum grows very quickly, forming many young rosettes. After a couple of years, he is able to occupy the entire surface of the pot, creating thick thickets and draining the soil. Therefore, it requires not only the annual transplant, but also the periodic division of the bush. Delenki, obtained as a result of this procedure, are already ready young plants that do not require additional growing or any special procedures. All that is required is to plant them in a separate pot.

- divide the bush preferably before the beginning of the active growing season, in the spring; - Delenka should contain at least three well-developed sheet rosettes and have a strong and intact root system; - when planting to a new place, it is impossible to deepen the basal neck, the ground level should be the same as in the original bush;

- for growing spathiphyllum, you should choose small pots, otherwise the plant will begin to actively develop the root system and increase the green mass to the detriment of flowering.

In order for the division of the root system to be injured as little as possible, you can use the following method. Before removing a plant from a pot, it must be thoroughly shed so that the root system is saturated with moisture and becomes less brittle. It is better not to cut the clod of the earth “blindly”, but to soak and dilute gently, freeing and unraveling the roots. Then it will be possible to see and evaluate those parts into which the bush should be divided. It is desirable to free each ready-made part from old rotted or dried roots and leaves, sprinkle wounds with pounded charcoal, give them time to dry a little and then plant in a new pot, straightening the roots, gradually sprinkling them with earth and compacting the soil.

Ready-made specialized ones are quite suitable as substrates, but those who want to please their pet can prepare the soil mixture on their own by taking one part of peat, sheet and sod land and adding half the proportion of coarse-grained river sand.

  Cuttings

As the cuttings use leaf sockets, cut from the mother bush in the spring or summer season. If they already have a small root system, young plants can immediately be planted in the ground. Otherwise, simple measures will be required to promote the rapid development and growth of the roots. The simplest thing is to wait for the root formation by placing the rosette-cutting in a glass of water, where it is desirable to add half a tablet of activated charcoal, otherwise the base of the stem will quickly become covered with mucus and begin to rot.

The process of rooting in a tank with water is the simplest, but, as practice shows, it is faster and more reliable in special substrates. As the latter, you can use coarse river sand or perlite. In addition, peat moss and sphagnum moss, moistened and tightly tamped around the cutting, have proven themselves to be good. To speed up the process, around the sheet rosette maintain high humidity, covering it with a transparent cap or placing a pot with a plant in a mini-hothouse.

Separately, we note that the spathiphyllum does not reproduce with leaf cuttings, even if the stalk from the stem is cut off with a “heel”.

  Seed propagation

Seed propagation of spathiphyllum can be done by those who are interested in the process itself, since growing this plant from seed is a very difficult and time-consuming exercise. One of the main problems of this method of reproduction is the rapid loss of germination. That is, the seeds collected from the plant, it is desirable to immediately sow. And for this you should first pollinate blooming spathiphyllum and wait for the seeds to ripen. Neither the first nor the second can be called a simple matter, so it is easier to look for seeds in flower shops.

When buying seeds, you must check their shelf life. As already mentioned, only fresh seeds germinate in the spathiphyllum, and even at the very beginning the germination rate does not exceed half.

Sow the seeds in a flatbed with a wet substrate consisting of a mixture of sand and peat, and put it in a mini-greenhouse with a small (up to 24 ° C) heated.

  Caution!

When working with Spathiphyllum, especially when pruning and dividing the rhizome, you must remember that it belongs to poisonous plants and its juice can cause various allergic reactions. Therefore, it is impossible to prevent the plant juice from getting on the mucous membrane, and after working with it you need to thoroughly wash your hands.

Spathiphyllum - female happiness in your home!

In nature, spathiphyllum grows in South America, Polynesia and East Asia. This evergreen perennial plant lives in marshlands, along lakes, rivers and streams. The people Spathiphyllum is called women's happiness. It is believed that this indoor flower brings its owner good luck and family peace. It is not recommended to give your personal spathiphyllum to someone, because this is how you give into the wrong hands and your well-being.

But the flower spathiphyllum, specially bought as a gift, will help any woman to achieve what she most desires at the moment. For example, even an unmarried lady will help find her love, childless - to get pregnant and safely give birth to a healthy child. It is also noteworthy that with constant family scandals and lack of mutual understanding, the spathiphyllum cannot develop normally - it dies, and not having time to please its owner with a spectacular flowering.

Of course, just a calm atmosphere in the house is not enough for the normal growth of the plant. Spathiphyllum, like any home flower, requires a certain attention. And in this article we will tell you what kind of care a plant needs, how to properly transplant it and what the reproduction of this indoor flower represents. But first, let's look at the types of spathiphyllum, so that you can choose your flower.

Variety of spathiphyllums

Species of this plant are diverse. They differ in size, color of the bedspread (the so-called spathiphyllum flower) and the cob. All indoor varieties are hardy, bloom long and abundantly.

Flower with a short rhizome. In height reach 30-40 centimeters. The leaves of this variety are dark green, oblong, have an elegant form. The coverlet is white at the beginning of flowering and greenish at the end. The plant is shade-tolerant and does not need any special care;

  • Abundantly blooming spathiphyllum

Medium size (50-60 centimeters), has oval-shaped leaves. Peduncles large, buds are formed directly in the leaves, which provides abundant flowering almost all year round;

A large plant that does not bloom as abundantly as the two species described above. The veil of this variety of spathiphyllum has a greenish-white shade and resembles a flag.

Flowering lasts from April to June;

A large indoor flower that grows up to one meter in height. The leaves of this variety are oblong in shape, glossy texture, wavy at the edges. The cover of white color, has the form of a spoon;

Also a large plant whose leaves look like canna leaves. The cob is yellow, the coverlet is white-green with a pungent aroma.

The room spathiphyllum has one more name - the white sail. It appeared due to the shape of its inflorescences. Cut flowers of any kind of spathiphyllum are able to maintain their freshness for about a month, so they are often used by florists to create holiday bouquets.

Care features

All types of this plant are not too picky, so care for them will not bring you any special problems. Spathiphyllum loves shaded places - bright sunlight is contraindicated. However, this does not mean that the flower must always be kept in the dark.

If you notice that the leaves of the plant stretched out and acquired a dark color - it is not enough lighting. Pamper your spathiphyllum with sunbathing or arrange artificial light with fluorescent lamps. By the way, when artificial light flower grows faster and more often throws buds.

Cold air and draft are destructive for this tropical beauty. Therefore, in the winter, pay attention to organizing the desired temperature in the room. 23-25 ​​degrees of heat - these are the optimal conditions for growing spathiphyllum. Top dressing is made in the period of growth and flowering, once a week. Before using fertilizer, carefully read the instructions and act strictly on it.

If the leaves of the plant wilted and wilted - it lacks moisture. Remember, the root system of the flower should always be wet. Therefore, it is necessary to water the spathiphyllum copiously - as the upper soil layer dries out. Once a week, arrange a flower water procedures in the form of a shower.

Wipe the leaves with a clean cloth to prevent dust from accumulating. If water remains in the pan after water procedures, do not rush to drain it, leave it for several hours. Wet environment is necessary for the plant both in winter and in summer. Therefore, with the onset of cold weather, you should not drastically change its content.

Reproduction and transplanting

Spathiphyllum breeding occurs either by dividing the bush (during transplantation) or by apical grafting. Before you start breeding (split adult plant), carefully unravel the roots, trying not to damage them. Then plant spathiphyllum in new smaller pots. To root the cuttings, it is necessary to create a greenhouse effect for them.

Planting a shoot in the ground, cover it with a glass container. When spathiphyllum will let young leaves, you can safely remove the greenhouse. Watering during rooting produce only in the pan. Caring for a young plant is no different from the content of an adult flower.

In order to transplant Spathiphyllum, it is necessary to prepare the soil. Mix in equal parts humus, leaf and sod land, peat and sand. In order for the substrate to have the required breathability, add small brick chips and pieces of charcoal. Before transplanting a spathiphyllum, place a drainage pot on the bottom, as which you can use expanded clay.

It is necessary to replant the spathiphyllum every year with the onset of spring. The size of the pot is selected based on the size of the plant itself. Too much capacity is not worth taking - it will slow the growth of the flower in the future. After transplanting, put the spathiphyllum in a warm place and spray it daily.

While the plant is not rooted, do not water it too plentifully. Rooting last about a week, so at this time, reduce watering twice. Feeding at this time is also not needed. When Spathiphyllum takes root, care returns to the previous regime.

What difficulties may arise when growing spathiphyllum?

Spathiphyllum is considered unpretentious plant. However, he is not immune from some problems. Let's look at what kind of trouble can be expected by the owners of this plant when growing, and what kind of care it needs for recovery.

  • Leaf tips turn yellow and dry

This problem occurs due to insufficient air humidity. In urban apartments it is inevitable, even with frequent spraying. To increase the humidity is simple: put pebbles (or other pebbles) in a small tray, moisten it, put a spathiphyllum on top. This method is good for winter maintenance of the flower. After all, it is in the winter that the air in the room is over-dried due to the heating devices;

  • Brown spots on leaves

Here excessive soil moisture or water stagnation in the pan is to blame. Dry the spathiphyllum well (do not water it for 3-4 days). Spraying the leaves do not stop. Then podpushite land in a pot, and the next day, plenty of water plant;

This suggests a lack of minerals in the ground - you need to feed spathiphyllum. Use nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers. You need to start feeding as soon as possible, otherwise the leaves will completely blacken and fall off.

Spathiphyllum is prone to thrips, mealybug and spider mites. If the insects have not yet had time to completely hit the plant, the usual soap solution, which needs to wash the leaves, will help.

In advanced cases, special chemicals are used, sold in flower shops. Sometimes unplanned transplant is required.

So we learned all about spathiphyllum, the blooming of which will not leave anyone indifferent. Love the plant and, if possible, provide it with the right care. The rest will be made by the flower itself - it will bring real female happiness to your home!

Proper transplantation and reproduction of indoor spathiphyllum.

Proper transplantation and reproduction of indoor spathiphyllum.

A spectacular plant without stems of dark green leaves always looks spectacular, especially when it blooms. Spathiphyllum is great for novice gardeners to get a hand and show off their successes in front of friends. Beautiful inflorescences should appear in early spring, and please the eye during the month. With proper care plant color several times a month.

Interesting! Psychologists believe that spathiphyllum helps to clean the air in the room, which is beneficial to the mental state of a person.

General useful information

Direct sunlight on the leaves will be harmful, but the flower likes diffused sunlight, moist air. Draft Spathiphyllum does not tolerate, therefore, you need to find in the apartment the best place for him, which will ensure active growth. Do not give the leaves to grow too actively, because it stops the flowering processes.

In winter, you need to especially carefully protect the flower from the cold, which it does not tolerate. Only at room temperature from 18 degrees Celsius and above the plant will grow well and develop properly. As for the ideal temperature - it is 23 degrees Celsius, to provide such conditions in an ordinary apartment is quite simple.

Each week, the leaves should be cleaned from dust and spray the plant. Water only as the top coat dries. In the presence of large leaves, watering should be provided a little more. If the leaves have wilted and the tips have started to dry, then the spathiphyllum lacks moisture, you can put a pallet with wet moss or wet stones next to it.

Spathiphyllum multiplication

- It is best to propagate the plant in early spring - in early March. It is possible to propagate a flower by the usual division of a bush. You can also use apical cuttings for this, but it is better to refuse the seed reproduction method: long and not efficiently.

Roots when dividing the bushes should be carefully disentangled. Smaller pots are chosen for planting than the one in which the plant has grown entirely. When you create a greenhouse conditions Spathiphyllum quickly take root. But be sure to ensure a few hours a day of airing, otherwise, excessive moisture will negatively affect the overall growth.

A shortened stem of a plant after reproduction may begin to branch. This is a good sign that new growth points are being formed. Young leaves will begin to appear simultaneously in several places.

You should not grow large greens, because it minimizes the possibility of the flowering process.

How to transplant spathiphyllum?

The damage to the roots of the spathiphyllum is extremely sensitive. Transplantation should be carried out carefully, perhaps even refuse gloves to feel each root with your fingers. After transplantation, it is necessary to ensure the flower warm, moderate watering and frequent spraying. These three factors contribute to fast rooting. The pot should be chosen not too large, otherwise, the growth and flowering of the plant will be extremely slow.

Suitable for transplanting soil:

Sod; Humus; Sand; Leafy;

Peat;

It will be great if you mix several types of soil.

The substrate must be moisture-permeable, and air is also good to pass.

Spathiphyllum: description, cultivation and care at home

It is necessary to provide a slightly acidic environment, for which it is necessary to add sand, charcoal or brick chips to the kidney. Be sure to make a good drainage.

Young plants should be transplanted once a year, and then you can switch to a mode of one transplant every three codes. Signal for transplanting - the roots filled the entire pot volume and they simply have nowhere to develop further.

With proper care, maintenance, transplantation and reproduction, spathiphyllum is resistant to pathogens and pests. If the air in the apartment is dry and watering is insufficient, then certain problems may start: dry leaves, no flowering, the appearance of aphids or mites.

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Spathiphyllum is a beautiful indoor plant that attracts the eye with unusually lush leaf greens and a beautiful inflorescence: a cream cob with a white spatula — a sail at the base. The plant does not require abundant sunlight, prefers partial shade, does not like abundant dressings. The simplicity of care, cultivation and reproduction allows the spathiphyllum to take its rightful place among other indoor plants.

There are some features of spathiphyllum breeding at home. This article provides helpful recommendations on how to grow a plant. The most accessible and common are: reproduction of spathiphyllum by dividing the bush and cuttings. Possible breeding seeds. The method of propagation by a leaf of spathiphyllum is not found in the literature.

Seed propagation

Immediately make a reservation, seed multiplication is a very laborious process.

Care for spathiphyllum at home

At home, it is difficult to produce artificial pollination of a flower, to get seeds, to create conditions for their ripening. The germination of spathiphyllum seeds is very small and quickly lost. If you still managed to get the seeds of spathiphyllum, you can try this method of reproduction.

Seeds are sown in a greenhouse in a moist soil consisting of sand and peat. Care should be taken that the soil is constantly in a wet but not wet state. When seedlings appear, they need to be periodically aired, slightly opening the greenhouse. This method of reproduction is possible, but not recommended for reproducing spathiphyllum at home, as it is complex and not always effective.

Read the same: How to grow a pumpkin yourself?

Cuttings

Vegetative method of propagation of spathiphyllum is most acceptable in the home. The cuttings are a small aggregate of young leaves at the base of the mother plant with root buds.

It is best to root the cuttings in spring and summer. From the mother plant gently separated rosettes of cuttings. For rooting use containers with wet sand. Well rooted cuttings in moistened perlite. In order for the roots to grow well, the cuttings are placed in a mini greenhouse.

When well-developed roots appear, the cuttings are planted in the prepared earthen mixture. Peat, sand, leaf, humus and garden soil are mixed in equal proportions. Young plants are watered.

Dividing bush

The most convenient and common method of propagation of spathiphyllum is dividing a bush. The plant grows, forms a lot of young rosettes with leaves and requires an annual transplant. At this time, the uterine plant can be divided into separate parts. This should be done very carefully, without damaging the root system. Otherwise, young plants will not take root. If there are no roots on the delens, they should be put into the water before the roots appear and only then be planted in the ground.

Each delenka should have at least 3 leaves and its core. Plants should not be planted in flower pots of large diameters. The root system will “fatten” until it takes up all the space in the pot. In this case, the flowering of spathiphyllum will have to wait a very long time.

Plants are planted in a special prepared soil for aroid plants. You can prepare the soil mixture yourself, as described above. At the bottom of the pot must lay a layer of expanded clay. It serves as a good drainage system for watering. Expanded clay retains moisture well and does not allow the roots to dry out quickly.

When planting delenok should not bury the root neck of the plant. With a large deepening can not wait for the flowering of spathiphyllum. The process of reproduction by dividing the bush should occur at a temperature not lower than 20 degrees.

Ease in the care of the plant and the fabulous beauty raise the spathiphyllum on the podium among the favorite room pets. Using simple methods of plant reproduction, you can please yourself, your friends and relatives with new specimens of this indoor flower, unsurpassed in beauty.

Who are unfamiliar tender ears of flowers, carefully guarded by a light veil-sail, outstanding from the juicy-emerald foliage spathiphyllum - evergreen perennial, long cultivated in indoor floriculture. This typical representative of the family of Aroids acquired another unambiguous name - female happiness.

Main characteristics

Spathiphyllum of up to 40 species is common in the habitat of the habitat - shady rain forests of Central and South America, New Guinea, the Philippine and Solomon Islands. Gorgeous endurance and love of high humidity distinguishes all species of this plant - and cultivated, and wild. English breeders "domesticated" Spathiphyllum as early as the 19th century, and there are many varieties of culture today - from midget babies to giants of impressive size with dark green or textured motley leaves.

The absence of a stem in a flower adds decorativeness, since the leaves located close to each other appear from the rhizome bundle and grow, effectively bending down and forming a luxurious shrub. Whole leaf lanceolate with textured relief veins.

Inflorescence - spadix on a long peduncle, wrapped with a white veil, turning green with time. Flowering begins in the spring and lasts several weeks. A good care for the spathiphyllum is a guarantee of re-flowering in the fall or winter.

How to care for a plant

The unpretentiousness of this culture has become the talk of the town, but in order to achieve generous flowering, it is worth taking care of it. In addition, it will not be necessary to strain too much, since taking care of a spathiphyllum at home is completely uncomplicated.

Lighting and room temperature

Spathiphyllum is shade-tolerant, but it develops better in illuminated places, excellently feeling on the northern window-sills or near windows of the east and west direction under diffused light. It develops well and at a sufficient distance from light sources, which is very valuable for arranging the interior of offices and offices.

How to care for spathiphyllum, rules for growing a flower at home

The lack of light in the plant is compensated by a certain slowdown in growth, sparse flowering and a more intense color of the foliage, which, however, does not affect the overall decoration.

Spathiphyllum does not make special demands on air temperature and grows productively at 18-25 ° C at any time of the year. It is important not to lower the temperature, because a reduction to 12–14 ° C will hinder the development of the plant, and 10 ° C will cause a serious threat, which can provoke root rot and death.

Spathiphyllum does not tolerate drafts, so when choosing a place for a flower, this fact is taken into account.

We select the soil for planting

The substrate should be light and breathable. Affects habits acquired by wild representatives, whose habitat is the lower tier of rain forests with loose, fertile, composted soil. The best soil for spathiphyllum is a mixture consisting of peat, garden soil, vermiculite, crushed charcoal and chips in a ratio of 3 * 2 * 2 * 1.

To avoid rotting of the roots, use drainage - expanded clay or fine gravel.

Transfer

Young fast-growing spathyphyllums are transplanted in the spring annually. Adult plants that have reached 4-5 years of age do not touch until the roots start to show from the drainage holes of the container. Spathiphyllum is convenient for a narrow and shallow pot, as in large containers the soil sours and inhibits growth, and flowering does not occur until the roots expand to the full volume of the container.

Important! With each next transplant, the dimensions of the new capacity increase slightly - by 1-1.5 cm.

Immediately before the transplant, the spathiphyllum is well watered. The ability of the plant to grow rapidly leads to the grinding of leaves and, in order for the flower to be pleased with large textured foliage and high peduncles, during transplantation at the spathiphyllum, the lateral processes detaching themselves to food are separated. At the bottom of the container lay a layer of expanded clay (2.5-3 cm), then place the plant together with the earthy clod and pour the soil, carefully compacting it, then generously sprinkle it with water with the addition of aloe juice. For the next 3-5 days, the plant should not be moistened, but should be sprayed twice a day.

Watering

With his love for humidity, the spathiphyllum does not welcome the stagnation of water in the pan. Watering during the active period should be generous, but reasonable: as the surface layer of the soil dries, the culture is abundantly moisturized. In the quiet period (from November to January), watering is reduced, still not allowing the earthman to dry out completely. Taking into account the high level of dryness of air in urban apartments in winter, you should constantly monitor the water regime. It is useful to place a container with a plant in a pallet with damp pebbles for the winter.

Humidity in the room should be high, and with the onset of the spring-summer season, frequent spraying is carried out, which the zapathiphyllum accepts gratefully, adding noticeably to the decorative effect.

Breeding

The preferred method of propagating spathiphyllum is dividing the bush. Separating the side shoots-sockets during spring transplantation, the florist receives ready planting material. Viable shoots should have at least 3-4 leaves, growing from the core, and roots.

Tip! In the absence of roots, the rosettes are placed in water and are waiting for their regrowth. Landing such a deal is a win-win option, it will take root necessarily.

Delenki are planted at once in separate containers filled with a special soil for aroid or prepared substrate, the composition of which is indicated above, and are cared for as independent plants.

Important! When planting the delenium, the basal neck is not deepened, otherwise the flowering of the spathiphyllum may not occur.

An option is reproduction by cuttings, which are clusters of young leaves with buds of roots at the base of the mother plant. Pruning spathiphyllum when separating cuttings-rosettes is not recommended. Young sockets easily move away from the parent plant. In summer and spring, they are well rooted in containers with wet perlite or sand. Film cover will accelerate rooting. When the roots appear, seedlings are placed in separate small containers with a mixture of sand, peat, humus and garden soil (1 * 1 * 1 * 3).

Seed propagation by florists is not practiced, since even mature seeds have low germination and do not always carry the varietal characteristics of the mother plant. You can sow the seeds immediately after collecting in a wet mixture of sand and peat. The seedling box is covered with film or glass and periodically ventilated to avoid mold.

Fertilizers and frequency of application

In the period of activity from March to October, the spathiphyllum requires additional feeding with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer (1.5 g. / 1 ​​l) once every 15–20 days. In the spring, it is more efficient to alternate mineral nutrition with organic matter, for example, Kemiru Universal with humus or 5% percentage of mullein infusion. By winter, feeding is stopped, but if the plant continues to grow rapidly or to bloom, then it is necessary to fertilize it once a month. Such a “behavior” is promoted by high-quality care, proper moisturizing and feeding.

Diseases and problems

Despite the fact that the plant's endurance is very high, sometimes the aphid attacks Spathiphyllum, and errors in the irrigation mode provoke the appearance of the spider mite. You can fight them with home remedies by wiping the leaves weekly with a solution of nicotine sulfate soap. The substrate in the tank is pre-covered with a protective film. A day after treatment, the drug is washed off the leaves. Repeat this operation as necessary.

Important! The simplest hygienic procedures - wiping leaves from dust and periodic inspections will help to prevent the attack of pests or prevent them in time.

Illnesses are usually the result of illiterate care. For example, the leaves turn yellow or wither if there are errors in the regularity of irrigation and the soil dries out. If this has already happened, then the plant should be restored to normal, gradually soaking the soil and increasing the volume of water. Yellowing of the foliage also causes a lack of nutrients; compliance with the regime of fertilizing will help eliminate it.

It becomes more dangerous if the spathiphyllum turns black leaves. As a rule, this is a sign of the dying off of the root system, which often occurs during overmoistening, keeping a flower in an insufficiently warm room or overfeeding.

Tip! When the leaves turn black, you need to remove the plant from the tank, examine the roots and remove the problem ones, and then transplant it into a new substrate, after holding it in the Epin or Zircon solution.

The leaves of the spathiphyllum dry when the air in the room is too dry or cold and there is a lack of food.

Fix this problem is easy, you need only to balance the dressing, as well as change the temperature and humidity in the room.

Spathiphyllum does not bloom in violation of the rules of planting and care.

Excessive deepening of the outlet when planting the plant, too large a capacity or the use of liquid wax in the care of the leaves - all this provokes a considerable delay in flowering.

Note that fix the trouble listed is easy. Spathiphyllum is extremely responsive to quality care, and as soon as its vital processes are restored, the decorativeness of this elegant handsome man rises.

how to root spathiphyllum picasso

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i torn off a leaf with a stalk without roots female happiness, how can it be rooted into the water? Or immediately into the ground?

Immediately pour water into the ground.

i wanted the best.  Enlightened (34252) 6 years ago

Are you talking about spathiphyllum? The top cutting was cut, why did I not understand the question? in general, he seems to be seated himself only with bushes, he has never heard the apical ones. Or if cut, from the root kids go. Maybe you have some other female happiness, they would call you normally, there would be no confusion.
Spathiphyllum is propagated in spring by cuttings and rhizome division.
Rooting cuttings produced in wet sand in a warm room (it is advisable to use minitplichku). After the formation of roots on the cuttings, they are planted in a substrate of the following composition: 1 part leafy ground, 1 part peat, 0.5 part sod, 0.5 part sand.

It is convenient to propagate the spathiphyllum, dividing its powerful creeping underground rhizome into several parts. Reproduction by dividing the rhizome is best done in the spring when transplanting. The shortened stem of the spathiphyllum begins to branch: new growth points are formed, young leaves unfold in several places

Bergenia  Enlightened (40952) 6 years ago

The handle is unlikely to have something for you. To propagate spathiphyllum need to divide the rhizome.

Read more

Spathiphyllum is a tropical plant, very popular among gardeners. Spathiphyllum genus combines about 45 species, some of which are very decorative and can be a wonderful addition to the collection of flowers and the greenhouse. Most often, spathiphyllum is blooming, cannoliflower, adorable, spoon-like and Wallis's spathiphyllum.

Spathiphyllum  - The plant is quite unpretentious, and it is perfectly suitable conditions that can be provided in the conditions of the room.

Spathiphyllum multiplication

The plant propagates vegetatively - in spring by dividing the bush or cuttings. There are also other methods, such as seed or tissue culture, but the former is used mostly in breeding work, since the seeds are tied very reluctantly, while the latter is completely impossible at home.

Rooting cuttings produced in a warm room in the wet sand, the ideal option - a pre-prepared minitplichka, which, however, do not forget to ventilate. After the formation of roots on the cuttings, they are planted in a special substrate having the following composition: 1 part peat land, 1 part leaf, 0.5 part sand, 0.5 part turf ground. When breeding by dividing the bush, the resulting material usually comes with roots, and therefore does not need prior rooting.

Spathiphyllum reproduction and care for young plants

Over the years, the spathiphyllum bush grows, it becomes very heavy, it cannot be replaced without serious consequences. At this time, loosened and removed only the top layer. The spathiphyllum flower, meanwhile, is aging and losing its decorative effect. Therefore, no matter how memorable the plant is for you, he needs to prepare a replacement. The procedure does not seem difficult for those who annually transplant a flower in a larger container.

Principles of spathiphyllum breeding

The biology of the flower is such that it does not have stems, and the lanceolate leaves come out straight from the ground, from the root of the sleeping buds. The resulting rosette of two or three leaves creates the vagina, from which the stem of the flower, wrapped in a white blanket, as in a diaper appears. So grows kutinka that allows you to disassemble the rhizomes into pieces, each of which contains either a finished plant with roots, or a sleeping kidney.

How does spathiphyllum reproduce in other known ways? It happens:

  • obtaining plants from sleeping buds rhizome pieces;
  • obtaining a young plant from cuttings or cuttings;
  • sowing seeds.
  • When spathiphyllum reproduces in any vegetative way with good care, it can bloom in 8-10 months. Seed method does not involve the transfer of signs of uterine bush, flowering occurs in 3-4 years. In this case, it is likely to get a completely new variety of female flower.

    For vegetative propagation, it is important to carry out the planned work in the spring, when the plant only starts growing after the winter rest. However, in the case of an illness or for another reason, it is possible to transplant a plant carefully even during flowering.

    Requirements for the soil or how to prepare the soil for spathiphyllum. The flower loves soil with a slight acidity composed of equal proportions:

    • garden or turf land;
    • leaf humus;
    • peat;
    • sand.
    • In addition, in order to give similarity to the natural composition, a total of 1 part is added from small bark of coniferous species, charcoal, ground into small fraction and brick or ceramic chips. After disinfection by known methods, the soil is moistened with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

      Regardless whether sowing seeds or rooting cuttings, spathiphyllum propagation work is carried out at a room temperature of at least 21 degrees.

      After planting or sowing seeds, everything is done for rooting. To do this, they create a mini-greenhouse, produce moistening of the leaves and the surface of the soil, and create conditions for the rapid restoration of root activity.

      Important for vegetative propagation of spathiphyllum is the choice of dishes. Tanks should not be spacious, or they should be planted in several racks at once. Until the container is filled with roots, the plant will not bloom.

      When planting, it is important to leave enough space on top for watering, have a good drainage layer of pebbles or expanded clay at the bottom, and not bury the plant's root neck.

      How to plant spathiphyllum, which is closely in capacity

      To do this, water the plant so that it easily slips out of the old pot. Since the task is to get the maximum amount of delenok, then the bush should be soaked in warm water in a large basin so that the roots are free from the ground. Put the plant on the table. In this case, the parts that need to be cut into a bush during fission will be clearly visible.

      Free each part from old brown dead roots. Leave the young blonde. Sprinkle the slices with crushed coal and prepare containers. Pour 2 cm of soil on top of the drainage, and arrange the roots of the delenka, straightening them slightly. Holding the plant on weight, gently pour a little prepared ground for spathiphyllum. Glass slightly shake and fingers seal the ground. Having filled up the roots, pour on the soil for compaction, after the ground has settled, put it to the neck and shake the plant, whether it is firmly seated.

      The first week you need to moisten the leaves with a spray bottle, keep the plant under the hood with little ventilation. If a clod of earth dries up, moisten it a little, so as not to provoke the rotting of diseased roots. A sign that the plant is rooted will be the appearance of a young leaf. After that, gradually release the plant from the shelter, start feeding in 3 months in half dose.

      Reproduction by delenkam without roots and pieces of rhizome

      In this case, it should be sprouted in the water and then planted as described above. Rhizomes laid out on wet sand or peat. In this case, until the roots germinate, the wet litter should be constantly. From above cover with a film, but air. As a result, the fragment will release the roots, and then it can be planted in the ground.

      How does spathiphyllum seed multiply?

      The plant is cross-pollinated, has male and female flower stalks. They differ in terms of flowering and flower height. Male blooms for 2-3 days earlier, pollen disappears until the female flower ripens. Therefore, seeds are obtained in greenhouses, where there are many flowers and they bloom at different times. The pollinated female flower turns green with time, becoming plump from the knobs that turn into peas. Seeds mature up to six months. Their vitality is low, and they must be sown immediately after removal.

      When purchasing seeds, make sure that they are fresh. If the uterine plant was a hybrid, then splitting properties would be inevitable. Growing seedlings are in a closed pot, sometimes opening it for ventilation. Shoots appear unevenly, from one pea appears several seedlings. After germination, the plant must be accustomed to the air gradually, opening the transparent film for a while.

      Such flowers develop much more slowly, but subsequently they are more resistant to the dry air of an apartment in winter. You can sow a large container to decorate the office space and young flowers will create an original composition, blooming at the same time.

      Another way would be to grow the seedlings up to 5-6 cm and plant in separate cups, from which you can also make any composition, but later they are easier to replant.

      Spathiphyllum Transplant Video

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      How to root a violet leaf in water




      Take a piece and cut the cutting at a 45-degree angle so that the cut is on the front side of the piece. The length of the remaining cutting should be no more than 2.5 cm, but not less than 1.5.
      A fresh cut of the leaf should be dipped in a mixture of Kornevin and crushed coal. After that, let the leaf dry for about 15 minutes.
      Fill the prepared container with water at room temperature and place a sheet in it. Put the piece in a bright place where there is no direct sunlight.
      That's all! After a while, on average, in two weeks, you will see that small white roots appear on the cut. You need to wait until they grow to a length of 1 cm and then transplant the cutting into the ground.

      How to root a violet leaf in water

      Comments

      The method is simple and interesting, I have a couple of questions - can I do without a means for rooting, can I use this method for similar plants?

      To be honest, I do not know whether it is possible to use this method. I personally have not tried.
      And about the means for rooting, I think you can, just root roots will accelerate the appearance of roots.

      Read more

      yes, I also read. that the pot for him should be cramped and only then he begins to blossom, i.e. if transplanted, then when the roots are completely sticking out and into the pot just a little more in volume than the previous one.
      i completely died old, bought a new one. flowering. while blooms like (ttt). when I finish, I want to transplant, but I think I should do it in the fall. that would sledzh fly bloomed. but he is so capricious that I don’t even know if it will work out))

      girls help. I found in the Spathiphyllum pot a huge number of sooo small white worms, they crawl on the surface on the ground, they are not easy to see, they are very small. I transplanted it, completely changed the whole earth, freed the roots to the maximum from the old earth and planted it in a cleaned new pot into the new earth. now they have reappeared, a few tricks, removed just a napkin. what to do. maybe there is some kind of medicine, something to tell? and he very rarely blooms with me, once a year only 1 flower.

      pour, for starters, manganese-I have it for all occasions

      Girls, please tell me: 091. I want to get myself Spathiphyllum.
      Today at work I cut off the delenka, but the only thing that happened was that there were no roots on the delenka, or rather, while trying to pull it out of the pot (using a knife) it formed roots + the lower part was cut off (not completely) from where the root grows.
      Sorry for the confusion in question
      Do you think will give roots or no sense to fight with him. 008:

      Here is what I found about the flower: There are no big problems with it. To shade from a bright sun, well transfers even insufficient lighting. Avoid drafts and temperature drops. Spray with settled water. He does not like abundant watering, but to prevent dry earthen clod can not. There must be good drainage in the pot, or the roots will rot from the accumulation of water. When transplanting it is necessary to take into account that the pot should be low and slightly cramped, otherwise you will not wait for flowering. During flowering, try to water the flower in the pan. Propagated by dividing the bush. And yet - a single shrub rarely blooms, but when there are more bushes - kids, that's when a lot of flowering occurs.

      She started recently - she is standing in the water for now, waiting for the roots.

      How to make 2 or three of it. 008:

      Read more

      Garden lighting - all the rules
      Lighting options are quite a few and each gives its effect. The most common - lighting the facades of buildings, lights up.

      Abramtsev bouquet
      In the year of the 170th anniversary of I.E. Repin Abramtsevo Museum-Reserve held an unusual music and floral time.

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      rooting in water

      If you decide to start growing violets, then one of the first processes you need to master is leaf rooting.
      The easiest way to suit all beginners is rooting in water.
      At exhibitions, razvodchitsy varietal violets often sell cuttings of their beauties. They all sell babies (small rooted plants), but babies are more expensive, and in the case of babies you have only one chance out of one to grow a plant.
      The rooted leaf eventually gives birth to offspring - most often it is a few babies. After the sheet was brought by the first generation of babies, it can be trimmed and redecreated.
      For rooting, you will need a small dark glass container (preferably a bottle of medication, pre-boiled in water) or with dark walls, some wood or activated carbon, a means to accelerate the appearance and growth of roots, for example, Kornevin, as well as purified or defended water.

      myhomeflowers.ru

      Spathiphyllum breeding at home

      Spathiphyllum is a beautiful indoor plant that attracts the eye with unusually lush leaf greens and a beautiful inflorescence: a cream cob with a white spatula — a sail at the base. The plant does not require abundant sunlight, prefers partial shade, does not like abundant dressings. The simplicity of care, cultivation and reproduction allows the spathiphyllum to take its rightful place among other indoor plants.

      Seed propagation

      Seeds are sown in a greenhouse in a moist soil consisting of sand and peat. Care should be taken that the soil is constantly in a wet but not wet state. When seedlings appear, they need to be periodically aired, slightly opening the greenhouse. This method of reproduction is possible, but not recommended for reproducing spathiphyllum at home, as it is complex and not always effective.

      Vegetative method of propagation of spathiphyllum is most acceptable in the home. The cuttings are a small aggregate of young leaves at the base of the mother plant with root buds.

      It is best to root the cuttings in spring and summer. From the mother plant gently separated rosettes of cuttings. For rooting use containers with wet sand. Well rooted cuttings in moistened perlite. In order for the roots to grow well, the cuttings are placed in a mini greenhouse.

      When well-developed roots appear, the cuttings are planted in the prepared earthen mixture. Peat, sand, leaf, humus and garden soil are mixed in equal proportions. Young plants are watered.

      Dividing bush

      The most convenient and common method of propagation of spathiphyllum is dividing a bush. The plant grows, forms a lot of young rosettes with leaves and requires an annual transplant. At this time, the uterine plant can be divided into separate parts. This should be done very carefully, without damaging the root system. Otherwise, young plants will not take root. If there are no roots on the delens, they should be put into the water before the roots appear and only then be planted in the ground.

      Plants are planted in a special prepared soil for aroid plants. You can prepare the soil mixture yourself, as described above. At the bottom of the pot must lay a layer of expanded clay. It serves as a good drainage system for watering. Expanded clay retains moisture well and does not allow the roots to dry out quickly.

      When planting delenok should not bury the root neck of the plant. With a large deepening can not wait for the flowering of spathiphyllum. The process of reproduction by dividing the bush should occur at a temperature not lower than 20 degrees.

      Ease in the care of the plant and the fabulous beauty raise the spathiphyllum on the podium among the favorite room pets. Using simple methods of plant reproduction, you can please yourself, your friends and relatives with new specimens of this indoor flower, unsurpassed in beauty.

      uhodvdomashnihusloviah.ru

      How to care for spathiphyllum at home

      How to care for spathiphyllum at home, the main problems and the nuances of cultivation are described in the information in our article.

      History of origin and characteristics of the plant

      Several countries in South America and Asia are considered the birthplace of this exotic flower. In the wild, this plant is very diverse, so the color of cultivated varieties also varies the widest range. Spathiphyllum does not have a stem, and it belongs to the aroid family.

      The main value are the original flowers with a corn-shaped protruding part and a frame - a sail.

      Color "sail" is usually white. Less common varieties with pink, cream or green colors. Regardless of color, this plant is distinguished by unpretentious care, and beautiful oval leaves themselves perfectly decorate the home.

      Flower spathiphyllum - female happiness

      Buying any indoor plant, it is now customary to pay attention to the beliefs associated with the new pet. In this regard, everything is in order: the flower Spathiphyllum symbolizes female happiness, family harmony and good relations. Due to the long flowering and spectacular leaves, it will decorate any interior, and unpretentious care will be the perfect reason to buy this plant to the newlyweds.

      By the way, one more interesting sign is connected with this flower. It is believed that the flowering period is closely related to the ability of a woman to become pregnant and make a healthy baby. That is why it is recommended to start such plants in young families. Female flower Spathiphyllum also has attractive properties for the stronger sex, so be sure to give this beauty to an unmarried friend or relative.

      Popular Home Spathiphyllum

      At home, usually grow small plants that are not demanding to the conditions of "living". In total there are about forty species of this plant, but for home conditions suitable for growing much less. Options with photos you will find further in our review.

      Home Spathiphyllum varieties:

      • Wallis's Spathiphyllum  considered to be a kind of standard, it is from him that most modern varieties are derived. The plant can reach up to 45 cm in height, and the length of the inflorescence 4-10 cm. The most unpretentious for breeding in room conditions.
      • Spathiphyllum is blooming  - the second most popular indoor plant of this group. For a long period of flowering, it is in good demand, although the inflorescences themselves are small in size. Oval leaves darken a little with age. The stem of the peduncle rises above the foliage by about 15–20 cm. The dimensions of the flower itself do not exceed 4–8 cm in length, and its thickness is about 3 cm.
      • Spathiphyllum Chopin - compact bush about 30-40 cm tall. In addition to neat oblong leaflets with pronounced veins, it is distinguished by unobtrusive aroma, which is considered rare for artificially bred varieties.
      • Spathiphyllum Cupido  got its name is not by the name of the discoverer. This is the name of the Dutch nursery, so Wallis compact spathiphyllums grown in this area are often called that way.
      • Spathiphyllum Picasso  quite large for both indoor plants. The leaves in length reach 25-30 cm, but their coloring attracts more attention. Along with green tones, there are also completely white sectors. Even without a spectacular peduncle, this plant looks interesting and original.
      • Aphan's Spathiphyllum  different slightly larger. The plant reaches a height of 50, and a longitudinal vein is clearly visible on the back of the perianth. Leaves pointed shape, rich green hue. Their location is usually strictly perpendicular, even at a young age.
      • Spathiphyllum Mauna Loa  different impressive size. This hybrid feels great at home, the flowering period as in other species is quite long. even in the cut state, the flower retains freshness for up to a month, so this plant can be grown for decoration.
      • Spathiphyllum Domino  to be remembered for a long time, because absolute delight is caused not only by small pointed perianths, but also by the leaves themselves. They have a small shape with an elongated pointed tip, and the colors resemble abstraction: white streaks and stripes are randomly scattered on a dark green background.
      • Spathiphyllum Sensation  - A hybrid variety, perhaps the most spectacular among the indoor plants. With proper care, it can reach half a meter high. Inflorescences also have impressive dimensions and, like the other varieties of this plant, can boast a long flowering period.
      • Another interesting variety can be called C patifillum Red, but according to the classification, it is likely to be an anthurium or a similar flower. Some sellers specially add colored water to the ground to give the perianth a more interesting color.
      • On sale there are relatively few varieties of this beautiful plant. Many of the proposed options are generally referred to as impersonal “spathiphyllum” without further instructions. You can choose just a visual inspection, because the differences between the varieties are minor.

        How to grow and care for spathiphyllum

        The simplicity of this plant has long been known among novice gardeners. Despite the fact that in the wild nature spathiphyllum grows in the tropics, it is not picky about lighting and humidity, and regular care is reduced to watering and annual transplantation. The highlights of proper growing are described below.

        Ground and ready ground for spathiphyllum

        Preference is given to special blends that are sold in stores. After transplanting to the prepared soil it is impossible to feed the plant within a month, because all the necessary fertilizers have been made.

        A flower pot is necessary with good drainage to prevent rotting of the roots.  Spathiphyllum soil should be regularly loosened so that the root system gets enough air.

        Proportions for self-preparation of the soil:

        • peat - 1 part;
        • leaf earth - 1 part;
        • humus - 1 part;
        • sand - 0.5 parts.

        It is imperative to finish shredding tree bark, brick chips and charcoal. An adult plant needs a regular change of the top layer of soil, which can be carried out without a transplant.

        The choice of location: light, temperature, drafts

        Direct sunlight is extremely harmful to the plant.  Be sure to black out in the summer, and for the rest of the seasons perfectly fit the sill on the southeast window. In the winter months, the plant does not need additional coverage, because then there comes a period of rest.

        The optimum temperature of the air at rest is not higher than 17 degrees Celsius. In the summer, he feels good at around 22-25? C, but is able to withstand heat even if it is watered abundantly. The plant does not tolerate drafts and frequent rearrangement, so it is better to choose a permanent place in advance, taking into account these requirements.

        How to water the spathiphyllum and spray the leaves

        For the productive development of the flower, it is desirable to create optimal conditions by regularly watering the plant in the spring - summer period. The leaves also need frequent spraying, and a weekly “shower” is best done.

        In addition, it is necessary to ensure that the dust does not accumulate on the leaves, because the aesthetic appearance of the plant will suffer from this. Watering is carried out with warm settled water, if necessary, you can use filtered or rain.

        Feeding and fertilizer for spathiphyllum

        The best fertilizer for spathiphyllum - mineral complexes. They can be purchased in specialized stores.

        Be sure to feed the flower during the period of active growth - from April to September. The optimal frequency is about once every two weeks.

        Spathiphyllum transplant: how and where to transplant

        An important part of caring for this plant is precisely in the regular "change of residence". For a young Spathiphyllum, a small-sized pot is enough with a margin of 3-4 centimeters. Each year around the end of winter the plant must be transplanted. To do this, choose a capacity of 2-3 centimeters larger in diameter, ready-made soil and plenty of water.

        How to transplant spathiphyllum at home? A drainage layer is placed on the bottom of the new pot, then the clod with the rhizomes of the plant is sprinkled with earth and well compacted. Abundant watering guarantees well-being in a new place, it is advisable to move the next feeding for about a month, because everything in the ground already has everything you need.

        Reproduction spathiphyllum young shoots

        Together with the transplant plants can be made simultaneously and the separation of young shoots. It is desirable to capture not only the root tuber, but also the upper shoots. If your plans do not include excessive growth of the bush, you can leave only one bud of shoots during the annual transplant.

        To make the plant better rooted, you can leave the upper part in the water for about 2-3 weeks. After the appearance of the germs of the roots, it is transplanted into the prepared soil.

        Frequent problems with care

        Despite the simplicity and capriciousness of this plant, you can often find complaints about the lack of flowering, yellowing of leaves and other problems. In more detail to understand the main reasons for the emergence of a particular situation will help the information below.

        Why spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow

        This symptom is a signal of lack of moisture. Using too hard water for irrigation can also lead to such conditions. It is desirable to normalize the irrigation schedule, as well as to allocate a special tank for the sludge of tap water. If the color of the damage is darker, even brown, the reason may be excessively active feeding and an excess of nutrients.

        Why spathiphyllum leaves turn black

        Another distress call is the blackening of the leaves of the plant. This indicates insufficient or excessive watering, as well as a shortage of nitrogen in the soil. By eliminating these shortcomings, you can hope for a gradual update of the leaf cover.

        Why spathiphyllum dry leaf tips

        Paying attention to this feature, you need to take care of additional moisture leaves. It speaks of excessively dry air, and in fact a spathiphyllum is a tropical plant. Regular spraying and wiping with a damp sponge will help to solve this problem; it is best to alternate such events with a weekly shower.

        Why the spathiphyllum does not bloom, releases only leaves

        A characteristic feature of this plant is that flowering can occur only after filling the entire area of ​​the pot with the root system. To do this, it is necessary to wait some time, it is important to accurately calculate the dimensions of the selected capacity, otherwise this period will be very long.

        What if the spathiphyllum does not bloom, even reaching an adult state? Perhaps the problem lies in the lack of watering or fertilizing the flower. The lack of minerals can slow down the development, but it is necessary to eliminate the deficiency very carefully. Temperature regime also matters, because for a cool room to achieve flowering will be very difficult.

        How to make spathiphyllum bloom for a long time? It is best to use a combination of moderate dressing and the creation of optimal conditions for plant development. Dried inflorescences must be removed, the stem is cut at the very roots.

        Various problems with cultivation, as well as the answer to the question: why the spathiphyllum does not bloom at home, can be caused by characteristic diseases and pests.

        Major pests and diseases of spathiphyllum

      • Spider mite  often affects young shoots. Identify it quite easily thanks to the released web. An ambulance will be to immediately treat the leaves and flowers with soapy water. For severe cases can not do without insecticides.
      • Shchitovka  - extremely insidious disease that can destroy the plant. Having found characteristic bulging spots on the back of the leaves, the pet should be immediately isolated from other plants, treated with soapy water and tobacco chips. The most affected leaves are removed; if necessary, chemical means are used.
      • Aphid  also often affects indoor plants, especially during the summer "rest" in the fresh air. To destroy these small pests need leaf treatment with special solutions, and not once.
      • Mealybug  also a frequent "guest" and the culprit of problems with the plant. It hides between the leaves, so it can often be revealed when examining a plant. Single individuals are cleaned with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Total infection should be treated with special drugs.
      • Various varieties of this plant will allow you to grow in this house exotic. Flowering can last almost all year round, so this plant is extremely decorate your home. Care for spathiphyllum at home, the cultivation and treatment of major problems are discussed in detail in the information in our article.

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    Spathiphyllum - flowering indoor plant, known and loved by many gardeners. Possessing various indisputable advantages, in particular, a very attractive appearance, unpretentiousness, the ability to purify the air of city apartments from formaldehyde and phenol vapors, it is also famous for its ease of reproduction. If your acquaintances have an adult spathiphyllum, then it is not difficult to get a young copy from the mother plant. There are three options for how to do this.

    Dividing bush

    This is the easiest and most convenient way, and useful for the mother plant. Spathiphyllum grows very quickly, forming many young rosettes. After a couple of years, he is able to occupy the entire surface of the pot, creating thick thickets and draining the soil. Therefore, it requires not only the annual transplant, but also the periodic division of the bush. Delenki, obtained as a result of this procedure, are already ready young plants that do not require additional growing or any special procedures. All that is required is to plant them in a separate pot.

    - divide the bush preferably before the beginning of the active growing season, in the spring;
      - Delenka should contain at least three well-developed sheet rosettes and have a strong and intact root system;
      - when planting to a new place, it is impossible to deepen the basal neck, the ground level should be the same as in the original bush;
      - for growing spathiphyllum, you should choose small pots, otherwise the plant will begin to actively develop the root system and increase the green mass to the detriment of flowering.

    In order for the division of the root system to be injured as little as possible, you can use the following method. Before removing a plant from a pot, it must be thoroughly shed so that the root system is saturated with moisture and becomes less brittle. It is better not to cut the clod of the earth “blindly”, but to soak and dilute gently, freeing and unraveling the roots. Then it will be possible to see and evaluate those parts into which the bush should be divided. It is desirable to free each ready-made part from old rotted or dried roots and leaves, sprinkle wounds with pounded charcoal, give them time to dry a little and then plant in a new pot, straightening the roots, gradually sprinkling them with earth and compacting the soil.

    Ready-made specialized ones are quite suitable as substrates, but those who want to please their pet can prepare the soil mixture on their own by taking one part of peat, sheet and sod land and adding half the proportion of coarse-grained river sand.

    Cuttings

    As the cuttings use leaf sockets, cut from the mother bush in the spring or summer season. If they already have a small root system, young plants can immediately be planted in the ground. Otherwise, simple measures will be required to promote the rapid development and growth of the roots. The simplest thing is to wait for the root formation by placing the rosette-cutting in a glass of water, where it is desirable to add half a tablet of activated charcoal, otherwise the base of the stem will quickly become covered with mucus and begin to rot.

    The process of rooting in a tank with water is the simplest, but, as practice shows, it is faster and more reliable in special substrates. As the latter, you can use coarse river sand or perlite. In addition, peat moss and sphagnum moss, moistened and tightly tamped around the cutting, have proven themselves to be good. To speed up the process, around the sheet rosette maintain high humidity, covering it with a transparent cap or placing a pot with a plant in a mini-hothouse.

    Separately, we note that the spathiphyllum does not reproduce with leaf cuttings, even if the stalk from the stem is cut off with a “heel”.

    Seed propagation

    Seed propagation of spathiphyllum can be done by those who are interested in the process itself, since growing this plant from seed is a very difficult and time-consuming exercise. One of the main problems of this method of reproduction is the rapid loss of germination. That is, the seeds collected from the plant, it is desirable to immediately sow. And for this you should first pollinate blooming spathiphyllum and wait for the seeds to ripen. Neither the first nor the second can be called a simple matter, so it is easier to look for seeds in flower shops.

    When buying seeds, you must check their shelf life. As already mentioned, only fresh seeds germinate in the spathiphyllum, and even at the very beginning the germination rate does not exceed half.

    Sow the seeds in a flatbed with a wet substrate consisting of a mixture of sand and peat, and put it in a mini-greenhouse with a small (up to 24 ° C) heated. It is recommended to maintain soil moisture by spraying, and the mini-teplichka itself should be aired regularly, since due to the increased humidity, mold can start to grow on the soil surface and the seeds simply rot.

    Caution!

    When working with Spathiphyllum, especially when pruning and dividing the rhizome, you must remember that it belongs to poisonous plants and its juice can cause various allergic reactions. Therefore, it is impossible to prevent the plant juice from getting on the mucous membrane, and after working with it you need to thoroughly wash your hands.

    Flower "Women's happiness" is in my flower collection for a long time. The plant is unpretentious, elegant and very decorative. Emerald glossy leaves with white original flowers look great in the interior. Recently, a friend asked to give her a small spike.

    The flower belongs to the aroid family and the tropical forests of South America are considered to be its birthplace. The plant loves heat and moisture, and is also able to clean the air from harmful vapors and saturate the space with oxygen.

    The great advantage is reproduction in several ways: seed, cutting, dividing the bush. Reproduction using a sheet in the scientific literature is not described.

    • If you are going to propagate the plant with the help of seeds, then it should be done in the second half of February or in early March.
    • The method of grafting and dividing the bush breeds spathiphyllum at any time of the year. The only exception is the period of active flowering. It is better to wait until it ends.

    Before the procedure is required to prepare all the necessary materials.

    1. Scissors, pruner or knife, all items must be sharp and disinfected.
    2. Ceramic container go wood.
    3. Water tank for cuttings.
    4. Glass to create a greenhouse.

    Breeding methods

    There is nothing complicated. It should only comply with all recommendations, and then properly care for the plant. Consider in more detail each of the methods.

    Cuttings

    One of the most convenient ways that you can use at home for the reproduction of this decorative flower.

    1. The cuttings themselves are a few young leaves collected in rosettes and separated from the mother bush. If there are small root processes on the cuttings, then it is possible to plant the shoot immediately to the ground.
    2. When there are no roots, the cuttings are placed in water, where the activated charcoal should first be poured. Shoots are put there to root. As soon as they appear, the escape is planted in a special substrate.
    3. The best time for rooting and reproduction is spring or summer. In order for the stalk to take root faster, the soil should be mixed with sand, which should be moistened. Also, a good option would be moistened perlite and the creation of a small greenhouse for cuttings.
    4. After some time, more root processes appear. Then you can already transplant the plant to a permanent place. Soil mixture can be prepared independently: in equal parts you need to take sand, peat, leaf and garden soil and humus. All components must be thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous mass.

    The main thing is to moisten the soil well and keep it warm. Do not forget that the plant is tropical, and does not tolerate drafts and cold. It is also important to maintain a high level of humidity in the room.

    Dividing bush

    Since the flower grows quite strongly and requires annual transplantation, this method will be timely and most popular. It is not only simple, but also helps the maternal shrub to grow more actively, eliminates unnecessary processes.

    You should inspect the plant before the procedure. It is important that it has a healthy appearance, and the root system is strong and intact.

    The separation of the bush is done before the flowering period, in early spring. A delenka is ready for separation when there are at least 3 independent rosettes with leaves on it. The root neck of a part of a flower bush should be located at the same level as that of the parent plant.

    • The pot must be prepared in advance. It should not be too large, just one size previous. If the root system has too much space, it starts to grow. This may delay the flowering period of the spathiphyllum.
    • The soil in the pot with the main plant should be plentifully wet. Then you can pull out the flower without unnecessary injury to the root. It is desirable to do this together with the earth lump.
    • Next, clean the roots well and gently with soil and rinse them. Inspect the root system: all dried, damaged or rotted processes should be removed so as not to infect a fungal infection.
    • With a sharp knife or pruner, separate the desired part from the mother bush. Places slices should be powdered with crushed activated carbon, and then leave for several hours to dry.
    • Then you can transplant the young plants into separate pots, which should not be too spacious and deep.
    • At the bottom of the pot must be put a drainage layer of expanded clay or small stones. It is needed for ventilation of the root system and moisture conductivity.
    • Soil for plants can be purchased at the garden shop. Suitable substrate for aroid plants. You can cook your own soil mixture: one by one of leafy soil, peat and turf and half of the sand. Such a composition will make the soil loose and light, moderately fertilized.
    • Ensure that the root neck is not deeply buried in the soil. May not begin flowering period. The temperature in the room where the procedure takes place should be about +20 degrees Celsius.

    Seed method

    This method is considered one of the most laborious, and is not common. The seeds of this flower quickly lose their ability to germinate. You can use this method only immediately after collecting the seed.

    In order to get seed at home, you must pollinate a flower manually with a brush during the flowering period. It will be easier to purchase ready-made seeds. According to reviews, only half of the seed is planted. If you still decide to experiment, then you should do everything step by step.

    1. First, prepare a non-deep container. Put a layer of drainage on the bottom, top with a layer of a mixture of river sand and peat. Ingredients must be mixed well. The soil should be light and loose.
    2. Place the seeds at some distance from each other. Sprinkle some earth on top, but do not tamp it so that the seed material does not go deep into the ground.
    3. Place the container in a room where the air temperature will be at least 24 - 25 degrees Celsius. Cover the seeds with glass on top. Get a small greenhouse.
    4. Moisten the soil regularly and ventilate so as not to begin to putrid processes and mold. Shoots may die.
    5. Shelter must be removed daily. You need to moisten the soil slightly irrigating, so as not to wash off the seeds.
    6. When there are young shoots with several independent leaves, then transplant each into a separate small pot for further growth and development.

    Care rules

    The choice of location and temperature

    For a young plant it is very important to find a place in a room where there will be no direct sunlight and shade. Best suited scattered light. Then the bush will quickly grow.

    In spring and summer, the air temperature in the room should not be higher or lower than 22 - 23 degrees Celsius. In autumn and winter, you can slightly reduce the temperature, but not below +16.

    If the room is cold (below +10), then the spathiphyllum will die. Do not allow drafts, the plant does not like it very much.

    Watering features

    • Water for soil moistening should be separated and at room temperature. Abundantly need to moisten the soil in spring and summer. Especially during flowering and in dry weather.
    • In the hot season, you do not need to wait until the earth dries out, water several times a week. The soil must be constantly moist. But pouring young bushes is also not recommended.
    • It is undesirable that when spraying water falls on the flowering part of the plant. But in the summer period it is necessary not only to moisten the soil 2 times, but also to irrigate the leaf plates of the flower with the rain method. Remember that he loves moisture and water.
    • In winter, you can reduce the number of irrigations to 1 time in 7 days.

    Feed and fertilizer

    The plant needs mineral fertilizers in the spring - summer period. It is necessary to plant them at the rate of 1 g on 1 liter. Before the feeding procedure you should always moisten the potted soil.

    Feed the bush constantly, at least 1 time in 14 days. If Spathiphyllum does not bloom, then do not stop fertilizing in winter, just reduce the feeding to 1 time per month.

    In the period of active flowering fertilizer is not recommended. And before it you can feed with potassium and phosphorus. These substances promote flowering. After transplantation, it is also not recommended to feed the flower.

    If the plant does not want to bloom, then this indicates excessive fertilizer. Also, it may be time to transplant the plant, since the roots are already crowded in the old pot.

    Conclusion

    • Spathiphyllum is really an ornament to any home, and it also brings happiness to women. And this is just a beautiful plant with beautiful flowering. It is unpretentious and does not require much effort in the care.
    • There are several ways to propagate a flower. The simplest that even a beginner can do is divide the bush. Seed method and method of cutting is better to use experienced gardeners.
    • After planting, young plants need care: regular watering, fertilizing and diffused lighting. Do not fertilize the flower too much, because it may not bloom.