From the author:welcome you, dear reader. We are glad that you decided to visit our repair and construction portal. On our site there are articles devoted to the description of the process of preparing the surface for painting. Today we will talk on another topic that can be considered related. We will learn how to align the walls under the wallpaper in an apartment or a private house with their own hands.

In new buildings, there is often no need to level the walls - they are already in proper form, but in old houses the degree of flatness of the walls clearly leaves much to be desired. The wall repair strategy should be determined based on the solution of several important issues.

Firstly, whether we need a perfectly flat surface (with a degree of irregularity not greater than 2 mm per 2 m²) or only a “surface”, so to speak, visual flatness will suffice.

Secondly, do we need strictly straight lines — at 90 ° angles. The fact is that if you plan to install large-sized furniture, so to speak, on the whole wall, for example, a wardrobe, then the corners should be straight and the walls should be strictly vertical, that is, they should be strictly relative to the floor. at 90 °. Otherwise, after the installation of such furniture will be visible even those flaws that were not visible to the naked eye.

So, we already roughly understand what result we would like to see after the end of the work. Now it's time to proceed directly to action. To begin with, we take the two-meter building level and use it to determine how smooth our walls are.

It is also necessary to measure two diagonal rooms. If they are equal, then that's fine. If not, then the geometry is clearly broken. The permissible degree of inequality of the two diagonals is up to 12 mm. If in your case this indicator is not exceeded, then you can only be congratulated: the leveling works are coming not so global.

Wall alignment methods

In this section of the article we will name the main ways of leveling the walls, and also consider what they are, so that you have the opportunity to choose the most suitable for yourself. Naturally, no one will leave you without practical advice, so after reading the text materials, you can already go to the store and buy building materials for work.

Putty

Here we will not advertise any of the companies that produce putty mixtures, since the article is not an ad. We only note that the building materials market does not limit the consumer in choosing: you can buy anything, as they say, for every taste, color and wallet. But really high-quality products can not cost too cheap. For building materials, this truth is fair.

But before you putty the walls, it is necessary to carry out the preparatory work. Here's how to prepare the surface for puttying:

  • remove remnants of old wallpaper and pieces of exfoliated plaster, if any. In a word, it is necessary to make it so that further work with a spatula would not interfere with anything;
  • process the wall with antifungal agent (antiseptic). This is especially true if there is a possibility of increased humidity indoors, as it provokes the formation of fungal colonies, which not only emit harmful spores into the air, but also gradually destroy walls, literally “eating” them;
  • process the wall with a penetrating primer. This is also a very important stage that cannot be ignored. The primer improves adhesion of finishing materials to the surface of the wall and prevents its premature destruction.

Now turn to the preparation of putty mass. Material consumption is determined by a simple formula, which cannot be called a formula: 1 kg per 1 m² with a layer thickness of 1 mm, or, in a different way, (1 kg: 1 m²) × 1 mm.

Keep in mind that cooking putty should be exactly the amount in which you intend to use it, because it is not borscht and not soup, which can be cooked for several days. The putty mass is not designed for this practice, as it freezes quite quickly.

The batch should be made in a metal bucket, as the plastic can not withstand the blows of a harsh mixer. In addition, it will be much more convenient for you to work if the bucket is not round, but, say, square. In addition, it will reduce the consumption of putty mixture. So, if you have a square metal bucket at your disposal, then it's time to use it. But if there is none, do not worry, use what is.

In addition to the bucket, we will need to acquire two spatulas:

  • the first is narrow (10 cm). It is useful in order to gain a putty mass of a bucket (the same, - metal and square). In addition, a narrow trowel will have to be applied to the second, more “serious” tool - a wide trowel. With it we will clean the latter from adhering residues of putty;
  • the second - wide - “serious” - spatula. His “degree of seriousness,” that is, width, will depend on how much the work surface is twisted. The wider it is, the wider the alignment bar is, which is logical. Although there can be no strict standards regarding the width of the instrument, one figure is still worth it: it should be no longer (!) 40 cm.

Starting putty walls should be done in two layers, and between them, for better adhesion and prevent microcracks, should be laid paint net. This does not entail large material costs and does not take much time and effort, but it will provide reliability, and, as we understand, for us it is fundamentally important.

Keep in mind that the wall should be aligned in all directions: not only from top to bottom, but also from left to right. How to do it? - very simple. It is necessary to apply layers of putty mass perpendicularly in relation to each other - that's all.

Wielding a spatula to take into account another important nuance. The smaller the angle of its inclination when applying putty on the wall - the thicker the layer will turn out. Finishing putty should be applied with a thin layer, which is practically washed away after applying primer on it before direct painting or.

To bring the oiled surface to a perfect condition, wait for the putty to dry (± 24 hours at 15–20 ° C), and then use a fine grating to completely polish the surface.

Here, in principle, the entire alignment process in this way. Go to the next.

Stucco at the beacons

This method of alignment is appropriate in the event that the walls are very much curves, which is noticeable purely visually, that is, with the naked eye. Be prepared for the fact that this process is quite long, dirty and time consuming. But on the other hand, it’s very effective, if the putty doesn’t help, and the plasterboard (gypsum board) doesn’t take up too much useful space from a room that’s not very big. Only in this case it would be advisable to resort to this method of alignment.

It is also rather imprudent to prepare the plaster mixture, if, of course, you are not a professional in this matter. In fact, it is rather difficult to measure all the necessary components in the correct proportions. But the way out is very simple: buy a ready-made mixture - and get to work without unnecessary, unnecessary movements.

Be sure, all sorts of polymer components that are added to the plaster mixtures during the manufacture contribute to the strength and durability of the plastered surface. You can not even resort to the use of polymer mesh at work.

If you need to plaster a concrete or brick wall - use a cement-sand mixture. This method is suitable if the room humidity is above average. In turn, for walls made of wood, gypsum, alabaster or alumina cement will be suitable.

If the humidity in the room is at a normal level, then we see a lot of options: this is a lime-clay / clay-gypsum, and cement-lime, and lime-gypsum mixtures.

Before proceeding to leveling the working surface, it is necessary to conduct a series of preparatory activities. In the previous section, we have already listed exactly how the walls should be prepared for alignment.

When everything is ready - you should install two vertical guides of the lighthouse at the edges. It goes without saying that without using the building level is not enough. By the way, instead of special metal lighthouses, you can also use ordinary planks made of wood, which will later be removed.

In turn, the alignment of the intermediate guides is carried out by the threads stretched between the two main beacons. The distance between them should be 20 cm less than the rule with which the working surface will be aligned.

To fix the beacons on the wall, you need a special plaster glue.

Now that the lighthouses are arranged and fixed in their places, it’s time to begin the alignment, which will take place in several stages.

First, - putting liquid plaster. Apply on the work surface it should be a continuous layer (± 4 mm thick) on the surface, pre-sprayed with water. If you work with a wooden surface, then the thickness of the plaster layer can be all 9 mm.

The main purpose of this first layer is to create a transition between the main working surface and plaster, which will be applied later.

Secondly, the application of soil. If the previous solution can contain up to 60% water, then here everything is somewhat different. In this case, the solution should contain up to 30% water, which means that it should turn out much thicker.

As for the thickness, it should be no more than 7 mm. If the irregularities are very significant, then there should be several layers. Each of the applied layers should be carefully leveled - it is necessary to work a good rule.

Thirdly - the application of the last layer (up to 4 mm). In construction, this process is also referred to as "nakryvkoy." In order for this layer to adhere firmly to the ground, the latter must not be completely dried. If you hesitate, and the soil is dry, then before starting to apply the liquid plaster, the previous layer should be moistened with water.

GKL (plasterboard sheets)

Often resort to the method of alignment of the walls using drywall sheets. What can I say? Drywall is good in everything: it is a durable, durable, environmentally friendly material from which you can do anything. In addition, it is environmentally friendly and harmless to the health of people and animals. The only drawback is that the size of the room will somewhat decrease, but if it doesn’t matter, you can safely use this alignment method.

If the curvature of the walls is not critical, you can fix the gypsum plasterboard on the wall with a special plaster composition and dowels with self-tapping screws.

If the walls are curved to a significant extent, then the sheets of drywall should be mounted on the frame. Here's how to make it:

  • mount the UD profile around the perimeter;
  • mount CD profiles in a vertical position in increments of up to 60 cm;
  • fix the gypsum board on the frame with self-tapping screws (25 mm) in 30 cm increments.

The joints between the gypsum plasterboard and the place where the screws were screwed in are filled with a special plaster mass. Now, theoretically, wallpaper can be glued to the surface of drywall, but keep in mind that in this case it will be difficult to remove them when re-repairing without damaging the drywall itself. To avoid this, the surface should be further primed.

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Modern requirements for the repair of premises have become much more stringent. Now an inapplicable attribute of an apartment or house are flat walls. But the walls, even in new buildings, even approximately cannot be called that, and even in old houses - even more so. Therefore, in almost any repair, alignment of the walls is an inevitable stage. How to do it better, about the methods and technologies, the possibilities to do it all with your own hands and talk further.

How to align the wall

Although technologies in construction are developing rapidly, leveling the walls is still being done in two ways: plastering and plasterboard plating. Another thing is that there are different compositions of plaster - on the basis of gypsum and cement, and it is possible to mount gypsum plasterboards in two ways: on the frame and on glue. But that's all.

Smooth walls - the requirement of modernity

For some time, plasterboard sheets began to be replaced with gypsum-fiber boards GVL). They consisted of a mixture of gypsum and vegetable fibers, but, as it turned out, they poorly hold shock loads and break even with minor impacts. Because GVL leveling walls with their use is now a rarity (sometimes put on the floor).

In Soviet times, the walls were leveled with plywood. But this is exactly the last century. It is far from the best replacement for gypsum plasterboard, which in 100% of cases gives cracks at the joints, and even from moisture it swells up. It turns out that there is nothing to use instead of drywall. So the choice is really not very wide.

Actually there is still one way -. But it is used only on relatively flat walls with a difference of no more than 5 mm. Therefore, the walls are usually already plastered, bringing the plane to the ideal.

If we talk about how easier it is to level the walls with their own hands, then many agree that it is easier to work with drywall. But with plaster on the lighthouses cope easy. The main thing is to know the technology and not retreat from it.

Align the walls with plaster

Plaster is on two binders: cement-based and gypsum-based. Gypsum dry faster, but the maximum layer with which they can be applied less is about 50 mm. Cement-based plasters can be layered up to 10 cm, but they dry longer.

Plastering the beacons - a reliable way to level the walls

In addition to the layer thickness, when choosing a type of plaster mixture, it is necessary to consider which of the finishes will be later, as well as the conditions of the rooms in which you are going to level the walls. Gypsum is hygroscopic, because in wet areas it is not used: the bathroom and the kitchen need to be plastered with a cement-based compound. For gypsum there are rooms and a hall. So basically they do.

In our description we will use plaster plaster - Rotband - a popular brand that has good reviews from amateurs and professionals.

Surface preparation

Removing everything that hangs badly on the wall: repulse, pick out, brush off with a spatula. If there are cracks, we sew them. Then we estimate the degree of curvature. If there are very large protrusions that stand out too much, it is advisable to remove them (with a hammer and a chisel or perforator).

Often starting the alignment of the walls in the old house, decide the question: whether to knock down the old plaster, if it does not fall. In principle, the master should evaluate, but you can try. Tap the wall. If there are places that differ in sound - they sound duller - then the layer here has moved away from the main wall. If you “hang” another layer of plaster on it, there is a high probability that all this will collapse together. It will be much worse. So it is better to beat the previously plastered walls down to the base material.

If, when preparing, individual gouges appeared too large, it is better to seal them separately. Putties are limited to the minimum and maximum layers. Too large a layer may fall off. Because it is better to pre-fill holes or holes.

When leveling a concrete wall or a surface painted with a film-forming composition, another problem arises: it is too smooth, due to which adhesion to plaster may be bad. The case can be helped by treating the primer of the “Betonokontakt” type, which leaves a rough film on the surface, improving the adhesion.

Another way out is to make notches. Once they were made with an ax, now more often they use a hammer drill, a grinder. With their help, notched. At the rate of notches per square meter should be about 100 pieces.

Primer

Depending on the type of plaster selected (gypsum or cement), select a primer. Its main task is to improve the adhesion of the wall and plaster. Carefully read the instructions for using a primer. Some require to moisten before applying the base, some - to remove dust, etc.

In this group there are two favorites: Cerezit 117 and Betonkontakt. There are others, but these are used more often: good reviews. The composition may be ready for use or require dilution (concentrate). It can be applied with a roller or a brush, a spray gun, even a garden spray can be used to speed up the process.

Up to this point there were no difficulties for self-leveling walls. Everything is elementary. Further - a little more difficult, but also - not to build rockets.

Installation of beacons

If you want to achieve a flat surface, you can level the wall only by beacons. These are the supporting elements that are set in the same plane. On them the plaster layer is then leveled. As beacons, you can use special galvanized "T" -shaped beacons or plain wooden strips.

Use metal beacons more convenient - set faster. But at the same time the minimum layer of the stucco is about 8-10 mm (6 mm of the beacon + solution on which it is placed). Another disadvantage is their cost: although not very big money, but still additional costs. Another point: the plaster with galvanizing is badly “contacted”, because after the initial drying the beacons are taken out of the wall, the holes are sealed.

Using wooden slats is a cheaper option, but finding a sufficient number of perfectly even bars in a cheap material is problematic (you won’t use a high-quality timber). Even if it succeeds, the likelihood that the tree will lead from moisture remains. As a result, the wall will not be even.

Some make beacons from the solution. Pre-applied strip of plaster, aligning them to level. After freezing, they are used as beacons. The cheapest way, but the most time-consuming, and requiring much more time.

The leveling of the walls will determine how perfect the beacons are. Exposed for sure - got a great result. If you made a mistake, you will be tormented by correcting the irregularities that you made with your own hands.

Details on how to put beacons to align the walls, under the coupler, read.

Overflow solution

The selected plaster is diluted as indicated on the package. Then throw on the wall. Use a wide spatula or paint bucket. Begin from below, cover with a solution a piece of a wall from one lighthouse to another.

The beginning of the wall plaster on the beacons

Then take the rule, set it down. Leaning on lighthouses, they pull up, slightly shaking from side to side. Several such passes are made until the solution is leveled. Poured on the rule of the composition is removed with a spatula, again throwing on the wall.

Again - a portion of the solution on the wall, leveled by the rule. So up to the top. Tightening one lane, proceed to another. So gradually line the entire wall.

The first stage of the plaster is finished. But this is only the first. The surface is not perfect: if you look closely, there are small irregularities. They are leveled with a more liquid solution, achieving a smoother surface.

Alignment under the putty

When the first layer has dried a little, but has not yet hardened (no later than 2-4 hours after application), begin to level out under the putty. The existing drawbacks are overwritten with the same solution, which was diluted slightly thinner than required by the instructions. Since it is more fluid, it is applied with a wide spatula, after stretching the rule along the wall, relying not on the same beacons.

So again pass the entire wall, aligning already to a perfectly flat plane. This is necessary in order to reduce the consumption of expensive putty mixture.

Removing beacons and trimming

When the solution is dry to a state of thick clay (strongly press with your fingers, it bends), you can remove the beacons. They are hooked at the bottom with a screwdriver and pulled out.

They are removed very easily. Actually, because of that, they are taken out that they form a heterogeneity in the plaster, and therefore, reduce its strength.

Now we take the rule, clean it from the stuck solution and, pulling in different directions, finally level the surface. This should be done at the initial stage of thickening, when gypsum plaster looks like clay: it is easy to cut it off with the rule.

When leveled the surface, divorced Rotband. They are filled immediately, without waiting for something: until the plaster is completely hardened, new layers stick to it well.

The solution is applied and removed with a spatula. At the same time make sure that the surface remains smooth. On this alignment of the wall under the putty can be considered complete.


When leveling the walls with plaster in apartments, the problem is the angle in which the heating pipe passes. The rule is not crawling there, but the spatula does not work out exactly. If you are familiar with this trouble, see the following video.

Dry plaster: level the walls with a gypsum cartridge

Not everyone has the patience to level the plaster, and in several layers, and then wait until it dries. Faster to work with sheet material - cardboard sheets (GCR). This technology is also called dry plaster, because there is a minimum of “wet” processes in it, and the result is just as good: if you follow all the nuances, the wall is perfectly even.

But this technology has disadvantages. The first is that you can hang something heavy on either the mortgage bars laid in advance, or use special fasteners that will be held at the expense of the main wall, and not the finish. So take this into account. The second drawback: this plaster eats up a lot of space. This is with the classic technology - mounting GCR on the frame. According to the simplified frameless "leaves" a lot less space.

Drywall on the frame

You can align any wall in this way. First collect the frame. It is set in the same plane and serves as the basis for fixing drywall. Going by certain rules:


On this, the alignment of the walls is finished and it is ready either for wallpapering or plastering. As you can see, everything is much faster.

Gipsokaton on glue

It's still easier. Since the drywall sheet was originally even (if it was not kept standing and it was not bent), it can be used without any reason.

Diluted glue (on brick, concrete) or gypsum plaster (on relatively even) is applied on the walls. He is showered with small "lapdogs". The volume is chosen according to how concave or convex the walls are in this place.

Then they take a sheet of drywall, lean it against a wall, level it in a plane using a level, pressing it down with pressure or a fist if necessary (do not break it).

After placing the sheet smoothly, smear the edges with a putty, apply glue to the next piece. So collect the wall. To keep such plaster better, after the glue or putty has dried (24 hours or more), screw the drywall to the main wall (with screws or dowels depending on the type).

Everything is easy, except for the fact that it is very easy to "mess up". Everything is done with a minimum of stops, and to get drops with this method really is a couple of trivia. However, if you need to quickly align the wall, you can try to do so.

In the houses of the old Soviet-built walls, a special flatness, unfortunately, does not always differ. In most cases, their surface is covered with bumps and pits, has cracks or chips. At the same time, their very plane often often significantly departs from the vertical or horizontal. Of course, the rooms with such walls do not look very attractive. Before pasting with wallpaper, painting or, for example, before finishing with decorative plaster, the surface of the enclosing structures in such apartments must be corrected. How to align the walls? The answer to this question, of course, many homeowners would like to know. Correction of surfaces with defects can be made using different materials.

Two basic techniques

Align the walls in the room in our time in two main ways:

  • dry;
  • raw

In the first case, the alignment of the walls under the wallpaper or decorative plaster is most often done with the help of drywall. Also, the dry correction technology may involve the use of plywood, lining or PVC plates. When using a crude leveling technique, different types of plaster are usually used.

What are the types of mixtures

Such materials for leveling walls are supplied to the market usually in bags in a dry form. Before use, they must be diluted with water in an amount determined by the instructions for use. Plastering may be used to level the walls:

  • gypsum;
  • cement;
  • clay;
  • acrylic;
  • silicate.

Advantages and disadvantages of gypsum compositions

The initial mass of materials of this type is a very fine powdered dry mixture. The answer to the question of how to level the walls in the apartment, gypsum plaster is very good. The composition of it, among other things, includes all sorts of plasticizers. And so it falls on the wall, it is very smooth.

With use of such plaster alignment of concrete walls or brick can be made. Do not use such mixtures mainly only in very wet areas - saunas, bathrooms, swimming pools, etc. Also, it is not allowed to use plaster to level the facades of buildings.

The main advantages of plasters of this type are:

  • high degree of elasticity;
  • excellent adhesion to the treated surface.

Also to the advantages of gypsum plaster masters include its fine texture. Alignment of the walls under the wallpaper using such mixtures has the advantage that at the final stage in this case it is not necessary to apply a finishing putty. Another undoubted advantage of such plasters is the rapid maturation. Proceed to pasting the walls, leveled plaster mix, if necessary, you can in a week.

The disadvantages of the compositions of this variety are primarily their high cost. Leveling the walls with plaster plaster is usually quite expensive. Means of this type are worth about one and a half to two times more expensive than cement. Also, cons of mixtures of this type include a very short period of viability. Prepared gypsum mix should be used on average within 45 minutes. Of course, such a short period of "life" makes the work with the plaster of this variety is not particularly convenient.

The best brands of gypsum mixes

Of course, when choosing this type of plaster, like any other, first of all you should pay attention to the brand of the manufacturer. The most popular plaster mixes in our country are:

  1. "Founds". Plaster of this brand can remain viable up to 90 minutes. It costs about 250-300 rubles. for the bag.
  2. Knauf. This manufacturer supplies the Russian market a very high quality plaster mix "Rotband". A bag of such plaster costs about 400 rubles. Alignment of the walls of "Rotband" - the procedure is not particularly difficult. The viability of this mixture can be maintained for one and a half hours. In addition, it has a high degree of plasticity.
  3. "Eunice". Such mixtures after cooking should be developed within 50 minutes. They cost about 300 rubles. for the bag.

Pros and cons of cement formulations

It is this material most often serves as an answer to the question of how to align the walls inside or outside the room. On the market today supplied two main varieties of such plasters. For leveling surfaces can be used as a cement-lime mixture, and cement-sand.

On the walls of both of these types of plaster lay no worse than plaster. At the same time, the cement leveling mixture costs much less. Such a plaster is the best answer to the question of how to level the walls in the bathroom. For wet rooms it fits just fine.

The only thing that cement plaster loses plaster, is not too smooth texture. After using such a mixture, it is usually necessary to additionally apply a finishing material. Another disadvantage of cement plaster in comparison with plaster is a long maturation period. To proceed to the final decoration of the walls, aligned with its use, is possible only after about a month.

The best manufacturers of cement mixes

Compositions of this type, like plaster, are supplied to the domestic market by many companies. But the most popular in our country are considered plaster:

  • cement-lime "Founding Starwell-21";
  • cement and limy Polimin ShV 1;
  • cement-sand "Vetonit TT".

A mixture of "Starwell" can be used to align the walls not only indoors, but also outside. There is such a plaster about 5.9 dollars per bag weighing 25 kg. Mix Polimin SHV 1 is allowed to use only indoors. The maximum allowable thickness of the leveling layer when using both of these types of plaster is 20 mm. The price of a mixture Polimin ShV 1 is about $ 3.6.

The compositions "Vetonit TT" may be used for leveling walls inside buildings and facades. They can be applied to the surface with a layer up to 3 cm. Such a plaster is worth about 9 dollars for 25 kg.

How to align the walls outside: acrylic compositions

Facades of buildings, therefore, are most often leveled with cement plaster. However, sometimes acrylic blends are used for this purpose. Such materials are more expensive, but they give a much more durable leveling layer. Such a finishing composition is made on the basis of an aqueous solution of acrylic. The main advantages of this type of plaster are:

  • elasticity;
  • good degree of heat and sound insulation;
  • frost resistance;
  • usability.

The disadvantages of this type of plaster, as well as gypsum, include a short period of viability. Also, such a mixture has earned not very good consumer reviews and for not a particularly high degree of vapor permeability. The walls covered with plaster of this type, unfortunately, simply cease to “breathe”. They attribute to minuses mixtures of this kind and the fact that after drying they can accumulate static stress and attract various kinds of garbage to themselves.

The best brands of acrylic blends

The most popular producers of such plasters in Russia, as well as gypsum ones, are “Osnovit”, “Vetonit” and “Knauf”. Also often for the alignment of facades are used plaster brand "Ceresite". Such mixtures are supplied to the market usually already in finished form. Dilute them with water is not necessary. It is convenient to work with them, but the plasters of this type are more expensive than plaster and cement ones. Therefore, they are usually used only for the correction of walls that have only minor defects.

Advantages and disadvantages of silicate mixtures

Alignment of the walls for painting or any other type of decorative finish using such material can be done both outside and inside the room. But most often silicate plaster, like acrylic, is used nevertheless to finish the facades. Such materials are based on silicone resin. They also include liquid potassium glass, a water-repellent agent and mineral aggregates. Like acrylic, silicate plaster is expensive. And they use it, respectively, only for leveling walls with minor defects or as a finishing finish after a cement-sand mixture.

The advantages of silicate plasters include primarily:

  • elasticity and good adhesive properties;
  • high degree of strength;
  • resistance to various kinds of weathering.

The main disadvantage of such mixtures is considered to be a short period of viability.

Technology of raw wall leveling: key features

Acrylic and silicate plasters, therefore, in most cases are applied to the walls in a thin layer according to the usual technology - with a spatula or by means of a sprayer. Cement and gypsum mixtures are usually applied to the surface in a thick layer. Therefore, when working with them, among other things, special guides are used - beacons. The use of such additions allows you to get the most even surface. In this case, work is carried out in several stages:

  1. First, the old plaster layer is removed from the wall (if necessary).
  2. The surface is primed. Depending on what kind of plaster is supposed to be used in the future, a tool based on gypsum or cement is used for surface treatment.
  3. Mounted beacons. To align the walls, a special profile is usually used, which can be purchased at any building hypermarket. Beacons on a wall on cement or plaster solution on level are fastened. The distance between them should be slightly less than the length of the rule.
  4. Between the beacons fit the actual plaster itself. The wall can be treated with a solution both manually and, for example, with a sprayer.
  5. The mixture is carefully leveled by rule.

After the composition dries, the beacons are removed from the wall. For leveling the walls (sealing the remaining after the profile of the grooves) divorced a little more plaster or cement plaster. At the final stage, the surface is treated with a paint float and covered with a thin layer of fine-textured mixture.

Finishing putty: varieties

Formulations of this type can be:

  • cement (based on very fine sand or lime);
  • gypsum;
  • silicate;
  • acrylic.

For wet areas and facades, depending on the budget, cement plasters, acrylic or silicate, can be chosen. For the interior of the rooms are usually used gypsum. Also, in some cases, cement can, of course, be used for this purpose. Putties of this type are applied over plaster often using a special reinforcing paint net.

Drywall

Plasters are, of course, just a great answer to the question of how to level the walls. However, such tools can be used, unfortunately, mainly only to remove holes and bumps from the surface. More serious defects in the form of deviations from the plane by means of a crude technique are quite difficult to fix, and sometimes impossible at all. After all, put plaster compositions on the surface is allowed only not too thick.

Some disadvantage of the raw technology is the fact that with its use, leveling can be mainly done only on concrete or brick walls. For wood, such materials are usually not used.

To eliminate serious defects of the walls, as well as to level paved or chopped surfaces, the crude technique is thus not suitable. In this case, another correction method is usually used - dry. The walls with this technology are simply sheathed along the frame with some kind of sheet material. Types of finishes in this case can be used different. But most often for this purpose is applied all the same drywall.

Actually sheets GKL for the correction of walls can be used in two main varieties:

  • ordinary;
  • moisture resistant.

The second type GCR differs from the first primarily in color. Moisture resistant sheets have a greenish tint. They, for example, are an excellent answer to the question of how to align the walls in the bathroom. Manufactured by industry in our time and refractory gypsum. Sheets of this variety can withstand not only very high temperatures, but even open fire (within an hour). Such a drywall is very expensive, and therefore it is used mainly only for leveling the surfaces of stoves and fireplaces.

The best brand of drywall

The leading producers of gypsum in Russia are:

  • Lafarge.
  • Rigs.
  • Giproc.

The quality of all these brands of drywall differ quite good. But the Knauf sheets are still the most popular in our country. This company supplies the domestic market three main types of GCR:

  • wall thickness of 12.5 mm;
  • ceiling - 9.5 mm;
  • arched - 6.5 mm.

If desired, today you can buy as usual sheets of this manufacturer 2500 x 1200 mm, and non-standard. The width of the latter can be 600-1500 mm, length - 1500-4000 mm, and thickness - 6.5-24 mm.

Plasterboard finishing technology

Any special preparation of the walls when using GCR is not required. Surfaces in this case are usually simply cleaned of dirt and dust. Next, a special aluminum or steel profile is mounted on the wall using a level. Actually drywall itself is attached to it with the help of special design dowels with plastic wide heads. Fix sheets plasterboard in the process of installation so that between them do not form cruciform seams.

At the final stage, the plasterboard surface can either be covered with wallpaper, or it can be treated with a thin layer of plaster. Of course, often used for finishing plasterboard and finishing putty.

Molded, plywood and plastic panels

Such materials are also usually used for large deviations of surfaces from the horizontal or vertical. In addition, this finish can be used when the walls need not only to align, but also to insulate.

In the latter case, timber is usually used to assemble the framework for the material. It can be mounted on a wall both vertically and horizontally. In fact, for insulation between the bars of the frame, slabs of mineral wool or polystyrene foam are subsequently installed. Then a vapor barrier film is sewn on top, and the leveling material itself is placed on top of it.

The question of how to level the walls is given by many apartment owners who have gathered to make repairs themselves. Not so long ago, the range of materials for leveling the walls was not great. Today, the situation in the market of building materials has changed dramatically, however, there are only 2 methods for eliminating irregularities on surfaces:

  • their facing GCR;
  • plastering with building mixtures.

These ways of leveling the walls have both positive and negative sides. Those who prefer drywall do not have to deal with the time-consuming process of preparing walls for plastering. It is enough for them to close up the cracks and fix the crate for the sheets on the walls. In addition, under the GKL you can hide any communication. However, using sheet materials to align the walls, homeowners significantly reduce its area.

A similar problem does not arise when leveling walls with building mixtures, but the process itself is laborious. Surfaces for plastering need careful preparation. On the walls you need to fix beacon profiles, based on which, the rule will distribute the plaster on the surface. In addition, mixtures for leveling walls are often unable to cope with too large irregularities. However, those who decided to make the alignment of the walls "Rotband", it will be easier to cope with the task than the builders, using in the work of other compositions.

Characteristics of the mixture "Rotband"

"Rotband" - gypsum plaster, which has a number of advantages over other mixtures. She is:

  • excellent contact with most surfaces;
  • possesses high plasticity;
  • not prone to cracking and delamination;
  • has a relatively small weight;
  • dries quickly;
  • practically does not sit down;

The disadvantages of the mixture for leveling walls include:

  • high price;
  • the inability to use in rooms with high humidity;
  • poor adhesion layers "Rotband" with each other.

True, the last drawback is eliminated if prior to applying the next layer the previous one is treated with a special primer.

When plastering with “Rotband”, the same tool is used as with other mixtures:

  • trowels;
  • putty knife;
  • grater;
  • rule of

Surface preparation

Before you start leveling the walls of the "Rotband", they need to prepare. From them you need to remove:

  • wallpaper;
  • old paint;
  • dust, dirt, grease stains;
  • exfoliating plaster fragments.

At this stage, a tool such as is used;

  • brushes;
  • spatulas;
  • hammer and chisel.

Finally, the remaining dust is removed from the walls with a vacuum cleaner or a wet brush. Significant cracks are best sealed with cement-sand mortar. After that, the surface must be treated with a primer "Betonkontakt" or "Grundirmittel". The latter is manufactured by Knauf, therefore, it is most compatible with Rotband.

First you need to take a rule and check the condition of the wall. If the walls are sufficiently smooth, with differences of no more than 5-7 mm, they can be leveled without installing beacons. Using a tool such as a trowel, “Rotband” is applied to the surface as a putty.

In other cases, you have to install lighthouses. Immediately I must say that it is better to purchase plastic profiles that can be left in the wall after plastering. Metal beacons (even galvanized) will begin to corrode over time, and rusty spots will surely appear through the wallpaper. It is possible to put the beacons of steel safely, if the wall will be later pasted over with tiles.

Before installing the beacons on the wall with a spatula applied "slides" of gypsum plaster. The distance between them in the vertical row should be about 30 cm. The longer the rule, the greater the distance between the “cakes” horizontally, but in any case it should be slightly less than the length of the device, since the tool will rest on adjacent lighthouses.


At first it is better to install beacons closest to the corner parts of the room. They need to be pressed into the "hills" and check the vertical level or plumb. Between them, you should pull 2-3 threads and, focusing on the cords, install the remaining profiles. Next, you need to additionally check the plane, applying to the beacons (perpendicular to them) the building level or rule.

Plastering "Rotband"

To obtain a quality mixture, you must follow the manufacturer's recommendations for its preparation.

It is best to prepare the solution using a tool such as a construction mixer or a perforator (a powerful drill) with a special nozzle. The finished mixture should be worked out within half an hour.

Trowel need to apply the solution between the lighthouses. Leading the rule on them, you should distribute the solution on the wall. Surface leveling needs to start from the bottom. Excess solution is removed from the fixture with a spatula and put into the container. In the remaining indentations, a solution is again laid, and the rule passes through unaligned areas again. In the corners of the room for plastering it is better to use an angled trowel.


If necessary plastering in several layers, a new layer is applied after the previous solidification. Before re-plastering the dried layer is primed. In addition, cross-cut incisions are made on it. In case of multi-layer plastering, the rule is used only for finishing alignment. The main tool for applying "Rotband" in the preliminary plastering of the surface is a trowel. The leveling process is completed in 2-3 hours after plastering by rubbing the surface with a float moistened with water.

On the simplicity of working with "Rotband"

It should be noted that even the most distant from the profession of a builder will be able to level the walls in an apartment with the Rotband mix. Having received minimal experience with gypsum plaster, the master will be able to create a surface that is ready for finishing with almost any material.

Related posts:

Many people would like to see their home beautiful and cozy. Smooth walls - the key to success! Consider how to correctly align the walls with their own hands. We will separately consider the alignment algorithm for plasterboard, separately for plaster.

There is no sadder story in the world than a story about an apartment, the walls in which, with their bizarre bends, look more like a moving sea ... Surely many of you have seen something similar in life: in Soviet times, the delivery of objects was not always carried out according to all standards, and therefore tremendous opportunities for self-expression.

Jokes jokes, but often look at such art absolutely no desire. It is necessary to level the long-suffering walls!

What to choose: plaster or drywall?

Surely, even a person who is far from “building affairs” knows that there are two main ways of refining curved walls: plaster and drywall. How to choose a method suitable for your case?

Making a choice is not so difficult. First, the degree of curvature of the walls should be established. To do this, use the so-called fixing. Approximately at the level of the ceiling, departing at a distance of about 30-40 centimeters from the corner, they drive in a nail. He should speak about 25-30 millimeters. A plumb line is fastened to it (string or twine), which in the lower part of the wall is again attached to the nail.

In both cases, the cord must be attached strictly behind the nail head, in order to avoid errors in the measurement of curvature. Measure out in three or four places (distance from the wall to the cord). The greater the run-up in numbers, the more plaster will go and the more expensive it will be to level the wall with it. However, you should not be guided only by this. Let's take a look at the main pros and cons of each technology.

If the walls are so crooked that the waves are easy to spot, without resorting to hanging, then there are more arguments in favor of using drywall.

Advantages and disadvantages of stucco

The advantages of plaster

  • Firstly, it is very durable. If you do everything “according to your mind”, then you can easily forget about the overhaul of the walls with a light heart for about thirty years.
  • Secondly, a well-plastered wall does not impose any restrictions on hanging furniture, it is durable and reliable. There are no cavities under the plaster, and therefore a sudden invasion of mice or the formation of a mold plantation does not threaten you.

Disadvantages of stucco

  • Work "wet", often requires machining of walls. As a result - a lot of waste, in the case of the ninth floor (and the lack of a freight elevator) is highly undesirable.
  • Work takes a lot of time, requires certain skills.
  • As we have said, a strongly uneven wall will require a large amount of plaster mix. Considering that they are not cheap at all now, for a limited budget such repairs can become overwhelming.

Advantages and disadvantages of drywall

Advantages of drywall

  • Work "dry", it is carried out very quickly. If properly organize the process, waste is generated at a minimum.
  • With the help of drywall, you can bring to the mind, without spending its annual salary even a wall, the degree of curvature of which exceeds 30 degrees.
  • If you want to see the exquisite forms of wall niches, dream of LED lighting and other “delights”, then drywall is definitely your choice.
  • Finally, using noise insulation and thermal insulation (the same basalt wool, for example), you can significantly increase the comfort of your home.

Drywall Disadvantages

  • Firstly, with large “dungeons”, the possibility of hanging furniture becomes very doubtful, and you will probably have to forget about heavy framed paintings.
  • For gypsum plasterboard (in rural conditions) mice love to settle, and if the wall is wet, then the formation of mold and mildew colonies is possible.
  • When using this method, the internal volume of the room suffers.

So, what to choose?

So. If you are interested in fast repair, want to make your home more beautiful through wall niches, or you need to hide a bunch of wires and other communications, then drywall is an excellent choice. The same applies to situations where the walls are very curved (far from the fact that the plaster will generally hold onto them), additional insulation and / or insulation of the room is required.

Indeed, it is better to improve the “scary” walls with gypsum plasterboard: less labor costs, and from a financial point of view it is more profitable.

Plaster - the choice of those who are not afraid of large quantities of construction waste, long duration of work, their relative complexity and considerable cost (especially in the case of hiring professional workers). The bonus is the exceptional durability of the coating; even an accumulative boiler can be hung on such walls, not to mention furniture. In addition, the plaster does not "eat up" the internal volume (however, it still depends on the characteristics of the walls), and modern mixtures allow you to create a very interesting texture.

We hope that you were able to determine the method. And now we will consider the stages of work and the required materials.

How to align the walls with plaster on the beacons in 3 stages?

What is required for plastering walls?

First, we list the main tools:

  • You can not do without a punch that will delight the hearing of neighbors.
  • The mixer is necessary (as a last resort, the nozzle on a drill will go also).
  • Spatula, trowel and grater, where do without them!
  • Plumb.
  • Hammer and Trojan (steel chisel).
  • Lighthouses (wooden or metal slats).
  • Rules (emphasis on the penultimate syllable). Need for leveling the layer of plaster on the wall.
  • Grid plaster and metal (if the curvature of the wall exceeds 20-30 mm).

Finally, you will need a ready-made plaster mix, or the required amount of cement with sand, if you do it yourself. Do not do without a primer.

Stage 1: Preparing the walls for work

To make the solution “clinging” better to the surface, it is necessary to deepen the joints in the masonry (if it is a brick wall) by about 10 mm. Some masters advise to leave the "flow" on the clutch, but they often interfere. In a word, they are better for cleaving. If you are going to plaster a concrete wall, it is advisable to make notches on its surface. Their length - not less than 150 mm, depth - about 3 mm. As tools for such work using a conventional hammer and trojan. Experts advise to make at least 200 notches per square meter of surface. Then the wall is thoroughly cleaned with a steel brush and lightly sprayed with water.

It is desirable to knock down all large flows. Cracks and chips - putty putty. If a thick layer of plaster is needed, a metal mesh is pre-filled on the wall. Attach it to the dowels (step about 20 cm). Plastic struts are placed between the wall and the grid, focusing on the results of fixing (to achieve perfect integrity). Worst of all, when you need to prepare a wooden wall. At first, the boards are slightly crushed in order to avoid their deformation. Next on the wall stuffed shingles or all the same metal mesh. Consider that it is fixed, having previously made wooden or plastic gaskets.

After that, the walls are carefully primed using deep penetration compounds. Concrete lintels are treated with special mortars (“Betocontact”, for example), and then covered with plaster nets. Before starting work directly, the floors are swept from debris and plastic wrap, paper or other similar material is laid on them, so that they do not work hard in the sweat of their faces, scrubbing frozen plaster.

Stage 2: Preparation of the solution

It is important to remember that the result of all your work depends on the correctness of the preparation of the solution, so we advise you to take this stage of work as seriously as possible.

First, all the materials used (with the exception of ready-made mixtures) are sieved through sieves with cells no more than 3x3 mm (maximum 5x5 mm). All lumps, impurities and debris must be removed! To mix the composition, you need to use a container of a suitable volume so that the mixture does not spill out. The mixer is brought to a completely homogeneous state, and then removed and looked: if the plaster solution immediately drains, add more binder. If it sticks too much, put more aggregate and add water.

Preparation of cement-sand mortar

Dry sand and cement are poured into the container and mixed thoroughly. Gradually add water and stir until a creamy mixture is formed. If you need a solution with a quick setting - add a little PVA glue. To slow down the freezing, you can use any liquid dishwashing detergent.

Cement-lime mortar

Lime is placed in a plastic container (!), Water is added up so that the liquid covers the layer of lime. Cover the mixture with the lid, wait for the reaction to end (gently!). Strain the resulting substance through gauze, soak it for a day. Prepare a mixture of cement and sand (using the table), and use a lime mortar for dilution.

Mortar

As in the past case, you first have to extinguish the lime with water. Adding a little sand, begin to actively grind the mixture, getting rid of lumps. Gradually drain the remaining sand, continuing to stir continuously. Add water if necessary. Important! Use lime mortar is possible only on the day of manufacture!

As for the finished mixtures (in powder), they should be diluted, strictly following the instructions!

Stage 3: Plastering the walls

Having dealt with the preliminary preparation, let's talk about the course directly plastering. After the walls were covered with a primer, lighthouses are attached to the plaster mortar. Of course, this should be done by a plumb line, controlling the correctness of the installation level. Then on the lighthouses smear "skis." This is the name of the guide strip from the plaster mix you use.

How to make the distance between the beacons? It all depends on the width of the rules you use, but there are a couple of universal tips. First, the step between them should be slightly less than the width of the rule. Secondly, at home you should not use the rules of more than one and a half meters, since working with them is corny hard.

If the wall is very curved, first fix the metal mesh. They do this with the help of dowels, maintaining a distance between them of 15-20 cm. We do not forget about gaskets (see above). We put on the grid the first layer of plaster. Laying is carried out using a trowel. Align the layer with the rule. After that, wait until the first layer is completely dry, and then repeat the process, laying the final coating.

In the case when the grid is not required, the plaster also fits into two layers. The first - light "blotches" with a slightly uneven surface. After they dry, we put the second layer and align it with the rule. To finally level the wall, the second layer (until it is dry), use a grater. It is pressed tightly against the wall, and, making circular motions, we level all the defects found. If there is such a need, you can impose a third layer.

Features of the cement-sand mixture

In this case, you must use the mounting grid, which is attached to the wall all the same dowels. The first layer is simply “rubbed” with a grater. After it is completely dry, “skis” are rubbed on it. The second layer is applied with a trowel. Attention! This is a very complicated and tedious process, so morally prepare for it in advance. Having completely covered the surface of the wall with plaster, carefully align it with the rule.

To see all this "live", we offer to view the thematic video.

Align the walls with drywall yourself

Having dealt with plastering, we turn to the use of drywall. First, list the tools that we need:

  • Metal profiles or wooden beams.
  • Screws for wood or metal.
  • Screwdriver or drill.
  • Level, plumb and square.
  • The knife is construction.

Do not forget about the little things, like a hammer, jigsaw, tape measure or measuring tape.

Stage 1: Wall Preparation

As in the past, it will not be possible to do without prior work. First you need to carefully remove all the old coating. This is especially true of falling off plaster. Keep in mind that drywall itself will "eat" a lot of internal space, so you should use any opportunity to reduce the "dead" volume! Priming of walls is carried out at will. But it is highly desirable to cover it with antiseptic agents. You remember that we talked about mold? Do not forget to mark on the ceiling and floor the line along which the border of the new “wall” will pass.

Stage 2: Frame Installation

Wood or metal?

It is not so rare to find the opinion that a wooden beam is perfect for leveling walls with drywall. In principle, this statement is true, but not in all cases. It should be remembered that wood is extremely unstable material. If the humidity in the room is high (bathroom or kitchen), the use of a bar is contraindicated. No matter how carefully the finishing is done, the moisture will gradually penetrate the tree, contributing to its swelling and deformation.

In the most unpleasant cases, the wall may well "lead", and all your work will go down the drain. So if you need maximum reliability, we strongly recommend using a metal profile.

Frame Mounting

This is the most important part of the job! If you make it "carelessly", then nothing good will come of it. We measure the height of the walls. Installation begins with fixing the frame on the ceiling and floor using the UD profile (guide base), securing it with dowels. The step depends on the size of the room, but it is not worth making it more than 30-40 cm.

When the “frame” is ready, take the CD profile onto which the drywall is directly attached. Important! Edge - to the wall, the wide part - into the room! It is very important not to confuse. Fasten profile with screws. It is very important to use those that are specifically designed for metal. The first transverse profile is placed close to the wall. Step - exactly 600 mm. Important! The distance should not be measured from the edges of the profile, but from the middle. The fact is that the standard width of a single sheet of drywall is 1200 mm, and therefore with this method you will definitely get into the center and edges of the sheet when it is attached to the frame. Of course, it is also necessary to fix one cross member at the edge of the opposite wall, even if the distance of 600 mm cannot be sustained.

To make the frame as reliable as possible, perforated hangers should be used. These are ordinary galvanized steel strips. In the center there is a stiffener and the edges are perforated. They need to be bent in the shape of the letter "P", fixing the middle to the wall. Important! Such suspensions need to be screwed under each (!) Vertical profile. Perforated "ears" are attached to the profile itself. If the standard height of a drywall sheet (2500 mm) is less than the height of the walls, then the inserts are fixed only from above or below. The jumpers between the UD racks are made from all the same CD profile.

Stage 3: Mounting the Drywall Sheets

The hardest part is left behind. Sheets are attached to the finished frame with 35 mm black standard screws. Use a screwdriver, carefully twisting them flush. The sheet should be fixed in 15 cm increments along the perimeter, screwing in the screws in the central part (if necessary, at least 4-5 per sheet). Many made let out drywall lined so it is not necessary to run with a ruler.

To fill the openings formed in difficult places, cut out the drywall pieces corresponding to their shape. The easiest way to use for this purpose is a construction knife. Remember that cuts should be made along (!) The sheet. After that GVL break and carefully cut the layer of paper on the opposite side. Basically, that's all. Now you can start finishing. In the case of drywall, it is of two types - painting and glueing wallpaper. With this you can certainly figure it out on your own, but you need to tell more about the putty.

The final touch: putty walls

Drywall putty for painting

It is very important to check all the screws first. They should be screwed no deeper than 5 mm from the surface of the sheet. If this is not the case, the screw is twisted to the required depth, and then another one is fastened next to it. In places where solid sheets docked with cut pieces, you need to slightly expand the seams. This is done for better adhesion of the composition. Before plastering it is extremely important that the plasterboard surface is properly primed!

It is very important to use exactly the primer compositions that are specifically designed for the treatment of sheets GVL. After work, wait at least 12 hours.

Getting to putty seams. Layout gypsum plaster is ideal. It is very important not to save on it, since there are cases when substandard compounds fall off in pieces a couple of weeks after application. It is spread on the surface of the sheets with a spatula, while ensuring that the seams are flush with the surface. The seam is immediately closed with serpyanka, and then another layer of plaster is applied. It is important to hold it with a spatula so that it gently presses into the seam.

We check the correctness of the application by applying a wide spatula across the seam: if there are no gaps, then you did everything correctly. As carefully as possible we close up the holes from the screws. We are waiting for the day, and then grind the surface "null". Ground the wall again.

Full surface coating

This stage is the most difficult. It is necessary to apply several layers, each of which must be properly dried. It is very important to use the same putty as in the previous step, as this ensures the absence of cracks. At least three layers should be made. The topcoat is dried during the day, and then polished very well. To do this, use a bar on which the sanding grid is tensioned. You can apply and sandpaper, but it will have to constantly change.

After completion of the work, visual inspection is carried out, looking for the remaining defects. If any, remove them with the help of the same putty. The walls again ground. And only after the drying of this primer layer, the surface is completely ready for applying paint.

Drywall putty for wallpaper

Immediately, we’ll warn you that you don’t have to fill the entire wall, as this operation affects the quality of the repair itself rather weakly. But! If the wallpaper is thin, then through them technical inscriptions on a sheet of GVL can shine through. But the main reason why the drywall under the wallpaper is still better zashpatlevat, somewhat different. The thing is that sooner or later you will have to change the wallpaper. If the GVL sheets were not puttied, you will tear off the old coating, not only with pieces of drywall paper, but even with pieces of gypsum itself.

After you have covered the wall with a primer (according to the method described above), you have closed the joints and the heads of the self-tapping screws with a putty, it is primed again. Important! At the second stage, two or three layers of putty are applied, each of which (after drying) is again ground. The final layer is dried, ground and again covered with primer. The thoroughness of grinding is inversely proportional to the thickness and texture of the wallpaper used: the thicker they are, the less time can be spent on sanding.

To better visualize the work, watch the video.