The beauty of annual flowers is not only in their beauty, but also in the fact that new beds are made of them every year, because there is nothing permanent in the world. It is quite another thing with perennials, no matter how beautiful they are, sometimes you want to change their location, even luxurious roses occasionally want to change or simply re-design the flower garden. This is where a rose transplant appears on the agenda. When to transplant roses to another place, and can it be done? Of course, you can transplant roses to a new place, but you need to know when and how to do it, so as not to harm the vulnerable beauty.

Causes of transplantation

There may be several reasons why it is necessary to change the place of growth of a rose, except for the whim of the host. If the rosary is in one place for many years, the soil is depleted under it, and the pests, on the contrary, become more and more persistent every year, and it is more difficult to prevent or cure diseases at the very beginning. This reason is not so respectful as it is legitimate, which underlies the law of crop rotation.

People are constantly improving something in their areas, when redevelopment it may turn out that the rose has fallen into the shadow of the building or the tree in the neighborhood has grown so much that it has blocked flowers from the sun. Transplant is easier, of course, a rose.

Rose bushes also have a habit of growing, so it turns out that after a few years after planting, you need to dig up all the bush or part of it, so that the flower garden will continue to exist. Or, as a result of the disease, a bush must be thrown out to protect all other plants, and then a new adult rose will be planted in its place.

It may be that after two years it becomes clear that the wrong place was chosen for the flower queen, and if not transferred to another, she would die. And it happens that the ants have settled nearby, to fight the aphids, which they are constantly dragging to the site, tired, so the owners think how to transplant a rose, choosing the lesser of evils.

There may be several reasons, but the result is one - you have to think about when it is better to replant the roses in order to get a good result, and not just the hassle of the owner and the stress of the plant.

Video “Proper transplant”

From the video you will learn how to properly transplant bushes.

When is it best to replant

Roses are planted at about the same time as young saplings are planted in the ground. In the spring, they do it before the buds wake up, but the earth should not only thaw, but warm up enough to take a new plant.

It is likely that it will be late with flowering, or perhaps it should not be allowed to bloom, it is necessary to remove the buds so that the bush grows strong in a new place, first forms the updated root system, forms new shoots. Transplanting a rose in spring, we do not limit it to the time, ahead of the whole growing season.

Transplanting roses to another place in the fall should take place 3-4 weeks before frosts, the bush should take root, grow new roots, only then it will overwinter well. Replanting roses in the fall, where October will bring frosts, is best in September, and in the south it is done in mid-October.

Autumn transplantation is good because the temperature of the earth and air is optimal for fast survival: the sun does not burn anymore, but the air is warm, the ground is damp enough, even the autumn rains do not damage, but help the roots to adapt to new conditions. The plant no longer needs to bloom or form new shoots, it can give all the power to grow new roots.

Summer is the least acceptable time to change habitat. But circumstances may be such that an adult rose will have to be urgently replaced, even in summer. This can be done, but it will take a little more effort, and the result will be less predictable compared to the beginning and end of the growing season. It will be difficult not only to transfer the rose, but to create conditions for it for the first time — you will have to cover it from the sun, moisturize it more often or, on the contrary, cover it from excessive rain. But nothing is impossible - even a rose may well take root in a new place in the middle of summer, if the transplanted bush receives enough care.

How to transplant

It is possible to transplant a rose in the fall or spring, but the main thing is to find a good place and create conditions that will please her, will contribute not only to quick adaptation, but also to comfortable growth and development. It is advisable not to place the plant under the wall of the house, so that water does not flow from the roof, and the roots do not rest on the foundation. A young tree planted nearby will soon become a source of enormous shade, and a too humid lowland will ruin the roots when it becomes a shelter of melt water. The new place should be, at least, not worse than the old one - sunny, open on the south side, protected from the north wind, slightly elevated. This may be the southern slope, it is important that the sun fell on him in the first half of the day, and the water did not linger.

Whenever the transplant itself takes place, the pit needs to be prepared two weeks before. It must be dug a little wider and deeper than the supposed root system along with an earthy ball. It is believed that the roots occupy the area delineated by the width of the aerial part of the bush. Here it is worth being guided by, preparing a new pit. Digging it, you need to clear the ground from stones, roots of perennial weeds, too rough clods of earth. Then the bottom is loosened, and the earth is mixed with fertilizers, it is good to add compost or humus, some mineral fertilizers and wood ash. If the ground is dry, then it is worth watering it so that the fertilizer mixes well with the soil. This is how a prepared pit should stand for at least 2 weeks.

When the time comes for the transplant itself, you need to prepare sackcloth, thick film or some other material to transport a huge earthy clod with the plant, as well as scrap that will help him get it. Along the perimeter of the bush, even slightly receding away from the most sprawling shoots, you need to dig a groove wide with a spade bayonet. Gradually deepening this groove, you need to dig around the entire bush to the desired depth. In grafted roses, the root has the shape of an overturned pyramid with a dominant stem; it can grow up to one or even one and a half meters deep. In the root-bearing plants, the roots spread more in width, and grow to a depth of 50 - 80 cm in depth. This must be borne in mind when digging up the plant.

Most likely, it will not be possible to dig up a bush so as not to damage any root. Not scary, just need to try to reduce losses to a minimum, small roots in a new place will grow back. When the bush is trimmed enough to be removed, the shoots need to be shortened (especially if it happens in the fall), cut out all the flowers and weak branches, and the remaining ones should be carefully tied to facilitate further manipulations. Then you can use scrap iron as a lever, take the root along with an earthy clod, put it on a cloth (or film), transfer it to a new place. If you have to transport for a long time, then you need to moisten the fabric with the ground.

Then the bush is placed in a new pit, it is watched that the root neck is 3 to 8 cm lower than the ground level, gradually bury the roots, tamp the ground, water it, fill it with higher ground or mulch with peat (it can be compost).

If the bush cannot be removed with an earthy lump, which may well occur, since the ground under the roses is usually loose, then the roots need to be inspected, removed damaged or rotted (dried out), slightly shortened before planting. The appearance of the roots and the whole plant will tell you if you need to disinfect. If necessary, the roots can be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate or iron sulphate.

Landing can be done dry or wet. In the first case, the prepared ground is piled on the bottom of the pit, the bush is lowered to the desired depth (they monitor the level of the root collar relative to the ground level), straighten the roots and carefully fall asleep the ground. Then the soil around the bush tamped, watered. The bush is mulched. In the second case, first pour a bucket of water into the pit with a drug that stimulates root growth dissolved in it. Then the bush is lowered to the desired depth, the roots are filled up with prepared soil, tamped, watered, and mulched.

After planting, the shoots are untied, the bush is mulched. The first time it will have to shade from too strong sun, often moisten with warm water. If the landing took place in the fall, they no longer do re-cutting before hiding for the winter.

Video “Transplanting in the Fall”

From the video you will learn how best to transplant rose bushes in the autumn.

Roses are whimsical in care, so moving them to a new place or planting young shoots is worth the rules. Transplanting roses to another place is best in the fall one month before the onset of frost. During this period, the plant is preparing for wintering and will easily transfer the move.

If you plan to transplant roses in the spring, then it should be done before the buds swell on the bush. In the summer the worst thing to do is to transfer the bush to a new place, therefore, such manipulations are carried out in extreme cases.

    Show all

      Transplanting roses in the fall

    Rose bushes are whimsical, they require careful care, and their transplantation requires compliance with the rules in the selection of the soil, care of the root system and the choice of season for the "move."

    Depending on the region of Russia, the time for transplanting shrubs is different:

    • in the Middle Strip, October is best;
    • for the South of Russia, Moldova, Ukraine from October 15 to December 5;
    • for colder: Moscow region, the Urals - from the beginning of September during the month.

    Important! From the moment of planting a bush to a new place before the start of the first frosts should take at least a month.

    The roses transplanted in autumn should give young shoots and have time to settle down on a new place before winter. Before the onset of cold weather, they are covered with dry foliage, peat or sawdust.

    In the spring, after the onset of heat, transplanted plants grow the root system and form the crown of leaves. Shoots tolerate the spring cold and actively grow.

    When planting in the autumn, the roses moved to a new place will bloom simultaneously with the rest of the shrubs.

      Moving bushes in spring

    Spring transfer is carried out in the Moscow region from May 5 to 30, in the Middle Strip and warmer regions from April 20 and throughout May.

    The main rule for planting adult rose bushes in the spring is stable warm weather and soil temperature over +10. Roses are transplanted before the buds swell.

    It is necessary to replant bushes in the spring on a cloudy day or in the late afternoon.

    In spring, transplanted bushes require careful care: the soil should be moderately wet all the time, and the bush itself should be shaded with light material or branches from the sun.

    The bush planted in the spring will first build up the root system, and only then will it direct its efforts to the development of the shoots. It will bloom later and less abundantly than the rest of the bushes.

      Is it possible to transplant roses in summer?

    In the summer of a rose transplanted only in case of emergency. 2 hours before the start of work the bush is watered abundantly. You need to move the plant on a cloudy day or in the evening.

    For roses planted in summer, correct, moderate watering and strong shading are important. The plant should always be in the penumbra, regardless of the time of day.

    Such a rose bush will be sick for a long time and slowly build up the root system. At the same time, young shoots and new buds must be cut to allow the plant to stick.

      Shrub transplant sequence

    In order for a rose to take root in a new place, one must follow the rules of digging up a bush, preparing the soil for planting and caring for the plant afterwards.

    Observance of all the rules of transplantation will significantly increase the chances of a plant for successful planting in a new place at any warm season.

      How to prepare the soil?

    At the selected site should prepare in advance the planting hole. Soil preparation will be optimal from autumn for spring planting or from spring for autumn. If this is not possible, then it is right to do the work 14 days before the landing, or, in extreme cases, 2-3 days.

    The hole is made with dimensions of 60 X 60 cm and a depth of 80 cm. The larger the shrub, the larger the prepared pit should be (+ 10-15 cm to the width of the root). From the pits take out the earth in layers. The upper layer is mixed with humus or manure and lay on the bottom of the pit. The remaining earth can be used for composting.

    Further, fertile earth is poured into the seat and mixed with humus or ripened compost. Then the soil is watered once a week. And when you need to plant roses, then the top layer is raised and planted a bush.

    If a planting pit is prepared just before planting, then a layer of humus is placed on the bottom, and bone meal, ash and superphosphate are added to the garden (forest) ground.

    To lay in the fossa, it is desirable to use this mixture:

    • 1 bucket of land (forest);
    • 1/2 bucket of humus;
    • 1/2 bucket of sand;
    • 1/4 bucket clay;
    • 1/2 bucket of peat;
    • 1/2 bucket of sod land (meadow);
    • 1 cup of bone meal;
    • 1 cup of ash;
    • 1 handful of superphosphate.

    Components need to be well mixed and only then fall asleep at the bottom of the pit.

      Shrub preparation

    Before transplanting roses are pruned, which will allow the bush to grow the root system with minimal effort to forge the stems.   The degree of pruning depends on the type of bush:

    • shrub roses pruned to 20 cm;
    • shtambovye - 1/3 the length of the shoots;
    • curly - by 1/2.

    For a successful transplant, you must first carefully dig up the bush without damaging the root system.

Transplanting roses.

Often in the garden there is a need to transplant the plant, which can be caused by a number of reasons: the plant develops poorly in its permanent place, the place must be cleared due to construction, the plot is redeveloped and the like.

Transplantation is always traumatic for the plant, so you should make every effort to avoid damage to the root system. We recommend to adhere to the following order:

  1. Shovel to outline the circle of digging the bush in such a way as not to damage the main side roots.
  2. To dig a bush from all sides so that the lump with roots can be freely removed from the pit.
  3. Shovel the root ball with a shovel and turn it in the hole, putting the bush to the side.
  4. Remove the bush from the pit, put it on a spreading piece of fabric or film and wrap a clod in it so that the earth does not crumble during transportation; with the same purpose, in the evening, the rose bushes are well shed with water.
  5. Move the bush to the prepared landing pit, place it in the pit no deeper than it grew before the transplant.
  6. After planting, trim the bush and water it abundantly.

Propagation of roses.

Ways to breed roses.

  • the division of the bushes;
  • scions;
  • cuttings;
  • stem cuttings;
  • lignified cuttings.

Plants grown from rooted cuttings, layering and dividing the bush, are called root-rooted. In the case of the death of the aerial parts of the root collar, they form new shoots of the same variety. In grafted plants, in this case, rosehip shoots grow, as a result the bush “runs wild”.

Root-own roses have a shorter life span, they develop more slowly than those grafted, are less resistant to adverse environmental factors, and are low-resistant

The division of the bushes. The easiest way to breed. It is used for propagation of own-rooted roses (White, Wrinkled, French).

Divide bushes in the spring, after thawing of the soil. In our conditions it will be the end of April - the beginning of May. Before growing buds, overgrown bushes are dug out of the ground and cut into several parts with a sharp sheath or knife, so that each has roots and several shoots.

On delenkah, very long ones are carefully shortened and the roots damaged during digging are removed to a healthy place. They also shorten shoots, leaving 3-4 buds on each of them. Upper buds should be facing outwards or sideways. This is necessary for the proper formation of bushes. Small twigs cut out. Wounds are cleaned with a sharp knife. Dip the roots in a talker from a mixture of clay and mullein (or from only one clay) and plant the plants in a permanent place.

Fig. one   Branch scion.

Scions With their help, the park root-bearing roses of their own are propagated, capable of producing root shoots that form during the period of intensive growth and extend from the main shrub in the form of vertical shoots (Fig. 1). Early in the spring, after thawing of the soil, they are dug out, treated as in the previous case, and planted in another place.

Propagation of roses by layering.

Layers reproduce almost all types of roses. To do this, the shoots are bent down and attached with pegs to the loosened earth. Top poured a mixture of earth with humus or peat. Work is carried out in the spring, before bud break. By autumn, the layering root. In the spring of next year, they are separated from the parent plant and planted in a new place.

Fig. 2   Receiving otvodka.

Using them, you can get new bushes from both grafted and from own-rooted plants of various groups of roses. But especially this technique is convenient for breeding long-stemming climbing varieties (Fig. 2).

To obtain otvodkov use growing at the root of the cervix shoots. In early spring, they are bent down, laid into previously prepared shallow grooves, carefully pinned down and covered with loose, damp earth from above. The tops of the shoots are left outside and tied to the pegs, give them a vertical position. In places of contact of the layers with the ground, pre-sharp knife makes annular cuts of the bark, which causes an increased flow of nutrients to the cut and intensive formation of roots. The soil during the summer contain in a wet and friable state.

By autumn, the cuttings take root, but separate them from the parent plants next spring, and weak plants only after a year.

In our conditions, in most varieties of roses in winter, all branches that are above the snow cover die off. Therefore, in the fall, shoots designed to obtain cuttings gently bend, pin to the ground and sprinkle with peat. In the spring, after thawing of the soil, they are laid in the grooves and covered with earth.

Stem cuttings. This is the most common way to get own-rooted roses.

Lignified cuttings.

Fig. 3   Cuttings prepared for planting (left). Hardened cuttings (right).

Use finished growth and well-ripened smooth annuals 4-5 mm thick. They are harvested in the fall.

In the spring, cuttings are cut from them (Fig. 3) with a length of 10–12 cm and immediately immersed in water. Taking out of the water, they are planted in the soil and watered. Planted obliquely, almost completely buried in the ground.

Semilignified (green) cuttings (summer cutting).

In this case, the cuttings are harvested at the beginning of the lignification of the shoots. In roses, this coincides with the beginning of flowering. Use the middle part of semi-woody shoots in the flowering stage, but not the “fat” ones (Fig. 4).

Fig. four.   Propagation by semi-woody cuttings with 2-3 leaves:
1.   Cutting of cuttings from the shoot (in the beginning of flowering stage);
2 . Planting cuttings in a mixture of peat and sand;
3.   A small amount of cuttings can be planted in a regular pot and covered with a glass jar; 4.   Rooted cuttings.

Cuttings, cut from too green or heavily lignified shoots, take root worse.

Cuttings prepare a length of 7-10 cm with 2-3 leaves. In order to prevent excessive evaporation of moisture, the leaves are cut to 1/3 or 2/3 of their length (remove the upper part of the leaf plates), leaving 1-2 pairs of leaflets, the lower sheet is cut off.

The upper cut of the stalk should be straight and be 0.5–1 cm above the bud, the lower slanting (at an angle of 45 °) - just under the kidney itself.

The cuttings are planted on a bed at an angle of 45 °, then they are plentifully sprayed with water several times a day. Before planting, the cuttings are soaked in a “Heteroauxin” solution for 2 days. To preserve moisture from above, the cuttings are closed with plastic wrap or glass.

It is advisable to leave rooted cuttings of roses for wintering, covering with a small layer of insulating material. In two years they turn into developed seedlings.

In our conditions, good results can be achieved only when grafting in the period of the 1st bloom (June). Young plants rooted at this time have time to form a fairly good root system and get stronger by autumn. At later periods (July-August) weak roots are formed, and many cuttings do not give them at all.

Fig. five.   One leaf leaf rooting:
1.   Cutting cuttings;
2.   Landing;
3.   Cuttings in the greenhouse (the leaves should not touch the ground);
4.   Well-rooted cuttings.

It is most convenient to graft in picking boxes of 7-8 cm in height. For the best flow of water in the bottom, holes are made that cover the broken shards with the convex side up.

Then, a small layer (about 1 cm) of drainage is laid (broken brick, sand or small gravel with sand), 3-4 cm of light fertile earth are poured over it (1 part leaf, 2 sod and 2 sand) and 1.5-2 cm of well washed and calcined river sand.

Before planting the substrate is watered. Cooked cuttings are planted in the ground to such a depth that they can stand without falling while watering and spraying. It is not worth digging down more than 1.5-2 cm, as with a shallow planting, callus formation (formation of a new fabric on the cut) and roots are proceeding faster. Place the cuttings according to the scheme 6 × 3 cm.

Boxes with cuttings set in a shaded place, for example under the canopy of trees, and covered with plastic wrap, laid on the frames. The edges of the film sprinkled with earth or pressed boards.

Revolve cuttings 3-4 weeks. At this time, high humidity, optimal temperature (20 ... 22 ° C) and diffused sunlight are necessary. Humidity is maintained by spraying (1-2 times a day), abundant irrigation of the earth around the boxes and a dense cover with plastic wrap.

In order for callus and roots to form faster, the soil must be (2 ... 3 ° C) warmer than air. In the greenhouses for this purpose, special greenhouses are being built, on the bottom of which they are laid with water heating pipes. Some amateur flower growers instead use heated electric bulbs placed under the bottom of the distribution boxes. You can also put the boxes with planted cuttings in a greenhouse, heated by biological fuel. For this purpose, the greenhouse freed from seedlings is suitable in June. If it has cooled off by this time, then 2-3 days before grafting, it is interrupted with the addition of a certain amount of manure or refilled.

If the greenhouse is located in an open sunny place, then on hot days the greenhouse frames are covered with lattice wooden shields, matting or burlap, you can also whiten the glass. The air temperature is reduced by short periodic ventilation or watering of the wall material with cold water.

Planting periodically inspect, remove dead leaves and cuttings. After the formation of roots and the beginning of intensive growth, the number of sprays is gradually reduced, the greenhouse is aired more frequently and more continuously. Sideways greenhouse left vent. 2 weeks after the ripening of the frame is removed.

Further care is moderate watering, weeding, and, if necessary, in the fight against pests and diseases. Fertilizers, both organic and mineral, should not be applied.

In the 1st year, the cuttings have a weak and shallow root system. Therefore, in the winter they are best kept in the basement or cellar at a temperature of (0 to 5 ° C). To do this, young plants of the spring term cuttings (using woody cuttings) in the fall, before the onset of frost, dig, placed obliquely in small batches in a picking box and the roots fall asleep with damp earth. The leaves are removed from the plants beforehand, the undripened parts of the shoots are pruned, and the aerial parts are treated with a 2% (20 g per 2 l) solution of copper or iron sulphate.

Saplings from summer cuttings in distribution cabinets are left until spring. Before putting them in storage, leaves and non-ripened parts of the shoots are also removed and treated with vitriol.

In the basement boxes with rooted cuttings contribute to the onset of frost. The earth in boxes contain in moderately wet condition. In the spring, roses are planted on the ridge for growing or on a permanent place.

You can feed with mineral fertilizers only when the seedlings take root and start growing.

Many try to grow roses from cut flowers of a bouquet, but it turns out rarely.The fact is that semi-woody shoots are suitable for cuttings, on which buds are just beginning to form, and already woody ones are being sold.

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Is it possible to transplant a rose now so that the plant does not die in the cold? Do not even doubt, you can! True, it is best to do it in early spring or early autumn (until the end of September). And if it is late with the specified terms, the rose will not tolerate the winter and its root system will not have time to adapt to the new conditions.


   However, amateur growers sometimes not everything goes according to plan. And it happens that the rose has to be transplanted in the summer. Do not despair! Even now you can get a good result. True, it is necessary to sacrifice the flowering of this beauty and cut the bush stronger.

Cut or leave alone?

   If the bush is large, then the shoots should be left no longer than 50 cm, and if there are a lot of them, then thin out the vegetation, giving the bush a neat shape. If he is young and the shoots have not grown much yet, they still need to be cut and all buds and blooming flowers removed.

Prepare in advance

   It is better to carry out such a transplant in cloudy weather, after which the plant will have to be watered, sprayed and covered from the bright sun for a month.

You only need to take care of the planting hole in advance - fill it with fertilizers, which the rose likes, wait a little for the soil to settle.

Removing a bush from the ground with a large earthen clod is difficult, since the land in rosaries is often loose, but try to have the root system as hidden as possible in the ground. Do not strip the roots.

In order for the soil to stick to the roots, before digging out a rose, watering the bush abundantly, and to make it easier to work and do not prick the spikes, it is advisable to wrap the above-ground part with a rope or carefully put a bag on it.

Extract from soil

   Digging a rose should begin with a small groove around it, gradually making it deeper and deeper. When you can get to the base of the bush, the resulting earthen room can be wrapped with cling film, so the earth will not crumble. If when digging up long roots will interfere, they can be carefully chopped off, it will not weaken the plant, if you will then carefully look after it.

Then, under the base of the bush, you need to insert a strong lever, for example, a crowbar, and, pressing it, pull the rose out of the hole.

If in the future you plan to transport the rose over a long distance, then you need to wrap the roots with a wet cloth. If you are transplanting within your garden, then to the site of planting, drag a rose on a piece of thick plastic film and place it in the prepared pit.

Choosing a place

   At the new place, the rose should be at the same level relative to the surface of the earth, on which it grew before. If necessary, the pit should be deepened or, on the contrary, raised. After installing the bush, fill the hole in half and then remove the strapping on the root coma of the rose. Then pour it abundantly and wait until the water is absorbed. Then fill the pit completely with earth and pour water again. If the ground is slightly compacted, add some more soil and tramp it around the bush, so there will be no air voids around the roots.

Cut or break off?

   Quite often, beginner rose growers ask the same question: is it true that the buds should be broken off in the fall and not cut?

Not true. When pruning, the cut grows more easily than a ragged wound. But it is not so important - to cut or cut off. The main thing is to remove faded shoots in time. By pruning after the first wave of flowering usually means not just removing the flowering inflorescences, but also shortening the stem by 1/3 to a strong bud to stimulate the re-flowering of the bush. In the autumn of this can not be done.

Rejuvenating bushes

And what to do with roses that grow in one place for more than 15 years, do you need to update and replace them? Such varieties of roses as hybrid tea, grandiflora, polyanthaceae, miniature, floribunda, change in 10-15 years. But old bushes can be rejuvenated. Do it in the spring or early August.

What do you need? This is what expert advice gives: “Old bushes dig up, free the roots from the ground. All stems are shortened, leaving 15-25 cm from the root collar. After that, you need to remove dry, diseased and old thin shoots. Trim all small and large twigs growing inside the bush.

Then you should clean the root collar. Around her for the decade a lot of withered stumps from old stalks have accumulated. They need to be removed in any way: saw off, cut or scrape with a knife. Leaving only healthy shoots that have at least two buds.

Then the roots are put in order. Remove dry and gnarled, and long shortened to 20-25 cm. Prepare a clay mash from water, clay and compost (or rotted cow manure) with the addition of heteroauxin or root. Clay and compost are taken in equal quantities and diluted with water to form a liquid slurry, and a dissolved heteroauxin tablet is added to 25 ml of vodka. The roots and the root collar are dipped into a clay talker and planted into a bush. ”

   QUESTION

  From home to garden

In the spring I planted a miniature rose from a pot in the country. I want to know: will it die in the winter when it gets cold? Tatyana Korobko, Gantsevichi

Do not worry! Miniature roses are very unpretentious and beautifully winter in the open field. This is explained by the fact that the ancestor of this plant was brought from the mountains of Switzerland, where the climate is rather severe. But now we have the opportunity to replenish their rosaries at the expense of this “room” culture. A mini rose will survive the winter without problems if you follow a few rules. Plant babies need to be in a sunny place, protected from northern winds. Best of all, if the sun will be in the morning: this prevents the plant from falling into powdery mildew and rust. When watering should follow the rule: better less, but more abundant. It is ideal to moisten the soil no more than once every 10 days, spending 3-5 liters per bush, depending on the weather. In addition to watering at the root, you can arrange a rain for roses, especially it is good to do in the heat. Immediately after watering, it is necessary to protect the soil from overheating and retain moisture. This is achieved by mulching. When there is a lawn grass after cutting, use it, you can also take dry leaves, rotted sawdust, humus. The grass, of course, is better, because it, rotting, also provides additional food. But still you can not do without dressings.

From time to time there is a need to move the plants in the area from one place to another. Transplanting roses requires compliance with certain rules that allow you to successfully root a perennial flower in a new place. Often, novice gardeners make mistakes: transplant a blooming rose, choose the wrong time to move the bushes. As a result, the plant starts to hurt, stops blooming or dies.

When is it better to transplant roses

The reasons why roses should be transplanted in the garden can be different:

  • depleted soil;
  • light deterioration due to overgrown neighboring plants;
  • regular pest attack;
  • the creation of new flower beds.

Scheduled relocation of a flower to a new place is best done at the end of the season. Autumn transplant of roses is considered the safest for the plant. It is possible to transplant a shrub in early spring, it will slightly “push away” the beginning of flowering, but will not have a negative effect on the plant. It is most difficult to transplant an adult specimen at the height of the summer season, especially during heavy flowering.

In the spring

Transplanting roses in the spring to a new place is carried out at a time when the soil is saturated with moisture after melting snow cover, warmed to 7-10 ° C, and the buds on the bush have not yet swelled. During this period, optimal conditions are provided for the survival of bushes. The lack of spring transplantation is that the rose spends additional forces on the formation of new roots and adaptation to the site, which prevents the onset of flowering.

The calendar date of work on the movement of the flower depends on the climate. In the middle belt, roses are planted in early April, in the southern regions in mid-February.

Summer

If it became necessary to transplant adult bushes in the summer, you should follow special rules. The plant is subjected to cardinal pruning. Remove all the buds and flowers, half-shortened shoots. In tall roses, trunks with a height of no more than 50 cm are left; in dwarf varieties, shoots are cut after 2-3 buds.

The preferred transplant times are evening hours and overcast weather. The first time a rose is planted on a new place is often watered, protected from sunlight and winds. On hot and dry days, spray it with warm water.

In the autumn

Transplantation of roses in the autumn is carried out 3-4 weeks before the onset of frost. In this case, the plant successfully takes root in the still warm soil, but does not have time to grow new shoots. An earlier date for planting a flower at a new place will provoke the growth of green mass, which will weaken the plant before the winter cold. Planting roses just before the temperature drops to negative values ​​leads to the death of the perennial. A weakened plant will not have time to grow new roots, to adapt to the changed conditions and will not tolerate the winter cold.

Selection and preparation of the place under the rose garden

Lush flowering, immunity to pests and diseases is achieved under the condition of planting roses in the right place. Plot under the flower bed must meet several requirements:

  • illumination during daylight hours. You should not plant perennial in the shade of trees, shrubs or garden buildings;
  • soil fertility. A flowering plant needs a lot of nutrients;
  • lack of water stagnation and spring flooding of the site. Roses growing in too moist soil are constantly exposed to fungal diseases;
  • wind protection. It should not be taken under a bed of roses plot, which is blown cold streams from the north and west side.

Site preparation is carried out a few weeks before the transplant. Dig up the soil, free from weeds, old roots and other debris. The soil is enriched with mineral fertilizers and wood ash. Poor soil is additionally fertilized with rotted compost or humus. Top dressing is carried out no later than 2 weeks before transplantation so that the root system of the flower does not get burned.

Preparing a plant for transplanting

The main task in transplanting an adult bush is to preserve the root system as much as possible. Move the roses to a new place with a lump of earth in which they grew. For grafted flowers is characterized by a deep occurrence of the roots, especially the main rod. The length can be more than one and a half meters. It does not make sense to dig the main root completely, it can be chopped off. Own-rooted seedlings, as a rule, have a superficial system of roots.

In dry weather, it is necessary to water a flower abundantly 2 days before transfer. It is quite simple to dig out small copies, their root system corresponds to the ground part and the procedure does not cause difficulties. The situation is different with large bushes. To transplant such roses requires adherence to technology:

  • the branches of the plant are carefully tied up with twine or wrapped with coarse cloth. This facilitates access to the ground around the plant;
  • around the rose bush they dig a trench with a diameter equal to the above-ground part of the plant, gradually penetrating along the entire length of the roots;
  • the longest root processes are chopped off with a spade or other garden tools. Place the cut before planting treated with ashes;
  • the excavated earthen room is gently transferred onto a strong polyethylene film, transferred to the landing site.

If you plan to plant roses the next day, the ground around the roots is wrapped with a damp cloth to prevent them from drying out.

How to transplant roses

It is advisable to transplant the dug bush as soon as possible into the prepared pit. If the damaged root areas are visually inspected, they should be removed by treating the cut point with copper sulphate or ash. Large copies of the bushes can be moved around the site on the burlap and transplanted into the planting pit along with it. Roots grow without problems through loose tissue.

Landing pattern

The diameter of the hole for the bush is determined in accordance with the circumference of the main part of the shoots. The pit is dug 15-20 cm wider and 10 cm deeper. The distance between individual seedlings is left according to the following scheme:

  • miniature, undersized species - after 30-40 cm;
  • hybrid tea varieties - after 60-90 cm;
  • braiding, standard types - at a distance of 50-100 cm;
  • large, tall varieties - in 1.5-2 m.

Such a planting scheme will allow the growing roses to get a sufficient amount of nutrients and light, eliminating the interweaving of root processes between individual bushes.

Procedure technology

At the bottom lay a layer of small gravel or broken brick, sprinkled with a hill of fertile soil. Place an earthen clod with the plant, sprinkle a portion of the earth and spill water. Fall asleep the remaining soil, gently tamped and again shed water. The rosebush is buried so that the root neck is at the same level as before the transplant. If the rose is properly transplanted, it will take root in a new place within 2-3 weeks.

Secrets and features

Regardless of the variety, age and condition of rose bushes, there are uniform requirements for transplanting:

  • use clean garden tools to reduce the risk of infecting a weakened rose;
  • provide air shelter for the winter, transplanted flowers in autumn;
  • transplant bushes no more than once every 3-4 years;
  • before transplanting, remove dry, diseased stems, buds and flowers.

In addition, there are special rules by which different types of perennial flower are transplanted.

How to transplant a blooming rose

It is possible to transplant roses during flowering, but the procedure will require more time and effort. It is recommended to do this only when absolutely necessary. Old, large specimens may die due to severe stress. In small bushes pruned shoots are radically cut off, leaves and flowers are removed. So the percent of evaporation of moisture decreases, and all forces go to rooting. In the summer heat, frequent watering is required, the soil is kept moist until new shoots appear on the shoots.

Climbing species

The main difficulty lies in the accurate release of shoots climbing and climbing varieties of support. The optimal period to successfully transplant the woven species is the autumn months. Prepare a bush to move begin in August. Young shoots shorten the top, so that by the fall it is partially cracked. Old stems are cut by 2/3, diseased and dry branches are removed. The cut place is disinfected with ashes or garden pitch.

Replanting old bushes

It is difficult to transplant a large or old rose to a new place because of the large size of the overgrown root system. Digging and moving a flower is easier for two people. It is recommended to transplant an adult rose in autumn or early spring. Growing conditions are selected as close as possible to the former. Before you start digging, prepare clean and sharp tools, which are cut off too long processes of roots. The injured roots are easily affected by pests and diseases, therefore the ground and open areas are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Rose has earned a reputation as a capricious flower. Transplanting a blooming beauty to a new place is not easy, it takes an effort to ensure proper preparation and subsequent care. Due to the severe stress that the plant experiences during transplantation, abundant flowering resumes a year after successful rooting.