Prehistory
Before starting to do this project, I watched for a long time a photo of everything that I had done before. All the cases (and there are 3 of them) were somewhat similar to each other. So correct, shiny, glossy. And I thought: why not do something different from previous work? And here, by the way, came the viewing of the movie “The Punisher” (aka Punisher). It was he who prompted me to create this project.
Concept and work planning
The film carries a lot of feelings of fear, pain, feelings and alienation to everything (well, this is my personal). That is what needed to be saved and transferred in the project. This will help us and the film's logo, a skull on a black shirt of the protagonist. We will place it on the right wall of the case. On the left wall, as always, a window. The shape of the window must match, the correct form is out of the question. The textured surface, like nothing else, can convey feelings of fear, a smooth and glossy surface is clearly not the place. The colors, of course, are matte: black, red and gray. Well, we have outlined the work plan, it's time to put it into practice.
Selection and preparation of the hull
The choice of case was simple and limited to three parameters: the price, the front panel of the case should not be rounded, but should have angular features, well, and just the presence in the store at that time. Under these parameters, the Super Power 6054 c10 with a 300W power supply fits perfectly. At first glance, nothing like a remarkable gray body. Inside, everything is also more than standard.
The first thing we do is all the skins. The power supply (in advance pulling out all the insides) also skins. It is convenient to clean small parts manually with not large sheets of medium roughness. Possessing a congenital laziness, I did not dare to skin the walls manually, then I used a special nozzle for a drill called the “petal circle”. With the help of this not tricky device I spent on cleaning the walls of the front panel and the power supply from the strength of 10 minutes.
Painting the inside of the hull
When painting, not many pay attention to the inside of the case. The power unit and internal walls are painted with black, matte, spray paint. Everything should be in one tone and no brilliance - this will give, so to speak, greater depth. There are no problems with the power supply. But with the case itself is not so simple. There are many hard to reach places that are not so easy to get to. But after a while, adjusting it is not so difficult. Here the main thing is a convenient location of the painted parts and good illumination of the room. Before painting, we clean all parts with any degreasing agent. I always paint in three layers, it allows you to achieve high-quality surface painting and prevent smudges. I use spray paint for any surfaces.
Understanding the power supply
The first thing we do is disassemble everything and remove the standard fan. I did not crash any windows, so as not to focus on the BP. It just needs to be slightly inconspicuous.
I didn’t buy branded connectors for two reasons: because of their lack of sales and of course because of the savings. But leaving them as they were was not good either. Exit - painting.
Here I will write how to paint is not necessary! I did not disassemble the connectors by my innate laziness, but I painted it right on the wires. Naturally, the wires were all sealed with masking tape. Of course, it turned out not bad, and the final goal was achieved, but for better quality, everything must be disassembled and painted all separately!
What to remove the wires?
For a long time I thought and tried a lot of different ways, but stopped at the braid of a 10 mm rope. Why precisely cable? The first, but not the main thing, is the price and availability, it is in any “everything for tourism” store and costs 25 rubles / m (as opposed to a branded braid). The second is the flexibility and volume of the wires, which does not limit the placement (unlike the corrugated tube). The third is the look. There are many cables of different diameters and different colors. Here are three “FOR” in favor of the braid of the rope rope.
We disassemble and remove all Molex. This can be done either with mini tweezers, or with clock screwdrivers, or with a needle or an awl. We take the cable, take out the rope, which is its basis. The braid is easily dismissed in places of incision, but this is easily avoided by searing the ends with a lighter. Cut pieces of the desired length better with a margin of 5-10 mm. I wrapped the wires with the usual transparent tape to improve the slip of thick patches of sheath. Then an hour or two and everything is ready. The edges are fastened with ties, so that nothing has gone anywhere!
4 and 20-pin connectors disassemble without specials. tool virtually impossible. There is only one way out - to solder, put on the sheath and solder back. With a 4-pin, nevertheless, it is simpler, and with a 20-pin it is more difficult, especially to solder everything exactly as it was. Therefore, I left the 20-pin one as it was.
Next, we replace the standard fan with a new, transparent with backlight. The wire was quite long (45 cm) and the connection connector I brought out of the PSU for the connection to the fan speed controller. Putting it all back and admiring the result.
We cut in the window
The shape of the window, as I said, certainly should not be correct. That is, a rectangle, a circle, an oval and their derivatives can not be avoided here. Need something in the spirit of bloodiness. A couple of hours of drawing on paper and the window is ready. The combination of straight and curved lines balances the geometry of the window, making it more interesting and unusual. Next, transfer the contour to the wall of the housing.
We cut out large straight sections with a small grinder with a disc for 150 mm metal. We cut out small parts with a Dremel, they can, of course, cut everything out, but this will require a lot of circles and time. Having finished the main work, we take sets of files and files for processing the edges of the window. It is important to do everything neatly and slowly, as there were a lot of sharp corners that could easily get hurt. Bringing the shape of the window to the ideal, clear the wall for the imposition of soil. Before painting, you can try on a piece of plexiglass.
Front Panel
In order to somehow revive the front panel, let's make a chip in the upper left corner. Turn off the panel from the body and draw the contour of the chip. Here, of course, many thought it was easy to solve everything with a good hammer blow, but this was not at all the right decision. It is impossible to predict how, what and in what place will break away. By this, you will have to cut everything with a mini-drill in a pair with side cutters. But everything must be done with a slight negligence in order to give a cleavage of naturalness. Excess parts are thrown out, and the panel is cleaned for painting.
Creating textured surface
How to give a flat surface texture and turn it into a completely different one. The easiest quick and common way is putty. When restoring a car body with a putty, level bumps, cracks and chips. We will turn it all in the opposite direction. For this we need an acrylic putty for metal surfaces, a pair of spatulas and a pair of straight hands. Having thought out the location of the elements, we begin to put putty on the walls. Naturally, there’s nothing to equal here, but on the contrary it’s necessary to add scratches, dents and all irregularities. We do all this with the corners of a trowel, a hard brush and, of course, our hands. Next, leave everything until the filler is completely dry. After drying, check how well the filler is kept on the surface. If everything is in order, then proceed to painting.
Painting
Step 1: First you need to get rid of the whiteness of putty. Apply the first layer of bronzovka using a conventional paint brush. Bronze or silver give shine and a large number of edemas, which, combined with the relief surface, create very interesting effects. Of course, it is not necessary to paint over everything 100%, there should be gaps and smudges, such carelessness and naturalness. Let the layer dry for a couple of hours.
Step 2: Then we direct with the help of color schemes and white paint two main shades: dark dirty gray and a little lighter - also dirty red. And all the same paint brush begin to paint. There is no way to give clear guidance; everyone does what he sees and feels. Here it is necessary to rely only on sensations.
Step-3: We take a poisonous dark red paint, which will be "blood" on the ledges of the window and a small artistic brush. We paint over the tips of the projections and peaks completely and very copiously. Next, go on decreasing, it will give the effect of flowing blood. It is important not to overdo it and do everything neatly. Also add bloody scratches on the right wall.
Result after drying
Step-4: After drying of the previous layers, we proceed to the creation of the basic element, the white-gray skull. We take two containers, pour white and gray paint, then we alternate them, mix and get different shades. A couple of small artistic brushes in hand and begin to create the outline, then paint over the base. In conclusion, we give edges and some other parts of greater naturalness with various shades and color transitions.
Step 5: To create the inscription The Punisher we need white and blood-red paint. Here, I think, there is nothing complicated: a couple of layers and a signature are ready.
Step 6: It remains to give the individuality of the front panel. Two plugs are missing, on these places will be CD-drives. On the remaining two panels we write in small white letters a quote from the final scene of the film. First, with a very small brush, carefully write the basic inscription in plain white paint. It stands out very strongly against the general background, therefore it needs to be smoothed out. We take a large paint brush with gray paint and pass, barely clicking on the inscription. Done! We also drive a slot in the drive.
Now I will tell you the story of the rebirth of my system unit.
It all started a year ago. There was a desire to get a beautiful and eye-catching sistemnik, but, as is often the case, there was not enough cash ..: * (It was decided to start an “upgrade” by changing the appearance of the system unit!
But what to do? It was invented and drawn many sketches. Definitely need to make a "window". Outlined, decided on the shape and size - it is necessary to cut a hole, stick plexiglass and repaint. The first and last points did not make anything complicated: finding a Bulgarian through acquaintances is quite realistic, buying paint too, but plexiglass ... Finding it was a problem for me at that time, but one wonderful day there was a thunderstorm, I would say a strong wind, and in the morning, under the windows of the house, I found pieces of plexiglass of approximately 2 square meters. on 5 mm. in thickness. HOORAY! Everything you need "on board" - you can get to work! : exc:
All it took me ~ 8 hours in 2 days.
So, closer to the point!
Day one: "Remove excess weight."
Cut holes under the "window" and cut the plexiglas in size. Special thanks to a friend who had all the necessary equipment: a Bulgarian, a grinding wheel, a drill, etc. It all took about an hour: I drank, cleaning the corners, removing the factory cover of the case. Nothing special, but nevertheless half of the work has already been done! With a satisfied smile, I took the already prepared material home.
Day two: "From rags to riches".
"Prologue"
Waking up, rushed to the store for paint. The color scheme was defined - black and gray (fortunately or unhappily, all computer peripherals in these colors).To my surprise and joy on the shelf was the last balon "matte black." He took it without hesitation, not forgetting to grab the gray gloss.
And after that, the most important and long-term "rebirth" of my sistemnik began: complete disassembly, painting and, accordingly, reassembly.
"Action One: Dismantling"
Well, there is nothing complicated - you unscrew everything that you see (the main thing - DO NOT LOSE SCREWS!: E). It took a little less than an hour: I disassembled, I washed all the iron and left it to stand (the cooler was dry) and set about the very essence of the whole act - painting.
"Act Two: Transfiguration"
As I said earlier, I bought a black matte and gray gloss paint. The painted surfaces were cleaned and degreased with gasoline for lighters (I bought it directly for a lighter, but I did not find it myself ...). And then the “apogee” began (not in terms of complexity, but in terms of duration). He built a spray booth on the balcony and began to "sculpt". It was necessary to paint every detail (which turned out to be in the total score 13 (you are kidding?) Those. The point was that you put one coat of paint on one part, immediately put it off to dry and go on to another. And so until everything is painted. All this took me all the bottle of black paint and about 5 hours of time!
"Act Three: Build"
And here, not without incident ... The most important thing is not to damage the fresh paint. Although the desire to quickly finish with all this business was no less. But still, concentrating on the matter, I was able to finish it without serious excesses. I assembled the case, installed the cleaned iron back, lubricated the cooler, screwed the glass to the wall, etc. These actions took me half an hour.
"Epilogue"
The resulting "product" looks much more solid and more attractive in comparison with what was previously available. The transformation took me about 8 hours in total, but it was inexpensive and almost the desired result was obtained (according to my idea at the moment it is still "semi-finished product").My expenses in this project were:
Propyl windows and trimming plexiglass are free (thanks to a friend!).
Two balon paint - 250r.
Gasoline bottle for cleaning the case (100 ml.) - 27р.
Most recently, I upgraded my main computer case to. Cooler Master did a good job on the new line of MasterCase Maker enclosures, giving us the opportunity for easy modding by installing the necessary modules. But, anyway, in order to get a unique and beautiful body, you need to finish everything yourself and there are a lot of questions, because there is little information on modding and I decided to fix this problem by running the appropriate Pro Modding ruble in which I’ll tell About working on your body. Pro Modding is a series of educational material about home modding a computer, without the use of expensive professional tools, which means that it is available to everyone.
In the near future, we will consider the following modding questions:
- Painting body parts
- Creation of stickers and stencils
Painting body parts
Where to begin?
Work on PC modding begins with an idea. That is why, before starting to work, you need to think over everything that you want to get in the end, the selection of materials for work will depend on it. It is also worth assessing your body and, in principle, it didn’t matter if you stood for 10 years or you just got it out of the box, you can paint anything you like, and in any case, add personality and “refresh” the body.
Why did I start working on a new one and did not take something old? Cooler Master forgives mistakes and this is a huge plus. In the event that “nakosyachil” with painting or realized that this color does not suit you, or in general it was better initially, you can order the necessary details in the official store CMstore.eu. And you can take an archive of 3D parts from and in general print something on a 3D printer.
Required materials for work
In my project, you have to paint both plastic and metal parts. And, as a rule, these two materials are painted in absolutely different ways and, if there is a lot of material in metal painting, then we will know how to deal with plastic. Let's start with the tools and materials that are needed in both cases:
- Spray paint. And there are a few nuances. You should not buy the cheapest paint, it is "different" in poor covering power and more liquid compared to even the options from the middle price category. It is important to buy paint in a proven place and be sure that if it is not enough, you will still have the opportunity to purchase the desired color, but it is better to take it immediately with a stock.
- Degreaser. It is useful for degreasing the surface before painting. You can use a degreaser, but I used alcohol, it also copes with this task, but evaporates faster.
- Lint-free cloth for smooth surfaces. It is very convenient when degreasing the surface, and as the name implies, does not leave behind a nap.
- Masking tape. It is necessary to protect all the parts on which paint may accidentally fall. You can take both narrow and wide, depending on the situation and details.
- Paint knife and blades for it. In my case there were a lot of details with a complex shape, respectively, a knife will help in fitting the masking tape to your dimensions.
- Sandpaper, an abrasive sponge and, surprisingly, a nail file, yes, I took it away from my wife (according to his wife: this is not a file, this is a grinder for natural nails) :). In case you paint the old case, large sandpaper can come in handy, but basically, our option is a very fine sandpaper, an abrasive sponge is also a fine grain.
- Auxiliary tools. Gloves, protective disposable masks, but I, frankly, somehow did without them.
- When painting old metal parts with damaged or poor-quality coating, primer on metal is useful, and primer on plastics is needed for painting plastic parts, and here it is necessary to immediately warn, it is not so easy to find on the shelves.
Surface preparation
Plastic preparation
In case you have to work with plastic, preparing it for painting is not difficult. It is necessary to check the part for the presence of deep scratches or, if the plastic is cheap, for the presence of coarse protruding pieces left from the factory during the smelting of the part, respectively, to remove all unnecessary things with a knife and clean, deep scratches with a fine emery paper to ensure that smooth out. In my case, all plastic elements have excellent factory processing, for this reason I simply missed this stage.
The next important and very painstaking moment is to protect surfaces that are not going to be painted with masking tape, which means you need to be patient and carefully paste over all the necessary surfaces. 
Metal preparation
With metal surfaces is much more complicated. If you have an old case with a damaged coating or a new one with poor quality, then you can prepare for a long and tedious process - a complete cleaning of the surface to the metal. If you apply the paint directly from above - nothing good will come out, it will either lie unevenly, or quickly peel off.
I was lucky again: painted better than cars of the Russian car industry. If you also have a new well-coated case, it will be enough just to clean the surface with fine emery paper and, better, an abrasive sponge to a matte condition, for better styling and “adhesion” of subsequent paint layers. Everything that should not be painted is also taped with masking tape.
Painting
Plastic painting
Immediately before painting, the part is degreased, but it is worth being careful when degreasing near the masking tape; if done inaccurately, the degreaser can “eat” the glue from the tape and you will have to re-glue it. Important! Never use acetone for plastic degreasing! He is aggressive towards plastic and can eat it.
After degreasing, the most important stage begins - the primer. If you apply it incorrectly, you can spoil the part and have to start all over again. Primer for plastic is needed to better fix the paint. Proven, non-primed plastic holds paint much worse.
How to apply primer or paint? An example you can see in the gif below.
You need to clearly understand a few nuances:
- Shake the can well - this is a must! Otherwise, the paint may be sprayed unevenly or even clots.
- The first spray carried out in the air. Since the first spraying may be larger particles or even intermittently exit the air.
- Never spray directly on the part! Otherwise, the stains can not be avoided. You may notice that I start spraying far beyond the contour of the part, yes - this is more paint consumption in the empty, but in this way the surface is painted evenly and without smudges.
- When applying layers, it is better to alternate the direction of application of the material: apply alternately along-across.
How to apply primer? Two layers, and if the surface is not smooth or complex shape, you can apply three layers. After applying each layer to give an intermediate drying for 10-15 minutes.
After confirming the primer, it is worth checking the surface; if it is ideally covered with the material, you can proceed to the next step; if there are irregularities or drips, they should be carefully polished. Sanding the drip is most convenient.
How to apply paint? Exactly the same as the primer, but you need to be extremely careful: painting does not tolerate errors. The paint is applied in at least three layers for reliability and smoothness of the surface.
After dyeing, transfer the part from a dry place until completely dry, usually for a day.
Metal painting
Metal painting includes all the same steps, first the part is degreased, and then, if you completely cleaned the part down to metal, you will need to apply a primer on the metal, and if you are sure of the quality of the coating, the paint is applied over the factory coating.
My impressions and conclusions
What can I say about modding? It turned out to be fascinating and quite realistic even at home, I’m not going to show the result of my work completely to save the intrigue, but I’ll brag about only one detail that has already dried out and it remains only to remove the masking tape. And not to miss the development of events and new releases, join our group Vkontak. The new issue of "Pro Modding" will be next week. 
Painting was quite an easy procedure; if you immediately take into account all possible problems and correctly prepare the tool and materials, you can achieve an unforgettable result. But the use of high-quality buildings, as practice has shown, only facilitates modding. So, in my case, I didn’t have to additionally process plastic and are tormented with stripping metal parts, and it’s just beautiful out of the box.
I am not an expert in PC modding, and this project was launched as an experiment, so that I could try it myself and tell you what nuances you might be lurking in in this difficult task. Therefore, immediately leave your questions if they arise. I will answer everything, the record will be updated.
In contact with
classic gray-white to extravagant red and yellow models with an intricate design. But, oddly enough, and it can get bored, because any person can buy the same case, but sometimes you want to stand out, be special ...Today we will tell about how you can change beyond recognition your already bored sistemnik. And the ways to do it are many.
From simple to complex
Modding is a very popular hobby of computer enthusiasts of the whole world, although in Russia this movement is not so massive and is developing slowly. Modding itself includes almost everything connected with a computer, starting with the installation of backlit fans and intricate grilles, neon, ultraviolet and plasma lamps inside the case, transparent windows, using twisted cables and ending with neon cords that permeate all the bends of the case .. In general, the field of activity is rich, the main thing is to turn on your imagination. With a certain sense of style and measure, you can easily make the original author's case, which will delight your eye.
One of the modding directions is body coloring. Of course, there are more radical options: modification of the body itself, changing the shape, etc., but we will not talk about this now, but touch on the most practical and simple part - the coloring.
A more complicated way to perpetuate your computer in history is to pick up cans of different colors in your hands, invent and draw a picture yourself. Moreover, the palette of colors is wide: there are even cans with fluorescent and phosphorizing paint. Can you imagine how it will look in the dark or when you turn on the UV lamp? Moreover, there are sprays with special nozzles, using which you can paint a computer in marble or stone. No less interesting solution would be a can with absolutely black paint - this is how you make “black holes” in the body, but the effect will be only an ultraviolet lamp turned on. It will look spectacular: it will create the feeling that your body is shot through. For more convenience, purchase different nozzles: for finer work or, on the contrary, for applying large objects. As for the types of drawings, you are practically unlimited in your choice, you can draw something in the style of graffiti, landscape, face, etc.
However, this technology has its drawbacks: thin and clear elements (facial features, eyes, etc.) are very difficult to apply. In such cases, use stencils with which you will clearly distinguish the elements of the drawing and will work with them separately. This will greatly facilitate your work.
The advantages of this method of coloring the hull are the cheapness of the cans themselves ( 50 -200 rub.), relative simplicity and accessibility for beginners. But if you have no experience in this matter, you should first practice. Disadvantages of cans: the average quality of the pattern, the paint is not too shiny and quite poorly kept. Although you can always buy lacquer in cans, it will help to correct the situation, but the paint and varnish should be from the same manufacturer.
And now we have reached the most advanced and at the same time the most complex and expensive way to paint the body - airbrushing. Here you will need a lot of things: the actual airbrush, spray gun, compressor, paint, primer, varnish. Using an airbrush, apply the drawing using an airbrush - background colors and large objects. The compressor is responsible for supplying paint. Equipment alone costs more 10 000 rubles ...
A suitable airbrush will cost somewhere in 3000 rub. compressor on 3 atmosphere still in 7500 rub., the spray gun - from 600 rub. Paint company Sadolin standing in the area 60 rub. behind 100 g, better quality Sikkens - 200 rub. behind 100 g plus solvent. Varnish from the same Sikkens - 160 rub. behind 100 year
The fact that airbrushing is not a cheap pleasure, we already understood, but why is it so good? As we have already said, a spray gun is used to apply a general background and large objects and figures, with the help of the airbrush itself a clear pattern is formed - so you can draw boundaries, add various details to your creation (bends, color transitions, shadows, etc.). ). And here the important role is played by experience, the force of pressing the trigger and the distance to the surface. To achieve even clearer borders of the picture, you can use all the same stencils. But here there is one thing: the drawing will turn out to be not quite natural, less alive, although this is rather a subjective opinion.
If you want to master this method of painting, you will need skill and time to master. In addition, do not forget about the high cost of equipment and consumables. The advantages of airbrushing are high quality and durability of the design, the ability to make detailed, detailed details.
In more detail about this method of painting, we will continue to speak below - in our story about how to create a unique body that you can win!
For those who are interested in this article and who want to try their hand, we hold a competition especially for you. Each of you can win the same system unit that we painted, and MP3-player Beatsounds EMP-Z! There will be other encouraging prizes from. All that is required of you is to color your computer yourself and send photos of your creation together with you in the frame and a couple more photos of the painting stages to our email box - or to the postal address of the editors with a note “Competition“ Paint and paint ”. Send photos in high resolution, with good lighting, so that all of us can examine your work in detail. Since the task is not easy, taking your photos to the competition will continue right up to 31 may 2005 of the year. The winners will be chosen by a vote of the workers of the editorial and artistic council of “Igromania”. The results of the competition will be announced in the July issue, and then the winner is announced! If you have never participated in contests of our journal before, be sure to first study the section “Participation in contests” under the heading “Brainstorming” on the last pages of the journal. Good luck to you! For all questions relating to the contest “Paint and paint,” round-the-clock contact: . |
And Picasso took over
It should be said right away that I was not personally involved in body painting - I have no artistic talent to do about it. For all the work and advice worth giving thanks to a completely different person - Pavel Bulgakov.
Now it's time to tell in detail about how all this priesthood was happening. In our case, we used airbrushing - the most difficult, but also the most qualitative method of painting. To begin, we chose the appropriate system unit - InWin V564 MicroATX with power supply on 240 W and card reader. Actually, why did we choose him? Yes, it's just a solid and popular model of the case with a good design.
Next, we faced a difficult problem: what theme for a picture to choose? There are indeed a great many: here you and Diablo, and "Heroes" - but you never know the glorious games on the PC! However, we decided to stay on the popular and well-deserved action of all times and peoples - Doom from id software. For one side, we decided to take the main screensaver Doom 2, and for the reverse, they chose a brutal character from Doom 3 - Hell knight. Well, on top we immodestly put the logo of our magazine “Igromania” - we made it using a stencil, which allowed us to make the logo very clear.
After the crucial issue was solved with the theme of the drawing, it was time to buy the necessary paint.
They were berries, and now flowers - the work begins. First you need to completely disassemble the body, and then sand it (including the front panel, buttons, etc.) with a fine-grained skin. It is important to bore the buttons or connectors of the system unit so that after applying the primer, paint and varnish they “walk” normally, without getting stuck. After that we ground the whole body. It should be said that the soil itself can be of different types: for metal, for plastics and universal. (The latter is more convenient and cheaper, but it is better to use a specialized one.) Now the hull and parts need to be dried - about six hours (depending on the soil). Next, we sand the case again so that the paint will fit on it well.
Only now you can take up the paint - use a solvent and mix the necessary colors. With the help of the spray gun, we applied a general black background and large elements: for example, at the very beginning the Marine was a blurred figure, nothing more. In general, before taking up painting, make sure that there is a minimum of dust in the room. To fight it is simple: take a spray and fill it with plain water, spray around the water, it will nail all the dust to the floor. After we put the background and the main large elements, it is time to take up the airbrush. Here the most difficult begins: drawing the features of the characters and the landscape, working with shadows and shades. Labor, I must say, painstaking, it requires skill and a firm hand, but most importantly - experience. The thickness of the paint can and should be adjusted by pressing the trigger of the airbrush and adjust the distance to the object. But the simplest in the whole process was to make our logo - we just ordered a stencil, installed it on the upper part of the body, took a spray gun, filled it with red paint - and it was done.
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The final touch is the polishing of the case, for this you can use any polish for cars.
Everything, we made it - painted the case!
* * *
Actually, this is where we part: our case is completely ready, and it can already be used for its intended purpose - to install all the necessary hardware in it (motherboard, processor, memory, video card, hard disk, etc.) and enjoy its view, Realizing that no one else has such a body!
Thank company Digital Direction Electronics Co., Ltd (DDEC) for providing prizes (
