Diseases of indoor plants. The most common pests and diseases of indoor plants

Plants, like all living organisms, are also susceptible to diseases and insect pests. The reasons why the plant gets sick - a lot. After all, homemade flowers grow in conditions that are unusual for them: an artificial climate that does not always meet their needs, a limited area of ​​the pot, and there are pests of indoor plants that tend to make their lives worse.

Some believe that being in the house, the flowers are safe, because they are protected by windows and glass, from any influence of the outside world.

However, there are several ways that pests can use to get into your home. You can simply buy an infected plant, or put them on shoes, and many insects themselves are quite mobile, able to travel long distances. On room flowers, pests find for themselves quite favorable conditions for life and active reproduction.

For an effective fight, “you need to know the enemy by sight,” let's consider what are the most common diseases and pests of house plants:

The most dangerous diseases of indoor plants

• Leaf spot (anthracnose)- the foliage of the plant is covered with small brown spots, the edges dry out.

Isolate the plant from other flowers, as they can transmit the disease. Treat the plant with a preparation that contains copper. Watering - moderate.

• Gray Rot (Botrytis)   - a whitish bloom appears on the leaves as a result of overflow.

Place a diseased plant separately, remove infected parts, reduce watering.

•   - black foliage appears on the foliage, due to sticky aphid excretions, photosynthesis almost ceases in the plant, significant growth retardation occurs.

Remove black bloom with a damp cloth or sponge, spraying against pests "Fungicide".

• Brown rot   - It appears as brownish red spots on the foliage, actively increasing in size. With delayed treatment - the flower dies.

Usually the disease is caused by excess moisture and rotting of the root system.

• . The whole plant is as if covered with a layer of flour. The disease is fungal, so the soil is infected with spores of the fungus. Susceptible to disease plants with reduced immunity.

Isolate the plant from the rest and treat it with a fungicide.

• Downy mildew - The lesion is very similar to the previous disease. The peculiarity is that with the powdery powdery mildew disease, the bottom of the leaf is covered with white bloom, and the top is covered with light yellow spots.

Remove damaged leaves, shoots, buds. Treat with a fungicide.

• Cercosporosis   - the disease is caused by a lesion of the fungus, manifested as a multitude of small black dots on the back of the leaves, the disease causes their further yellowing, fading.

The plant is treated with "Dinocap" or systemic "Fungicide";

• - the formation of pustules, different shades from red-orange to dark brown. The upper side of the leaves is covered with red spots.

Remove suspicious leaves. Observe the optimum temperature and humidity.

•   - fungal disease basically begins with root rot, then spreads throughout the flower. The plant weakens, quickly fades and most often dies.

In the neglected case, the disease is almost impossible to treat, remove and destroy the plant along with the soil, and disinfect the pot and sill of 5% copper sulfate solution.

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The most dangerous pests of domestic plants

• White fly   - small moth, is a carrier of viral diseases. It reproduces on the lower side of the leaf in the form of small grains. The whitefly and the larvae feed on the sap of the plant, spread the sticky liquid; foliage turns yellow, falls.

A solution of “Nicotine sulfate”, “Parathion” is used against the whitefly.

•   - the surest sign of the disease - the appearance of yellow spots, foliage changes color, prematurely fall off. Promotes the appearance and active reproduction of dry air.

Spraying with Derris, Fitoverm, Fufan, Actellic.

• Grape elephant beetle   - eats leaves, the larvae live in the soil and feed on roots, bulbs and tubers. More often suffer from beetles: cyclamens and primroses.

Treat the soil with insecticides.

• Aphids   - small insects, often hiding on the back of the leaves of the plant.

In the fight against aphids used insecticides.

•   - tiny midges mostly infest on rotting particles of a plant. Carrier pathogens.

•   - usually appears as white bloom over the entire surface of the plant.

First, gently remove the pest from the plant with a sponge or soft brush. Then rinse under warm water jets. Conduct a thorough inspection of nearby colors and be sure to wipe the window sill where the plant stood. Against a mealybug, spray with a solution of "Aktellik", with repeated treatment after 3 days.

• .   The appearance on the leaves and stalks of small insects covered with a shield that feed on the sap of the plant. Foliage loses color, dries and falls.

Wipe with a sponge with soapy water, for cleaning from pests. Against a scytula, spray with a solution of 0.15% Aktellik (1-2 ml / 1l of water).

– the appearance of many tiny insects on the inside of the leaf, on the top - the appearance of white dots. As a result, the upper side of the leaves acquires a grayish-brown color with a silvery sheen.

Wash the plant with a solution of warm water and soap. Treat with pyrethrum solution.

• —   small flies, which feed on the decaying remains of the plant, cause significant damage to the roots, and the living tissue of the plant suffers during mass destruction.

Treat the soil with insecticide preparations.

•   - insects, very similar to worms. They gnaw the roots, as a result of which the plant lags significantly behind in growth, the yellowness of the leaves appears, the affected plant withers and dies.

If the damage to the enkhitrei is noticed in time, immediately flush the roots of the plant from the ground and transplant it into a new soil. If you can not change the soil - spill the soil with a solution of insecticide.

•   - one of the most dangerous pests. White worms live in the soil, infect the root system, suck the plant sap, releasing toxins. The plant is weakened, significantly lagging behind in growth, the leaves are crushed, deformed.

Try to use the anthelmintic drug "Dekaris". With a strong infection, the plant and the soil are destroyed.

Neglect of hygiene in the care of flowers, entails the risk of diseases and pests. Therefore, with particular responsibility you need to fulfill the basic requirements for the care of your green pets.

1. Preventive measures

• Buy plants and planting materials in flower shops, do not forget that, perhaps, it is there that the pests of indoor plants are hiding - in the soil.
• Select the types and varieties of flowers that are resistant to diseases and pests.
• Follow the rules of care based on the characteristics of the plant.
• Follow the health of flowers.
• Immediately isolate the diseased or infected plant.
• At the first sign of damage, begin an immediate fight against diseases and pests of houseplants.

2. Mechanical control measures

• Keep clean, timely remove damaged, dead parts of plants.
• When pests appear, destroy insects and their larvae.

3. Biological activities

• Use in the fight against pests of indoor plants: insecticides and phytoncides.
• For treatments, it is possible to use "folk remedies": infusions, decoctions, herbs.

4. Chemical events

• • The use of chemicals makes sense if biological products do not give the desired effect. Pest control using chemical means shows good results, but at the same time it requires special attention to the observance of safety measures.

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It is useful to know - some factors of the appearance of pests on indoor flowers

There are a variety of diseases of indoor flowers, some of them complex, requiring a special approach to treatment and preventive measures in the future. Rust - a disease of indoor plants - a rare, but dangerous, able to destroy the flower. The name of this disease of flowers is explained by the appearance of the lesions: red and brown spots appear on the leaves of domestic plants, slightly protruding and woolly. Actually - this is a fungus. The treatment of home flowers affected by them is long and complex. It is imperative to review the conditions in which the plant is located, and the scheme of care.

Ficus, completely infected with rust, is very difficult to cure.

It is not so difficult to recognize rust on plants, the signs of this disease are specific, they are not confused or missed.

1. First, there is rust on the leaves and on the stems of home flowers. It looks like yellow-brown or red-brown convex spots of various sizes and shapes.
2. Spots grow in size, swell and form pustules. The leaves of diseased plants vigorously evaporate moisture, pustules dry quickly, crack and burst. “Rusty” powder is poured out of them, which poses a serious threat to neighboring healthy plants. These are spores of the fungus that quickly spread through the air throughout the flower garden.
3. Then the spores completely cover the entire surface of the leaf and stems, appear on the flowers. Plants change color, become brown or brown.
4. Then the indoor flowers begin to dry and lose the leaves, if you do not start treatment, the plants will die.

However, even if we start taking measures, it is not always possible to save indoor plants from the disease. Therefore, it is better not to allow its appearance and development.

It is important to know: at a temperature not exceeding 10 degrees above zero, the incubation period of the disease lasts up to 20 days. If the temperature is above 18 degrees, then the incubation period is reduced to 7-14 days.

Causes of

Rust is a fungal disease, and the fungus is known to like to settle there, de humid, warm and dark. From this we can conclude that rust on plants occurs when they are too often and abundantly watered, not ventilated and kept in the shade, away from direct sunlight or phytolamps.

It is especially dangerous to flood indoor plants with water in winter. Many flowers in the cold season fall into a state of rest until spring, they do not need frequent watering, as well as mineral dressings. If, in addition to this, the pot is near the battery, you should not be surprised at the appearance of such a plant disease.

Excessive watering of indoor plants can lead to rust.

Also, the development of the fungus can trigger the abuse of mineral fertilizers rich in nitrogen. In winter, they are not needed at all. And during the growing season and flowering plants should strictly follow the instructions and do not make too high a concentration of fertilizer.

If the pots of plants are on the open terrace, veranda or on the balcony, the spores of the fungus can be carried by the wind or insects. Sometimes come across seeds already contaminated with rust. Recognizing this is difficult, often impossible at all. This is one of the reasons why seeds should be treated with potassium permanganate before sowing. Like the tanks with the ground in which they will land.

What indoor plants suffer more often than others?

In principle, rust can appear on indoor plants of any kind. But certain varieties of fungus loves more than others. In addition, there are home flowers that are more susceptible to fungal spores and are not able to fight them. Protect from moisture and overheating with particular care should such decorative cultures:

• camellia;
• fuchsia;
• carnation;
• cyclamen;
• pelargonium;
• the Rose;
• geranium;
• chrysanthemum.

A rust-damaged cameo leaf is no longer a treatment.

This fungus loves to settle in garden crops such as asparagus and citrus shrubs, often it affects different types of palm trees.

We treat and prevent disease

In most cases, the flower garden suffers from rust due to the fault of the owners themselves - this means that they improperly care for their plants. In order to prevent the formation and spread of the fungus in the spring, all flowers should be treated with a one-percent solution of Bordeaux mixture.

What to do if a fungus settled on the plant and its leaves began to rust? First of all, it is important to prevent infection of neighboring plants, even if the diseased flower can no longer be saved. Therefore, a sick flower must be carried away immediately to a hotel room. The affected leaves break to the last, even if there are only a few small spots of rust on them. Then they need to burn away from the flower bed.

Bordeaux mixture is used to combat rust on indoor and garden plants.

The flower itself can be processed all the same Bordeaux mixture. Or use sulfur dust. You can also independently prepare such a disinfectant mixture:

• heat 5 liters of purified water;
• dissolve in water 200 g of green soap;
• add 15 g of copper sulfate.

The room in which the plant in the pot is located must be aired well several times a day, and it is better to keep the window open at all times. Neither dry air nor high humidity should be allowed.

It is important to water the plant properly. The liquid should be added to the pan or to the ground, but so that the water falls under the root, and not on the leaves and flowers of the plant. If supplements are used, preference should be given to preparations containing potassium and phosphorus.

Copper sulfate is a component of the spray preparation that can be prepared independently.

Beginning gardeners often confuse rust with any red spots on the leaves of plants and begin to spray the flower garden with various fungicides. As a result, many plants die from an improperly applied agent. Therefore, if a suspicion of a fungus infestation of a plant has arisen, one should either get acquainted with high-quality photos of symptoms and manifestations of the disease, or invite a knowledgeable person to inspect plants and diagnose.

Different colors and crops may also show rust in different ways. On some colors, it develops faster, on others it grows very slowly, for weeks and months. In any case, it is necessary to treat the plant, the most important points in this process are ensuring a constant flow of fresh air and removal of the affected parts of the flower. Treatment with a disinfectant solution is recommended to be repeated 10–12 days after the first spraying.

A healthy, full of strength and energy indoor plant - a joy for the grower. However, sometimes such a beautiful picture spoils the appearance of pests or diseases. The reason for this may be an artificial climate, improper care, inappropriate pot size for plants, and pest infiltration.

It is important to take the necessary measures so that the flower does not die. And for this it is important to know the signs of the emergence of a disease or pest, in time to detect and properly treat them.

Consider the most popular diseases of indoor plants.

Mealy dew

Belle or powdery mildew on houseplants is a common fungal disease among flowers.

The first manifestations - the appearance of small white specks, similar to starch, or flour. They are easily washable. Over time, they increase, covering the entire area of ​​the leaf, and then the whole plant. The color changes from white to gray and then to brown. Leaves "shrivel" and fall. Such a plaque may appear both on the inside and on the outside of the leaflet.

The cause of the disease can be:

• High air humidity;
• High temperature in the room;
• Sudden changes in temperature;
• Excessive fertilizing with nitrogenous fertilizers.

Particularly often powdery mildew strikes (violets),. It is especially important for owners of these plants to regularly examine the plants for signs of disease and to carry out prevention.

One of the methods of treatment of powdery mildew on indoor plants is sprinkling the plant with ground sulfur. Before that you need to spray the flower with water. During the procedure, it is important to observe precautions, and after it thoroughly wash everything. Spraying the flower with a solution consisting of 25 g of soda, 20 g of household soap and 5 liters of water is also effective.

Fungicides   - biological or chemical drugs to combat diseases - such as Topaz, Scor, Vectra, are also effective in the treatment of powdery mildew.

Aphids on indoor plants

The louse is clearly visible to the naked eye on the flowers, the underside of young leaves.

Aphids are particularly susceptible to carnations, roses, fuchsias, aroid family:, caladium,.

If only a few pests are found on the plant, it is enough to crush them, and wash the flower with soapy water. If the plant is affected by a colony of aphids, more serious measures are needed.

Before getting rid of aphids on indoor plants, the flower is washed with soapy water.pests are removed mechanically whenever possible.

Then three or four times treatment is carried out with one of the following preparations with an interval of a week:

Treat the plant 3-4 times a week

Spraying infusion of wormwood, tobacco, tansy, marigold or dandelion;

• Dusting DDT powder, tobacco dust or wood ash;
• Spraying with pyrethrum solution in the proportion of 1 g per 0.5 l of water;
• Use of insecticides: Fas, Detsis, Karate, Tsipermetrin.

Fighting aphids on houseplants is not an easy event.

Spider mite

A frequent pest of houseplants - spider mite - a barely noticeable spider of yellow, red or brown color. Spider mites feed on plant sap. It is located mainly on the lower parts of the leaves, with a strong infection - at the tips of the shoots.

Spider mite attacks almost all indoor flowers, especially blooming. At the beginning small yellowish spots appear on the leaves, then they increase. The leaf gradually dries out and falls. A thin web between the leaves and the stem can be seen. Especially favorable conditions for a pest are high temperature and low humidity.

You can take the following steps:

• Spray the plant regularly with water to increase moisture;
• Wash the leaves with warm soapy water;
• Short sessions (2 minutes) of ultraviolet irradiation from the bottom of the plant;
• Take out the flower in the garden or on the balcony;
• Use drugs: Aktelik, Fitoverm, Neoron.

Thrips

Thrips - small (up to 2 mm) insect pests of dark brown or black color. They have two pairs of wings, so they quickly move and can infect a large number of plants. Breed quickly. They settle mainly on the lower part of the leaves of the flower, along the veins. They feed on the sap of the plant, first scraping off the skin.

On the lower side of the damaged leaves are visible brownish spots that have a light shade on the upper side.

With no treatment, the leaves gradually dry up and fall off. Slowed plant growth.

Special harm to flowers. They lose their beautiful appearance, they become deformed, spots appear on them.

Also on the plant are visible traces of vital activity of thrips: like streaks of silvery shade on flowers and leaves.

In hot weather, it is important to spray the flower with water to avoid excessive dryness of the air. Regular inspection of the lower surfaces of the leaves will help notice and eliminate the problem. To get rid of most of the pests will help washing the flower with soapy water.

Effective against thrips are:

• Spraying tedione (25%) with thiophos (0.05%);
• Spraying twice a solution of pyrethrum (1 g per 0.5 l of water) at weekly intervals;
• Processing infusion of tobacco and yarrow;
• Use of drugs Nurell-D, Vertimek;
• Use of phosphamide or metaphos (toxic).

This article is often read:

Shchitovka

Shchitovki - pests insects up to 3 mm brown, gray or yellowish. Covered with a wax "shield", hence the name. Strongly stick to the leaves, especially on the underside.

Pests can be seen with the naked eye. Damaged leaves can be deformed, brown-yellow spots appear on them. Growth and development stop, affected areas may die.

The pest shield protects them from most insecticidal drugs. Treatment scypivka on indoor plants is to   scraping insects from flowers.

Then the flower is treated with warm water and laundry soap dissolved in it. Also effective infusion of tobacco dust in a proportion of 40 grams per 0.5 liter of water.

Redhead

The mealybug is a close relative of the scale. It affects the shoots, leaves, buds. Damaged areas appear dotted with fluff like cotton wool. Placed in colonies.

White fluffy formations on the lower parts of the leaves are clearly visible. The plant is stuck in growth, the leaves wither, turn yellow, gradually fall off.

The worm is affected by fuchsia, palm, lemon, azalea, asparagus, begonia, dracaena, and others.

It is necessary to mechanically remove pests with a cotton swab dipped in soapy water. Also effective treatment with alcohol or tincture of calendula. Of the insecticides are applicable: Nurell-D, Aktelik, Vertimek.

Earthworms

Due to the wide movements of earthworms, the plant can receive less moisture. In the absence of organic residues, they can switch to the living roots of the flower. The plant may gradually wither.

A pot with a flower to put in warm water for 30 minutes. The worms will come out by themselves, and they can be removed. When transplanting adults it is easy to see and remove.

Tails

Horntails are small, jumping white insect pests. Appear on the surface of the earth in pots with any plants. The cause of infection may be excessive watering and high humidity.

Watering must be reduced so that the earth dries out a little.. Land in a pot must be sprinkled with dry sand.

Knowledge of the signs of major diseases and pests, as well as effective ways to combat them, will help preserve the health and beauty of the green “pets”!

Downy mildew

Downy mildew is a rare fungal disease. It affects all kinds of plants.

The first sign of the disease is the appearance on the upper side of the leaves of yellow spots of irregular shape. Gradually, they increase in size, and necrosis forms in their center. On the underside of the leaf you can see a light gray patina of fungal spores.

Over time, the bloom turns black, and the affected leaves become deformed, turn yellow and dry. With a strong defeat of the plant, the fungus penetrates into its vascular system. On cut, leaf veins have dark color.

The cause of the disease is the presence of spores of the fungus in the soil used for planting a houseplant. The spread of the disease contributes to increased humidity and lack of fresh air in the room. The disease often manifests itself in flowers growing on acidic clay soils.

For the treatment of fungicidal drugs used. They sprayed the plant at the first signs of the disease. The treatment is repeated every 10 days until the complete disappearance of the disease.

As a preventive measure, it is necessary to conduct mandatory disinfection of soil mixtures for plants. Also it is necessary to observe the mode of watering and to prevent stagnation of water in the soil.

Mosaic disease

Mosaic disease is a common viral disease of indoor and garden plants. Virus penetration occurs through damaged tissue. The pathogen for a long time can be stored in the soil or on plant residues.

The first signs of the disease are a variety of light spots on the surface of young leaves. Over time, the spots grow in size and can cover the entire leaf blade. Affected plants lag far behind in growth and development. Their leaves shrink and get irregular shape.

The cause of the disease is damage to the shoots and leaves by pests, resulting in the penetration of the virus. The development of the disease contributes to a temperature rise to 30 ºС.

There is no effective treatment for mosaic disease.   In a plant partially affected by a virus, it is possible to remove all diseased areas. With a strong lesion, the diseased plant is recommended to be destroyed.

To prevent this disease, it is necessary to observe the thermal regime in the room with plants. Ticks, aphids, bedbugs and other pests that contribute to the spread of the disease, destroy.

Anthracnose

This is a fungal disease that affects leafy plates, shoots and fruits of the plant. Ficuses and palms of various kinds are most often affected.

The symptom of the disease is the appearance of dark spots on the leaves and shoots of the plant.. There are several pathogenic fungi that cause anthracnose, so the outward manifestation of the disease depends on the type of pathogen.

Spots come in various sizes and shapes with a yellowish, reddish or brown color. Over time, the disease leads to the death of leaves and shoots. Its development contributes to high humidity and air temperature.

To combat the disease using fungicides: Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, colloidal sulfur. In order to prevent disease, it is recommended to steam the soil before planting the plants, to seed the seeds, and to re-plant the newly acquired plants in quarantine.

Ascohitosis

This fungal disease is quite rare. It affects all kinds of plants, but indoor chrysanthemums suffer the most. The causative agent is a fungus of the genus Ascochyta.

At the onset of the disease, small, up to 2 mm, brownish or reddish specks appear on the leaves and shoots of the plant. With the development of the disease, the spots increase, acquire a dark brown color with a yellow border. The developing necrosis leads to the death of the leaves and the breaking of the shoots.

Pathogenic fungi spread with soil and water, are carried by the wind. They are extremely resistant to extremes, temperatures, withstand both significant heating and freezing.

For the treatment using various fungicidal preparations.   A diseased plant is sprayed with them every 7-10 days until the infection is completely eradicated. In order to prevent it, it is recommended to ignite the purchased soil mixture in the oven, remove and destroy all suspicious leaves and plant shoots.

Septoria

This is a common fungal disease. Its pathogens are fungi of the genus Septoria.

On the leaves of plants affected by septoria, dark spots of irregular shape appear. Gradually, they increase, spreading to the entire leaf plate. As the disease develops the leaves dry out. Complete loss of foliage ends with the death of the plant.

The pathogens are found in the soil, but the disease itself may not manifest itself, if the fungus does not create ideal conditions. It reproduces well in conditions of high humidity and temperature not lower than 28ºС.

For the treatment of the disease use such popular antifungal drugs as Bordeaux mixture, colloidal sulfur and others. There is also a large range of special fungicidal preparations for indoor plants.

For the prevention of septoria, it is necessary to observe the irrigation regime and not re-moisten the soil.   It is useful to create air circulation in the room, to reduce the humidity. Be sure to conduct disinfection of new soil mixture and seed dressing.

Fusarium

Fusarium or fusarium wilt is a very common infection that affects all types of indoor plants. The causative agent of the disease is a fungus of the genus Fusarium.

A pathogenic fungus that causes fusarial wilt develops in the plant tissues, blocking its conducting vessels. At the initial stages, this disease cannot be detected by eye. It becomes visible only with time, when the leaves of the plant turn yellow, curl and wither. The appearance of rot with a pink bloom at the base of the stem indicates infection with Fusarium.

The source of fusarium often becomes the soil and planting material. The development of the disease contributes to the lack of lighting and elevated temperature.

For the treatment of the disease using fungicidal drugs:   Fitosporin, Trichodermite, Baktofin. To prevent infection, reject diseased and suspicious plants and seedlings, pickle the bulbs and seeds in biological fungicides.

A good preventive effect has a weak solution of potassium permanganate. They are once watered at the root of the plant after planting.

Rust on plants

Rust is a common fungal disease of garden plants. Under favorable conditions, it can affect various indoor species.

At the onset of the disease, small round brown tubercles appear on the leaves of the plants. On the back of the sheet visible oval pads - pustules. The spread of infection leads to an increase in the number of tubercles. Leaves completely turn yellow and fall off.

Pathogenic fungi can get to the indoor plants to the ground. If the fruit trees in the garden are rusty, then you can not take the land for planting from this garden. Favorable conditions for the development of the disease creates a high humidity.

Treatment of the disease is possible only in the early stages.. To do this, remove all the affected areas of the plant and treat it with fungicidal agents. Traditional preparations are used (Bordeaux mixture, blue vitriol) and modern antifungal compounds for indoor plants. Good results give Oksikom, Ordan and Topaz. Fitosporin and Baktofit against rust are not effective.

For prevention it is necessary to observe the irrigation regime, not to overwet the soil and air the room. New planting material and soil mixture disinfected.

Gray rot

This fungal disease is ubiquitous. Its pathogens can be in the soil or on the remains of plants for a long time without losing their disease-causing properties.

Gray rot is similar to gray mold with an olive sheen. It is formed on the shoots of the plant. The places of defeat expand over time. If the rot girdles the escape, then it stops growing and dies off. In the future, the gray coating goes to the leaves of the plant.

Fungi are spread by wind and water.   They enter the plant tissue through external damage. Very often, the cause of gray rot is a plant damage by pests. Also, this contributes to high humidity and poor lighting.

For small lesions, diseased leaves are removed, and the plant itself is treated with Fitosporin and Topsin-M as fungicides. For the treatment of a strongly affected plant, Fundazol is used. Flowers are sprayed with these preparations, and repeated processing is carried out in 7-10 days.

For the purpose of prophylaxis, they disinfect the soil, air the rooms, increase the illumination, and remove the dead leaves. With a cool plant content, it is necessary to avoid over-wetting the soil.

Root rot

Root rot - a whole group of fungal diseases that cause pathogenic fungi of various species. It affects all kinds of indoor plants except the most moisture-loving. Particularly susceptible to these infections of plants, not tolerating waterlogging - cacti and other succulents.

Infection begins through the root system. Therefore, in the early stages of this disease is difficult to diagnose. Over time, if the plant is large enough and overgrown, its leaves begin to turn yellow and fade. A black rot appears at the bottom of the stem. The plant dies. Young specimens rot much faster, their leaves do not even have time to turn yellow.

The source of infection are unsterilized soil, pots and equipment.   The development of the disease contributes to the stagnation of moisture in the soil at low temperatures, as well as a dense soil that prevents the penetration of oxygen to the roots of the plant.

In the early stages of the disease, the plant is saved by an immediate transplant into a new, sterile primer. The root system is examined, rotten roots are removed. Good results are obtained by introducing into the soil after transplanting the solution of Fundazol under the root. With the complete decay of the root, the plant must be destroyed.

For the prevention of root rot, soil, flower pots and tubs are carefully disinfected. When watering indoor flowers should not overmoisten the land in a pot. Excess water from pallets must be regularly drained. During cold wintering, watering plants noticeably reduces.

Jaundice

This common and very dangerous viral disease affects almost all types of indoor plants. The causative agent is Leptomotropus callistephi virus.

In infected plants, leaves change color.   On them are formed yellow and yellowish-white small areas. Over time, such sites become more and more, leaves change shape, and new ones grow deformed. The shoots are also deformed, the flowers become shallow and do not give fruit. Infected specimen develops poorly and lags far behind in growth.

Jaundice virus spreads pests of garden and indoor plants. It enters the tissue through external damage.

Effective jaundice treatment is not developed. In the initial stages of the disease, all affected shoots are removed, the sections are disinfected with alcohol. If the plant is completely infected, it is destroyed.

In order to prevent the destruction of pests that carry viruses from diseased plants to healthy ones. Affected plants are not used for harvesting cuttings.

Whitefly

Common pest of garden and indoor plants. It affects most species in room culture.

Whitefly breed on houseplants in large numbers. They are visible to the naked eye. These are small whitish midges, soaring from a flower when touched to it by hand. They live on the underside of the leaves, often covering them completely. There they lay their eggs.

Whitefly feeds on plant sap.   They, like aphids, emit a sticky liquid that covers the leaf plates, preventing the penetration of oxygen to them.

When a pest is detected, it is necessary to immediately begin measures to destroy it.

Insecticidal agents are used to combat pest. But it is very difficult to fight this insect. When spraying, the whiteflies fly away, and then, when the drug disappears, they re-sit on the plant.

The complete destruction of insects takes at least 1. month. Every week it is necessary to spray not only affected, but also neighboring plants. Window sills and window frames where whiteflies may be located should also be treated. Usually used drugs such as Vertimex, Fitoverm or Aktelik

For the fight against insects also use glue traps. They will help get rid of scattered whiteflies.

Prevention of diseases in indoor plants

Even if you know how to cure diseases of indoor plants, it is always easier to prevent disease.

In order for your indoor flower to always be beautiful and healthy, regular disease prevention is necessary. The plan of preventive measures includes the observance of the correct mode of irrigation and maintaining the necessary humidity. It is recommended to spray the plants with chamomile and sage infusions weekly in order to increase their immunity. After watering, excess water from the pallets must be drained.

It is useful to regularly ventilate the room where the flowers grow room. Indeed, many fungal infections develop only with very high humidity and air stagnation. When airing the flowers from the room need to endure.

For the prevention of all diseases, regular plant nutrition is necessary to enhance their immunity.. Potted plants 1-2 times per season are fed with organic fertilizers. From late spring to mid-autumn, it is recommended to feed every two weeks with complex complex fertilizers. There are compositions for decorative leafy and flowering plants. The whole second half of the autumn and winter feeding do not spend

Before transplanting plants, new soil must be sanitized. You can steam it or warm it in the microwave. Seeds before sowing soaked in solutions of antifungal drugs.

Most viral infections penetrate plant tissue through external damage. For their prevention, it is necessary to destroy harmful insects that damage leaves and shoots.

Now you know everything about diseases and pests of indoor plants and flowers.

Most often, domestic plants suffer from diseases of fungal nature and the activity of insect pests. First of all leaves and root system are affected. According to the characteristic signs of lesions, you can determine the cause of diseases of indoor plants and promptly eliminate it.

High temperatures and high humidity are an excellent environment for the development of bacteria. For this reason, spray and water the flowers should be in moderation, since excess moisture increases the likelihood of the spread of pathogens.

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    Alternaria

  Alternaria disease refers to diseases of the fungal nature, in which the leaves, tubers and stems of the plant are covered with brown spots. Pathogens - mushrooms of the genus Alternaria. First, the disease affects the lower leaves, and then the lesion rises above in concentric circles. Over time, the spots blacken and grow. Alternaria disease progresses with sudden temperature changes.

  The best environment for the development of microorganisms is a warm and moist microclimate, when the humidity in the room is 90% and the temperature is + 30 ° C.

  Preventing such a disease is good ventilation. Ventilation helps fight mold. Also, one should not allow a high density of shoots to eliminate the source of bacteria: excess branches with leaves should be promptly removed.

  

    Anthracnose

  The disease is caused by deuteromycetes of the genera Gloeosporium, Colletotrichum, Kabatiella. The spots on the affected leaves may have a different shade: sometimes they are gray-yellow, in other cases brown or purple. Growing, spots get a brown shade. On them is the formation of spores, which manifest themselves in the form of hairs. In these places, the surface of the sheet is rough.

  The fungus is resistant to frost and spreads with irrigation. Develops at high humidity and elevated temperatures.

  In the initial stages of the disease, the affected leaves are removed, and watering of the plant is reduced to reduce moisture. Plants are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture, copper sulphate, Strob anti-fungal preparation.

  

  Ascohitosis

  Phytopathology is accompanied by the appearance on the leaves of small brown spots with a diameter of 1-2 mm. Growing, they darken, forming a yellow border along the edge of the spot. When a disease infects a stem, a fracture occurs at the site of infection. The first signs of the disease appear as drying of the tips of the leaves. On the border with the healthy part there is a darkened, brown stripe.

  Fungus - the pathogen is very stable, withstands frost and drought well. Transferred with water droplets while spraying. Control measures are the same as with anthracnose.

  

    Downy mildew

  The disease is triggered by the activity of fungi - oomycetes. At the initial stage of the disease, yellow spots of irregular configuration appear on the upper part of the leaf plate. After a while they turn brown and then turn brown. A gray bloom appears on the lower half of the sheet, which then turns black. Diseased leaves are collected in the corrugations, turn yellow and fall off. In the later stages of the disease affects the vascular system of the plant. On the cut, it manifests itself in the form of darkened vessels.

  

  The ideal conditions for the development of phytopathology are:

  • high acidity of the soil substrate;
  • high humidity;
  • limited access to fresh air, poor ventilation of the room.

  The source of the disease is poor seed and ground disinfection. In order to prevent the seeds before planting, kept in water at a temperature of + 50 ° C for 20 minutes. Warm seeds fall for 3 minutes in cold water, and then dried in air.

  Low humidity is maintained indoors. Bushes require constant thinning to improve air access. In order to disinfect the soil periodically needs to be changed.

  When the disease has spread to the plant, the infected leaves and side branches are removed. Spraying is carried out with Bordeaux mixture, Bravo or Quadris preparations. If the soil is already contaminated, spraying is excluded.

  To avoid powdery mildew, household plants should not be fertilized with nitrogen fertilizers, especially when budding is in progress. Since spores easily travel a considerable distance, bacteria can be brought from the trees outside the window. The development of the disease affects the lack of air, but drafts are also contraindicated. Treat affected buds with sulfur, whey or milk.

  

    Leaf Rust

  With this disease, rusty spots appear on the leaves. If they are rubbed in the hand, a powder is formed. This disease also applies to fungal. It appears as a result of abundant watering, lack of adequate lighting and lack of fresh air.

  Sometimes the disease enters the ground with the seeds. It is impossible to recognize it in advance, therefore, before planting, the soil and seeds are processed with potassium permanganate. The spores of the fungus can be brought in by the wind if the flower pot is on the window. Therefore, in spring all plants should be treated with Bordeaux mixture for the purposes of prevention. If rust strikes a small part of the leaves, they should be removed.

  The appearance of rust spots can be caused by improper dosage of fertilizers. If the soil substrate has not changed for a long time, the ground should be completely replaced.

Here are the most common plant diseases that occur in indoor flowers. Attention: on any plants in case of violation of agrotechnology (gulf, overcooling, fertilizer overfeeding) or when planting in non-disinfected soil, signs of several diseases can appear. In the world around us, not one and not two types of microorganisms, but millions. We can guess the disease by single characteristic spots. There are specific diseases that cannot be confused with anything: gray rot (long threads of gray mold), powdery mildew (leaves are as if covered with white dust), dropsy of leaves in succulents (green pimples, the plant is not depressed), ring patterns from viruses and some others.

But very often plants have several diseases at the same time, for example, orchids have tracheomycosis (Fusarium) and at the same time Septoria or phyllosticosis. Root rot and Alternaria. The good news is that the ones offered in the store are usually effective against many diseases. But do not forget that for private households (that is, for the home), preparations of hazard class 3 and 4 are permitted.

Alternaria and dry spotting

Pathogen - mushrooms of the genus Alternaria. The fungus mainly affects the leaves, sometimes the stems and tubers.

Symptoms: first appear dry brown spots, primarily on the lower, and then on the upper leaves. Concentric circles are usually visible on the spots. With increasing spots, it gradually turns black, and gray conidia appear on it.

Frequent changes in temperature and changes in humidity, i.e. alternation of dry and wet periods. But the optimal conditions for the development of the fungus at temperatures above about 25-30 ° C and humidity up to 90%.

Prevention

Avoid plant thickening, while cutting out excess branches and leaves. Ventilate the room or the greenhouse, if the flowers are on the balcony, make sure that there is good ventilation and mold does not grow along the walls - this is an indicator of microclimate disturbances.

Control measures

Fungicides applied to fight against Alternaria:

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• acrobat wc 20 g per 5 l of water
• oxy 20 g per 10 l of water
• home 40 g per 10 liters of water
• vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Anthracnose

The causative agent is the fungi of the genera Colletotrichum, Gloeosporium, Kabatiella. Often susceptible are palms, rubber plants, anthurium, etc.

Symptoms: The disease affects the leaves, stems, petioles and fruits of plants. Spots on different plants, and depending on the pathogen look different.

• Kabatiella zeae - causes the formation of small round or irregular spots, 2-5 mm in diameter with a clear contour. Looks like a yellow spot, with a brown or black dot inside. If the spot is larger, instead of a black dot, a dark rim is formed, and inside it a grayish ring.
• Colletotrichum orbiculare - causes the formation of usually reddish-brown, often with a light yellow border spots, from 2 to 12 mm. Some plants have pale green spots. The shape is rounded or elongated. In the affected areas, the spots merge, dry out, become like parchment, crack, holes are formed.
• Colletotrichum trichellum - large yellowish-brown or gray-brown spots on the leaves and stems with dark pads of sporification. If you look closely, it is noticeable that on the spots on the upper side of the sheet, the surface is not smooth, but covered with fluffy hairs spores, however, the spores are noticeable already with a strong defeat of the plant. On fruit spots are gray-brown with a dark middle, depressed.

Anthracnose develops rapidly in greenhouse conditions, i.e. at high humidity (about 90-100%) and elevated temperature of 22-27 °. And also with frequent (several times a day) spraying of plants. The fungus is frost-resistant - it is stored in plant residues, in seeds and spreads with water during watering.

Prevention

Removing leaves with suspicious stains, disinfecting the ground, seed dressing. Suspicious plants purchased in the store to quarantine. If there are signs of disease, stop spraying the plants.

Control measures

Spraying, usually three treatments are enough, using fungicides:

• 15-20 g per 10 liters of water
•   : 100 g per 10 liters of water
• colloidal sulfur: 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
• strobe fungicide, in system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 l of water
• abiga-peak: 50 g of suspension per 10 l of water

Ascohitosis

The causative agent is a fungus of the genus Ascochyta. The most severe lesions are caused by ascochitis of chrysanthemums, which are most often affected by the plants of the family of the flowers

Symptoms: at the initial stage, small leaves appear on the leaves, only 1-2 mm reddish or brown specks, sometimes brown, reddish with a yellowish or brown rim, of different shapes. The spots increase in size and acquire a dark brown necrotic shade with a yellowish chlorotic border around the edge. Small black spores of the fungus can be seen only under magnification magnifying glass. If the growth of the fungus on the stem rings it, then the stem is easily cracked.

Sometimes the disease begins with signs of desiccation of the plant — the tips of the leaves begin to dry out, and a dark brown stripe forms on the border with healthy tissue. The pathogen is very resistant to deep temperature changes, i.e. tolerates, as well as severe drought, and freezing the soil. It is stored on plant residues, seeds. The disease spreads with wind, non-disinfected soil, water droplets.

Prevention and treatmentas with

Dropsy of leaves (edema)

A disease caused not by a fungus or bacteria, but caused by over-wetting of the soil, often with a lack of lighting. It manifests itself usually in succulents, typical of peperomium, fatty, kalanchoe, possibly in pelargonium, sheffler.

Symptoms: the plant, most often on the underside of the leaf appears barely noticeable pimples, seems watery, but in fact dense, sometimes, like cork growths, some look like warts, the color of the leaf may persist, i.e. spots are green, may become gray necrotic color. It is caused by the fact that part of the roots dies off (from drying out, overwetting, overcooling), the power supply through the conducting vessels, which were supplied with these roots, is disturbed. Since the waterlogging is not strong, the ground had time to dry, rotting did not spread further, but the stains remained. The affected leaves will no longer recover, but if the plant is provided with good conditions, the new leaves will be healthy.

The difference between dropsy (edema) and other diseases of root rot is that the plant is not depressed, it grows noticeably, and the spots themselves in small areas, affect 1-3 leaves on a bush. Leaves with dropsy do not turn yellow, do not dry out and do not fall off!

Treatment and prevention:   Adjust the watering, do not pour, after abundant watering and when compaction of the soil in a pot, puff the earth. Make up the soil with a high proportion of draining, loosening particles - at least 1/5 or 1/4 of the pot volume.

Downy mildew (perinosporosis)

The causative agents are the fungi of the genera Peronospora, Plasmopara, Pseudoperonospora, Mildew. The disease can affect any indoor plants, but the disease is quite rare.

Symptoms: on the upper side of the leaves are formed yellow, then brown spots of irregular shape, with a false powdery rose of cucumbers, angular spots (specific structure of the leaf). Gradually, necrosis occurs at these sites, and the spots become brown. On the underside of the leaves, at the beginning of the disease, a light gray bloom from the conidial sporulation of the pathogen, which leaves the leaf surface through the stomata, then this bloom gradually turns black. Diseased leaves turn yellow, become wrinkled or crinkled, wither and dry. The pathogen with a high degree of damage can penetrate into the vascular system, which is noticeable at the cut in the form of darkened vessels (mycelium and spores).

The disease prevails on heavy acidic soils. Exacerbated by the spread of high humidity and poor ventilation. The source of infection is non-disinfected soil and seeds.

Prevention

Maintaining low humidity, regular airing, thinning and cleaning of bushes. Change of soil and its disinfection. If signs of the disease are already detected, avoid spraying and when watering the water on the leaves.

Seed preparation for sowing:

• immersing them in hot water at 50 ° C for 20 minutes, followed by rapid cooling in cold water for 2-3 minutes
• soaking in a seed dressing, for example, the drug Maxim

Control measures

Removal of diseased leaves and heavily affected branches. You can use drugs containing copper: oxyhim, cuproxate, 1% solution, ordan. These fungicides are more accessible (cheap and effective) for the treatment of garden and garden plants. You can get more modern products: quadris, bravo - but they are not sold in small packaging, they are intended only for agriculture (in cans and bottles), gardeners usually buy them in collective purchases.

For a simple grower fungicides are available:

• topaz 4 ml per 10 l of water
• abiga-peak 50 g of suspension in 10 liters of water
• 15-20 g per 10 liters of water, thrice

To begin treatment at the first signs of the disease and repeat every 7-10 days, especially carefully treat the underside of the leaves. You need to spend at least 3-4 treatments.

Preparations: pure flowers, swift, rajok are ineffective against downy mildew.

Mealy dew

A common plant disease caused by the fungi of the species Podosphaera fuliginea, Erysiphe cichoracearum and Oidium - powdery mildew on grapes Oidium.

Symptoms: at the beginning of the disease, small powdery spots appear on the flowers and leaves. They are easily erased, but then appear again and increase in size, becoming saturated gray. Gradually mycelium compacted and becomes almost brown. Mealy bloom can be on both sides of the leaf. The leaves gradually dry up, the buds and flowers fall off, the growth of the plant stops. The most favorable conditions for the development of the disease - high humidity - about 60-80% and warm air within 15-26 ° C.

From home-grown plants, mealy dew most often strikes: laurel, saintpaulia, gloxinia, roses, gerberas, kalanchoe, etc.

Prevention

For the prevention of powdery mildew of indoor plants and flowers, it is possible to carry out sulfur pollination 3-4 times over the summer. Over-feeding of plants with nitrogenous fertilizers, especially during the budding period, increases the risk of powdery mildew. On the contrary, fertilizing with phosphate and potash fertilizers increases the resistance to the pathogen of powdery mildew. You should also ventilate the room more often, avoiding cold drafts. Pay attention to the bushes and trees that grow under your windows, if they have signs of disease, you always need to be alert - the spores of the fungus are easily carried by the wind.

In addition to treatment with sulfur, it is possible to carry out prophylactic spraying with whey (skim). Normal whole milk is also suitable, but whey is preferable (fewer traces on the leaves), you need to dilute with water in a ratio of 1: 3 and spray the plants. For prevention, repeat after 2 weeks.

Powdery mildew at home

If powdery mildew has got on indoor flowers, and especially violets (saintpaulias), pot gerberas, and room roses are particularly susceptible, then the same means can be used as for garden plants, except for highly toxic (baileton), but preference should be given to such fungicides like topaz soon

You can use drugs Chistotsvet, Scor, Rajok - they are all available in small packaging, contain difenoconazole, dilute 2 ml per 5 l of water. For fruit trees, vegetables and berries, we dilute 2 g per 10 l of water, maximum 4 treatments: first - on the green cone, the rest - in 12-14 days, stop processing 20 days before harvest.

It is safe enough to spray mildew at home with a solution of soda ash and copper sulphate: dilute 10 g of soda ash and 2 g of soap (household, tar) in 1 liter of water, dissolve 2 g of copper sulphate separately in a glass of water. Pour the copper solution into the soda solution, add water to a liquid volume of 2 liters and spray the plants.

If you have heard a prescription for powdery mildew antibiotics from someone, do not try to repeat, penicillins, tetracyclines and other antibiotics do not act on fungal infections, as a last resort, they will help you from bacteriosis, but no more.

You can use drugs such as Topaz, Vectra, Home, Oxyhom, Bordeaux mixture (1%). How to get rid of powdery mildew on gooseberries, currants, roses and other garden crops - read more:.

Helps in the quality of prevention and treatment of spraying with iodine solution: dilute 1 ml of alcoholic pharmaceutical iodine tincture in 1 liter of water. Roses can increase the concentration - dilute 1 ml per 400 ml of water.

Septoria

The causative agent - mushrooms of the genus Septoria.

Symptoms: dark brown or dark gray spots with a yellowish border (on anthurium) or, like azaleas, small reddish or reddish yellow spots, which gradually increase. Then blackening appears on the spots in the center - the fruiting bodies of the fungus, which can even winter on the leaves at minus temperatures and the disease will begin to spread in the spring. Some forms of septoria have different manifestations (depending on the type of plant):

• The causative agent of Septoria albopunctata - looks like small 2-5 mm reddish-purple or brown spots with a gray center. With the development of the disease, the spots increase, and in the center of some of them small dark brown or black spores of the fungus can be seen. Over time, the spots merge, turn brown, and the sheet dries out. Ideal conditions for the development of the disease - high humidity and temperature in the range of 28-31 °.
• The causative agent of Septoria populi, the so-called white spot, first causes the formation of small whitish or gray spots with a brown rim around the edge, round or oval.

Prevention

Removing leaves with suspicious stains, disinfecting the ground, seed dressing. With signs of disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the leaves, improve air circulation (ventilation).

Treatment of septoria

When the spots have already appeared and spread further, spraying should be carried out using chemicals: among them are 1% solution popular in horticulture (100 g of copper sulphate + 100 g of lime per 10 l of water should be diluted strictly according to instructions), copper oxychloride solution ( , oxy), blue vitriol (100 g per 10 liters of water). And:

• colloidal sulfur 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
• strobes in the system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 l of water
• abiga peak 40-50 g per 10 liters of water
• fungicides: pure flowers, fast, rajok, diskor, keeper - any dilute 4 ml to 5 l of water
• vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Repeat spraying after 7-10 days.

Gray rot

The causative agent - mushrooms Botrytis Botrytis.

Symptoms: most often the affected places are on the stems in the form of a fluffy greyish-olive plaque. With further development, the disease passes to the leaves, ovaries of flowers and fruits.

Over time, the lesion takes the form of dry rot with concentric spots. After a few days, the stain grows and rings the stem. The first week on the spot there is no sporulation of the fungus, it turns pale in the center to a straw-colored, blurred ring-shaped bands become visible. Gray decay is similar to gray friable cotton wool or mold. Necrosis of tissues develops inside the stem, while the vessels die, and the movement of water stops. The escape above this zone is fading.

Prevention

Measures of prevention include soil disinfection during transplantation (heating in an oven or microwave), regular airing of rooms, removal of dying leaves and thinning of seedlings, good lighting. Avoid overmoistening the soil, especially when it is cool, if the flowers are on the balcony in early spring or late summer - in autumn. When transplanting, it is possible to introduce trichodermin, barrier, barrier or phytosporin into the soil (spill soil).

Control measures

At the first signs of the disease, remove diseased leaves and inflorescences. Sprinkle the affected area with charcoal powder, chalk, or wood ash. You can make a paste from the drug Trichodermin (moisten a small amount of powder with water) and also coat the affected areas. Spraying with topsin-M solution (0.1%) or phytosporine solution (diluted to the color of tea). In case of severe damage, spray:

• (0,2%)
• copper-soap solution: 0.2% of copper sulfate and 2% of household soap
• fungicides: pure color, fast, rajek - dilute any 4 ml to 5 l of water

Repeated treatment is carried out in 7-10 days.

Black fungus

Appears in the form of a dry soot film on aucubas, bucs, laurels. Caused by the fungus Capnopodium, settling on secretions of aphids, whitefly, mealybug. The bloom itself is not dangerous for the plant, but it clogs the stomata on the leaves, thereby disrupting the breathing process. The plant slows growth and weakens.

Control measures: timely spraying against pests that form a sweet discharge (aphids, scale insects, thrips). After curing diseases, wipe affected plants with a sponge dipped in soapy water, rinse with warm clear water, treat with phytosporin: take a liquid or paste and dilute in a glass of water to the color of weak tea. Spray the leaves.

Sometimes the black fungus settles on the surface of the leaves affected by other fungi, carefully examine the nature of the spots, put the plant in quarantine.

Leaf Rust

Pathogen - rust fungi, for example, of the genus Phragmidium or Puccinia.

Symptoms: expressed in the appearance on the upper surface of the sheet orange-brown tubercles, sometimes yellow or red round spots. On the reverse side of the sheet are visible pustules - pads (like warts), oval or round. Gradually the spots develop into strips, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Prevention

The disease is provoked by uneven watering and high humidity, but even with good care, infection is possible at home through garden flowers in cut or with new pot plants bought in the store, such as gerberas. The infection can get with garden soil, because rust often affects apples or pears.

Control measures

Remove affected leaves and branches. Spray with fungicides:

• abiga-peak 50 g per 10 l of water
• ballet 1 g per 1 l of water
• vectra 2-3 ml per 10 liters of water
•   10 g per 1 liter of water
• 15-20 g per 10 liters of water
• ordan 20 g to 5 liters of water
• strobe
•   4 ml per 10 l of water
• home 40 g per 10 liters of water

Repeat treatment 2-3 times in 10 days. Biopreparations do not help against rust: phytosporin, baktofit, etc.

Phyllosis (brown spot)

Pathogen - fungi of the genus Phyllosticta. From home flowers are susceptible to hibiscus, roses, orchids, etc.

Symptoms: on the affected plants, small dark reddish or dark purple dots first appear. They grow and turn into brown spots with a purple, almost black border around the edge. The middle of the spot becomes thinner, it dries out and in plants with non-leafy leaves it falls out, holes are formed. When looking through a magnifying glass, you can see black rounded spores on brown spots. The disease spreads with wind, non-disinfected soil, water droplets.

Orchid phyllocytosis appears in small spots about 2 mm in diameter, dark brown, slightly depressed, no holes are formed, the disease is often called “black spot”, because the leaf is dotted with small spots like a rash - the spots do not merge into large ones, remain loose, but the leaf turns yellow, and then the spores of the fungus become noticeable. The disease spreads quite quickly, as orchids are often in an atmosphere of high humidity.

Prevention

Compliance with the rules of care and hygiene - timely watering as necessary, but not more often, pour water only under the root, water should not fall on the root collar, in the leaf axils. Use only warm water for irrigation, without chlorine and salts (iron, calcium). Ensure that plants have enough light, weakened chlorotic leaves are more susceptible to infection. Air the house or rooms, avoiding drafts. Ventilation should be very good - an indicator of proper ventilation - the absence of mold in the bathroom, the perimeter of the window frame, the corners of the rooms. Observe the temperature regime, take into account the species requirements of orchids and other plants - a deviation from the norm and the usual care weakens the immune system.

Treatment of phyllosis

• vectra fungicide - dilute 2-3 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water
• abiga-peak - 50 g per 5 l of water
• strobe - 4 g per 10 l of water
• oxy 20 g per 10 l of water
• fungicides: pure flowers, fast, rajok, diskor, keeper - any dilute 1 ml per 1 l of water
• vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying at the first signs of disease or prophylactic, then subsequent with an interval of 7-10 days. In some plants, you can safely remove the affected leaves (for example, in hibiscus); in orchids, do not rush to cut the affected areas to healthy tissue; this can weaken the plants even more. You can cut the sheet only when it is already very yellow. For the rest to process by spraying.

Root rot

This is a group of diseases caused by a variety of pathogenic fungi of childbirth: Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Phytophthora etc. All these diseases sooner or later appear on the crown, plant tops, but infection starts through the root system. If the pathogen is serious, and the plant is young (cutting, sapling, seedling), then the leaves do not even have time to start to turn yellow - the roots and the lower part of the stem quickly rot.

The most susceptible to root rot are orchids, saintpaulias, cacti and succulents. The reason - a violation of agricultural engineering.

Black leg - the scourge of seedlings, manifested in the decay of the lower part of the shoot, cutting. Rot is the most typical - blackening, softening of tissues. Very part of the black leg is affected by the overmoistening of the soil, poor aeration, if the earth lumps are so dense that around the roots there is a constantly anaerobic environment. The source of infection is not sterilized earth mixtures, implements, pots and crates after diseased plants.

Late blight

This is a kind of root rot. At the same time, the plant at first slows down growth, somewhat fades, the leaves lose their color, become pale, only then the roots rot and the plant dies. The first impression in this disease is that the plant lacks water, but after watering the turgor is not restored, and the leaves fade even more. In plants with dense leaves, leaves do not fade, but are covered with extensive brown spots that begin with the central vein.

Prevention

Choose the right soil for your plants, add more porous, draining materials to structure the soil. Do not use fine river sand or sand from the children's sandbox (quarry) - it cements the earthy mixture! Use small pebbles with a particle size of 3-4 mm, you can buy one in specialized departments and aquarium shops, or sift river pebbles. When planting, add the drug to the plant pot.

Make sure that the soil is not overwetted, water after the permissible degree of drying: if it is indicated that watering is abundant, then the ground should be dry by about 1/2 or 1/3 of the upper part of the pot. If you dip your finger in the ground, you will find that the soil is dry on top, and the inside of the pot is slightly wetter (cooler) - then you can water it.

If the plant is recommended moderate watering, then the soil should dry out completely - if you dip your finger in the pot inside it should also be dry (the finger does not feel that there is cooler, more wet). Of course, you should not stick your fingers into the ground before each watering. Just wait until the soil dries on top and wait another 2-3 days, before watering, so that she has time to dry in the depths. And if it is suddenly colder, and the temperature has dropped, you may need to wait even longer - 5-7 days before the next watering.

For reproduction of indoor plants, cut off only healthy cuttings and leaves. Be sure to sterilize the ground for planting cuttings, especially if you plant very susceptible to late blight and root rot (for example, Hesneria, gardenias, Schefflera). Old, already used pots in which the plants died must be scalded with boiling water.

Before planting, soak the seeds in a disinfectant, use, for example, the drug Maxim.

Control measures

With a large development of root rot, when a significant part of the roots has died, and most of the shoots have wilted, have lost their elasticity, the treatment is useless. If the cutting of the stem or twigs has turned black on the rooting, it can be cut off, put phytosporine into the water and put it back on the rooting.

If the plant shows signs of wilting, the soil is damp and you need to urgently remove the plant from the pot. Flush the root system, remove the rot. If healthy roots still persist, process them (soak for a few minutes) in the fungicide solution:

• alirin B - 2 tablets per 10 liters of water
• hamair - 2 tablets per 1 l of water
• ordan 5 g per 1 liter of water
•   3 ml to 2 liters of water
• baktofit 10 ml per 5 l of water
• oxyh 10 g per 5 l of water
• home 20 g per 5 liters of water
• vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spotting

This is a whole group of diseases that have both fungal and bacterial nature.

Pathogens - fungi of childbirth Ascochyta, Colletotrichum, Phyllosticta, Pestalotia, Septoria, Vermicularia   and others. Spots are diseases that are difficult to identify, they can be anthracnose, septoriosis, phyllossticosis, ascochytosis, but the characteristic nature of the spots is not pronounced. At the same time on the leaves of the plant appear brown spots, which with the spread of the disease grow in size, merge and affect the whole leaf. If the plant is strong enough, resistant to disease, or it is very well looked after, the spots grow slowly and the leaves dry out as slowly.

Blemish Prevention

Contribute to the development of diseases violations of conditions of detention. This overmoistening is especially aggravated by overcooling of the root system (after watering with cold water or during transportation from the store home during the cold season). Spotting can also develop in warm, humid conditions, especially when poor air circulation and planting in dense clay soil.

Avoid overcrowding and excessive watering. Regularly ventilate the room, greenhouses and provide good light. For prevention, water the plants with a solution of the drug or baktofit. You can add to the pots when planting pills of the drug.

Control measures

In garden conditions, you need to collect and destroy any plant debris stained with dead plants. At home flowers prune affected leaves and branches. Spray with fungicides that can cope with most fungal infections.

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• acrobat wc 20 g per 5 l of water
• oxy 20 g per 10 l of water
• home 40 g per 10 liters of water
• alirin B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
• 1% solution Bordeaux fluid (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime in 10 liters of water diluted)
• copper sulphate: 100 g per 10 l of water
• vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

At home, potted flowers need to be treated with more affordable and simple means: use the Chistotsvet, Scor, Rajok drugs - they are all produced in small packaging, contain the same active ingredient - difenoconazole, need to be diluted with 2 ml per 5 liters of water. Spray the leaves with a solution, repeat after 2 weeks. Add zircon (6 drops to 1 l of solution) to the solution of these fungicides Chistotsvet, Scor, Rajok.

Red burn

The causative agent of the fungus of the genus Stangospore Staganospora. Disease characteristic of Hippeastrum and some bulbous.

Symptoms: red narrow spots appear on the leaves and peduncles, on which later sporiferous crusts form, the scales completely redden in the bulbs. The diseased plant begins to deform the leaves and flowers, the flowering does not start or stops, the bulbs rot.

Treatment

Processing bulbs in fungicides. You can use the drug maxim (soaking the bulbs), but it can cause burns of the buds of the leaves and peduncle - their tips have a very thin epidermis. The third photo - burns from Maxim, although the bulbs are cured, the burns will remain.

Other fungicides can also treat red hippeastrum burns:

• foundation (benomyl) 1 g per 1 l of water
• vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water
• oxy 4 g per 1 l of water

Black spot

Pathogen - fungi of the genus Rhytisma, Dothidella.

Symptoms:

• Rhytisma acerinum - causes the formation of large round spots, initially yellowish and diffuse. Then black dots appear on them, which gradually merge and form black shiny stroma (sagging), surrounded by a yellowish border. Sometimes yellowing around the black stroma may not be.
• Rhytisma salicinum - causes similar lesions, only the spots are more convex, more angular in shape, large and small.
• Rhytisma punctatum - causes the appearance of small, pointed or drop-shaped, brilliantly black and convex stroms.
• Dothidella ulmi - causes the formation of grayish black, rounded stroma; they are convex, initially shiny, later rough as warts.

Contributes to the spread of the disease combination of conditions: high humidity, shading and high temperatures.

Control measures

Spraying fungicides:

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• acrobat wc 20 g per 5 l of water
• benomyl (foundation) 1 g per 1 liter of water
• vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
• oxy 20 g per 10 l of water
• home 40 g per 10 liters of water
• alirin B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying thrice in 10 days.

Tracheomycosis

Tracheomycosis is a group of diseases called vascular wilting   - pathogens enter through the roots and infect the vascular system of plants, clog the lumen of blood vessels with their mycelium, release toxins, the plant does not receive water and nutrients and begins to fade.

Tracheomycosis can be attributed to such diseases as:

• verticilous wilt (verticillus)
• fusarium wilt (fusarium)
• malsekko Citrus

Symptomatology is very similar, all diseases are diagnosed only by laboratory tests, all are incurable, are detected at the stage when pathogenic fungi have already poisoned the vascular system, it is something like blood poisoning in animals. Especially suffer from tracheomycosis orchids, phalaenopsis, dendrobiumy, cattley, etc. Of other indoor flowers: fuchsias, roses, balsam, begonias, geraniums; from garden: petunias, carnations, chrysanthemums, asters, dahlias. Vegetables such as cabbage, celery, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, lettuce, melons, potatoes, pumpkins, radishes, rhubarb are prone to tracheomycosis.

There are also tracheomycosis-resistant plants: Saintpaulias, ageratum, gypsophila, mallow, periwinkle, primrose, zinnia, asparagus, ferns, philodendrons. Of the vegetables are able to resist only corn and asparagus.

In foreign practice, all tracheomycous wilt is simply called: wilt - from wilt - to wither.

Verticilous wilting

Pathogen - mushrooms of the genus Verticillium. It reproduces only asexually - with conidia, infects the roots of plants and poisons xylem tissues: it grows and multiplies systemically throughout the plant.

Symptoms: in the initial stages of the disease, the lower leaves acquire a grayish-greenish color due to the development of meschylcal necrosis. The leaf tissue between the veins turns brown and dries out. Then wilting begins, most of the leaves, starting from the bottom, turn yellow, curl and dry. On the incision of the stem, the browning of the vessels is noticeable. Vessel lumens are filled with a thin multicellular mycelium. Plants are stunted, poorly developed, then die. Sometimes the disease appears on the plant in the shrinking and dying off of individual branches of the bush. If conditions are favorable, the disease passes to other branches and the whole plant dies rather quickly. If unfavorable conditions develop for the development of the fungus, the disease can last for months and a part of the plant looks healthy, and a part dies.

The pathogen is stored in the soil in the form of microsclerotia for several years. The optimum temperature for the germination of sclerotia 25-27 °, humidity 60-70%. The most likely development of the fungus on the soil with a neutral pH = 7-7.5. The spores of the fungus germinate and penetrate into the conductive tissue, where mycelium develops, causing clogging of blood vessels. Since there is a gradual clogging of blood vessels from the bottom up, then the wilting of the leaves begins with the lower leaves and gradually covers the whole plant.

Prevention

Do not use garden soil for indoor plants without pre-treatment: pour 5 cm on a baking sheet, heat to maximum temperature for 20 minutes. Decontaminate the seeds by heating and dressing agents (for example, Maxim fungicide)

Control measures

Chemical agents, due to the peculiar biology of the pathogen (development in soil and distribution in conducting vessels) are ineffective. Treatment is possible only in the initial stages, by spraying with a foundation, Vectra (3 ml per 10 liters of water) or topsin-M at a concentration of 0.2%.

Fusarium (fusarium wilt)

The causative agent - fungi of the genus Fusarium.

Fusarium develops only on weakened plants, primarily in dying off areas. The course of the disease can occur as a tracheomycous wilt or with rotting roots. Plants are affected at any age. The fungus is in the soil and penetrates the plant through the soil and wounds, with water from natural sources, a non-sterile instrument during grafting or pruning. Contributes to the spread of the disease increased humidity of air and soil.

Symptoms: In young plants, the disease manifests itself in the form of rotting of the roots and root collar. In these places the tissues turn brown, the stem becomes thinner, the leaves turn yellow. The affected plants wither the tops of the shoots (loss of turgor), and then the whole shoot. This happens, as in the case of verticillus infection, due to blockage of vessels with toxins and enzymes secreted by fungi. Therefore, darkening of the vessels is also visible on the cross section. But sometimes tracheomycosis manifests itself only in parts of the crown, the rest remains healthy for the time being - then a bush or a tree is oppressed, individual branches are wilted. If during cutting (clean cut without darkening) cuttings from healthy branches, you can root and get a healthy plant.

The rate of progress of the disease depends on how favorable conditions are for the development of the fungus. With high humidity of the soil and air, as well as temperatures above 18 ° C, the disease can ruin the whole plant in a few days. If the humidity is low, then the disease can turn into a chronic form, then the plant slowly fades within 3-4 weeks.

Control measures

Removal and destruction of plants along with a clod of earth. Disinfection of pots with 5% solution of copper sulfate, bleach, or at least scald with boiling water.

If wilting has just begun, then you can try to treat the plant with fungicides:

• vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
• benomyl (foundation) 1 g per 1 l of water for orchids can be 1 g per 100 ml
• alirin B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying three times, with an interval of 7-10 days.

How to treat orchids: get rid of the old substrate (throw out, or boil the bark for at least half an hour). Cut rotten roots. Prepare the fungicide solution, and spray the root system and leaves thoroughly. Leave to dry. Plant in fresh substrate (large pieces of bark, foam, cork). Do not spray, water immersion as needed for a short time (5 minutes is enough). It is desirable to contain diseased orchids at a temperature of 23-24 ° C, without drafts, with very intense, but diffused lighting (possible under the lamps).

The soil for large plantings (growing seedlings and transplanting tub plants) can be prepared by spilling it properly, with a solution of potassium permanganate (pink), a preparation, Maxim, or by adding trichodermine. When working, sterilize tools - a knife, scissors and even a garter (wire, thread) with alcohol.