Roses are not only one of the most beautiful flowers, but also plants that are very demanding to the conditions of planting and care. We will tell you how to plant roses in spring and autumn so that the bushes will take root well and bloom.
Following the tips below, you will learn how to properly prepare the site for planting and will be able to choose the best seedlings for cultivation.
When and how to plant a rose in the ground in spring
For the bush to bloom beautifully for many years, you need to choose the right sprout and plant it. In the future, the plants also require careful care, which includes loosening, watering, fertilizing and loosening for the winter.
It is not enough just to know how to properly plant a spring in the ground, it is also important to choose the most suitable site. The place should be protected from drafts, and the soil should be moderately wet, but without stagnant water.
When disembarking in spring, it is better to start making out a flower bed not earlier than mid-April. These crops are very sensitive to temperature extremes, therefore the soil and air must be sufficiently heated.
The best time to plant roses in spring
Spring is considered the best time for planting a crop (Figure 1). For several warm months, the plants have time to get stronger and fully acclimatize before winter. However, this does not mean that transfer to the ground can be carried out at any time.
Figure 1. Spring landing technology If in the spring it was not possible to transfer the flowers to the flowerbed, it is better to save the seedlings and transplant them in the autumn. High summer temperatures and low soil moisture can adversely affect the growth of bushes.
At what air temperature can you plant roses in spring
To know how to plant a culture in the spring, you first need to decide on the temperature of the air and the soil.
The best time is mid-April and the end of May. At this time, the soil completely thawed out after the winter, and the air temperature stabilized at around 10 degrees. Such conditions are great for flowers.
So that the young shoots do not damage the frost, the bushes for the first time can be sheltered or mulched before the onset of consistently warm summer weather. Shelter will help not only protect plants from temperature extremes, but also help preserve moisture in the soil and prevent weed growth.
When is it best to plant roses in the autumn
If the cultures could not be transplanted into the open ground in spring, the procedure can also be carried out in the fall (Figure 2). September and early October are well suited for these colors in temperature and humidity conditions.
Note: Autumn planting, carried out according to all the rules, will allow the bushes to take root before the onset of frost. Thus in the spring you will receive a fully accustomed plant, ready to bloom.
Figure 2. Proper planting culture in the fall Planting in the fall has several advantages. First, during the summer months, the soil has enough time to warm up, and precipitation falls significantly more than in spring. Secondly, the humidity in the autumn months is great for rooting, so in some cases they take root much faster than the bushes transplanted in the spring.
However, it should be borne in mind that the procedure should be carried out in strict accordance with the technology so that the plants receive enough moisture and nutrients for acclimatization.
You will learn more about autumn planting from the video.
Choosing a place to plant roses in spring
Not only the time when plants are beginning to be planted in open ground is important, but also the place where the flowerbed will be located.
To choose the right plot, follow these guidelines.:
- The place should be closed from drafts, with well-drained soil;
- Do not plant plants in the lowlands with close groundwater storage. This will lead to the accumulation of moisture near the roots and the rotting of the lower part of the stem;
- It is advisable to choose a place with a slight shade so that the leaves and petals are not damaged by the noonday sun.
In addition, the site should be spacious enough so that the bushes can be located at some distance from each other. This will not only give the plants the opportunity to grow, but also greatly facilitate care.
How to choose and prepare the soil
The site should be located on a small elevation, as these flowers do not like overmoistened soil and stagnation of groundwater. In addition, the place must be protected from drafts and cold wind.
Note: To prevent the plants from being damaged by cold air, it is better to plant them near ornamental shrubs or buildings.
The soil is carefully dug and fertilized with rotted manure (Figure 3). Fresh organics can not be used categorically, as it causes rotting of the roots and death of seedlings. It is also recommended to add a glass of wood ash to the ground, and if the soil is acidic, a little lime.
Figure 3. Site preparation for planting In poor areas, the prepared well is filled with a special nutrient substrate of loam, compost, rotted manure and mineral fertilizers.
Preparation of the hole
The depth of the hole depends on the length and width of the roots, as well as the fertility of the soil. For example, on fertile soils, a hole is dug 5-10 cm deeper than the length of the roots. In width, it should be about half a meter. In areas with clay soils, the well is deepened to 70 cm (Figure 4).
Figure 4. Proper preparation of culture wells It is important that in areas with fertile soil, the top layer of soil can be used to prepare the substrate, which is subsequently filled with the hole. If the land is depleted, the soil mixture is better to buy in the store.
Fertilizers when planting in spring also play an important role. In the well, surely bring rotten (not fresh) manure, ashes and mineral fertilizers. This will help the plants to take root in the soil faster.
How to choose and prepare seedlings
When choosing a seedling, it is imperative to inspect its root system. Therefore, it is recommended to buy planting material in specialized nurseries or stores, and not on the Internet. Only in this way can you evaluate the quality of the roots and the viability of the plant as a whole.
The roots of a good sprout can be recognized by such signs.:
- The root system is branched and well developed;
- There are several woody shoots or leaves of a smooth green color (no spots);
- The roots should be bright on the cut;
- On the roots there should be no signs of lack of moisture or mechanical damage.
When buying, it is also advisable to touch the shoots. They should be tight, smooth and shiny. This indicates that the plant is completely healthy and will transfer the transplant normally.
Disinfection of seedlings after purchase
After purchase, all sprouts should be sanitized. To do this, it is enough to immerse the roots in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for several hours (Figure 5). It is necessary to destroy potential pathogens or larvae of pests that may be on the roots.
Figure 5. Processing seedlings before planting In addition, disinfection is necessary because you do not know in which soil the plant was grown. Without treatment, the root system may not settle down in a new place, and the flower will die.
What to do if the seedlings are frozen
It also happens that when buying, we do not notice the frozen parts of the roots or shoots. You should not make a common mistake and throw away the plant. It is quite possible to reanimate and put in the ground. Even frozen cultures can take root, if properly prepared.
First of all, it is necessary to conduct an image of all frozen roots and shoots. The cut is made at the level of healthy wood or part of the root. After that, it is advisable to place the plant in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for several hours.
Planting frozen specimens spend very carefully. Choose a place that is as protected from the cold as possible, and fill the well with a high-quality nutrient substrate. It is also recommended to fertilize the soil with mineral dressings.
If the seedling has dried roots
Often there are saplings that dry up before planting in open ground. You can save the plant, and it will get acclimatized on the flowerbed.
In order to revive dried saplings, they need to be placed in a special nutrient solution for 12 hours. To do this, in 10 liters of water dissolve in a tablespoon of superphosphate and urea and add a few drops of growth stimulant. After that, you can carry out landing. The roots are wrapped in moist clay mixed with the same nutrient solution and placed in a previously prepared well.
How to cut seedlings when planting
Before planting, you need to carefully examine all the seedlings, their shoots and roots. All dried up or damaged parts of the plant must be removed (Figure 6).
Note: Do not be afraid to cut the roots or stems. Damaged roots or shoots will prevent the bush from taking root.
Even healthy roots are shortened so that their length is more than 35 cm. This procedure is also carried out on seedlings with cut roots, only in this case it is enough to simply update the cut.
Figure 6. Pruning seedlings before planting Be sure to shorten and shoots. It is recommended to leave only 2-3 strongest buds. This will help the plant to take root faster, without wasting energy on the development and nutrition of the kidneys. The only exceptions are ground cover varieties that do not prune, but only update root sections.
If there is no possibility to transplant plants immediately, they can be stored in a basement or other room with a temperature not higher than +7 degrees. Roots are wrapped in a damp cloth moistened with water with a few drops of growth stimulant.
Planting a seedling in the hole
Proper planting in the wells is carried out in strict accordance with the technology, since these plants are very sensitive to the nutritional value of the soil and air temperature.
To plant a flower, follow these instructions. (Figure 7):
- Landing is carried out at a temperature of from 0 to +7 degrees. A lower rate will slow down the process of adaptation, and if it is too hot outside, seedlings can get burned.
- You should dig and fertilize the hole in advance. The standard pit size is 45-50 cm deep and 50 cm wide, but on clay soils the hole is made deeper.
- At the bottom of the hole stack nutrient substrate consisting of fertile soil, mineral fertilizers and rotted manure.
- The roots of seedlings are pre-soaked in water for several hours.
- The vaccination should be several centimeters deep in the soil. The earth around the bush is tamped down so that the roots touch the soil more closely.
Figure 7. The procedure for planting seedlings in open ground After that, the ground needs to be watered, and the shoots are better covered with a mound of soil. After 1-2 weeks, the rose will take root, and the shelter can be removed.
At what distance to plant roses from each other
The distance between the bushes depends on the variety. For parks, the minimum distance between seedlings should be at least 75 cm, but if possible, they are placed a meter apart. This is necessary because adult plants form a spreading crown, and their roots need enough space for development.
Polyanthus, hybrid tea and floribunda roses are planted at a distance of 30-60 cm. For climbing grades, the gap must be at least one meter. In addition, care must be taken of the support on which the stems will be fixed.
Hilling seedling after planting
After planting, seedlings require some care, which will speed up the process of acclimatization. First of all, the plants need to be watered and spud. For this, the stems are sprinkled with loose earth (Figure 8). This will give the plants the opportunity to settle down faster in a new place.
Figure 8. Hilling of roses after planting in the ground As a rule, an earthen mound can be removed within 2 weeks after disembarkation. During this time, the rose has time to take root and grow stronger. In the future, the land around the bushes are regularly loosened and watered (in the absence of natural precipitation). It is also necessary to periodically make feeding.
More useful information about the features of planting roses tells the author of the video.
Planting roses in the fall will allow you to enjoy their flowering in the first year of life. Plants planted in spring usually lag behind in development, they are not allowed to bloom, so that they can gain more strength. Many doubt whether it is possible to plant such a delicate flower in the ground in the fall in the middle lane. If you learn how to plant correctly, accurately calculate the time, then in the spring an already rooted sapling will grow faster, it will receive the first hardening by hibernation, which will help it grow further healthy. So it is worth talking about how to plant roses in the fall.
The main nuance in how to plant a rose in the fall, is the timing. How to plant, everyone knows, but when? The answer to this question corrects the weather. The fact is that it is necessary to plant a bush on a plot a month before the onset of the real frosts. Three to four weeks is just enough for the plant to get used to a new place, grow several side roots, prepare gradually along with the cooling of air and earth for a period of rest.
The southern regions can afford to plant roses in October, usually in the second or even third decade.
In the middle lane, it is better to do this, if in October, then in the first decade, and better in the second half of September.
More northern areas suitable beginning of September, or even August. Each grower must determine this time, based on the usual time of occurrence of constant frosts for his area, counting from him at least three weeks.
Video “Landing in the autumn time”
From the video you will learn about the important rules for planting in the autumn.
How to get a seedling
It is best to buy a sapling in a reputable nursery or in a store, where in the fall there is often a substantial discount on such items. Many flower growers plant in the autumn rooted cuttings or plants grown from the seeds of their own roses. 
A suitable time for rooting cuttings is the period from the beginning of the formation of buds until autumn. Those who want to grow own-rooted roses, at the beginning of flowering, cut into semi-woody shoots with 3 - 4 buds and root them in water or soil. By the end of the summer, the cuttings should already have acquired roots and even young twigs.
Seeds from last year’s fruits are sown in the fall or spring; in any case, by the end of the season they have already become young plants with roots that can be planted in a permanent place of growth.
How to choose the best place
Roses grow well in open sunny areas, protected from the north wind and drafts. This may be the southern slope, on which the water will not linger after the rains or melting snow. It is important that groundwater does not come close to the surface, because the rose does not like stagnant water or swampiness. If there is such a threat, it is worthwhile to organize the drainage and raise the flower bed above the general ground level.
The place should be free from other large plants, the shade from trees or buildings should not fall on the flower in the morning and evening hours, shading in the hottest daytime is permissible (and sometimes even desirable).
If you plan to plant several plants, then planted roses should not shade each other, too frequent arrangement of bushes will not allow the air to circulate enough to air them, and this already threatens with diseases. Therefore, you need to keep in mind the size of adult bushes. Usually between them leave from 50 cm to 1 meter, for low bushes less, and for climbing roses - 1.5 m or even more, for standard roses - generally not less than 3 m. When planting climbing roses, you should consider a place for winter shelter .
Best weather
For autumn planting, it is advisable to choose a fine day, no need to deal with it in the rain or snow. Plants are well received in the fall precisely because the weather is right - the air humidity is higher than in spring, and the air and soil temperatures are optimal for the new plant. But, if you plant it at low air temperature, or when cold rain with snow cools the ground, it will doom your actions to failure. If the seedlings are waiting, and the weather turned bad for a long time, then it is better not to risk it, and you can plant roses in the fall next year, and these will have to be left until spring. They are preferably prikopat sand or earth, placed in a cellar or other room where the temperature will be maintained from +1 to +5 degrees. They perezimuyut great, and then they will grow, planted in the spring.
Soil preparation
Roses need light, breathable, non-acidic (or slightly acidic) fertile soil. This is what you need to prepare a few weeks before landing. For this, the plot is cleared of weeds and all plant residues, dug, adjusted, if necessary. Sour soil is corrected by adding lime or dolomite flour, heavy mixed with peat, sand and compost. Then they dig a hole that is larger than the seedling's root system. Its bottom is loosened with forks, the ground taken out of it is mixed with rotted manure, wood ash, and mineral fertilizers are added. 
If the soil is completely sandy, then clay, peat, compost should be added. Clay make dried, ground to a powder.
Roses grow well on manured soils, and prefer horse manure, but it can not be added fresh, just rotted.
Seedlings preparation
When choosing a seedling withopen root system, special attention should be paid to it, its good development is confirmed by the presence of a large number of thin roots. The roots must be healthy, not overdried, without spots or traces of rot, at the cut - light. Shoots also need to be examined, there should be no signs of rot or disease, there should be at least three well-developed healthy shoots. 
A day before planting, the roots should be soaked with water, preferably taken at a distance of not less than +18 degrees. And before planting, the root is shortened to 30 cm, and shoots up to 35 cm, the entire seedling should be treated with iron sulfate for the prevention of diseases. Some growers are advised to dip the roots in a clay mash with the addition of a slurry solution.
Landing
If everything turned out well, on a cool autumn day, you can renew the pit, put a prepared ground on its bottom, place a seedling on it, straighten all the roots on this earthen slide, gradually fall asleep. They do it carefully, pour it a little, then tamp it, then pour earth again. It is necessary to tamp the ground, and then pour water abundantly, make sure that there are no voids, the bush sits firmly, and the graft site is under the ground 5–8 cm below the surface and faces south. Some people advise to lower the root neck even lower, because over time the plant rises a little, and it can open, this can not be allowed. When all the water is absorbed, you should still fill the ground. This was the so-called dry method of planting. 
The wet method differs from it by the use of root growth stimulants, drugs like “Kornevina”. Such a drug is dissolved with water, at least one bucket is poured into the pit, and then the seedling is lowered there, gradually filling the roots with prepared soil. Then they also tamp, check, slightly pulling the top, whether the bush is firmly seated, fill up the ground, sprinkle it on top, mulch.
After 2 - 3 weeks, young plants will get used to a new place, they will have new roots, which means that in the spring they will start growing quickly. The gardener's next task is to cover them well for the winter. Before the very frosts, the bushes are shortened by at least a third, spud dry earth with sand, sawdust, dry leaves by 25 - 30 cm, cover for the winter. Best of all, young roses hibernate under spruce branches and lutrasil, they need to provide dry air under cover so that the shoots are not prone.
Video “phased landing”
From the video you will learn all the stages of proper planting bushes.
How to plant a rose in the fall? Do I need to prune roses for the winter?
Marina, Ulyanovsk
Marina, what kind of rose do you have? What kind and grade? In what form do you have it - a stalk, a sapling with open roots or closed roots, a container? Have you already purchased a rose or are you just going?
By the winter they plant only those varieties of roses that are adapted to local conditions. If your rose is brought in a container from a country with a milder climate than ours, then it will most likely not survive during the autumn planting, as it is not sheltered.
If the seedling is intended for planting with roots, and not a cutting, then it should be planted now - autumn planting is done from mid-September and usually until mid-October.. It is important to choose a moment so that the rose has time to take root, and a further drop in temperature would not allow it to start growing (that is, the plant would “understand” that it is necessary to prepare for wintering). If you guess with the time of planting, the roses planted by the fall are much more successful even take root than those planted in the spring.
Now it is better to hurry, the rose must take root before the frost, otherwise it will not overwinter. Young roots are usually formed 10-12 days after planting, before the onset of frost they must have time to harden and harden.
For planting you need a dug hole measuring 40x40x40 cm. shed well with water, add 2-3 shovels of earth mixed with humus. If you have a sapling with a closed root system, then you need to dig a hole to the size of the earth coma (4-6 cm more). Saplings with an open root system before planting for a day soaked in water, then cut off too long roots, leaving 20-30 cm.
Shoots should also be cut. Only 2-3 of the strongest escapes are left, shortening them so that 2-3 sleeping buds are left on each. The rest of the shoots pruned under the base.
The seedling prepared for planting is lowered into the hole, the roots are spread around the mound of humus from the ground. Then they fall asleep with earth, well tamping it down. Grafted roses are deepened so that the budding site is 2-3 cm below the surface. Kornes own roses can be planted below the level of education of the roots - then they grow new additional roots.
After planting, the seedling is well watered. (water temperature 16-18 ° C), and then spud earthleaving only the top of the shoots outside. For hilling ground do not rake from under the roots, and sprinkle a new one. In the spring, after removing the shelter, you will need to unravel the bush.
Cover roses, planted seedlings for the winter, you need the same way as usual, already growing in your garden. After the first night frosts come and freeze the top layer of soil, the spruce branches are put on the ground with which the roses were piled, then dry leaves or chips are poured with a layer of 15-20 cm, and then another layer of lapniki. Then plastic or metal arcs with a height of 40-50 cm are set over the roses, covered with a layer of wrapping paper (kraft paper), and then with a film, pressing its edges with stones. While the temperature is above minus 10 ° C, the film is pressed loosely, leaving slits for ventilation. In the spring, the film opens slightly to avoid debate. Shelter removed finally, when the threat of frost has passed.
This method is called air-dry, since air space remains between the shelter and the roses. There is another way, when lustrasil or spunbond creeps over the spruce branches, this method is considered less reliable in extreme cold, but if it is not possible to regularly air the greenhouse, you should use it.
Pruning roses for the winter must be done. This also concerns the roses that are already growing in the ground and that they have just been planted. Pruning nevzrevshie shoots, otherwise these shoots will rot under cover and infect the plant with fungus. Naturally cut off all the leaves and buds. Only lignified shoots with dormant buds should remain. At the same time, these abandoned shoots are also shortened - in the climbing large-flowered roses by a third of the length, in the small-flowered climbing roses they are not cut, and in the other types of roses, the shoots are cut to half the length. All plant residues should be destroyed (do not leave under the bush).
If you bought a sapling with fresh, freshly budded, awakened budsthen it’s better not to plant one. His need to try to save until spring. The apartment, of course, is not the best place, but if there is an opportunity for wintering to arrange it on the glazed balcony or in an extension where the temperature does not fall below zero, then it will normally overwinter and spring it will be necessary to plant it in the garden. You can also arrange seedlings for the winter in the “prikope” - roses are buried in a trench. If you risk planting, you need to start letting the seedling take root, and then cut off all the young shoots, then cover them as usual.
If you plant a rose from a cutting, donated by someone of your acquaintances who circumcised theirs in the fall, you can try to plant it like that. The hole is dug up to 50 cm. Centimeters deep, 2/3 full of freshly cut grass, and the top is filled with peat and compost. It all spills water. Sticks are stuck into this prepared soil mixture. Root the cuttings so you can now until the end of October. For the winter, a greenhouse is constructed above them according to the method described above. In spring, the greenhouse is opened for airing, and then removed, when the risk of recurring frosts disappears. The cuttings, covered in this way, successfully hibernate and begin to grow in the spring.
Finally, we’ll add that if you haven’t bought planting material yet, but are only thinking about it, and you are new to rose care, postpone your purchase until spring and plant roses in spring. The fact is that if you have never once covered roses for the winter, it is likely that when you do this for the first time, you will make some mistake - and the roses planted in autumn will die.
There is an opinion that it is better for newbies to plant roses in the spring, and for experienced roses it is possible to do this in the fall., and they themselves usually much more like autumn planting of roses.
Dear readers, your question about the colors you can ask us on the page “ ”, We will try to answer it and publish the answer on the pages of our site.How at the end of autumn roses cover for winter
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30.01.2016
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Planting roses in spring and autumn - when is it better and how to do it right?
The queen of the garden always takes pride of place in the flower beds of almost any experienced gardener, but not every beginner can grow a beautiful, majestic flower. In order for the planting of roses to be successful, there were no disappointments, you need to know the secrets and subtleties of the simple process ...
When is it best to plant roses in the fall or spring?
It is widely believed that planting open-root roses in open ground is best done in the autumn months; in fact, this can be done in the fall, spring and summer. Planting roses in the autumn is preferable for the southern regions of our country, when the autumn is warm and before the onset of frosts the roots of the plant have time to get stronger. The best time is considered the last week of September and the first days of October, after which it is necessary. An earlier planting will give rapid growth of shoots, while the root system of roses does not fully strengthen, most likely, such a plant will die.
In central Russia, the northern regions and the Urals, it is better to plant roses in spring, from mid-April to the end of May, the main thing is that the buds do not start to swell. It is not recommended to carry out the autumn planting of saplings of roses in these latitudes because of the risk of poor rooting of the plant, which can lead to the death of the bush in winter.
on the photo - preparation of roses for planting
Regardless, roses are planted in spring or autumn, you need to refresh the root system by slightly pruning the main roots. The ends of the roots are cut off quite a bit, about 70-90 millimeters, so the root system is refreshed and better grows. Pay attention to the color of the spine when cut, at the healthy root it is white, which means it is alive. Brown color indicates a dead root, you need to cut until white color appears.
It is possible to plant roses in summer, this method of planting is most suitable for container roses with a well-formed root system, which will not be damaged during transplantation. Roses planted in the summer, you need to cover from the direct rays of the sun, well watered in hot dry weather.
How to plant roses: detailed instructions
All beginning flower growers and gardeners are wondering how to plant a rose in spring, autumn and summer, so that next year they will get beautiful and luxuriantly flowering plants. The principles of planting roses are the same for all time periods, in a certain sequence the following steps are performed:
Preparation of fossa. The pit for planting seedlings should be a little larger root system, but deep. Roses develop poorly and grow, if there is a close flow of groundwater in the area, make a drainage (expanded clay aggregate, river pebbles, broken and crushed bricks);
on the photo - preparation of pits for planting roses
Nutrient preparation. It is taken on one part of sand and fertile land, 3-4 parts of humus are added (you can take peat, compost), mix thoroughly. On one small sapling leaves one and a half or two buckets of prepared soil mixture;
in the photo - the introduction of organic fertilizer when planting roses
The bottom of the dug fossa 1/3 covered with nutritious soil so that a small mound is formed. A rose sapling is placed on the top of the hillock; the roots must necessarily be straightened down. The distance between rose bushes during planting is observed, depending on the varietal characteristics, approximately 0.6-0.7 meters;
in the photo - fertilization when planting roses
A plant placed on a hill is covered with nutritious soil.. It is important to note that the purchased seedlings, as a rule, are grafted on the briar shtampa, so the place of grafting at planting should be below the ground surface. With this method, the cultivar will take root, and rosehips will not grow;
on the photo - place of grafting roses below the ground level
On the buried surface of the soil around the seedling a shallow circular irrigation hole is being made. There is a mound around the root collar, and a little further a groove in which there will be water;
on the photo - the fossa around the place of planting roses
Watering roses after planting should be abundant, a large amount of liquid will fill all the voids in the soil, and the roots will be completely surrounded by earth;
on the photo - watering the roses after planting
When the water is fully absorbed, we fill the sagging surface with the remnants of ordinary earth left over by digging a hole, compact it slightly;
Planted rose need to pile up, for this, the remaining soil mixture is taken (you can take humus, peat) and cover it with a small layer. This is done to retain moisture in the soil and preserve young shoots from the bright spring sun. After fourteen days the mulch layer is removed, the cuttings can start growing and the root system will develop poorly. At this stage, the formation of strong roots is important;
After planting roses is necessary take a trimleaving a pair of buds on each shoot. This should be done only in the spring, smearing cuts with garden pitch or any other means acquired in the store. If you cut the planted rose in the fall, young shoots, most likely, will not mature and freeze during the cold season.
Now, dear readers, you know how to plant a rose, so the process should be approached carefully, with all severity, and observing the above recommendations, planting roses will be not only easy, but also correct.
It is preferable to plant roses in the fall in regions with mild winters, and in regions with a harsh climate, roses are planted in the open ground mainly in spring. However, when growing roses for cutting, an autumn bookmark of the plantation is recommended for the earlier flowering of roses of the first and second waves of the cut compared to those planted in the spring. For stem roses, spring planting is desirable.
In the fall, roses in the middle lane are planted in the ground from mid-September to mid-October. An earlier planting and a warm autumn adversely affect seedlings that may have dormant buds. Later planting and very cold autumn increase the likelihood that rose seedlings will not have time to take root and will suffer from frost in winter.
Roses love the sun, warmth and open air, so under the rose garden they choose a section facing south (with a slight inclination to melt water) and protected from cold winds, where groundwater is deeper than 1 m. drainage and rosary make slightly raised to create favorable conditions for the roots. Undesirable neighborhood of roses with other plants and proximity to the walls of houses is undesirable.
Roses require fertile, loose, well-seasoned organic fertilizers, moderately moist soils. The fertile layer should be at least 40 cm. In most cases, it is moderate - clayey with sand, or sandy with clay soil, with a slightly acidic pH 6.5–7. If the soil at the site of the future rosary is poor, fertile soil is planted for planting roses: loamy soil or clay, compost, humus or well-decomposed manure - cow, horse or chicken droppings (it cannot be used for rotting manure, it causes root rot in roses), mineral fertilizers (The amount of fertilizer depends on the quality of the soil). It is advisable to prepare a fertile mixture a few weeks before planting roses: the soil must be mixed with organic matter in a 1: 1 ratio, a small amount of ash or lime, bone meal (150 g per square meter) should be added. For planting roses, they dig pits 40 cm in diameter and 50-70 cm deep, or dig trenches of the same depth and width, orienting them from north to south for better illumination. If the area is sandy, put a layer of clay about 7 cm thick at the bottom to prevent drying of the soil; and if on the site there is heavy clay soil, heavy gravel sand is poured to the bottom to prevent overwetting. Pits and trenches are filled with previously prepared fertile soil and are planted with roses.
High-quality seedlings of roses should have well-branched roots with many thin roots and at least three highly developed intact shoots; diameter of the scion and rootstock should be the same (5-8 mm). Saplings with an open root system soaked in water a day before planting. Before planting, the leaves are removed from the shoots of roses and the nezvreshshie and broken shoots are cut out with a sharp shears. The above-ground part is shortened to 30-35 cm, long roots - up to 25-30 cm, cutting rotten roots to a healthy place. The buds located below the grafting site are removed — wild growth will develop from them. Seedlings are disinfected by spraying with 3% iron sulphate. The roots of roses are dipped in a clay talker with a mullein (2: 1) creamy consistency. Park roses are planted according to the pattern of 75x100 cm for group and 1.5x2 m for ordinary plantings, Tea-hybrid 40x60 cm, large-colored Polyanthus roses and Floribunda 30x50 cm, small-colored Polyanthus roses 30x40 cm, Remontant roses 40x70 cm; between climbing roses maintain a distance of from 50 to 100 cm.
In cold regions, rose bushes are placed less frequently for better warming of the soil and aeration of plantings in order to avoid fungal diseases of roses. When growing roses for cutting, a plantation is laid in the autumn according to a thickened pattern with double rows: the distance between bushes is 25 cm, between double rows is 30 cm, between rows - 50 cm. With such an economical arrangement of roses, care of the bushes is facilitated, flower stalks are extended; the bushes stretch a little, in the autumn they stop their growth in time, and the wood has time to mature well for winter. In grafted roses, when planted, the graft turns south; it should be 3 cm (on light soils — 5 cm) below the soil surface for good rooting and to protect the roots from freezing in winter.
In the fall, shrub roses are planted a little deeper than they grew in the nursery to prevent the seedlings from pulling out from frost; climbing roses deepen more to form additional roots. When planting, the roots are evenly straightened in all directions and covered with fertile soil so that it fits snugly to the roots and there are no air cavities. The compacted soil is poured abundantly in several stages at the rate of 1-2 buckets of water per bush, after the moisture is absorbed, the surface is covered with dry soil and watering holes are made around the plants. So that the shoots of the planted roses do not dry out and do not suffer from the approaching cold weather, roses spud peat or earth with sand to a height of 20 cm. When cooling to minus temperatures, roses are covered for the winter.
If the seedlings of roses have already been acquired and the term of a favorable planting has elapsed, and the weather has deteriorated sharply, you do not need to plant roses somehow, it is better to keep them in the near hem in greenhouses, cold basements or storages at zero temperature until spring. In the open field, seedlings are added to a trench about 40 cm deep at a high site without stagnant melt water. Prepared seedlings of roses are laid in a trench in an inclined position, sand is poured onto the root necks, and then the trench is tightly filled with earth. With the establishment of steady frosts, seedlings are covered with spruce leaves and covered with peat, and above with snow.
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