When growing and caring for pepper, both sweet and sharp varieties, it is necessary to ensure optimum temperature and humidity. Of course, most plants prefer milder, greenhouse conditions, but in warm climates it is possible to plant crops in open ground. The yield in this case will depend on decent care and favorable weather conditions.
Pepper care in the greenhouse: watering, feeding, molding
Pepper care in the greenhouse is to maintain the optimum temperature, regular watering, fertilizing, weeding and loosening.
Temperature mode. The air temperature in the greenhouse during the period from planting to full fruiting should be maintained at 21-28 ° C during the day and 15 ° C at night. Then the daytime temperature is reduced by 1-2 ° C.
When caring for pepper, the greenhouse is periodically ventilated, opening doors, window leaves, transom in it. In the summer, when the outside temperature rises above 30 ° C, the glass coating of the greenhouse is sprayed with chalk suspension or shaded with light wooden grids.
Watering the peppers is done 2-3 times a week at the root. Pepper is moisture-loving, 1-2 liters of water are consumed per plant. Plants spud wet soil. After the earth dries, the aisles loosen.
and feeding. Feeding of pepper is carried out twice a month. 10-20 g of potassium chloride, 20-30 g of ammonium nitrate and 30-40 g of superphosphate are diluted with 10 liters of water. After feeding the pepper in the greenhouse, the soil is watered with clean water, otherwise you can burn the leaves. Instead of mineral fertilizers, plants are sometimes fed with organic matter: a solution of slurry or bird droppings with the addition of 150-200 g of wood ash per 10 liters of solution.
Experienced gardeners recommend watering peppers from 9 to 11 am. We must not allow frequent and long-term drying out of the soil, as well as strong waterlogging, as the plant reacts both to the dryness of the soil and to its waterlogging.
Pollination. Peppers are shaken daily during the flowering period to ensure better pollinability.
The formation of the bush. In order to grow peppers as a vertical crop, the bush begins to form at the first fork. When molded in the first fork, two escapes are left, which will be central. Subsequently, in each of the nodes leave two shoots: vertical (central) and external additional. In this way, the bush is formed to a height of 1-1.2 m.
Care for pepper in open ground: watering, feeding, protection
Care for peppers in open ground consists of watering, loosening the soil, feeding and protection from frost.
Watering. The first time the pepper is watered immediately after planting. The second time is in 5-6 days. Later it is watered every 7-10 days. First, 1-1.5 liters of water are consumed per plant, then the norm is increased to 1.5-2 liters. 2-3 weeks before the last harvest, watering is stopped.
Loosening. The soil is loosened after each rain and watering until the earth begins to dry out and become covered with a crust.
Fertilizer and feeding. Peppers are fed 3-4 times during the growing season, starting from the 10-15th day after transplanting. When feeding pepper in open ground, use slurry solution (for 1 part of fertilizer 4-5 parts of water) or bird droppings (1 part of fertilizer for 12-15 parts of water). In addition, 150–200 g of wood ash, 40–60 g of superphosphate and 15–20 g of potassium chloride are added to 10 liters of solution. When carrying out mineral fertilizing, in addition to phosphate-potassium fertilizers, ammonium nitrate (15-20 g per 10 l of fertilizer solution) is added under the pepper.
Frost protection. Heat-loving pepper is protected from frost with temporary shelter-tents made of boards, cardboard, burlap, matting, roofing felt or other improvised materials. Portable film covers are also popular. In case of strong frosts, the film is additionally covered with sacking or rags. Apply smoke and sprinkling.
The formation of the bush. During the growing season, too long shoots of pepper shorten. All excess branches, shading the crown of the bush, cut out. It is mandatory to remove all the shoots located below the main fork of the stem, as well as the branches growing inside the crown. Pruning is carried out once a week, after picking the fruit.
Harvesting, storage and processing of pepper
Harvesting pepper is made in a state of technical ripeness (the fruit has already formed, but has not reached the color and size characteristic of this variety), as well as in the state of biological ripeness (the fruit fully corresponds to its varietal characteristics). Between technical and biological ripeness usually takes 20-30 days. The ripe fruits of touch crackle. The first time the crop of pepper is harvested in mid-August and held every 6-8 days until frost. Before the frost from the bush remove all the fruits. They are sorted by ripeness and, if necessary, lay on ripening. Hot peppers are harvested when the fruits become dry and red. You can not pick the peppers with your hands, because you can damage the fruit or the stem, which will lead to rotting of the pod. Therefore, the stalks are cut with a knife.
Like most vegetables, peppers are characterized by poor keeping quality, and if stored poorly, the fruit rot after two days. Under the right conditions, the pepper can be stored even longer than the fruits of tomatoes and eggplant. Thin-walled pepper is best kept in the refrigerator. The fruit of the cut part of the stem, leaving a small tip. Fruits should not be traces of diseases, injuries, cracks and dents.
The pepper is stored in plastic bags, or the fruits are put in boxes and poured with sawdust. Fruits stored up to 2 months. Ripe peppers are kept at a temperature of 1-2 ° C, immature - at 10-12 ° C.
Seeds are harvested in the phase of full biological ripeness. They are left for 3-4 weeks, after which they are cut around the calyx and the stem with seeds is removed. Within 3-4 days it is maintained at a temperature of 25-30 ° C, and then the seeds are separated. They are folded in a paper bag and cleaned in a dry cool place. Pepper seeds are stored for 5-6 years.
The fruits are consumed fresh, pickled, canned, dried, fried, boiled, stewed. It is also possible to process pepper in caviar, mashed potatoes, vegetable snacks.
In preparation for drying, the core is removed from the peppers, washed thoroughly. Then cut the flesh into pieces of 1.5 x 1.5 or 2 x 2 cm, blanch them in a boiling 1% solution of salt for 1-2 minutes, allow to drain and put on a sieve. Dried at a temperature of 60-70 ° C for 3-5 hours. To obtain 1 kg of dried pepper you need to take 10-12 kg of fresh.
We will understand in this article.
Growing conditions
Sowing seeds of pepper for seedlings can be from February (this is especially true for residents of apartments). This is done so that by the time of disembarkation (in May-June) the pepper has blossomed and has an ovary. Before planting, the seeds must be processed as follows:
- Sprout pepper seeds (before swelling) in water at + 50 ° C for 5 hours.
- Place them in a damp cloth for 2–3 days before sticking. The temperature at which the pepper is processed should be at room temperature.
Did you know? The ideal temperature for pepper growth is + 27 ° C.
The procedures carried out before planting the pepper are aimed at ensuring that you get the first shoots as early as 1-2 days after sowing.
It is important to remember that it will develop well only if you buy high quality seeds. They will be able to provide you with a high yield.
To grow pepper seedlings, you will need Him desirable composition: sand and (2: 1: 1). It is necessary that the soil was light, fluffy, loose. A good additive to this mixture will be for 1 kg of the substrate will need only 1 tbsp. l
In February and March, seedlings need to provide additional coverage from 8 am to 8 pm. And so that the young pepper subsequently became more resistant to temperature changes and began to bear fruit earlier, the rest of the time, that is, from 8 pm to 8 am, the seedlings should be placed under an opaque fabric or material. Rassad at the time of such exposure should be less than a month.
Pepper before planting must be hardened. To do this, seedlings can be taken out on the balcony, each time increasing the time it is there.
Important! Temperatures up to + 13 ° С are too low for seedlings, so you need to carefully ensure that the peppers are not on the balcony during frosts - this can cause the plant to wilt.
So the plant will be able to gradually get used to the effects of wind, sunlight, as well as temperatures below + 27 ° C. 
Proper care after landing
In the middle-end of April, seedlings must be taken out in the greenhouse. There it should be covered with an oilcloth, which can be removed immediately after the ambient temperature rises above + 15 ° C. Pepper seedlings can not dive. Instead, you need to put it in boxes or glasses. It is important that the plant is under film. . If you planted the seeds of pepper even in winter, then after planting in the open ground the plant will bloom quickly enough, and the planting in the greenhouse must be made in early May.
Pepper can be planted in the event that on its stalk appeared sheets - from five to seven, at least. Before planting seedlings, the primer must be treated accordingly. You can add to the soil (about 5 kg per 1 square meter).
It is also advisable to warm the ground by first placing arcs with a film over it.
Planted sweet pepper is best in a place protected from the wind. In this case, the plant should receive a sufficient amount of sunlight (if there are tall plants near the pepper that can shade it). Favorable time for disembarkation is the beginning of June.
The plant must be placed in the ground so that the earth reaches the first, lower leaf. The seedling should be under the film until the moment it takes roots, will not be fixed in the soil.
Frost protection
As we said, pepper - heat-loving plant,therefore, even quenching will not make it resistant to low temperatures, but will only help to adapt and develop normally. Therefore, to ensure that the sweet pepper is always warm, it is necessary even after disembarkation. As a defense against the cold, the owners often use tents — cardboard, sackcloth, roofing felt or wooden bars are used to create them. Such devices help to protect seedlings from temporary, short-term frosts. For this tents put on top of seedlings at night. If the temperature is below + 15 ° C during the daytime, it is worthwhile to choose film shelters as protection against the cold weather.
There are two long-standing methods of protecting seedlings from cold weather - sprinkling and smoking.
Sprinkling implies the installation of a system that sprays water on plants. It works most efficiently when finely spraying water. It should be turned on late in the evening, and turned off closer to the morning, before sunrise.
This is the process by which the smoke of burnt materials envelops the plants. It is important to choose the right raw materials so that the smoke is thick. 
Watering plants
Sweet pepper can not be attributed to the drought-resistant plants. For favorable development, it requires watering. To seedlings better settled, it must be watered every 2-3 days. On one plant will need about 1.5 liters of water, and preferably watered at the very root.
Important! If the weather is dry, the pepper will need daily watering.
A week after the landing of the pepper in the ground, it is necessary to replace it - plant new ones instead of dead plants. Watering them will need less water.
Despite the fact that the pepper consumes a considerable amount of moisture, it is very important not to overdo it with watering. Excessive amount of water is harmful to plants and can affect the quality and quantity of the crop. 
Novice gardeners sometimes do not know how often to water the peppers. The main sign that the bush needs moisture is the degree of darkening of the plant - it should darken completely. If you see this sign - you can safely water the seedlings. And it is desirable to do this immediately after you have seen the main sign of a lack of water in the plant, otherwise it may wither.
If the color is changed only the leaves of pepper, do not rush to take up watering. Thus, they react to hot weather, and you can inadvertently give the plant more moisture than you actually need and thus cause harm.
When the plant begins to bear fruit, you can water it less often. Once every 5 days will be more than enough. The most appropriate time of day to supply pepper with water is morning or evening. 
Weeding and loosening
Loosening the land- a necessary stage, without which the pepper will not be able to develop safely in open ground. Thanks to this action, a larger amount of air enters the roots, thereby accelerating the growth of the bush. In addition, loosening the soil activates the work of microorganisms that are in it, which also has a positive effect on the development of sweet pepper.
The plant has a superficial root system, that is, its roots do not go deep into the soil, but are fairly close to the surface. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully peack pepper in the open ground as much as possible so as not to damage the roots. And the pepper has quite thin stems, which can be touched if it is carelessly loosened.
To loosen the ground is not recommended immediately after planting pepper in open ground. To begin with, it is necessary to replace the plants that did not take root with others, and after that give them the opportunity to harden in the soil. The first soil treatment can be carried out approximately three weeks after the landing of the sweet pepper.
Important! If plants are gnawed before they are firmly fixed in the ground, there is a high probability of injury and lack of further development.
When loosening the ground for the first time, carefully make sure that the implement does not enter the soil deeper than 5-10 cm. In the opposite case, there is a risk that you touch the root system of the pepper and soil treatment will not bring the expected positive effect on the development of the bush.
It is possible to loosen the ground deeper only if the soil in which the pepper is planted is heavy - this will enable the plant to get the necessary amount of air and heat. Loosening is not a process that should never be missed. It will be enough to walk along the rows after rains and irrigations. It is important that the ground at that time was not too wet, but did not even have time to dry. It is not necessary to work the soil every time, so if you do not have time to catch the desired soil moisture, you can safely transfer the procedure to the next time.
The number of such processing bushes depends not only on the frequency of watering or weather conditions, but also on the varieties of pepper. Thus, early varieties of soil treatment will take about 4 times, and later enough 2-3.
In the period when the pepper starts to bloom, you can use the spudger. 
Fertilizer chart
Timely - A very important condition for the cultivation of pepper in the open field.
Adding to the soil before planting pepper in it is not recommended. You should wait for the plant to take root, and the first real leaves will appear on it. Then you can prepare the following solution: in 1 liter of water is added (0.5 g), (3 g) and (1 g). When you re-feeding (two weeks), you need to double the amount.
For the third and last time, pepper is fertilized before planting the bush in a permanent place. This is best done 2 days before the final landing. Potash fertilizers this time will be 8 g per 1 liter of water. 
Looking at the appearance of sweet pepper, you can easily determine what the plant lacks. So, if the leaves of the pepper curl, and on the edges shrink, it means that the plant lacks potassium.
Purple leaf color from the bottom, as well as their unnatural proximity to the trunk indicates a lack of phosphorus; in this case, the growth of bushes slows down, and fruit ripening is uneven. 
Small leaves, which are characterized by haze and light, sometimes even a gray tint indicate a lack of nitrogen, at the same time, when this element is oversaturated, the Bulgarian pepper drops ovaries and flowers.
Marble color of leaves- a sign of magnesium deficiency.
Important!It is undesirable to fertilize sweet pepper with potassium chloride - this substance does not give a visible effect and does not really affect the development of the plant.
Features of the formation of bushes
The formation of pepper bushes in the open field - a procedure necessary for tall varieties (the height of the bushes often reaches 2 meters). It is divided into four stages, each of which we describe in detail below. First of all, do not forget that you can only form those bushes that do not have. The tool that you use during any of the stages of formation must be sharp and clean. This is necessary so that during operation the plant is not subject to possible infection. 
Stage Onebears the name "Crown Bud" and its essence is that this very bud in time to detect and rid of it sweet pepper. This part of the bush appears when it reaches a height of about 20 cm. At this time, the plant begins to branch, and in the place of “divergence” of the branches, a part necessary for removal appears, which is called the “crown bud”. It also happens that the flower does not appear alone. In this case, you should destroy all the buds, because they hinder the further development of pepper.
Important! If the bud appeared before you planted the seedlings in open ground, you still need to get rid of it. Such an action in no way hurts the seedlings.
The second stage of formation begins when the number of leaves in the bush reaches 10-12 pieces. At this stage, you will need to remove all unnecessary branches. Branches that look weak may subsequently affect the yield, so you can and should get rid of them (for this, the apical point of growth is removed). The remaining branches will become the so-called "skeleton" of the bush. That is why, during the second stage, weak branches are removed, or rather shortened. Thus you form a strong "frame" of the plant, able to bring a good harvest.
After that it is necessary to observe the further development of pepper. The branches that remain will begin to branch out. On each of them there will be a fork with a bud. And in order for the ovaries of the plant to get all the necessary nutrients, it is necessary to determine the strongest bud, while we get rid of the rest by pinching them above the first leaf. Such a manipulation is done every time the bush begins to branch. In the bud, which appeared on the ramification, later the pepper will be tied up (in tall varieties the number of ovaries varies from 17 to 25). Also removed those buds that have formed in the internodes.
To the third stage You can go after getting rid of the bush from the extra buds. Now the plant needs to get rid of barren shoots. They appear for the reason that even after the second stage of the formation of the bush, pepper does not stop developing.
At this stage, it is important to glance at the plants in order to notice unnecessary processes in time. It is easy to find them - they are all located below the branching point of the main stem. At the same stage, the sweet pepper bush must be rid of other unnecessary parts - leaves that are either damaged and, if not removed, can infect the whole bush, as well as those that create an additional shadow that is completely unnecessary for pepper. Such leaves, as a rule, do not contribute to the nutrition of the ovaries. If this stage is neglected and leaves are left, then the fruit, no matter how it blooms, may not appear, which means the harvest from the bushes will be reduced. 
To remove excess leaves, follow these rules. Leaf plates located on the main stem are cut when ripeness has reached the fruit of the lower brush. At the same time, only two sheets can be cut at a time. The second time you need to carry out this procedure when the second brush appears. The same rule applies to ripening fruits. The last time to get rid of extra sheets can be six weeks before the harvest. At this time, the bushes can not be touched, because they need to rest.
Fourth stageheld in order to get a beautiful, tasty harvest. It is at this stage of the formation of bushes allowed the greatest number of errors. We will understand how to avoid them.
So that the pepper itself, which is eaten, is large and has a pleasant taste, the plant needs strength. Therefore, it is very important to calculate them correctly. The energy of the bush goes to the development of new ovaries, and the main problem of beginning gardeners is the fact that they leave a larger number of ovaries than the bush is able to “feed”. Thus, the strength of the plant, spent on the development of these same ovaries, subsequently lead to the fact that they all receive the same small amount of nutrients and cannot develop normally. The quality of the fruit, respectively, suffers. 
The maximum number of flowers on one bush is 25. New ones may appear after you save the plant from all unnecessary. That's when you need to start last stage - pinching kidneys. In order for the pepper to spend its strength on the development of high-quality fruits, you need to pinch all the growth points that are on the main branches. An important condition is the presence of ovaries on the bush, the number of which does not exceed the norm.
Only tall people are subject to such careful formation. Others do not require so much attention - you can only save the bushes from empty shoots, so that the pepper does not spend useful substances on them, and also remove the leaves that create additional shadow.
The main problems with growing
Care for sweet peppers, as well as for any other crop, requires not only compliance with the rules of cultivation. Sometimes gardeners do not pay attention to some of the nuances, which can cause difficulties with the plant. Consider the main ones. 
Slow seed growth.Its main cause is a decrease in temperature below + 20 ° C. Warm climate is an important condition, because fluctuations in temperature adversely affect the development and growth of bushes. Gradually reduce the temperature when the seedlings become older than one month.
The technology of growing peppers in the open field requires greater attention to the plant, so many gardeners prefer to grow crops only in greenhouses.
Leaf fall can occur at once for several reasons, among which are: diseases, insufficient amount of moisture, low ambient temperature, soil depletion, aging. Also, the pepper reacts poorly to watering with very low temperature water. 
To sweet pepper bushes brought a good harvest,you should follow their timely watering, getting enough light, protect the plant from drafts, frost, and also not overdo it with the addition of organic fertilizers to the soil, but at the same time do not allow the soil to become poor.
Sweet pepper is not an unpretentious plant. Growing and proper care for him in the open field will take a lot of time, but fruits rich in many trace elements and vitamins are definitely worth the effort spent on growing this crop.
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Bulgarian pepper also called sweetIt is rich in nutrients and vitamins, different colors, juicy and tasty.
Process growing sweet pepper has its own characteristics, since pepper is a thermophilic vegetable. To get a good harvest of peppers, you need to have knowledge and certain skills.
Will consider cultivation of bell pepper from seeds, from seedlings, especially care when grown in open ground, pest and disease control, when to harvest.
Pepper is a plant of short daylight, and if daylight is less than 12 hours, the pepper begins to bear fruit earlier.
It is impractical to plant peppers seeds in open ground even in the southern regions, because it is necessary to wait until the soil warms up, the pepper will begin to bear fruit later and not for long. Therefore, mostly sweet peppers are grown seedlings.
When growing seedlings at home, pepper seeds are sown in February, so that before the transplant into the soil the plants are 90-100 days. Pepper does not tolerate a dive, so try to immediately sow the seeds in separate peat pots with a diameter of 8-10 cm.
Large pots do not need to use because of the slow development of the root system of peppers.
Soil for seedlings
Suitable light and loose substrate consisting of humus, mixed with 1 part of the earth and 1 part of the sand. Add 1 kg of substrate 1 tbsp. l wood ash.
Before sowing, carry out the treatment of pepper seeds - keep the seeds in hot water + 50 degrees for 5 hours. Then place the seeds in a damp cloth for germination for 2-3 days, the temperature in the room should be + 20 degrees. After this preplant preparation, seedlings appear as early as the day after sowing.
Seeds sown in cups, pour and cover with plastic wrap or glass. Before the emergence of shoots to keep the pots in a warm place with a temperature of + 22 degrees. After the emergence of the shoots, remove the film and transfer the seedlings to a room with a temperature of 26-28 degrees during the day and 10-15 degrees at night.
When caring for seedlings of peppers, do not allow the soil to dry out, but we do not recommend excessive watering.
Watering produce warm water +30 degrees, from cold water grow frail seedlings, plants can get sick. The air in the room should not be too dry, protect the plants from drafts and spray the plants.
In winter in February, the seedlings require additional lighting so that daylight is from 7 am to 9 pm.
First feeding be carried out in the phase of appearance of 2 true leaves with the following solution: dilute 5 g of ammonium nitrate in 10 l of water, 10 g of potash fertilizers, 30 g of superphosphate.
Second feeding be carried out 14 days after the first mineral fertilizers in 2 times greater proportions than the first.
Third dressing be carried out 2 days before transplanting to the ground. Increase the dose of potash fertilizer to 70 g per 10 liters of water.
A few weeks before the planting of pepper seedlings, they harden the plants, bringing them to fresh air for several hours. Make sure that the air temperature was not lower than +13 degrees, the seedlings may die.
Choosing a place for planting bell peppers
Pick up a plot in the garden, where cucumbers, onions, pumpkins, carrots, cabbage, zucchini, various siderats grew before. Pepper grows poorly and be fruitful if planted on a plot where potatoes, eggplants, tomatoes, and peppers were grown before.
Pepper grows best on light soils. Prepare a site for planting in advance, in the autumn to make 50 g of phosphate and potash fertilizers per m 2, dig deep. In the spring, add 40 g of ammonium nitrate per m 2 plot to the topsoil.
Before planting seedlings in open ground, disinfect the soil with this solution: dilute 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate in 10 liters of water.
At the end of May, seedlings of pepper are planted in open ground with a distance of 40x40 cm between the plants. In the film greenhouse seedlings are planted in late April.
Seedlings should be planted to the same depth as the plants grew in cups or boxes. Do not expose the roots, but try not to drop the radical neck.
Pepper does not like cold soil, arrange high beds for peppers raised by 25 cm to get a good harvest of peppers.
Attention: pepper is subject to over-pollination; therefore, different varieties of peppers should be planted as far as possible from each other or separated using tall plantations of tomatoes, corn, and sunflower.
Video - Peppers, the secret of a rich harvest
Care for pepper in open field
It is necessary to carry out watering, dressing, garters and weeding of pepper plants in a timely manner.
Top dressing of peppers in an open ground
During the season, it is necessary to conduct 3-4 dressings of chicken manure diluted with water 1 x 10. Such alternate dressings alternate foliar using spraying with nitrophosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).
Potassium deficiency lead to twisting of the leaves, the appearance of a drying border. But pepper does not tolerate an abundance of potassium chloride.
With nitrogen deficiency pepper leaves are becoming smaller, getting dull grayish shade. If excess nitrogen occurs dropping flowers and ovaries.
Phosphorus deficiency - leaves from the bottom become saturated purple, pressed against the stem of plants and rise up.
With magnesium deficiency leaves become marble in color.
Video - HOW TO FORMATE THE PEPPER CORRECTLY !!! LEAVING AND SUPPORTING !!!
Pepper care
Pasyoning in hot and humid weather, removing side shoots, especially the lower ones. Conversely, when the hot and dry weather pepper is not a stepchild, the leaves during this period protect the plants from evaporation of soil moisture.
During the growing season, pruning of the longest shoots is carried out, especially remove all the processes below the fork of the main stem, as well as all the branches going inside the plant. Crop every 10 days and after harvesting.
To attract insect pollinators, spray pepper plants with sugar or honey solution: 100 g sugar, add 2 g of boric acid, dilute all in a liter of hot water.
Mulching of peppered straw (layer 10 cm) will reduce the frequency of watering to 1 time in 10 days.
Timely carry out the garter plants, it is better to do it after hilling.
Pests such as slugs, scoops, aphids, whiteflies, bears, and the Colorado potato beetle can harm plants. It is necessary to pollinate pepper with wood ash 3 times per season.
Common diseases of sweet pepper - late blight, Septorioz, macrosporioz, vertex rot, white rot, black leg.
In the fight with Medvedka, before planting in the ground, fill the wells for planting with onion water (insist with 500 g of onion peel in 10 liters of water for 3 days).
If aphids are affected, treat the plants with a solution: dilute 1.5 l of whey in 10 l of water. After processing, crush ash.
When the peppers acquire the size and color appropriate to ripening, start harvesting, cutting the vegetables with a stem. Ripening of pepper begins in early August and continues until the first frost.
Video - 10 ERRORS when growing sweet pepper
Greater yields of sweet pepper!
It is not difficult to get a decent crop of pepper without a greenhouse, if you apply the right agricultural techniques and successfully select the appropriate varieties for growing sweet pepper in the open field.
Choosing the best varieties of sweet pepper for open ground
First of all, it is necessary to choose varieties for open ground that are optimal for this region. There are simple varieties and hybrid varieties. Hybrids are good for their resistance to disease, a predictable high yield and an attractive type of fruit, but the seeds cannot be collected from a hybrid - anything can grow.
There are salad varieties, which are mainly used for preservation and universal use. There are varieties with good keeping quality, which are stored for a long time.
In areas with unpredictable summer, it is preferable to choose to grow either early varieties or medium early. From planting to the first fruits they have 100-120 days.
Recognized favorite variety "Swallow" - refers to the medium, reaches a height of 62 cm, fruiting begins in 116-122 days with the appearance of the first shoots. Fruits have thick walls and gain weight up to 100 g.
The “Orange Miracle” is a medium early plant that grows to a height of 90 cm. The fruits are fairly large, weighing up to 250 g. The variety is fairly resistant to some types of wilting and tobacco mosaic.
“Bogatyr” is a good middle-ripening variety, up to 75 cm high. As in “Swallow”, the fruits have a rather thick wall and gain weight up to 200 g. The ripeness period is 125-135 days.
"Cardinal" - early, up to 100 cm high. Fruits have a violet color and thick walls, weight up to 280 g. Maturity period - 95 days. It has a good resistance to tobacco mosaic.
"Barguzin" - Refers to medium-early varieties. The ripening period is about 110-120 days, reaches a height of up to 80 cm. Fruits are yellow with a thick wall up to 5 mm and weighing up to 200 g.
"Merchant" - refers to early ripening with a ripening period of 95-110 days and a height of 90 cm. Fruits are red with a thick wall, weighing up to 110 g.
Also excellent varieties: "Lumin", "Ivanhoe", "Health", "Bugay", "Tusk".
Representatives of hybrid varieties:
"Latino F1" is a medium early representative, reaching a height of 100 cm with large red fruits resembling a cube shape and reaching a mass of 200 g.
"Atlantic F1" - early, bush height up to 1 m, Very large, fleshy fruits weighing up to 400 g. Resistant to viral diseases.
"Star of the East F1" - mid-early variety. Ripens an average of 110-130 days. Reaches a height of 70 cm. Fruits ripen in a saturated red color weighing up to 320 g.
Preparing seeds of sweet pepper for planting seedlings
For the successful cultivation of sweet pepper in the open field it is necessary to carefully prepare the seeds. From the time of germination to flowering pepper needs more than 100 days.
Therefore, it is better to sow seeds in the first decade of February, especially if you want to grow sweet peppers in the open field. If planted in early March, then you need artificial lighting seedlings.
Preparation of sweet pepper seeds for planting involves several steps:
- germination test;
- calibration;
- disinfection;
- soaking seeds in nutrients;
- hardening;
- germination.
Germination test
A month before sowing their seeds it is useful to check for germination. Take 8-10 seeds from a bag, and put them in a rag in warm water for a day.
Then they take it out of the water, put it on a saucer, put the saucer in a plastic bag and put it in heat, under the battery. The fabric should always be wet. If at least half of the seeds are bred, then the seeds are fit.
Note! This applies to old or its seeds.
Seed sizing
First, damaged and deformed seeds are selected, then they are immersed in a 5% salt solution, shaken, left for 5 minutes and the floating seeds are discarded, the rest are washed.
Attention! Seeds from the 3rd year of storage are not calibrated in salt water.
Disinfection
In a strong solution of potassium permanganate, seeds are incubated for 20 minutes, then washed under running water.
This operation disinfects the outer envelope, for deeper processing they use bacterial agents, often of a specific action. Good results are given by treatments with Trihofit and Fitosporin. Seeds are kept in solutions of drugs according to the instructions.
Attention! The solution of "Trihofit" must be kept in the dark.
Soak in nutrient solution
For solutions, Epin-Extra, Zircon growth stimulants, wood ash, Ideal, sodium humate and others are used.
If bacterial preparations were disinfected, they often already contain growth stimulants, as in “Fitosporine-paste” and that is enough.
Hardening and germination of seeds of sweet pepper
Seeds are put in an envelope of damp cloth, then in a bag of polyethylene (preferably with perforations) and placed in a refrigerator for 3 days at a temperature of from 0 ° C to + 2 ° C. But the best results are given by the alternation of cold and heat: day - cold, day - room temperature and again cold. The fabric should not dry out.
Then the bag is placed in heat (near the battery) and as soon as the white spine appears, immediately sow. Important! The coated, inlaid and precision seeds are immediately planted in seed boxes.
Cultivation of sweet pepper seedlings and care
For sowing, containers with a height of about 12 cm are used, a tetra-pack of milk or juice, or a lid on a cake will be suitable.
Soil preparation for seedlings
The soil mixture should be loose, fertile, well-breathable, not sour. Suitable primer for tomatoes, peppers and eggplant. You can buy soil "Violet" and add humus there.
Earth is filled with a sowing tank, not getting two centimeters to the top. The ground is leveled, they are pressed a little, they are held in rows every 5 cm, watered with warm water. Seeds are laid out in rows with a gap of 2 cm, sprinkled with earth (2-3 cm) and gently press down with your fingers. Cover the boxes with film, then put in a warm dark place.
After 2 days, sprinkle the soil with warm water from the sprayer. Approximately on day 5 shoots appear, immediately rearrange the container with the seedlings on the light window-sill.
The optimum ambient temperature is up to 16 ° C; it is maintained for about a week. Then the daytime temperature is desirable up to 25 ° C, at night - up to 18 ° C.
Pour gently with warm water as needed. Preferably one-time feeding of calcium nitrate (one tablespoon per 5 l of water). When these leaves appear, you can carry out a pick.
Important! Weak, distorted shoots must be removed.
Pepper seedlings pick
A couple of hours before picking seedlings need to water. Pots for seedlings can be cut juice bags, cups of milk and so on. Holes at the bottom of the pot should be necessary, well put a layer of drainage.
The optimal size is 9 x 9 cm. The cups are filled with soil, spilled with water with “Ideal” (1 teaspoon of “Ideal” in 3 liters of water), made a hole and planted peppers, falling asleep with dry soil to the cotyledon leaves.
Important! After the picking, water on the 5th or 6th day.
The pots are placed on the illuminated window sill, occasionally turning to illuminate the plant evenly. Water only with warm water, as needed, usually once a week, not flooding the plant. The soil at the base of the stem should be loose, "breathable."
How to feed the seedlings?
Top dressing is usually combined with watering (first watering, then top dressing) alternating root and top dressing on the leaves. You can make fertilizing with mixtures of mullein and mineral fertilizers, wood ash, but in urban environments it is more convenient and safer to use ready-made liquid fertilizers “Ideal”, “Good power”, “Zircon” (growth stimulator), “Russian Fields, Biopergnei” and others. Good treatment and bacterial preparations. The best daytime temperature for seedlings is 25 ° C, night temperature is 20 ° C.
Pinching seedlings
Pinching is carried out above 5-7 of this leaf in order for the plant to branch. Just at this time, the internodes of the plants begin to stain. One day after pinching, it is good to spray the plant with a growth promoter. Pinching stimulates the growth of new shoots - stepchildren, on the bush leave no more than 5 upper stepsons.
Hardening of sweet pepper seedlings
Hardening seedlings is a necessary condition for the successful cultivation of sweet pepper in the open field. With the onset of warm weather from + 15 ° C, you can take out seedlings on the balcony, first for a few hours, then for the whole day, and then not clean it at night at + 15 ° C.
Important! When hardening in dressing it is necessary to reduce the nitrogen content.
Hardening is useful not only by “accustoming” the plant to more severe conditions, it stimulates the growth of a powerful root system and does not allow the seedlings to stretch.
Site preparation for planting
Pepper heat-loving, wind-pollinated plant, prefers lighted places and normal humidity. Therefore, the site for planting should choose an open, sunny and preferably protected from the wind.
To protect against the wind, they propose to place a close-up of tall crops, but the illumination of plants suffers. It is safer to put the tunnel film cover - they will save from the strong wind, and hail, and overheating, and from the cold. You can also put a woven basket woven from twigs, but the tunnel greenhouse is more functional.
Do not recommend planting peppers after potatoes, Physalis, tobacco, tomatoes and eggplants. The soil may be contaminated with common pests and diseases of this family. It is reasonable to plant after legumes, melons and greens.
Soil preparation for planting
Peppers have a strong root system and for them it is necessary to carry out a deep digging, no less than on a bayonet spade. The soil should be neutral, fertile, loose and finely lumpy, well retaining moisture.
Fresh manure cannot be applied, but compost, rotted manure and sawdust are excellent. If the soil is too light, you must add peat, if it is too heavy, coarse sand.
When planting, NPK-complex fertilizers are applied to the soil in a ratio of 1: 2: 3. You can apply calcium nitrate. But then it is necessary to exclude phosphate fertilizers when digging, phosphorus and sulfur are not compatible with calcium nitrate.
Planting seedlings in open ground
Peppers are planted on the ridge, after the spring frosts. From the second decade of May to mid-June, depending on the climatic zone.
First you need to dig holes, shed them with water, then shed with a solution of a bacterial preparation, pour water over again, place the plant with an earthy clod in the hole and cover it with dry soil, compress and sprinkle with earth or mulch.
Watering is not necessary. For compact bushes, the intervals between plants are 35 cm, between rows - 50 cm. High varieties are planted in one row after 50-60 cm between the bushes, and in several rows after 60-80 cm. When planting, you must immediately install a peg for garter stalk .
Note! The use of black or colored mulching materials allows you to retain moisture, does not allow weeds to grow, eliminates the need for loosening.
Features of the cultivation of sweet pepper in central Russia and Moscow region
The south of the region, the earlier the seedlings are planted in the ground, the earlier they are sowing seeds. In the first decade of February, they start sowing tall varieties, in the second decade - mid-season, in the third decade of February and in the first days of March - early ripe, compact.
Seedlings are planted in the ground from mid-May to mid-June, necessarily covering the beds with foil. The seeding scheme is chosen depending on the size of the bush.
The best grades of sweet pepper for Moscow region and Central Russia: Vesuvius, Emelya, Annushka, Montero, Selviya, Carlson, the Golden Miracle and others.
Features of the cultivation of sweet pepper in Ukraine
In Ukraine, the climate is temperate continental over a larger area, only in the south it is closer to subtropical. The soils of Ukraine are fertile and rich in black soil. For gardeners and gardeners is a fertile land. The main problems of some regions of Ukraine are extremely hot summer (up to +35 С °), dry winds and rare rains.
Peppers in Ukraine are also grown in seedlings, although tomatoes are often sown directly in the ground. Peppers have a longer growing season and ripening.
Features of agricultural engineering techniques are protection from strong winds, from sunburn, from pests (their number is higher than in the northern regions), from drying out of the soil.
Planting peppers in Ukraine is significant and the use of drip irrigation and mulching with protective soil coatings saves time and effort.
However, the root system is located closer to the surface and without protection from the wind, the bushes of pepper pulling out of the ground.
Mulch coatings should be two-colored: from the bottom - black, from the top - light to reflect the sun's rays and reduce the drying out of the soil.
The planting pattern is normal, the gap between the bushes is 50 cm, between the rows - 60 cm. The bed is covered with a film to speed up the adaptation period.
Late-ripening varieties sow 75 days before planting on ridges (in mid-February), middle-ripening - 65 days, early ripening 60 days.
Features of the cultivation of sweet pepper in the Urals
Due to significant climatic and soil differences in the Southern, Northern and Middle Urals, gardeners use different agricultural techniques for growing garden crops, including pepper.
In the north of the Urals, summer is short, with an average temperature of +8 ° C, strong winds and fogs. The soil is rocky there, so you have to resort to certain methods in order to grow crops.
To protect against winds use fences, buildings, tall plants, including shrubs. For planting next year, even in the fall prepare warm beds. In the northern Urals, peppers are grown exclusively in the greenhouse.
In the southern Urals, the average summer temperature is +22 С °. A few days before planting, the bed is covered with black material to warm the ground. Plant in the usual way, depending on the size of the bush.
Planted in a permanent place at the end of May, mid-June with a mandatory cover film on the arcs.
The best varieties of sweet pepper for the Urals: Kolobok, Siberian Firstborn, Sibiryak, Barguzin, Topolin, Montero, Merchant, Red and yellow bulls, Bogatyr.
Cultivation and care of sweet peppers
Care for peppers consists in timely weeding, loosening, watering, feeding and forming a bush.
Important! The first flowers must be removed, in the future it is necessary to remove all the deformed flowers and ovaries.
Pollination
Pepper is a wind-pollinated plant, for guaranteed pollination it is necessary to shake the bush a little. But perhaps pollinating different varieties. If bitter pepper grows in the garden plot, then in the case of pereovación, the fruits of sweet pepper will become bitter.
High temperatures, especially at night, inhibit the activity of pollen. Covering materials Ultrasil and Spunbond will protect the plants from overheating and level the effect of the temperature difference.
Dogging of sweet pepper
The plant must be formed by pinching. Lower stepchildren usually break off, with the exception of only very hot weather. Then the lower shoots shade the soil. The shrub should not be thickened, so pluck any excess shoots. Tie plants to pegs as the stem and shoots grow.
Weeding and loosening
Even when forming ridges from the soil, all weeds should be removed, so only seed weeds brought in by wind, birds or compost can sprout.
Timely loosening will destroy them and destroy the soil crust. It is necessary to loosen so as not to damage the roots of plants, especially when using drip irrigation.
Watering sweet pepper
Watering can be carried out in the usual way - under the root, sprinkling and drip method. You can water only with warm water. Before flowering, they sprinkle once a week at the rate of one watering can (10 liters) of water per 1 sq. M. During flowering and fruiting, watered at the root 2 times a week. Of course, the weather makes its own adjustments.
Very convenient and promising drip irrigation. Water losses are reduced, no physical effort is required, no earth crust is formed, through which the soil moisture evaporates.
How to feed the pepper?
A week after planting, it is possible to carry out the first feeding with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. Such feeding should be carried out every week after watering. You can use ready-made mineral mixtures and fertilizer solutions.
“Green fertilizer” is widely used, when nettles are put into the barrel, dandelion leaves, wood lice are poured with water and left for a week. It is better to close the barrel tightly with foil and tie it up - it will smell very bad. A week later, add a glass of ash to the barrel and water the plants.
It is also necessary to make trace elements and foliar dressing. During fruiting, Ideal, Senor Tomato and other fertilizers are excellent. After the first fruiting, fertilize with NPK-complex in a ratio of 1: 1: 1.5.
Important! If signs of disease or pests are observed on one bush, then it is necessary to process all the plantings of pepper.
Treatment against diseases and pests of sweet peppers
It is necessary to treat the soil and leaves with bacterial preparations such as trichodermin, phytosporin and trichophyt. They are quite effective in preventing diseases such as fusarium, blight, tracheomycosis, sclerotinia, gray mold, blackleg and a number of other infections.
These drugs have a hazard class 4, that is, low-hazard substances. Potassium permanganate, for example, has a hazard class 2.
Vertex rot is a very unpleasant disease. It develops due to lack of calcium, excess nitrogen, changes in air humidity and uneven irrigation. It is recommended to carry out the treatment in the period of growth of 0.3-0.4% calcium with chloride or lime milk. Calcium nitrate is also required.
The main pests of this culture are scoops, spider mites and aphids. Against scoops use:
- bacterial preparations - lepidocid, bitoxibacillin, enterobacterin (0.2), dendrobacillin ;
- chemical - karbofos and chlorophos;
- folk remedies - infusions of hot pepper, burdock, wormwood, potato tops;
- agrotechnical methods - thorough soil digging, harvesting plant residues in the autumn;
- traps - containers with kvass.
Spider mite does not tolerate moisture, so sprinkling will be a good preventive measure, by the way, against aphids too. Also used infusions of plants - dandelion, garlic, onion peel.
To prevent the appearance of aphids, it is necessary to get rid of earth ants. Ants can not stand the salt. Chemical and folk remedies do well with the first generation of aphids, other generations are more tenacious.
Infusions of garlic, horseradish, celandine, tobacco with soap, with careful processing can destroy colonies of aphids.
Collection and proper storage of the harvest of sweet pepper
Fruits for quick consumption are usually harvested in the phase of biological maturity, when shape, size and color correspond to the variety. The exceptions are cases when the collection is carried out to unload the plants, and they continued to effectively bear fruit.
For storage, the peppers are correctly collected in the phase of technical or technical-biological maturity, when the size and color do not yet correspond to the varietal ripeness.
Note! Fruit harvesting should be carried out in dry weather and better in the morning.
Peppers, with optimum agricultural technology, begin to shoot in mid-July, but a mass gathering is carried out in August and September before the start of autumn frosts.
The fruits are cut with scissors, together with the stem. The branches are very fragile and fragile, so they act carefully.
Fruits are picked for storage without damage, sorted by ripeness, the stalk is cut, leaving only a small tip.
Fruits with thick pulp are placed in special plastic bags with a membrane for storing vegetables and tightly tied them. Because of the carbon dioxide environment, vegetables are stored for a relatively long time, and the membrane will not allow moisture vapor to remain in the bag.
Peppers are stored in basements, cellars, refrigerators in boxes, packages, baskets. Each fruit is desirable to wrap paper. The optimum temperature for storage is 8-10 ° C with a humidity of 80-90%. With this storage, the fruits retain their freshness for up to two months.
Peppers are a wonderful vegetable crop. Growing it in the open field is easy, although the weather factor is very important. If you carefully and methodically perform the necessary actions, then the harvest, even in a cold and damp summer, you can get a good one. And then we recommend to view a very interesting video with tips from experts about the cultivation of sweet pepper:
