Mod Pet Dragon - handmade dragon for Minecraft PE. How to make a dragon

Dragons are fabulous creatures that appeal to both adults and children. If everyone likes them so much, why not make yourself (or a couple) yourself?

Such a handmade dragon can also serve as an excellent handmade gift, especially to a person keen on this subject.

Today's master class is provided for our site by the forum member Irbisina from the HobbyPortal forum, where you can read the original of her master class about paper dragons, wires, ropes and masses for modeling.

So, if you decide to make a dragon with your own hands, first draw a sketch of it or pick up an image you like, since there are plenty of images of dragons on the Internet.

Now it's time to think about the size of your dragon, how the wire frame will be located in his body. Cut the wire for the frame: body, paws, wings.

In order to connect individual parts of the wire with your own hands, you can solder them or tie them tightly with tape, tape, thin sections even with threads.
To solder the carcass, you need to remove the varnish from the wire with the help of a skin with your own hands;

Give the frame an approximate shape and solder it:

Let's take paws: solder, cut to the desired length, undercut the file of the claw and weave them.

This is how our dragon looks like at this stage. Still far from perfect:

Now it is very important to make sure that the legs of the dragon turned out the same length. The author had one leg longer, so she had to return to this stage again (removing the paper wound after) and shorten the leg by 1.5 cm.

Now we arm ourselves with toilet paper and wrap it with our own hands in a single layer frame. Cover with diluted PVA glue and let dry.

When the glue is dry, we tear off the paper in small pieces, squeeze it with our own hands and tie it to the dragon (with threads), then we wrap toilet paper over it until the desired thickness of all parts of the dragon is formed:

We act similarly on our feet, only more carefully than on a thick body, the handmade dragon is already acquiring final outlines:

When wrapping the entire dragon with paper, carefully smear it with glue and let it dry.
Usually dragons are covered with scales. In order to create its similarity, the author uses a string with the amazing name "Packaging from recycled materials". It needs to be glued onto the dragon's body using a universal transparent glue (for example, Moment).
Instead of a rope you can use flagella twisted from toilet paper.
We start to glue where the string can go in a circle (in the photo is the dragon's neck), it is easier to pre-lubricate the surface with glue with your own hands.

We wind the neck and go to the body (we also apply glue to it, but not much), from the body we go to the tail and fasten our string. We do not pay attention to the empty chest and ass, let them be paper so far. :)
We cut off a small amount of rope, divide it, and already thin on the mat on the basis for the wings. Do not forget about the glue.

Here is what we end up with with our own hands:

With the connected rope we make a coil around the paw and stick it on. Here it is, a handmade dragon's foot:

It remains to do it yourself, with a rope, to glue all the places where the paper is still visible.
   Let's start with the handmade dragon chest.
   We cut off a piece from the rope that is exactly equal in length to the remaining "hole" on the dragon's body, and begin to lay it down, smearing it with glue. This is probably the most tedious and dirty stage of work on the handmade dragon.
   Behind the paws and around the paws, we press the threads harder to make indentations.

We continue to glue the rope with our own hands, make flagella in the size of the remaining holes. Apply a drop of glue to the cochik, roll it up and glue it. So we complete the work on the dragon's chest.

Now we do with our own hands rope inserts on the hind legs of the handmade dragon.

The gap between the hind legs remained unglued, we similarly glue it.

When the entire dragon is wrapped, apply a primer and leave to dry. When it dries, it is better to cover the handmade dragon with acrylic paint (for example, white) so that it is solid.

Now came the turn to sculpt the dragon's head with my own hands. The author makes this from a special self-hardening in air mass KERA Plast

If the masses are very tight for modeling, then you can make the dragon's head with your own hands from papier-mâché or salted dough, but it will not be so convenient, simple or fast.
First, you need to give a general shape to the head, make fingers under the eyes, form a beak (it will be your nose), make holes with a toothpick and give it the desired shape. Put a scone on top of your head and press everything well, smooth the junction points, give it a shape to your eyebrows.

Attach the prepared wire (curved according to the shape of the head and the horns) on top of the head. Under the wire and on top make sausages and then align everything. After giving your head the desired shape from above, immediately apply a drawing with your own hand with a toothpick. Apply paste to the wire for modeling and shape the horns, then sculpt the sausage from below and smear it around where the horn grows. It should turn out as in the photo. While the paste is not frozen, with a toothpick or needle, scratch the horn and the adjacent parts of the head to give the handmade dragon realism.

We make a notch on the head, where then we place the middle horns.

Begin to do the dragon eyes with your own hands. To do this, roll a small ball and press it into places for the eyes that we prepared in advance (pits). Immediately insert the strazik (or bead). If it does not hold well, glue it. Blind the lower jaw and connect with the upper. Roll the sausage and stick it to the bottom of the needlework dragon's eyes to create a predatory squint

Spread the sausage under the eye, even (finger). Put your cheeks on your hands and try to shape your cheekbones. If necessary, remove excess paste for modeling.
Cover the nape of the dragon with a cake from the mass for modeling and give the final look. If you also have such needle ornaments near your dragon’s head (as in the last photo), make cutouts for them. We will now make them on the same principle as the wings.

Scratch the head slightly with a needle, giving it a skin effect. Head is placed on the remaining unwound end of the wire around the neck.
   We proceed to the manufacture of wings, "feathering" of the ridge and needle ornaments next to the head of the dragon. All of them are made on the same principle.
   To make the wings, put the dragon sideways on a piece of paper, circle the general shape of the future wings with your hands. Finish the veins. The resulting handmade dragon wing pattern is placed under the transparent polyethylene. On top of the veins, lay out and glue the flagella twisted from toilet paper or newsprint, spread them with diluted PVA glue.
We put toilet paper, paper towels, napkins or pressed paper (sold in rolls) over the flagella. If you use toilet paper, try to ensure that the joints run along the flagella - streaks of the wings, and not between them.
   Turn over, glue on the other side with your own hands the second layer of paper so that the flagella - the veins are between two layers of paper.
   We coat the paper with PVA glue (this should create small folds on the paper), wait for drying, carefully remove the wing from the polyethylene. Cut the wing exactly on the pattern and glue to the handmade dragon.

Making a ridge. Almost the same as the wings. On the toilet paper we place the flagella at a certain distance (you can estimate it so that they are more often to the tip of the tail and less often to the neck of the dragon handmade).
Cover with a second layer of toilet paper, coat with PVA, dry. To glue this strip of toilet paper onto the dragon's ridge, first around the middle of the ridge we glue a long flagellum made of toilet paper or a newspaper, glue a strip to it, and on the other side of the strip we glue the second flagellum supporting the protruding ridge.

The ridge is cut to the desired length, cut out the desired shape.

Now it remains only to paint the dragon and varnish it with your own hands!

By the way, dragons can be made with your own hands not only from paper and rope, but also from leather (with wire and a small amount of plastic), as Marina Bulat does and fastens, for example, to glasses for wine:

Instruction

Do not try to come into close contact with the reptile at first, it will end with nothing good. Provide an animal comfortable living conditions. Friendship at a distance should last for about 2-3 weeks, and then you need to act carefully, but at the same time decisively. Try not to frighten the animal with sudden movements and loud words.

If the iguana is from you, do not catch up with her, and do not catch the reptile. When it starts to be given in your hands, you will notice it yourself. If you have stroked it, be sure to treat something tasty. Iguana will soon realize that you are no danger to her and will be more willing to contact you. By the way, it is noticed that they get used to a caring person very much and begin to remind. They love them and when, so pay the iguana a little more attention to getting used to.

Well, the warmest relations with the reptile can be at the last stage of friendship - bathing. Iguanas love to perform procedures in warm water. After the bath they become kind and docile. But do not try to invade her personal space - they do not like it. Independent reptiles and complete self-sufficiency interfere with closer friendships, but if you love your iguanathen you will understand it.

Iguana - a real handmade dragon!

In nature, the iguana inhabits the tropics of Central and South America. This reptile moves easily through the trees, on which they simply adore being near river creeks. Iguana can reach a length of 2 meters and weigh up to 5 kg. Powerful tail and sharp claws give it a resemblance to a dragon. For their peace-loving character and friendly attitude to man, the iguana was dubbed a tame dragon.

Manual dragon, of course, has no wings and no fire, but this does not prevent him from being an amazing and unique favorite in many homes. The most important decoration of the house lizard is its back comb, which stretches from the back of the head to the middle of the tail. At the throat of a manual dragon has a leather bag, which, depending on the situation, can swell. This usually happens with the aim of intimidating your opponent.

An iguana can live up to 15 years. The approximate age of a reptile can be determined by its color: in young individuals, the skin has a light green tint, and in their older comrades it is dark. Unfortunately, the not quite right care for domestic iguanas, their improper feeding, as well as the violation of the temperature regime of their content do not allow these creatures to live half of their lives.

That is why before you start a hand dragon in your home, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the conditions and requirements for its content. It is better to get an animal in nurseries or in specialized clubs of fans of reptiles. You should not opt for a too young individual, because at an early age these animals are most vulnerable to errors from inexperienced landlords. But it is not necessary to take an adult either! A suitable age for buying an iguana is about 1-2 years.

If an iguana is acquired in a pet store, then it is necessary to choose the animal correctly: a healthy lizard behaves calmly, its skin is clean (without scars, without scratches and scars), the eyes are without secretions. A healthy iguana has a thick and powerful tail, is not afraid of people. The maintenance of a manual dragon is inconceivable without a terrarium in the house. Naturally, they need to acquire in advance - before buying an animal.

The most convenient housing for a young iguana will be a terrarium of up to 200 liters. But a year later, the terrarium should be replaced by a more spacious one - up to 500 liters. An adult domestic dinosaur terrarium is no longer suitable, as the iguana will need a wooden spacious enclosure with a glass front wall. You can do and completely glass aviary.

Iguana - i.e. cold blooded animal. That is why its content is unthinkable without special ultraviolet lamps and incandescent lamps. For day and night heating mirror lamps of the corresponding power are used. The ultraviolet lamp is used for health: without UV rays, the reptile will not be able to fully absorb vitamin D and calcium, which will significantly shorten its life: the bones will become fragile, and rickets will develop.

Do not forget about a special place for warming up the animal: the domestic iguana in the terrarium should have a snag or large stones placed under a mirror incandescent lamp. The temperature at which the hand dragon warms up should not be less than 35 ° C. It must be remembered that reptiles need a cool place. High humidity is one of the conditions for their healthy lifestyle.

To create sufficient moisture, it is recommended to spray the terrarium with water twice a day using special moisturizing devices. Because in the wild these creatures live in trees, you need to place a few snags in their terrariums. Hand dragons love to swim, and therefore live in nature near rivers. It is necessary to take into account this condition and place a bathing tank near the home iguana.

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If you are wondering how to make a dragon with your own hands, then this master class is dedicated to you.

Dragons - Fabulous creatures that appeal to both adults and children. If everyone likes them so much, why not do it yourself one (or a couple) with your own hands?

First, draw a sketch of it or pick an image you like., the benefit of the Internet images with dragons to spare.

Now it's time to think about the size of your dragon, how the wire frame will be located in his body. Cut the wire for the frame: body, paws, wings.

In order to connect individual parts of the wire, you can solder them or tie them tightly with tape, tape, thin sections even with threads.

To solder the carcass, you need to remove the varnish from the wire with the help of a skin with your own hands;

Give the frame an approximate shape and solder it.

Let's do paws: we solder, we will cut to the necessary length, we will undercut a needle file and we will bend them.

This is how our dragon looks like at this stage.

At this stage, it is very important to make sure that the legs of the dragon are of the same length. It will be a shame to remake an already finished dragon

Now we arm ourselves with toilet paper and wrap it with our own hands in a single layer frame. Cover with diluted PVA glue and let dry.

We act similarly on our feet, only more carefully than on a thick torso, the handmade dragon is already acquiring final shapes.

When wrapping the entire dragon with paper, carefully smear it with glue and let it dry.

Usually dragons are covered with scales. In order to create its similarity, you can use a packing rope. It needs to be glued onto the dragon's body using a universal transparent glue (for example, Moment). Instead of a rope you can use flagella twisted from toilet paper. Before sticking the surface, pre-grease with glue.

We cut off a small amount of rope, divide it and reel it already thin on the basis for the wings. Do not forget about the glue.

This is the result of our work.

We put on the paw a little glue and we wrap it, we reach the claws. Again we divide the rope into three parts, we wrap each finger around, reaching the claw, turn the dragon over and connect all three threads of the string into one. With the connected rope we make a coil around the paw and glue it. Here it is, finished dragon foot.

It remains to seal with a rope all the places where so far the paper is visible. Let's start with the handmade dragon chest. We cut off a piece from the rope that is exactly equal in length to the remaining "hole" on the dragon's body, and begin to lay it down, smearing it with glue. This is probably the most tedious and dirty stage of work on the handmade dragon. Behind the paws and near the shoulder blades we press the threads harder, so that we get indentations.

We continue to glue the rope, make the flagella in the size of the remaining holes. Apply a bit of glue on the tips, twist, glue. So we complete the work on the dragon's chest.

Now we make rope inserts on the hind legs of the dragon.

The gap between the hind legs remained not glued over, we similarly glue it.

When the entire dragon is wrapped, apply a primer and leave to dry. When it dries, it is better to cover the dragon with acrylic paint (for example, white) so that it is solid.

Now came the turn sculpt the dragon's head. For these purposes, you can use a special kERA Plast self-hardening in air, plastic or similar material for modeling. If the modeling masses are very tight, then the dragon’s head can be made from papier mache or salt dough.

First, you need to give a general shape to the head, make fingers under the eyes, form a beak (it will be your nose), make holes with a toothpick and give it the desired shape. Put a scone on top of your head and press everything well, smooth the junction points, give it a shape to your eyebrows.

Attach the prepared wire (curved according to the shape of the head and the horns) on top of the head. Under the wire and on top make sausages and then align everything. After giving the head the desired shape from above, immediately apply a drawing with a toothpick. Apply the paste to the wire for modeling and shape the horns, then sculpt the sausage from below and spread it around where the horn grows. It should turn out as in the photo. While the paste is not frozen, a toothpick or a needle, scratch the horn and the adjacent parts of the head to make the dragon realistic.

We make a notch on the head, where then we place the middle horns.

We begin to make the eyes of a dragon. To do this, roll a small ball and press it into places for the eyes that we prepared in advance (pits). Immediately insert the strazik (or bead). If it does not hold well, glue it. Blind the lower jaw and connect with the upper. Roll the sausage and stick it to the bottom of the homemade dragon's eyes to create a predatory squint.

Spread the sausage under the eye, even (finger). Apply your cheeks and try to shape your cheekbones. If necessary, remove excess paste for modeling. Cover the nape of the dragon with a cake from the mass for modeling and give the final look. If near the head of your dragon, too, there are such needle ornaments (as in the last photo), then make cutouts for them.

Scratch the head slightly with a needle, giving it a skin effect. Head is placed on the remaining unwound end of the wire around the neck.

We proceed to the manufacture of wings, "feathering" of the ridge and needle ornaments next to the head of the dragon. All of them are made on the same principle.

To make the wings, put the dragon sideways on a piece of paper, circle the general shape of the future wings. Finish the veins. The resulting pattern of the dragon wing put under the transparent polyethylene. On top of the veins, lay out and glue the flagella twisted from toilet paper or newsprint, spread them with diluted PVA glue. We put toilet paper, paper towels, napkins or pressed paper (sold in rolls) over the flagella. If you use toilet paper, try to ensure that the joints run along the flagella - streaks of the wings, and not between them.

Turn over, glue on the other side the second layer of paper so that the flagella - veinlets are between two layers of paper. We coat the paper with PVA glue (this should create small folds on the paper), wait for drying, carefully remove the wing from the polyethylene. Cut the wing exactly on the pattern and sticking to the dragon.

Making a ridge. Almost the same as the wings. Place the flagella on a toilet paper at a certain distance, so that they are more often to the tip of the tail and less often to the dragon's neck. Cover with a second layer of toilet paper, coat with PVA, dry. To glue this strip of toilet paper onto the dragon's ridge, first around the middle of the ridge we glue a long flagellum made of toilet paper or a newspaper, glue a strip to it, and on the other side of the strip we glue the second flagellum supporting the protruding ridge.

The ridge is cut to the desired length, cut out the desired shape.

The dragon is ready with his own hands, now it remains only to paint and varnish.

The iguana family is very diverse, there are several dozen iguanas. The common iguana or green iguana (lat. Iguana iguana) is the most common pet of all members of this family. The green iguana is one of the largest iguanas: along with the tail, its body length can reach one and a half to two meters.

Containing these animals, contrary to the claims of some zoos, is not so easy - the iguana requires careful and thoughtful care: a certain temperature is very important, as well as humidity and lighting. A specially equipped terrarium with an optimal living space for each animal’s age is required; It’s also hard to overestimate the importance of iguana-correct feed.

Habitat and lifestyle

This animal lives in the tropical forests of Central and South America, on the islands of the Caribbean. Several populations, the ancestors of which were domestic iguanas, were formed in the Hawaiian Islands and Florida.

In the wild, the green iguana is a diurnal. The green iguana lives primarily in a tree, where it sunbathes, eats and sleeps. Activity an adult animal shows only in search of food and during breeding.

Appearance and habits

The iguana has a developed crest extending from the nape to the middle of the tail, powerful paws with sharp claws helping it climb the bark and branches of trees, as well as a strong long tail used for protection and swimming.

The green iguana is a great swimmer; in the water it moves with the help of the tail, moving it from side to side. Preferring to rest on a tree branch hanging above the water, in case of danger, the iguana jumps into the water and swims away; she is not only a good swimmer, but also a diver - maybe she lurks underwater for some time, waiting for a threat.

Juveniles are more agile compared to their older brothers; they have a very bright green color, which is a certain protection factor for them - this is how they mask themselves among foliage and branches. This is very important for young lizards, which are a “tidbit” for many predators.

Males are usually larger than females; iguanas in captivity are smaller than their wild counterparts living in their natural habitat.

Nutrition

Proper nutrition is a very important element of iguana health. A green iguana is not an omnivorous creature, it is a vegetarian. In its natural habitat, the diet of the animal consists mainly of fruits, flowers, young foliage, and it must also be fed in captivity.

Eating insects is rather random, and only young individuals can afford to swallow an insect, while adult iguanas are convinced vegetarians.

The intestines of this animal for normal work needs rough food and fiber. The iguana should pay special attention to the proper nutrition, since the health and longevity of the reptile depend on the quality and composition of the food.

It will be a mistake to give your "dragon" food of protein origin - mice, insects, fish, meat, as well as dog and cat food, which also happens among not very responsible owners. The use of protein feed in captivity leads to the early death of the animal.

Thanks to proper care and a strict vegetable diet, an iguana at home can live up to 15 years.

If you decide to become the owner of iguana

The green iguana is a very popular pet in the West; interest in it is growing in other countries, including in Russia. Adult tame socialized animal is a real pride of the owner.

It is necessary that the future owner of the green "dragon" weigh all the pros and cons, sensibly assess their capabilities - financial and temporary - and also ask themselves: do I have enough patience and desire to keep this animal at home?

In order to live with the iguana in peace and harmony, we need tolerance, careful implementation of all care recommendations, sincere desire and love, as well as certain financial, domestic and temporary resources. This "dragon" in the content is not easy, and this should be remembered.

The difficulties of keeping iguanas

Read iguana content literature; it is necessary that you estimate in advance all the costs and efforts that will occur when you keep this unusual animal, and understand whether you are ready for these problems, or a less exotic pet version is closer to you.

For such a rather rather small animal, like an iguana, sufficient living space is important, because in a small terrarium one can damage the tail and the nose. You should not buy a terrarium “for growth” for a small lizard: a newborn iguana has a body length of 8-11 cm, and in too big a dwelling it will feel uncomfortable, “lost”. Every now and then you will have to increase the living space of your pet: change the terrarium once or twice as they grow older and grow reptiles.

Although iguanas are excellent pets, creating the right conditions for them is quite troublesome. The absolutely necessary elements of keeping these lizards include proper feeding, lighting and heating. The main reasons for the death of iguanas in captivity - is unacceptable food and the wrong temperature.

A properly equipped terrarium for an iguana is a complex system in which a certain temperature, humidity and light conditions must be constantly maintained. It can take a lot of effort, time and money.

Of particular importance to iguanas are the ultraviolet radiation, which produces vitamin D3, which is vital for iguanas. The easiest way to arrange an animal "sunbathing", but this in our environment can be difficult, so you will need special lamps.

Costs

Green iguana is expensive. The future owner needs to get an idea of the initial costs of the animal itself and its “house” - a terrarium, and then provide for monthly expenses for feeding the “dragon” and maintaining optimal living conditions for it.

It is necessary to take into account the potential costs of veterinary medicine, because, unfortunately, not a single living being is insured against diseases and injuries. Do not forget to write out the phone numbers of emergency veterinary services on a separate piece of paper and subsequently keep it always at hand, so that panic in case of an accident with an animal does not prevent you from promptly calling for help.

It is not recommended to transport an iguana to a doctor by public transport: animals are subject to stress from cars and streets, even while being transported in a closed bag. Plus, there is a risk of hypothermia iguana, but it is contraindicated to her.

Living together

Iguana requires a lot of patience and love. Ask yourself: Do I have enough patience to raise my iguana and turn it into a hand socialized animal? It is important that you do not fear her; It is important for an iguana owner to have a strong character

You should be prepared for the fact that in two or three years the small green lizard will turn into a formidable species of lizard with spikes and sharp claws and, possibly, not with a completely “golden” character. But it is important that this "lizard" joined your family, and not just be frightened by an exotic exhibit, intended to show guests.

If you live alone and are usually always busy with affairs, you will have little time to communicate with your pet, which means that the period of habituation will be delayed, and this, in turn, means that there will be more bites and scratches from sharp claws (they , besides, heal for a long time). The iguanas have dangerous claws, even accidental touching is enough to get hurt. Consider if you are ready for this.

Later, when the animal will not be afraid of you, you should periodically dull the claws with a normal nail file.

Iguanas tend to curiosity. One of the properties of these lizards is the desire to try everything on the tongue. If your iguana walks around the house, it is advisable to remove indoor plants from the accessibility zone - the lizard will certainly taste them, and from living green ornaments the flowers will turn into unsightly bits, and many may turn out to be poisonous to reptiles.

If you travel frequently, this can be an additional test for your relationship with the iguana. Overexposure in a strange house and (or) terrarium for an animal is undesirable and can turn into aggression towards its owner who has returned from a trip. In this case, the educational work and the establishment of trust in contact with the pet will have to start over.

If you are lucky and you have found a person who can care for animals in your absence in the walls familiar to the iguana, you must be sure that this person clearly knows what is possible with regard to your animal and what is strictly forbidden and will not iguana In honor of the established friendship sandwich with red caviar. It is necessary for a person to be familiar with these animals, not to be afraid of them, to understand the peculiarities of their behavior, to notice in time the problems that have arisen with health and so on.

Think about it if you calmly survive if a miracle beast walks your flowers in the apartment, tears the curtains on the windows, steals a tasty morsel from the plate or hurts the carpet on the floor with a sharp claw?

Iguana as a family member

An iguana is not just an exotic animal for interior decoration, and you shouldn’t treat it that way. You need to be attentive to the cattery, otherwise you may not notice serious changes in the behavior of the iguana, you will not be able to react in time to changes in the psyche or illness and risk getting an unhealthy animal that everyone in the house will only interfere with.

The highest degree of iguana taming is a socialized iguana, which is not just a tame animal, but a full member of the family, voluntarily and gladly going to contact with a person.

With due patience and goodwill to the pet, you will receive a tender and devoted friend, the positive moments from communication with which will block all minor efforts and inconveniences. Socialization of the iguana is hard work, but with proper attention and care for this little animal, you will get a calm and tame home dragon.

Good day to all brains! If you know such writers as Ann McCaffrey or George Martin, and are a fan of their work, then you definitely need homemade this brainstorming - the dragon sitting on his shoulder!

Is going to this brainstorming just from wire, foil, scotch and some other “garbage”. These are my first attempts to create handicraft this kind, but I will say that to make such a spectacular homemade easier than it looks at first glance.

Step 1: We will need

galvanized wire of different thickness 16 and 20 (1.6mm and 0.88mm)
aluminium foil
masking tape
filler filler (for example Spackle, Polyfilla)
polymer clay (for example Fimo or Sculpey)
thin cotton fabric
white glue (PVA)
paints and varnish.

Step 2: Wire Frame

From a thicker wire create a frame crafts - the basis of the head, neck, torso and tail. At this stage, a simple loop will completely fit the head. From small pieces of the same thick wire bent in the form of a tick "V" we create front and hind legs, the ends of which are folded in loops (needle-pliers are very useful for this). We fasten the created paws to the frame of the body with pieces of thin wire; Perhaps this is the “tedious” part of the whole. brain strokes. Perhaps the best way to do this is to wrap a thin wire first around one of the legs, then continue to wind it around the frame, and then repeat this procedure for all the legs.

Once all the legs are firmly fixed, we begin to give the dragon shape, bending for this paws and torso. If you want your brainstorming sitting on your shoulder, then leave enough space for it between the legs, and bend the tail so that it comfortably bends around your neck. It is clear that the thicker the wire, the stronger it holds its shape.
Next, starting from the back, we proceed to the creation of the dragon's body itself, and we do this with the help of crumpled foil and narrow masking tape. You can directly “pick up” the foil on the frame, or form “muscles” from it and tape them to it with tape. Add layers of foil and tape in the right places until the shape is formed as needed. But we don’t finish the paws, and we don’t form the shoulders too much, because we still need to attach the wings.

Step 3: Wings

Wings are easier to do first, separately, and only then attach them to the body. mozgodrakona. They, like the paws, are solid. From the piece of wire we bend the two upper “fingers” and forearm of the wings. The remaining pairs of "fingers" are doing, bending two pieces of wire in the middle, and then, just like attaching the paws to the body, fasten them with thin wire to the upper "fingers".

After this, we begin to wrap foil and tape on the wings. On the "fingers" I managed only scotch (without foil), so that they remain thin. And before forming the “biceps” on the wings do not forget to attach to them a small segment of thin wire, with which the wings will be attached to the body.

Fasten the wings to the body brain builders and continue to sculpt the "meat" on the shoulders and limbs with the same foil and duct tape, thereby also strengthening the wings on the body. At the same time, follow your “anatomical” intuition, because who knows how the six-pointed animal “functions”

Step 4: Paws

Remember those eyelets, which we have designated paws? Now is the time to form "fingers" on them. To do this, fasten two loops of thin wire to each paw and tightly wrap them with scotch tape. Then cutting these loops in the middle we will have 4 fingers on each leg, they need to bend, cut to the desired length, give them the desired shape using brainwash and brainstorming. If you look closely, you can see that the tips of these “fingers” are uncovered and protrude like claws. This allows the "dragon" to cling to clothes like a kitten.

Step 5: Head and Putty

The time has come to do your head!

We make twisting horns of polymer clay to our “dragon” (of course, if you want them to be) and “bake” them until ready. And then "on the thumb" - wrapped around the foil, tape, in the right place the horns, until the head homemade will not become the head of the dragon. As I believe, there should be eyebrows, a massive lower jaw and a small chin on such a head. To do this, twist the short "convolutions" of foil and fasten them in the right place. It is advisable to have several pictures with dragons in order to have an idea how dragon crafts should look ultimately.

With winding all! The following action is optional, but recommended. Homemade can be covered with several layers of putty filler to make the “dragon” smoother and hide wrinkles and folds from adhesive tape. You may want to do this in a few days, each time focusing on one particular detail of the mozgodrakon and letting it dry. You can also “paint” small parts with putty, if you know how to do it.

Keep in mind that putting a putty and letting it dry, the dragon will lose the ability to change shape, or it will crack under such bending, so be sure before putting the putty that its shape suits you.

Step 6: Finalize the Wings

Using scissors and paper, we cut the membranes of the wings (roughly), and then transfer this pattern to a thin cotton fabric, which can be used to take an old sheet or a sample from a fabric store, or something similar.

After this, we saturate tissue membranes in the PVA glue and drape their wings with them. brain builders, holding it with clothespins until the glue is completely dry. Excess cropped with scissors and attach the desired appearance to the end of the membranes. I believe that on the wings of dragons should be one or even two gaps.

Step 7: Thorns

As a rule, dragons have spikes of various shapes, and I don’t even guess what their evolutionary purpose is, but they do exist. We make thorns of different types and sizes of polymer clay, and then bake them.

In order to attach these spikes, we “drill” in the right places the holes in the filler and scotch tape with a tapping screw, dip the spikes into the glue and insert it into the holes.

Step 8: Dyeing and varnishing

In the details of staining mozgodrakona I will not, I am not experienced enough in this matter, and there are already a large number of guides on coloring figures. His homemade I covered it with several layers of gypsum to smooth the filler, and then painted it in two shades with a bronze spray paint. My stomach and thorns were painted with white acrylic of ivory tint, for realness I also applied some black acrylic with a dry brush.

And after having covered everything mozgodrakona several layers of varnish-spray, glued his eyes, which were made of rhinestones.

Epic crafts ready, I hope it was interesting!