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The construction of a private house implies not only its interior decoration, but also the exterior cladding, that is, the facade. The most popular solution today is siding, that is, panels of different materials with a lock and hem. It has a number of valuable advantages, excellent performance and attractive appearance. Siding can be smooth and glossy, imitate the structure of wood or stone, so it fits perfectly into any landscape. The most important thing is to choose the right material and lay it according to all the rules.

Depending on the material from which the siding is made, it can be wooden, polyvinyl chloride (vinyl), acrylic, fiber cement or metal (steel, zinc, aluminum). All types of finishes are distinguished by cost, durability, resistance to all kinds of damage and other characteristics.

	Siding view	disadvantages
	It can reproduce any texture, effect looks, has a wide range of colors. The sheathing of this type of siding is resistant to negative factors (can be used at temperatures from -50 to +50), has a low weight and an acceptable price.	With high humidity and sudden temperature changes can be deformed, is afraid of mechanical damage, has a relatively short operational life.
	Resistance to fading in the sun and high temperatures (up to +85 degrees), excellent strength characteristics, resistance to chemicals, does not have the ability to ignite	High price
	The material is strong and durable, resistant to temperature changes, does not contribute to the reproduction of fungal spores and harmful microorganisms	Low sound insulation, the possibility of delamination of the coating from the metal base at the cut points. Aluminum siding is subject to mechanical damage, after which it is no longer possible to return it to its original appearance.
	High environmental friendliness, thermal insulation, variety of texture and pattern on the cut	Insufficient strength, fragility, ability to fire and deformation, difficulty in care, high cost
	The material is able to replace a natural stone, as it is made from cement, water, sand and cellulose. Resistant to weathering, not subject to corrosion, rotting, does not contribute to the development of fungus and mold, easy operation	High price, difficulty to purchase (practically not common in Russia)

If we are talking about colors, the most common are pastel materials - they are much cheaper than bright siding (this is due to the addition of expensive components that prevent fading of the finish in the sun).

About vinyl material should be said separately, as it is considered the most practical and inexpensive option for finishing the facade of any building. It is made of PVC panels and in a large assortment is presented in any specialty store or in the construction market. In addition, vinyl panels are quite simple to install, so all the work can be done independently.

Varieties and elements of siding

In order not to make a mistake when choosing and installing siding, it is necessary to deal with the varieties and additional elements of the material. Depending on the design characteristics and installation features, siding is divided into several types.

Horizontal and vertical siding

Vinyl panels can be horizontal or vertical. The second type is less familiar to the domestic consumer, since in Russia horizontal panels are more often used for building decoration.

To choose the right type of material, you should consider some structural differences between the horizontal and vertical siding.

1. Different geometry and configuration of elements. Theoretically, vertical siding can be mounted horizontally, but without the appropriate experience and knowledge, it is quite difficult to do - the installation may be incorrect in the end, leading to water leakage and other troubles.
2. No additional perforation. At the bottom of the horizontal panels there is a perforation, while the vertical ones do not have it.

Otherwise, these types of siding practically do not differ from each other, as they are made of the same material, and also require compliance with certain rules during installation.

Wall panels

This type of material is intended for facing vertical surfaces and, in turn, is divided into several types:

The main difference between the ship's board and the Christmas tree is the presence of a characteristic break in the center of the panel, the first type being most common in Europe and Russia, and the second in the USA and Canada. Siding types are marked in Latin letters T (triple herringbone), D (double) and S (single). After the letter designation is a number that indicates the width of the panel - for example, the marking S 4,5 designates a single herringbone panel with a bend thickness of 4.5 inches (approximately 114 mm).

Ground siding is a material that is used for covering the bottom of the building. They are twice as thick as conventional cladding panels, thanks to which they are characterized by increased strength, are not subject to deformation and all kinds of damage. At the same time, the mass of the panels is very small, that is, for their installation it will not be necessary to additionally strengthen the foundation.

Soffit

Soffit is in essence a ceiling siding, which is used to close the protruding part of the roof and to finish the ceilings in attics and in the attic. Such panels not only give the building a perfect and complete look, but also protect the space under the roof from precipitation, insects, etc. Structurally, they are divided into two-and three-lane, and in addition, they are perforated, mixed and non-perforated.

Additional elements

To make siding look attractive, it is necessary to use not only panels, but also profiles and accessories that give it a complete look.

These additional elements include:

• the starting profile is used to install the first row of panels, from which the installation work begins;
• finishing profile for fastening a row under the roof;
• the outer corner and the inner corner covers the edges of the cladding panels laid on the outer and inner corners of the building;
• J-chamfer is used for cladding the top of the facade and gives it a finished appearance;
• The J-profile is an accessory accessory used with the J-chamfer;
• H-profile connects the panels in the middle of the wall, closes their edges and is used to implement all sorts of design solutions;
• the molding is a cross between the finish and the J-profile, and is necessary for fixing the vertical plating at the points of transition to the soffits;
• near-window profile is used for cladding of window and door openings;
• ebb plays the role of drainage eaves;
• the platband is necessary for decorative finishing of door and window openings;
• the slope is an auxiliary profile used in conjunction with the platbands;
• the edging profile provides cover for the joints and joints between the panels, and can also replace the starting profile or vertical panels.

It should be noted that all of the above fittings for siding panels can vary in width, length and configuration, and these characteristics are unique not only for the products of a separate manufacturer, but also for each line of facing material.

Installation of siding panels is a fairly simple, but painstaking and time-consuming task, which requires not only accuracy and accuracy, but also strict adherence to the rules of installation.

General rules

The technology and the sequence of installation of siding panels depends on the characteristics of the material and the surface, but there are several general points that should be remembered when working.

1. Installation of siding can be carried out in three ways: on an aluminum surface, directly on the facade and on the crate. The first method has one serious drawback - a high price, and it is possible to mount siding directly on the walls of a building only in cases when they are made of wood and have a fairly smooth surface. The easiest way to install the panels is to pre-trim the facade with a crate that will not only make the lining even and neat, but also speed up the work.

   

2. In the case of buildings of the log house, all the cladding work is carried out only when the building shrinks completely.
3. Vinyl panels are recommended to be fastened exclusively to the factory holes - the material should not be pierced, as this may have a bad effect on its service life.

   

4. Wooden elements are attached with galvanized hardware, otherwise the tree will quickly begin to rot.
5. For beginners, it is better to begin installation from the back of the facade, so that by the time of the transition to the front of the person a certain experience and skills have been developed.
6. Installation of siding panels is performed from the rear corner with overlapping rows from top to bottom, which allows you to make the joints between them less noticeable.
7. When performing work, it is necessary to control the evenness of every third set row, otherwise everyone else will also be skewed.

   

8. A very important point is that under the influence of temperature, the panels can expand and contract - if the fastening force is incorrectly calculated, the panels can subsequently become deformed.
9. The fasteners are driven exclusively into the center of the factory hole. If this is not possible, you should carefully expand the hole with a punch (you cannot hammer nails into the end of the hole, otherwise the panel may be seriously damaged).

   

10. Elements of siding do not need to be nailed tightly - they need to move a little from side to side.

    

    Error 2. The installers screw the screws all the way into the perforation, this can not be done

11. When attaching the panel to the frame, it is not necessary to push it up or down: force is applied from bottom to top until the connection of the upper element clicks into place in the lower lock.
12. At the joints of facing panels with additional elements, a gap of 6–12 mm should be left. If work is carried out at low temperatures, the gap width should be at least 10-12 mm.

    

    

13. Fasteners should be driven in as smooth and straight as possible so that the panels do not deform or warp.
14. If a crack appears on the panel, it is better to replace it with another one, since the crack will expand with time.

The installation process of siding panels consists of several stages, and they must be carried out in a certain sequence - only in this case, the result will fully meet the expectations.

Step-by-step installation instructions for siding

Installation of siding begins with the calculation of the required amount of material. To do this, you can use special calculators on construction sites or a simple formula. The building should be divided into simple geometric shapes, measure their area and summarize the resulting figures. In addition, it is necessary to draw up a detailed scheme of the building's plating, where all the necessary profiles and accessories will be indicated, as well as their location. It should be remembered that about 10% of the total volume of the material will go for fitting and trimming, and if the work is done for the first time, some elements may be spoiled.

After buying a siding, you can proceed to the main stages of work, and the first of them is the preparation of improvised tools and materials.

Stage one. Preparation of tools and materials

Siding panels for installation and materials for the manufacture of lathing must be completely intact, without cracks, chips and flaws. If the work is planned to be performed in the winter, the siding should be allowed to “lie down” on the street at a temperature not lower than 15 degrees.

In addition, you will need to prepare fasteners (screws, nails, staples), which will be included in the material of not less than 20 mm, and a number of tools needed for the lining of the building.

1. Electric saw To accelerate the cutting of siding, it is best to use an electric saw (manual or stationary), and the blade should be set to reverse (when working with wood, the tool is used as usual). If mounting is carried out in a cold time, the blade should be moved as slowly as possible.
2. Scissors for cutting metal. Polyvinyl chloride and other materials from which siding panels are made (especially polyvinyl chloride), are quite simple to process, and using such a tool you can easily give the panels the desired shape.
3. Perforator. Required for drilling holes for fasteners.
4. Punch. It is used for punching holes (so-called hooks) on the sides of the panels when installing siding in under the roof or under the openings.
5. Tool for dismantling siding. It happens that when working with panels it is necessary to dismantle one or several of them, so it is better to get the necessary tool, something like a hook in advance.

In addition to all of the above, for the performance of work should prepare a hammer, jigsaw, level, tape measure and a piece of chalk, and better to protect the eyes with special glasses.

Stage Two. Surface preparation

High quality wall preparation is a guarantee that the siding will look neat and attractive. It is best to mount the panels on top of the waterproof material (waterproofing is not necessary, but experts recommend protecting all places where the siding will come into contact with the walls of the building and the holes). Before starting work from the surface, it is necessary to dismantle the old finish, as well as all the elements that may interfere with the installation: shutters, gutters, etc., and clean the surface of the walls from dirt and dust.

Stage Three. Making crates

Before installing the battens, check the reliability of all building elements: for example, replace all loose and broken boards. For the construction of the framework, dry and straight bars of appropriate size (usually 4x6 cm) with no signs of rot, spots or deformations are taken under siding, and they should be pre-treated with antiseptics and fire retardants (substances that prevent fire). A more reliable, but rather expensive solution is a galvanized profile, which is mounted in the same way as a wooden frame.

If horizontal siding is used for cladding, the frame guides are mounted vertically and vice versa. The distance between them should be 30-40 cm (in regions with difficult weather conditions - about 20 cm). Additional slats are installed around door and window openings, below and above the facade, as well as where additional accessories will hang (for example, lanterns).

All parts must be mounted smoothly, occasionally checking their level. It is possible to fasten the elements of the crates in any way, but the best option is the usual nails. If the frame is mounted on concrete or brick, holes should be made in the walls in advance with a perforator. Places where siding will come into contact with building materials should be reliably sealed to protect them from moisture and frost.

Stage Four. Panel mounting

The most important stage of the building lining is the installation of panels on the batten. It should be carried out as accurately and accurately as possible, subject to the rules listed above. The actual installation algorithm siding panels is as follows.

Step 1.  Determine the point from which the installation will begin. To do this, find a point in the lower rail of the frame, move 50 mm away from it, put a mark and slightly screw in the screw. Consistently move around the perimeter of the building, continuing to mark and screw in the screws. They also need to be screwed into the corners of the building.

Step 2.  Stretch a string between the corner marks, mark the battens on the slats of the place where the corner profiles will be installed (the installation begins with them). Attach a profile to the corner of the frame and put chalk on the edges of the label, then attach it to the crate. In the same way, the other corner profiles, external and internal, are fastened, and the mount must be started from the top hole, from top to bottom.

Step 3.After the corner elements are installed, you can proceed to the installation of accessories on window and door openings: trim, ebb and final cover.

Step 4.Moving along the perimeter of the rope, make a 6-mm indent from the edge of the corner profile and attach the starting profile, and then the first starting panel. If it is attached correctly, the rest of the siding will also fall as it should. A centimeter gap must be left between the elements to compensate for the possible temperature distortion of vinyl. Do not fasten the panel too tightly - there should be a gap of at least 1 mm between the fastener head and the material surface. It is also not necessary to pull the panel upwards, otherwise it may crack or deform.

Step 5.After fastening the accessories, installation of the facing panels is performed, which is performed from the bottom up, starting from the starting ones. The panel is inserted into the first in a row and mounted to the frame with hardware, and they need to be driven in, starting from the center and moving towards the sides. The height of the panel should be set on each other: the lower lock of the superior element is included in the lock connection of the lower one. Panels can be assembled in sections of arbitrary height and width, depending on the design decision. If the panel closes the window or doorway, it is necessary to cut off an extra piece so that it fits between the trim or other accessory.

Step 6.The last top row is set only after the finish line. It is necessary to nail close to the roof, measure the distance between its lower part and the panel lock of the last but one row. From the received figures subtract 1-2 mm for the gap. Take the whole panel, mark it so that it enters between the J-profile and the bottom panel, cut off the upper part with the lock.

Step 7.On the top of the prepared panel to create the so-called hooks every 20 cm - make small cuts and bend them to the front. Insert the trimmed part into the bottom panel and snap it into the locking connection with a slight movement.

In the photo - installation of the finishing bar

Step 8.  The final step is facing the gables of the roof. Work is carried out as follows: The J-profile is fastened along the angle of the gable (if more than one element is required, the second overlap must be mounted 2 cm over).

Step 9.Measure the angle of the roof and cut off the siding accordingly. Most likely, the last panel will have to be nailed with a fastener. This is the only case where it is allowed to drive a nail or screw the screw straight through the panel.

At this installation siding panels can be considered complete. If everything was done as it should, the result of the work will be aesthetic, reliable and durable lining.

It should be noted that the vertical siding is mounted in a similar way. The only difference is that the crate for its installation should not be vertical, but horizontal.

Dismantle damaged panels

If the panel has been damaged and it is necessary to put a new one in its place, the work is performed as follows.

1. Get a hook for dismantling between two panels: the damaged one and the one above.
2. Pick up the lock and pull the tool down along the edge to release the damaged panel.
3. Pull the fasteners with a nail catcher - if they sit too tight, you can simply drive them into the frame elements.
4. Remove the panel, put in its place a new one and fasten it with hardware.
5. Using the same hook, make the top panel on the lock laid, and snap it.

Care siding panels

Caring for cladding siding panels is much easier than caring for another cladding. It should be rinsed from time to time with a hose, and to remove old stains, use a soft brush or rag. In order not to damage the material, you should not use abrasive household tools and hard improvised means. In addition, the siding should not be cleaned with chlorine bleach, organic solvents, substances that contain acetone or are used to polish furniture. Contaminants from its surface are well removed with a solution of water with detergent, as well as any water-based cleaners. If you need to remove from the panel chewing gum, you can use a solution of water and vinegar.

Siding lapped How to make a crate for siding with your own hands

One of the most reliable building materials to protect the entire construction object from any external influences is siding. However, no matter what qualities this material possesses, if the installation of siding is not carried out according to technology, then its protective properties can be reduced to zero. And, despite the fact that this structure should protect the structure from precipitation, exposure to ultraviolet radiation, noise and other adverse phenomena, the slightest disturbance during installation leads to the penetration of harmful substances into the premises.

In this article we will talk about the installation of siding with their own hands, we will give detailed instructions for teapots, as well as accompany all the photos and video materials.

For siding of any building siding tools and some equipment are needed. First of all, it is screws and nails.

For cutting and fastening need a hammer, level, tape measure, plumb, square, pliers-puncher, handsaw and a circular saw with small teeth. If we are talking about the installation of metal siding, it is still necessary to purchase metal shears for trimming panels in the corners. When installing vinyl siding for cutting in the transverse direction, use a sharply sharpened ordinary knife, and for transverse cutting - a circular saw. To protect your eyes, experts recommend wearing safety glasses.

Instruction

The following steps will be described the process of laying vinyl siding. Following simple tips and recommendations, you can perform this work being not an expert.

The first stage is the correct cutting of the material, in order to spend it as economically as possible, and to avoid mistakes in the layout of the panels. To do this, make a plan (drawing), allowing you to correctly distribute the material throughout the lined surface.

Base under siding

Before you begin the installation of panels on the facade of the building arrange sheathing. It is produced in all cases except when the wooden building is faced with panels. For the manufacture of crates using wooden bars, edged boards, metal profiles.

The effectiveness of the installation depends on the accuracy and thoroughness with which the crate will be filled, that is, how strong the base will be.

So, the installation of base siding (as, indeed, any other) will be carried out correctly, if all the irregularities of the wall or the batten are smoothed out. The fact is that in the final version, siding will only swell out all the irregularities and flaws in the preparation. For better quality of work, horizontal cladding with panels is made on a horizontal batten, and vertical installation is carried out on a vertical one, respectively.

If the lining is carried out with the use of insulation, then as a heat-insulating material it is recommended to use rolled insulation, and the use of loose materials contributes to the deformation of the surface.

The basic rule that is required by the installation manual is the formation of a gap between the panels, since the siding is subject to thermal expansion and contraction, and if this condition is not fulfilled, the facade can swell and crush. The panels are fastened with screws or galvanized nails through the corresponding slits of a rectangular shape.

The nails should not be driven in very tightly in the middle of the holes, in which case the fastening of the panels will be strong and reliable. Installation by hammering nails directly in the panel leads to their destruction, therefore it is not recommended.

After fixing the panels, they must freely “walk” in a horizontal direction. Install overlap by about 25-30 millimeters.

To begin with, all panels must be left outside for two to three hours in order for them to become “accustomed” to the outdoor temperature. When installing siding in winter in cold time, the gap between the panels should be no less than twice, that is, it should be about 10 millimeters. In this case, the linear expansion coefficient of the siding will be maintained, and the panels will create a solid and reliable protection of buildings and structures.

The first step that the instruction requires is the installation of the original elements. These are starting profiles, internal and external angles, and special J-profiles. Then you can start the direct installation of siding.

The start profile is the element that starts the laying of all panels and to which all other panels are attached. J-profiles are used for fastening panels in hard-to-reach places, for example, at the junction of eaves with walls, along the perimeter of window and door openings. With the help of this profile, the facades can be given any, most bizarre look, as it allows for mounting, taking into account all the structural features of the structures. Another element used to beautify facades is the finish rail. She sheathes the facades in the top row, thanks to which the surface looks smooth and neat.

When fastening the panels in the vertical direction at the outer corners of the building, the mounting technology involves finishing with the so-called external corners, this allows for a neat appearance of the corner joints.

The inner corner plays the same role, only it provides carefully camouflaged joints of the internal corners of the buildings.

Sheathing siding

Begin paneling with those places where it is expected that they will be exposed to maximum load. These are doors, gates, window openings, etc. This allows all other connections to be isolated from these places. All ordinary siding panels are fastened by means of a “lock” connection. That is, the lower lock of the previous panel (upper) must be fastened to the upper lock of the subsequent panel (lower). Vertically, the lining is produced with an overlap, thus having the ability to adjust the dimensions of the sections, both in height and in width.

Ground siding

The installation of basement siding is simple, so it can be completely done independently. First you need to carry out the preparatory work. From their quality depends on the final result.

The standard size of the plinth panel is 500 × 1200 mm. Their fasteners are performed in the same way as regular siding on the batten. Other sizes can be found, for example, 220 × 3000 mm. Such dimensions require the installation of only vertical obreshetki.

In some cases, decisions are made on plating basement siding of the entire facade of the house. Additionally, the wall can be insulated.

The principle of making the frame is as follows:

1. The crate for the base is best done from a metal profile. A wooden bar in a close distance from the ground may become damp, as a result of which it will become unusable.
2. Based on the climatic conditions, you independently determine the height of the base. If you live in an area where the ground freezes over a lot, then the crate should be raised from the ground level by 150 mm. If it does not freeze, then you can start the installation directly on it.
3. In the manufacture of crates should be installed both horizontal and vertical guides. Thus, the step between the vertical - 900 mm, and between the horizontal - 450 mm.

In the process of assembling the crate frame, be sure to use a level. Otherwise, the installation of base siding will go unevenly.

When the crate is made, you can install the basement siding. Work is the following sequence:

• Mounted starting level horizontally.
• Internal / corner elements are installed on the corners.
• Self-tapping screws with a press washer 4–5 cm long are used for fasteners.
• There should be a gap of up to 1.5 mm between the cap of the screw and the panel. This backlash will allow the panel to move when expanding without difficulty.
• Thermal gaps up to 10 mm should also be left at the joints in the corner of the building. So that they are invisible, they need to close the area-platband.
• Siding installation begins on the left side. So, if on it imitation of a natural stone or a brick, then the panel needs to be cut from the left side so that the equal edge has turned out. After that, the cut edge is inserted into the platband corner and placed on the starting profile. Each subsequent panel fits strictly into the groove. When it comes to the opposite corner, the right edge of the element is also trimmed and inserted into the crown corner.

To increase the insulating quality of the house, installation of siding can be done with insulation. Consider the feature of facade insulation on the example of a wooden house. By installing the siding with insulation, you can simultaneously achieve 3 goals:

1. Renovated facade.
2. Thermal insulation.
3. Moisture protection.

But in order for the insulation to be truly effective, the selected material must meet the following criteria:

• Easy to install.
• Preservation of the primary form.
• Resistance to chemical and biological compounds.
• Environmental friendliness.
• Long service life.
• Low thermal conductivity.

The choice of insulation under the siding is also influenced by two factors: the humidity of the air in your area and the wind rose.

Types of insulation

There is a wide selection of thermal insulation materials for the facade of a wooden house. For example, if you choose a roll of insulation, then the layer should be from 3 to 20 mm. Its fixture is carried out on special glue. You can also use mineral or basalt fibers, which are produced by slabs. Mineral wool and polyethylene foam are very popular. Often also used foam. The strength and effectiveness of this material is time tested.

Most often mineral wool is used to warm the facade under siding. This material retains its original form and is ideal for any type of siding. Minvat produced plates of such sizes:

• 600 × 1200 mm.
• 500 × 1000 mm.

When choosing mineral wool for facade insulation, make sure that its density is more than 80 kg / m 3.

It is mandatory to lay a layer of vapor barrier before laying insulation (usually polyethylene or roofing material is used). It is necessary to prevent condensation between the insulation and the wall.

Vapor barrier when laying the min-wool is not needed. This heater allows steam and does not absorb moisture.

When laying insulation it is important not to leave a single gap and gap. It should envelop the entire facade of the building. Heater itself is fixed on the already made crates. After this process, you can begin the installation of siding, the technology of which was written in this article.

• When installing any siding, it is necessary to avoid excessive tension of the panels when connecting each subsequent row with the previous one. Otherwise it is fraught with swelling, deformation of a separate panel and violation of the surface of the facades of buildings.
• The most recent row of panels is laid after the finish rail is installed.
• Paneling carried out from the bottom up, and complete under the eaves of the structure.
• For installation of siding in the locations of objects, such as pipes, in the panels cut the holes wider than the object by about 6 millimeters.
• Covering the openings with siding using J-profiles, you need to install the upper and lower edges above and below them, respectively. First install the J-profiles, and in them - the edges.
• When installing the siding above the eaves, first install two or three finishing slats, joined with each other (the lower gap is kept within 3 millimeters).

Video

We offer you to watch a video about installing siding.

A photo

Below in the photos, you can view the options for finishing houses with siding:

Scheme

The diagrams show some details of the installation of siding:

The main difficulties in carrying out facing works using siding are surface preparation and fixing of facing material.

In fact, even an unprepared person can easily cope with mounting and mounting.

Of course, one cannot do without technology knowledge here, so in this material we will take a closer look at how to fix vinyl siding and what is required for this.

Siding is used for exterior wall decoration of residential buildings and industrial buildings. In addition to the attractive appearance, this lining has excellent functional properties, such as durability, resistance to temperature and moisture.

If you need to update the appearance of the facade or mask its flaws, siding would be a suitable solution.

With the observance of technology, the surface of the walls will be reliably protected from moisture

This finish is great for regions with a relatively aggressive climate, such as in Russia. Testing of the material was carried out in laboratory conditions, the material proved its strength in practice - after all, it has been in large quantities for several years.

In terms of care, the material is quite unpretentious - in the process of operation it will not be necessary to do paint work every year or to soak the material with special liquids. It is enough to simply wash the vinyl surface using a jet of water from a hose or a damp cloth.

Choosing the right size

For starters, you should purchase the material of the desired color and size. Six-meter panels are usually used for cladding facades — much less waste remains after them, since such a panel is easily divided into products of the desired dimensions. Quite a significant role in choosing siding is price. One square meter costs from 180 to 200 rubles.

Today the range of textures and color options varies in a very wide range. The main manufacturers have in their assortment both monochrome panels and textured ones imitating wood, stone or brick.

How to calculate the amount of material

After selecting the desired color and texture of the material, you will need the necessary for covering the structure. For this it is convenient to use the scheme of the walls of the house - you can draw it yourself, it is not necessary to observe any standards for this. Measure the lengths and heights of all the walls, and calculate their areas using the formula S = a x b, where a is the length, b is the height.

When calculating, you can use these formulas

Next, you should add up all the areas received - this way you will find out how much material you need to purchase for wall decoration. Yes, it is important not to forget to subtract door and window openings from the total area of ​​the walls - they should not be covered with siding.

Since this facing is usually trimmed the whole house, including the gable, you need to measure its area. To do this, measure the length of the base and the height of the triangle from the middle of the base to the upper vertex. The area of ​​the triangle is calculated by the formula S = ½ x a x h (half the length of the base to the height).

The addition of squares of rectangular walls and triangular gables will give you a total area that will be finished with siding. After all the calculations, you can buy the most accurate amount of material, thus minimizing costs.

How to start mounting siding

Before you begin the basic installation and fastening of the cladding, you should prepare the following tools:

Before fixing the panels, you should also clear the walls of weeds and plants, remove all decorations from the walls, remove lanterns and drain pipes. If there are any other constructions on the facade that may interfere with the installation, they should also be removed.

If there are rotten boards on the walls, you need to replace them with new ones, and intact wood should be treated with antiseptic. Despite the fact that all the flaws will be hidden finish, it is better to eliminate the possibility of further destruction of wood.

Shutters, window sills, protruding structures around windows and doors should also be removed. Once clean walls remain on the outside of the house, you can check their verticality with a level.

Installing crates

Crate made of wooden bars

If the deviations of the walls from the vertical are less than 1 cm, and the walls themselves are in perfect condition, the crate can be omitted. For old buildings, most likely the walls were already deformed and not to do without cracking. So, to start the installation of the crates you need to prepare the tools and install scaffolding.

The crate can be made from slats and boards. Reiki attached to the walls of 10 cm nails. They are nailed at distances of 30-40 cm from each other. Before you start nailing boards and slats on all surfaces, you should nail a few starters at the corners of the walls, as well as around door and window openings. Insulating plates are laid between the battens of the batten. It may be foam or mineral wool.

When installing a metal frame, you can use these parameters.

In the case of using metal, the profile for siding is fixed with galvanized screws on the pre-installed brackets.

Siding will be fixed with nails or screws. In any case, the fasteners must be coated with an anti-corrosion coating. It is more convenient to mount the siding on the screws using an automatic screwdriver with a reverse. Simply twisting screws in semi-automatic mode is much easier than hammering nails.

The presence of a reverse screwdriver will allow you to quickly create temperature gaps - just unscrew each screw one turn, so that the panels do not deform under the influence of temperature expansions.

Fixing vinyl panels

To fix the starting strip, you need:

In addition to installing horizontal panels, you need to somehow trim the windows and corners. For this there are special accessories.

The installation of the corners will give the façade a finished look and, more importantly, protect the house from moisture ingress from under the siding. The fixing feature of the corner elements is such that they should overlap the horizontal siding by 1 cm. Again, the structures should not fit together, you need to leave a small distance between them.

The fastening of the horizontal panels ends with the installation of a finishing rail - it has a decorative edging, as a result of which the siding takes on a beautifully outlined look.

Next, the soffit is attached - there is no need to save on this element, since it has an important functional feature. Holes in it are needed for air circulation and facade ventilation. Without good ventilation between the siding and the walls will begin to stagnate moisture.

After getting acquainted with the technology, it remains only to make all the actions described in the article. As you can see, all the difficulties arise directly before fixing the siding itself.

Installing the panels also resembles the collection of the designer and when performing sequential actions - it does not make any special problems. In case the above described technology is not completely clear, we suggest watching the video how to properly fix the siding:

The advantages of siding trim is difficult to challenge. This material has indisputable advantages that distinguish it from other types of finishing materials. The high popularity of siding coatings due to the fact that they have several advantages.

Before laying the siding, you should consider some the features that this type of lining material possesses are:

• high level of environmental cleanliness, which allows not to fear for the life and health of residents;
• siding coating is characterized by significant resistance to any natural temperature changes, and also absolutely does not support the combustion process;
• siding panels are not subject to rotting and are able to maintain the basic shape and color solution for quite a long time;
• the technology of laying this type of coating on the wall does not require the possession of professional skills and the use of special equipment, and a detailed diagram or assembly instruction allows for installation by hand.

In addition, the siding is perfectly combined with other types of finishing materials and allows you to get in the end an original and individual combination for self-design of the house.

Standard laying siding is not difficult, but before laying the siding on the facade or basement of the house, you should carefully read the basic rules of installation, as well as the assembly scheme and instructions.

Siding installation technology (video)

Preparatory work

In order to put siding panels in the most competent way, you should not only carefully study the technique of cladding with the facade material in accordance with the instructions, but also follow the step-by-step procedure. Initially, it is required to determine the required number of panels, which is necessary for the cladding of the facade of the structure. This can be done by calculating the facade area, to which 10% is added to fit the material.

Siding paneling involves the preliminary preparation of the surface from which any foreign elements that prevent installation. All window openings are exempt from the grilles. Also be removed trim, shutters and slopes. In addition, competent installation involves dismantling doors and downpipes. All gaps and gaps on the facade of the house should be sealed very carefully.

The next stage of the finishing process is the manufacture of sheathing on the basis of wooden bars. The frame material is fixed on the wall surface in a vertical direction with a distance of 40 cm between fasteners. The crate cannot be fixed in a horizontal direction, since such an installation can disrupt the natural ventilation of the covering space on the facade of the house. Bars should also be laid around doors, windows and on the corner sections of the house.

It is imperative to provide for high-quality sealing of all areas that may be exposed to moisture. The basic process of home siding trim must begin with the establishment of a starting point. Laying the first row of panel siding follows in such a way that the fixed elements could cover the upper part of the foundation. Thus, you should perform a horizontal marking around the perimeter of the house.

It should be remembered that the framework of the batten can be made not only from lumber, but also with application.

The choice of lathing is based on the type of finishing and must take into account the type of walls of the structure being finished. As a rule, the cladding of the front part is performed by means of wooden, vinyl, basement, steel or aluminum siding.

Basic rules and schemes

Finishing technology siding facilities involves the following basic installation rules:

• Installation of the initial slats, which comes complete with finishing material. The bar should be nailed with small carnations according to the level of the previously made marking.
• The first panel of finishing siding is fixed on the starting plate and nailed with nails, starting from the central part.
• A new finishing plank-section is fixed, and then the subsequent assembly of all the following rows of finishing material is carried out.
• The correct solution is the choice of additional elements from the manufacturer, the siding panels of which are used when performing cladding. Such components are optimal for installation and allow you to perform a reliable, as well as guaranteed durable coating on the facade of the building.

Facing instructions

Most manufacturers that produce certified siding products for cladding front and basement parts of the building, accompany their products with mandatory instructions, a scheme that contains a detailed description of the following conditions for the installation of the material:

• list of equipment and tools necessary for high-quality installation work;
• the need for a full scope of work in additional or component elements, as well as additional products;
• the main stages and rules that involve the installation of the starting profile and corner elements, the installation of frames on window and door openings, the installation of H-shaped profiles for combining siding panels, the installation of a J-shaped profile.

In addition, the accompanying instructions by the manufacturer can be spelled out the possibility of mounting the horizontal and vertical versions of siding panels, as well as installation work on the use of spotlights and J-shaped chamfer. Special attention is required to work on the arched view.

Siding styling errors (video)

Do not neglect the recommendations of the manufacturer for the care of siding panels. This will help to extend the operating life, as well as preserve the quality characteristics of the finishing material throughout the entire service life.