Its popularity among gardeners for many reasons. This beautiful plant pleases with a variety of colors and shapes. In addition, violet unpretentious and with proper care grows well and multiplies. But, nevertheless, you need to know some of the subtleties through which you can grow this magnificent flower like a violet room. Care and reproduction, cultivation subtleties - even a beginning florist will be able to understand these issues, and the violet will delight him with its flowers almost all year round.
A bit of history
Africa is considered the birthplace of violets. But it received its name in honor of its discoverer, Baron Saint-Paul. He brought this wonderful flower to Europe and contributed to its spread. Initially, violet was considered a very capricious plant. But when it was studied and understood the rules of care and reproduction, the popularity of the flower has increased significantly. Today, home violet is found in many parts of the world. Many varieties of this plant have been developed, it is simply not possible to list them.
Types of violets
There are several species of this plant. Regular violet is the most common variety. This violet room (care and reproduction will be described below) has the usual petals arranged in one row. There are a lot of colors of this species. Many varieties were bred flower growers and are not registered, although they are particularly popular.
Terry violet has petals arranged in several rows. The inflorescences of this flower are quite large and very beautiful. Semi-double representatives of this family are distinguished by the presence of several underdeveloped petals in the middle of the flower. They add volume and make the plant even more charming.
Categories of violets
Depending on the color, there are several categories of this flower. Violet, the description of which is always done with an emphasis on color, can be monophonic. At the same time, its petals have a uniform, identical color. The next category is dominated by fantasy coloring. Over the entire surface of the petals there are spots or dots of a different color. If the violet has a bright border around the edge of the inflorescence, then it is called bordered. And finally, chimeras. A distinctive feature of violet is a bright line that runs strictly in the middle of the petal. All these categories are widely spread among flower growers, many of whom are engaged in breeding and collecting violets.
Popular varieties of violets
Violet room (care and reproduction are the same for any variety) differs not only in the color of flowers, but also in size. Mini Saintpaulias are very small plants. Their outlet may be no more than 6 centimeters in diameter. These are microminiature varieties. If the size of the violet reaches 15 centimeters in diameter, then it can be classified as miniature. These varieties bloom very abundantly and beautifully. It was derived domestic florist. The development of violets of these varieties is always very abundant.
They have large terry, white inflorescences. On the surface of the petals are purple or black spots. Leaf color is light green and not uniform. Saintpaulia "carnival" - different lavender inflorescences, which are very numerous. Each petal has a white border and a pattern in the form of a light mesh. These varieties have dark green leaves with wavy edges. Ampel violets have very long shoots. They are best grown in hanging pots, which will be located at some distance from the surface.
Purchase Saintpaulia
How to choose a good flower in the store? Violet, the description of which must provide the sellers, must have a healthy look. First of all, pay attention to the leaves of the plant. They have a light or dark green color, depending on the variety. They should not be yellow. If the leaves have spots or other signs of the disease, it is better to refuse to buy. Socket should not show signs of rotting. A purchased violet should be carefully inspected and all flowers and leaves that show signs of wilting or deterioration should be removed. The leaves of the plant can be washed with running water. This should be done carefully so that moisture does not get inside the outlet. Then you need to dry the soil and transplant the plant into a more nutritious substrate. Pot with violet is placed in a plastic bag, pre-sprinkled with warm water. After two days it is necessary to conduct a moderate watering. On the fifth day, you can remove the package, making sure that the violet has successfully passed the adaptation period.
Soil for violets
Violet is very demanding on the composition of the soil. She likes sour soil. Therefore, the basis of the substrate must necessarily be peat. Heavy, clayey soil can cause the death of a plant. Soil for planting should be light, airy, with good drainage qualities. This is important for a flower like room violet. Care and reproduction will be more effective if you observe all the details. The plant does not like swampy soils. But the peat itself has the peculiarity of quickly drying up and sour.
Therefore, baking powder is added to it, for example vermiculite or perlite. Their properties to absorb, retain and release moisture, saturating the violet root with oxygen, are very important. Sphagnum moss is also an excellent component for soil. It has bactericidal properties and absorbs water well. Supplements should be no more than 50 percent of the total mass. The substrate should not be very saturated. This will lead to the rapid development of leaves and poor flowering. It is better to buy ready-made soil, which will be optimally suitable for planting violets. For self-preparation of the soil should take three parts of leaf, two parts of turf and one part of coniferous and peat soil. Also add baking powder.
Pots for violets
How to grow a violet so that it looks very aesthetically pleasing? Everything is important here: proper care, lighting, watering and, of course, the right choice of a pot. Its diameter should be three times smaller than the outlet itself. You can use pots with a stand that will make the plant more resilient. Due to the small size and light soil pots with flowers easily turn over. Too large a pot can lead to the death of the plant. The root system will not be able to fill all the space and will begin to rot. Violet leaves will turn yellow, there will be no flowering and the plant will die.
A large adult plant can easily fit in a pot, the volume of which is equal to 200 gram glass. It should also be borne in mind that a quarter of the entire space must be given to the drainage. If the variety is large, then you can take a larger pot. There must be enough holes in the pots at the bottom to allow moisture to escape. Therefore, planting violets is usually carried out in plastic pots. Clay containers hold water, and there is a risk of mold. For drainage, you must choose a highly porous material that will provide sufficient air.
Violet roots
The root system is very important for any plant. Healthy roots are the key to good growth and development. Since the violet is very demanding on the ground and watering, the problems with this flower begin in this area. Planting violets should be carried out with a mandatory inspection of the roots. They should be white, with no signs of damage and rotting. In an adult plant, they completely fill the space of the pot, if it is selected correctly. Before you grow a violet, it is necessary to inspect the plant, excluding signs of diseases and pests. If the roots have an unhealthy appearance, then you need to hold a series of activities to restore them. The plant is pulled out of the pot and removed from the ground. Then wash the roots with running water.
Now we need to carry out preventive pruning. All black, rotten and old shoots are removed with sharp scissors or a scalpel. The base of the roots must be cleaned until healthy tissue appears. All infected areas are cut. Leave the violet in the open air for 40 minutes to dry. Clean dishes well washed, pour water into it and put the flower there. We put it on the bright window, not allowing the direct rays of the sun to hit, and wait for the formation of new root shoots. Water must be periodically changed and it should cover all the roots. In 2-4 weeks the violet will be ready for a new landing.
Correct watering
The flowering of violets is always a beautiful, eye-pleasing sight. But sometimes improper watering leads to the death of the plant. If there is a lot of moisture, then the roots of the flower begin to rot. Appear to turn yellow, inflorescences dry out and the plant dies. That is why correct and uniform watering is important. Its volumes do not depend on the time of year. Water should be at room temperature and must be separated. This requirement applies to many indoor plants. There are three methods of watering violets that are considered optimal for this flower. Very often, water is poured directly into the pot tray.
When through time the violet gets drunk, it is necessary to pour out the excess liquid in order to prevent waterlogging. In the second method, pots of flowers are placed in a container of water for a certain time, sufficient for the plant to be saturated with moisture. The third method is the traditional watering of soil in a pot. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that water does not fall on the leaves, flowers, and especially in the socket violets. They are very sensitive to excess moisture and may die from it.
Lighting
The violet plant is very light-loving. Coloring of flowers and their development depends on it. However, it should be remembered that straight lines are destructive for a plant. Literally in a matter of hours, violet leaves can burn out in the sun. Optimal for breeding windows are considered from the north, north-west and north-east side. There violets receive a sufficient amount of light without sacrificing appearance. You can use and artificial lighting. It is used to properly form the outlet. Ideally, it should be level on each side. Violets in March begin rapid development. If the light is irregular, the leaves will begin to rise and unfold towards the source of illumination. For the proper development of the top install lamp artificial lighting. So do all collectors, preparing violets for exhibitions. But for home breeding is quite enough and a simple window. It is only necessary to periodically turn the pot to the light source on each side.
Temperature and humidity
Proper care is needed violets throughout the year. Requirements are imposed on both temperature and humidity levels. Violets in March begin to develop especially rapidly. The result will be a long flowering, which lasts almost all year round. Air temperature should be at least 16 degrees. Otherwise, it will be impossible to achieve abundant flowering and good plant growth, even if all other requirements are met. Do not allow sudden changes in temperature, the plants do not like it. In natural conditions, violets grow near waterfalls and other water bodies. In such places, the humidity is quite high. To provide such a climate at home in several ways. The easiest is to put a container with water next to the flower. You can also install pots with plants on a tray filled with wet sand, pebbles or expanded clay. Also apply regular spraying. This method is effective at high room temperature, above 24 degrees.
Otherwise, white spots may appear on the leaves of the plant, which will spoil its appearance. If the plant has withered a little, its leaves have fallen, then it is necessary to conduct resuscitation. For this, the pot is placed in half in a container with warm water. From above the plant is covered with polyethylene and mixed in a shaded place. In a day, the state of the violet will improve and it can be returned to normal conditions. When placing it should be remembered that Saintpaulia does not like drafts. Therefore, we choose a warm, cozy place with a sufficient amount of light, avoiding direct sunlight.
Reproduction of violet leaf
Violet pink, white, blue, terry or simple, any kind of this plant, reproduces by leaf, cuttings, seeds or division of the bush. The first method has two options. In the first case, carefully cut the sheet is placed in a container (a small pot) with a nutrient substrate. Pot put in a bag of cellophane and tightly closed. Inside there should be enough air for leaf development. Thanks to the cutting will have enough moisture, and the temperature will remain unchanged. Periodically it is necessary to water the sheet, not allowing a strong waterlogging of the earth. When the first ones appear, the new leaflets must be removed, so that the plant can independently develop and adapt to the new conditions. Instead of a package, you can use a glass jar. The second breeding variant is simpler. The cut leaf is placed in a glass of water until the roots. When they reach one centimeter, you can plant a plant in a pot. From one sheet receive from one to several young outlets. It is worth noting that for breeding it is better to take large, healthy leaves of the middle row.
Outlet Transplant
Separate the sockets from each other must be very careful not to damage the root system. Each specimen should have good roots and several pairs of leaves. The upper part of the plant should correspond to the bottom. These proportions must be observed. If there are too many leaves, they should be removed. This will help the plant to settle down better under new conditions and quickly adapt. It is better to replace young sockets in small pots. They should not be too deep or high. Good drainage is very important. In the first days you can make a small greenhouse from a bag or glass jar. Young violets should be regularly aired and watered. Other breeding methods, more complex, are available only to experienced growers. Therefore, one should choose leaf propagation or division of the bush. This is the best option that many growers use.
Diseases and pests
Like all plants, violet pink or other flowers has pests and is subject to various diseases. The main thing - time to identify the problem and fix it. The gall nematode is a disease that contributes to the rapid development of root processes in which worms appear. Method of dealing with this disease does not exist. It is necessary to destroy the plant, throw out the contaminated soil and rinse the pots thoroughly. When a spider mite appears, it is necessary to treat the plant with any insecticide intended for indoor plants. Thrips, insects with wings that infect domestic flowers, are destroyed by timely treatment with Inta-vir or Fitoverm. This will prevent the spread of insects and protect neighboring plants. Earthen mite leads to a change in the external and deformation of the outlets. Violet does not open the buds and ceases to bloom. In this case, it is necessary to treat the plant with an insecticide. Leaves affected by gray mold should be removed immediately so that the disease does not spread. Observing all the rules of care, you can grow beautiful, blooming violets of different varieties that will delight you all year round.
This article will help beginners to understand the specific terms that are often found in conversations of "initiates."
First, we will figure out what elements the plant consists of. The violet has underground and aboveground parts. Under the ground it is the root system and the lower part of the stem. On its elevated lobe, the leaves, which make up the rosette, are arranged in tiers. In other words, a violet rosette is a bundle of its leaves.
Often the outlet is also called the head. So they say: "cut off the head", "root the head." It does not usually mean the entire outlet, but several upper tiers of leaves, the tip. The topmost part of the stem with the leaflets that have just appeared are called the growth points, or growth center.
Violet leaf consists of a leaf plate and petiole. When breeding it is also called the handle. Not be superfluous here to mention the juvenile leaves. These are the very first leaves that remain small when the outlet develops. Although they are suitable for breeding (and quite fast in comparison with the adult sheet), they often give only one weak babe. For this reason, many growers prefer to simply remove them.
In the axils of the leaves can form stepchildren or flower stalks. Pysynki - these are the same only without roots, because they grow directly on the stem. They can be used for breeding violets with a complex color. If you do not plan to multiply this violet, stepchildren are best removed to speed up the onset of flowering.
The word "flower stalk" speaks for itself. This is the shoot, on which the flowers are located, from one to several. In addition to flowers on the peduncle there are bracts, the more developed they are, the more this peduncle is suitable for reproduction. The method is very laborious, so they use it almost exclusively for.
Violet flower consists of pistil, stamens and petals. The latter play a more decorative role; in nature they attract insects for pollination. The pestle and stamens serve directly for fertilization during breeding work. In the pestle, you can distinguish the stigma, post and ovary. The stamens consist of anthers and staminate filaments.
Here are the terms most often you can hear in conversations fialkovodov. Armed with this knowledge, you will easily follow any of their advice and recommendations.
Any questions? I am pleased to answer them in the comments.
SENPOLIA
Homeland violets.
In nature violets grow in East Africa in the Uzambarsky and Ulugur mountains. They received their name in honor of Baron Walter von St. Paul, the governor of East Africa, who, with his bride, escaping from the heat in the shade of trees, discovered unfamiliar purple flowers. Its name "Saintpaulias" received in honor of the name of the discoverer.
Other name - Uzambarsky violet - derived from the name of the mountains in which violets were first discovered.
Flowers so impressed him that he described this meeting in the most enthusiastic expressions. He compared them with the glow of a pale blue light in a bowl, in the center of which a bright yellow flame was burning.
The flowers he found were sent to Germany by a florist and orchid collector to father Walter St. Paul Ulrich von St. Paul. To determine the flowers were sent by Ultrich St. Paul to the botanical garden director Herman Wendland in Hannover, who took them to the Hesnerian family.
1893 is considered the year of the “birth” of violets: this year they were shown at international flower exhibitions, were first described in the magazine Gartenflora and aroused great interest.
Flower Violet (home, indoor, Uzbebar).
Violet (Senpole).
Description of violet.
Violet (Saintpaulia) - It is a low perennial herb with a short stem, from which numerous pubescent leaves on long petioles extend with a rosette. Relate violets to the family Gesnerievyh and grow in the mountains of tropical Africa.
Modern varieties violets (Saintpaulias) unite in groups in the form of flowers. There are simple, terry and fringed varieties. Violet flowers may be single-color - pink, red, white - or multi-color - with different shades in the form of beautiful patterns.
In addition to the usual, there are also ampelous species violets (Saintpaulias) in which the main stem branches, forming several rosettes of leaves. The leaves have such violets (Saintpaulias) less common than regular varieties.
Flower Violet (home, indoor, Uzbebar).
Leaves violet.
Violet leaf.
Violet Leaves have a different shape and color (from light to dark green). Usually leaves in violet (saintpaulia) rounded or heart-shaped up to 8 cm in length, fleecy, brittle.
Depending on the variety, they can have either a monochromatic light - or dark green color, or a more complex one - with a small white spot at the base of the leaf, with a white border or spots. The leaf plate of the violet at the base is heart-shaped, rounded, serrated or entire.
Flowers violets.
Violet flowers have a very wide color range: from snow-white, all shades of pink to dark crimson, from blue to dark blue and purple.
The shape of the flowers and the degree of their terry is very diverse.
Flower Violet (home, indoor, Uzbebar).
FLOWERS Violet.
Violet flowers medium-sized (about 3 cm in diameter) are collected in inflorescences of several pieces. Currently, as a result of breeding a huge variety of hybrids and varieties have been created. Flowers many hybrid violets reach 8 cm in diameter, on one plant there are 70 - 100 flowers.
Flowers are simple, semi-double and terry, with corrugated and wavy petals.
Have violets having a border on flowers, it does not always appear at the first flowering, may appear later in adults Saintpaulia.
Petals of numerous varieties violets Decorate various points, stripes, spots and rays.
Flower Violet (home, indoor, Uzbebar).
FLOWERS Violet.
The smell of violet.
Smell violets missing. Currently, as a result of breeding a huge variety of hybrids and varieties have been created.
Now work is being done to violets They also had a pleasant aroma.
Violet at home.
Violet (Saintpaulia) - unusually popular houseplant. This miniature tender creation of nature conquers with abundant long-lasting (with short breaks almost throughout the whole year) flowering.
In apartments often use ampelous species of violets. Ampiel plants have more voluminous foliage, their stems fall down, outweighing over the edge of the pot, presenting a wonderful living picture.
Home violet - This is a fairly unpretentious plant, but requires proper care. It prefers bright, but diffused light and does not like drafts.
Potted Violets prefer moderate watering with settled water at room temperature.
In pruning violets not necessary. Remove broken and damaged leaves if they turn brown and pinch off faded discolored flowers. During flowering, the plant is better not to rearrange, it can prevent flowering.
Violet flower easily propagated by leaf cuttings. Usually, both young and adult plants are transplanted every year, preferably in spring.
Although violets live indefinitely, but to ensure a large number of flowers and maintain a healthy collection it is still better to grow new plants every 12 to 18 months.
Violets - video.
Flower Violet (home, indoor, Uzbebar).
Pots for violets.
Standard ratio when choosing violet pot - outlet diameter to pot diameter 3: 1. Remember violets have a rather weak root system and in a large volume the risk of overflow is great and, as a result, root rot.
For violets use clay or plastic pots with a diameter of 5 to 13 cm. Pots and flat dishes should not be high, since roots of violets do not grow very deep. To violet developed normally and bloomed abundantly, its root system should braid the entire pot.
Too big and tall pot violet long does not bloom.
Flower Violet (home, indoor, Uzbebar).
POTS FOR FIALOK.
Clay pots better hold air and moisture, so the roots in them rot less often. But such pots are more expensive and fragile and after use they must be thoroughly cleaned and boiled. They are also heavier and the earth in them dries faster. If the pot is glazed, the glaze does not allow water or moisture to pass through.
Plastic pots are lightweight, inexpensive, do not need special care, their range is quite wide.
Violets do not bloom. Why do not bloom violets?
How to make violet bloom?
In order to home violet Bloomed it is necessary to create optimal conditions for it.
Pots with flowers should be kept at a temperature of 18 - 24 ° heat. Of course, small deviations are allowed, but in this case the flowering will not be so lush.
Flower Violet (home, indoor, Uzbebar).
VIOLET
It is very important that home violet Received the necessary amount of light. For abundant flowering, it requires at least 12 hours of continuous illumination daily. That violet not enough light, you can determine the leaves, which are beginning to reach up.
These colors need good bright lighting, but also from direct sunlight. violets must be protected, otherwise burns may appear on their leaves.
The absence of violet blooms may be caused by irregular irrigation, overdrying or over-wetting the soil, using cold or hard water for irrigation. Provide violet necessary moisture.
Great value for violet blooms has soil in a pot. Simple garden soil for violets does not fit. Heavy, too dense earth does not develop normally violet roots and as a result violet bloom is terminated.
And even if initially the pot was good, loose earth, over time, it compacted, and its composition deteriorates - to achieve violet flowers unlikely to succeed.
Flower Violet (home, indoor, Uzbebar).
SOIL FOR Violet.
Potted Violets love bright ambient light. But in winter, due to the decrease in the length of daylight hours, they receive it insufficiently, which helps to slow down the process of photosynthesis. Therefore, it is necessary in the evening for a few hours to include additional lighting.
In winter, do not often water the flower to prevent rotting of the roots. Reduce watering and water only with warm settled water or room temperature water. But if the room is hot and dry, water violetsas usual, but do not fill.
Flower Violet (home, indoor, Uzbebar).
Violet (Senpole).
In apartments with central heating it is very difficult to maintain the necessary room violets humidity. You can increase the humidity if pots with violets put in a pan with expanded clay and water.
Back in October, stop feeding the plants. In adult violets, still forming a few flower stalks, it is better to remove them immediately. Because the flowers will only take away from the plant the forces that will be needed in the future, for full flowering after a period of rest.
Generally, violets not bad tolerate a decrease in temperature to 15 - 18 ° just slowing growth. But home violet does not tolerate low temperatures, so if you are cold on the windows, it is better to remove the flower from the window sill. For violets temperature is already critical at 12 °. Potted Violets they do not like their roots to freeze. Root and aboveground parts may rot. If the window sill is cold, put the pots on a wooden pallet or foam. It is also not desirable that the leaves violets touched the cold window, otherwise they appear spots of rot.
But overheating and dry air in the winter months lead to the fact that the buds are not laid, or will give shredded quickly fading flowers.
The most popular among indoor flowering plants are flowers Violets. A variety of varieties allows you to find the only instance that will take possession of the heart of the owner for life. Or you can collect a collection of flowers, selecting according to an arbitrary interesting feature: the shape or color of flowers, leaves, sizes of rosettes.
There are clubs that unite fans of Violets. They include experienced flower growers, beginners, and amateurs without wards. Varieties of Saintpaulia (the second name) are displayed in a variety, and the work is still ongoing.
Species description
In a rich assortment of room representatives, definitely directed varietal features are divided. You can select several directions among the signs.
Rosette standards. Separate category are ampelous (trailer) Violets. The rest are divided by outlet diameter. Presented by five groups:
- Standard large collects individuals, with indicators from forty to 60 centimeters.
- Standard more modest. There are already individuals, ranging in size from twenty measuring units.
- Midi include representatives with a 15-centimeter size at the lower boundary of the aforementioned group.
- Mini limited to one and a half dozen centimeters.
- Micro smallest available varietal room violets. Their diameters are not more than six centimeters.
Leaf forms. All sorts of outlines and external characteristics of leaves are collected in this direction. From oval to elongated shapes, with varying degrees of omission, the distinctive lines of the edges of sheet plates (from solid edges to corrugated).
Leafy color. The color scheme for the upper part of the leaf blade is very diverse. Starting from all shades of green and reaching almost black tones. In addition, there may be colored streaks and specks similar to splashes. The lower part is not inferior in diversity. White, purple, purple. As monophonic, and with color spots.
Flower structure. Varietal landmarks of domestic Violets are delimited by the classical, star-shaped, bell-shaped petal arrangement. There are also such specimens in which the petals are elongated, hemispherical arrangement. At the same time there are for almost all types such forms as terry, semi-double, simple. Bell-shaped do not have double flowers.
Flower palette. Features of the variety in this case imply monochromatic floral colors, doubled in shade or in color, multi-color variants. Often found with single or double border, spots, rays, peas.
Violets homemade
Among the numerous representatives of domestic Violets, the following groups of varietal specimens are most common:
- Red (lat. Violaceus rubrum). Long leaf leaves are ovate, rounded or oval in outline. Velvety, with differently painted sides. The outer part varies from light to dark green. The reverse side can be either green, light shade or violet.
Flowers are placed in groups of five, seven pieces on one peduncle. Long flowering period (from eight months). The color palette is widely represented by an impressive spectrum: wine, coral, maroon, ruby, purple and raspberry color.
- White (lat. Violaceus album). Prefers shading. Cultivated as a perennial indoor and garden plants. Bushes grow to a quarter of a meter in height. Reproduction effectively daughter outlets, which are formed in large quantities.
The triangular heart-shaped leaves are green or darker in tone. Flowers are arranged singly on 15-cm peduncles. Large sizes, thick terry, bloom for one and a half months in cool conditions since May.
- Blue (lat. Violaceus hyacintho). Strongly branched plant can stretch up to forty centimeters. The shape of the crown is semi-sprawling. Dark leaves ovoid or oval, narrowed in the upper part, are located on the petioles.
The flowers are formed in the leaf sinuses one by one. The diameter reaches up to one ten centimeters. The corolla consists of five petals wavy along the edge. The variety of colors is represented by monotonous variations from sky blue to sapphire purple, and variegated patches and divorces on the basic tone.
In the home maintenance of Saintpaulia, water treatment takes the last place to maintain the brightness and decorativeness of the flower. Covered with dust, p asthenia needs to be laundered under low water pressureset at room temperature. Before returning to the place, it is necessary to give Violet time to discuss the foliage in a warm place.
Place for Violets
In terms of room placement, Eastern and Western windows are excellent. Acceptable use and northern directions. Arrangement on the south side will require the protection of the plant from the resulting sunlight.
In the case of growing a large number of Saintpaulus, it is appropriate to organize certain spaces for maintenance and care. The rack equipped with additional illumination will become the successful decision.
Shine
Violet light-loving flower, however, does not tolerate direct daytime sunlight. Morning and evening hits are allowed. For even development, it is necessary to turn the plant to the light area, changing sides every three, four days.
When directed and stretching up the leaves and cuttings requires additional lighting. Under existing conditions, the flower is dark. Light day is needed for up to 14 hours throughout the year. Rest periods at Saintpaulia are not provided.
Temperature
Successful is the temperature regime within a little above two dozen warm degrees. Raising, as well as lowering the indicators, has a bad effect on the development and condition of the indoor flower.
So, + 15 ° lower thresholds, stepped over which Violet stops in growth and does not develop. Should protect the ward from drafts and sudden temperature changes (the plant is able to get sick).
Humidity
Watering
An important component of care is regular watering. When watering all individuals at the same time, the need for hydration is able to prompt a specimen with long leaf petioles. Water all the plants will need to start lowering the leaves of the control sample.
Otherwise, watering is carried out when almost the entire soil substrate is dried. Water used is well settled. or passed filtering. Temperature must be at room temperature. A bad idea is to use distilled water.
It is actively absorbed salt washed out of the ground (both harmful and useful), which adversely affects the nutrition of Saintpaulia. There are two ways to water:
- Upper - moistening is carried out by means of basal watering. It should be carried out carefully, preventing water from entering the leaf surfaces and the growing point. After waiting for about a quarter of an hour, the excess water, collected in the pan, is drained.
- Lower - A better way to plant health. True, it takes a little more time than the previous version. The container with the ward is placed in a container filled with water to a level above the middle of the pot, without pouring over its edge.
By wetting the soil surface, the vessel with a flower is removed from the water, allowed to drain to excess, set in a permanent place. A necessary condition for any watering is not a wet condition of the soil, but a wet one.
Irrigation mode is formed on the basis of warming the air in the house and the composition of the soil. On average, with top watering, repetitions are carried out up to two times a week. At the bottom - with a break of one and a half weeks.
Priming
The use of a universal primer for flowers (for example, Terra Vita) is acceptable. Interestingly, the specialized ready-made substrate for indoor violets is not suitable for all members of this species. Help in the implementation of quality care is a homemade mix. Its composition is simple:
- Humus (one part).
- Sand (also quantity).
- Leaf land (two parts).
- Land sod (half portion).
- Bonemeal and superphosphate are added to the mixed substrate at the rate of half a glass and a tablespoon per bucket (10 liters), respectively.
The resulting land complies with the requirements as applied to the Saintpaulias. Namely: nourishing, loose, well absorbing water and passing air.
Fertilizer
Home care for the flower provides and tracking the need to feed the ward. In most cases, the use of fertilizers is not strictly necessary. Nutrition is quite enough when regular transplants are carried out (on average, once a year). When applying fertilizers, it is better to choose in liquid form..
In water for irrigation add half the recommended dosage (glut is more dangerous than a disadvantage). To carry out the watering process is better in the lower way. Regularity is maintained once with a pass of one and a half to three weeks. For juvenile growth, the need arises for the nitrogen component, while bud formation and flowering require the addition of phosphorus.
Transfer
The beginning of the process is the selection of the optimum capacity for<переселенца>. Both ceramic and plastic are equally good. A rich selection of plastic products has gained great popularity among fans of Violets. Price plays a role with proper quality.
Having decided on the material, comes the turn of the size selection. The general condition for choosing for all adult individuals is as follows: the diameter of the pot is one third of the diameter of the plant. Juveniles are seated in containers up to six centimeters in diameter. The transplant process proceeds in the following order:
- At the bottom of the selected tank, the drainage layer is poured. Suitable claydite, crumbled foam, vermiculite. The thickness is at least one third of the capacity.
- On top is placed several small pieces of charcoal. It has disinfectant properties.
- A small amount of substrate is poured directly onto the resulting layers. Violet is placed by the method of transshipment (with an old earthen clod). Radical neck falls three centimeters below the edge of the vessel.
- The voids are filled with the remaining soil with light shaking off (to fill the entire free volume).
- At the end of the earthworks, the soil is watered.
Engage in a transfer procedure preferably in March. Adult specimens often do not require the replacement of capacity. Replacement of the soil is recommended every year. During flowering, the plant is better not to disturb. The sharp need for transplant involves the removal of all flower stalks to alleviate the stress state of the flower.
Breeding methods
Obtaining new copies is possible in three ways: seed, leaf cutting and additionally formed rosettes (children). Vegetative methods are very similar to each other. A sufficient idea of reproduction can be seen in one of them.
Seeds
The most difficult method of reproduction among existing. Justified in the case of the only method of reproduction. Small transparent container filled with perlite or certain layers of different components in a given sequence (fine fractional sand, sphagnum moss, nutritious soil).
Do not forget about the very basis - drainage. In this embodiment, charcoal will serve well. At the end, the prepared land is leveled and watered. Sowing takes place in small grooves, on the surface with a mixture of seeds and sand.
A mini-hothouse is being equipped with daily ventilation and spraying of the soil surface. The picking is allowed during the development phase of the third and fourth true leaf in individual pots.
Cuttings
Simple and less troublesome reproduction by rooting a leaf with a part of the stem is up to 4 centimeters. You can post with the same result in a jar of boiled water, and in any water-absorbing substrate. Care is to maintain a temperature of +22 degrees (two degrees is acceptable in any direction).
The appearance of young stock is after a month and a half. Fortified<малюток> settled in personalized packaging. The adaptation period is carried out all in the same mini-greenhouse, lasting 3 weeks.
Violet (lat Viola) - genus of herbaceous plants of the family Violaceae (Violaceae).
Violet has a short stem that carries an outlet of hairy, strongly pubescent leaves. The leaves are broadly oval or round, the shape of the ripple varies depending on the variety. Different types of outlet diameter can vary from 7 to 40 cm or more. The flowers are simple five-membered or double, of different colors, collected on stalks of 2-7 pieces.
Violet takes the first place in the world among indoor plants. Flowers are the most perfect creations of nature. Violet, personifying the arrival of spring, the revival of nature, a favorite flower in many nations. These delicate little flowers are full of grace, unearthly beauty and perfection. Violet blossoms nine months a year, regardless of the season, without causing allergic reactions. Not whimsical at all, does not require bright lighting, good land, large pots. The smell of violets has a great effect on the body, intellect and soul at the same time, tuning it on an optimistic note, relieving tension, activating the body's defenses, helps from insomnia.
Types of violets
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Violet care
Temperature. Based on data on climatic conditions in the homeland of violets, the optimum temperature for growing is 20-24 ° C. At a temperature of 20 ° C, adult specimens bloom for a long time, flowers are large, they stay on plants for a long time. For young, developing plants, recently separated from the parent sheet, it is better to set the temperature above 23-24 ° C.
However, in winter, plants often experience a decrease in temperature, especially if they are on the windowsill. If the temperature is 16-18 ° C, it does not noticeably affect their condition. You only need to take care that they do not get cold air during ventilation. In order to avoid overcooling of the roots it is impossible to keep the plants on a cold stone window sill, it is better to place it on a wooden stand.
Fertilizer. Immunocytophyte is a multi-purpose stimulator of protective reactions in plant growth and development. Designed to increase resistance to disease (late blight, Alternaria, rhizoctonia, black leg, true and downy mildew, gray and white rot, bacterioses, various types of scab), resistance to adverse weather conditions, acceleration of growth and development of plants. Immunocytophyte is a mixture of ethyl fatty acids and urea with the content of active ingredient ethyl arachidonic acid (0.16 g / kg). Immunocytophyte is available in blue (violet) tablets.
Immunocytophyte accelerates the growth and development of plants, fruit ripening, promotes healing of wounds when insects damage plants, and increases anti-stress activity. The period of the protective action of an immunocytophyte is up to 45 days.
Air humidity for violets. Under natural conditions in the homeland, the violet grows near streams and waterfalls, near obmeshlyakh stones, so the air is constantly saturated with moisture. Optimum humidity for violets 60-70%. In the rooms, especially with central heating, this figure is often around 40%, which is not too useful for people. A normal humidity of 45–50% for us will be quite suitable for our pets. Since it is difficult to create such humidity in the entire room, it is necessary to increase it near the plants, creating a favorable microclimate for them.
There are several possibilities for this. The first is that violets are placed in flat containers (it is convenient to use standard metal baking trays of 33-45 cm, which are sold in hardware stores). They put water in a layer of about 1 cm. To prevent the roots of the plants from suffering from excessive moisture, they put the pot in a small saucer. Vaporizing, water increases the humidity of the air near the plants. Peat moss can be placed on a pallet with a sphagnum layer of about 4 cm, which is highly hygroscopic. As the moss dries, they moisten. You can use the sand.
For many indoor plants it is useful to spray them with water from a spray bottle. But for violets with their thick pubescence, this method is unsuitable, you can only spray water on the plants, and near them, creating something like fog.
It has been noted that the culture in the kitchen, where there are more fumes, is doing very well. This is especially important for young plants. To create them high humidity, they are placed in a greenhouse or covered with a glass jar or a bag of plastic film. But we must remember that for adult plants such high humidity (80-100%) can cause fungal diseases, especially if there is no inflow of fresh air.
The optimum air humidity for our plants is 50-60%, but adult specimens are often satisfied with less (30-40%) humidity with the correct temperature and regular watering.
Watering. For irrigation, it is easiest to use ordinary tap water, which was kept in an open container for 2-3 days. We do not recommend using magnetized water. It may give good results at first, but will subsequently negatively affect the plants.
How the moisture regime is observed can be judged by the appearance of the plant. If the leaves are constantly resilient, well-colored, then the watering mode is correct. When the leaves begin to wither, this indicates overdrying of the soil. If it has dried out very strongly, most of the leaves become as if soft, they fall, hang down from the edges of the pot, and the earth moves away from its walls. In this case, the pot is carefully lowered to ½ the height in warm (25-27 ° C) water, incubated for 1-1.5 hours, and then put in a shaded place, covering the plant for a day with plastic wrap. Usually after a day, violet leaves again become elastic.
If due to a thorough drying of the plant coma, a part of the thin roots has died, it doesn’t restore its original form so quickly: after all, until new roots develop, the plant will absorb moisture more slowly.
Some amateur flower growers are afraid to “pour” their violets and constantly keep them on the “water diet” - they rarely and not enough water. Such specimens do not die, but grow slowly, the flowers shrink from them, the leaves sometimes get a yellowish tint. They are more exposed to various diseases, more often they die in winter. With excessive watering, when the moisture constantly stagnates in the pallets, all the capillaries of the soil are filled with water, the access of air to the roots ceases, the plants are as if choking and dying. This often happens when planting in a pot of too large size or due to the lack of normal drainage in it.
With a constantly wet coma, the lower leaves of the plant begin to descend (as during drying). To determine the cause, the plant is carefully removed from the pot and inspect the root system. If the roots are brown, the skin can be easily removed from them in the form of a stocking - these are signs of decay of the roots of violets - the plant must be saved. Carefully wash off the ground from the roots, remove all rotten parts with a sharp razor and lower the remaining living roots for 30 minutes into a faint pink solution of potassium permanganate. Then the plant is planted in a small pot with a diameter of 6 cm with a very loose earthy mixture (from equal parts of minced sphagnum, sand and leafy earth).
Often, novice growers ask: "How often, how many times a week do you need to water the violets?"
The main condition for a successful culture: watering should be regular, it should not be allowed to dry the earthy coma. Usually used one of two methods of irrigation: from the bottom of the pan or top.
With ordinary watering from above, it is necessary to water a thin stream of water in the edge of the pot so as not to blur the surface of the soil. In no case should water fall on delicate young leaves, in the center of the outlet, accumulate there. For irrigation, it is most convenient to use a small watering cup with a long spout (a short spout can be falsely lengthened using a glass tube and a rubber “coupling”).
Watered until excess water flows through the drain hole to the drain pan. It is impossible for the water to stagnate for a long time - this can lead to "acidification" (or rather, alkalization) of the soil and rotting of the roots, therefore, after 30 minutes, the excess water must be drained.
When watering from above, water, seeping through the earthen room, washes out part of the harmful salts, which is beneficial for plants. In winter, it is useful to water the plants once a month with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (light pink). The same should be done immediately, if signs of overfeeding are noticeable. The pot is put on a glass jar and carefully watered with a solution (0.3-0.5 l per plant). Through the drainage hole, it merges into a jar, freeing the earthy clod from harmful impurities.
When watering from the bottom, the water is absorbed into the earthen room, in which harmful salts gradually accumulate. The plant begins to wither, especially if the water is hard.
In many cities, for example, Moscow, the water is too hard, contains a lot of calcium salts. The use of such water leads to the fact that a whitish bloom of salts appears on the surface of the earth and on the edges of the pot.
How can you soften such water? Florists invented many ways. Even a simple boiling of water leads to the fact that some of the salts precipitate. Latvian growers recommend placing a bag of peat (approximately 200-300 g per 10 l) in a bucket with irrigation water or dropping a handful of peat moss peat moss into a bucket. You can sometimes (once every 1.5-2 months) pour the earth with water acidified with vinegar (it is better to use 6% apple vinegar) at the rate of 1-2 teaspoons per 3 liters of water.
Due to the excessive content of calcium salts in the soil, the roots cannot absorb some elements, for example, iron, magnesium, although they are abundant in the soil.
What time is best to water? Experts of the Main Botanical Garden of the Russian Academy of Sciences recommend watering in the spring and summer in the morning, autumn and winter - in the afternoon. Obviously, this can be explained by the fact that early in the morning the intensive process of photosynthesis begins in the light, it dawns much later in the winter and autumn. If violets are artificially illuminated, this is not essential, it is only important to always water at the same time.
When watering, water drops sometimes fall on the leaves, which is why they become covered with white irregularly shaped spots and stripes.
Reproduction violets.
Peduncle. The reproduction of violets by the peduncle is used if it is necessary to preserve and transmit to the offspring the complex (fantasy) color of the flower. This is, first of all, chimera varieties that do not transmit varietal color during reproduction by leaf cuttings. This is only possible rooting stepchild or peduncle. It is possible to propagate the peduncle and the fancy variety that you like, especially if it produces many varieties or has a multicolor coloring with dashes, strokes, specks. Reproduction peduncle almost 100% transmits fantasy color. I'll tell you about my way of rooting.
Break out a healthy strong stalk with the most beautiful flowers. We lay on a hard surface, cut off the lower part with a sharp blade, leaving 1 cm to stipules (small leaves on the peduncle). All flowers and buds are also removed, leaving hemp up to 3-5mm tall. The remaining small "tree" is exactly what we need. Sections are well powdered with crushed charcoal, which has the same effect on plant sections as iodine for humans.
Take a small pot or a transparent plastic cup. Lay a 1.5 cm layer of moss on the bottom. Fill in a layer of ground mixture of the same composition as for rooting of leaf cuttings with a layer of 2-2.5 cm. With a wand in the center of the pot do the groove and carefully insert the peduncle to the stipules. A little water and put in a hothouse or package. The moss on the bottom of the pot after watering should remain dry! Paste the name of the variety and the date of planting. For some time, the flower stalk will “freeze” while the roots are being formed. It is necessary to air the plant rarely, and there will not be much condensation in case of poor watering. And greenhouse conditions will help start the rooting process more successfully. Pot set in a bright, but not sunny and warm (+ 20-24 ° C) place.
The success of the whole event, in my opinion, lies in watering. It is necessary to water very little, so that the moss below the pot remains dry. Therefore, it is better to plant in a transparent dish so that it is convenient to observe the process. If everything is done correctly, then after a while small leaves will appear in the axils of the stipules — our future sockets. The timing of the appearance of small rosettes is very different. They may appear in 1.5 months after planting the peduncle, and may be much later.
Active growth of small leaves in the axils of the stipules indicates successful rooting. The leaves of the bracts themselves can also grow a little. Through the transparent walls of the pot, a mesh of white roots is seen, twining around an earthen room. Now you can gradually open the greenhouse or package, accustoming the plant to room conditions. Watering the same, in small portions and only when the top layer of the earth dries out.
When young rosettes grow 2-3 cm high, we remove the pot from the greenhouse or package. If the rosette has a “leg” without roots, you can wrap it with sphagnum moss to form them. We grow until 2-3 pairs of leaves are formed and we plant them, as in the usual separation of children, when we multiply the violet with a leaf handle. As a result of our work we get an exact copy of the favorite variety. I would not say that rooting the peduncle is more difficult than leaf reproduction. The main thing, in my opinion, is a healthy and strong peduncle, loose soil and a neat watering.
Leaflets. The best time for cutting violets is spring and summer. At this time, adventitious roots are formed faster, young plants grow stronger.
The leaves for grafting are separated from healthy, well-formed plants. Choose developed leaves of medium size. In young plants - a little more than a year old - you can cut the lowermost leaves, in older specimens - from the second bottom row, since the lower ones will be somewhat outdated. Young leaves, located closer to the center of the rosette, rooted faster, but the offspring may be weakened. Old or beginning to turn yellow and dry leaves, slowly form roots, often die, not having time to form young seedlings. Large leaves, especially with wavy edges, are also inconvenient for rooting - they are unstable in the ground, and they barely grow.
Sheet carefully cut off, trying not to injure the scape. Then at a distance of 3-4 cm from the leaf blade with a sharp blade of a safety razor, anew make an oblique cut approximately at an angle of 45 °.
What rooting cuttings violets? There are several methods. Many growers are more likely to root the leaves in the water. This method is convenient because you can observe the appearance of roots and their growth. However, sometimes there are difficulties when planting leaves in the ground, the roots can be injured.
Water for cuttings must be clean and soft; distilled is best suited. Tap water is fairly clean, but often quite tough. Adventitious roots develop slowly in it, often stalk rotting. If the water hardness is very high, the roots do not appear at all. Boiling does not significantly reduce the rigidity, to mitigate, you can use the methods discussed in the section on watering. Lake, river, well water, depending on local conditions, has a different degree of hardness. But such water must be boiled, otherwise green algae may develop in a container with leaves.
Sometimes use the water formed during the defrosting of the refrigerator. It is soft enough, but it must be filtered through cotton (to remove food crumbs, fat, etc.), and then boiled.
Many flower growers use rainwater for rooting leaves. However, it often happens that, despite the apparent transparency, it contains harmful industrial compounds for plants, and the leaves may die.
You can use melted snow water. In the spring, it is characterized by increased biological activity and the roots develop rapidly in it.
Recently flower growers sometimes use boiled and rapidly cooled water without air access. Convenient for this pressure cooker: boiling water, put it without removing the lid in cold water. Such water also stimulates the appearance of roots.
Purely washed and boiled bubbles from under the medications (preferably dark), jars of mustard or mayonnaise, small faceted cups made of simple glass can be used to bark leaves in water. It has been observed that in some vessels the roots appear quickly, and in others - much slower or even not formed at all, although outwardly the vessels are almost the same. Interestingly, in the crystalware, no variety in our practice has given roots. This is probably the case with glass.
In a wide-mouth jar, several leaves can be rooted at the same time, but they should be placed freely, without overlapping each other. To do this, cover the jar with thick (preferably parchment) paper, securing it with adhesive tape or an elastic band, then make several holes in the paper and insert each into the stem. Before planting the cuttings in the ground, the paper is cut.
When rooting leaves in water, it does not change, but only topped up as it evaporates.
Some put a leaf with a stem in a glass filled with about ¼ of the volume, so that the sheet rests on the walls of the glass and the whole glass is placed in a plastic bag, tightly tied up - in this case you do not need to worry that the water will evaporate. The cutting must be submerged in water no more than 1.5-2 cm and not touch the bottom (otherwise it may bend and it will be difficult to plant it in the ground).
Good results were also given by the method recommended by English flower growers: the leaves with petioles are laid out in a deep plate so that the leaf blades lie along the edges and the petioles are in the water. With this method it is more convenient to provide each sheet with a label with the name of the variety.
If the end of the stem is rotting, it is cut to healthy tissue and placed in another vessel with fresh distilled water. You can try to root it in the ground or sphagnum.
Leaf violet cuttings are best kept in a bright, but not sunny place. After about 2-3 weeks, roots appear on the stem. No need to wait for them to develop very strongly. When their length reaches 1.5-2 cm, the most favorable time comes for transplantation into the earth mixture.
It should be very loose, contain a minimum of nutrients, have a fine structure (preferably sieved). This is necessary not to damage the delicate roots of young plants when they are separated from the uterine leaf. Approximately one third of the mixture should be well washed sand. Significantly improves the substrate finely grated sphagnum moss, which has bactericidal properties. Instead, you can use sifted red peat. It is desirable that the mixture was about 1/3 of the substrate prepared for adult violets (only without manure humus). You need to add a little crushed charcoal for disinfection. The substrate should always be moderately wet.
Leaves rooted in water can be planted in small clay pots (about 7 cm), but it must be borne in mind that moisture evaporating through the walls cools the earthen room. In the greenhouse, where the humidity is very high, this phenomenon is not observed. To increase the relative humidity of the air, the leaves, planted in pots, covered with a plastic bag or a glass jar (once a day or two needs to be ventilated). Shelter is removed when young shoots appear. Direct sunlight should not fall on the leaves to avoid overheating.
When planting rooted leaves, flower growers often encounter such a difficulty: at the very first watering, leaves that have not yet become fixed in the ground fall from their own weight. To prevent this, you can take any thin stick - a splinter, an old knitting needle (it is very convenient to use light plastic “straws” for cocktails). One end of the stick is stuck into the ground, and the other end is supported by a sheet.
Violets are well rooted in fresh green (live) peat moss sphagnum. But it is important that it retains its vitality. Sometimes sphagnum dies from insufficient lighting. He is very sensitive to watering. It is better to use sphagnum with short stalks, planting it in enameled or earthenware; plastic is not suitable, as it can act on the acid secreted by moss. Tops of moss lightly trimmed with scissors. Moss can be treated with a weak fertilizer solution.
It is necessary to plant violets rooted in sphagnum when young growth grows to 5-6 cm. With a more elongated growth, it will be difficult to free the developed roots from moss.
Another common method is rooting leaves in an earth mixture. Small boxes (35 x 25 x 4 cm in size) made of pine or spruce planks, lined with plastic wrap, are convenient for this. An earth mixture (3-4 cm) is poured on the bottom, moistened with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Leaves are planted at a distance of 4-5 cm from one another, to a depth of no more than 1.5 cm, otherwise young sprouts will have difficulty making their way through the ground. Leaves are strengthened with chopsticks or “straws”; for stability, leaves with shorter petioles (2-3 cm) can be taken. A wire frame is installed above the box and covered with plastic wrap, leaving a small gap for air flow. The film is removed after 3-4 weeks.
By this time, the leaves are already fixed in the ground. In the future, they increase in size and shade the emerging growth. Therefore, when the plant reaches a height of 1.5-2 cm, the plates of the parent leaves are cut in half, which increases the luminosity of the shoots and contributes to its rapid development.
Leaves of violets, pre-rooted in water and then planted in a box, cover with a film is not necessary. The wet surface of the ground in the box creates a microclimate with high humidity. Boxes with planted leaves are placed near the window or under fluorescent lamps.
If the leaf does not form overgrowths for a long time, but it grows, you can try, without removing it from the ground, cut off half of the leaf blade from it and plant it for rooting. The cut surface is sprinkled with crushed charcoal, a piece of sheet is sunk into the earthen mixture by 0.5 cm.
Sometimes, at the planted leaf stalk, the upper part of the leaf begins to rot, then it is necessary to remove the rot, cutting it to healthy tissue, and sprinkle with pounded charcoal (the most effective is to powder the cut with fundosol).
If the sheet has lost turgor, it has become soft, and the rotting is not noticeable, it is necessary to increase the humidity of the air (it is covered with a glass or a plastic bag).
It happens that a leaf that has been planted has formed a growth not at the cut of the stem, but on a part not buried in the ground or even at the point of transition of the stem into the leaf plate. This can happen if the air humidity is too high or, for example, if the sheet was cut with a blunt knife. In this case, you must wait until the growth grows to 2.5-3 cm, and then it is separated from the stem and rooted as a side stepson.
When the seedlings formed around the parent sheet reach a height of 4-5 cm, they can be separated. Premature separation, when the growth is not higher than 1.5-2 cm, can lead to its death. Carefully dug out of the ground (it should be moderately wet, crumbly), the mother leaf with its own roots gently separated, tilted to the side so as not to damage the fragile stems and tender roots of young plants. They are separated and each copy is planted separately.
The most crucial stage is the further development of young plants. It should be borne in mind that the mother leaf is a part of an already formed plant, it is more viable than fragile young plants with weak roots of their own. Therefore, care must be taken that young plants develop in the best conditions. Of great importance is the depth of landing. The petioles of the lower leaves should be slightly above ground level. If the plants are too deep, that is, they are planted so that the earth is at the level of a growing point, they will develop poorly, and there is a great possibility of rotting of the entire outlet. We can not allow the earth to fall on the stalks and on the point of growth.
Great care must be taken when watering. Water, especially at first, should only be warm (3-4 ° C above room temperature). Do not let the water fall into the center of the outlet - it can cause rot. If, however, by chance a few drops of water fall into the growth point, they must be removed with cotton wool or filter paper.
For successful growth requires diffused light, direct sunlight is unacceptable. Even under favorable conditions, young violets in the first 2-3 weeks seem to “freeze” (during this time they develop their own roots). Then the growth of the central leaflets begins and the sockets gradually form.
For young plants it is very important to observe the optimum temperature regime - 23-25 ° C, especially in the first 2-3 weeks. Lowering the temperature to 17-19 ° C in the first days after transplantation can lead to the death of plants. In the future, when young plants get stronger and begin to grow, such a drop in temperature will no longer be dangerous for them.
Rooting stepchildren violets. Some varieties of violets (especially new ones, distinguished by the multicolor colors of the flower) can repeat their original pattern only when propagated by side shoots (in the practice of floriculture called stepchildren). Abroad, these varieties are considered the most valuable and expensive, because they can not be quickly propagated.
To get the side stepsons, remove the growing point with incipient leaves with a pair of tweezers or a needle. After some time, this instance in the leaf axils begin to appear stepchildren - side shoots. When they reach a size of about 3 cm, they should be carefully separated and rooted in the earth mixture - the same as for leaf rooting. For the successful rooting of stepsons, it is necessary for the first 3-4 weeks to ensure increased air humidity and a temperature of 22-24 ° C.
Young plants are grown under fluorescent lamps in the greenhouse. Separated stepchildren usually have a short stalk, and they have to be buried considerably. In order not to rot the growth point, for planting it is best to use sphagnum moss and coarse sand or vermiculite in a 2: 1 ratio with the addition of crushed (granules from 2 to 7 mm) charcoal, about ½ cup per liter jar of the mixture.
Part of the stepsons may form in the lower part of the stem, near the surface of the earth, they usually have their own roots. These plants, separated, immediately planted in small pots with a loose mixture, they quickly take root.
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Tags: violet, cultivation of violets, reproduction of violets, violet care, violet species, photo of violets, violet description, violet flowers, indoor plants, indoor plants
