Since the second half of July, when the days are still hot, but at night the approaching autumn is already felt, a fierce struggle with the blight on tomatoes begins. Folk methods resorted to by gardeners to a great extent help prevent disease, improve plant immunity, make the environment unsuitable for fungus spores, but are unlikely to be able to completely overcome late blight, if it has already visited your site.

Therefore, you need to be aware of:   the fight against phytophthora by folk methods is a good preventive measure.   But if the infection still manifested itself on the plants - urgently remove the affected specimens and take up such an undesirable, but in this case - the only possible salvation - chemical means. It can be Skor, Oxus, Profit Gold, Albit and many, many other means.

Phytophthora on tomatoes: how does it appear?

Recall that the phytophtora fungi spread easily with zoospores. Having got on leaves, fruits or stalks, fruits not only hit them, but with the nearest rains penetrate the soil, occupying the plant completely. Therefore, planting a number of solanaceous crops, apples, strawberries and other plants susceptible to this disease, you facilitate fungi work.

Fight against late blight on tomatoes with folk remedies: recipes

How would you not want to avoid the use of chemistry, once, before flowering, we would still recommend you to treat tomatoes (and greenhouse and open ground) with 1% Bordeaux liquid or copper sulphate (1-2 glasses of water per bucket). l.). And in the future with a clear conscience to use folk remedies against phytophthora   every 7-10 days, always alternating them. An integrated approach - the key to success.

Here we also recall that the spraying of plants should be carried out either in the early morning, or late evening, or in gloomy weather, but not in the sun. It is necessary that the plant has managed to gain a foothold, to absorb the protective composition.

Recipe №1: whey (milk, kefir) and iodine (brilliant green)

For 9 liters of slightly warm water, give one liter of whey, skim milk or kefir, add 20 drops of iodine and process the plants. When the first green fruits appear on the bushes, sometimes iodine can be replaced with green paint. Tomatoes can be eaten the next day after spraying. The same composition will help get rid of the powdery mildew on the cucumbers.

Iodine can be used in a different way, to combat tomato blight in greenhouses. To do this, open the bottle with iodine, attach it to the thread by the neck and hang it by any support in the greenhouse. One bottle is enough to disinfect about 5 "squares" of the greenhouse. But it is not possible to breathe such air for a person for a long time - be sure to open doors and windows while working in a greenhouse. By the way, iodine also accelerates the ripening of tomatoes.

Recipe №2: mustard, garlic, onion

If your city is replete with marigolds and calendula, you certainly do not doubt the phytoncidal properties of some plants. Mustard, onion or garlic are best suited to combat the blight of tomatoes. Croping a tomato bed with such plants, or planting tomato seedlings directly into mustard as a siderat, you create a protective zone around the plant, and most importantly - in the soil. In the future, mustard, garlic or onion is better not to remove completely, and leave in the ground - and the mulch is good, and the roots continue to work against late blight.

Recipe number 3: garlic solution

For 10 liters of warm water, add 1 cup of garlic or garlic shooters, simply chopped or minced, allow to stand for 1 day, filter and add a little potassium permanganate.

Recipe number 4: coniferous decoction

A liter jar of needles is poured over a floor with a liter jar of water and boiled for 5 minutes. After cooling the broth is filtered, add five parts of water and 3 tablespoons of soap for sticking.

Recipe number 5: soda

For 3 liters of water add 5 grams of soda, 2st. l vegetable oil and some liquid soap to stick.

Recipe number 6: fumigation (for greenhouses)

A piece of leather or wool is placed in a container with hot coals, the doors and windows of the greenhouse are closed.

Recipe number 7: ash spray

Bucket half filled with ash and topped up with water to the top. Insist a few days, filter, and before use diluted with water 1: 3. For better adhesion, you can add liquid soap.

Recipe number 8: copper perforation

The detrimental effect of copper ions on the fungus can be used not only by treating copper-containing preparations, but also by ordinary piercing with copper wire. To do this, cut the wire into pieces of 2-3 cm, sand the sandpaper and pierce the stem a few inches from the ground. Too thin stems of tomatoes should not be pierced - wait until the plant is stronger.

Traditional methods of combating tomato blight: some more tips:

Herbal infusions, mullein or yeast infusion - is, first of all, feeding. But indirectly, they help the tomato in the fight against late blight, so foliar spraying should be carried out along with the root.

No matter how hard you try, the increased air humidity in the greenhouse, condensation on the leaves will nullify all your efforts. Therefore, before how to deal with blight folk methods , minimize the stagnation of moisture in the greenhouse: air regularly, mulch generously, and do not part with irrigation.

Remove diseased and infected plants from the beds, destroying them outside the site. Do not forget to observe crop rotation.

You can find another dubious folk method of dealing with late blight with salt, but, as practice shows, its use is ending very badly. Not only for phytophtoras, but also for the tomato itself, as well as the ground beneath it. Therefore, before you apply any tool, especially folk, use your head, good literature, and of course - your own, hardly gained experience. And folk remedies to protect tomatoes from phytophtora are good only when they are used in the complex, from the very beginning of the growing season, the plants and do not harm the soil, the plant itself and your health.

Good day, dear friend! In our family, tomatoes are very fond, so they are grown always and everywhere. Mom leaves a large plot of land in the garden and plants different varieties to enjoy a variety of flavors. His wife loves cherry tomatoes and plants them even in pots that stand on the windowsills.

  This summer, my mother had a great harvest. She was caring for them all season, fertilizing them, but as always, trouble crept unnoticed. Some bushes struck phytophthora. It’s good that at one time she had to deal with this problem and what she needed to do, she knew.

Therefore, without losing time in vain, Mommy processed all the plants and after all we enjoyed a healthy harvest. In this article you will learn: phytophthora on tomatoes, how to fight with folk remedies, the main causes of the disease, what to use for prevention.

Phytophthora on tomatoes: how to fight folk remedies - proven methods

Late blight on tomatoes at the very beginning of the disease can be destroyed and not by such radical methods as the treatment of the garden with fungicides. Folk remedies for processing tomatoes from phytophtoras may not be as effective, but they are harmless to the human body. How to save tomatoes from phytophthora folk remedies?

Phytophthora on tomatoes: how to fight folk remedies

Perhaps the most effective way to defeat this disease is garlic, so let's begin the story of how to deal with blight on tomatoes with folk remedies, namely with it. There are several recipes for cooking, and each deserves attention.

Their action is aimed at one and the same result, but perhaps some recipe will like it more or it is easier to prepare it than any other.

  • I take into consideration 5 garlic mixtures for spraying tomatoes
  1. 0.5 kg of minced garlic + 3 liters of water.
    2. It is necessary to insist the solution for 5 days, putting it in a dark place. Immediately before spraying, take 0.05 L and dilute with 10 L of water. Then add the same amount of laundry soap and process.
  2. When the disease is just beginning to develop, an infusion prepared by mixing 0.1 kg of minced garlic and 2000 ml of water will help.

    3. He infused just half an hour, after which you can apply the solution for spraying.

  3. For the next recipe, you need 150 g of minced garlic, add to 10 liters of water, stir, strain and spray the bushes.
  4. A combination of garlic, pepper and mustard will also help.

    5. It is necessary to chop 0.2 kg of vegetable, add to it a tablespoon of the above two components in the form of powder, add water and leave for a day. Strain, add 10 liters of water. Processing takes place every week and a half.

  5. You can also mix one and a half cups of minced garlic and 2 g of potassium permanganate, dilute with ten liters of water and spray every 14 days.
  • Potassium permanganate - another folk remedy to combat blight on tomatoes

What can be folk remedies to combat phytophtora on tomatoes and without manganese? It is also quite popular among experienced gardeners. It is recommended to treat tomato seeds before planting with a 1% solution of this substance.

When young sprouts are planted in open or protected ground, it is recommended to shed the beds with a weak solution of potassium permanganate approximately every 7 days.

And many experts advise putting green tomatoes from the weather for half an hour into a hot solution of potassium permanganate, then wipe and spread for ripening.

  • Straw infusion

A kilogram of rotten hay or straw pour 10 liters of water, add a handful of urea and let it stand for 3-4 days. Strain the infusion and process them tomatoes.

  • Yeast

Dissolve 80 g of yeast in a bucket of water and pour tomatoes with phytophthora at the first symptoms with this solution.

  • Copper wire

Spraying tomatoes from phytophtoras can be replaced by “copper perforation”. How to protect tomatoes from phytophthora using copper wire? Wire need to be ignited on the fire or sandpaper, cut into pieces 3-4 cm long, insert such a piece into the stem of an adult tomato bush at a height of 10 cm from the soil and bend the ends of the wire down.

Do not wrap the wire around the stem!

Some gardeners prefer to wrap pieces of copper wire around the roots of the seedlings before planting them on the bed. The fact is that microdoses of copper, enhancing oxidative processes, stabilizing the production of chlorophyll and stimulating oxygen exchange, strengthen the plant's immunity and make it resistant not only to phytophthora, but also to other infections.

  • Iodine from phytophthora on tomatoes

Possessing antimicrobial properties, iodine can serve as a good remedy for the treatment of phytophthora on tomatoes. There are many recipes using iodine - choose any of the following:

  1. To 9 liters of water, add 1 liter of milk, preferably low-fat and 20 drops of iodine;
  2. To 8 liters of water, add two liters of whey, half a cup of sugar and 15 drops of iodine tincture;
  3. 10 liters of water is mixed with one liter of whey, 40 drops of iodine alcohol tincture and 1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide are added.
The resulting solutions carefully process all the leaves and stems of tomatoes, especially from the bottom.

You can also use solutions of fermented kefir and whey (1 liter per 10 liters of water) for prophylactic spraying against phytophthora both in pure form and with the addition of a small amount of sugar.

With such solutions water the bushes of tomatoes regularly every week, starting from the moment of bud formation. Attention! Not bad in the fight against late blight on tomatoes is also such a trace element as boron.

To use it, you need to dilute 10 g of boric acid in 10 liters of hot water, cool to room temperature and spray the tomatoes. For better effect, it is advisable to add 30 drops of iodine to the solution before treatment.

Finally, the recipe of the following preparation is considered to be an agent that effectively fought against the already visible manifestations of phytophtoras on tomatoes:

  1. Eight liters of water is heated to a temperature of + 100 ° C and is combined with two liters of sifted wood ash.
  2. When the temperature of the solution drops to + 20 ° C, 10 g of boric acid and 10 ml of iodine are added to it.
  3. The mixture is infused for half a day.
  4. Then diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and carefully sprayed all parts of tomato plants.
  5. Before treatment, remove all affected parts of plants.
  • Ash solution against phytophtoras on tomatoes
This treatment is carried out in three stages: as soon as the seedlings begin and grow, before the flowering of tomatoes and immediately before the appearance of the first ovaries.

In a 10 liter of water, add half a bucket of wood ash, insist for three days, stirring from time to time. When the composition is settled, the liquid must be drained, bring its volume to 30 liters and add 30-35 g of liquid soap to the composition.

  • Whey from phytophthora on tomatoes

Processing tomatoes from phytophthora with serum from yogurt also gives good results. Dilute the whey in the ratio of one to one with water and from the first days of July, spray tomatoes every day.

Common popular methods of struggle:

  1. Copper wire from phytophthora on tomatoes is used only as a prophylactic agent.

    2. It is believed that a sufficient copper content in the plant prevents the reproduction of malicious spores. To do this, take a piece of wire and cut it into pieces of a length of 3-5 cm. All parts are carefully cleaned with emery paper.

    After that, the lower part of the stem of each tomato is pierced with wire, its ends are bent down, but not twisted around the stem. It is believed that the plant is so saturated with copper, thereby excluding the development of the disease.

  2. Yeast is a common treatment. You will need to mix 100 g of yeast (live) with 10 liters of water. Tomatoes are sprayed with the prepared mixture.
  3. You can prepare a solution of garlic and manganese.

    4. The leaves, stalks and the garlic itself are crushed and poured, 1 cup of boiled water is required per 100 g of gruel. A day later, the mixture is filtered and diluted in 10 liters of water, adding a little manganese.

    The resulting composition is treated with each plant, the procedure is carried out 4 times per season.
  4. The following composition includes whey or kefir and water in equal parts. The mixture can be treated bushes daily, but should begin only in the month of July.

If, however, it was not possible to prevent the development of the disease, the characteristic brown spots became noticeable on the leaves, such popular recipes can help:

  1. Iodine from phytophthora on tomatoes is a proven product by many. We must take 10 ml of a five-percent solution of iodine and dissolve it in 10 liters of water. The composition is required to spray all the tomatoes. The procedure must be repeated after 3 days.
  2. It is necessary to mix 200 ml of 10% calcium solution with 2 liters of water, then carefully spray the affected areas of the plant.
  3. Prepare a solution of 1 kg of salt and 10 liters of water. Before treatment, you will need to remove all the diseased parts of the plant, and then spray tomato bushes.

    4. The solution forms a thin film on the surface of the leaves, stem and fruit, which prevents further development of the disease.

  4. Drugstore Trichopol can also help in the fight against late blight. It is required to dissolve 1 tablet in 1 l of water and spray the bushes. The procedure is repeated every 14 days.
  5. Summer residents also use furatsilin, from phytophtoras on tomatoes, it can also help. 10 tablets of the drug is dissolved in 10 liters of water. The solution is used for spraying 3 times per season. The first - before the start of flowering, the second - with the appearance of ovaries, the third - at the time of ripening of the first fruits.
  • Tomato processing is carried out and fungicidal preparations
You can buy Fitosporin, Fundazim, Kvadris, Fundazol, Ridomil, Previkur. Spraying with such means should be carried out in accordance with the attached instructions.
  • Copper sulfate

It is enough to add about 2 tablespoons of copper sulfate and a couple of drops of iodine to one bucket of water. Tomato bushes are processed once. In general, iodine can be applied to almost all mixtures for treating plants, since in small doses it can have a disinfecting effect without harming organic matter.

Do not make a large dose of iodine, as an increased concentration can burn tissue.

When these funds do not help fight against fungal formations on tomatoes, you will need more concentrated chemicals that can be purchased in specialized stores. Beforehand, it is better to consult sellers regarding what dosage will be required for a particular variety, as well as on the basis of current signs of late blight.

If we treat tomato seedlings in a timely manner with these folk remedies, then treatment for late blight should be successful. It is important to remember that rain is able to completely flush substances, so a second procedure will be required.

When methods of prevention in the current season did not have an effect, then in the next it is desirable to apply another method.

When applying the same means to combat the disease from year to year, its effectiveness is significantly reduced. In this regard, it is recommended to periodically change drugs and drugs.

After you have managed to treat seedlings from phytophtora, you need to treat the area. The earth is watered with “Trichodermin” and “Fitosporin”, which should supervise the remnants of mushroom spores in the soil. This precaution will prevent a possible illness in the next season.

If your site caught a massive disease of vegetable crops, then all the bushes must be burned, and the ground sprayed with a fungicide.

This method of struggle is very effective, if done correctly, without leaving the rough corners of the garden. Inspect the fruit carefully when you harvest a ripe crop. If tomatoes show typical signs of late blight, they should be thrown away so that the entire crop does not deteriorate during storage.

Before rolling the tomatoes, be sure to thoroughly rinse them, and once again carefully inspect.

  • Other drugs

There are several other drugs that are widely used by the people to combat blight on tomatoes.

  1. In a 10-liter bucket of water, dissolve 10 tablets of Trykhopol and add 15 ml of green stuff. The resulting solution can handle tomato bushes both during flowering and when the first symptoms of phytophthora appear.
  2. In 10 liters of water mix one teaspoon of copper sulfate, boric acid, magnesia. Add potassium permanganate on the tip of the knife and some laundry soap (can be replaced with 3 tablespoons of liquid soap).

Source: "floristics.info; krokusy.ru; fermilon.ru; agrarian-blog.ru; gryadki.com"

Chemicals for treatment and protection

To combat late blight, copper sulfate has proven itself well. 3% of the solution is treated with the earth a few days before transplanting. When planting, prepare a 1% solution and pour 1 liter into each well. Trichopol or metronidazole tablets have antifungal effects.

20 tablets diluted in a small amount of water and poured into a bucket of water. Handle planting every two weeks. Chemical fungicides are strong in the fight against late blight, but after processing, the fruit cannot be eaten for 25 days:

  1. "Abiga - Peak"
  2. "Profit - Gold"
    3. Bred at the rate of 1 gram per 1 liter of water. Apply 4 times, every 14 days. Hazard Class - 3. Protects the plant for 7 - 12 days.
  3. "Hom" - 40 grams are stirred in a bucket of water. Belongs to the 3rd class of danger.

For prophylaxis, or in the initial stage of the disease, it is recommended to use biological agents: “Alirin - B”, “Gamar”, “Fitosporin”. They belong to the 4th class of danger, are highly effective, do not cause habituation in the pathogens of the fungus.

In addition to protective measures, these biopreparations are beneficial: they remove the toxicity of the soil after treatment with chemicals, restore the microflora, strengthen the immune system of plants and stimulate further growth and development of shrubs.

Common chemicals include:

  • Antibiotic Trihopol
    • 10 tablets of this agent are dissolved in 10 liters of water and sprayed with bushes. The first time they are processed, when the tomatoes are at the stage of formation of ovaries, and then the procedure repeats 2 times a month.

    This is an antimicrobial agent. Therefore, gardeners love to prepare a milky-iodine solution, which will easily help you get rid of phytophthora. To prepare it, take 10 liters of water, a liter of milk and 20 drops of iodine.

  • Zelenka

    • 40 drops of this product are dissolved in water and sprayed with tomatoes.

  • Manganese solution

    • This tool is an excellent seed antiseptic. They are placed in a gauze bag and immersed in this solution for 40 minutes. After that, washed with water and dried thoroughly.

Source: "profermu.com"

Causes of blight on tomatoes

Phytophthora is a very common and pernicious fungal disease that destroys not only tomatoes, but also other solanaceous crops (eggplants, potatoes). Most often, the disease manifests itself in cool and wet weather, with heavy precipitation. But where does this sore come from?

Late blight is a fungal disease and it is spread by spores; therefore, the conidia of this fungus are capable of remaining in the soil, seeds, on the walls of the greenhouse or greenhouse, as well as the garden inventory.

And as soon as there are favorable conditions for its active reproduction (low air temperature and humidity), the disease will begin to develop and progress. In addition to weather conditions, there may be other causes of the disease of tomatoes:

Speaking about how phytophthora is transmitted, then in this case it is worth noting that the ways of its spread are mass - it can be infection through seeds, soil, tubers of neighboring plants, by transferring infection from site to site with equipment and much more.

With all this, the bacteria is stored for a long time in the soil cover, and especially if it lacks copper salts.

Speaking about how the transfer occurs, then in nature there is a whole scheme of its transfer and its main stages:

  • So on the most affected plant new spores are formed that infect the root, the seeds, i.e., the whole healthy plant and its fruits, green or already ripe.
  • Next comes their germination, when more of them develop new spores.
  • The next stage of infection is their direct entry into the kidney.
  • Already through the soil and contaminated soil is directly infecting new, healthy plants that grow close.

The main thing is to find out how the spores of the fungus got to your site, the tomato bush and already on this basis, and take measures to eliminate pathogenic microflora.

Vegetable testing

Not always such signs at the first stage of the development of the disease indicate exactly the infection with late blight. For example, blackening of fruits may be caused by rot, increased humidity or dry soil, and this is also a consequence of an excessive amount of fertilizer applied.

The infected plant must be carefully examined. When dry apical rot defeat spreads to the entire fruit, it becomes black. But the pulp of the tomato must be firm and absolutely without juice. This phenomenon is observed with an excessive amount of fertilizer, after which salinization of the soil occurs.

If there are black tomatoes on the plant, and the roots have climbed to the surface of dry soil, this is not late blight. Just the plant lacks moisture, so it gets it out of thin air.

Black can also be present on the fruits of tomatoes, which have a shortage of boron and magnesium. Therefore, a periodic fertilizing of plants with fertilizer will be the way out of such a situation.

Productive plan of struggle

To combat blight on tomatoes is necessary from the first days of life of the seeds. Carry out these procedures constantly and with a certain frequency. After all, a sick plant is almost impossible to cure, and the process of infection occurs very quickly. In the early stages, the fight against late blight on tomatoes comes down to routine prevention.

Then you can use different means for spraying plants, greenhouses. A novice gardener from such a number of precautionary actions will clutch at the head, but how to deal with blight by other methods?

Only carefully planned actions in combination with biologically active drugs or folk remedies will help get rid of the dangerous fungus.

The question of how to protect the tomatoes from infection, does not close. Here you need to think through every step. For example:

  1. Selection of seeds and their treatment;
  2. Planting and dressing seedlings;
  3. Hardening of plants before planting;
  4. The correct depth of the hole and the width of the rows;
  5. The composition of the soil and its processing;
  6. Departure in the first 2 weeks after disembarkation;
  7. Stock preparation and greenhouses;
  8. Temperature and humidity in the greenhouse;
  9. The number and frequency of fertilizers against phytophthora, as well as their nature;
  10. Plants that are planted nearby;
  11. Precursors who were planted 1-2 years before;
  12. Climate.

Source: "ogorodko.ru; vogorode.com; teplichniku.ru"

Greenhouse processing

Before planting hardened plants in a greenhouse, it is necessary to prepare the soil and build a greenhouse. The structure must be comfortable and airtight so that frost or cold air cannot penetrate through the slots. But at the same time, the design should have several windows for ventilation.

Spraying tomatoes from phytophthora includes the preventive treatment of the greenhouse. If the construction is not used for the first year, it must be cleaned of dust, dirt and cobwebs before the start of the season. This should be done not only from the inside, but also from the outside.

For more rigorous gardeners from phytophthora on tomatoes, it may be advisable to spray the entire greenhouse design with a solution of Fitosporin or Baikal EM.

The beds can be sprinkled with a mixture of ash and tobacco dust. To obtain such funds, it is necessary to take 2 cups of tobacco dust to a bucket of ash. A gardener must use a gauze bandage. Such simple, and sometimes extreme ways will be able to protect the crop from the disease of tomatoes. Therefore, before processing tomatoes from phytophthora, pay attention to the greenhouse itself.

Plant Care

Before you dive into the problem of processing plants, you must constantly inspect the bushes to the level of humidity. If the lower leaves on the edges are wet - this is the first sign of a possible infection. The main signal, followed by the processing of tomatoes from phytophthora. A gardener should not overfill the plants.

You can never plant seedlings in a greenhouse in which last year's crop suffered late blight disease. Before processing tomatoes from phytophthora, it is necessary to completely remove the top layer (5 cm) of soil. It is better to use seeds that are already 2-3 years old, because in a few years they cease to be a source of viral or fungal diseases.

It is best to choose a place under the greenhouse, where the solanaceous crops did not grow: pepper, potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants. All last year's plants should be collected and burned.

In order not to think later than to escape from the phytophtoras on tomatoes, the soil for the winter must be well digged. This will destroy the spores of the fungus. It is possible to plant seedlings only after hardening: a frail plant is a weak link that can become a target for a fungus.

Moreover, it is impossible to plant seedlings very thick. Always follow the planting patterns shown on the seed packets. Before lowering the plant into the hole, it removes the lower and old leaves up to 2-3 brushes. This will give more strength to the tomato, because it will not need to provide an extra piece of moisture and useful substances.

Only the root is watered, not the leaves or the stem, it can cause tomato diseases. Plant care is the timely watering and ventilation of the greenhouse. So, adult tomatoes are watered rarely, but plentifully.

We must not forget about the mulching of the soil, but carry out this procedure only with adult and mature plants. Processing tomatoes from phytophthora is the correct technology of fertilizing fertilizers (phosphorus, potassium, copper sulphate). This is done in overcast non-rainy weather.

Spraying plants

To defeat late blight of tomatoes, treatment must be carried out constantly, changing it from year to year. To spray tomatoes from phytophthora is necessary at the stage of planting in the soil. Use for this purchase solutions or prepared according to popular recipes.

  • The first enemy of fungal spores is garlic.

    • Garlic heads and shoots are used. Take crushed heads and shoots (1.5 tbsp.) To a bucket (10 l) of water. The mixture is infused for 24 hours, filtered. Then add 2 g of potassium permanganate.

    From the phytophtoras on tomatoes, the plant is sprayed with garlic solution when it has an ovary, and the next time it is done in 10 days. To carry out such a procedure is better 1 time in 2 weeks.

  • The question of how to spray tomatoes, help to close the usual salt. Need a glass of salt in 10 liters of water.

    • This solution creates a protective film on the leaves, which blocks the path of the spores to the mouths of the plant. You need to spray healthy bushes, because this is prevention, not a cure for the disease.

  • Effectively handle tomatoes from phytophthora ordinary ash.

    • In 10 liters of water, half a bucket of ash is bred. This solution is insisted for 3 days, not forgetting to stir from time to time. Then the mixture is diluted with another 20 liters of water and 35 g of soap is added.

    Before processing tomatoes from phytophthora, you need to wait until the plant takes root. Then spend spraying just before flowering and after the formation of the ovary.
  • The following recipe is somewhat extreme. You need 1 kg of rotted hay to pour 10 liters of water, add 100 g of urea. The solution should be infused for 4 days. After that, the fluid must be filtered.

Purchased solutions

It is easier to buy ready-made products and dilute them in accordance with the instructions. For example, fungicides are recognized as the most effective. They are used for 2-3 weeks before planting seedlings in a greenhouse and 2 weeks after that.
  Many gardeners use old proven methods of dealing with this problem.

When the root system dries, a solution of Furacilin is prepared, which is sprayed on the seedlings. It is necessary to dilute 2 tablets in 0.5 l of water. Furacilin effectively copes with the fungus, as well as Trichopol. Metronidazole is a synthetic antibacterial agent that, according to reviews of gardeners, is actively coping with plant disease.

His second name is Trichopol. With a solution of means sprayed the plant every 2 weeks. For preparation, you need Trichopolum (1 tablet) diluted in 1 liter of water.

This antifungal agent has a very bitter taste, but is suitable for both people and plants. For an increased dose, use Trichopolum (20 tablets) per 10 liters of water. All these drugs are cheap and affordable.

How to cultivate the land after the disease

In the spring, before planting, be sure to cultivate the land from phytophthora. To do this, take 3% of copper sulfate and pour it on the ground. Then you should thoroughly loosen the soil. To do this, use a special device that will help to mix the top cover with a thickness of 25 cm.

In this one of the best helpers will be Tornado. It has an unusual shape and is very effective and easy to use.

And the final stage is irrigation with phytosporin. For this, 1 tbsp. means dissolved in 10 l of water. This dose is designed for 1 sq.m. Be sure to remember that substances that contain copper can get into the food, because they should be used only in early spring.

Varieties resistant to infection

The resistant varieties before the blight include: The gift of a brother, De Barao, Vilina, Liang, Roton.
  As you can see, dealing with blight is easy. You just have to choose the means you like and get to work. However, you should also follow the dosage, because exceeding the norm harm the tomatoes themselves.

Having found signs of phytophtoras on their site, every gardener begins to sound the alarm. In the article we will tell about everything related to the disease and how to fight the blight on tomatoes in the greenhouse and in the open field.

What is phytophthora: causes and signs of the disease

If you have not encountered the blight and do not know what it is, then, most likely, you have not tried to grow tomatoes in your garden. Phytophthora is the most dangerous disease of this plant, which is caused by the fungus phytophtorosis, which is translated from English as “plant eater”. With its rapid development, it can destroy the crop of tomatoes in just a few days.

Causes of phytophthora

   At first, this infection infects potatoes, and after it switches to tomatoes. Therefore, one of the reasons for their infection is the proximity to the potato.   Infection occurs because of high humidity, low or sudden changes in temperature, lack of sunlight, thickened planting of tomato bushes and an excess of nitrogen.

One can notice the appearance of phytophtoras on plants in August and July. At this time, the day is still hot, the night is already cold, and in the morning there is a lot of dew, evaporation of which occurs slowly, especially from densely planted bushes. This moment is the best for the development of phytophthora.

Signs of phytophtora on tomatoes

At the first signs of phytophthora on tomatoes, black spots are first formed on the leaves, then the fruits suffer, and after them the stem is also affected. Black spots on the leaves in the rain are covered with a light oily bloom - this is a fungus. The inflorescences of tomatoes very quickly turn yellow, then turn black and fall off.   Fruits become covered with black-brown traces, which soften over time.The stem is covered with uneven black spots. The disease rather quickly inhibits the bush, which subsequently leads to the death of the plant.

Phytophthora: how to properly handle tomatoes in open ground

Tomatoes which are grown up in an open ground are most subject to this disease. And therefore, in order not to face this problem, it is necessary to carry out mandatory prevention.

Disease prevention

Let's see how to protect tomatoes from phytophthora. In order not to run into her in your garden,   You must adhere to the following rules:

  1. The infection infects young bushes because of the untreated soil, so be sure to remove the weeds from the garden beds and do not plant tomatoes after potatoes and other crops that are also susceptible to phytophthora.
  2. Do not place the bushes very close to each other, as in the wet year this will provoke the development of phytophtoras.
  3. Watering of tomatoes should be only under the root, as the water on the leaves can cause disease.
  4. Place for growing tomatoes should choose a well-lit.
  5. Do not overdo it with the amount of nitrogen fertilizer applied.

Tomato Treatment

If you prevent the disease did not work, you need to know how to deal with blight on tomatoes. It is completely impossible to get rid of it, since the disease spreads from one bush to another and appears immediately on several plants.
   The first thing to do in this situation is to isolate the affected bushes from healthy ones. It would be right to uproot them and burn them immediately to prevent them from spreading. If the phytophtora struck a large number of bushes, then chemical active substances will be needed.

When late blight of tomatoes treatment is carried out with preparations in powder form, which are diluted with water and sprayed on plants. The most effective of them are boric acid, "Gamar", "Fitosporin".

How to protect tomatoes from phytophthora in the greenhouse

Stagnant air and moisture evaporation are extreme conditions for growing tomatoes in the greenhouse. In this room, even though plants are less likely to be affected by diseases (since there is no direct source of infection), but if this happens, their spread is more intense. In order to prevent the destruction of tomatoes by phytophthora, greenhouses should be regularly aired and watered the bushes rarely, but many.

Did you know? To prevent the tomatoes from getting sick, preventive measures should be taken even before sowing, treating the seeds with a warm solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes.

Spraying for prophylaxis

   A very important question is how to spray tomatoes from phytophtoras, since an abundance of chemicals can make the fruit poisonous and unsuitable for consumption. In addition, during the treatments, you can ruin the bushes themselves, causing them to rot. In order not to harm the plant, you need to know how to splash tomatoes from diseases.

In preventive measures, it is necessary to water the tomatoes with a solution of copper sulphate within a week after planting. Then after another five days, it is necessary to treat the bushes with a decoction of horsetail, after which the leaves are sprayed with potassium iodide diluted with water. And after another five days, the plants are treated with Epin.

For prophylactic treatment, a solution from acidic whey of 2 l, a glass of ash and one spoon of honey per bucket of water will be suitable. This solution is sprayed with bushes every week. The most favorable time for all procedures is the first half of the day.

In order to avoid the reasons for the development of phytophthora in greenhouses, it is necessary to remove dust and cobwebs, monitor the cleanliness inside the room.

Phytophtora treatment on tomatoes


   If there was a phytophthora on tomatoes, then for many gardeners the question becomes how to deal with this scourge. Treat phytophthora in two ways:

  • using chemical active substances;
  • using folk remedies.

Important! When treating the remedies for phytophtoras on tomatoes, they are used together with a plant food that strengthens their immune system.

When phytophthora on tomatoes is treated with chemicals such as "Alirin-B", "Gamar", "Baikal EM-1." Another effective remedy is Bordeaux liquid.

How to deal with blight folk methods

We list the most common folk remedies from phytophtora on tomatoes:

  1. Tincture of garlic with potassium permanganate. You will need 100 g of garlic minced in a meat grinder, which is poured with a glass of water and left for 24 hours. After a day, filter and dilute with 10 liters of water and 1 g of potassium permanganate. Spray the bushes need every other week.
  2. Milk serum. In a 1: 1 ratio, whey is diluted with water and tomatoes are treated from July daily.
  3. Ash. Seven days after disembarking and setting fruit, ash is sprayed between rows before watering.
  4. Tincture of rotten straw or hay. You need 1 kg of hay to pour 10 liters of water, add a handful of urea and leave for 3-4 days. After a while, strain and process the bushes in 1.5-2 weeks.
  5. Iodine with milk. They take 10 liters of water, 1 liter of nonfat milk, 15 drops of iodine, mix everything and process the bushes every two weeks.
  6. Salt. For one glass of salt, take a bucket of water and process large green fruits once a month.
  7. Copper sulphate solution. On a ten-liter bucket of water add 2 tbsp. l copper sulfate and the resulting solution watered the plant.
  8. Yeast. For 10 liters of water will need 100 g of yeast. Treat the plant when phytophthora appear.
  9. Wrapping the roots of seedlings with copper wire before planting or piercing the stems of tomatoes. It is necessary to heat the copper wire and cut into 4 cm pieces and then pierce the stem at a distance of 10 cm from the ground, insert the wire and bend its ends down.
The fight against late blight on tomatoes with folk remedies is as effective as the struggle with chemical agents.

Did you know? Copper sulfate can help get rid of phytophthora, but it is very dangerous for leaves. Any drops of the solution may burn the plant, after which it may die.

Varieties of tomatoes resistant to Phytophthora

Unfortunately, there are no varieties of tomatoes that will be completely resistant to phytophthora. Despite their great diversity, there are less and more resistant to the disease tomatoes.

For growing in greenhouse conditions are more suitable varieties of the determinant species. They are low, early and bring a good harvest.

  Determinant Tomato Varieties:

  Indeterminate varieties are characterized by tall and large fruits. They can be grown both in greenhouses and in open ground. A prerequisite for their normal development is holding a pasynkovaniya.

Important! When cultivating indeterminant varieties in their garden, they should be tied to high stands, since the main stem can break due to the heavy weight of the tomatoes.

  More resistant varieties of the indeterminant species are:

Prevention of phytophthora

Protecting tomatoes from phytophthora will help proper care of them. Care is carried out depending on the type of development, which, in turn, is divided into generative and vegetative.

When the vegetative method of growing plants grow quickly, but the fruits are formed slowly. And because of late fruit formation, especially in rainy summer, the phytophthora will not take long to come. And to prevent this, you need to carry out pasynkovanie. This will ensure improved air circulation and accelerate the growth of the fruit.

When the generative method is active fruiting. A large number of tomatoes on a bush leads to a stressful state of the plant, which reduces its resistance.
   In order to prevent the occurrence of phytophthora, it is necessary to regulate the number of tomatoes on a bush. At an unfavorable time, it is better to reduce the number of fruits and remove peripheral buds. So you will ensure rapid ripening and increase plant resistance to diseases. In order to prevent the occurrence of phytophthora in rainy weather, even an immature crop can be harvested, this will help the plant to fight the disease.

How to save and consume affected tomatoes

  Tomatoes that have already caught phytophthora can be preserved by heat treatment.To do this, you need to pour 60 ° C water into the basin and lower the affected fruit into it. Be careful: tomatoes should warm up and not cook. When the water cools, add a new one until the tomatoes are fully heated. After the water treatment, the tomatoes are dried and placed in a dark place or on the windowsill for ripening. During warming up, spores of phytophthora die, and then tomatoes can be eaten. They can also be canned. At defeat of fruits to full blackening thermal influence will not help, and they should be utilized.

100% disposal of phytophtora can not guarantee any of the ways. However, to prevent the occurrence of the disease and to fight against late blight of tomatoes is in your power. To do this, you must comply with all the above recommendations, to carry out preventive measures, and then you will get a large crop of healthy tomatoes.

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Every summer, all gardeners begin to grow their favorite fruits and vegetables in their plots, and in addition to their daily and customary cares, they have additional trouble to protect their crops from various types of diseases. Moreover, even the hottest summer quite often gives way to temperature changes and, as a result, it is noted by abundant torrential rains, which have an extremely negative impact on the health of some plants.

One of the most annoying and common in suburban areas of the disease, which attacks mainly tomatoes, is (late blight). And today we will tell you in detail what to treat from phytophtoras in the open field or what folk remedies are better to use.

What is this disease?

Phytophthora is a serious disease of garden plants, the causative agent of which is the fungus Phytophthora infestans. Most often, it suffers from this fungus, but there have been cases of infection and such cultures, as well as even. It is easy to trace the alarming symptoms on your vegetables: it is enough to reveal on the tomato tops gradually expanding spots of an ugly dirty-brown shade, which increase significantly faster during wet weather.
  Such “blots” begin to appear on tomato leaves as early as 3 days after infection, and then, depending on weather conditions, contribute to the complete death of the shoots. Further, on the stems it will be possible to notice a gradually occurring grayish bloom, and on the fruits - wet and indented black spots, which will also gradually spread throughout the rest of the plant surface.

No one is insured against late blight of the garden plot, but some causes and conditions still contribute to the occurrence of this disease:

  • cold weather and frequent rains;
  • failure to comply with the required temperature regime (in greenhouses) for;
  • covering tomatoes with a film of cold during temperature fluctuations (day and night) promotes the formation of condensate, which, in turn, provokes the development of phytophthora.

Did you know? In the world there is not a single continent free from the phytophthora kind– 70   its species can calmly and calmly destroy all known cultural plants.

Folk remedies

To date, the domestic market has a rich assortment of various chemical agents that can cope with annoying blight for the first time and for a long time delay the inevitable death of the plant, since it is no longer possible to completely defeat the disease that has appeared.

But as practice has shown, late blight can be avoided altogether - to do this, you just need to take effective preventive measures in time, which consist of the old, proven over the years folk methods.
  And in order to find out exactly which means will help in the fight against late blight on tomatoes in open areas or, we turn to the following points.

Garlic and Manganese

A well-known universal solution of potassium permanganate has long been an excellent preventive tool in the fight against fungal attack. The technology of its preparation is very simple, and effective disinfectant properties are striking in their effectiveness.   To prepare the solution, you need to act in stages:

  1. In a meat grinder, 100 grams of garlic are minced, with all of its parts at once: leaves, onions and arrows.
  2. The garlic mixture is poured with a glass of clean water and left for 24 hours at room temperature, in a dry and cool place.
  3. Before using the present concentrate diluted with water (10 liters).
  4. It is necessary to spray tomatoes every 2 weeks in calm and dry weather.
   Fruits and leaves on the bush are treated separately with a solution of manganese prepared according to the following proportions: 3 grams of powder per 10 liters of water.

Important!If there are risks of rotting of fruits from phytophtoras before full ripening, then it is better to pick them, hold them in water (temperature– 35 ° С ) with potassium permanganate for about half an hour, then dry and allow them to ripen in a dry open place, for example,.

If you have chosen straw infusion as a preventive weapon against late blight, it is important to remember that the main ingredient must be rotten (hay or straw). The straw is poured with ten liters of water, a handful of urea is added to the mixture, and then it is infused for three days.
   Then the finished tincture is thoroughly filtered and further sprayed with tomatoes every two weeks.

Milk serum

Whey has long been known to experienced summer residents for its undeniable efficacy in the war against the phytophthora fungus: it forms a thin, almost imperceptible film on tomato leaves that prevents harmful microorganisms from seeping into vegetable tissues and putting their roots there.

Fungal infections of various types are always trying to “bypass” the plants treated with serum, since the milk bacteria and microflora contained in it are detrimental to them. But the irrigation procedure should be repeated, not forgetting, since the serum itself is short-lived and very quickly loses its antimicrobial effect. Some sources say that it is the spray pattern once every 10 days that is the most effective, but based on the experience of many agronomists and gardeners, we concluded that the manipulation should be carried out as often as possible, even every day. But, in order to apply the serum for its intended purpose, it must first be converted into a working solution — for this it is diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio. In this way, it is possible to safely process tomatoes from ill-fated phytophtoras both in the greenhouse and in the open area.

Milk and iodine

No wonder many people professional growerstomatoes considered the best preventionfrom phytophthora processing   plants with a solution of milk andiodine, because its disinfectant properties not only kill disease-causing bacteria, but also contribute to the rapid and high-quality process of ripening tomato fruit.
  For the preparation of such a solution will require only half a cup of skim milk, clean water and a couple of drops of iodine (no more adding, it can burn the leaves). Milk and iodine are added to 1 liter of water, then the exposed mixture should be carefully sprayed on all unprotected areas.

If you find symptoms of late blight on ripening tomatoes, then the best option would be to give the tomato fruit that is not yet sick to ripen and be harvested faster.

For this purpose, without using any chemicals, normal salt solution is well suited: it allows the stems to get rid of the affected leaves as soon as possible, thereby giving the bush extra time and energy to accelerate the ripening of the fruit, and also completely covers the entire plant with a salt film, which significantly slows the development of the fungal disease. For its preparation is used only 100 g of salt per 1 liter of water.
  It is also important to remember that only diseased areas with plants can be irrigated with saline, because it can cause harm to other garden crops.

Kefir

  For quite a long time obsessive fungi will help keep the usual kefir.   For thorough processing, you first need to prepare a working solution, which consists of 1 l of kefir and 5 liters of water. Tomatoes with this tool should be started to spray only 14 days after planting in a permanent area, and then manipulation is carried out every week.

Ash solution

For destruction of lateral spores, which are just beginning to sprout on tomato soil, a solution with ash content is very often used, which has strong disinfecting properties and destroys, in addition to fungi, other infections affecting plants. This tincture is prepared quickly and easily: 250 ml of ash is poured with a liter of water, boiled on the fire for 15 minutes. The resulting mixture is carefully filtered, and then another 10 liters of water is added to it.

Now you should take care of the spraying solution for the bushes to fix the result of disinfection: 6 liters of ash is thoroughly mixed with ten liters of water, and then the mixture stands in a dark place for at least three days.
Spraying tomato seedlings should be carried out 3 times, the first - when it takes root, the second - before flowering, and the third - when the first ovaries appear.

Pipe Spraying

Slicing sprays will be very useful for tomato bushes that have not yet suffered from phytophthora. It is paradoxical, but it just so happens that the mushroom is able to act as a serious obstacle to the development of other harmful fungi, especially for the late blight.

Planting should be irrigated at the time of fruit set, every 10 days early in the morning, preferably in calm and windless weather. The recipe for preparing the grout solution is as follows: the dried mushroom (100 g) is crushed in a meat grinder and filled with boiling water, after complete cooling, the mixture is filtered, and the solution immediately becomes suitable for use.

Copper

German scientists have come up with an interesting method of controlling late blight: it consists in wrapping the root system of seedlings with thin copper wire. Our agronomists adapted this method in their own way — they invented to pierce the stem of a bush with such wire. The method looks strange, but is amazingly effective: due to the copper microdose of the plant, chlorophyll is stabilized, and the correct oxidative processes are restored.
   But it is important to remember that such manipulation can be carried out only on strong tomato stems.

  The process of copper introduction is carried out in stages:

  1. A thin copper wire is trimmed with sandpaper or ignited, then cut into small pieces of 3 cm.
  2. Puncture of the stem is done not necessarily at the very soil, but at a distance of about 10 cm.
  3. The wire is gently inserted into the stem, its ends are bent down.
  4. Wrap the stem is strictly impossible.
   The method will definitely work if you do everything correctly and slowly.

Did you know?The first person who discovered that the phytophthora is afraid of copper was one unknown, meticulous journalist (unfortunately, his name has not even been preserved in history). But precisely because of his observation, people saw that the nasty fungus does not manifest itself near copper smelters, and then the Germans patentednowknown to us saving method with wire.

At the initial stage, the most common baker's yeast is perfect for controlling late blight. For effective spraying, just 100 grams of the product is sufficient, which should be dissolved in 10 liters of water. Then the solution must be applied for its intended purpose.

Prevention

Of considerable importance in the fight against late blight on tomatoes, in the greenhouse and on the open ground is another pre-prevention, which is carried out by similar folk remedies. If you try to carry out all these methods, you will be able to forget about late blight at least for a while. For a good result, you must perform the following actions:

  1. Prevention is desirable to begin in the early stages of planting: for this you need to process the vegetable seeds. Usually seeds are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate for 20 or 30 minutes.
  2. Pick up early varieties less sensitive to fungus.
  3. In the process of planting seedlings, prepared for tomatoes, pits should be plentifully treated with copper sulfate (1 tbsp per 10 liters of water).
  4. Ensure a good distance between landings (at least 30 cm).
  5. When the fruits of the first brush appear on the bushes, it is necessary to remove the lower leaves.
  6. To monitor the appearance on the tops of bushes of flowers and brushes - it is desirable to tear them off in time.
Based on the above information, we can draw the following conclusion: if we carry out timely prevention using iodine, garlic, potassium permanganate and other recommended remedies for phytophtora, it will become almost one hundred percent guarantee of protecting the future crop from complete elimination, and your summer tomatoes will fully mature in properly treated greenhouses and on open soils.

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Phytophthora on tomatoes is a dangerous disease, especially when growing in greenhouses. How to deal with blight? What measures can be taken to prevent the development of the disease in a closed greenhouse?

Phytophthora of tomatoes - signs of plant infection

Phytophlorosis disease causes the simplest fungus that is invisible to the human eye due to its microscopic size, Phytophthora infestans. The smallest mushroom has an incredible ability to reproduce rapidly. In a short time, the planting of greenhouse tomatoes may be infected with blight, and hopes for harvest will rapidly decline.

Phytophthora can affect both mature and green fruits.

The disease usually develops on the lower leaves, which are covered with brown spots, spores of the fungus develop on them in the form of white fine fluff. The infection then seizes the main stalks, making it impossible to feed all parts of the plant with water.

The last thing Phytophthora affects the fruits of tomatoes. Brown divorces appear on them, the fruits are mummified and rot. The disease develops even on the unripe fruits of tomatoes.

Attention! Intact tomatoes collected from the diseased plant are not subject to storage - late blight can appear on these fruits at any time.

Usually the outbreak of late blight disease in the greenhouse coincides with the onset of cold nights after a hot day. Such a temperature difference is characteristic for the second half of summer, just at the time of the ripening of the fruits of tomatoes.

Flowering tomatoes affected by blight

The damage to tomato plants by late blight can be dry (when all parts of the plant simply dry out) and wet (characterized by the development of rot). Plant rot develops in inclement rainy weather.

Common causes of blight on tomatoes


Damages of tomato bushes, externally similar to late blight, also cause other diseases or violation of agricultural engineering rules:

  • top rot;
  • root exposure;
  • lack of boron and magnesium.

Preventive measures for the prevention of late blight tomato diseases


How to treat tomatoes infected with blight?

Bordeaux liquid - an excellent remedy for the treatment of tomatoes from phytophthora

Treat infected late blight plants allowed chemical preparations containing biologically active substances, and folk remedies. However, the general requirement for carrying out treatments is suitable weather conditions.

Attention! Systemic spraying of tomatoes is carried out in dry, clear weather, at least 5 times per season. Therapeutic treatments are carried out in conjunction with plant nutrition with drugs that strengthen the immune system of tomatoes.

Folk remedies to combat blight tomatoes

0.1 kg of ground garlic (you can use any parts of the plant) insist in 1 cup of water a day; filter; Add an infusion of 10 liters of water, adding 1 g of manganese-acid potassium. Garlic solution produce several spray plantings of tomatoes, starting with the period of formation of ovaries, in 10-12 days.

If you do not want to use chemicals, use garlic tincture

An effective preventive from phytophthora is milk serumwhich is diluted in half with water. Processing plants of tomatoes in the greenhouse can be done daily.

Once every 2 weeks you can spray tomato bushes with a solution of ordinary milk (1 l of skim milk and 20 drops of iodine are added to 10 liters of water).

Rotten hay   suitable for the treatment of diseased late blight plants: 1 kg of hay is poured 10 liters of water, with the addition of 100 g of urea. Insist the solution for 4 days, filter and spray tomatoes 1 time in 2 weeks.

Only 100 g baking yeastdiluted in 10 liters of water, will help to contain the development of the disease of tomatoes, if you spray the bushes at the first signs of the disease.

Salt solution - safe for fruits against late blight

Ripening fruits of tomatoes useful to protect against phytophthora solution salt. To do this, 1 cup of salt is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Spraying of green fruits is carried out monthly, 1 time.

When planting seedlings, you can wrap the roots thin copper wire, adult plants protect against phytophthora by “copper piercing”, when a piece of copper wire is inserted into the stem of an adult tomato plant.

Before flowering, tomato bushes can be treated once with a solution of copper sulphate (2 tablespoons of copper sulphate per 10 liters of water).

A very common method of treatment of phytophthora with the help of "Trikhopol": 1 tablet of the drug is dissolved in 1 liter of water. Spraying is carried out every 2 weeks.

Copper sulfate

Treatment of infected tomato plants with chemical agents.

"Fitosporin" - a drug that helps to neutralize the disease blight on tomatoes when grown in greenhouse conditions. The drug is used in planting seedlings: plants intended for planting in a greenhouse are dipped into the Fitosporin solution.

It is allowed to spill the soil with a solution of Fitosporin and add the drug to the water during watering. The dosage of the drug should be strictly observed in accordance with the recommendations of the manufacturer.

How to prepare Bordeaux liquid: video

Phytophthora on greenhouse tomatoes: photos