Delphinium (lat. Delphinium)  - genus of herbaceous plants of the family of buttercups. Other names are larkspur It contains about 450 species of annual and perennial plants. Delphiniums annuals, which include about 40 species, are sometimes distinguished into an adjacent genus and are called trippings (Consolida). Delphiniums grow in China (about 150 species) and throughout Southeast Asia, in the mountains of tropical Africa, in the northern and southern hemisphere. Many people believe that the unopened delphinium is a flower resembling the head of a dolphin, hence the name, but it is believed that they received their name in honor of the Greek city Delphi, in which they grow, they say, a great many. Be that as it may, a rare gardener does not agree with the fact that this luxurious flower will decorate any flower garden.

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Planting and care of the delphinium (in short)

• Landing:  perennial: sowing for seedlings in March, planting seedlings in the ground - in June, sowing seeds directly in the ground - in April-May. Annuals: sowing seeds in spring or near winter.
• Bloom:  summer.
• Lighting:  bright sun shading in the afternoon hours.
• The soil:  sandy or loamy, moderately moist, humus-rich, neutral or slightly acid.
• Watering:  in the dry season every week at the rate of 2-3 buckets of water per plant. After watering or rain - mandatory soil loosening to a depth of 3-5 cm.
• Top dressing:  mineral and organic fertilizers: 1st - when the shoots reach a height of 10-15 cm, 2nd - at the very beginning of flowering, 3rd - at the end of flowering. After each feeding requires abundant watering.
• Thinning and garter bushes:  required.
• Reproduction:  annuals - seeds, perennials - seeds and vegetatively (by dividing rhizomes, grafting).
• Diseases:  powdery mildew, root rot, peronosporosis, fusarium, rust, viral infections - spotting and mosaics.
• Pests:  mites, orbies, meadow nematodes, aphids and slugs.

Read more about growing delphinium below.

Delphinium flower - features

Growing a delphinium is not easyIt requires knowledge and labor. Firstly, the landing site must be sunny in the first half of the day and closed from strong winds, as well as those located on the site where the water does not stagnate, otherwise the delphinium will simply rot. After planting, mulching with peat or humus is mandatory. In one place, the delphiniums grow no more than 5-6 years, and Pacific species that are less durable, no more than 3-4, then the bushes need to be divided and planted.

Delphiniums require repeated garters so that their hollow stems do not break with the wind. In addition, the delphinium is sometimes affected by powdery mildew and certain types of pests. But if you are ready to fulfill all the whims of the delphinium, he will reward you with a lush, long flowering in June and another, shorter, but no less beautiful, in August or September.

  Growing delphinium from seed

Seeding delphinium

Growing a perennial delphinium from seeds is not only an advantageous occupation compared to the purchase of planting material, but also fascinating. Delphinium multiplies not only by seeds, but also by dividing rhizomes, buds and cuttings, but in this section we will tell how to grow a delphinium from seeds. Sowing delphinium carried out at the end of February.

Remember:  when storing seeds in a dry warm place, germination is lost. Fresh seeds should be sown immediately or kept in the refrigerator until the desired time.

Before sowing, it is necessary to disinfect the seeds:  placing them in a gauze bag, lower them for twenty minutes into a solution of potassium permanganate in a deep pink color. Instead of potassium permanganate, you can use a fungicide by preparing a solution according to the instructions. Then, without removing the seeds from the bag, rinse the seeds thoroughly with cold water and soak for a day in Appin solution (a couple of drops per 100 ml of water). After that, dry the seeds so as not to stick together.

Prepare the soil for seeds:  Take equal parts of peat, garden soil and humus (compost), add half of the washed sand, sift. To increase the moisture capacity and soil looseness, add perlite to it at the rate of half a cup per 5 liters of soil mixture. Now warm the mixture for an hour in a water bath to destroy weed seeds and mushroom spores. Fill the seed containers with the mixture and compact it slightly.

In the photo: How to sow the seeds of delphinium seedlings

Landing delphinium: Spread the seeds over the soil surface, immediately sticking labels with the name of the variety and the date of sowing. From above, sprinkle the seeds with a 3 mm layer of soil mixture so that the seeds do not float at the first watering, and slightly thicken the upper layer. Gently pour or spray the surface with cold boiled water. Cover the container with a transparent lid, and then a black film or covering material, since the seeds of the delphinium grow better in the dark, and place the container on the window sill closer to the glass.

The optimum temperature for seed germination is + 10-15 ºC.

To increase the germination, after 3-4 days, place the container in the refrigerator or on the glazed balcony and do not be afraid if the night temperature there drops to -5 ºC. After two weeks, place the seed container on the sill again. After this procedure (stratification), seedlings should appear in a week or two, and try not to miss this moment in order to immediately remove the film. Do not forget to ensure that the earth does not dry out, spray it from time to time and ventilate the container to get rid of condensate.

In the photo: the germination of delphinium seeds in a container

Healthy sprouts are dark green, strong, their cotyledons are characteristically pointed. When plants have 2-3 leaves, you can dive plants in pots with a volume of 200-300 ml, followed by growing them at a temperature not higher than 20 ºC. The soil should be loose, breathable, watering - very moderate, so as not to have a "black leg", which will lead to the death of seedlings. From the beginning of May, gradually accustom the seedlings to fresh air, without removing them from the window sill during ventilation. Let her stay in the bright sun for a while.

Delphinium seedlings are fed  before planting in open ground 1-2 times with a break of 2 weeks, Agricola or Mortar so that the solution does not fall on the leaves. Grown up seedlings can be planted in open ground, when a clod of earth in a pot is already completely covered with roots - the seedlings are easily removed together with a clod without damaging the root system.

Pictured: Sprouted delphinium seedlings

Landing Delphinium

Delphinium seedlings are planted in the open ground when the threat of frost has passed. The place, as already mentioned, should be sunny before lunch and without stagnant moisture. How to plant a delphinium? For planting, it is necessary to dig pits with a diameter of 40 cm and a depth of 50 cm at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, pour half a bucket of humus (compost) into each of them, two tablespoons of complex fertilizer and a glass of ash, mix it with the ground so that fertilizer does not hit the root of the plant, then make a well, put a seedling in it, compact the ground around it and water the bed. At first, it is better to cover each seedling with a plastic bottle or glass jar until the plants root properly, but as soon as the dolphiniums grow, the shelter must be removed.

  Delphinium care

When the shoots grow to 10-15 cm, their feed up  with a solution of cow manure in proportion 1 bucket of manure to 10 buckets of water - to 5 large bushes. The bed after removing weeds and loosening the soil should be mulched with a three-centimeter layer of humus or peat. TO bushes thinning  start when the stems are 20-30 cm tall: 3-5 stems should be left in the bush, which will allow to get larger and more beautiful inflorescences. Remove weaker shoots of the inner part of the bush, breaking off or cutting them off from the ground itself. This will protect the plant from disease and allow air to circulate.

Cut cuttings, if they are not yet hollow and cut with a heel (part of the rhizome), can be rooted.

The section is treated with a mixture of charcoal and crushed heteroauxin tablets, added dropwise in a mixture of sand and peat and placed under the film. After 3-6 weeks, the cutting starts up roots, and after another two weeks it is planted in open ground - this is the answer to the question of how to grow a delphinium in a vegetative way, in this case, by cutting.

When plants reach 40-50 cm in height, near each bush, trying not to damage the roots, they instill three support rods (laths) up to 180 cm high, to which tie up the stalks of delphinium  ribbons or strips of cloth, so that when a strong wind, they do not hit the stalks and do not damage them. The following tying is done at a height of 100-120 cm.

During the growing season, each delphinium "drinks" up to 60 liters of water. How to grow a delphinium in a dry summer?  Every week you need to pour 2-3 buckets of water under each bush. When after glaze  the earth dries out, it needs to be loosened to a depth of 3-5 cm. Especially delphiniums need watering during the formation of inflorescences, and if it is hot at this time, “brush spaces” will appear in the inflorescence, that is, areas without flowers. To avoid this, you need abundant watering and top dressing potash-phosphate fertilizers at the rate of 20 g of fertilizers per bucket of water - one liter of solution for each bush.

In the second half of the summer, powdery mildew may appear on the plants - a fungal disease that covers the leaves with white bloom, which then becomes brown. If time does not take action, all the aboveground part of the plant will die. At the first sign, you must sprinkle the delphiniums twice with a solution of Topaz or Fundazole. Sometimes black spots appear on the leaves of the delphinium, spreading from the bottom of the plant to the top. it black spot, which can only be dealt with at an early stage, by spraying the leaves twice with a solution of tetracycline in the proportion of 1 tablet per 1 liter of water.

Strikes delphiniums and ring spotpainting leaves with yellow spots. This is a viral disease, it cannot be cured, and the affected plants will have to be removed. But with the carrier of the virus, aphids, it is necessary to fight: to spray the plants with Malbofos or Aktellik for prevention. Of the plant pests, a delphinium fly is scary, laying eggs in buds and slugs. They fight insects with a fly, and slugs are discouraged by the smell of bleach, which can be placed in jars between the delphinium bushes.

After flowering inflorescence cut off, collect seeds, but new shoots appear, and in the fall the delphiniums bloom again. At the end of summer or the beginning of autumn, between the first and second flowering, it is possible to divide three to four year old delphinium bushes. Shrubs need to dig, gently split or cut with a knife so as not to damage the renewal buds, sprinkle the places of cuts with wood ash and plant the separated parts. This is another way of delphinium vegetative reproduction.

  Delphinium after flowering

When the leaves wither after flowering, the stalks of the delphinium are cut at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground and for reliability, the top of the tube (hollow stem) is covered with clay. This is done so that the autumn rains and melt water do not fall through the cavity to the root neck and do not contribute to the death of the plant from the decay of the rhizome. Almost all delphiniums are hardy., as adult plants, and seedlings. If the winter is cold and snowless, the beds with delphiniums should be covered with spruce branches or straw. Kill plants can only frequent and sudden changes in temperature, because they lead to an excess of moisture, which can rot the rhizomes. The best way to avoid this is to fall asleep a half-bucket of sand when landing at the bottom of the pit, so that excess moisture can go through it.

You may immediately think that dealing with this plant, especially growing a delphinium from seeds, is too troublesome, but if you are not afraid of the hassle and spend a little time and effort, the results will exceed all your expectations.

  Types of delphinium

Delphiniums are annual and perennial. Of annual delphiniums  The varieties of field delphinium and Ajax delphinium are best known.

This is a tall plant, almost two meters tall. The flowers in the inflorescences are simple or terry, pink, white, purple or blue. In culture since 1572. Very impressive look varieties Frosted Sky (blue flowers with white center), pale pink Qis Rose and dark blue Qis Dark Blue. Field delphinium blooms in early summer and blooms until autumn.

On the photo: How the leaves of the decorative delphinium look

Delphinium Ajax

Hybrid of the Delphinium of the Questionable and the Eastern Delphinium, which received the best qualities as a result of selection. The stem of this species is from 40 cm to 1 m high, almost sessile leaves are strongly dissected, spicate inflorescences, reaching 30 cm in length, come in a variety of colors: purple, red, blue, pink, blue and white. In some varieties of flowers gustomahrovye. There are dwarf varieties, such as the Dwarf Hyacinth-flowered, up to 30 cm tall with double flowers of purple, pink, crimson and white. Ajax delphiniums bloom from June to the most frost.

Delphinium hybrid

Growing a perennial delphinium  in the culture began in the XIX century: breeders based on the first perennials Delphinium Elatum (Delphinium High)   and Delphinium Grandiflora (Delphinium grandiflora)   by crossing received the first hybrid (Delphinium Barlowii - Delphinium Barlow, Delphinium Formosum - Delphinium beautiful and Delphinium belladonna - Delphinium belladonna), and then the Frenchman Victor Lemoine brought terry form perennials purple, blue and lavender, which were called Delphinium Ornatum (beautiful) or “Hybrid” (Delphinium hybridum), and then renamed “cultural” (Delphinium cultorum). Today perennial delphiniums in their color palette count up to 800 shades! Among them are tall, medium-sized and short growing varieties with simple, semi-double, double and super-sized flowers ranging in size from 2 cm to 9 cm in diameter.

In the photo: Delphinium Field (Delphinium Consolida)

Hybrid perennials are divided into groups by place of origin. Scottish (F1 hybrids) are most popular, new zealand delphiniums  (New Millennium Delphiniums, or New Zealand Hybrids) and martin hybridsnamed in honor of the state farm Marfino. Each group has its own differences and dignity. The Marphin, for example, have excellent frost resistance and high decorativeness; they have large semi-double flowers with bright contrasting eyes (blue lace, morpheus, spring snow, pink sunset). But it is problematic to grow a long-term marfinsky delphinium from seeds, because the seeds do not retain varietal characteristics.

New Zealand group, created not so long ago, it is distinguished by high growth (up to 2.2 m), large semi-double or double flowers (7–9 cm in diameter), in some species, the petals are corrugated. These hybrids are frost-resistant, resistant to diseases, durable, stand perfectly in cutting and that is why they are the most popular today. Growing New Zealand delphiniums is a rewarding and profitable occupation if you earn by selling flowers. Popular varieties: Sunny Skies, Green Twist, Pagan Purples, Blue Lace, Sweethearts.

In the photo: New Zealand Delphiniums (New Millennium Delphiniums)

By the author scottish hybrid perennial delphiniums  is tony cockley. These hybrids have very dense buds of super and terry flowers, sometimes with up to 58 petals. With the growth of the plant 1.1-1.5 m inflorescence reaches 80 cm in length! "Scots" have a wide color palette, unpretentious, durable and perfectly retain their varietal properties during seed propagation. The most famous varieties are Morning Sunrise, Blueberry Pie, Moon Light, Sweet Sensation, Crystal Delight and Deepest Pink.

Perennial plant that is well suited for a variety of decorative plantings - delphinium. Growing hybrid forms is quite common in floriculture, although there are beautiful wild species. The delphinium has powerful bushes about two meters high. The leaves are palpator-shaped, large. The flowers of various colors (white, purple, etc.), reach a diameter of 5 cm. The flowers are collected in inflorescence - a brush. It is the beauty of the delphinium. Brushes are long, thick, lush. Their length can reach 60-120 cm. Flowers bloom upwards. If you quickly remove the faded shoots, then in some forms under favorable conditions, new inflorescences develop and decorative effect is maintained until early September. After flowering decorativeness is lost.

Growing delphinium from seed

To prevent the seeds of the delphinium from losing their germination, it is recommended to keep them in the refrigerator at a temperature of plus five degrees in a glass or sealed container. Since the seedlings are susceptible to various diseases, before sowing the substrate must be disinfected with 3-5% formalin solution, and the seeds treated with a fungicide or 0.1 percent (in gauze bags put in ten minutes in the solution). Sowing seeds do in different conditions. Sown under winter in the groove, when steady frosts occur. The soil is prepared in advance. From above, the seeds are covered with humus, which is stored in a dark room before sowing. Sometimes seeds are sown in the spring directly into the ground (April, May). Thick shoots thinned (10 to 10), when the seedlings will have several true leaves. Extra plants are transferred to the ridges, protecting them at first from the sun with shields. But guaranteed seedlings can be achieved when working in a greenhouse, room, greenhouse. The best term for sowing seeds is March. In this case, the delphinium blooms in August.

Substrates:

Humus: sand: turf ground (2/1/1);

Leaf (peat land): river sand: (2/1/1).

How to grow a delphinium from seed

It turned out that crop lovers often get unsuccessful. Indeed, sowing and cultivation of delphinium from seeds requires compliance with the required details. The following is a detailed technique that will provide high-quality cultivation of delphinium from seeds and seedlings, developed by N. I. Malyutin, a specialist in delphinium culture. The prepared substrate must be sieved. The ground in the boxes, especially at the side walls, is well compacted and watered abundantly. Top dry with dry ground, after which the surface must be carefully leveled with a ruler. Otherwise, the water will drain into the grooves, which can lead to uneven and even rotting of the seedlings. Sow randomly, at the rate of 1-2 seeds per 1 cm². Seeds when planting should be slightly pressed into the ground by ramming. Then gently pour and cover with a layer of about 3 mm of earth, sifting it through a fine sieve. Failures during planting are associated with deep seed embedding. In the case of a small outcrop of seeds after watering, they can be slightly sprinkled with earth. To protect the substrate from drying out, the boxes are covered with paper. After the emergence of seedlings (about 10 days at a temperature of 15 - 16 ° C), the paper is removed, and the boxes are placed closer to the light. It is necessary to ensure uniform moistening of the earth. The lack of moisture is manifested in the form of a dark green color of leaves and cotyledons, which are usually light. If during watering the water does not penetrate to the bottom of the drawers, they should be put in the iron trays filled with water for a while. Then the moisture will go to the roots, leaving the ground dry, and the seedlings will not suffer from the "black leg". If the cultivation of delphinium from seeds occurs by the above method, the first leaves appear 4-6 weeks. Seedlings dive into the hotbed at a distance of about 4 cm. It is important to consider that the seeds of a delphinium with a dark color of flowers germinate longer than with light. Therefore, it is not necessary to postpone the picking when planting varieties with light flowers. When picking seedlings, care must be taken not to fill the growth point with earth. Deep landing is undesirable. After transplantation, seedlings should be watered with warm water and placed in a shaded place for 5-6 days, and then give full light. Plants are ready for planting in the main ground by May.

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Delphinium perennial - planting and care all year round, secrets of seed reproduction

To settle on your site delphinium perennial, planting and caring for which will be more difficult than the classic Annals, you need to know how to grow seedlings. You should also figure out when to repot the flower to a permanent place, how to fertilize it and whether pruning is needed? All this you learn from the article, as well as be able to see the photo.

Varieties and types of perennial delphinium, growing conditions

Delphinium is a magnificent perennial, which is able to decorate open areas, shade shrubs, give a noble look to the area with a gazebo or pond. The long-term subgroup, in comparison with annual, forms larger, high inflorescences. Delphiniums are divided into several species depending on where they originally grew. The following perennial varieties of this family are known:

1. scottish  - beautiful perennial plants with super flowers, crowning peduncles 120-160 cm high. This species is long standing, well propagated by seeds. At the same time, plants retain all varietal qualities;
2. marfinsky  - The flowers of this group are famous for their high resistance to freezing. Gardeners, they fell in love with the large double or semi-double flowers with a contrast eye. When propagated by seeds do not retain varietal qualities. Therefore, they are often propagated by dividing the bush;
3. new Zealand  - the largest perennials of the group. Peduncles they grow up to 3 m tall, and the flowers reach 10 cm in diameter. Differ in frost resistance, immunity to mushroom infections, long stand after cutting.

For such a complex plant, planting should be subject to the basic requirements of the culture to the conditions of growth. In nature, they prefer to settle in open areas, hills, hillsides. Perennial varieties are very important the presence of air movement. Air stasis and high humidity are detrimental to culture. Therefore, before growing a perennial delphinium from seeds, it is important to choose the right place, which should be:

• slightly elevated, so that the moisture does not stay on the ground for a long time;
• open, without drafts, so that under the gusts of wind the hollow peduncles do not bend or break;
• protected from direct sunlight in the afternoon, so that flowering lasts longer;
• with loose and nutritious soil, well permeable.

Where the flower will grow, there must not be stagnant melt water or rainwater. The correct choice of planting dates will serve to the full formation of the plant, thanks to which the bush will calmly transfer even the frosty winter.

When and how to sow the seeds?

To get a viable shrub, planting should begin long before the onset of constant heat: the middle lane, the Moscow region - the end of March, in Siberia, the Urals - the first decade of the same month, and the southern regions can be sown for seedlings in early February. Before planting, seedlings should have 4-6 true leaves.

Before you grow perennials, seeds need to be carefully processed, subjected to stratification - a special temperature effect, which increases the germination. They are placed inside a bag of gauze and immersed in a bright pink manganese solution, hold for 20 minutes. After that, the seeds are washed, not taking out of the bag, then dipped in (diluted 2 drops of the stimulator in 120 ml of water), hold for 10-12 hours. After this treatment, they are dried. At the same time prepare the soil from the following components:

• humus;
• garden land;
• peat

They are taken in equal parts, added to coarse sand (0.5 measures) or perlite (per 5 kg of soil mixture not more than 0.5 kg). The soil is filled with containers for seedlings and the prepared seeds are laid out on the surface. Planting is completed by watering, as well as the sleep of crops with a soil layer of 0.5-1 cm.

Capacities with crops cover a film, impenetrable for light, then 2-3 days keep on a loggia (refrigerator). The temperature there can drop to -6 ْ C. In such conditions, the stratification of the seeds will take place - they harden and the shell will become more thin. After that, the containers are transferred closer to the window or tude, where the temperature is kept in the region of +11 + ... 15 ْ C.

Good results are obtained by planting under winter - the seeds are sown with the onset of constant cold in October (in the southern regions in November) to a depth of 2-4 cm. Plantings are mulched with humus, covered with non-woven material. In winter, they are showered with snow in order to prevent severe soil freezing.

Shoots will appear in 7-10 days. Care at first consists of watering and periodically turning the seedlings relative to the light source. Feed the young at this stage is not necessary. After the appearance of the first leaves once every 2 weeks, Agricola or Mortar is added to the water for irrigation according to the instructions. The temperature of the content is increased to +21 ْ C.

Planting time in the open ground in the Moscow region and the middle lane occurs around mid-May. In Siberia and the Urals, in early June, and in the southern regions, in May or late April.

Care culture

Plants are planted on previously prepared beds, seasoned with humus (1 bucket per 2 m2), peat (1 bucket per 1 m2) and sand (1 bucket per 4 m2).

Planting is carried out in the wells, located according to the scheme 20-30 x 40-50 cm. Plants are watered, mulched with a peat layer of at least 3 cm. Care includes weeding and abundant watering (at least 2 times a week). When the bush grows to 35 cm in height, it is thinned, removing weak shoots. Leave no more than 6 shoots per bush. As they grow, shoots are tied to supports.

After the formation of inflorescences care is abundant watering. To feed a long-term delphinium it is necessary to infuse mullein twice a month, diluting a liter of the product in a bucket of water, you can also use phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (20 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium salt per 1 m2). Toward the end of the summer plants (according to the instructions on the package) to prevent the spread of powdery mildew.

In the autumn after the shoots have dried, they are cut at a height of 30 cm above the soil, and with the onset of cold weather, the ground surface is covered with spruce branches or straw. Film cover is not needed.

Among the garden plants there is a small group of flowers that are both considered "difficult" and unpretentious. These include delphiniums. Old simple varieties grow without problems in every garden, but modern chic delphiniums are not amenable to everyone. The difference between these flowers is the same as between a dog rose and a noble rose. Elite delphiniums are dense tall ears, they are large terry flowers, unusually bright or two-colored stains. How to grow such varieties? In this article, we summarized the experience of many gardeners, including the breeder of New Zealand delphiniums, Terry Daudeswell.

There are several ways to grow delphiniums.

1. Buy seedlings of elite varieties in the nursery or in the store.New Zealand and English delphiniums in containers appeared on sale. The cost of these seedlings is quite high, but they have 100% survival rate and quality assurance.

2. Propagate the variety you like from your neighbors or friends.Use young shoots (8-10 cm), which appear in the spring.

3. Divide the adult bush.It is necessary to divide the delphiniums, as the bushes over 4 years old bloom worse and winter.

4. Grow delphinium from seeds.New Zealand and English seeds cannot be called cheap, but compared to seedlings in containers, seeds are inexpensive. But it's not about the price. Often the seeds do not sprout, or seedlings die from the black leg. How to bring them to flowering?

DOLPHINIUM SEEDS DON'T GO?

Seed germination depends on the timing and storage conditions. At room temperature, the delphiniums quickly lose their germination. The same temperature can be in the store. Therefore, when buying, do not look for the expiration date, but the date of collection or packaging of seeds. It is best to buy delphiniums in the fall, then you can purchase seeds of this year of harvest.

Immediately after the purchase, the seeds of the delphinium should be put in the fridge and stored there until sowing.

NEED STRATIFICATION?

Many gardeners believe that if the seeds were kept in the fridge, this is stratification. But this is far from the case. When sowing seeds from the refrigerator germination is very different. Fresh seeds that are properly stored, germinate without stratification (in normal indoor conditions).

If the seeds have lain for more than a year, then we need special conditions for their awakening.

Different gardeners use different methods, and at first glance they are completely opposite!

1 METHOD THERMAL.  Old seeds in gauze immersed in very hot water (like tea), and after 35 seconds in cold. The procedure is repeated 5 times. After that, the seeds are sown.

2 WAYS.  The earth in the bowl is shed with hot water and seeds are sown on warm soil. The stove is placed on the battery by placing a newspaper or towel folded under it in several layers. After 35 days, crops are cleaned on the windowsill, closer to the cold glass.

3 METHOD - COLD STRATIFICATION.Seeds are sown in plates, covered with a bag and put in a refrigerator for two or three weeks. Periodically look, whether shoots appeared. As soon as the first seeds hatch, immediately to the light!

In all three cases, the impact of a sharp change in temperature is used, but the cold stratification is used most often. But to freeze the seeds do not need. At negative temperatures, the varietal characteristics change. Color changes often, and the terry disappears. Freezing or under-winter sowing is used only for “ordinary” delphiniums that do not possess super-elite qualities.

NOT EVERYTHING IS LOST!

How to understand whether the seeds germinate without stratification or not? Alexey Malyshev from Nizhny Novgorod developed his own method of sowing. It is very suitable for New Zealand delphiniums, which in a bag of 3-5 pieces. Each seed in the account, so you need to carefully observe them! In fact, this is a double stratification.

First stage. Soak the seeds.  In a plastic jar from the food we make the drain holes. At the bottom we place a wet napkin and seeds on it. Above, too, a damp napkin. We cover the jar with a plastic lid or bag.

For soaking the seeds is useful to use melt water. It is known that it has a stimulating effect.

First, 7-10 days, the seeds are at room temperature (18-25 ° C). In such conditions, the seeds in the napkin can germinate. So, caught fresh and can be sown. But if the seeds have not germinated, all is not lost!

We start the second stage.Swollen seeds in the same jar put on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. After 23 weeks, the seeds begin to spit!

The process is uneven, every day (or even twice) it is necessary to view the seedlings. As soon as we see a new germinated seed, we immediately take it out of the jar and sow. For crops of delphinium it is convenient to use cassettes with cells of 5x5 cm: there is one seed in each cell.

In the literature, advise a different soil mixture. Alexey Malyshev sows in a usual purchased soil (of good quality) for growing seedlings.

Sow germinated seeds with caution, for example, using a toothpick. Strongly do not bury no more than 5 mm.

IMPORTANT CONDITIONS - TEMPERATURE AND LIGHT

After the seeds have germinated, the crops should stand in a bright, cool place. The optimal mode is 17-18 degrees. This temperature can be provided on the insulated loggia. In extreme cases, put the dish closer to the glass.

In general, good lighting is one of the ways to prevent black legs. Want beautiful delphiniums buy a lamp!

Also, lighting is needed if you can not provide cool conditions. The higher the air temperature, the more light is needed.

Another important condition is humidity. While the plants are small, the crop bed should be kept covered with a bag or a transparent lid. Under it should be condensate. But do not allow excess moisture! Otherwise, again threatened black foot. Every day, crops should be aired, opening the package for 10-15 minutes.

COUNCIL FROM TERRY Daudeswell

How to grow seedlings delphinium at home

Old delphinium bushes do not tolerate wet, prolonged autumn and often die. Therefore, once every 3-4 years they need to be rejuvenated or replaced. One way is to grow a delphinium from seed. The first bloom comes in six months!

How to store seeds

Flower growers often ask why purchased dolphinium seeds do not sprout while seeds from their garden germinate perfectly. The thing is, we usually sow our seeds fresh, and we buy our purchased seeds at home (as we purchase in the offseason).

With warm, dry storage, delphinium seeds quickly lose their germination. If you bought seeds at the beginning of winter and before sowing is still far away, immediately put the bags in the refrigerator.

When to sow delphinium

You can sow the delphinium at various times: in the fall (immediately after collecting the seeds), before the winter (after the soil freezes). At home, crops can be started in the second half of February.

Preparation of delphinium seeds for sowing

Carry out seed disinfection: put them in a gauze bag in a thick pink solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes or in a fungicide solution prepared according to the instructions (Maxim, Fitosporin).

After potassium permanganate, rinse the seeds thoroughly in cold water and soak the seeds for a day in the Epin solution (1-2 drops per 100 ml of water) in the same bags. Dry slightly so that they do not stick together during sowing.

Soil mixture for seeding delphinium

Land for planting should consist of garden soil, peat and humus (or compost) in equal parts. Add 0.5 parts of washed sand.

Sift. To increase the looseness and moisture capacity of the mixture, it is good to add a little perlite (about 0.5 cups per 5 liters of the mixture).

Steam the soil mixture for 1 hour in a water bath to destroy the spores of fungi and weed seeds.

Fill the sowing tank with a moist soil mixture, smooth and slightly compacted.

Spread the delphinium seeds evenly over the soil surface. If the seeds are small, you can spread them out with tweezers. In order not to confuse varieties, immediately at the time of sowing, put labels with the names of varieties.

Sprinkle the seeds on top of the same soil with a layer of about 3 mm. So that the seeds do not float at the first watering, compact the ground a little.

Gently pour or carefully spray the crops of the delphinium from a spray bottle with cold boiled water.

The delphinium rises better in the dark, and a little light can penetrate through the loose soil to the seeds. Therefore, crops should be covered with black covering material or film. It is better to put them immediately on the window sill, closer to the glass. The seeds of the delphinium germinate even at a temperature of +8 ... + 10 ° C. At temperatures above + 20 ° C, seedlings are oppressed and often die.

How to increase the germination of delphinium

Very well improves seed germination temperature changes. Hold the sowing container for 3-4 days at a temperature of +10 ... + 15 ° С, then put it in the refrigerator for 2 weeks on the glazed balcony or veranda.

It is not terrible if the temperature at night will drop to -3 ...- 2 ° С. This will benefit seeds. After a two-week cold period, re-seed the area.

Usually after such preparation shoots appear on the 7-14 day. It is important not to miss this moment, in time to remove the dark shelter and place the shoots of the delphinium in the light on the window, closer to the glass, where the temperature is not above + 20 ° C.

When the first true sheet appears, you can begin picking.

How to dive delphinium

For picking, you can use the same soil composition, adding 1 tablespoon of complete mineral fertilizer (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium + trace elements) to 5 liters of the mixture, and mix thoroughly. The volume of dishes for picking seedlings is not very important.

After hardening, delphinium seedlings can be planted in a permanent place at the end of April. Delphinium - cold-resistant culture, well-hardened young plants tolerate small spring frosts.

Using a small spatula, make a small depression in the compacted soil, sufficient for free placement of the seedling roots. Sprinkle the roots with earth and gently seal it around the plant with your fingers. The root neck should be at the level of the soil surface.

Carefully water the plants under the root, holding the seedling. If the roots are bare, sprinkle on top of the remaining earth.

How to feed delphinium seedlings

Before landing in the ground, the delphinium should be fed 1-2 times with an interval of 2 weeks by feeding it with a solution of mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (preferably with trace elements). For this very suitable fertilizer Mortar, Fertika Lux, Agricola. Fertilizer solution when feeding should not fall on the leaves. If this happens, gently rinse it off with clean water.

When the seedlings will have 3-4 true leaves, you can begin to harden in the fresh air. After 2 weeks of hardening, the delphinium can be planted in the ground.