Violet. Care

This article will help beginners to understand the specific terms that are often found in conversations of "initiates."

First, we will figure out what elements the plant consists of. The violet has underground and aboveground parts. Under the ground it is the root system and the lower part of the stem. On its elevated lobe, the leaves, which make up the rosette, are arranged in tiers. In other words, a violet rosette is a bundle of its leaves.

Often the outlet is also called the head. So they say: "cut off the head", "root the head." It does not usually mean the entire outlet, but several upper tiers of leaves, the tip. The topmost part of the stem with the leaflets that have just appeared are called the growth points, or growth center.

Violet leaf consists of a leaf plate and petiole. When breeding it is also called the handle. Not be superfluous here to mention the juvenile leaves. These are the very first leaves that remain small when the outlet develops. Although they are suitable for breeding (and quite fast in comparison with the adult sheet), they often give only one weak babe. For this reason, many growers prefer to simply remove them.

In the axils of the leaves can form stepchildren or flower stalks. Pysynki - these are the same only without roots, because they grow directly on the stem. They can be used for breeding violets with a complex color. If you do not plan to multiply this violet, stepchildren are best removed to speed up the onset of flowering.

The word "flower stalk" speaks for itself. This is the shoot, on which the flowers are located, from one to several. In addition to flowers on the peduncle there are bracts, the more developed they are, the more this peduncle is suitable for reproduction. The method is very laborious, so they use it almost exclusively for.

Violet flower consists of pistil, stamens and petals. The latter play a more decorative role; in nature they attract insects for pollination. The pestle and stamens serve directly for fertilization during breeding work. In the pestle, you can distinguish the stigma, post and ovary. The stamens consist of anthers and staminate filaments.

Here are the terms most often you can hear in conversations fialkovodov. Armed with this knowledge, you will easily follow any of their advice and recommendations.

Any questions? I am pleased to answer them in the comments.

Indoor violets (Saintpaulias), without a doubt, are the most popular and favorite flowers of many gardeners and housewives. In many countries, the bloom of violets means the arrival of spring. Their inflorescences, though small, but delicate and elegant, remind us of our oneness with nature. Room Saintpaulias do not occupy much space on window sills, are not sources of allergies and are completely unpretentious. You just need a little love and knowledge of her preferences, so that these cute flowers grow and continuously bloom in your home. We will share the secrets of caring for violet at home. In this article, you will learn how to water a wick and droplet correctly, to which soil to replant, and even how to prepare the substrate yourself.

Violet is a thermophilic flower. The optimum ambient temperature, comfortable for its cultivation, should be in the range of 20 - 25 ° C. If in summer, during flowering, the temperature will tend to 30 ° C, the violet will suffer from overheating. Its flowers will become smaller, the color of leaves and flowers will dim, the varietal features, in the form of variegated foliage and bright border, will disappear. Use all the temperature-reducing devices you have — air conditioning, a split system, a fan, or ventilate the room.

But violets do not like a sharp temperature drop, cold drafts and the scorching rays of the sun. From this they should be protected. In winter, the air temperature should be around 20 ° C. (strictly not below 16 ° C).

Location of the pot with saintpaulia

A pot with a flower is better to put on the windowsill by the east or west window. In the summertime, the sills of the northern direction will also work, and in the wintertime, on the contrary, violets will be more comfortable on the sill of the south window. If your windows are not of European standard, in winter it is better to remove the flower from the cold window sill. Place the pot on the shelf or table next to the window, and use the extra light. And you can use a foam or wooden stand for flowers, 3 cm thick. Then the root system on the windowsill will not overcool. Otherwise, at a low temperature, the bloom of violet will stop.

Ambient air humidity

Under natural conditions, violets grow in places with high humidity. If the air in your house is dry, it should be humidified to 50–60% or more. It is best to put the flower in a pan with wet clay or pebbles. Make sure that the bottom of the pot was not in the water - the roots of Saintpaulia should not come into contact with moisture. You can install close to the windowsill household air humidifier.

Regular spraying leaves for violets is not suitable. Its pubescent leaves retain water droplets on its surface, as a result of which it can develop. It is especially dangerous to spray violet at night, when the room becomes cooler and the water does not evaporate for a long time. In the autumn-winter time, wet towels placed on radiators will help increase the humidity in the room.

Solar and artificial lighting

Indoor violets love good but diffused lighting. The direct rays of the sun for them are destructive, from them the leaves of the plant get burned, fall ill and fall. But without enough sunlight the violet will not bloom. For its normal growth, it is necessary to illuminate 10-14 hours a day. Note that Saintpaulias with dense, dark green foliage require more intense and long-lasting illumination than those with bright curled leaves.

If necessary, arrange artificial light for flowers using a fluorescent lamp, phytolamps, or LED strips, and violets grow beautifully under such light.

Lighting plants on the one hand can bend the shape of the flower rosette - because the leaves are drawn to the light. Therefore, periodically turn the pot with a flower around its axis. Then the bushes will be compact, symmetrical, with juicy greens and lush flowering.

Night darkness is also important for the growth of violet, otherwise its leaves become faded and she refuses to bloom.

Methods of watering violets

Always water responsibly. Be sure to observe the golden mean, avoiding either excessive drying or over-wetting of the substrate, since deviations in either direction will equally adversely affect the health of the plant. Watering violets should be separated by tap water at room temperature. Boiled water is also suitable, since when boiling most of the harmful salts decompose and precipitate.

Once a month, you can acidify the water for irrigation with acetic acid (1 tsp per 1 liter of water) or citric acid (5 crystals per 1 liter of water) acid.

We remind you that the temperature of the water used is no less important than its quality. Too cold or hot water will damage the flower's root system.

For room violets we do not recommend using the traditional method of irrigation - in the outlet. Water should not fall on the leaves and the growing point, so as not to provoke a fungal disease of the flower. In addition, from wet stains leaves through a pane of glass can get sunburn even in winter. It will be better if you water the violets in other ways. Here are some of the most commonly used irrigation methods for senpolia.

Watering through the pan

Pour the room temperature water to a quarter of the height of the pot into a pan or other container. Place a pot with violet in the water for about half an hour to allow the soil to soak in moisture. You will see that the required level of humidity is reached when the earth darkens. If you combine watering with top dressing, the flower will also receive the necessary nourishment apart from moisture.

If you have a wide pan and simultaneously put several violets into it for watering, it is important to ensure that all plants are healthy, otherwise the disease of one will go to the other.

Take water quality seriously. If you water the violets with undisturbed tap water, then the numerous impurities in it will rise to the top of the substrate each time with the bottom irrigation and remain there. The soil will soon become worthless from salinity. The root system will no longer absorb the beneficial trace elements. You will see it on a white patina on the surface of the soil and a painful plant look. Violation of the quality of water used will result in minus irrigation through the pan.

Drip irrigation

For drip irrigation, use a watering can with a narrow spout or a large pear-syringe, in order to easily get to the soil, bypassing the rosette of violet leaves. The growth point is also not worth pouring. If you do not have either a watering can or a syringe, you can take a regular plastic bottle, make a hole in its lid into which to insert a tube. Water a drop of soil until the excess water flows into the drain pan from the drainage holes. Then stop watering, and after 15 minutes. Drain excess water from the pan.

If you accidentally spilled water on the leaves, nothing terrible will happen, just dab the moisture with a dry cloth.

Immersion method

A pot with a flower on particularly hot days during the next watering can be immersed in a bowl with distilled water at room temperature for about an hour. The plant is saturated with moisture, rests from the heat, its root system cools. After that, let the excess water drain, and return the plant to its original place.

Wicker watering violets

As a wick, use a cord or a narrow strip of cotton fabric, which should be passed through one end into a drain hole at the bottom of the pot. The other end of the wick is immersed in a container with water for irrigation. A pot with a flower is installed on this container, and the moisture due to the capillary effect rises through the wick inside. The essence of wick irrigation is that the violet will take as much water as it needs. The moisture level in the ground remains stable and is regulated by the violet itself, depending on the ambient temperature. Below is a detailed video of wick irrigation, we recommend that you read it.

Wicker watering is not suitable for all violets, because it has several drawbacks:

This way you can water the plants only in the warm season, because in winter the water cools quickly, especially if the water tank and the pot stand on a cold window-sill. Violets do not like their roots to be in the cold. A supercooled root system is susceptible to disease and may die.
For even watering, only small pots, sized 7x7 and no more, are suitable. Uneven moistening of the soil will lead to the growth of green mass to the detriment of the flower bloom.

What soil is suitable for Saintpaulia

The soil of violets is friable, light, breathable, so that the root system does not suffer from a lack of oxygen. It is also important that the earth is moisture-absorbing and retains moisture well. And yet, when choosing a land for violets should take into account the acidity index. These plants feel good on weakly acidic soils, with a pH from 6.0 to 6.5. With a strong deviation of acidity in one direction or another, the flower ceases to absorb the mineral and organic substances from the soil normally, and nitrogen-phosphorus starvation may occur. Plant growth will slow down, bud fall off, not even revealed. If the substrate is too sour, the young leaves will curl, and under alkaline conditions they will lose their bright color, turn pale, their tips will turn brown.

Of the chemical elements in the composition of the soil for violets, nitrogen and phosphorus compounds, potassium salts and macro- and microelements should be present: iron, boron, calcium, chlorine, sulfur, zinc, molybdenum and others.

In small pots, which are so fond of violets, the soil is quickly depleted - do not forget to fertilize it and in time to transplant plants in new pots. It is best to use ready-made soil for Saintpaulia or room violets, which is desirable to purchase in specialized stores. Unfortunately, often purchased soil suffers from poor quality. Specialists flower growers add perlite, vermiculite and coconut fiber to the finished soil as baking powder. But a bit of everything, in order not to provoke the rotting of the roots.

How to independently prepare a substrate for violets

If you are a fan of self-compiling soil mixes, we will show you the proportions suitable for violets:

high-moor peat - 1 part;
coniferous land - 1 part (harvested under coniferous trees after removing the top layer of needles);
leaf earth - 3 parts (harvested under deciduous trees and shrubs);
sod land - 2 parts (it is harvested in the places where perennial grasses grow);
large river sand or perlite - 1 part.

As a drainage, use expanded clay with pieces of charcoal of different fractions, which will regulate the soil moisture and adsorb harmful impurities.

All components should be disinfected - steamed or frozen.

How to check the soil for acidity

The acidity of the soil is not constant, it changes over time. Any change in the appearance of the plant, the shape and color of its leaves, stunted growth and lack of flowering should alert you and encourage you to check the acidity.

The acidity of the substrate is checked using a special device. If you do not have it, try to determine the acidity of your soil by folk methods. We will show you how to do this.

Take two small containers, glass or ceramic, it does not matter. Place in them the same small amount of soil, slightly moist.
Put vinegar in first container. If the environment is alkaline - the earth will hiss.
In the second tank, fill the soil with soda. If the medium is acidic, the release of gas bubbles will begin.
If the reaction is not followed - you have neutral soil.

You can reduce the acidity at home with the help of dolomite flour, and increase it with the help of peat.

Pot size and material

It should be remembered that the flower does not like big pots. Conventionally, all violets can be divided into large, medium and miniature species. In all, the root system is superficial and does not require large amounts of land. In the nature of Saintpaulia grow quietly, even on stony soils. Therefore, even for a large adult plant, a pot with a diameter of not more than 12 cm is sufficient. Make a choice based on the information presented in the table.

For young violets suitable pots with a diameter of not more than 5 cm, better plastic, as they are light, cheap and durable. One thing is bad - they do not let the air through. Therefore, we advise you to add more holes in the bottom of its side walls to good drainage holes in the bottom of the pot so that the root system of the plant breathes, ventilates freely, and the soil does not acid.

If you had only a large pot in your presence, and you planted your small violet in it, it will not bloom. And there are several reasons for this:

In a large pot, the flower will begin to build up primarily the green mass of leaves to the detriment of flowering.

As long as the root system of the flower does not cover the entire volume of the substrate offered to it, the violet will not bloom. It will take a year or two until you see the first bloom.

Excess soil, not braided roots, does not dry out for a long time, and can sour. There will be a danger of a fungal infection and the appearance of insect pests, which in a huge mass of leaves you can simply not detect in time and lose a flower.

On sale there plastic pots with special plastic pallets, which have a ribbed surface, allowing them to stay in a raised position above the pallet. It also helps the root system breathe air.

Ceramic pots, covered with glaze, are very beautiful, but they have the same drawback as that of plastic - they do not breathe. In addition, they are expensive and heavy. If you still like ceramics, we advise you to opt for unglazed ceramic pots. They are less aesthetic, heavy and short-lived, but air is passed through the walls, and the violets in them feel great. And you can eliminate the aesthetic drawback if you buy a flowerpots or a beautiful pot of a slightly larger size, in which you hide ugly clay.

Fertilizers and dressings for violets

Young violets need fertilizing with a predominance of nitrogen, so that the green mass grows faster and the leaf rosette is well formed. Saintpaulia, ready to bloom, should be fertilized with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. In addition, flowers need and vitamins and other trace elements for healthy growth and abundant flowering. Therefore, we recommend purchasing liquid complex fertilizers with a wide range of components for decorative flowering houseplants.

Apply top dressing should be no more than two times a month. Combine top dressing with watering through the pan. Do not use fertilizers in larger doses than indicated in the instructions - it is better not to feed than to overdo and ruin the delicate roots of violets. Neglect feedings should not be. You will immediately notice a lack of nutrients in the appearance of the flower - its growth will slow down, the leaves and stems will lose elasticity, there will be no flowering, or it will be weak.

After planting or transplanting, nutrients from fresh soil disappear within two months, and after this period you need to restore the nutritional value of the substrate with fertilizers and fertilizers.

Violets are not particularly demanding for certain types of feeding. If there are no special fertilizers for senpoly, they can be fed with complex fertilizers for vegetables, which include nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, iron, cobalt, magnesium, copper, molybdenum and boron. Their role in the life of the plant is to ensure the synthesis of enzymes that make it possible to effectively use the energy of the sun, water and the nutrients contained in the soil. Vitamins and amino acids stimulate the roots of the plant to absorb as much as possible micro and macro elements from water and earth.

For the prevention of fungal and bacterial diseases, root and stem rot, we recommend occasionally (once a month) watered with a solution of Fitosporin. This drug can be bought in garden or flower shops in the form of powder or briquette in the form of clay. How to breed them is indicated on the packaging. The storage time of the diluted drug is large, you should literally add a few drops to the water for irrigation. One package is usually enough for the whole season.

Transplanting violets at home

Room Saintpaulias grow and flower better in small pots. Experienced growers know that the optimal size of the container for violets should not exceed the third part of its outlet. The reserve of soil in them is not great, therefore, as the outlet grows, it is desirable to repot the flower into a pot that is slightly larger in size at first. Adult specimens do not need to increase the size of the pot; the same pot is quite suitable for them if you remove a third of the soil from under the roots, and replace it with a fresh nutrient substrate.

The following facts speak about the need for transplantation:

plant growth has clearly slowed down;
a white salt deposit appeared on the surface of the substrate;
the lower part of the stem of the violet was strongly exposed, it should clearly be deepened;
the root system of the flower has filled all the space in the pot.

Flowering violet is transplanted only in emergency cases, when it is not up to flowering, just to save the flower. A healthy plant during flowering should not be transplanted - wait for it to finish. Also, this is not worth doing in the winter, wait until spring. But at other times, the violet can be transplanted without fear of harming the plant in any way.

Transplantation is done in different ways: by the method of transshipment and with full or partial replacement of the soil.

Transfer by transfer

Since the root system of violets is poorly developed, sometimes the roots from the old earth are not liberated so as not to damage them. Then use the most gentle method of transplanting plants - transfer to another pot. In this case, a new pot is picked up a little larger than the previous one. At the bottom of the stack layer of drainage and a layer of soil. Now they put an earthen clod with violet roots in the center, and fall asleep on its sides with a new substrate. Then water the flower and put it in a permanent place.

Transplanting soil replacement step by step

If the reason for the transplant lies in the painful condition of the flower, for example, suspicion of rotting of the roots appeared, the violet urgently needs to be transplanted into another pot by completely replacing the old earth with a new one. Replanting with full soil replacement is also used for adult plants. The advantage of this method is that freeing the root system from the soil, you inspect its roots, remove the sick and damaged. Also remove the lower leaves of rosettes and old flower stalks. We will tell you how to do this in order:

first moisten the substrate in an old pot with violet to make it easier to remove it from there;
prepare a suitable size pot. If you are using an old one, clean it well from salt deposits on the walls and disinfect;
put a layer of expanded clay or other drainage material on the bottom, also pretreated with manganese or boiling water;
put a layer of new substrate on the drainage with a slide in the center of the pot;
free the root system from the old substrate and carefully examine it;
remove rotten and damaged roots; powder wounds with crushed activated charcoal; for serious injuries, treat healthy roots with a root rot fungicide;
place the violet root system in the new pot in the center and fill it with a new substrate to the lower leaflets, shaking the pot slightly so that the soil fills all the voids inside;
leave the treated and transplanted plant in partial shade for a day. During this time the violet will get used to the new place of residence a little, its wounds will be tightened. Now the flower can be watered with the addition of some fungicide from root rot. If necessary, if the stem is bare, add a little more soil.

Transplantation with partial replacement of the soil is carried out mainly for young violets. It is assumed that they need to be transplanted into a slightly larger pot. And in this case, the transplantation takes place in a manner similar to the previous method, only the soil is shaken off only by the one that falls off. All that was kept together with the root system is placed in a new pot and filled with fresh substrate.

Trimming Violets

Sometimes, trim the leaves of violet is not only possible but necessary. Let's start with the fact that the rosette room violet should look nice, proportionate and consist of approximately three rows of leaves. The center of growth and development of Saintpaulia should not be overgrown with foliage.

If this happens to you, then simply remove the lower leaves that have already begun to turn yellow and do not seem to be completely alive. It is easy to pick off the leaves of the violet from the stem correctly, just press with a fingernail at the base, and then twist all the unwanted leaf completely. If there are several such leaves, and as a result of such actions, the trunk has become bare at the flower, then you can add fresh soil on top of the soil or transplant the flower deeper into the new nutritious soil.

Trim violets do the same in the following cases:

to remove excess leaves to induce lush bloom stimulation;
to remove the top of the old violet for its rejuvenation - on the remaining hemp after a certain time there will be kids that you use to propagate your specimen;
to remove diseased leaves so that the disease does not spread to healthy ones.

What to do with violet after flowering

During flowering, faded flower stalks should be regularly removed from the plant so that they do not interfere with the flowering of new buds and do not spoil the appearance of the blooming violet. When the last flower blooms, let the plant rest. Cut off damaged, diseased or dried leaves. Take care of restoring the vitality of a well-working violet - tear off the lower rows of leaves at the outlet, transplant it into a new pot with nutritious mixture. If you do not have this event scheduled, start feeding the flower again with fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogenous components, so that the violet starts to grow new leaves, instead of dangling you.

How to care for violet in winter

In winter, the main treatments for violet are:

Good illumination of the flower with fluorescent or fluorescent lamps up to 12-14 hours a day, alternating with dark time of day up to 8 hours.
Maintaining the ambient temperature in the room at least 20 ° C, without sharp fluctuations in one direction or another, without drafts during ventilation.
Regular moderate watering with warm water up to three times a week.
The increased air humidity in the room where your Saintpaulia lives. All ways to increase the humidity are welcome - household appliances, containers with water, trays with wet claydite, wet towels on all batteries and other tricks that you come up with.
On cold window sills under pots of violets should be thick, at least 3 cm thick, plastic or wooden coasters that protect the roots of the flower from hypothermia.
Violet leaves should not touch cold glass windows, watch this.

Conclusion

We are sure that taking care of these lovely plants you will get a lot of pleasure. Grateful violets will be several times a year to please you with magnificent blooms. If your windowsills are lined with pots with different varieties of violets, then your house will be filled with a powerful positive aura. After all, the delicate aroma of flowers stabilizes heart rhythms and has a beneficial effect on the mental state not only of the owner of this magnificence, but also on all members of his family. If you have mastered the rules of care for this beautiful flower, we recommend to read.

Having decided to start breeding violets, it is important to study the characteristics of the plant, as well as to study information about the rules of its cultivation. If you are accustomed to approaching any business with enthusiasm, relying on scientific experience, you will need other knowledge as well. For example, where and how do violets grow, what are their species differences, how do they get new varieties and hybrid varieties. Rod Violet ( Viola) belongs to the family Viola (Violaceae) and has, according to various classifications, from 400 to 500 species, as well as many subspecies and varieties of small, mostly herbaceous plants. How the violet flower looks like, how to choose the right plant in the store and a lot of other useful information and tips you will get by reading this informative article.

Where the violets grow in nature and what the flowers look like: description with photo and video

The habitat of violets is very wide: from the Arctic and temperate zones of the Northern Hemisphere to Tierra del Fuego, the Cape region and the Falkland Islands in the south. They can be found in Eurasia, America, Africa, Australia and New Zealand. In the subtropical and tropical areas, violets were chosen mostly by mountainous areas, climbing to an altitude of 4,600 meters above sea level (in Peru and Bolivia). About 115 species of these plants grow in Russia and neighboring countries.

To get started, read the description of how violets look in the wild. Most of these representatives of the flora are perennial, rarely annual herbs or semi-evergreen or deciduous subshrubs with a low leafy, sometimes creeping stem. Sometimes violets look like stemless plants with a rosette of leaves. The leaves are alternate, simple, whole or lobed, in some species pubescent, with stipules. Flowers solitary, often with long peduncles, located in the axils of the leaves, bisexual. Consist of five sepals, five petals, five stamens and pistils. Small sepals, similar to small leaves, do not fade for a long time, framing first the buds, then the flowers, and after the wilting of the petals - the ripening box. See what violets look like on these photos:

Petals form an irregular (zygomorphic) halo, the lower petal of which is larger than the others, sometimes has a spur or a bag-like outgrowth at the base. The color of the petals, depending on the species, is white, blue, purple, yellow, variegated, and in many varieties it can be monochromatic or multicolored. As seen in the photo, sometimes the violet flower looks like a rainbow:

The fruit is a dry tricuspid boll that bursts when ripe, often spreading numerous seeds around itself at a distance of up to 5.5 m:

Violets can grow in a variety of conditions. Some species grow in shady places - forests, bushes, gorges of mountains, others prefer open, sunny meadows, mountain slopes and hills. Some require wet, sometimes swampy soils, while others feel at ease in the dry wastelands. Violets in nature can grow on sandy seaside dunes, as well as in steppes, prairies and even semi-deserts. High-altitude species growing in the Andes on extensive scree, perfectly tolerate drought, and the strong summer heat, and very low winter temperatures. Even the appearance of these violets, with small, numerous, gravelly leaves, forming dense rosettes, is completely unlike the viols we are used to, more reminiscent of a young one.

When describing violets, it is often said that this flower forms a rosette or leaflet of leaves, over which numerous medium-sized buds are lifted on long, up to 20 cm peduncles.

Where species of violets grow in nature, originating from temperate zones, the soil is always nutritious, moist and loose soil. These plants prefer both sunny and semi-shady places. Bloom in spring and in the first half of summer. In the hot period, in some species, the flowers become smaller and flowering stops, and with the onset of wet cool weather, it resumes. Here you can enjoy photos of violet flowers in their natural habitat:

Most species of violets are cross-pollinating plants, and only some (for example, field violet) are self-pollinating.

To prevent self-pollination, many species have various devices: various outgrowths, stiff hairs, the spatial separation of the anthers and stigmas of the pistil, etc.

Violet flowers are pollinated by a variety of insects, to attract which the flowers secrete nectar, which accumulates in the spur on the lower petal. Some species of violets can be pollinated only by certain types of insects.

So, sportive violetoriginally from the Alps, has such a long spur (13-25 mm long) that it can pollinate only some species of hawk moths, and the violet is a two-flower, with a short thick spur (only 2-3 mm long), it is mainly pollinated by flies.

A very interesting fact about violets is that insects contribute not only to the pollination of these flowers, but also to the spread of their seeds. In the process of how the violets grow and their seeds ripen, special oily juicy growths, called oily bodies, or eliosomes, are formed on them.

It is these seeds, fallen or scattered from the boxes, that the ants are looking for, and then they are spread to some distance from the mother plants. Moreover, the germination of seeds, the peel of which was gnawed by the jaws of ants, is significantly increased. Seeds, on which there are no eliosomes, do not touch the ants. In addition to ants, viral seeds in nature can be spread by birds, lizards, deer, goats, and some other animals, and in a number of species - by rain or river water.

The diameter of the flowers in violets can be from 0.6 cm (in some natural species) to 12 cm (in the large-color varieties of Vittrok violet). After watching this video, you will get a lot of interesting information about violets:

The history of the origin of violets and the selection of a flower in different countries (with photo)

Violets were the favorites of many nations from ancient times, so it is quite natural to assume that in ancient times people not only admired this flower, but also tried to grow it near their homes. Unfortunately, accurate information about the history of the cultivation of violets has not reached our days, but the legends say that the fashion for violets was so great that they grew their huge plantations around ancient Athens and Rome.

The number of plantations with violets was so great that even Pliny complained that it would have been better for the Romans to plant fields with olive groves than useless flowers.

Most likely, here we are talking about the history of origin fragrant violets ( V. odorata) , because in those days there were not yet large multicolored,

Species Wittrock

Pansies ( F. x wittrockiana)

The main advantage of these plants was their wondrous fragrance.

From the Romans love for violets passed to the Italians. In the Middle Ages a large-flowered terry variety of violet fragrant was created in Parma - parma violet ( V. odorata var. parmensis) which was used mainly as an aromatic plant. In 1870, on the basis of her flowers in France, the famous perfume “Vera Violetta” was created, which are still produced today.

Other species of violets, apparently, were introduced to the culture much later violet fragrant. Thus, the tricolor violet flower is known from the history of the cultivation of garden plants in the first half of the 16th century.

One of the first attempts to make U. tricolor common in home gardens was undertaken by the German botanist Joachim Camerius the Younger, as well as Prince William of Hesse-Kassel, who lived at the end of the XVI century. The first complete botanical description of this flower also belongs to this time. In the 17th century, Vandergren, a gardener of the Prince of Orange, began to pay particular attention to the tricolor violet. He brought 5 varieties, which can rightly be considered the ancestors of cultivated pansies. In 1819, Lady Mary Bennett, daughter of Count Tankerville, became interested in violin.

Her gardener, William Richard, sowed the whole garden and the whole terrace of the Tankervili Castle in Walton (England) with pansies, and then began to collect seeds from the largest and most beautiful specimens and sow them again.

As a result, wonderful varieties were soon created, which attracted the attention of many flower lovers and made the pansies favorite gardeners. However, the main triumph of the selection of violets was still ahead. In the 1830s, i.e. 15 years after the experiments of William Richard and Mary Bennet, the tricolor violet was crossed with the European large-flowered violet yellow ( V. lutea) , violet horned ( V. cornuta) known in culture since the end of the 18th century (it was first mentioned as a cultivated plant in 1776), and altai violet ( V. altaica) , brought to Europe at the beginning of the XIX century.

Many hybrid forms were obtained. An interesting fact: such violets were so different from the original species that they were allocated to a new species - Vittrok violet. In 1835, Charles Darwin counted more than 400 forms of this species, among which there were specimens with velvety and satin flowers, similar to modern varieties.

These photos show how different kinds of violet flowers look like:

A significant number of species of violets were introduced to the culture in the XX century due to the emergence of the fashion for rock gardens and alpine plants. In addition, some species are widely used in natural style gardens, especially shady ones.

In the history of Russian gardening, the first mention of violets dates back to the 17th century. According to the famous botanist Arnold Regel, at that time, the gardens were decorated with the most unpretentious flowers taken from nature, including violets.

In the following centuries, cultural exchange established between Russia and European countries also affected gardening. Russia began to receive whole collections of ornamental plants, widely distributed in parks and gardens. At the beginning of the XX century N.F. Zolotnitsky wrote about the hundreds of varieties of pansies that adorn our gardens, the most interesting of these violets he called ‘Emperor Wilhelm’ with variegated flowers and ‘Germany’ with twisting petals.

In Soviet times, in the urban and garden landscaping, the main place was also occupied by Vittroke violet. Famous flower scientist G.Е. In 1954, Kiselev wrote about a huge number of varieties of this species belonging to two main groups - grandiflora and giant.

Of the other types of violets, he mentions only three: fragrant violet, horned violet and purple violet. These photos show the results of the selection of violets:

In recent decades, in Russia, as in many other countries of the world, interest in the introduction of new species and the creation of original varieties based on them has sharply increased. Not bypassed this process and violets. Descriptions of new species of violets introduced into culture began to appear in the literature.

Thus, in the well-known reference book of ornamental garden plants, E.S. and N.A. Aksenovs (2000) describes 8 species of violets used in gardening, and the encyclopedia of garden trees, shrubs and flowers of the British Royal Society of Gardeners 1999 published a description of 21 types of viols.

Recently, a new hybrid look has appeared in the catalogs - williams Violet ( V-. x williamsii) as well as a large number of hybrid varieties of perennial violets, whose pedigree is extremely difficult to determine. After reviewing the photo and description of violets, you need to get an idea of how to choose plants when buying:

Buying Violet Flowers: How to Choose Perennial Crop Plants

Currently, florists are not faced with the problem of buying violet seeds or finished planting material (unless, of course, we are not talking about rare varieties or few species used in culture).

It is only necessary to figure out which species are suitable for the conditions of your garden and which varieties will be most successfully combined in habit and color with other participants in one or another flower arrangement.

Perennial flowers of violets are most often available in the store and garden centers in the form of ready-made planting material: well-developed plants (often flowering) grown in plastic containers or pots.

When buying such plants, pay attention to the label indicating the species and its basic requirements for the cultivation conditions. In the absence of such data, contact the sellers for clarification or look through the catalog of this company or other reference literature.

Before you buy a violet, pay attention that the plants are not faded, yellowed, so that there are no spots on the leaves and other traces of diseases or pests.

If, after buying plants in containers, you do not have the opportunity to immediately plant them in a permanent place, then put them in a shaded place and water moderately until planting. Some species of perennial plants of violets can be purchased from flower growers, plant collectors or in botanical gardens. In such cases, as a rule, bushes or delenki (part of the bush) with an open root system are acquired, so it is important to take into account the phase of plant development.

For the most part, perennial violets tolerate dividing the bushes and transplanting throughout the growing season, but the most favorable for transplanting are the period at which leaves begin to grow in the spring (mid-April) and the second half of summer, after the flowering and seed ripening. How to choose such violets? When acquiring such plants, it is necessary to make sure that the soil in which the excavated plants sit is moist and the leaves are not faded. All shoots should have a well-developed root lobe.

Delenki must be immediately packed in plastic bags or boxes and watered moderately, not allowing the roots to dry. Such planting material should be planted as soon as possible into the ground.

Some types of viola between sowing seeds and the emergence of seedlings take a long time, so if you have a seedling still a month after sowing, do not be discouraged and do not throw the soil out of the sowing box, but just have patience.

Sometimes in the shops you can buy seeds of some species. If you are already familiar with the description of plants of violets, carefully read the recommendations for their cultivation, since the seeds of some species need to create special conditions for planting: stratification (freezing), scarification (disturbance of the seed coat), etc.

Often, lovers of herbaceous plants dig up their favorite violets directly from "nature." Many environmentalists and botanists categorically do not recommend doing this in order not to impoverish the wild nature.

If you still decide to transfer a plant from a forest or meadow to a garden, do it carefully, taking it in places of significant accumulation of this species, and in very small quantities, so as not to disturb the ecological system prevailing in this place.

Then you will get tips on choosing one-year-old two-year violets.

How to buy annual and biennial garden flowers violets

Buy seeds or planting material such species as Vittrok violet or horned violet, currently does not present any difficulties. In any garden center, shop or tent you will be offered a whole set of seeds or already given species with all sorts of flower colorings. What to choose?

First of all, decide what suits you best: purchase seeds and grow seedlings from them or buy ready-made planting material. The first way of buying annual or biennial violets is cheaper and more interesting for many fans, but rather laborious and requires certain skills and conditions.

When buying seeds of cultivated plants of violets, be sure to pay attention not only to the picture and the bright advertising inscription on the bag, but also to the characteristics of this variety. On packages with seeds should be indicated: the name of the crop (in Russian and in Latin), the variety (if it is a certain variety, not species), shelf life, germination, the number of seeds in a package (in pieces or grams).

Carefully read the description of the appearance of plants: their size, color of flowers, because it may not coincide with the color of the flowers depicted on the package.

When purchasing seeds of garden flowers of violets, also note that these are varieties or heterotic hybrids. The name of the latter must contain the symbol “F,”. From the seeds of such hybrids, the most qualitative, leveled planting material is obtained, however, the price of hybrid seeds is much higher than ordinary varietal ones. If you do not have the ability or desire to grow your own seedlings of ornamental plants of violets, then you can purchase flowering plants that are ready for planting in almost any flower market.

Of course, it is much better to purchase seedlings with a closed root system grown in pots or cassettes. Such seedlings take root more easily after transplantation into the soil, it is easier to transport and it can be stored for a considerable time before planting in a cool, shade from direct sunlight. In addition, buying already blooming seedlings, you can immediately see its varietal quality: the habit of plants, color and size of flowers.

When buying cartridges with seedlings viola pay attention to the plants were not stretched. Qualitative seedlings should have the form of a compact bush with one or several flowers, or large buds.

You should not buy plants with long shoots, at the ends of which there are relatively small flowers (unless, of course, this is not the variety of ampella violas) - you can hardly create a beautiful flower garden from such plants. When purchasing a cassette with pansies, carefully examine it. All plants in a cassette must be well developed, i.e. be approximately the same size, be strong, not lethargic, with bright green leaves and buds or flowers and a moist earthy clod.

In addition, they should not have signs of disease (ie, no rotting or dry spots, moldy plaque, blackened areas on leaves or stems) or pests (on pedicels, buds or the underside of leaves, you can sometimes notice an aphids or whitefly , and whitish or cobwebbing on the leaves may indicate plant damage by ticks and thrips). Also check that the plants are in all cells of the cassette. To do this, gently push the bushes in the middle of the cassette, and if you find empty cells or very weak, underdeveloped plants (which happens quite often) - ask the seller to replace them. These photos show violet plants in cassettes:

Pansies perfectly tolerate transplanting, even in flowering condition. In some flower markets in the spring, you can still find grandmothers selling old-fashioned viola seedlings with a bare root system, bundled together in several bundles and wrapped in a damp newspaper or film.

The cost of such seedlings, as a rule, is much lower than that sold in cassettes, and the flowers look very large and attractive.

If you decide to buy such planting material, ask them to unfold the bag and inspect the plants: the roots should be in a small lump of moist soil, and on the stems and leaves should not be noticeable damage to diseases or pests. Try as soon as possible to plant the plants in the ground, water them well during planting and in sunny weather for a few days to lighten with lutrasil or paper for better survival.

What are the seeds of violets and how to prepare them (with photos) To obtain seeds of violets, use the following tips. Only large ones should be plucked, most of the varieties have brightened boxes, which have already turned upwards on the stalk, if the boxes are directed downwards - the seeds have not yet ripened in them. During mass ripening, seeds are collected at least 2-3 times a week. Dry the testes in a dry room at a temperature of 25-30 ° C. The torn boxes are laid out in a thin layer in linen or gauze bags or in boxes, always covered with paper or cloth on top (when dried, the bolls crack, scattering seeds far around). After complete drying, the heap is gently rubbed with the hands and sifted seeds are sieved through a sieve, and then they are blown clean in the wind or rolled back on a plate. Look like the violets in these photos:

In order to get high-quality varietal seeds of pansies, one must keep in mind that this view is cross-pollinated, therefore the distance between different varieties must be at least 500 m.

Of course, it is impossible to observe such spatial isolation at the dacha, and it doesn’t matter if you want to get a population with different colors of flowers. But if you want to propagate a particular variety, then it is better to plant it in a separate area, if not 500 m from other varieties, then at least behind the house or garden.

At the same time, it is also necessary to take into account the neighbors, who may also be lovers of pansies and plant them on their plots. It is necessary to collect seeds only from healthy and most typical plants for this variety. If you are going to harvest seeds from any sample, be sure to note whether it is a variety or heterotic F1 hybrid. The latter are often well-tied seeds, but you will not get high-quality, high-grade material.

Many types of viola well pereopilyatsya among themselves. Therefore, when engaged in seed production, it is necessary to carefully weed out wild-growing field violet around it and not plant other varieties of violets next to it.

And finally - another collection of photos of different types of violet flowers:

In contact with

Violets have a surprisingly long history. They were grown in ancient Greece. Scientists have found evidence that the flowers were known before our era. Purple inflorescences were considered a symbol of tender love. Petals were added to the wine, decorated dishes. Centuries have passed - the attitude towards flowers has not changed. They are just as popular as many centuries ago.

Violets - a perennial plant, it can be found in natural conditions, engaged in growing houses. Varieties have similar characteristics of the structure, allowing to consider them as a single group with diverse varieties. There are about a thousand species.

Ordinary. The petals are arranged in one row, the pattern is clear, properly delineated.
Terry. Petals are arranged in several rows, one above one.
Semi-double.In the center, incompletely formed petals are formed, giving extra budding splendor.

Plants can be monophonic, painted in one particular tone, without pattern and pattern. Others have fancy color mixed colors. Bright lines, stripes, blotches, specks adorn the petals.

Types of violets (video)

Structural features

Common and common varieties in the structure of the root. It is strong, voluminous and woody. Other features:

shortened stem;
dense leaves;
basal greens and peduncle;
leaves are rounded;
buds consist of 5 petals.

The structure of violets allows them to be of different sizes: miniature, medium and large. Moreover, this applies to inflorescences and foliage.

Flowering period

Pleasing owners start in the spring. At this time, the first buds appear. Gradually, the violet is covered with a pattern from which it is difficult to look away. Flowering lasts until late autumn. Then the flowers form seed boxes. Grains will help reproduce your favorite type.

Purple inflorescences were considered a symbol of tender love

Purple varieties of room violets

Purple color is unusual for the flowering of domestic plants. The gentle tone is beautiful and gentle. Violets such a palette is always liked by lovers of home beauty. The most prominent species of this color are the following plants:

Currant dessert. The shape of the inflorescences is similar with asterisks. Along the edges of the petals is a thin fringe of a darker blue tone. Stamens bright yellow. The general background resembles blackcurrant jam.
Winter rose Externally, the plant resembles a bouquet under the frost. The snowy outlines and colors have the middle of roses and not yet blooming buds. Small petals are revealed in a rose, the edges have a delicate white fringe: purple with a white border.
Baltika. Semi-double has a feature. The socket becomes quite large, the petals have jagged edges. The color is hard to describe. It seems that a shadow falls on the light purple leaves, which blurs the main palette.
LE - Saturn's rings. Large-sized flowers open and clear in shape inflorescences. All details of the bud are visible. Feature - in the rim of a lighter tone. The main shade is lilac.
Baltschug Abner. The classic forms of petals have two tones - blue and pink, merging them gives the sun a purple hue of delicate warm tones.
Blue watercolor. Terry buds have an interesting color. Violet brushstrokes are casually applied on a white base. They do not have a clear picture, creating an original cap of bright colors.

Gallery: types of violets (58 photos)

Popular varieties of white room violets

Snow-white varieties create grace, bring purity and innocence to the house. Compositions touches, soothe and make a special kind of peace and tenderness.

Bells ireland. The flower has a gently white background and regular shape. Semi-double buds look like bells. The edges of the stars are painted in a light green tone. Butonchiki compact and very simple in appearance. Pedicle long, white stars rise high above the dense green leaves.
Alice Blizzard Baths. Small white inflorescences are star-shaped. Against the background of leaves in the shape of hearts, their magnificent forms look attractive. I would like to carefully consider each shape of a white star.
Snow lace. Terry white inflorescences creates a snowdrift. In the center of each bluish touch, a small soft spot. On closer inspection, you can see a green tint, it seems that this is a reflection of the leaves, but in fact this is the color of the petals.
The bride's bouquet. Gentle lush white stars are framed with wavy edges. Perfect purity of white tone explains the name of the violet. On it except the yellow hearts there are no other reflections and patterns.
YAN Caprice. The cap looks like white foam harmoniously combined with variegated leaves, which have terry edges.

How to care for violets (video)

What are pink and red violets?

Coral, crimson, cherry violets will find their place in any interior. They will be bright spots among the bright warm colors. Red flowers are similar in palette with wine, fruit and berries.

Georgia. Variety of magical beauty of fabulous creatures. Along the edges of the pink petals are a subtle fringe of green. It turns out an extraordinary light of gold, glitter, and sunshine. In front of the golden edges there is a clear border of purple tone. Peduncles powerful, so the bud is strong and voluminous.
Queen Sabrina. Terry variety has a volumetric shape with ruffles on the petals. In the middle of the sheet is a blue stripe, which divides into two parts or draws pale strips.
Marquis. The buds are delicate with a clear, pronounced pattern. The edging of two tones: the edges are white, and the frames of the petals are dark blue. The main color is soft pink.
Cinnamon ruffles. Wavy buds dark red and bright. The color is shaded by white edges and narrow fringe. Inflorescences adjoin each other with a dense carpet. The foliage is dark, practical gray, so the red tone becomes even brighter.
Magdalene. Terry sockets are ball-shaped. Twisted petals create a voluminous bouquet of delicate pink hues that are the same throughout the ball.
Hot Spot. Bright inflorescences cover the greens with a dense ball. The edges of the petals are finely striated and wavy.
Rs-god of the sun. The sort is similar to cherry. Delicate red leaves are combined in a single bouquet with white edging edges.

Georgia

Beautiful varieties of terry violets

Terry violets differ in the form of petals. They have unusual lush endings of flower buds. Wavy and fluffed edges create a terry, softness and uncertainty of clear outlines. Flowers look like one lush incomprehensible bud volumes. Among the varieties there are popular, often chosen by housewives. Sorts of terry violets:

EC-Nautilus. Semi-double variety of tender color of the summer sky. White shades merge with blue. The blue stripes move from the center and end with waves of white petal endings. The grade is unpretentious, does not demand special conditions for cultivation. Author - E.Korshunova.
AV-Karamelki. The variety is semi-double and terry. By coloring - striped. Crimson, white, purple stripes are changing. The picture is very effective.
Spring rose. The snow-white terry violet blooms so abundant that on the green leaves it resembles a delicate bridal bouquet.
Silver Romance. The variety is multicolored, and the shades are so contrasting that it seems they cannot be combined on one petal. Against the background of dark leaves, the light green fringe looks amazing. In the center of the terry flower buds are white and pink colors.
Rosemary. Terry beauty has an unusual color: on a delicate white background, strokes of ardent pink tone are carelessly applied and blue colors are splashed.

EC Nautilus

Types of violets of unusual color

Other varieties of violets have a gentle unusual color. These include such colors:

Lilac

Lilac beauty comparable to bouquets made from soft fabric or corrugated paper. Yellow hearts brightly dazzled on a soft blanket of petals.
Favorite daughter. Saturated shade close to emeralds. Sockets give shine, it seems to cover the petals with small drops of dew. Small inflorescences darker mature. This combination is very beautiful.

Variegated

Lemon snow. Original in the form of not only the buds, but the leaves. They are speckled with white patches and bright snow-white edging. Inflorescences are snowy, and lemon shade comes from the stamens.
Villodene. The leaves are even whiter. Green tone remains very little. Emerald pink flowers are similar in color to early peaches.
Chimera. On a purple basis, bright white chamomile patterns. You can describe the pattern in a different way: bright stars in the dark night sky.

Villodene

Indoor violets in the interior of the apartment

Violets are the most popular home plants. They transform the interior of the house. The use options are many. Each variety makes its own nuance. Fancy patterns and unusual color shades allow you to choose them for any style of home. Variants of use in the interior:

Flower beds: different varieties are placed nearby and create a lake of flowering plants;
Strict location: for pots create certain places of staging, elevation. Then the violet will set off all other interior items, create islands of bright mood.
Traditional: on the windowsills. Cache-pots are placed side by side, one after another, getting flower borders of window openings.
Hanging decorations: they may be located to separate certain zones, to select entrances, places of rest.

Violets are suitable for office space, living rooms, offices. This is not just a decoration. Queen of colors are elegant, elegant, fancy and fabulously interesting. Care at home varies depending on the variety, but most types of unpretentious. Even a small family member can take care of them. Care will make your baby kind, gentle and caring.

Violets are the most popular home plants.

There are few plant varieties that are similar in appearance to violets. You can list some of them:

Gloxinia. The analogy is noticeable in the form of inflorescences, their color and location on the foliage. The difference is in the structure of the leaf, the cut of the bud and the structure of the pistil. Great proximity to terry species.
Primrose. Outdoor plants are bright and lush. They are similar in arrangement of petals, but their shape is somewhat different. The primrose flower is flat and wide open, as if smoothed.
Ahimenez. Blue flowers surprise with tenderness. Distinguished foliage, it is shallow and uneven at the edges.
Petunia. The large number of colors and the shape of small inflorescences bring together the appearance of violets.
Dacun Blue bells are somewhat elongated, like violets, similar to the tenderness and structure of the inflorescence.

All plants that look like violets are similar in some way: leaves, buds, pattern, color. But in general, the violet is peculiar and unique.

Secrets of growing violets (video)

Marvelous flower decorates the home and the fate of different parts of the world. Their variety is impossible to list. Breeders are constantly creating new varieties. Finding a flower that is even more popular and loved is almost impossible.

Attention, only TODAY!

The most popular among indoor flowering plants are flowers Violets. A variety of varieties allows you to find the only instance that will take possession of the heart of the owner for life. Or you can collect a collection of flowers, selecting according to an arbitrary interesting feature: the shape or color of flowers, leaves, sizes of rosettes.

There are clubs that unite fans of Violets. They include experienced flower growers, beginners, and amateurs without wards. Varieties of Saintpaulia (the second name) are displayed in a variety, and the work is still ongoing.

Species description

In a rich assortment of room representatives, definitely directed varietal features are divided. You can select several directions among the signs.

Rosette standards. Separate category are ampelous (trailer) Violets. The rest are divided by outlet diameter. Presented by five groups:

Standard large collects individuals, with indicators from forty to 60 centimeters.
Standard more modest. There are already individuals, ranging in size from twenty measuring units.
Midi include representatives with a 15-centimeter size at the lower boundary of the aforementioned group.
Mini limited to one and a half dozen centimeters.
Micro smallest available varietal room violets. Their diameters are not more than six centimeters.

Leaf forms. All sorts of outlines and external characteristics of leaves are collected in this direction. From oval to elongated shapes, with varying degrees of omission, the distinctive lines of the edges of sheet plates (from solid edges to corrugated).

Leafy color. The color scheme for the upper part of the leaf blade is very diverse. Starting from all shades of green and reaching almost black tones. In addition, there may be colored streaks and specks similar to splashes. The lower part is not inferior in diversity. White, purple, purple. As monophonic, and with color spots.

Flower structure. Varietal landmarks of domestic Violets are delimited by the classical, star-shaped, bell-shaped petal arrangement. There are also such specimens in which the petals are elongated, hemispherical arrangement. At the same time there are for almost all types such forms as terry, semi-double, simple. Bell-shaped do not have double flowers.

Flower palette. Features of the variety in this case imply monochromatic floral colors, doubled in shade or in color, multi-color variants. Often found with single or double border, spots, rays, peas.

Violets homemade

Among the numerous representatives of domestic Violets, the following groups of varietal specimens are most common:

Red (lat. Violaceus rubrum). Long leaf leaves are ovate, rounded or oval in outline. Velvety, with differently painted sides. The outer part varies from light to dark green. The reverse side can be either green, light shade or violet.

Flowers are placed in groups of five, seven pieces on one peduncle. Long flowering period (from eight months). The color palette is widely represented by an impressive spectrum: wine, coral, maroon, ruby, purple and raspberry color.

White (lat. Violaceus album). Prefers shading. Cultivated as a perennial indoor and garden plants. Bushes grow to a quarter of a meter in height. Reproduction effectively daughter outlets, which are formed in large quantities.

The triangular heart-shaped leaves are green or darker in tone. Flowers are arranged singly on 15-cm peduncles. Large sizes, thick terry, bloom for one and a half months in cool conditions since May.

Blue (lat. Violaceus hyacintho). Strongly branched plant can stretch up to forty centimeters. The shape of the crown is semi-sprawling. Dark leaves ovoid or oval, narrowed in the upper part, are located on the petioles.

The flowers are formed in the leaf sinuses one by one. The diameter reaches up to one ten centimeters. The corolla consists of five petals wavy along the edge. The variety of colors is represented by monotonous variations from sky blue to sapphire purple, and variegated patches and divorces on the basic tone.

In the home maintenance of Saintpaulia, water treatment takes the last place to maintain the brightness and decorativeness of the flower. Covered with dust, p asthenia needs to be laundered under low water pressureset at room temperature. Before returning to the place, it is necessary to give Violet time to discuss the foliage in a warm place.

Place for Violets

In terms of room placement, Eastern and Western windows are excellent. Acceptable use and northern directions. Arrangement on the south side will require the protection of the plant from the resulting sunlight.

In the case of growing a large number of Saintpaulus, it is appropriate to organize certain spaces for maintenance and care. The rack equipped with additional illumination will become the successful decision.

Shine

Violet light-loving flower, however, does not tolerate direct daytime sunlight. Morning and evening hits are allowed. For even development, it is necessary to turn the plant to the light area, changing sides every three, four days.

When directed and stretching up the leaves and cuttings requires additional lighting. Under existing conditions, the flower is dark. Light day is needed for up to 14 hours throughout the year. Rest periods at Saintpaulia are not provided.

Temperature

Successful is the temperature regime within a little above two dozen warm degrees. Raising, as well as lowering the indicators, has a bad effect on the development and condition of the indoor flower.

So, + 15 ° lower thresholds, stepped over which Violet stops in growth and does not develop. Should protect the ward from drafts and sudden temperature changes (the plant is able to get sick).

Humidity

Watering

An important component of care is regular watering. When watering all individuals at the same time, the need for hydration is able to prompt a specimen with long leaf petioles. Water all the plants will need to start lowering the leaves of the control sample.

Otherwise, watering is carried out when almost the entire soil substrate is dried. Water used is well settled. or passed filtering. Temperature must be at room temperature. A bad idea is to use distilled water.

It is actively absorbed salt washed out of the ground (both harmful and useful), which adversely affects the nutrition of Saintpaulia. There are two ways to water:

Upper - moistening is carried out by means of basal watering. It should be carried out carefully, preventing water from entering the leaf surfaces and the growing point. After waiting for about a quarter of an hour, the excess water, collected in the pan, is drained.
Lower - A better way to plant health. True, it takes a little more time than the previous version. The container with the ward is placed in a container filled with water to a level above the middle of the pot, without pouring over its edge.

By wetting the soil surface, the vessel with a flower is removed from the water, allowed to drain to excess, set in a permanent place. A necessary condition for any watering is not a wet condition of the soil, but a wet one.

Irrigation mode is formed on the basis of warming the air in the house and the composition of the soil. On average, with top watering, repetitions are carried out up to two times a week. At the bottom - with a break of one and a half weeks.

Priming

The use of a universal primer for flowers (for example, Terra Vita) is acceptable. Interestingly, the specialized ready-made substrate for indoor violets is not suitable for all members of this species. Help in the implementation of quality care is a homemade mix. Its composition is simple:

Humus (one part).
Sand (also quantity).
Leaf land (two parts).
Land sod (half portion).
Bonemeal and superphosphate are added to the mixed substrate at the rate of half a glass and a tablespoon per bucket (10 liters), respectively.

The resulting land complies with the requirements as applied to the Saintpaulias. Namely: nourishing, loose, well absorbing water and passing air.

Fertilizer

Home care for the flower provides and tracking the need to feed the ward. In most cases, the use of fertilizers is not strictly necessary. Nutrition is quite enough when regular transplants are carried out (on average, once a year). When applying fertilizers, it is better to choose in liquid form..

In water for irrigation add half the recommended dosage (glut is more dangerous than a disadvantage). To carry out the watering process is better in the lower way. Regularity is maintained once with a pass of one and a half to three weeks. For juvenile growth, the need arises for the nitrogen component, while bud formation and flowering require the addition of phosphorus.

Transfer

The beginning of the process is the selection of the optimum capacity for<переселенца>. Both ceramic and plastic are equally good. A rich selection of plastic products has gained great popularity among fans of Violets. Price plays a role with proper quality.

Having decided on the material, comes the turn of the size selection. The general condition for choosing for all adult individuals is as follows: the diameter of the pot is one third of the diameter of the plant. Juveniles are seated in containers up to six centimeters in diameter. The transplant process proceeds in the following order:

At the bottom of the selected tank, the drainage layer is poured. Suitable claydite, crumbled foam, vermiculite. The thickness is at least one third of the capacity.
On top is placed several small pieces of charcoal. It has disinfectant properties.
A small amount of substrate is poured directly onto the resulting layers. Violet is placed by the method of transshipment (with an old earthen clod). Radical neck falls three centimeters below the edge of the vessel.
The voids are filled with the remaining soil with light shaking off (to fill the entire free volume).
At the end of the earthworks, the soil is watered.

Engage in a transfer procedure preferably in March. Adult specimens often do not require the replacement of capacity. Replacement of the soil is recommended every year. During flowering, the plant is better not to disturb. The sharp need for transplant involves the removal of all flower stalks to alleviate the stress state of the flower.

Breeding methods

Obtaining new copies is possible in three ways: seed, leaf cutting and additionally formed rosettes (children). Vegetative methods are very similar to each other. A sufficient idea of reproduction can be seen in one of them.

Seeds

The most difficult method of reproduction among existing. Justified in the case of the only method of reproduction. Small transparent container filled with perlite or certain layers of different components in a given sequence (fine fractional sand, sphagnum moss, nutritious soil).

Do not forget about the very basis - drainage. In this embodiment, charcoal will serve well. At the end, the prepared land is leveled and watered. Sowing takes place in small grooves, on the surface with a mixture of seeds and sand.

A mini-hothouse is being equipped with daily ventilation and spraying of the soil surface. The picking is allowed during the development phase of the third and fourth true leaf in individual pots.

Cuttings

Simple and less troublesome reproduction by rooting a leaf with a part of the stem is up to 4 centimeters. You can post with the same result in a jar of boiled water, and in any water-absorbing substrate. Care is to maintain a temperature of +22 degrees (two degrees is acceptable in any direction).

The appearance of young stock is after a month and a half. Fortified<малюток> settled in personalized packaging. The adaptation period is carried out all in the same mini-greenhouse, lasting 3 weeks.