Plum tree in the garden plots of Russian gardeners is quite common. But regular abundant harvests are not possible without proper care of it. One of the important components of agricultural technology is pruning. Plum is more compact than, for example, a pear or apple tree, but is prone to thickening the crown. Such trees look very untidy, their productivity decreases sharply, favorable conditions are created for the development of diseases and pest attacks.

Why prune pruning

Many gardeners believe that, due to the small height and dimensions of the crown, the drain does not need to be pruned. But in fact, for this culture, this is one of the most important agricultural practices. A well-conducted procedure prolongs the productive period of the tree’s life, positively affects frost resistance and immunity, provides abundant fruiting. The crown of the plum thickens quite quickly, small branches intertwine. Under such conditions, fruits that do not receive enough heat and sunlight become smaller, significantly lose their taste.

Stability and abundance of fruiting plum depends on how competently and regularly pruning

In young seedlings, a crown of the desired configuration is formed using pruning. There are several suitable options for plums. The final choice depends on the personal preferences of the gardener and the particular variety. As a rule, the formation of the crown takes 4–5 years, then it will just be necessary to maintain the achieved result.

In an adult plum, it is enough to thin out the crown, removing the most poorly located shoots, cut small drying branches inside it. You will also have to deal with basal shoots (in most varieties it is formed very willingly and actively) and small branches that form on the lower part of the trunk, until the first fork.

In addition to forming, there is also sanitary pruning. It is carried out twice a year, in early spring and autumn, already after leaf fall. In the first case, all branches of the plum that broke under the weight of snow and ice are removed, they simply did not survive the frost. In the second - dried, dead, broken off, affected by diseases and pests. In the case of sanitary pruning, regularity is very important.   Plum absolutely does not need such a "ballast".

Prolonged lack of pruning does not have the best effect on the appearance and yield of plums

This culture does not differ in durability. But competent anti-aging pruning can extend the fruiting period of the old plum by 5–7 years.   It should be remembered that the older the tree, the more stress this procedure is for him. It is very important not to overdo it.

Some gardeners oppose the pruning of fruit trees, citing the fact that nothing like this happens in nature. Practice shows that a plum that has not undergone pruning after transplanting begins to bear fruit faster, sometimes already the next season. But this happens to the detriment of the formation of a strong "skeleton". In the future, these trees are rapidly depleted, the annual growth rate is falling, many intertwining small branches are formed, thickening the crown. Under these conditions, yield is predictably reduced, all kinds of diseases and pests attack the plum. Fruiting on plums grown without pruning is strongly irregular. Successful seasons in this regard alternate with a complete lack of harvest.

Plum, regularly pruned, not only abundantly bears fruit, but also adorns the garden, especially during flowering

Like any agricultural activity, pruning must be done correctly. Otherwise, this procedure will not bring the plum much benefit, but significant damage until the death of the tree. The most common mistakes a beginner gardener:

  • Irregular pruning. Carrying out the procedure from time to time, at any convenient time.
  • “Hemp” left after removal of branches. At this place, a hollow is often formed or "tops" are formed. Also increases the risk of contracting diseases, insect attacks.
  • Annual shortening of the center conductor in an attempt to limit tree growth. This will not give the desired result, it will only contribute to the formation of many “gyroscopes”.
  • Excessive zeal. Any pruning is stress for the tree. If you turn the plum into a hedgehog annually, it will soon die.
  • Raw slices. For cutting use exclusively sharp and disinfected tools. All “wounds” are immediately washed with a thick crimson solution of potassium permanganate or 2% copper sulfate. Small damage is covered with garden varnish immediately. If the branch diameter exceeded 3 cm, it should be allowed to dry for 4–7 days.

For pruning any fruit tree, only sharpened and sanitized tools are used.

Video: general principles and rules for pruning fruit trees

The optimal timing of the procedure

Plum pruning is carried out at least twice a year - in spring and autumn. A small correction, if necessary, is also carried out in the summer.

Plum leaves winter hibernation earlier than other fruit trees. Therefore, it is important not to be late with pruning. But it is impossible to start work at a negative temperature. It is advisable that it lasts at around 10 ° C or slightly higher for about a week.   The day is chosen clear, calm.

Spring prune prune must be carried out at a positive air temperature

They spend it somewhere 20-30 days before leaf buds bloom. In regions with a temperate and harsher climate, the bulk of cropping work falls at the end of March and the beginning of April. At this time, the old shoots, which will no longer bear fruit, and the unsuccessfully located young branches, directed down and deep into the crown, are clearly visible.

The blossoming plum leaves mean that the gardener is already late with spring pruning

The earliest pruned pruned plums. The older the tree, the earlier it wakes up.

If you do not have time with pruning, it is better to transfer it to the fall. After the active sap flow has already begun, any more or less noticeable damage to the wood causes profuse gum dropping. This negatively affects the frost resistance of the plum and its immunity.

The gum-detective plum tree is not likely to kill, but it will greatly weaken

It is advisable to carry out spring pruning of the plum in two stages. Start with thinning the crown, then shorten the shoots that formed last year.   This stimulates their more active branching. Fruiting in most varieties of plum bouquet. Berries are tied mainly on the branches of last season.

Video: how to prune plums in spring

During the summer, crown formation and tree rejuvenation are excluded. Plum during the period of active vegetation simply will not tolerate this. You can only slightly “help” her by redirecting nutrients from the useless overgrowth to the fruits. To do this, in June-July, all the shoots are removed at the base and in the lower part of the trunk, as well as the tops. These are straight, thick shoots directed almost vertically upwards on which fruits are never tied. All branches and berries are immediately removed if symptoms of infection by pathogenic fungi, viruses, bacteria appear on them when they are damaged by insects. The scavenger is removed from the trunk circle.

During the summer, pruning plums pay minimal attention

In plums under the age of five years, it is also recommended to shorten all available lateral shoots by 15–20 cm during the summer without touching the central conductor. This stimulates more active branching.

Summer pruning has its advantages. For example, looking at the leafy crown, it is much easier to objectively assess the degree of its thickening. You can plan the amount of upcoming work and see if thinning is needed at all this season. In the absence of foliage, frozen branches are immediately noticeable, which in the spring are not always visible.

Affected by diseases and pests, shoots and plum fruits are removed from the tree immediately, regardless of the season

Since the second decade of July, intervention has been reduced to an absolutely necessary minimum. Otherwise, it will negatively affect the quantity and quality of the fruit.

The worst to endure summer pruning old plums.   The only justification for such an intervention is the development of the disease.

Video: summer prune pruning

Formative and anti-aging pruning of plums can be delayed until the fall only if the climate in the region allows it. This is mainly practiced in the Black Sea region, in the south of the Volga region, in the Crimea, in the Kuban and so on. The tree will need at least two months to move away from the stress. Therefore, you need to be sure that winter will come more or less in accordance with the calendar. To ensure safety, pruning is carried out in the first half of September, some gardeners can hold out with this until the beginning of October. The tree by this time should lose most or all of the foliage. From the moment of harvesting, at least three weeks pass.

It is possible to transfer the bulk of the work for pruning pruning in the fall only in the warm southern regions

In central Russia and regions with more severe climates in the autumn they are limited to sanitary pruning. All vegetable debris formed during the procedure should be burned as soon as possible. It is by no means left under a tree - pathogens, eggs and pest larvae successfully winter there. It is also useful to shorten (no more than a quarter) overly long branches. Otherwise, they will almost certainly suffer from frost and strong gusts of wind.

Winter prune pruning is a controversial procedure. However, recently it has become more and more popular among gardeners living in the southern regions. Its essence is that all the work that was supposed to be carried out in the spring is carried over to mid-February. But the air temperature should not be lower than 5–7 ° С. The main argument in favor of winter pruning - since there are no leaf and flower buds, the tree experiences minimal stress. Also, frozen branches are easier to cut, wood less "shaggy". Spring in a subtropical climate often comes very quickly and unexpectedly. It is easy not to notice the moment when the buds swell, thereby missing a favorable time for pruning the plum.

Recently, more and more gardeners have been practicing winter pruning.

Video: pruning fruit trees in winter

Trimming schemes suitable for draining

A plum with a crown, which is given a certain shape, looks much more neat and presentable than a groomed tree. It is much easier to look after and harvest. As a rule, the whole process takes 4–5 years, then you can limit yourself to maintaining the achieved result. There are several suitable options for draining the crown configuration. The gardener, as a rule, makes a choice, guided by his own aesthetic criteria.

Sparse-tier crown

The most common option. In this form, the plum is as close as possible to its natural appearance.   After completion of the formation process, the tree has a pronounced central conductor and 3-4 tiers of skeletal shoots, on which there are branches of the second and third order. This scheme allows you to limit the growth of the tree at the desired height.

All branches that by autumn are shorter than 30 cm in an adult plum do not cut, do not bend or shorten, unless specified otherwise. They grow quite slowly, most of the fruits are formed on them.

Sparse-tier crown - a universal and easiest option for any fruit tree

The formation of a sparse-tier crown begins the next year after planting an annual plum seedling in a permanent place. In spring, about 50 cm are measured from the surface of the soil.   This is the optimal height of the stem, below the trunk of an adult tree there should be no overgrowth. If you make it smaller, then it will be problematic to loosen the soil, fertilize, mulch, weed, and so on. Higher stamb, as practice shows, much more often freezes and receives sunburn during the winter.

An additional 30 cm is measured over the stem area. The first tier of branches will be located on this site. Above the trunk, cut 5-7 cm above the last well-developed kidney. The cut is done at an angle of about 30 °. You can not leave a short "stump" almost above it, otherwise the shoot formed from this kidney can deviate greatly from the vertical.

During the summer, shoots appearing in the zone of the stem pinch after 3-4 leaves. This contributes to the thickening of the trunk. The branches forming above do not touch until the next spring.

A two-year-old seedling, as a rule, already has 4–6 lateral shoots. Immediately after disembarkation, the central conductor is shortened by about 10–15 cm in such drains and the formation of the first tier begins.

For the second season of staying in a constant place, all the shoots below the branching point are removed. From the branches located in the zone of the first tier, three of the most powerful and developed are chosen. They should not be crowded, the optimal distance between them is 10-15 cm. It is desirable that they are directed in different directions and are located in relation to the trunk at an angle of at least 60 °. They are cut to about the same length, focusing on the shortest. Some gardeners instead bend the longest branch and tie it up, giving it an almost horizontal position - this can significantly slow down its growth. And the shortest one, on the contrary, is tied to the trunk to form a sharper angle.

The gardener will take 3-4 years to form a sparse-tier crown

Branches formed closer to the top of the central conductor are removed completely. These are the so-called competitors. They grow as actively as the trunk, but are much less reliable. Forming an acute angle with him, they almost inevitably break.

Unnecessary branches are cut off at the very base, where a small annular influx is noticeable. Hence the term “cut into a ring”. Cells in this area have the highest ability to actively divide, damage heals much faster.

The next season, backing 50-60 cm from the first tier, lay the second. It should consist of two branches with the same interval between them. The length will also need to be equalized. After another year, 40 cm above these shoots leave the next one main branch. On this, the formation of the plum skeleton is considered complete, although some gardeners consider it necessary to have one more tier. In this case, in the first two, three skeletal shoots are left, in the third - two, in the last - one.

The sparse-tiered configuration is maintained by regularly thinning the plum tree crown

Over the next 2-3 years, the height of the tree should reach 2.5–3 m.   This is the best indicator for caring for him and harvesting, so the central shoot is shortened.

The growth of the conductor after the end of the formation of the sparse-tier configuration will constantly have to be constantly limited. If a pyramidal crown is characteristic of this plum variety, it is cut 15–20 cm above the last tier. When it is spreading, with nickel shoots, 10-15 cm is enough.

When laying new tiers, they do not forget about the previous ones. On each shoot for the next season, 4–5 of the most successfully located branches of the first order are left. Immediately excluded are those that are directed down and deep into the crown, are very close to the trunk. Of the remaining ones, the most powerful, not deformed, are chosen. Unnecessary cut to the point of growth. Then every year they do the same, leaving the first branch of the second order on the shoots and so on. The selection criteria are the same. After the shoots of the third order are formed, you can stop.

Video: how to form a sparse-tier crown

Cup crown

A plum tree with a cup-shaped crown looks more like a large bush. The main feature of this configuration is the absence of a pronounced central conductor. It is well suited for this culture, because the tree is not durable. This option is especially popular in the subtropical climate and in European countries. The main advantages of this configuration are the short stature of the tree and the unfinished crown, which leads to good lighting and aeration.

The creation of the crown-bowl begins with a selection of 3-5 branches. It is necessary that they should not be concentrated on one side of the trunk, but should be arranged more or less evenly around the circumference. They are shortened to a length of 45–50 cm, bent so that an angle of 70–75 ° is formed, and fixed in this position. All undergrowth below is removed completely.

A tree with a fully formed crown crown looks more like a large bush

The next year, a central conductor is cut 5-7 cm above the last branch. This is necessary to make the skeleton more powerful. The optimal height of the stem is 45-60 cm.   If the plum is grown in the southern region and / or planted on a fairly steep slope, it is increased to 60–70 cm.

At the same time, the selected skeletal shoots are shortened, leaving only the lower 3-4 buds to stimulate further branching. The branches formed on them are cleaned completely if they are directed to the center of the crown and down.

Further formation of the cup-shaped crown is very similar to a sparse-tier. On each of the selected skeletal shoots, first, second and third order branches are gradually formed so that the resulting structure slightly resembles a fork. In total, each of them should be 6–8 of such fork-shaped branches closer to the periphery of the crown. The central conductor is shortened annually.

The cup-shaped crown to the sink is very suitable, the only drawback of this configuration is that the branches often break under strong gusts of wind

There is also an improved cup-shaped crown. Its only difference is that the skeletal branches (3-5 pieces) are not located at the same level, but approximately with an interval of 10-20 cm in a checkerboard pattern. The skeleton is more powerful, the crop is distributed more evenly. The risk that the drain will break under the gusts of a strong wind is significantly reduced.

Video: Cup-shaped fruit tree crown

Palmetta

A plum tree with a palmette crown looks very unusual and decorative. This word can be translated from French as “ornament” or “pattern”. The main distinguishing feature of this configuration is that all skeletal branches are located in one plane. Such a plum resembles a drawing on a wall or a bas-relief rather than a living and fruiting tree.

Krona-palmetta is widely used in landscape design. Such trees allow you to divert attention from unsightly fences or buildings. You can significantly save space on the garden plot - the required interval between two plums is about 1 m. At the same time, the tree’s yield does not suffer, because its crown is well lit and warmed up by the sun.

“Flat” trees with palmette crown are widely used by landscape designers

There are several dozen options for this configuration. They differ in the presence or absence of lateral shoots, their location relative to the trunk on one or both sides, the intervals between them, the angles between the branch and the trunk, the number of tiers and so on.

The simplest is the so-called free palmette (it is also simplified, irregular and irregular). Even a beginner gardener can form such a drain. The variety is selected not differing in growth rate.   The whole process takes 5-7 years. A trellis is required.

A free palmette leaves the gardener a certain space for creativity

An annual seedling is best for palmette formation. Immediately after disembarkation, it is shortened to 40–45 cm.   Branching should begin during the summer.

Next spring, three of the emerging side shoots are selected. They should be located in the same plane with an interval of about 10 cm. This is the central conductor and the first tier. The conductor is fixed in a strictly vertical position, the two remaining branches are bent from the trunk at an angle of about 50 °. During the summer, all shoots that appear on the stem below the first tier are removed. The remaining shoots are fixed in a horizontal position to slow their growth.

The second tier is laid at a height of about 1 m.   This happens the next year or a year later when suitable shoots appear. The skeletal branches during the formation of palmettes never cut. The strength of their growth is regulated by bending the shoots horizontally for a while or, conversely, decreasing the angle of location relative to the trunk.

When finished, the plum formed in the form of a free palmette reaches a maximum height of 3 m. The length of the branches of the first tier is 2–2.5 m, the second is 1.5–2 m, the third is 1–1.2 m. Once they reach the required values, they are directed upward at an angle of 55-60 ° C and fixed in this position.

The growth rate of plum shoots during the formation of crown-palmettes is regulated by bending them at different angles

The finished configuration is maintained by regularly thinning the crown and rejuvenating the fruiting shoots. Those branches that are distinguished by a higher growth rate, you need to give a horizontal position from time to time. When the growth during the year decreases to 10-15 cm, this is a signal that it is time to begin to replace skeletal branches. The procedure stretches for several years. The lowest tier is removed first.

Video: palmette crown formation

Pruning plum

Column-shaped discharge is characterized by an almost complete absence of lateral shoots. Their length does not exceed 15–20 cm. Therefore, trimming in this case is minimized. Basically, the gardener will need to remove branches affected by frost, pests, gusts of wind and so on.

The crown of the columnar plum consists of very short shoots, therefore it does not need special formation

In no case should you touch the central conductor of such trees, there is a growth point.   Otherwise, the plum will begin to branch and gradually turn into an ordinary tree, though with a lower yield.

Thanks to the characteristic configuration of the crown, the column-shaped drain looks very impressive and takes up very little space in the garden

The only exception is if the apical kidney is seriously affected by frost. As a rule, in a columnar discharge in this case, 2-3 additional shoots are formed near the top. You can immediately select one of them, the most powerful, and delete the rest. There is another option - wait another season to see which branch will develop more actively. This will become clear next spring when they reach a length of 20–25 cm. Unnecessary shoots are cut off (this is quite suitable material for inoculation), the remaining replaces the central conductor.

Anti-Aging Plum Pruning

As a rule, the period of productive life in a plum tree is a maximum of 20–25 years. They begin to engage in rejuvenation when they reach 10-15 years of age. The fact that the time has come is evidenced by a sharp decrease in productivity, a very small annual growth and the formation of fruits only closer to the top of the crown.

The period of the productive life of the old plum can be extended with the help of competent pruning

The procedure is carried out only in the spring, regularly, for 3-4 years.   Healing of “wounds” exceeding 5 cm in diameter is very difficult for any plum. If you cut off all skeletal shoots at a time, the tree will surely die. Success can be expected only if there is a strong and perfectly healthy stem.

Every year, 1-2 skeletal branches are cut down, starting from the lowest, leaving “hemp” no more than 15 cm. It is advisable to cut these shoots at the same time on both sides so that they do not break under their own weight. The experience of gardeners indicates that after the branches are cut, the plum is restored much faster than if they were broken. This is especially true when working with old trees.

The saws left in place of skeletal branches are allowed to dry in the open air for some time.

During the active vegetation season, abundant shoots appear on the “stumps”. In order not to overload the tree, leave 3-4 the strongest branches. The rest are cut off in late July or early August.

The plum rejuvenation procedure is stretched for several years, the tree will not suffer the loss of all skeletal branches at once

During the entire period of time, while there is a rejuvenating pruning, the drain needs especially careful care. This is especially true for watering and fertilizing. Potassium and phosphorus help the tree heal damage faster.

Video: how to rejuvenate an old fruit tree with pruning

Prune seedlings pruning

Whether it is necessary to prune a plum seedling immediately after planting or wait another year, depends on its age. An annual plant looks like a smooth stick, so it does not need pruning. He is tied to a support for reliability and left until the next spring. Although some gardeners practice shortening it by 7-12 cm to stimulate further branching.

The formation of crowns at an annual plum seedling is started the next season after planting in open ground

Saplings at the age of two years already have several lateral shoots, so you can immediately begin to form a crown. You should not hesitate with this. If you leave the tree for 2-3 years to adapt to new living conditions, in the future, their growth rate will noticeably decrease, and the wood will be more fragile.

Plum seedlings at the age of two years must have several lateral shoots

A distinctive feature of young plums is the tendency to heterogeneous growth of individual shoots. For some reason, some branches under the same conditions are much longer than the others. Usually one seedling per year is enough for seedlings, but an unscheduled procedure in the summer may be required. In this case, in July, such branches are shortened by 15–20 cm.

The formation of the crown of plums begins immediately after the planting of a two-year-old seedling in the ground

In young plums, in the first 2-3 years after planting, the central conductor must be shortened every spring. Tops and weak, deformed shoots are removed to the growth point.

The main goal of any gardener is to obtain a plentiful harvest. But this is impossible without competent agricultural technology. Any fruit trees, including plums, need regular pruning. A properly formed crown allows the fruits to get enough heat and sunlight. It is well blown by the wind, which greatly reduces the risk of contracting disease. But before you start pruning, you need to familiarize yourself with all the recommendations regarding this procedure, otherwise you can cause significant damage to the tree by inept actions.

Plum pruning has several objectives and should be carried out without fail. It is carried out in the spring, summer or autumn and is always aimed at improving the fruiting of the tree. Novice gardeners often underestimate the need for this procedure, which is why they can not boast of a large harvest.

Sometimes it seems that the drain is so compact, and therefore there is no need to engage in its formation. However, the peculiarity of the tree to densely twist the branches, creating intense shading in the crown, causes the fruits to not ripen and spoil on the vine. Also, the excessive density of the crown becomes the cause of active reproduction of the codling moth in it, since in such a thicket of branches it is not very easy for birds to hunt insects.

Why cut the plum

Pruning pruning is necessary to prevent overcrowding of the crown, which in especially severe cases even leads to the death of the tree. Also, due to the strong shadow, fruitful branches that can increase the yield with age cannot form.

In addition to the benefits for the tree, pruning and shaping its plum crown is also convenient for the gardener, since it is easier to collect fruits and there is no risk of serious injury from spikes in the plexus branches. You need to trim the plum to preserve the accuracy of the garden. Without a haircut, the trees will look groomed.

Crown shaping

How to cut a plum to form a crown should be known to every gardener. Work begins on creating a good tree from the first year of its planting on the site. The first thing they do is completely remove all shoots that are directed inside the crown. A small trimming of the others is also carried out in order to stimulate their branching and increase the volume of the crown. The trunk is also shortened, leaving a height of 60 cm.

In the second year of the tree's life, weakened defective branches are cut, which only take away the strength of the plant.

If in winter some branches have broken, leaving them, hoping that they can bear fruit, is not worth it.

Also remove the upper kidney formed on the trunk under last year's cut. Shoots are shortened by a third. The lower branches are cut even more, leaving only 7 cm from their length. Pruning a young plum is necessary, even if it seems that for a tree this is a serious test.

For 3 years in the spring before the start of active sap flow, the branches of the lower tier are completely cut from the tree (those that are cut to 7 cm). Leave on the tree only 8 skeletal branches. For this you should choose only the fully developed strongest branches. The distance between them should be 10-15 cm. Leaving branches that are located in relation to the trunk at an angle of 90 degrees is not possible. They must be cut without fail, regardless of the strength of development.

After trimming, 4 buds are left on the branches. To form a crown of plum should be a bush or tiers. A properly formed crown should have 10 main branches arranged in tiers around the trunk.

plum pruning pattern for crown formation

In order to get a good crown, you need to know how to trim the plum in the fall. It is at this time of the year that metabolic processes begin to slow down in trees and the movement of sap gradually weakens. This period is the best time for forming pruning of trees older than 3 years.

Spring pruning

Prune pruning is carried out in the spring before the sap flow begins. Spring tree formation has certain advantages and is liked by many gardeners. The advantages of pruning during this period are considered to be the minimal risk of infection of the slices, the quick healing of damage by the tree, and the formation of a plentiful growth in the pruning places over the summer. New branches will have time to get stronger by the next spring and will bloom. To cut the plum in the spring for beginners, gardeners need to learn as soon as possible, as this is the key to a high yield.

First of all, it is necessary to remove all dry and severely damaged branches from frost. Next, the crown is cleaned from incorrectly located shoots and those that strongly thickened the crown. If large branches are cut off, then the damage is covered with garden varnish or paint.

It is important to choose the correct cropping time. The air temperature several days before it should be kept in the region of +10 degrees. The day chosen for work should be dry and calm. It is undesirable to trim if the next day after it is expected to rain.

Summer pruning

Plum pruning in summer is carried out in young plants for crown formation and tree sanitation. The convenience of work at this time of year is that when the foliage is open, the dried branches and how much the crown is shaded are clearly visible. Thickness is easier to identify in the summer.

In the summer, such situations may arise when it is necessary to cut the plum. If individual branches are significantly affected by pests or disease, they must be urgently removed to avoid infection of the entire tree.

Summer pruning of plums is carried out in June or July, when there is no strong heat and rain. Cut shoots must be secateurs, if they are thin, and garden saw with a significant thickness. The cut place is treated with garden var.

Autumn pruning

Pruning plums in the fall is the most common. It is believed that it helps the plant better prepare for winter and easier to survive the difficult time of the year, since the nutrients accumulated over the summer will not be spent on extra branches. The procedure is carried out, depending on the climate zone, in early or mid-September. In the southern regions, you can postpone a haircut to the beginning of October.

Understanding how to prune the plum in the fall, you can qualitatively prepare the plant for the cold. Heavy snow falling on an overly thickened crown leads to branches breaking.

It is important to fully thin out the crown so that snow does not accumulate in it.

When the branches are not intertwined, the wind will blow the snow from them, and during the thaw, becoming wet and very heavy will not damage them. Sometimes, under the weight of snow, the trunk splits into 2 halves. All branches that stand out in length, going beyond the crown, are pruned. Leaving them, the gardener only reduces the likelihood that the tree will pass through the winter without damage.

Branches that have begun to dry out are also subject to removal, as they will most likely not survive the winter, but will make the tree use up nutrients on them.

When a young plum is cut in autumn, its height should be reduced by a third. This will allow in the future to prevent excess growth of the tree up, which will complicate the harvest.

When pruning old trees in winter, there is no question of forming a crown - it is too late to carry it out. At this time, only dry and diseased branches and those that are located to the trunk at an angle of 90 degrees are removed, due to the fact that they can easily collapse under the weight of snow.

Features haircuts the old garden

When the plum reaches the age of 15 years, pruning it should be done only anti-aging. This will allow you to get a high yield even from an old tree. Young shoots should not be touched, as it rejuvenates the plant. Only dried, dried and diseased branches should be removed from the crown.

If a branch cracked a lot after winter, but fully opened the leaves, it is not necessary to cut it and you can simply cover up the damage with a garden var. Old plums cannot be cut without this protective agent, since they, with open wounds left, easily die from the penetration of putrefactive infection.

Pruning of old trees in early spring. To completely rejuvenate the crown, the old branches can be cut off for several years, one at a time, leaving a young shoot.

It is necessary to prune the plums, as it is a guarantee of high yields and the prevention of diseases of fruit trees. With proper care, plums begin to bear fruit earlier, since unnecessary branches do not consume power. Proper pruning helps protect trees from damage in winter, even after heavy snowfalls and frequent thaws.

Prune plum video:

Plum trees are very popular in our area and they grow in almost every garden. A rare hostess will deny herself the joy of treating loved ones with a jar of jam or jelly from plums in the winter, a fragrant plum cake or just a mountain of ripe, juicy plums as a dessert in the summer. But before you enjoy eating fruits, you need to properly grow a plum tree: plant, feed and make forming pruning on time. About how pruning of plums is carried out and will be discussed in today's article.

From the article you will learn:

The basics of tree formation and the necessary tool

The process of pruning the plum begins almost from the first year of the tree's life. Gardeners need to keep an eye on

the correct formation of skeletal branches and crowns, in time to remove diseased, damaged by insects and frozen shoots in winter. Sometimes you have to cut or cut almost half of the tree so that it does not die completely. For example, such drastic measures are needed in case of damage by the bark beetle.

To prune plum trees, tools such as a garden saw, secateurs, and a sharp garden knife are used. All places of cuts and cuts must be covered with garden var or other special substances. Trimming tools must be sharp and sterile.

When pruning plums

Plum trees can be pruned in spring (March — April), summer (June — July), and autumn (September — October). It all depends on the type of pruning that you will carry out, the climatic conditions of your region and the age of the tree. In each season, when cutting plums, different tasks are performed.

Optimal pruning of plum trees in the spring. It is necessary to do it as soon as possible, until the sap flow begins (approximately the end of March - the beginning of April). In some regions, prune pruning is generally carried out in February, but here you need to measure weather. If severe frosts still crack in your area in March, it is better to shift the pruning to a later time.

It is advisable to choose a moment when there will be no strong temperature drops (frosts have a bad effect on fresh tree wounds). Try to carry out spring pruning of plums at a temperature not lower than -10 degrees, preferably above zero. Also, do not rush to prune the tree after excessively cold winters, since you run the risk of pruning good branches, and leave the frozen ones. Such branches are best trimmed in the summer.

Spring Pruning is carried out in two stages:

  1. Thinning - consists in removing excess branches and cutting off the shoots growing up. If the crown of the tree is very thick, then thinning is done.
  2. Shortening - consists in cutting off growth on the branches of last year. It is being done so that next year new fruit branches appear.

Pruning during this period is carried out mainly when the tree is young and it is necessary to form its crown. It is best to spend summer prune pruning in June - maximum in the first half of July. It is during this period that it is more likely that the places of cuts will have time to overgrow before the onset of autumn cold weather.

The very first summer pruning of plums is carried out in the year when a seedling is planted. It is done to shorten

new branches. Shortening the side shoots is done by 18-20 cm, the previous ones are reduced by 15 cm. At the same time, the stem branch is not reduced.

In the second year, summer pruning is carried out at the same time, and all activities carried out in the first year are repeated. But at the same time, they remove all unnecessary shoots.

Plum pruning is very good in the summer affecting trees that were frozen in the winter, and if in the spring it was not possible to see the frozen branches or some of them were not completely cut, in the summer they should be cut. Also, pruning during this period is good because in summer all the trees are overgrown with leaves and you can see whether the crown of the tree is too thick or not, and decide whether to take any significant actions.

Features of prune pruning in the fall

In the fall, plum trees are also pruned very often. Such pruning is done in late September - early October, after falling leaves. However, in this case, one must keep in mind an important circumstance: pruning the plum for the winter (immediately before the onset of frost) is not recommended at all.

It may happen that the cuts on the tree do not have time to properly tighten. As a result, the plum will go weakened in the winter, will not tolerate frosts well and may die at all. Therefore, you can not tighten the plum with autumn pruning.

What to do when autumn pruning prune

The first action to care for the plum during this period is the removal of dry and damaged branches, as well as those branches that were broken due to an abundant harvest. In addition, in the autumn you can remove the top of the tree, if it suddenly grew too long.

Even in this period, you can remove the fast-growing shoots, which in the future will thicken the crown, as well as shoots of competitors. In the fall they are cut off by about a third of the entire length.

Basically, the whole autumn pruning procedure looks like this:

  • If this is the first pruning, that is, after the plum has been planted, then the main trunk is cut by a third, and then all the other shoots by two-thirds. Such a break is made in order not to create competition between them.
  • Autumn pruning for old or neglected trees is carried out to rejuvenate them, all bad branches are removed.
  • The third pruning is called regulatory, it is carried out for all trees. All strongly growing branches are removed in order to defuse the crown.

It must be remembered that autumn pruning is best done in the southern regions, and in the central and northern regions, all these events should be transferred to the spring.

Pruning young plum and old

As I already wrote, the plum tree needs to start pruning at the seedling stage, as young trees tend to grow and develop quickly. That is why at the appointed time, careful care of the tree is required. Timely pruning of the plum when planting is done for the correct formation of the crown. The roots of the tree are hardy and recover quickly.

Pruning the old plum is done in order to maximize the operational period of the tree, while not changing the size, appearance and taste of the fruit. At such a tree, the crown is thinned, rubbing, broken, diseased and dried branches, as well as branches growing inside the crown, are removed. If the tree has a long growth (more than 70 cm), the shoots need to be shortened by a third of the length.

As soon as the tree shows signs of attenuation of growth, a rejuvenating pruning of the plum is performed. Another sign of the need for rejuvenation is a decrease in yield and fruiting in the upper parts of the tree crown.

During the first rejuvenation, branches that have grown over the past 3-4 years are cut. The following pruning of this kind can be done in 4-5 years.

Since in this case, the slices are extensive, you need to pay due attention to their processing. The place of cut is cleaned with a knife and smeared with oil paint on a varnish.

Particularly large branches are first filed from below, and only then shortened from above - this will save the tree from unnecessary damage. The branch is cut at the side branch. Having received a signal about the wound, the plum will direct there a large flow of nutrients, which will cause the awakening of the sleeping kidneys and the gradual wound healing. Of the new shoots formed at the cutting site, only 4 of the strongest leave, the rest are cut in July. Small branches in old plums do not touch, trimming annually only damaged branches or tops directed to the center of the crown.

You should not perform anti-aging pruning in one year - an old plum can not tolerate such a large number of wounds. It is better to distribute all the manipulations for 2-3 years, during which the tree will be additionally fed and added.

Pruning of old plums lasts on average up to 15 years. All this period, it is necessary to maintain moderate growth of the conductor and skeletal branches. This continues until the tree exceeds 2.5 meters in height, then the upper part of the conductor, including the strongest side branch, is removed. This will stop the growth of the tree, and the gardener will only have to make sure that the center of the crown continues to be open to sunlight.

Helpful video to help

Finally, for the best understanding of the material, I propose to see a couple of useful videos. The first describes the features of pruning a young plum, the second details pruning of plums and cherries. Enjoy your viewing and good harvests!

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Everyone who has at least a small plot of land is probably grown among other fruit trees and plums. This tree brings beautiful fruits from which you can cook delicious compotes, jams, preserves and enjoy them right from the tree.

To obtain a stable and high yield, the plum needs care. Pruning plums in the fall and spring is one of the important points in this process.

Prune pruning: rules and schemes

In order for the plum to please its harvest, it is necessary to carry out regular pruning. Most gardeners are convinced that this process is best carried out in the spring, since in the autumn the sections heal longer, in winter it is possible to freeze.

Plum pruning should begin almost immediately after planting a young seedling, as it is characterized by rapid growth and can begin fruiting in a couple of years. This process will help to form the crown correctly.


The first pruning of the plum should be carried out in the spring with the onset of steady warm weather, it is not scary if the tree already releases the first leaves. If there are no night frosts, then the plum sapling will perfectly tolerate this manipulation.

Some gardeners are of the opinion that early pruning of a young plum in the spring immediately after the snow melts makes it easier to bear the injury, since the tree is still at rest. But it should be noted that this technique is appropriate to apply only in areas where there are no severe frosts in early spring.

The main nuances of prune pruning

It doesn’t matter at all when you decide to cut the plum, the most important thing is to take into account some points:

  • When starting to prune a plum, it’s important to imagine the shape of the tree that you want to see.
  • And the second point that you need to pay attention to is the possibility of reducing the risk of developing various diseases, for example, gum therapy or white rot.

To significantly reduce the risk of damage to the tree, pruning pruning should preferably be done either before the leaves bloom or already in early June.

Tip:   It is important that the air temperature is not lower than +5 degrees, otherwise the process of pruning the plum can adversely affect the plant.

To prune the plum, you need to stock up with a saw with small cloves or a sharp knife. All cut branches will need to be burned to prevent the spread of pests or diseases, if any, and fresh cuts must be treated with garden var.

How to prune plums in spring

If a plum seedling has long grown, and you have never done pruning, you will have to make a little more effort to transform your tree for the better. It is best to start this process before the leaves bloom, until the process of sap flow begins. The tree is already an adult and may die.

Cook sharp secateurs and a saw and you can get to work.

  • At the first stage, pruning a young plum tree consists in thinning the crown. It is necessary to remove all excess shoots and those that grow vertically up.
  • In the second stage, pruning an adult plum tree aims to shorten the branches. It is necessary to cut off all the growth of the past year. This process contributes to the emergence of new fruit twigs.

Tip.   Be sure to remove those branches of the plum on which the birds damaged the kidneys.

After trimming, the tree should have 5-7 branches, which are located at an angle of 45 degrees to the trunk. After the plum has been correctly cut, the gardener only has to remove the old branches, the diseased and those that do not bear fruit every year.

Spring prune pruning scheme (for beginners)

Photo: Vase pruning of plum tree

If you planted a plum seedling in the spring, then it's time to start taking care of it. Most often, two-year-old plants are planted, but annuals also take root well and grow quickly. The whole process of pruning pruning can be made up of the following steps:

  • After planting a plum seedling, you can immediately shorten it by cutting off the top with a sharp knife at a distance of 60 centimeters from the ground. The kidney under the cut also needs to be removed.
  • If the root system of the plum is strong, then the seedling grows rapidly and forms young shoots. It is important to trace those branches that grow incorrectly immediately removed.
  • The following year, in spring, plum seedlings are shortened by another 40 centimeters, this also applies to all lateral branches.
  • Trim must be directed towards the outer kidney. The lower shoots, which are only auxiliary, can only be shortened in the first year, and completely removed in the second, the fruits still do not form on them.
  • With the onset of the third spring, pruning of the plum should be carried out in such a way that more side branches are preserved.

    • Tip.   The most important thing is to choose 7-9 plum branches, which are the strongest and strongest and evenly spaced.

  • All skeletal branches of the plum that are located in relation to the trunk at an acute angle must be removed. At least 4-5 buds should remain on the cut branches.
  • All subsequent pruning of the plum tree should be reduced to removing all branches that do not grow correctly, thicken the crown. This can lead to the development of diseases and lower yield.

If pruning is carried out correctly, then in a few years a tree will form that has 8-10 main powerful branches that are evenly spaced around the trunk.

Prune pruning

If pruning of a young plum has not been done in spring and time has been lost, then there is nothing left to do but pruning in the fall. You should start when all the leaves have been discarded and the tree will begin to prepare for its dormant state.

An approximate scheme for pruning plums in the fall (for beginners):

  • The first step is to remove all branches that are damaged by pests, diseases or broken under the weight of the crop.
  • If the top of the plum has grown too much, then it is also advisable to shorten it.
  • Remove all fast-growing shoots that only thicken the crown and prevent the penetration of light to the main branches.
  • Plum shoots should be shortened by a third of the length.
  • If the tree is already old, then it is necessary to remove all the bad branches and those that do not bear fruit.

Tip.   If the plum is cut for the first time, then the main trunk is shortened by a third, and the lateral branches of the plum by two-thirds of the length.

After pruning the plum in the autumn is completed, the branches need to be burned, and all sections should be treated with var to prevent damage to various diseases. Pruning young and adult plums is a very important process, without which it is impossible to form the crown of a tree correctly and get stable and high yields.

Video: how to cut the plum in the fall

Plum tree is widespread in our country, as it is characterized by unpretentious care and composition of the soil. It can be grown both on sandy and medium loamy soil. However, like other fruit, plum prefers nutritious soil mixture and sunny terrain. This culture is quite frost-resistant and does not require shelter for the winter. All you need to get a plentiful quality crop is a timely forming pruning.

  The purpose and timing of the autumn pruning of plum tree

The main task of pruning a fruit tree is to form a crown so that sunlight evenly illuminates all parts of the plant. To achieve this, it is necessary to annually remove shoots that obscure the central stem and other skeletal branches. This will lead not only to abundant fruiting, but also significantly improve the appearance of garden plantings.

The timing of the pruning procedure is determined in accordance with the end of the leaf fall. Usually this is mid-September. It was at this time that the tree begins to prepare for vegetative rest and will easily tolerate all the upcoming manipulations. But do not postpone the event for a long time. It is important that before frost it can manage to heal the wounds that may cause freezing.

If traces of the activity of harmful insects or other microorganisms were found on a tree, all trimmed fragments must be burned. Otherwise, they will spread to the rest of the fruit and ornamental plants planted on the site.

  Schemes and step by step instructions

Autumn care for fruit trees, including plum trees, includes annual pruning.   It is represented by several schemes depending on the age of the plant and the objectives of the procedure:

  1. 1. In the first season after planting a plum, the central branch of the seedling should be shortened by a third, and the rest - by two-thirds. This stimulates the development of lateral branches, the growth of the green part of the plant and the strengthening of the trunk.
  2. 2. In the future, each year in the fall, shaping or regulatory trimming is performed. The shoots growing inside the crown and directed to the ground are cut off. Their absence will not reduce the yield, as they are not capable of full-fledged fruiting due to improper development, but will contribute to the penetration of sunlight to mature branches. It is also worth paying attention to branches that go beyond the boundaries of the form - it will be correct to shorten them to the desired level to maintain the boundaries of the crown. If the young plum is excessively stretched, reaching from 2.5 to 3 or more meters, then its top will be better cut off. This will increase the frost resistance of the tree and facilitate future harvesting.
  3. 3. From the fifth year of life, gardeners begin to perform anti-aging pruning, alternating them with previous ones and repeating every 4–5 years. In the process, old non-bearing branches are cut off. In exchange for them, next year they will begin to grow stronger young shoots that have entered the desired phase of growth.

Every autumn in the garden, in addition to the formation of crowns, sanitary cutting of plums and other fruit trees and bushes is carried out. At this time, all infected and mechanically damaged parts of the branches are cut off. It is also recommended to trim thin, weak shoots, unable to survive frosts, so that the plant does not waste energy and vitality on them.

Plums tolerate pruning very easily. But if beginners do it wrong, then there is a chance that the tree will become sick and yield will decrease. In order to prevent this, it is important to remember that the cut must be done at an angle of 45-50 degrees. Then the damage will not be as significant as with a parallel pruning, and the plant will be able to quickly recover.

If the anti-aging pruning of a plum tree makes it necessary to cut several thick branches, then it will be more optimal to carry out the process gradually, cutting one branch in the autumn and the following spring. Otherwise, with a large area of \u200b\u200bdamage to the wood and exposure of the trunk, the culture may not tolerate winter cold.

Prune pruning is not easy, but very important. If done wrong, the crop will be scarce. A dense crown will badly affect the state of culture. And the tree itself will become more sensitive to cold weather and in winter runs the risk of freezing. Therefore, it is important to approach this procedure wisely and seriously.